Terms Definitions

pattern guide for cutting one or more garments

block or sloper - tag board pattern/digital pattern of a garment section; follows the natural contours of body or dress form- used to:develop original bodice, skirt, dress, pant, and sleeve designscreate first patterns of new or modified styles

first pattern original or initial pattern; includes seam and hem allowances

working pattern pattern in revision; work in progress

final pattern - paper or digital pattern; includes garment sections; trued seam lines, seam allowances (notches, grainlines, pattern identification)- used for:making physical muslin or virtual proofcutting out trial or sample garment

pattern card (pattern chart)

form containing info about production pattern:style numbersketch of garmentsize rangecolor offeringsyardage needed for fabrics, linings... trimssize, amount, and description of findingslost of all pattern pieces and number to be cut

production pattern

tag board or digital copy of tested and perfected final patterncomplete pattern set (all pieces needed for a complete garment); including seam allowances, perforations, notches, grainlines, and pattern identifications

graded pattern individual patterns of a particular garment or style; proportioned to standardized body measurements; for each size within a size range

drafted pattern - developed through the use of measurements taken from dress form or live model (2D)- used to:cut a test muslincut a sample garment

flat pattern developed through the manual manipulation of drafted blocks or manipulation using CAD

draping manipulating cloth to conform to one or more curves of the body; allows designer to visualize garment on 3D form; usually drape length-vertically on body; bias allows fabric to skim or cling to body

reverse engineering

begins with finished product; garment deconstructed into pieces, which are used to create pattern; used to create knock-offs

punch holes small circles on pattern or holes made in fabric to mark dark points, curved darts, pocket placement, where to end stitching for stitched pleats

seam allowance portion of pattern from seam line to edge of pattern; based on development of first pattern muslin, position and type of seam, fabric type and weave, type and purpose of garment, specifications of manufacturers, and intended price point

sweep circumference measurement of garment's hem edge; hem edge for sleeves as well

hem width depth of hem or amount turned under; wide hem require more fabric (costlier), benefits are garments tend to hang smoothly, hem can be let down

Straight grain runs in warp direction (wovens), runs in wale direction (knits), parallel to selvage, most stable, most garments cut on it

Bias grain true bias at 45 degrees to warp or wale, grain lines; not parallel to warp or wale, most stretch for woven fabric

Cross grain runs in filling direction (woven), runs in course direction (knits), border printed parallel to selvage

Cut on Bias creates body-skimming silhouettes on garments made from soft, lightweight, and loosely woven fabrics, produces softer drapes or silhouettes for garments cut from heavyweight or closely woven fabrics, emphasizes geometric fabric prints, sheen and light refraction, or metallic yarns

Ease amount of fabric in pattern design to accommodate body movement; difference between measurement of finished product and body measurements for intended size

functional ease allows for body movement

(wearing ease)

design ease (garment ease/style ease)

used to achieve desired design and look of garment

Darts means of shaping fabric to fit the figure; allow for extra fabric to be taken up and molded around the curves of body

Seams eliminate fabric excess by manipulating two or more panel to conform to the style line and body contour; place where garment parts are sewn together

Side Panel garment section that provides fit and shape in place of a side seam; side panels used on jackets, coats, tops...

gores panels in skirt or skirt portion of dress created by dividing the skirt into vertical sections; number of panels = number of gores

Gathers introduce fullness to clothing

Casing fold-over edge or applied strip that encloses a drawstring of elastic used to draw in garment circumference to fit corresponding body areas; used on garments intended to accommodate more than one size or as design detail

Drawstring Casing drawstring inserted into casing; allow wearer to control garment circumference; can be made from variety of materials; may emerge from slits, buttonholes, metal eyelets, grommets, or seam openings; can be used to manipulate necklines, sleeves, hems, waistline areas

Elastic Casing inserted into casing; available in variety of widths; facilitates ease of dressing children; allows adjustable-style effects on necklines, lower sleeve edges, and pants legs; provides snug leg openings of swimwear and leotards

Seamed Waistline horizontal seam or seams join upper and lower sections of garment

empire waistline just below the bust

natural waistline at the actual body waistline

long torso around the hip area

raised waistline slightly above natural waistline

lowered waistline slightly below natural waistline

Unseamed Waistline

no delineation of upper and lower sections of garment by a horizontal seam; waistline spans the body above and below the waist areas; enhances hem or cuff

Godet triangular or rounded piece inserted into slashed opening or seam in a garment section or sections; creates fuller circumference; enhances lower portion of skirts, pants....; creates flounce; effect on sheaths or fitted garments; creates fuller silhouette in fitted evening gowns and dresses

Gusset diamond-shaped unit or one or more pieces; inserted into slashed opening on a larger garment section or sections; allows freedom of movement when set into a fitted sleeve or crotch area

Ruffle gathered or pleated single or double-ply strip of fabric drawn up and sewn into a smaller; adjoining seam line; enhances hems, cuffs, plackets, and necklines

Smocking elastic shirring with an overlay pattern of decorative stitches applied to the face of fabric; creates an expandable or contractible decorative-patterned effect; simulates handwork in; mass-produced garments; forms the effect of a yoke, midriff, band, or cuff; accommodates more than one size or body configuration; releases fullness above and below the stitching on the waistline of one-piece garments

Contoured Waistband

band formed to fit the body's curve between midriff and hip; may provide a band finish for special design features (i.e. low-rise pants, lowered/raised waistlines)

Straight Waistband

2" or less in width two more more plies; attached at waistline; can open at center (CF), center back (CB), side seam

Pleats take-up of excess fabric at edge of garment; doubling the fabric ply upon itself; can be single or series; always in the vertical direction

Accordion Pleats series of evenly spaced pleats; creates a raised and recessed pattern; permanently set with industrial pleating machine; panels cut and

hemmed prior to pleating; unhemmed edge is fitted

Box Pleats evenly spaced folds; fabric ply doubled over to face away from each other; depth of box pleat may not equal width of box

Inverted Pleat two fold in fabric ply; doubled under to meet at central point

Knife Pleat pleat doubled upon itself; series of folds; forming underlay of 5/8" or less; permanently press to lie in one direction; not suitable for stretch, bulky or napped fabrics

Side Pleats (see Knife Pleat)

Kick Pleats inverted or side pleat released at knee level or below

Sunburst Pleat series of radiating pleats; creates raised and recessed pattern; on sheer and; lightweight fabric; permanently set by an industrial pleating machine; hemline and hem finish establish after garment complete

Iseey Miyake's Pleats Please

crystal pleats; accordion like; narrow

Pin Tucks evenly spaced parallel folds 1/8" or less (narrow); stitched at designated length from; pattern edge or area to be fitted; tucks can be placed in any direction on garment

Release Tucks evenly spaced parallel folds; 1/4" to 5/8" partially stitched down to fit an area of a garment; then released to produce fullness; may lie on inside or outside of garment; may be turned towards or away from each other in groups

Placket finished opening in a garment section; should be long enough to allow for ease of dressing; planned as extension for the placement of buttonholes, snaps, and other closures

Band Placket or Tab Placket

two finished strips of equal width; produces a lapped closure; overlap strip visible on face of garment

Bound Placket opening that does not overlap; formed by a fabric strip applied, slashed, turned and finished as a bound seam; strip can be of bias, straight-grain self fabric or contrasting fabric

Continuous Lap Placket

finished opening; formed by one strip of bias of straight grain fabric encasing raw edge of slash

Faced-Slashed Placket

clean-finished opening; no overlap; produced by facing turned inside of garment; applied where garment edges meet vs. overlap

Centered Zipper Insertion (Slot Zipper Insertion)

two seam edges folded, abutted, or faced over center of zipper

Tailored Placket or Shirtsleeve Placket

two strips of unequal widths of fabric; encloses raw edges of opening; topstitched, overlapped

Centered Zipper Insertion

decorative zipper; enlarged teeth and wide tape; visible on face of garment

Fly-front Concealed Zipper Insertion

extension conceals ½ of zipper; used on rain or snow weather garments; used when other fasteners or zipper applications would detract from appearance

Lap Zipper Insertion

folded seam edge laps over zipper; zipper concealed

Trouser Fly Zipper Insertion

folded seam edge stitched along stitching guidelines on zipper tape; only one line of stitching is visible; used on trousers, pants, jeans

Hemline designated line along which the hem is folded, faced, finished, and may be stitched or held in place with bonding agents

hem allowances (HA)

high quality garments = wider hems; Why wider hem is better: garment tends to hang smoothly when weighted by wide HA; wide HA can be let down to suit different needs/preferences; wide HA can be let down to conform to changing fashion

Type of hem depends on type, finish, weight, and hand of fabrics; depends on style, design, type, use, and care of garment; depends on methods of production and manufacturing

Band Hem shaped, bias, or straight grain double ply strip of fabric folded or seamed; applied to garment edge (visible on face of garment); uses: produces a clean finish, introduces color or textural contrast to garment edge, increases length of garment

Faced Hem clean finished hem produced on shaped edge; uses: maintain curved edge, reduce bulk on garments made of heavy fabric, maintain illusion of fabric on garments made of lace, support and maintain shape of scalloped edges, lengthen hemline

Bound Hem (Hong Kong Finish or Welt Finished Edge)

hem finish using a bias strip of material; applied to conceal and bind the raw hem edge; applied as decorative detail or for flat hem finish on thick material which could fray

Glued Hem produced by turned-up fold with unfinished edge glued to body of garment; purpose: in lieu of undesirable machine stitching, used on leather, suede, other skins, felt, and other matted fabrics

Horsehair Hem hem produced using stiff, transparent woven bias braid; adds body to hem; produces a billowing affect at lower edge; allows for controlled fullness

Blind Stitched Hem

folded hem secured by series of interlocking loop stitches (modified zigzag stitch); not visible on face of garment; can be applied with or without tape or binding

Machine Stitched Hem

hem held in place with one or more parallel rows of machine stitchingraw edge is folded under; penetrates all plies; visible on face of fabric; uses: garments subjected to increased wear, frequent washings; produces: flat finish for firmly woven or bulky fabrics

Over Edged Hem clean finish on raw edge by interlocking thread loops; produces: finish to unturned raw edge, edges that do not ravel, lettuce edge finish on knit and stretch fabrics

Mitered Hem hem that turns corner; seamed an angle bisecting corner; purposes: eliminates bulk at corners, achieves a flat look at corner or points, squares corner of faced and other hems, produces continuous fitted look when trim added

Rolled Hem narrow double-folded hem, 1/8 inch (.2 mm); raw edge is folded and stitched in one operation, or machine stitched in stages; purpose: lightweight edge finish on very full garments of sheer and lightweight fabrics, also used on scarves

Weighted Hem hem in which metal chain, square or round lead disk, lead pellets, are added or attached to hem; purposes: control drape of hem, help hem fall evenly, keep hem straight, hold hem detail in place, prevent hem areas from shifting or riding up on body, add body to hem of

lightweight fabrics; uses: lower edge of pleats and slashed openings, front corner of hem and facings of coats and jackets

Wired Hem stiffened edge produced by incorporating plastic monofilament or wire into the fold of a narrow hem; purposes: adds body without weight to hem, produces hem areas that billows or stand out, creates structural detail to ruffles and trimmings, produces a lettuce edge on sheer and lightweight fabrics