textiles of india swatch watch - amazon web services · fabindia kalamkari painting `2,000 from an...

124 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – MARCH-APRIL 2013

SHOPPING

India’s textile traditions are a rich weave of mythology, socio-political movements and economic change. Fabiola Monteiro traces their

evolution in modern-day livingPhotographs by Amit Chakravarty & Mohnish Dabhoya;

Swatch watchTEXTILES OF INDIA

Appliqué Cat Sling

`750

Here’s one for feline lovers. A centuries-old cat motif has been appliquéd onto silk-cotton bags, and further embroidered with Czech beads and mirrors. Artesania

Appliqué (Patchwork)Borrowing its name from the French, appliqué work on textiles dates back to 13th-century India. A form of patchwork, the process involves the stitching of pieces of cloth onto a larger fabric to form various designs. Orissa, Andhra Pradesh, Punjab, Gujarat and Rajasthan all have their own variations of the technique. In Puri, Orissa, for instance, the craft was patronised by royalty, and is closely entwined with the rituals of Lord Jagannath whose chariots were canvassed in appliqué work. Gujarat and Rajasthan are the regions famous for it.

Appliqué cushion covers

`1,750 eacH

Available in assorted patterns, are silk cushion covers that use geometric designs to showcase appliqué work. Baaya Design

Patchwork bedspread

`27,132

With mirror work, Zardozi, Aari and Parsi embroidery, among others, the 60 inches by 90 inches bedcover has its origins in Rajasthan and Gujarat. It doubles as a wall hanging too. Central Cottage Industries Emporium

Rajasthani baskets

`2,000 ONwardS

Originally used as food storage units in Rajasthan, these baskets pay homage to that tradition with a patchwork rendering of village embroidery. They now cater to many more purposes. Freedom Tree

TIME OUT EXPLORER – MARCH-APRIL 2013 – 125

IkatThis dyeing technique is one that’s particularly interesting. Unlike tie-dye fabrics in which bindings that resist dyes are used to create designs, ikat patterns are dyed onto the threads before being woven together. It is key that the tying is precise in order to render a clear design. Its exact place of origin has been debated; however in India alone, Orissa, Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh have put their own spin on this technique, specifically with regards to patterns.

Golconda Pochampally chair

`19,500

Pochampally ikat, the Andhra Pradesh offshoot of the dyeing technique, employs geometric patterns in its designs, as in the case of this outsized, lime-green chair. Definitely an elephant you’d pay to have in the room.Good Earth

Lamp shade

`1,150

Illuminate your reading nook, liven up the empty corner in your living room, or use it as the founding stone for your new decor. Contemporary Arts and Crafts

Ikat sareeON requeSt

Engineering traditional floral and leafy motifs to create something more contemporary, the ikat saree bridges the gap between traditional livelihood and modern lifestyle. Rahul Mishra


Bandhani dress with Barmer embroidery

`4,500

This dress is versatile enough to wear round the clock, be it a brunch with your girlfriends or a dinner date. Plus, the design makes for a great conversation starter.O Layla


shopping: TexTiles of india

High-low dressON requeSt

Like the artistic motif on this dress, we love the innovative bandhani patterns on all the apparel of this line. Rahul Mishra

Cushions

`1,550 aNd `1,585

Besides adding colour to a space, these cushions double as floor seating for when you have extra guests over. Available in two sizes: 18 x 18 inches and 16 x 16 inches.Rajee Sood

KalamkariLiterally translating as ‘drawing with a pen’, kalamkari is a type of handpainted – or these days, block-printed–form of cotton textile. In cases of blockprinting, finer details are etched on with a pen. This motif-laden, narrative tradition from Andhra Pradesh, no less than 3,000 years old, has two major styles: masulipatnam with its Islamic aesthetics and srikalahasti which was influenced by the Hindu rulers. Colonial encounters added their own touch to this art form.

Kalamkari kaftan top

`2,950

Add a historical spin to your wardrobe with this kaftan top, created from a kalamkari saree. With raw materials sourced from villages across India, this Ritu Kumar endeavour is bound to leave you fitted with an organic feeling, both physically and otherwise.O Layla

Cotton handbag with kalamkari work

`1,390

This hold-all makes a fashion statement without even trying. Crafted from cotton, its quirky shape works to complement both, your ethnic and western wear. No more worrying about leaving essential paraphernalia in yesterday’s handbag. Fabindia

Kalamkari painting

`2,000

From an interpretation of the tree of life to flute players and dancers, wall art that covers a range of historical and mythological themes. Contemporary Arts and Crafts

KanthaThe tradition of kantha embroidery art, carried on by the women of West Bengal, tends to reflect the region’s religious and social beliefs. Based on a simple running stitch, its simplicity is largely the reason for its popularity. With a variety of products made using this stitch, it is an integral facet of Bengali society.

With scenes from daily life embroidered onto them, each cushion cover has a story to tell. Available in a variety of colours. Baaya Design

Kantha tote

`1,700

Recycled from old cotton saris, these bags (21x 15 x 6 inches) are great for groceries or as casual handbags. Available in a range of colours and designs.Rajee Sood

Kantha embroidered cushion covers

`2,800 eacH

BandhaniA form of tie-dye unique to Rajasthan and Gujarat, bandhani has been around for about 5,000 years. Fabric is tightly tied with special thread that resists the dye, in a strategic fashion so as to produce a pattern. The piece is then dyed and the threads are removed to reveal the design. Rajasthani craftsmen are easy to recognise because of the long nail on their finger, or the small metal ring with a pointed end worn to facilitate easy lifting of the cloth for tying. Shibori, a similar style of tie-dye native to Japan, has been adopted as the term used for this kind of tie-dye internationally.


Woollen blanket

`5,900

Catch up on your movie list, snuggled under this Kashmiri woollen blanket on a winter’s day.Contemporary Arts and Crafts

PashminaThese days, many fabrics pose as northern India’s finest cashmere wool, but the real test for quality pashmina is in its warmth, lightweight and thin fibre diameter. A product of Ladakh, Kashmir and Nepal, the pashimina (changthangi) goats of these regions forgo their winter coat every spring to provide for this wool. Derived from the word pashmineh (from Persian pashm/wool), the textile has been documented in Afghan texts (3rd century BC-11th century AD).The founding of the cashmere wool industry is credited to Zayn-ul-Abidin, the 15th-century Kashmir ruler who introduced weavers from Central Asia.

Made from the first shearing of a kid goat, shahminhas

have been endorsed by the Wildlife Trust of India as the environmentally-friendly

alternative to now illegal shahtoosh – which was woven from the down hair of the endangered Tibetan antelope. Available in a variety of colours, this hand-spun and hand-woven stole will top the list of light winter clothing.Carpet Cellar

KhadiWith raw materials like cotton, silk or wool, khadi is the term for handspun or hand-woven cloth. Gandhi’s Khadi movement in India made the fabric a symbol of patriotism by boycotting foreign goods and embracing India’s cultural heritage. It also created employment opportunities with the charkha.

JacketPrIce ON requeSt

Make a style statement with this edgy twist on khadi. We love how you can throw on this sharply structured jacket over a T-shirt and a pair of jeans, and emerge flawless. Rahul Mishra

Pashm Flutterby jacket

`3,200

Embroidered with delicate butterflies, the jacket will ensure your little one stays warm and looks adorable too. Good Earth

Shahmina stole

`7,500-`9,500

Stole

`990

With jamdani work, this khadi stole from Bengal adds a splash of colour to your outfit. Available in two shades. Fabindia

Scarf

`700

Whether it’s actively showing your support for the Swadeshi movement or exploring organic living, you can’t have enough wardrobe staples like this scarf. Women Weave

Bhagalpur silk dress PrIce ON requeSt

Such use of traditional fabrics for contemporary clothing is key to preserving our cultural heritage. While currently not in production, the brand accepts custom orders. Rahul Mishra

SilkThe use of silk in India can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. Golden, glossy and known to outlive its owner, Assam’s Muga silk is produced by silkworms native exclusively to the state. Tussar silk from West Bengal, on the other hand, is not as durable. In Bihar, where the weaving industry is more than a century old, it is is known as Bhagalpur silk.

Tussar sling bag with Kutch mirror work

`1,890

Predominately seen in tribal communities, this sort of mirror work is essential to Gujarati apparel. Fabindia

Muga silk lamp

`1,450

Made out of a tribal shawl, this cylindrical lamp shade comes in a range of sizes. Brownie points for the recycling. Dhoop

Tussar scarf

`700

Woven by the skilled hands of

craftswomen in central India, the tussar-silk scarf was created using the khadi technique. WomenWeave


Rajasthani toys

`550

Handmade in Rajasthan, these toy elephants (there are tigers too) work well as props for bedtime stories or even souvenirs. Contemporary Arts and Crafts

CottonThis fabric needs no introduction. Cotton has been used as clothing since prehistoric times. Today, it’s a popular option in just about every sphere – from upholstery to fashion and even jewellery. Here’s a fun fact: until the Industrial Revolution came about and streamlined methods to maintain consistency, cotton grew naturally in assorted colours like brown, rust and light purple.

Banana FibreMany mythological references are made to the banana plant because of its wide variety of uses. While banana fibre is now being used in the production of paper, this unconventional source is increasingly being employed in making other everyday products too.

Table runner

`1,250

Anchor your dinner setting with this rustic-chic table runner. Available in several sizes and colours.Good Earth

Table lamp

`1,250-`3,500

Bamboo and banana fibre come together in this hand-woven lamp.Dhoop

Boho travel bag

`1,380

Designed by hand, this contemporary take on traditional block prints holds everything you need (or don’t) at picnics or overnighters. Artesania

Table linen

`2,250

A set of six, the tablemats and napkins are available in a range of

patterns and colours. Keep those dreaded food stains off your dining table. Good Earth



Pashmina: The Kashmir Shawl and Beyond

`3,750

By Janet Rizvi A documentation on Pashmina, the book takes you through the history, weaving techniques, designs and evolution.Publisher: The Marg FoundationFlipkart

READMy Godri Anthology

`175

Written by Merle Almeida, illustrated by Nina SabnaniIllustrating life in 20th-century rural Goa, a collection of tales from the author’s grandmother tells of love, sickness and death. The godri motif has been used with the patchwork Publisher: Bookwormbookwormgoa.in

Threads and Voices: Behind the Indian Textile Tradition

`2,500

By Laila TyabjiProfiling socio-economic causes, Tyabji explores the lives of women who work with dying textile traditions in urban areas.Publisher: The Marg Foundation Flipkart

Wedding potli

`2,500

With brocade work done on art silk, go all out with this potli at the next big fat Indian wedding. Bombay Store

BrocadeBanarasi brocade is well rooted in history. The weaving industry in Banaras flourished during the Vedic period and gained further importance in the Mughal era, thanks to patrons like Emperor Akbar. The prosperity of this ancient city, even post Mughal rule, was primarily due to the zari and brocade trade with Europe. With its bold gold motifs, brocade contributes immensely to modern-day lifestyle.

Clutch bag with bro-cade work

`890

We love this clutch for its lively shade of turquoise that will make any outfit pop. Fabindia

Jewellery case cum clutch

`500

From posing as a clutch to storing trinkets, a versatile bling thing. Artesania

Cushions

`2,200 eacH

Available in different shapes, sizes, patterns and colours, cushions that will lend a regal air to any room. Good Earth

JuteBeing the second most important fibre after cotton, jute is valued for its biodegradable nature and is often at the centre of contemporary green movements. As the world’s largest producer of jute, India’s major production comes from the eastern region. The East India Company’s trade helped improve this industry.

Candle-stand

`750

This candle-stand will stand out on any shelf and makes for a good gifting option. Contemporary Arts and Crafts

Sling bag

`280

A Banarasi border ups the glam quotient of this jute sling bag. Jute Cottage

Folder

`290

Store all those important documents in this durable folder with many compartments to keep everything organised. Available in maroon and earthy brown. Jute Cottage


Artesania www.shopo.in/shop/ARTESANIABaaya Design 11/12, Raghuvanshi Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai (+91-022-6521-0165). www.baayadesign.com. Bombay Store Western India House,Sir P.M.Road,Fort, Mumbai (+91-22-4066-9999). Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm, Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.thebombaystore.com. 100 Feet Road, HAL II Stage, Indira Nagar, Bengaluru (+91-80-2526-6449). Daily 10am-8.30pm.Carpet Cellar 1 AnandLok, August Kranti Marg, New Delhi (+91-11-4164-1777/2626-1777). Daily 10.30am-6.30pm.

Central Cottage Industries Emporium 34, Narang House, 1st floor, near Regal Cinema, Chhattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Road, Fort, Mumbai (+91-22-2202-7537).Contemporary Arts and Crafts Ground Floor, Taj Building, Opposite Fort House,Corner of D.N.Road and Wallace Street, Fort, Mumbai. +91-22-6657-6069. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm.Dhoop Ground Floor, PremSagar Co-op Housing Society, 14 Road, Khar (W), Mumbai. +91-22-2649-8647, 022-3242-1265. FabIndia Jeroo Building, 137, M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda, Colaba, Mumbai (+91-22-2262-6539/40). B-28, Upper

Ground Floor, Inner Circle, Connaught Place, New Delhi (+91-11-4151-3371). www.fabindia.com.Freedom Tree Unit 3-5, Neeru Silk Mills, 126 N.M. Joshi Marg, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Lower Parel (W), Mumbai. +91-22-2491-4433. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.Good Earth Raghuvanshi Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Mumbai– 400013. +91-22-2495-1954. Select Citywalk Mall, 2nd Floor, Saket, New Delhi(+91-11-2956-5601). UB City – The Collection, 24 Vittal Mallya Road. Bangalore (+91-80-4173-8870/71). Opposite The Taj Coromandel, 3, Rutland Gate, 4th Street, Chennai

(+91-44-4308-7878). www.goodearth.in. Jute Cottage 295/1, Cambridge Layout, 1st cross Halasuru, Bangalore(+91-80-2530-8694). F-76, 1st floor, Phoenix Market City Mall, LBS Marg, Mumbai (+91-22-6180-1344).O Layla 32, Meharchand Market, Lodhi Road, New Delhi (+91-11-2460-4832). Daily 10am-7pm.RajeeSood www.rajeesood.comRahul Mishra The Apple Tree, Unit 326, A1 building, Shah & Nahar Industrial Estate, Lower Parel, Mumbai. (+91-22-2493-3448).Women Weave www.womenweave.org

SToRE DIRECToRy

Butterfly Effect dress PrIce ON requeSt

Conceptualised to raise awareness about how distant we’ve become from nature, the Butterfly Effect dress features aari-embroidered winged creatures. Rahul Mishra

AariIn existence since the 12th century, the Mughal courts patronised aari work because they preferred detailed floral motifs which the fine embroidery lent itself to. Hyderabad, Lucknow, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Uttar Pradesh and Delhi, all partake of this cultural treasure, each interpreting it differently.

Bag

`1,950

Support literacy with this bag. from Radhanpur, Gujarat. Created in collaboration with Akshara – Crafting Indian Scripts, a development concept conceived by Jaya Jaitly of the Dastkari Haat Samiti, Indian artisans are being educated through their crafts skills. Aari embroidery is being used as a medium to teach the alphabet in Hindi. Artesania

Mangalagiri stole

`750

As the name suggests, the Mangalagiri stole hails from Andhra Pradesh and has been detailed with aari work.Artesania


textiles of india swatch watch - amazon web services · fabindia kalamkari painting `2,000 from an...

Documents