kalamkari ppt final.ppt,
DESCRIPTION
eturtutukTRANSCRIPT
HAND & BLOCK PRINTED
TEXTILES
KALAMKARI OF ANDHRA PRADESH
KALAMKARI OF ANDHRA
PRADESH…….
INTRODUCTION
Kalamkari:
‘kalam’ means pen and ‘kari’
means work, literally pen work.
Hand painting as well as block
printing.
Done with vegetable dyes.
Can be dated back to 3000 years
Major centers in Andhra Pradesh:
Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti
HISTORY
Kalamkari craft is very old.
Reached its peak point in the Golconda sultanate,
Hyderabad, in the middle age.
Golconda ruler, Qutab Shahi wanted a strong trade
relationship with Persian
Empire.
Southeast Asian and
Indonesian markets
demanded Indian textiles
for ritual and ceremonial
use.
Machilipatnam became
famous – easy
export of goods from
Bandar port.
TWO DISTINCTIVE STYLES OF
PAINTING
SRIKALAHASTI MACHILIPATNAM
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE
TWO STYLES OF PAINTING
PARAMETERS SRIKALAHASTI MACHILIPATNAM
WORK METHOD WITH PEN OR BRUSH HAND BLOCK
PRINTING
COLORS INDIGO BLUE IS NOT
USED
INDIGO BLUE IS USED
AS SECONDARY
COLOR
MOTIFS FROM
MYTHOLOGICAL
TALES, IMAGES OF
GODS & GODESSES
PERSIAN & BRITISH
MOTIFS(BUDS,
FLORAL, LEAVES)
END PRODUCTS WALL HANGINGS &
DECORATIVE ITEMS
GARMENTS,
UPHOLSTERY &
LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS
SRIKALAHASTI STYLE….
Temples are the major inspiration.
The art can be predominantly seen in scrolls and
wall hangings.
It richly displays episodes from the Puranas,
Mahabharata, Ramayana, and other Mythological
stories.
The motifs are
restricted to Gods
such as Krishna,
Brahma, Ganesha,
Durga, Lakshmi,
Rama, Shiva and
Parvathi.
SRIKALAHASTI PAINTINGS
MACHILIPATNAM STYLE….
Machilipatnam or Masulipatnam designs are Iranian
in character with intricate and delicate forms.
The old traditional block prints with Persian motifs
like trees, creepers, flowers and leaf designs are used.
This style of Kalamkari is mainly done on bed
covers, curtains and also garments.
In the 19th century,
reached its peak and
even today it is largely
produced for Indians
and foreigners.
MACHILIPATNAM PAINTINGS
UNIQUENESS OF KALAMKARI
Use of natural dyes.
Intricate and delicate Persian motifs
Traditional blocks of teakwood used.
Perfect harmony and distribution of colors.
Natural dyes extracted from bark, flower and root are
used.
PATTERNS AND MOTIFS USED
Inspired from Persian art
Mainly floral motifs and paisleys
In case of durries, geometric motifs are used
GEOMETRIC FLORAL
Different forms of the lotus flower, the cartwheel, parrots & an interlacing pattern of leaves and flowers.
Animal forms and floral motifs - Middle-Eastern market.
Tree-of-life – bedcovers and dress material painted for the European market.
TREE OF LIFE PEACOCK
BLOCKS USED
Block made of Teak wood:
- Medium weight yet strong.
- Remains stable in erratic weather conditions.
- Can withstand heavy beating due to inherent
strength.
Types of blocks based on end use:
- Outline block – Massa, Reiki
- Filling block – Datta
- Background block –
Gadh, Kappu
WOODEN BLOCK
Types of blocks based on material:
- Wooden block
- Nail block
- Wax block
WAX BLOCK
NAIL BLOCK
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS
REQUIRED FOR KALAMKARI
earthen pots
plastic buckets/drums
copper vessels
nylon brush
color tray
squeezer
printing table
construction: neem or teak
wood
pen
hammer
PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR
KALAMKARI
GREY CLOTH CUTTING
NATURAL BLEACHING
MYROBALAM TREATMENT
PRINTING
WASHING
BOILING
STARCH APPLICATION
PAINTING
WASHING WITH SOAP
ALUM TREATMENT
GREY CLOTH CUTTING
Batches of 100 metres or above are purchased from
textile mills
It is then cut into pieces of length varying from 10 -15
metres.
GREY CLOTH
NATURAL BLEACHING
Pieces are beaten on stones and washed and spread on
floor with grass and water.
All pieces kept overnight.
Beating and spreading
operations repeated next
day morning.
All pieces washed well
and dried by afternoon.
MYROBALAM TREATMENT
Myrobalam seeds are powdered and about 25.30gms
of the powder is soaked in per litre of water overnight.
The juice is extracted in which the bleached cloth is
soaked uniformly for 25-30 mins.
The cloth is squeezed by hand & allowed to dry in sun.
The treatment is given so that the colors adhere to the
cloth.
MYROBALAM SEEDSMYROBALAM SOLUTION
PRINTING
The first step is the printing of the design outlines using
wooden blocks.
Black color is used for the outlines.
After applying black color on the outlines, the alum
paste is used on the cloth for getting red color wherever
required.
OUTLINE WITH BLACK COLOR
FOR OBTAINING BLACK COLOR
Removal of rust iron pieces
-Heating with cow dung
- scrubbing with bricks
Preparation of mixture
(iron + jaggery + water)
Left in closed earthen pots for 21 days
(stirred once in a week)
Solution + gum left for 1-2 days
Stirred, filtered and ready to use
MIXTURE IN POT
JAGGERY
RUST IRON PIECES
FOR OBTAINING RED COLOR
Roots of madder plant(powdered)
Alum + water + alizarin(powdered
madder roots)
Ready to use
Preparation time: 3-4 hrs
ROOTS OF MADDER PLANT
COLOR OBTAINED FROM MADDER
FOR OBTAINING BLUE COLOR
Water + crushed Alta seeds
Added to the dye tank
Water boiled in a separate
container, cooled overnight &
added to the dye tank
Paste + water + indigo dye cakes
added to the tank
Contents stirred & kept for a day
Lime is added & stirred
INDIGO DYE CAKES
LEAVES OF INDIGO PLANT
FOR OBTAINING YELLOW COLOR
Boiling of myrobalam flowers
in water to soften them
Cooling of solution
Filtering of solution
Addition of alum
Stirring the solution
MYROBALAM FLOWERS
WASHING
The printed cloth is washed in flowing water or in a
pond with fresh water.
Cloth is then squeezed and dried.
All mordants should be removed.
BOILING
Depending on the colors/shades required, the
dried cloth is boiled in copper vessels.
Washed well to remove impurities.
Left for drying.
Time: 45 mins for
boiling.
STARCH APPLICATION
Starch Solution( boiled rice water + fresh buffalo milk
To provide stiffness to the printed cloth.
It avoids spreading of second color paint.
COLOR PAINTING
Color is applied using brush (kalam) made up of date
palm sticks.
It is applied randomly between the motif /designs.
Green color is obtained
when painting over
indigo.
ALUM TREATMENT
To fix the yellow color permanently on the cloth.
The fabric is dried after treating with alum.
TREATMENT OF CLOTH WITH ALUM
WASHING WITH SOAP
Last and the final process.
The cloth is soaked in soap water and then washed
carefully.
It is dried in sunlight.
WASHING OF CLOTH DRYING OF CLOTH
PRODUCT RANGE
Dress material
Men’s kurta
Cushion
Handkerchief
Durries
Home furnishing etc.
VARIETY OF PRODUCTS
PRODUCT RANGE
VARIETY OF PRODUCTS
CONCLUSION
Targeted markets are both
export as well as domestic
market.
Local markets include Delhi,
Hyderabad, Chennai, Kolkata
and Mumbai.
Overseas exports include
U.S, U.K, China, Japan, Sri
Lanka, Bangladesh.
No means of advertisement.
THANK YOU