Teaching Math in Uganda

by

Raymond N. Greenwell

Copyright 2009. All rights reserved. AsIattempttowriteanaccountofmytraveltoUgandainJune2009,Iamplaguedbythesketchinessandillegibilityofmynotes,oftenscribbledinanotebookasthevehicleinwhichIwasridingbumpedalongahopelesslypotholedroad.Worse,mymemory,nevertooreliable,isalreadyhavingtroublerecallingwhathappened.(Iscribbledthefollowingwordsonthebottomofonepage:"Aplaceyearningtoseethem."Ihavenoideawhatthatmeans.)Itisthereforenotonlypossible,butlikely,thatthisaccountbearslittleresemblancetowhatactuallyhappened.Nevertheless,itiscompletelytrue,andifyoulike,youcanfollowalongwiththephotographsathttp://people.hofstra.edu/raymond_n_greenwell/pictures.htmlTableofContents1.TeachandTour2.Amsterdam3.OntoUganda4.Jinja5.Rafting6.MurchisonFalls7.Thefirstworkday8.EducationinUganda9.Language10.ThursdayatMengo11.Religion12.Food13.BrightAngels'College14.TaxisinKampala15.ChurchandNdereDanceTroupe16.ForestHillCollege17.Twoschools,oneday18.Newguests,oldschool19.TombsandAgaKhan20.BugemaandEagle'sNest21.BacktoJinja22.ChaoticSunday23.Thelastday24.Cost25.ItemsIwishedIhadbrought

26.ItemsIbroughtthatIshouldhaveleftathome27.Conclusion1.TeachandTourInFebruary2009IreceivedanemailfromEvelynNabaggala,UniversityProgramDirectorforanorganizationcalledTeachandTourSojourners(TATS),invitingmetotraveltoUgandatogivelecturesatuniversitiesandotherschools.ShehadapparentlyemailedprofessorsandteachersintheU.S.atrandom.IwaslookingforsomethingmoreinterestingtodothanteachsummerschoolatHofstraUniversity,whereIhadbeenamathprofessorfor26years.IhadneverbeentoAfrica,soIlookedattheTATSwebsiteathttp://www.teachandtour.com.ThereIreadastatementbyapoliticalscienceprofessornamedJennyfromanearbyuniversitywhohadrecentlybeentoUgandathroughTATS.IsentheranemailtotryandfindoutmoreaboutTATSandtoensurethattheprogramwaslegitimate.Weendeduptalkingonthephoneforaboutanhour,afterwhichIdecidedthatthiswasatotallycrazyidea,andthatIdefinitelywantedtodoit.AnotherhelpfulpersoninpreparingformytripwasaCanadiantheaterprofessornamedMichael,whohasablogofhisTATSexperienceathttp://www.mytripjournal.com/travel‐438957.DuringthemonthsbeforeIleft,ItriedtogetascheduleofmytalksfromEvelyn,butIsoonfoundfirsthandwhatothershadtoldme:It'sveryhardtogetanythingpreciselypinneddowninUganda.Ifyouwantapreciseschedulewithitemizedbillsandeverythingspelledout,gotoGermany.IfyougotoUganda,atleastthroughTATS,bepreparedforchaos.Ifyoucangowiththeflowandenjoyit,youcanhaveablast.2.AmsterdamOnJune11,2009,ItookofffromNewarkInternationalAirport.BeforelandingforafourhourlayoverinAmsterdam,Ispokewiththeothertwopeopleinmyrow.OnewasaDutchnative,andtheotherhadaNetherlandsguidebook.IdiscoveredthatatraincantakeyoufromtheairporttodowntownAmsterdaminabout20minutes.VisitingacityIhadnevervisitedbeforesoundedalotmorefunthansittingaroundtheairport,soafterwelanded,ItooksomeeurosoutofanATM,boughtatrainticket,andsoonwaswanderingaroundAmsterdam.Yes,Amsterdamreallydoeshavecanalseverywhere.AndtheNetherlandshaslotsofwindmills,butthey'rethemoderntypeforenergygeneration.Mostpeopleseemtogetaroundonbicycles,allequippedwithbellssuitableforwarningajet‐laggedAmericanthatacollisionwasimminent.Iwantedsomethingtoeatandsowashappytoseeaplacelabeled"CoffeeShop."IwaspuzzledwhenIwalkedin,sinceIsawnothingtoeatordrink.ApparentlyI'mtheonlypersonleftintheworldtonot

knowthatDutchcoffeeshopsdon'tsellcoffee.TwomenbehindthecountersmiledasIapproachedandopenedupalargewoodendisplaycasewithseveraldozenvarietiesofmarijuana.IquicklyexplainedthatIwaslookingforsomethingtoeat.Theylaughed,andthenIlaughed.Hahaha!SillyAmerican.Fortunately,onanotherblockIfoundashopwithpastriesinthewindow.IatethemostlusciouspastryI'veeverhadinmylife,awafflewithchocolatecoatingandnutsontop.There'snowayIcanexplaintoyouhowgoodittasted.IwasdeliriousasIsateatingitatatableonthesidewalk,watchingtheboatsandbicyclesandenjoyingthebrilliantsunshineinthecoolmorning.IwishedIhadprintedamapofAmsterdambeforeleaving.Icameacrossasignwithamap,butallthestreetstwistedaroundandhadunpronounceablenameswithtoomanyconsonants.Withamapandamoredeterminedpace,IcouldhavemadeittoAnnFrank'shouse.3.OntoUgandaIgotbacktotheairportwithtimetospare.TherewasnowayIwasgoingtomissmyflight.AirportsecurityinAmsterdamisatthegate,ratherthanbeforeyouenterthegatearea.TheadvantageisthatyouavoidthehugelinesthroughAmericansecurity.Thedrawbackisthatthereisnofoodordrinkyoucanbuyonceyou'vegonethroughsecurity.Fortunately,lotsoffoodwasofferedontheflight.IalternatedbetweenreadingmybookandwatchingoutthewindowaswecrossedEurope,thentheMediterranean,andthenAfrica.IwasamazedathowvasttheSaharadesertwas,goingonforeveruntilnightmadeittoodarktosee.AswelandedatEntebbe,Iwasstruckbyhowdarkeverythingwas.TheUgandanswereclearlymorefrugalwithelectricitythanAmericans.AsIwalkedthroughtheairport,Inoticedhugepilesofmothsoutsidethewindows,drawntothelightinside.Gettingouttooklonger,sinceagroupofmask‐cladmedicalpeoplewerequestioningeveryoneaboutsymptomsoftheH1N1flu.Iboughtmyvisa($30,Ithink),foundmybag,andwasafreeman.Larry,thedriverforTATS,waswaitingformeoutsidethebaggageclaim.Larryisafriendly,quietmanwhochucklesatdrivingconditionsthatwoulddrivealessermanberserk.EntebbeislocatedaboutanhourfromKampala,thecapitalofUganda.Theroadisdecentandwasnottoocrowdedlateatnight.CongestionwasworseindowntownKampala,wheredriversdidnotseemtotakelanesseriouslyandcareenedthroughtheroads,lookingforanopening.FromKampalawehada40minuteridetotheTATSguesthouseonNajjeraRoad,outsidethesuburbofNtinda.Nearourdestination,theroadappearedtohaveundergoneabombingraid.Thesewerenotpotholes;thesewerevastcraters,intowhichmyMiniCooperwouldhavedisappearedwithoutbeingseenagain.TheoversizedwheelsonLarry'sToyotaHiluxtruckgavehimanadvantage,buthestillwanderedfromonesideoftheroadtoanothertoavoidthebiggestholes,facingnearhead‐oncollisionswithother

driversdoingthesame.Iwassurprisedthatmorevehiclesdidn'thavefour‐wheeldrive.ThemostcommoncarbyfarwastheToyotaCorolla.WemadeastopalongthewaysoIcouldwithdrawUgandashillingsfromanATM.TheATMattheairportwouldn'ttakemyCiticard,butaStanbicbankontheroadhomewashappytogivemeahugepileofshillings.Theexchangeratewasabout2100shillingsperdollar,butthroughoutthetrip,Iroundedthisfigureto2000,makingiteasytoconvertinmyhead.Iwillusethe2000figurethroughoutthisaccount.A10,000shillingnoteisthenworthabout$5.Whenyouget460,000shillingsin10,000shillingnotes,itmakesafatwad.Ilaterfoundthatitcouldbehardtogetchangeforbillsinlargerdenominations,andcreditcardsarerarelyaccepted.AsweapproachedtheTATSguesthouse,agentlemannamedStephenopenedthegate.Hestayedinasmallroomrightbythegate.Theguesthousewasinsideacompoundwithbarbedwirearoundthetopofthefence.Despitethisominousappearance,thecrimerateinUgandaislow.Theguesthousewasoneofseveralhousesconnectedtogether.Itconsistedofonesmallbedroom,whereIstayed,alargerbedroom,alivingroomthatbecameathirdbedroomasneeded,akitchen,andabathroom.Thekitchenlackedastoveoroven;allcookingwasdoneoncharcoalstovesbythebackdoor,exceptforanelectricpotforboilingwater.Theaccommodationswerecomparabletoadormroom,hardlythe"firstclass"accommodationsEvelynpromisedinheremail,butthebedwascomfortable,andIwasverysleepy.Therewerenoscreensonthewindows,butIwashappyandsurprisedtodiscoverthatUgandahadveryfewinsects(despiteallthemothsattheairport),soIcouldleavemywindowopentoletthecoolnightairgentlyblowintomyroom.4.JinjaThefollowingmorningIwokeupandcouldhardlybelieveIwasinAfrica.ItbecamelesshardtobelievewhenItookashower.Warmwatercameoutofthehand‐heldshowerheadinmoreofatricklethanaspray.TherewasinsufficientwaterpressureforthewatertoreachmyheadwhenIstoodup,soIsatinthetubandheldthewandovermyhead.Brownwaterflowedoffofmedownthedrain.IcouldhardlybelieveIhadgottensodirtysofast,butthereddustontheroadswaspervasive.Thehousekeepersthoroughlycleanedtheguesthousedaily,butthereddustreturnedasfastastheycouldremoveit.Bessywasthehousekeeperwhomadebreakfastthatmorning.Shewasalovelyyoungwomanwithasweetdisposition.Ugandanstendedtonoteatbreakfast,andbreakfastforuswasusuallyminimal:teaandbreadwithpeanutbutter,jam,orhoney.Welaterhadsomejuicethatwasessentiallysugarwaterwithorangeflavoring,butafterseveraldayssomerealorangejuice(orsotheboxclaimed)appearedintherefrigerator.Ugandansdidn'tneedbreakfastbecausetheyatedinnersolate,usuallybetween9p.m.andmidnight.Thosefirstfewdinnerswere

roughonme,sinceIwasreadytofallasleeparound9:00.Ipleadedforanearlierdinnertime,andsodinnerwasthenservedatthepreposterouslyearlyhourof7:00p.m.Atvarioustimesthereweretwootherhousekeepers.BettywasaquietwomanwhospokelittleEnglishandworeherhairshortinthestyleofAfricanschoolgirls.Miriamwasathin,gracefulwomaninherthirtieswhoseemedtocarryagesofAfricansufferinginhereyes.Shehadseveralkidsbutherhusbandwasnolongercaringforanyofthem.TheotherguestinthehousewasAndrew,alanky,generousgraduatestudentincriminaljustice.HehadbeeninAfricaforseveralweeks,teachingvarioustopicsinlocalschoolswhiledoingresearchonwildlifepoaching.Afterbreakfast,LarrydrovemetoJinja,atownaboutanhourandahalf(oralotmoreiftrafficwasbad)eastofKampala,wherewaterflowedoutofLakeVictoriatobegintheNileRiver.FirstwestoppedattheMartyrsShrine,commemoratingthespotwhere22Catholicsweremartyredwhentheyrefusedtorenouncetheirfaithin1886.Iwasfortunatetoarrivewhenthestudentswerepracticingtheirmusic,abeautifulcall‐and‐responsetypeofsingingaccompaniedbydrumsandotherinstruments.IboughtaCD,butwaslaterdisappointedtolearnthatthemusicsoundednothinglikewhatIhadheardthestudentssing.OntheroadtoJinja,westoppedattheUgandaformoffastfood.BeforeLarryhadfullystoppedthetruck,dozensofvendorswereshovingfoodandbottlesofwaterintoourcarwindows.Theyallworeidenticalbluesmocks,indicatingthattheyareofficiallyregisteredvendors.Thefoodisyummy,cheap,andfast:beefandchickenbarbecuedonastick,aswellasaroastedbananaknownasgonjn.Thevendorscarrythebananasinabasket,butyoumustgivethatback,andtheygiveyouapieceofpaperwithwhichtohold(orattempttohold)thebananas.InJinjawestoppedattheNileRiverandtookaboatridetowhatislabeledthesourceoftheNile,abarelynoticeablerippleintheriverwhereanundergroundspringdelivers30%oftheNile'swater.(TherestcomesfromLakeVictoria.)Iheardthatthewaterfromthespringcouldbeseeneruptinguntilthenearbydamwasbuilt,raisingthewaterlevelandsubmergingthespring.Westoppedatasmallisland,whereyoungUgandansfrolickedinandoutofthewater.Wewereaccompaniedbyaself‐appointedtourguide,aboyofabout16yearswhogavearunningcommentaryandofferedtotakephotographs.Attheend,hewantedsomemoney,andLarryexplainedtomethatthemoneyIpaidtoTATSforthisday($80,Ilearnedafewdayslater)didnotincludethisfellow.Larryofferedhima1000shillingnote(50cents),butthefellowdeclinedandexchangedafewwordswithLarryinLuganda,thelanguageofthetribethatinhabitscentralUganda.IaskedLarrywhatthisconversationwasabout.Larrysaidthatthefellowdoesn'twanthislittlemoney;hewantsmybigmoney.Ihadnothingsmallerthana10,000shillingnote($5),soIgavethattohim.Hewasjusthustlingtomakealiving,assomanypoorUgandansweredoing.Thattipshouldhaveincludedasongontheguitar‐like

instrumenthewascarrying,buthedidn'tplayitontheboatduetotheenginenoise,andatthispointIwasn'tinterestedinwaitingaround.Idid,however,stoptosamplesomenutsfromawomanvendor,andendedupgettingabagofverytastypeanuts.Ivideoed(forafee)somedancersfromanorphans'school.WealsovisitedashrinededicatedtoGhandi,andthenweleftforBujagaliFalls,aseriesofsmallfallsandrapidsontheNile.Ididn'tappreciatehowwellIwouldcometoknowthosefallsthefollowingday.Iadmiredthebirdlife:storks,eagles,andcormorants.OurnextstopwasatNileRiverExplorers(NRE),whereImadeareservationtoraftontheNilethefollowingday.IhadacoupleofrecommendationsforanothercompanynamedAdrift,butNileRiverExplorerssaidtheyusedsmallerboats,whichappealedtome.Also,ifmyinformationwascorrect,Adriftgivesanicelunchhalfwaythroughthetrip,whileNREprovidesabreakfastatthebeginning,dinnerandbeerattheend,andalightsnackmidwaythroughthetrip.Iwashappytolearnthatthe$125foradayofraftingincludedtransportationtoandfromKampala.Also,theyvideoedsegmentsofthetripandmadeaDVDforsaleat$25.Thiswouldturnouttobeagoodpurchase,becauseotherwiseIwouldneverbelieveafterwardswhatIexperiencedthenextday.Onthewayhome,LarryandIstoppedattheHotelAfricanainKampala,whereweatesamosasbesidetheswimmingpool.AlthoughsamosasoriginatedinIndia,theyareverypopularineastAfrica.IthinktheAfricanversioniseventastier.Wealsostoppedtogetaboxofbottlesofdrinkingwater.Ihadboughtacoupleofbottlesattheairport,andmorebottleswereavailableatastorejusta10minutewalkfromtheguesthouse,butthisboxmeantIwashydratedforseveraldays.5.RaftingSaturdaynightthewatermysteriouslystoppedrunningintheguesthouse.Larryfilledsomejerrycanswithwateratanearbygasstationsothatwecouldstillcleanupandoccasionallyflushthetoilet.Ilaterlearnedthatwaterwasrunningatthehouseunderconstructionnextdoor.Thisscuttledthetheorythattherewasnowaterintheareabecauseworkershadcutthepipewhilerepairingtheroad.Ittookmeseveraldaysofexperimentingbeforefindingthatthebeststrategyforbathingwastofilloneofthesmallerjerrycansabouthalfwaysoitwasstilllightenoughtoliftovermyhead,andpourthewaterovermeasIsatinthetub.Itwascold,anditdidn'tremoveallthegrime,butitwasadequate.EarlySundaymorningLarrydrovemetothenearbyshoppingcenter,wheretheNREvanpickedmeup.WepickedupmoreraftersattheRedChiliCampontheeastsideofKampala,andthenheadedtoJinja,wherewehadamorethoroughbreakfastthatthoseattheguesthouse.IhadmyfirsttastethereoftheextraordinaryUgandanpineapple,aswellaschapati,theyummyUgandanbreadthatiskindofacrossbetweenapancakeandatortilla.

Alargetruckthentransportedtheroughlysevenraftsandtheirsoon‐to‐beoccupantstoourdrop‐offpointontheNile.Aswebarreledalong,childreninmudhutswiththatchedroofswavedatus.Ifounditdifficulttotakephotos;aninterestinggroupofkidswouldappear,butweflewbythemalmostbeforemybraincouldregister.Ontheway,IchattedwithanAmericanpsychologistandhisEgyptian‐bornpsychologistwife.TheywereinUgandatoteachmorehumanedisciplinarymethodsintheschools.Caninghadbeenoutlawedafewyearsearlier,buttheysaiditwasstillwidelypracticed,usuallyattheurgingoftheparents.Atthedrop‐offpoint,thoseofuswithtenderfeetwalkeddelicatelyacrosstheground;wewerewarnedtogobarefootbecauseanyfootwearwouldbepulledoffbytherapids.Whilewaitingtoboardtheraft,Ifeltsomethingonmyfoot.Isawamillipede,similartotheharmlessonesinNewYorkstateforests.IwasabouttotouchitwhensomeonewarnedmethatthoseinUgandagiveanastysting.OK,Iguesswe'renotinKansasanymore,Toto.Ineedtobemorecareful.Wealldonnedourlifejacketsandhelmets.IboardedaraftwithfourBrits,twoIrishsisters,andanAussieguidenamedJesse,whotraineduswhilewewereinstillwaterinthelogisticsofhowtohandleaflippedraft.Thestillwaterdidn'tlastlong,aswesoonapproachedourfirstoffourClass5rapids.Aswepickedupspeed,Jessecalledforustokeeppaddling,althoughoursensestoldusthiswasmadnessasweplungeddownthefalls.Beforewehitbottom,heyelledout,"Getdown!"Althoughwecouldbarelyhearhisvoiceovertheroaroftherapids,weneedednofurtherpromptingandcrouchedinthebottomoftheraftwhileholdingtheropeaswehadbeentrained.Thecrashatthebottomfeltlikeanautoaccidentinaveryrubberycar.Theraftthenshotupasitflewoverthewave,miraculouslyavoidflipping.Thenasecondwavecrashedovertheraft.ForafewsecondsIcouldseeverylittlethroughallthewater,butoutofthecornerofmyeyeInoticedtheyoungmanwhohadbeensittingnexttomesuddenlygoflyingandvanishintotheroaringwater.Whenwehadpassedthroughtheworstoftherapid,Inoticedthatourboatwaslesspopulatedthanbefore.Afewrescuekayakersandalltheraftsspunaroundcollectingassortedpaddlesandbodyparts.Onerapiddown,threemoretogo.Wehadaquietspell,andthenthesecondcrazyrapid,afterwhichwesettleddownforasnackofpineappleandcookies.Wehadplentyoftimetolayaroundandrelax.WeoftenpassedAfricanvillagerswashingtheirclothesorthemselvesontherocksbytheriverbank.Wewavedandsmiled.OneUgandangirlusedabuckettotosswaterontheoccupantsofmyraft.Thepeoplewepassedwereclearlyverypoor,butwhenIsawamanlatheringhiswholebodyinadeliciousbathintheriver,Iwasmomentarilyenvious.Afterlunch,severalpeopledepartedwhohadonlysignedupforahalfday.At$115,ahalfdaymakesnofinancialsense,butanyonewatchingusgetbatteredaroundmightwonderifanyofthismadeanysense.Ijoinedtheremainingoccupantsofthedepopulatedraft:anAfricanguidenamedHenry,thepsychologistcouple,andaDutchmanwhowasevenolderthanme.Ithenrealizedthatalltheotherrafters

werequiteabityounger.Mostpeopleover40areuneasyabouthavingthismuchfun.Unlikemypreviouscompanions,theseraftershadalreadyflippedacoupleoftimes,soIknewtheafternoonwouldbeexciting.Sureenough,inthenextrapid,astheraftwentflyingupwards,itflippedoverandweallwentflyingtoo.Iwasfortunate,landingoutside(ratherthanunderneath)theraft,andcloseenoughsoIcouldeasilygrabtherope.IbecamelesssanguinewhenInoticedthatthecurrentwaspushingustowardabunchofrocks,withmetrappedbetweentherocksandtheraft.Henryhadgrabbedthefarendoftheraft.Icalledouttohim,"Thisisnotgood!"(Soeloquentinmomentsofpanic.)Fortunately,Henrywasabletopushtherafttoasaferlocation,andwewerealleventuallyabletoclimbintootherraftswhileHenryandothersworkedtorightourraft.WecametoaClass6rapidthatwasoutofourleague,sowegotoutandgingerlywalkedbarefootalongabypasspath.Theguideshadtougherfeetandstrodebyuscarryingtheraftsovertheirheads.Attheendoftheday,wewalkedupasteeppathtowherethetruckwaswaitingforus.Thepathwouldn'thavebeentoobadinboots,butpresentedachallengeinbarefeet.Butweallmadeitandhadourchoiceoffruitjuiceatthetop.(Minewaspinacolada.Yum!)AnotherbumpytruckridetookusbacktotheNREheadquarters,whereabarbecuedinnerawaitedus,plusticketsfortwobeers.Whatamagicalwaytoendtheday,eatingAfricanbarbecueanddrinkingaNileSpecial(myfavoriteUgandanbeer)whilelookingattheNilefromacliffabout100ftabovethewater.TheytolduswehadanhourbeforethebuswouldleaveforKampala.Inoticedthattherewereshowersthereforcamperstouse,andIwasacutelyawareofhowmuddyIhadbecomebothintheriverandontheclimbupthebank.Soaftereatingsomefoodanddrinkingmyfirstbeer,Irantogetaquickshower.JustasIhadpulledoffmyclothes,IheardsomeonecalloutthatthebusforKampalawasabouttoleave."Noooo!"TheAmericanpsychologistwasinthebathroom,soIaskedhimtotrytoholdthebusuntilIgotout.Irinsedoffintheshower,driedoff,andpulledonmyclothes,allsoquicklythattheactswerealmostsimultaneous.Iranoutandjumpedonthebus,whichimmediatelytookoff.ThebuswasveryspaciousforthedozenorsogoingbacktoKampala.Suchluxurycouldnotbetolerated,sotheystoppedintownandloadedusintoavan.Unfortunately,thevandriverdidn'tknowhiswayaroundKampalaandgothopelesslylosttryingtofindtheRedChiliCamp,wherethefirstgroupwassupposedtogetoff.Eventuallyhefoundthecamp,butthenhadnoideahowtogettherestofustothedropoffattheshoppingcenter.Peoplewithcellphoneswerecallingtotryandgetdirections,andtherewasalotofconfusingconversationsbetweenpeoplespeakingLugandaandpeoplespeakingEnglishandnooneunderstandinganything.Eventuallythedriverthoughtheknewtheway,andsureenoughIeventuallysawtheshoppingcenteracrossthestreet.IhadalreadycalledLarryonsomeone'scellphone,askinghimtopickmeupthere.

AtthispointIencounteredmyclosestbrushwithdangerwhileinUganda.ThedriverofthevanwasstillsayingsomethinginLuganda,butIjustwantedtogetacrossthefirsthalfofthestreettothedividerinthemiddle.Ilookedtomyleft,andseeingnotraffic,Iwasabouttherunintothestreet.Atthelastmoment,IglancedtomyrightandfrozewhenIsawthestampedeofcarsabouttocrushmybodyintotinypiecesifItookanotherstep.IhadbeeninUgandaforacoupleofdays,soIknewthattheydriveontheleftsideoftheroad,asinEngland.ButIwastiredandhadnotbeenthinkingclearly.IwasabitrattledathowcloseIhadcometoseriousinjuryordeath.EventuallyIdidgetacrossthestreet,andafterevenmoretimeIfoundLarry,whohadgonetotheothersideofthestreettolookforme.Isleptwellthatnight.6.MurchisonFallsMyfirstschoolvisitwasn'tuntilWednesday,soonMondaymorningLarryandIlefttheguesthousetovisitMurchisonFalls,thebestwildlifeparkinthecountry.InKampalawepickedupRachael,arabbinicalstudentwhowasstayingataprivatehomewhileteachingartthroughTATS.Rachaelwasaperky,wirywomanwholookedmorelikeabackpackerormarathonrunner(andshewasboth)thanarabbi.ThethreeofusheadednorthforMurchison.WehadareservationforaboatrideontheNileat2:00.Thisturnedouttobeunrealistic;wehadleftKampalatoolate,andwehadtomakeacoupleofstopsalongtheway.Nottoworry;Larrysaidtherewasa2:30boatridewecouldmake.Hespedalongthebumpy,pot‐holedroad(IwasgettingusedtothisexperienceinUganda,exceptitwasn'tsomethingyoucouldevergetusedto)inadesperateattempttogetustotheboatontime.Rachaelcried"Slowdown!"asLarry'strucknearlyflewofftheroad.Henearlyranoverseveralpacksofbaboons,whoseemedasunconcernedaboutgettingoutofourwayassomeofthepedestriansinBrooklynortheBronx."Hey,humans,webaboonshavetherightofway."Iwasunhappyabouttheironythatratherthanstoppingforarareopportunitytostudybaboonfamiliescloseup,wewereinaracetoviewwildlife.Itwasallinvainanyway.WearrivedattheNileabout3:00.WetookphotosoftheherdofelephantsontheothersideandthenreturnedtotheRedChiliCampafewhundredyardsfromtheriver,wherewestayedforthenight.WhileLarryandRachaelrested,Itriedstalkingbaboonsonfoot.Thebaboonsnearthecampwerelessboldthantheoneswehadseenearlierontheroad.AsIapproached,theymovedaway,keepingadistanceofabout50yardsbetweenus.Theyfinallyenteredagroveoftree,fromwhichIcouldhearbaboonwarningcries.Idecidedtostopthepursuit.Themaleinthegrouplookedprettybig,andIdidn'twanttogetonhisbadsideinclosequarters."We'renotsurewhathappenedtoRay,butthelastpictureinhiscamerawasagreatclose‐upofanangrylookingbaboon."Thewarthogshadnosuchfear.AsIwalkedcloserandclosertoone,Ithoughthewouldeventuallyrunawayorthreatenme,buthedidneither.Ilatersawacoupleofwarthogslyinginapileinthecampasiftheyweresomefamily'spets.

IhadoneofmybetterdinnersinUgandaattheRedChiliCampthatnight.Ourcabinwasastepupfromtheguesthouse.Ithadscreens!Andashower!RachaeltookonebedroomwhileLarryandIsharedtheother.Wealsohadalivingroom,exceptthelightfixturewasmissingabulb.Irequestedabulbintheafternoon,andwhenitwasn'ttherebydark,Iwenttopursuemycasefurther.Eventuallysomeoneatthebarbroughtoutabulbandputitonacountertobetakentomycabinatsomefuturetime.Afterawhile,Isnatchedthebulb,wentbacktothecabin,putitinthesocket,andtherewaslight.IhadnotcompletelyreplacedmyNewYorkwayswithUgandaways.Wegotupat6:00thefollowingmorningforoursafari.Therewasnoelectricityinthemorning,soItookmyshowerbycandlelight.(Ugandaliesontheequator,andthesunrisesatabout7a.m.andsetsabout7p.m.,with12hoursofdaylightyearround.)WewereattheNileintimetowatchthesunrise,andLarrydrovehistruckontotheferry.Ontheotherside,hedroveslowlyontheroadthroughtheparkwhileweviewedalltheanimalsaroundus.Wesawelephants,giraffes,baboons,Africanbuffalo,warthogs,andvariousdeer‐likeanimals,includinghartebeest,oribi,kob,andwaterbuck.IsawnumerousbirdswhosenamesIcan'trecall.Wedidn'tseealion,myonlyregretonthesafari.Myfavoriteanimalwasthelargemaleelephantstandingveryclosetotheroad.Atonepointhedecidedweweretoocloseforhisliking,andhechargedatusafewsteps.OurheartsskippedabeatasLarrylurchedthecarforwardabit.Thatseemedtopacifyhim,ashecontinuedtograzeandoccasionallytosssomedirtintheair.Heurinatedfairlyearlyduringourvisit,andhewasinnohurrytopullhispenisbackin,leavingitunsheathedforalltogazeatinwonder.BackattheRedChiliCamp,wehadanicelunchandthenhungarounduntilthe2:30boatridetothefalls,replacingtheonewehadmissedthepreviousday.Fromtheboatwesawmorehipposthanwecouldcount,aswellasacoupleofcrocodilesandmoreherdsofelephants.Weeventuallysawthefallsaboutahalfmileinthedistance,afterwhichwereturnedtoshore.Larrynowfacedalonglatedrivehome.Iadmiredhisstamina;Ifellasleepalmostimmediately,butkeptwakingupevery5secondswhenwehitahugebump.WestoppedinthetownofMasindi(Ithink;whoknows?)foroneoftheworstdinnersofourtrip.Itwasabout1:00a.m.,waypastmybedtime,whenwefinallyreturnedtotheguesthouse.7.ThefirstworkdayIwokeupabout3:00a.m.onWednesdaymorningandheardthesoundofwaterrunning.Igotuptowitnessthismiracleandsawthatwaterwaspouringoutofthefaucet,whichhadbeenleftopen.Ishutthetap,enjoyedtheexperienceofflushingthetoilet,andwentbacktosleeptothesoundofthewatertankoutsidemybedroomwindowfillingup.

Despitethelatenight,Iwokeupalittleafter7:00a.m.,excitedaboutmyfirstdayofwork.Wehadtoleaveat8:00a.m.formytalkatMakerereCollegeSchool(asecondaryschoolaffiliatedwithMakerereUniversity)at9:00a.m.AsIsatinthetubshoweringoffthegrit,Larrycalledthroughthebathroomdoorandsaidthatwehadtoleaveimmediatelybecausemytalkwasswitchedto8:00.Ifinishedmyshowerasfastaspossible,dressed,grabbedmystuff,andleftwithouteatingbreakfast.IatemylastKashibarasLarryslowlydrovethroughthemaddeningearlymorningKampalatraffic.Briefmomentsofmotionwerefollowedbyseeminglyeternalwaitstomoveagain.Theonlyonesmovingwerethemotorcycliststryingtoweavethroughthecarswithoutgettingcrushed.Ugandanstakeallthiswithcalmnessandgrace.TheonlyUgandanIsawgetangrywasamotorcyclistwhomLarryalmostranover.Kampalaonlyhasthreetrafficlights,andtheseareoftensupersededbyatrafficcopwhodecideswhichlanecanproceedwithalltherandomnessofabouncerlettingpeopleintoaManhattannightclub.Wefinallyreachedtheschoolalittlebefore9:00.Everyonethereseemedsurprisedtoseeus.ThiswasanearlyindicationthatcommunicationisnotastrongpointinUganda.AfterLarryleft,Ihungoutinthestaffroom,tiredandhungry.Iwasverygratefulwhensomeonefinallyofferedmeacupoftea,andevenmoregratefulwhenanotherbroughtmeacoupleofsamosas.Whenahugetrayofsamosasarrivedatthe10:40break,Iwasecstatic.Totopitall,ateacherofferedmetheuseofhislaptopsoIcouldemailKarla,mywife.Thestaffroomhadwifi!TherewasacomputerintheTATSguesthouse,butitoftenwasn'tworking,andwhenthecomputerwasworking,theinternetconnectionfrequentlywasdown.Evenwhenthecomputerandinternetworkedperfectly,thespacebarwasdefective,requiringtheusertoalmostjumpupanddownonittogetaspace.Butforamomentthatmorning,everythinginlifewasperfect.ThingscontinuedtobegoodwhenImetaclassat11:00.ThetalkIgaveatthesecondaryschoolswasamagicact,inwhichallthetricksarebasedonmathematicalprinciples(plusabitofdeceithereandtheretoenhancethemystery).WhenIcorrectlypredictedacardthatwasapparentlyselectedatrandom,ordidacalculationinmyheadfarfasterthanthestudentscoulddoitontheircalculators,theclassexplodedinlaughterandamazement,eagertolearnhowmathcouldcausesuchmagic.Theclasshadabout80students,acommonclasssizeinUganda.TheclassroomwasprimitivebyU.S.standards,withacrudeblackboardthatwashardtowriteonclearly.Despitethesedisadvantages,thestudentsseemedtobemoreadvancedmathematicallythanAmericanstudentsofthesameage.Theyaskedgreatquestions,andIhadwonderfulinteractionswiththem.Itaughtasecondclass,afterwhichwehadlunch.Rachaelappearedattheschoolandsatnexttome.ShewasasimpressedwiththisschoolasIwas,andsaidthiswasoneofthebestschoolsshehadvisited.Lunchwasfilledwithalong,boringmeetingofendlessreportsonsuchtrivialmatters(tome,anyway)aboutdetailsofstudentbehaviorandcleanliness,studentsmissingassemblyandboyswhosebeardswere

toolong(noneevenapproachedthelengthofmine,whichisverytrimcomparedwithwhatitwasinthe80's)orwhodidn'tweartheappropriatetieorbeltbuckle.Theyalsoreportedtheresultsofalltheintermuralsportscompetitions.Finally,theyintroducedRachaelandme,afterwhichIlefttowalkuptheroadtoMakerereUniversity(http://www.mak.ac.ug/),thelargestandmostprestigiousuniversityinUganda,formy3:00seminar.AlthoughKampalaislocatedneartheequator,itsaltitudeofroughly4000ftmakestheclimatepleasant,withhighsinthelow80'sFandlowsinthe60's.Nevertheless,Ifelthotwalkingintheafternoonequatorialsun,especiallydressedinalong‐sleevedshirtandatie,whichseemedtobetheappropriatedressforavisitingprofessor.Findingthemathbuildingwasachallenge,asonepersondirectedmeinonedirection,andonceIgotthere,anotherpersondirectedmebackthewayIcame.IstartedthinkingoftheBritishWWIsong"It'saLongWaytoMakerere."Atlast,liketheHolyGrail,therewasthemathbuildinginfrontofme.Istillhadtofindthemathoffice,sincethebuildingwaspollutedbyotherdepartmentssuchasgeography.IfinallyfoundtheofficeandtoldthesecretarywhoIwas.ThechairofthemathdepartmentwastheonlypersoninUganda,otherthanEvelynofTATS,withwhomIhadcommunicatedbeforeleavingtheU.S.Iwasthefeaturedspeakerattheirweeklyseminar,andIhademailedanabstractofmytalk,whichinvolvedmyrecentresearchinstatistics.ThesecretarytookmetotheclassroomwhereIwouldspeak.Themathdepartmentchair,adignifiedgentlemanbythenameofJuma,roundedupalaptopandacomputerprojectionsystemformetopresentmyslides.Ihadalsobroughtoverheadtransparencies,butIneversawanoverheadprojectorinmyentiretimeinUganda.Itriedcheckingmyemailagainbeforemytalk,buttheMakererecomputersweredinosaursthatkepttimingoutonHofstra'semailserver.ClasseswerenotinsessionduringthemonthofJune,somysmallaudienceconsistedofafewprofessorswhowerearoundaswellasseveralgraduatestudents.I'mnotsurehowmuchtheyappreciatedmytalk.Theireyesseemedabitglazedover,butthat'scommoninmathresearchtalks.Theirquestionsafterwardsfocusednotonmyresearchbutonotheraspectsofmymathematicallife,suchasmyworkwithhighschools.Atleastmytalkwasinappliedmathematics.IlearnedthatthereislittleappreciationofpuremathinUganda,andastudentwhowantedtodohismastersthesisinnumbertheoryhadtogethelpfromoutside.Andrew,LarryandIhaddinnertogetherthatnightontheporchattheguesthouse,alongwithachickenwhosatinthefourthchair.8.EducationinUgandaTheeducationalsysteminUgandaisbasedontheBritishmodel,sinceUgandawasaBritishcolonyuntiltheirindependencein1962.Primaryschoolis7yearslong,andsomechildrenattendedkindergartenbeforethis.Secondaryschoolconsistsof6

years.Thefirst4yearsareOlevel(for"ordinary"?)andthelasttwoareAlevel(foradvanced).ThesecondaryclassesarelabeledS1throughS6.Afterthefirstfouryears,thestudentstakeOlevelexamsinvarioustopics.IwasamazedtoseeontheOlevelsyllabustopicsthatstudentsintheU.S.wouldnotseeuntilcollege,suchasthegraphicalapproachtolinearprogramming.NotallthesetopicsareontheOlevelexam,butIstillthinkthatmyHofstraUniversitystudentswhoarenotmathmajorswouldhavetroublepassingthisexam,whichthebetterUgandanschoolsclaimedwaspassedby80‐90%oftheirstudents.TheOlevelexamconsistsof10questionsfrompartA,worth4points(ormarks,astheycallthem)each,allofwhichmustbeanswered,plusany5ofthe7questionsinpartB,worth12pointseach.Thequestionscoveralgebra,systemsoftwoequationsintwounknowns,planarandthree‐dimensionalgeometry,statistics,sets,probability,basiccalculus,andmathoffinance.Theexamistwoandahalfhourslong,andthereisnomultiplechoice.Non‐programmablescientificcalculatorsareallowed.AkindteacheratKyambogoCollegeSchool,whichIvisitedthefollowingweek,gavemetwocopieseachoftheOlevelandtheAlevelexamsinmath.HereisasamplequestionfrompartAofanOlevelexam:Giventhat

�

x 2 − y 2 = 135,and

�

x − y = 9,findthevaluesofxandy.HereisthefirstpartofonequestionfrompartBofanOlevelexam.Usingaruler,pencil,andpairofcompassesonly,constructatrianglePQR,whereangleQPR=135°,

�

PQ = 8.4 cmand

�

QR = 12.5 cm.Statethelengthof

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PR .I'mnotsureaboutthescoring,buthereisthegradingscalefromoneteacher'sgradebook,andthismightbewhateveryoneuses.75+ D170‐74 D265‐69 C360‐64 C455‐59 C550‐54 C645‐49 P740‐44 P839orbelow F9Larry,whohadstudiedintheU.S.,feltthattheAmericangradingscalewastoocompressedatthetop.Iagree.StudentswhodidnotpasstheOlevelinmathcouldstilltakeAlevelcoursesinothersubjects,buttheycouldnotgetthehighesthonors.StudentsstudyingmathattheAlevelcouldtakevariouscombinationsofsubjects,suchasPCM(forphysics,chemistry,andmathematics)orMEG(mathematics,economics,andgeography).TheAlevelmathexamwasthreehourslongandincludedmoreadvancedcalculus(integralsanddifferentialequations),vectors,Maclaurinseries,parametricequations,combinatorics,complexnumbers,mechanics,numericalmethods,calculus‐basedprobability,andtrigonometricidentities.

Afterprimaryschool,somestudentscanpursueatrade,suchasbricklaying,ratherthancontinuewithOlevelschooling.Sometypeofeducationpastprimaryschoolismandatory,butthisisnotuniversallyenforced,sinceeventhepublicschoolsrequiretuitionbeyondwhatmanyfamiliescanafford.Atoneschool,Isawdozensofstudentslockedoutatthefrontgatebecausetheirfamilyhadn'tpaidthetuition.InadditiontotakingtheAlevelexam,everyAlevelstudenttakespartinanationalgeneralknowledgeexam.Theteacherchoosesatopiconwhichthestudentwouldwriteapositionpaper.Itcouldbeacontroversialtopicsuchasabortionorcorruption.DuringtheAlevelclasses,studentscanstudyoptionalsubjectssuchasentrepreneurship,finearts,foodscience/nutrition,German,andLuganda.TherewerefewgirlsintheAlevelmathclassesinmostschools,despitethepresenceofseveralfemalemathteachers.Iencouragedthegirlstostaywithmath,andobservedthatalthoughthesituationintheU.S.wassimilarseveraldecadesago,wehavemadegreatstridesinequalparticipationinmathamongmalesandfemales.9.LanguageTheofficiallanguageinUgandaisEnglish,buteveryone'sfirstlanguageisatriballanguage,whicharoundKampalaisLuganda(thelanguageoftheBagandapeoplewholiveinthekingdomofBuganda).EveryonesupposedlylearnsEnglishinschool,althoughpoorerpeoplefromthecountrysidewhodon'tattendmuchschoolmayknowlittleEnglish.Also,someofthepeople'sLugandaaccentwassothickthatIfounditdifficulttounderstandwhattheyweresaying,andIoftenhadtoaskstudentstorepeattheirquestionsacoupleoftimesbecauseIdidn'tunderstandwhatthewordsatfirst.ThehostattheNderedancetroupe(seeSection15below)madejokesabouthisaccent.Heaskedtheaudienceto"beatyourhands."Hethenobservedthatweusedadifferentexpressionandaskeduswhatthatwas.Wesaid,"Clapyourhands."Herepliedthathecouldn'tsaythatbecausehehadtroubledistinguishingtheletterslandr,andhedidn'twanttosoundlikehewasinsultingus.HealsoaskedusAmericanswhatwehadwhenwevotedlastNovember.Wesaidwehadanelection.Thatwasanotherwordhecouldn'tsaywithoutembarrassingus.MyBradtguidebookonUgandahasasectiononSwahiliintheback,butImetnooneinUgandawhospokeSwahili.ThebookhasasmallersectiononLuganda,butitdoesn'tprovidedetailsonpronunciation(norwillIdosohere).Italsohaserrors.Forexample,itgave"owange"astheexpressionfor"excuseme."Larrysaid"owange"means"mine,"whichyouwouldsayifyouwereclaimingsomethingforyourself.Hesaidthecorrectphraseis"Nsongyiwako."Thebookgavethephrasefor"thankyou"("webale")butnotthephrasefor"you'rewelcome"("kaale").Ithaduselessphrasessuchas"DoyouspeakEnglish?"YoumightaswellaskthisquestioninEnglish;you'llknowtheanswerprettyfast.Questionssuchas"HowcanIgettoMbale?"aren'tveryuseful,sinceIprobablywouldn'tunderstandtheanswer.Thebookneglectskeyphrasephrasessuchas"mumasoawo,"whichcomesout

soundinglike"masao."Thisishowyoutellthetaxiyouwantittostopandletyouoff.(SeeSection14.)ItriedtolearnasmanyLugandaphrasesasIcould.Peopleseemtoappreciateattempts,nomatterhowbungled,tospeaktheirnativelanguage,andmyattemptatspeakingLugandadazzledUgandanswhodidn'texpectit.Anotherimportantwordtoknowis"muzungu,"theLugandawordforwhiteperson.Unliketheterm"gringo"inMexico,"muzungu"isawordofawordofrespect,almostofawe.Whenkidswouldwaveatmeandcry"Bye,muzungu!",Ifeltlikearockstar.No,theyweren'ttellingmetogoaway;kidswouldoftensay"bye"whengreetingsomeone.10.ThursdayatMengoThepreviousnightLarryhadinstalledabrighterlightinmyroomsothatatlastIhadenoughlighttoreadatnight.Thurdaymorning'sbreakfastincludedrealorangejuice(thoughnotofthequalityofgoodOJintheU.S.,whichwasapity,consideringthegreatclimateinUgandaforgrowingcitrus).ThingsweregoingsowellthatIhesitatedaskingforonemorething.Buteversincethewaterreturned,onlycoldwatercameoutoftheshower,soIfinallyaskedLarrywhythiswasso,consideringthatIhadwarmwaterthefirstmorning.Hethenpointedoutthehotwaterswitchoutsidethebathroomdoor.Itwasnormallyturnedofftoconserveenergy,butIcouldturnitonabout15minutesbeforeshoweringifIwantedhotwater.Nowlifewasreallygood.LarrytookmetoMengoSeniorSchool(http://www.mengoss.sc.ug/),whereIgaveatalkat11:00.Foundedin1895,itistheoldestschoolinUganda.Itisalsolarge,with3000students.JustlikeatMakerereCollegeSchoolthepreviousday,theclasseswerelargeandthestudentswereexcellent.Iwassupposedtogiveatalkearlierinthemorning,butthatdidn'thappen.Thisgavemefreetimetositoutsideinashelteredspotandhavemydailydevotionaltime,althougheventskeptintruding.IchattedforawhilewithElizabethKatumba‐Tamale,aministerandreligiousstudiesteacher.ThenImetEnockKibuuka,aremarkable,eloquent,andthoughtfulyoungmanwhotoldmeofhisinvolvementwiththeKampalaprojectatVanderbiltUniversity(http://www.vanderbilt.edu/oacs/kampala/projects.html).AtonepointIbecameintriguedbyastudentkneelingasateacherwatchedoverhim.Curiosityovercameme,soIaskedtheteacherifthestudentwasbeingpunishedforsomething.Shesaidthatthestudenthadmisbehaved(Ithinkhemissedaclassorsomethinglikethat)andthenliedaboutit,sayingthatateacherhadsaiditwasokay.SheaskedmeifIwouldliketospeakwiththestudent.Iwassurprised,sinceIknownothingaboutdiscipliningkids,andIwasn'tsurethatI,asatotalstranger,shouldbeinvolvedinaschooldisciplinarymatter.ButIfeltthatvoiceinsidetellingmethatIshouldaccepttheinvitation,soIsaidokay,andtheteachertoldthestudenttocomeover.Igentlyintroducedmyself,askedhimhisname,andthenaskedhimifhehadanyreligiousbelief.(Forcontextonthis,pleaseseethenextsectiononreligion.)Hesaidhewasbornagain.Inowfeltthatthisvoiceinsidewas

indeedGodleadingme.ItoldhimthatI,too,wasbornagainandhadjustbeenreadingPsalm119ashorttimeearlier.IbroughtoutmyBible,showedhimsomeofwhatIhadbeenreading,andinvitedhimtoreadsomeoftheverses.IthenpointedouttohimsomeofthebenefitsthatGodpromisedtothosewhofollowhislaw,andthatlyingwascontrarytohislaw.Heseemedtounderstandandacceptthis.Ishookhishandagainandwishedhimwell,happytobeabletoplaythegoodcopandperhapshaveapositiveinfluenceonthisstudent.Theteacherseemedpleasedwithmyintervention.Mytalkwentwell.Lunchtimewasfilledwithanotherboringstaffmeeting.Istartedtowonderifthesemeetingsoccurredeveryday,butIthinktheyonlyoccuronceaweek.Mytimingwasjustbadonthesefirsttwodays,andIsawnomorestaffmeetingsfortherestofmyvisit.11.ReligionUnlikeintheUnitedStates,thereisnoseparationofchurchandstateinUganda.IwassurprisedwhenthestaffmeetingatMakerereCollegeSchoolbeganwithaprayerwhichclosed"inJesusname,Amen."IaskedlaterabouthowtheMoslemteachersfeltaboutthis.Nooneseemedtocare.Similarly,thestaffmeetingatMengoSeniorSchoolbeganwiththehymn"ItIsWellWithMySoul."WhenIwaswanderingdowntownandboughtsomethingatabooth,thevendorsaidtome,"Godblessyou!"Ireplied,"Godblessyoutoo!"SheaskedifIwasabeliever,andwhenIsaidthatIwas,shesaidthatnotmanyAmericansthatshemetseemedtobebelievers.Ifoundthisodd,becausemanyoftheAmericansImetinUgandaweremissionaries.Nevertheless,thedensityofbelieverspercapitaamongAmericansinUgandamustbesmallerthanthatamongUgandans,almostallofwhomseemtobedevoutCatholics,Protestants,orMoslems.RachaeltoldmeofaJewishcommunityshevisited,thoughIsawnosignsofJudaismaroundKampala.DuringoneofmyQ&Atimeswiththestudents,onetoldmehehadheardthatprayerwasn'tallowedintheschoolsintheU.S.,andhewantedtoknowmoreaboutthis.Iexplainedthatmanyoftheearlyresidentsofourcountryhadescapedreligiouspersecutionintheirnativelands,andtoavoidthisproblemourfoundingfathersestablishedaseparationofchurchandstate,enshrinedinthefirstamendmenttoourconstitution.IaddedthatsomeChristianswanttobreakdownthisseparation,butthatIfelttheseparationwasimportant,givenourhistoryanddiversity.ThestudentsseemedtounderstandthisbetterthansomeofmyChristianfriendsintheU.S.12.FoodIloveethnicfood,soIwaseagertotryEastAfricanfood,whichwasnewtome.Isoonlearnedthatthereisn'tmuchvarietyandthatitisn'tthatgood.Themostpopularfoodismatoke,acooked,mashedbananawithanorangecolor.Atthebetterplacesithasnotaste;fromalousierkitchenithadaslightbittertaste.

Anothercommonstapleisposho,whichlookslikeverywhitemashedpotatoesbutismadefromcorn.Thetasteofposhocomparedwithmashedpotatoesislikemashedpotatoescomparedwithspicychili.Whatmakesthisblandfoodedibleisthesauce,usuallymadefrombeef,chicken,orfish.Withadecentsauceoverit,evenmatokeisn'ttoobad.Itendedtogoforfishifitwasavailable,butsometimesfoundthatallthatwasleftwasfishheads,inwhichcaseIwentforthebeef.Thiscouldcauseproblems,sinceoftenthebeefcameintough,gristlypieces.OftenIwasnotgivenaknife,soIhadtotacklethebeefwithjustafork.Thetoughestpieceswereimpossibletocutwithafork,soItriedpickingthechunkupwithmyforkandpullingoffapiecewithmyteeth,fearingthatanymomentthepieceofmeatwouldgoflyingofftheforkandhitsometeacherinthehead,violatingastrictruleofAfricanetiquette.Sometimesasaucemadefromgroundnutwasavailableforthematokeandposho.Itsoundsbetterthanittastes.ThefirsttimeIhaditataschool,Icouldn'tfigureoutwhatthisfoulbrownslimewas.Laterrenditionswereanimprovement.Howcouldtheynotbe?Isupposethatschoollunchesarenotagoodguidetocuisineanywhere,andIdidhavesomegoodmeals,particularlythegrilledwholetilapiaatTriangleTavern,abouta15minutewalkfromtheTATSguesthouse.Thehousekeepersattheguesthousemadesomedeliciousdisheswithcabbageandothervegetables.Riceandbeanstendedtobetastywhentheycouldbehad.ImentionedtooneoftheteachersthatmywifeandImightgoseveralweeksbeforerepeatingthesamedinnermenu.Hewasamazedatthis.Iaskedhimifhedidn'tevergettiredofeatingmatoke.Hesaidthatitwasimpossibletotireofmatoke.I,however,didtheimpossible.Thebestsnackswerethesamosasandchapati,whichImentionedearlier,andmandazi,atypeofdonut.13.BrightAngels'CollegeOnFridaymorningIdidn'thavetoleaveearly,soIfirstspentsometimevisitingthekidsnextdoor.TheyoungestkidsspokenoEnglish,andtheyseemedshyofmewhenIfirstarrived.Butnowtheygreetedmeecstaticallywith"Bye,muzungu!"Theyoungestboygrabbedmebythehandanddraggedmearoundfromonesideofhisyardtotheother.Onegirlwantedmypen.SinceIstillneededit,Iranbacktothehouseandgotherascentedcandle,severalofwhichIhadbroughtasgifts.Ialsoboughtthekidsabagofpopcornfromthestandonthecorner.LarryandIthendepartedforBrightAngels'College(anothersecondaryschool).Thiswasoneofmyfavoriteplacestovisit.Theschoolisverypoor,meetingincrudeshacks,andthestudentsseemedacademicallyweakerthanatthefirsttwoschoolsIhadvisited.Buttheclasseshadonlyaboutadozenstudents,mostofwhomwere

extraordinarilyfriendly.Theyalsoaskedgreatquestions.OnestudentaskedwhytheU.S.couldn'tdomoretopushUgandatowarddemocracy.Ugandahasasemblanceofdemocracy,butonepartyhasallthepower,andthisstudentconsideredthecurrentpresidenttobeadictator.ThisledtoalivelydiscussionondemocracyinAfrica,corruption,andtheroleoftheU.S.Iwasalsoasked,asIwasateveryschool,howmanychildrenIhad.ThestudentswerealwaysshockedtolearnthatKarlaandIhadnochildren.InUganda,thewholepurposeofmarriagewastohavechildren,andthecompanionshipbetweenhusbandandwifeseemedlikeanunimportantafterthought.IexplainedpersonalreasonsforKarlaandmydecision,aswellassociologicaldifferencesinamoredevelopedcountry.Ialwaysusedthisasateachingmomenttopointoutthatraisingchildrenrequirestime.Havingchildrenisachoice,andpeoplewhohavechildrenanddon'ttakethetimetoraisethemproperlyarebeingirresponsible.KidsateveryschoolwantedtoknowaboutObama,whowasabigheroinAfrica.IsawanObamagroceryandanObamarestaurant,andsomeonetoldmethatyoucouldbuyObamachewingguminsomestores.AlthoughUgandaisaconservativecountryinmanyways,aRepublicanmightnotfeelcomfortablehererightnow.TheotherquestionthatstudentsineveryschoolwantedtoknowwashowtheycouldcometotheU.S.tostudy,particularlyatHofstraUniversity.Iexplainedthatthiswasdifficultforundergraduates.Wehavestudentsfromallaroundtheworld,butmostcomefromfamiliesorcountriesthatarewellenoughofftosupportthem.LikeallAmericanuniversities,Hofstraoffersagreatdealoffinancialaid,buttheymightstillfindattendancethereprohibitivelyexpensive.Ontheotherhand,iftheycangettheirundergraduatedegreeinUganda,graduateeducationintheU.S.ismuchmorerealistic.Inmathematics,forexample,abouthalfoftheAmericandoctorateseachyeararegrantedtostudentsfromothercountries.TheU.S.doesn'tproduceenoughgraduatestudentsinmathtomeetthedemand.Mostgraduateprogramsprovidesufficientfinancialaidtocovertuition,roomandboard,particularlyifthestudentissufficientlyfluentinEnglishtoserveasagraduateassistant.Iencouragedstudentstopursuethisroute,andIofferedmyassistanceinanywayIcould.AfterlunchIcameacrossagroupofgirlssingingsongsinLugandaandEnglish.TheylatertoldmetheybelongedtoaChristiangroupcalledMega‐ManiaMinistries.Oneround,radiantgirlnamedPeacewasparticularlyaffectionatetowardme,andallofthegirlslaterlineduptohavetheirpicturestakenasIwrotetheirnamesinmynotebook.Thiswasanewexperienceforme;Ugandanshadpreviouslyseemedrathershyaboutbeingphotographed.Aftermyafternoontalk,Ihadachancetoobservesomeofthekidssinginganddancing.IfounditwonderfultowitnessrealAfricanmusic,unpollutedbyWesternstyles.

AfterawhileIcalledLarrytofindoutwherehewas.IhadinheritedthecellphoneRachaelhadpreviouslybeenusing.ApparentlynooneinUgandahasaregularcellphoneplan,butyoucanbuyminutesforyourphonefromthetiniestofstoresorevenfromstreetvendorswhileyou'restuckintraffic.$5worthofminutestookcareofmeforseveraldays,includingashortcalltoKarlaintheU.S.Theseminutesalsoincludedseveralfreetextmessages,whicharetheonlywaytoleaveamessageforsomeonesincenoonehasvoicemail.IwasnotintotextingintheU.S.,butonceIwastoldhowtofindthepunctuationmarks,Ibecameanenthusiastictexter.Ihadbeenwearingalongsleeveshirtandtietoappearappropriatelydressy,butIfeltdistinctlyoverdressedatBrightAngels',soafterthatIrevertedtothemorecomfortableattireofshort‐sleevedshirts.14.TaxisinKampalaOnSaturdayIwasfree,soAndrewofferedtoshowmearoundKampalaandhowtousethetaxis.Ataxiisa15passengervanthatservesmoreasabus,drivingonprescribedroutes.Unlikebuses,theyhavenofixedtimeschedule.Theytakeoffwhentheyfeelasiftheyhaveenoughpassengers(usuallymorethan15),andtheconductor/farecollectorcontinuestoseekmorepassengersasthetaxidrivesalong,callingoutthenameofthedestinationlikeabarkerhawkinggoodsatacountyfair.Thefareischeap;itcosts$0.75foraridefromtheguesthousetodowntownKampala.SometimesthisrequireschangingtaxisinNtinda,thetownclosesttotheguesthouse.Sometimestheconductorcollectedthefarewhenyouleftthetaxi,sometimeswhenyouhadbeenridingforawhile.Mywaitingtimeforataxifromtheguesthouseaveragedaboutnegative10seconds,sinceusuallyataxiwasgoingbyasIwalkedupthedrivewaytotheroad,anditwashappytowaitforme.Irusheduptotheroadsoasnottodelaythetaxi,butIlearnedthatthiswasveryunlikeUgandans,whostrolltowardthetaxiasifthey'rewalkingthroughamuseum,enjoyingalltheartaroundthem.Ifyouwanttogetsomeplaceinahurrywhenthestreetsarecrowded,orifyouwanttogosomewherethat'snotonataxiroute,youtakeaboda‐boda.Thisismyfavoriteword.Itisalsoamotorcycle.Yousitbehindthedriverandpraythatyouarriveunharmed.Youcanalsosay"bodabodabodaboda."C'mon,tryit!"Bodabodabodaboda."Ireadthatboda‐bodadriversarelegallyrequiredtowearahelmetandhaveonefortheirpassenger,butIsawonlyonedriverwearahelmet,andIneversawapassengerwearingone.Thefareiswhateveryouagreeoninadvance.Ittypicallycostsaboutdoublewhatataxiwouldcost,orfourtimesasmuchforthemuzunguprice.Sometimestheboda‐bodadriverwillpointoutinterestingsitesalongtheway,suchasthefieldsbelongingtotheBugandakingandthewallssurroundinghiscompound.Kampalaisanuglycitybyanymeasure,butit'sfascinatingtowanderthroughthecrowdedstreetsandseeallthepeopleandthestrangestuffforsale.It'ssodifferentfromtheU.S.thatyoucanhaveablastjustwanderingandstaring.There'slotsof

cheapstuffforsale,especiallyinasecludedsectionofshopsthatisdesignedfortourists.AndrewandIeventuallyhadlunchataTurkishrestaurantinasheltered,garden‐likesetting,andthenreturnedhome.AsAndrewpackedtoleavethefollowingdayforseveraldaysinthebush,hediscoveredthatsomemoneyhadbeenstolenoutofanenvelopeinhiscase.Whocouldhavedonethat?TheonlyotherpersonwhohadstayedintheguesthousewasLarry,whowascompletelytrustworthyandhonest.(Larryhadanapartmentintheareabutoftenstayedintheguesthousetosaveontraveltimewhentherewasroom.)IknewIwasinnocentbutsomehowfeltImustbeanobjectofsuspicion,eventhoughIrealizedthatAndrewandLarryknewIwashonest.SomehowbeingraisedinastrictCatholichomeandelementaryschoolcanmakeapersonfeelguiltyevenwhentheyhaven'tdoneanything.OnehousekeeperwhohadaccesstoourroomswasBessy,butshe,too,seemedtotallytrustworthy.AfterIhadgivenhera$5tipfordoingmylaundry,shecametomeandexpressedgratitudeforthetip,tellingmethatshehadasonwhowassick,andthemoneyhelpedtobuymedicineforherson.Shehappilyacceptedmyoffertopraywithherconcerningherson.Ididn'tknowBetty,theotherhousekeeper,quiteaswellsinceshespokelittleEnglish,butsheseemedlikeahardworking,honestyoungwoman.Perhapsaresidentofoneoftheotherhousesinthecompoundhadsnuckin.Worse,perhapssomeonefromoutsidethecompoundhadenteredtheguesthousewhennoonewaswatching.Stephen,thegentleyoungmanwhoguardedthegate,couldn'tbealert24hoursaday.Themysterywouldremainforseveraldays.Meanwhile,Larryinstructedustokeepourroomslockedwhenweweren'taround,somethingneitherAndrewnorIweredoing.Ihad,however,beenlockingmysuitcasewithmyTransportationSecurityAdministrationapprovedlock,whichIhadpurchasedafterKarlahadlostaGPSdeviceandacamerawhileherluggagewascheckedwithNorthwestAirlines.Withthislock,onlyTSAofficialscanstealstufffromyourluggage.15.ChurchandNdereDanceTroupeIwantedtoattendchurch,soLarryaskedafriendofhisnamedRacheltotakemetochurch.SheaskedmetotakeataxitotheKabilaCountryClub,whereIawaitedherwhilesittingnexttothepool.SuddenlyUgandaseemedmoreluxuriousthanithad.ThisluxuryalmostmademeforgetaboutthecockroachthathadslowlycrawledacrossmybackpackasIsatinthetaxionthewaytotheCountryClub.Thewomannexttomemadeaface,soItooktheonlycourseofactionpossibleandsquishedthecockroachwithakleenex.(ThisUgandancockroachwasnomatchforaNewYorkcockroach,whowouldhavescrambledfastenoughtobeinthethirdtaxiinfrontofusbythetimehisUgandancousinmethisfate.)Iwasn'tsurewhattodowiththesquishedcockroachinthekleenex,butthenthewomannexttomeopenedthecabwindowandseemedtowantmetothrowoutthekleenex.Thisviolatedoneofthehighestcommandmentsinmybeing:Don'tlitter!ButIdidn'tknowwhatelsetodo,soIthrewthekleenexandbugoutthewindow.Ifeltveryguilty.Istilldo.

OnceRachelarrived,wetookataxitodowntown.Fromtherewesqueezedthroughcongestedstreetsuntilwefoundaboda‐bodadrivertotakeustotheMiracleCentreCathedral(http://kayanja.org/),thelargestPentecostalchurchinKampala.Thiswasmyfirstboda‐bodaride,andIfeltasifIcouldeasilygoflyingofftheback.SoIspreadmykneesandreacheddownbetweenmylegstograbontotheseat.Unfortunately,thispushedmykneesouttowheretheymightbeamputatedbyavehicle,sowhenwewereinheavytraffic,Iclungtosomeotherpartoftheseat,figuringweweregoingslowlyenoughthatIwasunlikelytofalloff.MostUgandanssatonaboda‐bodaascasuallyasiftheywereontheirlivingroomsofa.Wearrivedlateforthe10:30service,butthatwasokaysinceitdidn'tstartuntil11:00.Finallythousandsofusthrongedintotheplasticchairs.Thepastor,RobertKayanja,wasahandsome,rivetingman.HebroughtuptothefrontaformerMoslemmanwhohadbeencrippleduntilKayanjahadrecentlyprayedoverhim.Themanwasnowapparentlyinperfecthealth.Kayanjabroughtupfamilymembersandfriendswhohadknownhimwhenhewascrippledandleteachofthemspeakforafewmoments.AllwereamazedandnowwantedtofollowJesus.Kayanja'ssermoncombinesevangelism,pentecostalism,andthegospelofprosperity.Iwassittingnearthefrontofftooneside,andatonepointinthesermonKayanjaapproachedmeandaskedmewhereIwasfrom.Isaid,"NewYork,"althoughevenmyboomingvoicemaynothavebeenaudiblethroughoutthevastauditorium.HethenusedthistoobservethatNewYorkwasthecenterofthefinancialworldaswellasthelocationoftheUnitedNations,notnecessarilybecauseofit'sideallocation,butbecauseofit'sstateofmindofprosperity.IwonderedwhathewouldhavesaidifIhadsaid"Michigan."Thenextservicewassupposedtostartat12:30,butourservicewasstillgoingstrongat1:30,whenItoldRachelIhadtoleave.IneededtogetsomethingtoeatandgetbackhomeintimetoattendtheNdereDanceperformancethatevening.Rachelwhispered,"Butthenyouwon'tbeherewhentheyintroduceyoutothecongregation.""Toobad,"Iwhisperedback.Soweleft.Rachel,too,waslaterthanshewantedtobe.Shesaidthattheservicedoesn'talwaysgothatlong.IaskedRachelaboutBennyHinn,theevangelistwhohadrecentlypreachedatMiracleCentreCathedral.Hehasreportedtohavemadeseveralpropheciesthatnevercametopass.(Seehttp://biblelight.net/tbn.htm.)TheBiblewarnsusagainstprophetswhomakefalseprophecies.(SeeEzek.13:2‐9.)Rachelrespondedthatshetriednottobenegativeorjudgmental,becausewhenshewas,shefoundthatnegativeconsequencesreturnedtoher.ShealsoobservedthatGodcouldrelentfromfulfillingaprophecy(seeJonah3),whichIacknowledged.AfterIreturnedhomeandhadlunchatTriangleTavern,LarrytookmetotheNdereCentre(http://www.ndere.com/).Thedanceshowwasscheduledtorunfrom6:00to9:00withoutintermission,andwasabargainat$5.Theyservedfoodanddrinkbeforeandduringtheshow.Iwonderedhowthedancerscouldpossiblygoforthree

hoursstraight.Theanswerwasthattheyonlydancedforaboutanhour;therestoftheeveningconsistedofachatbyanMC/comedian/purveyorofAfricanfolkwisdom.Bothheandthedancerswereveryentertaining.AnassortmentofmusiciansplayingdrumsandotherAfricaninstrumentsaccompaniedthedancers.Wesatinanoutdoortheateruntilalightraincausedustofleetotheindoortheater.Photographywasallowed,butvideotapingwasforbidden.TheyencouragedpeopletoinsteadbuytheDVD,butat$50,therewerenotmanytakers.Isawlotsofpeopletakingvideowiththeircameras,soIdiscretelytooksomevideowithmytinyFlipvideocamera.Neartheend,theMCaskedwhatcountriespeopleintheaudiencecamefrom,andthenmadecommentsonthecountry.Whenheasked,"HowmanyofyouarefromtheUnitedStates?",abunchofuscheered.Headded,"WeinUgandausedtobeyourfriends?"Huh?"Wearenolongeryourfriends."Awww..."Sinceyouvotedforyournewpresident,nowweareyourfamily."Yay!!At9:30Iwasverytired,andIhadtoleaveearlythefollowingmorning,yettheprogramwasnotover.TheMChadbeenmentioningthefinaldancefortheprevious25minutes,soIfinallytookoffwithouteverseeingthefinaldance.16.ForestHillCollegeLateSundaynightKrisarrived.ShewasanamazingandcreativeprofessorofartandwritingfromMinnesota.SheandLarryleftwithmeat7:45onMondaymorningtogotoForestHillCollege,aone‐year‐oldsecondaryschoolwayoutsideofUganda.Theschoolwasnotyetfullandtheclasseswerestillsmall.IregrettedthatKrisandLarryattendedthefirstpartofmytalkbecausenothingwentright.Ihadaquickopeningtricktowhichnooneresponded.IthendidatrickinwhichIhadeveryoneparticipateintheirseats,butnooneseemedtobeabletofollowthedirections.SomeofthestudentswereyoungerthanthoseIhadpreviouslyaddressed,whichmayexplainwhytheyseemedtohavenoclueastowhatIwassaying.DidthesestudentsknowEnglish?Neartheend,Itriedsometrickswithmoreadvancedmath,andthoseseemedtogobetter.ThiswasmyonlytalkinUgandainwhichnooneaskedanyquestions.Afterthetalk,theheadmastertookmeforatouraroundtheschool.Althoughhisschoolwasnew,hehadgreatambitions.WearingaUSBmemorystickonacordaroundhisneck,hewasamanaftermyownheart.Wewalkedtogetherdowntheroadtooneofthefastfoodplaces,whereheboughtafewroastedbananasforthetwoofus.Thisalsogavemeachancetoadmireclose‐upthedisplaysoffruit,vegetables,andmeat.Wetookataxiback,andeventuallyLarryreturnedtotakeKrisandmetoOldKampalaSecondarySchool,whereImadearrangementstogivetalksthefollowingday.17.Twoschools,oneday

InthemorningLarrytookmetoKyambogoCollegeSchool,whoseLatinmottois"Ducinaltum,"whichroughlytranslatesas"There'saduckupinthesky."Sowhatshouldyoudo?Duck!(Latinpuristsmightarguethatthemottoisbettertranslatedas"Putoutintothedepths,"fromLuke5:4.Latinpuristsaren'tmuchfun.)Larrythoughtthatmyfirsttalkwasateither8:00or9:00.SoIgavetalksat10:30and11:40,andthenhadlunch.TwomathteacherswalkedmetowhereIcouldcatchaboda‐boda,whichtookmetowhereIcouldgetacab,whichtookmetowhereIcouldcatchanotherboda‐boda,andthiscyclemighthavecontinuedforeverexceptthatthelastboda‐bodatookmetoOldKampalaSecondarySchool.IwassupposedtospeaktooneS6groupat3:30andasecondat5:00,butthesecondgroupstarteddribblinginduringmyfirsttalk,soIjustspokeuntilabout5:30,atwhichpointmyaudiencehadswelledtoover100.Thatnightattheguesthouse,theelectricitywentoutforawhile,soKrisandIhadpartofourdinnerbycandlelight.18.Newguests,oldschoolLatethatnightthreedelightfulyoungteachersfromPhiladelphianamedErin,Kim,andSusanarrivedattheguesthouse.Theyweregreatfunandsignificantlyincreasedthelevelofjovialityinthehouse.Unfortunately,theirarrivalwasimmediatelyfollowedbythedepartureofourrunningwater.Perhapsyoucanimaginefivepeopletryingtouseonebathroominthemorningwhenthereisnorunningwater.IfoundthatwhenIwokeupwithbothmybladderandthebathroomfull,anemptywaterbottlewasaman'sbestfriend.Perhapsafunnelmightbeawoman'sbestfriend.Ournewguestshadtoleaveearly,butKrisandIwereinnorush.Krishadn'tmettheneighborhoodchildrenyet,soIinvitedhertocomewithmeandplaywiththem.Thisalsogavemeanopportunitytosatisfymycuriosityaboutthe"CliniconComplicatedDiseases"nexttothehousewherethekidslived.Iwalkedinandsawvariousbottlesliningtheshelves.Ipointedtoabottleandaskedthematronwhatthismedicinewassupposedtocure."Syphilis."Ithenpointedtoanotherbottleonadifferentshelfandaskedthesamequestion."Syphilis."Ibegantodetectapattern.Thisalsoansweredmyquestionaboutwhatexactlya"complicateddisease"was.Thiswasaneasydayforme,withonetalkatKyambogoCollegeSchool.I'mnotsurewhattheydidtogetmetwodaysinarow,butitwasfine.ThefiveofusguestsaswellasLarrycrowdedontotheporchforafundinner.ItwasaboutthattimethatIlearnedwhohadstolenAndrew'smoney.SeveralitemsstolenfromtheguesthousewerefoundinthepossessionofBessy,whowaspromptlyfired.Thisrevelationflooredme,andImournedatthelovelyyoungwomanwhoseemedsosweetandsincere.19.TombsandAgaKhan

ThePhiladelphiateachershadanearlystart,butIwasabletohavealeisurelybreakfast.TheAfricanmusicfromStephen'sroomsoundedlikeHawaiianmusic.IateadeliciousmangoasIsatinthewarm,moistmorningair,andasIgazedonthebananatreesvisibleoverthewallsofourcompound,IsuddenlyfeltasifIwereinHiloontheBigIsland.NeitherKrisnorIhadanymorningbusiness,soLarrytookustotheKusubiTombs,whereseveraloftheBugandakingsareburiedinwhatisadvertisedasthelargestthatch‐roofedhouseintheworld.Sarah,ourguide,firstdirectedustovarioussmallerhutsoutside,suchasthedrumhut.Icouldgoinside,butnotKris,becausedrumsareforbiddenforwomen.LestyouthinkthatUgandaisregressiveonwomen'sissues,Sarahsolemnlyinformedusthatsomeyearsagothelawwaschangedsothatwomencouldnoweateggs,chicken,andgrasshoppers(orgrasscoppers,asshecalledthem.)Asmolderingfirewaskeptburningoutsidetokeeptheking'sspiritwarmeduporsomethinglikethat.Whenthekingdied,theydidn'tsayhedied;theysaidhedisappearedintotheforest.Sarahwarnedustakeoffourshoesandhatwhenweenteredthetomb.Insidetherewerenicewovenmatsonthefloor,abeautifulceilingwithconcentriccircles,andvariousphotosandotherparaphernalia,includingthestuffedformerpetleopardofoneofthekings.Sarahsaidwecouldsitdown,buthadtoeitherbendourlegstoonesideorputthemstraightoutinfront.Ididthelatter,butshecorrectedmebecausemylegshadtobeparalleltothealtar,ratherthanpointedatthealtar.Theytakerespectforthedeadkingsseriously.Therewasalineconsistingofstrawatthefront.Sarahinformedusthatwemustnotcrossit,orwewoulddisappearintotheforest.Iobservedthatthissoundedbetterthanrottingawaywithcancer,andbesides,thatwouldmeanthatIwoulddieinthesamewaythatthekingsdied.Sarahdidnotapproveofthisobservation,soIcontrolledmyoverwhelmingurgetocrossthelineforfearofinvokingherangerandperhapsgetthrownoutoftheplace.WelearnedmanyotherfascinatingfactsfromSarah.Ifyouwerefromacertainclan,youwerenotallowedtoeatyourclansymbol,sothat,forexample,amemberofthegrasscopperclancouldnoteatgrasscoppers.IsaidthatIwasfromthematokeclan.Shelookedpuzzledandsaidthattherewasnomatokeclan.Larry,Kris,andIthenpickedupthethreePhiladelphiansattheschoolwheretheyhadspentthemorningandtookustoanAfricanbuffetintown,afterwhichLarryandImadeaquickvisittoEvelyn,whomIhadnotyetmet.Shewasatimid,quietwoman,notatallthedynamicpresenceIexpectedfromtheUniversityProgramDirectorforTATS.Wecouldnotstaylongbecausewehada2:00meetingatAgaKhanHighSchool.ThiswasaverygoodprivateschoolwithalargernumberofIndianstudentsthanIhadseenelsewhere.Iwasgladwewereonly5minuteslate;weweremetbyanAfricanwomannamedSarah(distinctfromourguidethatmorning),whospoke

withthecrispestEnglishIheardinUganda.Sheclearlymeantbusiness,asdidthemathteachersatourmeeting,JoachimandSamuel.ThiswastheonetimeinUgandathatIwishedIwerewearingadressshirtandtiebutwasn't.TheAgaKhanstaffwasseriouslyinterestedinformingalong‐termrelationandwantedtoknowwhyarrangementsweren'tmadeformetobeintouchwiththembeforeIarrivedinUganda.TheseUgandanswererealNewYorkers,andIimmediatelyresonatedwiththemandagreed.Aftersomediscussion,Larrysaidhehadtogoandwouldbebackinabout40minutes."Justdoublethat,"IsaidtoSarah,Joachim,andSamuel.Theygrinnedwithdelight;wewereonthesamewavelength.Andmycommentwasmoreofanaccurateestimatethanajoke;IhadlearnedsomethingfromalmosttwoweeksinUganda.Wehadmorediscussion,focusingontheirconcernthattheirstudentscurrentlylearntoperformthemathematicstheyaretaught,butnothowtocreatemath.Thisisatoughproblem,butIthinkwehadaproductivediscussion.Larrycamebackafterabout80minutesandtookmeandtheothershome.OnthewaywestoppedattheShoprite(about400timesthesizeofanyotherstoreIsawinUganda)andmarveledatthestorksinoneofthetreesintheparkinglot.TheMaraboustorksofUgandaaremassivebirds,standingabout4fttall.Toseeatreefullofaboutadozenamazedus,evenifitmadenoimpressionontheUgandanswalkingby.20.BugemaandEagle'sNestOnFridaymorningwelefttheguesthousetopickupYang,aChineseeconomistnowworkingasanadjunctatNewYorkUniversity.YangwasvisitingvariousAfricancountriesforhisresearchondevelopment,andalthoughhewasinUgandaundertheauspicesofTATS,hestayedatafriend'shouseinaverynicesectionofUganda.YangandIwerebothsupposedtolectureatBugemaUniversity,aSeventhDayAdventistUniversitylocatedaboutanhournorthofKampala(http://www.bugemauniv.ac.ug/).Larrytookustothetaxipark,avastparkinglotcrammedwithtaxiswaitingtogotoalldifferentpartsofUganda.ThetaxitoBugemawasthelastoneonthefarendofthelot.Isatonabrokenseat,butthingsgotworseaswepickedupmorepassengers,untiltherewerefinally21ofusinthe15passengervan.TheroadtoBugemawasdustierthananythatIhadseen.Attimesthevisibilitywasreducedtoabout20feetbytheredcloudskickedupbyvehicles.Anyplantsbesidetheroadwerecoveredwithreddust,sothelandscaperemindedmeofphotographsoftheMartiansurface.Finallythebusstoppedinwhatseemedlikethemiddleofnowhere,butoncethedustsettled,YangandIfoundourselvesoutsidethegatesofBugemaUniversity.YangandIwentlookingfortheMathandEconomicsDepartments,thinkingthatweweresupposedtoaddresseitherfacultyorstudentsinourrespectivedepartments.Itturnedoutthatwewereaddressingthesameaudiencesequentially,agroupofabout20undergraduatebusinessmajorstakingsummerschool.(Thephrase"summerschool"wasadoptedfromtheU.S.Whenyou'reontheequator,summerdoesn'tmeanmuch.)Weweretoeachtalktothestudentsforabout30minutesand

thenanswerquestionsforabout15minutes.Iwasfirst,givingmeaboutaminutetoprepare.Fortunately,theyhadacomputerprojectionsystem,andbeingwarnedinadvancethattherewasaninteresthereinbusinessmathematics,IhadloadedontomyflashdriveahandoutillustratingthegraphicalapproachtolinearprogrammingthatIstillhadonmywebsitefromaclassIhadtaughttheprevioussemester.SupposedlythesestudentshadalreadyseenthegraphicalapproachintheirOlevelmathematics,aswellasmatrixnotationforsolvinglinearsystems,butIlearnedthatabouthalfhadnorecollectionofthis.MytalkthenbecameawhirlwindreviewofGauss‐Jordan,illustratingthefraction‐freemethodthatIprefer,followedbyanotherwhirlwindreviewofthegraphicalapproach,andfinallyabriefintroductiontowhatthesimplexmethodwasallabout.Thetalkseemedtowork.ThenYangspokeabouteconomicdevelopmentzones,whichhavebeensuccessfulinChinaandarenowbeingtestedinAfrica.Wehadaquicklunch,afterwhichItriedtoextractusasrapidlyaspossible,knowingthatIhadanothertalktogivethatafternooninKampala,althoughIdidn'tknowexactlywhen.Atabout1:20,onthetaxiridehome,IgotacallfromLarry,whosaidmytalkwasat2:00,andthathewouldbeatCityOilinKampalawaitingforme.IrepliedthatIanticipatedbeingatCityOilabout2:00,soIhopeditwasokayifmytalkstartedalittlelate.Unfortunately,thetaxitookadetourthatbypassedCityOil.Ididn'trealizewhatwashappeninguntilthedriverstoppedatacrowdedintersectionandtoldeveryonetogetoff.YangandIstoodattheintersectionoftwostreetswithoutstreetsigns,whichwascharacteristicofmoststreetsinUganda.(OneexceptionwasCol.MuammarGaddafiRoad,astreetnameyouareunlikelytofindintheU.S.Theroadledtoalargemosquelookingratherstunningonthetopofahill.)SoIcalledLarrybackanddescribedmypredicament.Hesuggestedtakingaboda‐boda.Iaskedaboda‐bodadrivertotakeustoCityOil,butheseemedtohavenoideawhatIwassayingandspokebacktomeinLuganda.IcalledLarryoncemoreandhadhimtalktotheboda‐bodadriver.EventuallyYangandIwereeachonaboda‐bodaandarrivedatCityOilabout2:20.LarrythentookustoEagle'sNestSecondarySchool,aChristianboardingschool.Itwasafter2:30bythetimewegotthere,andnoonehadanyideawhereweweresupposedtogo.EventuallysomeonefoundanS4mathclassformetoaddress.AssoonasIenteredtheroom,theteacherwashappytoleave.Afteraveryshorttalk,sinceclassesweresupposedtoendabout3:00,thestudentsstartedaskingmealotofquestions,butweeventuallyhadtostopbecausethemusicfromanassemblygoingonoutsidetheroommadetoomuchnoiseforustoheareachother.Iwenttotheassembly,whichincludedmusicfromvariousgroupsofstudents,avisitinggroupofmissionaries,andafewspeeches(suchastheonebyateacherwhoexpressedconcernthatseveralstudentswereescapingfromtheschoolwithoutauthorization).Ihadtwovisitorsduringtheassembly.Onewasaninsectabout4incheslong,andaninchandahalfwide.Itwasveryflatwithfeather‐likebacklegs.Itslowlycrawledpastme,andIsilentlybutenthusiasticallypointeditouttothehorrifiedstudentssittingbehindme.ThesecondvisitorwasamathteachernamedKenwhoexpresseddisappointment.Mytalkthatdayhadbeenscheduledfor10:00

butwasmovedto2:00becauseofmymorningtalkatBugema.Kenhadwaitedformeuntil2:30butthenleft.TheclassthatItaughtwasnotthegroupofstudentswhomIwassupposedtoteach.Iexpressedmyapologiesandexplainedwhathappened.IalsotoldhimthatIhadnothingscheduledforMondaymorning,mylastdayinUganda,soheaskedmetoaddressagroupofstudentsthen.Eventuallytheassemblywasover,andYangandIwaiteduntilLarryandtheotherscametorescueus.WepettedScooby,theschooldog(oneofveryfewdogsIsawinUganda),andthenheadedhome.Thiswasanothercrowdedride;withsevenofusinLarry'struck,twounfortunatevolunteershadtositinthebackofthetruck,wherethebumpsintheroadfeltevenworse.OrsoIsuspected;withmybadback,Inevervolunteeredforthistoughassignment.WecelebratedanotherTATSweekwithafestiveeveningattheTriangleTavern.21.BacktoJinjaOnSaturdayLarrywastakingKris,Erin,Kim,andSusantoJinjaforthesametouroftheNilethatIdidtwoweeksearlier.IhadagreedtospeakatJinjaSecondarySchool(http://jinjasecondaryschool.co.cc/),soLarrydroppedmeoffattheschoolwhiletakingtheotherstouring.Ispoketoahugegroupofenthusiasticstudents,afterwhichIhadlunchwiththeteachers.WhenLarryarrivedtobringmehome,IdraggedhimandthewomenintomeettheJinjateachers.TheteacherswereeagertomeetmoreTATSparticipants,particularlyIsaac,theintense,compellingmathteacherwhohadinvitedmehereaftermeetingmeatKyambogoCollegeSchool,wherehetaughtparttime.Thewomenweremortified,sincetheyweregrubbyanddidn'tfeeltheywereappropriatelydressedfortheoccasion.Ithink(hope)theyforgaveme.Wehadlotsoffun(andsomenotsofun)experiencestoshareontheveryslowdrivehome.22.ChaoticSundayOnSundayIwasscheduledtogotoSeetaHillCollege,whereIwasplanningtoattendchurchandthengiveatalk.LarrywastakingthewomentoMurchisonFalls,sohearrangedforawomannamedFaithtogetmetomydestination.Faithwassupposedtoarriveat10:00a.m.WhileIwaited,twooftheneighborhoodchildrenenteredthecompound,andIbegantoplaywiththem.Iledtheminasongthatinvolvedclappingandsinging,andIwasabletoteachittothemfarmorerapidlythanIhadtaughtanymathtopic.IguessI'minthewrongfield.EverytimeIthoughtofsomethingIshouldtakecareof,thekidsfollowedcloseatmyheels.Iopenedmyroomtogetsomething,andthechildrenstaredinawe.Whatseemedlikeaveryhumbledwellingtomeseemedlikeapalacetothem.Morechildrenarrived,andIeventuallyhadamobscene.IthoughtofhowJesuslovedhangingoutwithlittlechildrenandwonderedwhetherheeverfoundtheirenergyanddemandstobetoomuch.IhadahardtimeshovingthemoutthedoorbuthadestablishedpeacebythetimeFaitharrivedat10:40.Faithwasadark,

attractivewomanofabout20.IneverfullyunderstoodherconnectiontoSeetaHillCollege.Shespokewithaheavyaccent,whichimpededourcommunication.Wegotinataxiandshesaidweweregoingtoherchurch.WhataboutSeetaHill?Theyweresupposedtocallherandhadn'tdonesoyet.Iftheydid,wewouldgothere.Firstwehadtogotoherhousebecauseshewaswearingjeans,whichshesaidshecouldn'tweartochurch.Itoldherthatmychurch,theVineyardinRockvilleCentre,NY,(http://www.thevineyardchurch.com/),wasmuchlessformal,andthatyoucouldgoinyourpajamasifyouliked.Sheassuredmethiswasnotthecaseatherchurch.Wehadtoswitchtoasecondtaxi,andthentoaboda‐bodatotakeadirtpathuptothetopofahillwhereherhomewaslocated.TheviewofKampalafromFaith'shomewassplendid.Althoughherhousewasverymodest,ItoldherthatalocationwiththatviewwouldfetchahighpriceintheU.S.(butonlyiftherewasarealroadtothetop).Wehadreachedherhouseaboutnoon.Shetoldmethattheservicewentfrom12:00to6:00.Seeingmyreaction,sheassuredmethattherewasabreakmidwaythrough.Whileshechangedintoaskirt,hersistersshowedmearoundtheplace,whereImettheirpig,theircalf,andadognamedScooby.(Ibegantodetectanotherpattern.)MoretimepassedwithnosignofFaith,sohersisterNorashowedmetheentirefamilyalbumofphotographs.FinallyFaithcameoutatabout12:30,wearingthesametopbutnowwithaskirt.Iwonderedhowshehadspentthelasthalfhour.Perhapsshehadtakenashower,somethingthatI,too,haddonethatmorningsincethewaterintheguesthousehadreturnedovernight.Aswewalkedbackdownthehill,Isawthedarkeningcloudsandheardthunderinthedistanceandobservedthatitmightrain.Shesaidthatwasimpossible,nothereandnotthistimeofyear.Oncewereachedtheroad,wetookataxitoherchurch.Ididn'tnoticeanythingontheoutsidetoindicatethatitwasachurch,buttheshoutingandsingingcomingfrominsidemadethatclear.Asweentered,amanwantedtotakeourpicture.Ifiguredthattheylikedtohavepicturesofvisitors,soIaccepted.Afterthefirstcoupleofshots,theytriedtoputusinamoreromanticpose,withFaith'shandonmyshoulder.Wedeclined,sayingwewerejustfriends.Faithstartedtotakeoutsomemoneytopaythephotographer,butIobjectedandstoppedher.Idon'tknowwhatruleofUgandanetiquetteImayhaveviolated,butIfiguredthatanyoneiswelcometotakemypictureuntiltheystartcollectingmoneyforaservicethatIdon'twant.Weenteredthechurchandsatinacoupleoftheplasticchairs.Inotedwithcuriositythattheconcretefloorslopedupward,soIfeltasifmyfeetwereraised.Isoonlearnedthereasonforthisarchitecturalfeature.Avideocameraalternatedbetweenfocusingonthepersonspeakingandfocusingonthecongregation.Intheformercase,thisresultedinanidenticalbutlargerimageofthespeakerprojectedonthescreennexttowherethespeakerwasstanding.AfterIsatdown,thecamera

immediatelyfocusedonme,theonlymuzunguintheaudience.Ilookedtothesideandsawmyimageonthescreen,lookingtothesideatmyimageonthescreen,etc.Thisinfinitesequenceturnedouttobemyonlymathematicalexperiencethatday.IwasconcernedtofindthattheteachingandsingingwereinLuganda.IsangalonginEnglishonthosehymnsIrecognized.IwonderedhowSeetaHillCollegewasmanagingwithoutme.FaithassuredmethatthepastorwouldpreachinEnglish.ThisturnedouttobenotasmuchhelpasIthought,asIlearnedwhenthepastorrosetopreach.Hewasalargemanwithashavedhead,wearingwhatappearedtobepajamaswithlargepolkadots.Apparentlypajamaswereacceptableattireinthischurchafterall.Hespoketooloudlyintoamicrophonetooclosetohismouth.Hehadathickaccent,andIhadahardtimeunderstandinganythinghesaid.Compoundingtheproblem,assoonashesaidasentence,anothermanwouldtranslateitintoLuganda,shoutingevenlouderandalmostswallowingthemicrophone.Oncehecompletedhistranslation,myearswereringing,makingitevenharderformetounderstandtounderstandthepastor'snextsentence.Thepreachingandtranslationwererapidfire,withnopausetogropefortherightwordortoletthewordssinkinorformyearstorecover.Aboutthentheheavensopenedupandtorrentsofraincamedown.ThesoundonthetinceilingwouldhavebeendeafeninghadInotalreadybeendeafened.Ariverformedinthebackofthechurch,butontheslantedfloor,myseatclosetothefrontwastotallydry.Suddenlythenoiseinsidethechurchstoppedandpeoplestartingmovingaround.Faithinformedmethatthiswasthebreak.Iwouldhavemademyescaperightthenexceptfortherainstillpoundingdownoutside.Peoplesqueezedthroughnarrowcorridorsandreturnedwithplatesoffoodthatwereapparentlysoldattheback.Iusedtherestroom,whichwasaccessiblebyrunningjustashortdistancethroughtherain.BythetimeIreturned,therainwaslettingup,soIdecidedtosaygoodbyetoFaithandthechurch,whosenameIstilldon'tknow.AsIrodeataxibacktoNtinda,awomansatnexttomeholdingababy,whogazedatmewithaBuddhaface.Eventuallywearinessovercamethebaby'scuriosityashiseyesslowlyclosedandhismouthslowlyopened.IbegantofeelwearyofUganda.Theexcitementandsenseofadventurethathadsoenergizedmeovertwoweeksearlierhadwornoff.IwasgladthatIwasleavingforhomethefollowingday.InNtindaImetAndrewfordinner.AndrewwasstayingatthenewguesthouseinNtinda.Theyhadrunningwater,soIhadaskedLarryseveraldaysearlierwhytherestofuscouldn'tstayinthenewhouse,butLarryjustchuckled.Andrewtoldmethattheonlyfurniturehehadwasamattressonthefloor.Also,thewaterhadmysteriouslystoppedrunninginthebathroom,eventhoughitstillraninthekitchen.

AndrewandIhadtroublefindingaplacetoeat.Apparentlythestormhadknockedoutelectricityinvariousplaces,andmenuchoicesweremorelimitedthannormal.Oneplaceseemedpromising,andwebothorderedriceandbeans.Afterawhilethewaiterreturnedandsaidtherewasnorice.Fine,we'dhavepotatoesinsteadofrice.Therewerenopotatoes.Whatdoyouhave?Thewaitershrugged.Andrewaskedwhatthepeopleatthenexttablewereeating.Itturnedoutthehadchapaticutintostrips.SoAndrewandIhadadeliciousmealofchapatiandbeansforonly$2each.BeforeleavingNtinda,Istoppedatthegrocerystoretogetmoresnacks,sinceIhadfinishedallIhadonthewaytoandfromthechurch.Ispottedbagsofbrownedible‐lookingobjectsandaskedastoreworkerwhatthesethingswere.ShesaidtheywereDaddies."WhatexactlyareDaddies?"Shelookedatmepuzzled,thinkingshehadjustansweredmyquestion,andrepeated,"They'reDaddies."Iaskedwhethertheyweremadeofwheatornutsorwhethertheyweresweetorsalty,andshejustshrugged,soIknewIhadtobuythem.Theyarelikesmall,hard,crunchydonuts,fairlytastyandunlikelytocrumbleinmypackormymouthoranuclearexplosion.Backattheguesthouse,Iwasaloneandworkedonpacking.23.ThelastdayItookataxiandthenaboda‐bodatoEagle'sNestSecondarySchooltotalkfrom9:20until10:40.ThestudentswereverysweetandaskedmewhenIwouldreturn.IsaidIdidn'tknow.Istilldon't.IneversawKen.IcalledhimandthensenthimatextmessagesayingthatIhadgivenmytalk,butIneverheardbackfromhim.WhileIwasonthetaxiridehome,Faithcalledmetotellmethatshehadthepicturesfromthechurch.Itoldhertokeepthem.IhadalreadytakenaphotoofFaithinfrontofherhouse.IhadatastylunchatasmallrestaurantneartheguesthousethatIhadn'ttrieduntilthen.AsIwalkedhome,Itookaphotoofoneofthefive‐foot‐highanthillsfoundinmostfieldsinUganda.Ithoughtantsaroundmyhomewereindustrious,buttheantsinLongBeach,NewYorkareslackersnexttotheirUgandancousins.Ifinishedpacking,tookanap,andreadwhilewaitingforLarrytoreturntotakemetotheairport.IspokewithStephen,towhomAndrewhaddonatedhisoldboots.Stephensaidhedidn'thaveanysockstowearwiththeboots,soIgavehimapairofmysocks,warninghimtowashthemfirstsinceallmyclothesweredirtybythen.Miriamwantedmytotebagfromthe2008JointMathematicsMeetinginSanDiego.Ihaddespairedofevergettingitcleanagain,soIgladlypartedwithit.AtlastLarryreturnedfromMurchisonFallswiththewomen,whohadgreattalestotellofbeingcoldandwetafterthestormhittheircamp.Aftersayingmygoodbyes,I

hoppedinLarry'struckfortheridetotheairport.Trafficwashorrendous,butwemadeittoEntebbeintime.MyplanetookoffintothedarknightandIfellasleep.24.CostOneofmyfirstquestionswhenIreachedUgandawashowTATSwasfinanced.Theanswerwasthroughteachersandothertouristswhousetheirservices.Thisexplainedwhythingsseemedtooexpensive.$200aweekfeltlikealotforasmallroomwithnoscreensinthewindows,sharingabathroomwithfourotherpeople,andsometimeshavingnorunningwater.ThisfigurebecamemorereasonablewhenIrealizedthatmyfeesandthoseofotherspaidforLarry,forEvelyn,andforallthehousekeepers.Asanotherexample,Ipaid$300toTATSforthetwodaytriptoMurchison.Mymealswereextra.IlaterlearnedthattheRedChiliCampoffersathreedaytrip,includingallmealsandtransportationtoandfromKampala,foronly$240.Seehttp://www.redchillihideaway.com/murchisontrip.htmClearlywewerepayingapremiumbygoingthroughTATS.IsavedmoneyalmostaccidentallyonmyraftingtripbymakingthearrangementswithNREratherthanhavingLarrytakemetoJinja.Ontheotherhand,IneverwouldhavegonetoUgandahaditnotbeenforTATS.ItwasthroughTATSmakingthearrangementsthatIwasabletospeakattheseschoolsandmeetallthesewonderfulpeople.Someonemightwonderwhyanyonewouldpaytowork;aren'tyousupposedtogetpaidwhenyouwork?Butasamathematician,Ican'talwaystellwhenI'mworkingandwhenI'mjusthavingfun.Ididn'thavetowritetestsordogradinginUganda,whicharethehardpartofteaching.IjusttalkedaboutstuffthatIfoundinteresting.IhadaterrifictimeinUgandaatalowercostthanifIhadgonetherestrictlyasatourist,andaslongasI'mearningenoughmoneytopaythebills,Iwasn'tgoingtoworryaboutthefinancesofthistrip.Ithinkthisattitudeisnecessaryifyouwanttoenjoysuchanexperience.25.ItemsIwishedIhadbrought‐‐Mysolarshower,whichIhadboughtyearsagoforbackpacking.IhadbeenalertedthattherewasnorunningwaterinJanuary,butEvelynassuredmethatthishadbeenfixedandthatIwouldhaverunningwater.‐‐Asmallbottleofsoapforhandlaundry.Iwastoldthatoneofthehousekeeperscoulddomylaundry.Ididn'trealizethatnowasherordryerwereanywherenearby,andthatalllaundrywaswashedbyhandandhunguptodry.Itwassometimesfastertojustdoitmyself.Fortunately,Krishadbroughtsomesoapthatshelentme.‐‐Anotherpairoflightweighthikingpants,convertibletoshorts.ThiswayI'dhaveshortstowearwhilemyonepairwasstillhangingouttodry.

‐‐Mefloquine.Ratherthantakethisweeklyantimalarialmedicine,whichsometimeprovokesmoodswingsandnightmaresandothersideeffects,ItookMalarone,whichisusuallyconsideredsaferbutmustbetakendaily.Andrew,however,gotprescriptionsforboth.Sincemefloquinemustbestartedacoupleofweeksbeforedeparture,comparedwithtwodaysforMalarone,hefiguredhecouldswitchtoMalaroneifheexperiencedbadsideeffectsfrommefloquine.AllthatAndrewexperiencedwasvividdreams.Hey,Ilovevividdreams!Ioccasionallytakegalantaminetoprovokevividdreamsandinduceluciddreaming,andhereitisasafreebiefromantimalarialmedication.NexttimeI'lltryAndrew'splan.‐‐Flipflops.Iwasfortunatetofindapairattheguesthousethatnoonewasusing,sincetheseareperfectforwanderingaroundtheguesthouseorthesurroundingproperty.‐‐Morebusinesscards.IbroughtwhatIthoughtwasenoughofmyHofstraUniversitybusinesscardstogivetopeopleIwouldmeet.OnceIstartedgivingthemouttoschoolkids,however,theywentveryfast.Thekidslovetogetbusinesscards,whichareinexpensivemementos.26.ItemsIbroughtthatIshouldhaveleftathome‐‐Asportscoat.IhadheardthatUgandanmendressedsomewhatformallyandthatthiswouldbeexpectedofaguestspeaker.Infact,itwastoowarmforasportscoat,andIsawonlyafewmenwearingone.Theywerehavingtroubleallfittingintoitatonce.‐‐Overheadtransparencies.Thetransparenciesfora45minutetalkweighmorethanatwo‐monthsupplyofKashibars,whichwouldhavebeenmoreuseful,sinceKashibarsareasimpossibletofindinUgandaasanoverheadprojector.‐‐Waterpurifier.IbroughtitincaseIhadtroublegettingcleanwatertodrink.Withastorejusta10minutewalkfromtheguesthouse,thiswasnotanissue.IlentAndrewmypurifierwhenhewentintothebushforseveraldays,buthedecidedtousepurificationpillsinstead,sinceweheardthatthereissomethinginthewater(eithercrocodilesorhippos)thatmyultravioletpurifierwouldnotkill.‐‐Insectrepellant.Maybeasmallquantityisworthtaking,butItookamediumsizedbottleofDEET‐basedrepellantandanotherofcitronella‐based,andIneverusedeither.Therearen'tmanybugsinanypartofUgandaIvisited,atleastduringthedryseason.‐‐LightweightGortexhikingboots.Ineverworethemthewholetime.Inthedryseason,apairofsneakerswouldbemorepractical.IthoughttheywouldbeusefulatMurchison,butitwassowarmthatIworemyTevasthewholetime.

27.ConclusionThereweretimeswhenIwasalmostgiddywithhappinessinUganda.HereIwasinanexoticplace,meetingwonderfulpeople,witheachdayanadventure.Itdidn'tmatterthatthedaydidn'talwaysturnedoutthewayitwasplanned.Anyhitchesthatoccurredweren'tmyfault,soImightaswellgowiththeflowandenjoytheexperience.IfeelthatIhavemorejoyandwisdombecauseofthistrip.Itnowseemslikeadream,butitwaswellworthdreaming.