Tailoring

History of Tailoring: Reconstructing the human body in fabric

• Greek & Roman ages people draped fabric over their bodies

• Middle ages: clothing was a means to conceal the body– Loose robe was shortened and

tightened & eventually cut pieced and sewn together to contour to human form

– Birth of tailoring

• Renaissance: clothing a means to accent the body

• Tailoring grew among the aristocrats of Europe and peaked during Louis XIV (1643-1715)

History of Tailoring Cont…

• In the 18th century English moved away from French style (highly decorated) to a more practical style– Somber & serious style– Distinctions between royalty

and commoners disappeared by 19th century

– Modern Tailoring born in the Industrial revolution that emphasized practicality, functionality, and fit

• Today there is still a need for unique and individually designed clothing

Definition of Tailoring

• A process by which the garment design lines are defined and the garment is given a permanent shape and structure of its own.

• Design lines such as collars and lapels are defined by sharp edges and all the lines within the garment should be smoothly curved or perfectly straight.

Types of Tailoring

• Traditional- hand sewing

• Contemporary- techniques that incorporate new materials like fusibles or replacement of hand stitching with machine stitching.

• Custom Tailoring- making a garment for a specific individual

Types of Tailored Garments

• Hard Tailored Garment: – Stiff fabric– Very crisp– Formed details– Built in shaping

• Soft Tailored Garments: – Soft fabrics– Subtle shaping– Not as rigid– Details are crisp– More feminine

Tailoring Concepts

1. Compatibility• Design with wearer• Money with time• Garment with ability

2. Fitting: all patterns need adjusting to your size3. Stabilizing: keeping fabric from stretching and changing

shape. 1. Underlining- sewn as one with fabric2. Interfacing-stabilizes3. Cotton tape- stabilizes seams4. Interlining- for warmth. Fabric is placed between lining and outside like

batting.5. Lining- allows garments to be put on easier

4. Shaping patterns into 3-D: shaping is cutting fabric putting two pieces together and steaming & pressing them.

Tailoring Concepts Cont…

5. Reducing Bulk• Trimming: cutting a seam at the same width- trimming both

seam allowances together• Beveling edges: cutting the seam allowances inside faced

edges by angling the shears; this rounds the seam edges• Clipping: the process of slitting seam allowances up to the

seam on curves. Better than notches because notches weaken the seam.

• Grading: cutting the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk

• Pressing & steaming: putting pressure and steam on fabric with an iron to form a sharp edge or flat seam

• Pounding: used for shaping wool• Under stitching: a row of stitching placed close to the edge of

any facing; done before grading and beveling• Top stitching: stitching on the right side of the fabric in rows of

decorative stitching

Garment Life Expectancy

• Swimsuits 2 years• Wool Blazer 4 years• Underwear 1 year• Cotton Suits 2 years• Uniforms 1 year• Dresses 5 years• High fashion evening

wear 3 years or less

Price vs. Perceived Quality

• Price greater than perceived quality (overpriced)• Price less than perceived quality (under priced)

• Coat worn 50 times $4 per wear

$200(price)• Dress worn 3 times $50 per wear

$150 (price)• Jeans worn 300 times $.17 per wear

$50 (price)

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