Table Saw Basic Cuts

Sawing-crosscutting (cuttingperpendicular to or "across" thewood grain), ripping (cuttingparallel to or "with" the grain),making miter joints and otherjoinery cuts--is the most common,most necessary woodworkingoperation. You'll spend most ofyour operating time on the Mark Vsawing. For this reason, we havedevoted four chapters of this bookto the use of the Mark V in thetable saw mode.

There are six basic saw cuts:crosscut, rip, miter, cross bevel, ripbevel, and compound miter (Figure2-1). All other cuts, no matter howintricate, are combinations of thesebasic cuts. It is essential, therefore,to master the basic cuts in order touse the table saw to its fullestcapabilities. In this chapter, weconcern ourselves primarily withcrosscutting and ripping.

It is interesting to note thatperhaps ninety percent of all opera-tions on the table saw are rippingand crosscutting. It should also benoted that the table saw should notbe used in through--sawing opera-tions without the saw guard inplace. Warning: Always use sawguards and safety devices as recom-mended.

TABLE SAW MODE- SETUPAND FEATURES

Use the accessories shown inFigure 2-2 for sawing operations.To set up your Mark V in the tablesaw mode, follow the instructionsin the Owners Manual that camewith your machine.

As you work in the sawingmode, you'll find that the Mark V isan extremely capable table saw withseveral special features:

Figure 2-1. The six basic cuts: (A) crosscut, (B) rip, (C) miter, (D) cross bevel, (E)ripbevel, and (F) compound miter.

Figure 2-2. The accessories that are used for table sawing operations are the (A)worktable, (B) extension table, (C) rip fence, (0) upper saw guard, (E) lower saw guard,(F) miter gauge, and (G) saw blade. The Model 510 with the extension table system isshown.

• In the sawing mode, the Mark Vhas 3-1/4" depth of cut at "0."With the table tilted at 45°, themaximum depth of cut is 2-3/8".

• The table tilts up to 45° right, andthe miter gauge can be angled afull 60° in either direction (from90° to 30° right or left). Both thetable and the miter gauge haveauto-stops to help you adjust the

tilt or the angle quickly to "0",45°, or 90°.

• The miter gauge has a safety gripto give you better control overthe workpiece.

• The speed is variable, enablingyou to get a better cut in manydifferent types of wood, us-ing avariety of blades.

• When properly aligned, the rip

fence automatically squares itselfwith the main spindle-parallel tothe saw blade.

• The extension table can bemounted in either the base mountor the power mount to give youextra support where you need it.

• The quill feed can be used tomake fine adjustments in theposition of the saw blade-makingit easier to be accurate.

• The dust chute on the lower sawguard can be connected to a dustcollection system to help youcollect sawdust and wood chips.

SAW BLADESThere are several types of saw

blades available for the table saw.Each of them are ground and/or setto accomplish specific wood-working operations. The followingare the most common blades andwhat they do:

All-Purpose Blade--This blade(Figure 2-3) is the sawing work-horse of most woodworking shops.The deep gullets between the teethprovide plenty of room for wasteremoval on ripping operations andthe sharp tooth points do a reason-ably good job when crosscutting.An all-purpose blade enables you tostart with basic operations likecrosscutting, ripping, and mitering,but it is not the only blade you canuse. You'll get better results onparticular types of sawing whenyou use a blade that was speciallydesigned for the work you aredoing.

Crosscut Blade--A crosscutblade has many small teeth groundwith alternating top bevels, sharppoints and shallow gullets (Figure2-4). The teeth cut cleanly acrosswood fibers, and since the wastethat is produced is a fine sawdust,the blade functions efficiently withshallow gullets. However, small

teeth and shallow gullets can causethe blade to "choke" if you try toforce the cut. Here, even more thanwith other blade designs, feedpressure should be slow and steady-only enough so the teeth will cut asthey were designed to cut.

The crosscut blade does arespectable job on miter cuts, maybe used on plywood, but shouldnever be used for ripping.

Ripping Blade--A rippingblade (Figure 2-5) has large teethground with a square chisel tooth,large gullets and is designed forsawing with the grain of the wood.There is considerable support metalto back up the cutting edges, andgenerous gullets catch and dis-persethe sawdust.

Because it has a special design,the ripping blade should never beused for general sawing.

Hollow-Ground Blade--Ahollow-ground blade (Figure 2-6),or "planer blade" as it is sometimescalled, produces a cut nearly assmooth as a planed edge. Mostblades have set teeth; that is,alternate teeth are bent a bit inopposite directions This forms akert that is wider than the bladethickness so the blade has clearancein the cut. The hollow-ground bladeis reduced in thickness from thepoints of its teeth to the full-gaugecenter area that is indicated by thearrow in the photograph. Since thisdesign, rather than set teeth, gives itclearance in the cut, it producessmoother cuts than other blades.The blade can function withoutbinding or burning itself or thewood by using it with the correctprojection.

In a strict sense, it is a combina-tion blade, but it is not one to leaveon the machine for general sizingcuts. It does fine on plywood, butmay not be tempered to stay sharp

for an extended period of timeunder the abrasive action of theplywood glue. Additional uses forthe hollow-ground blade includesmooth crosscuts or miter cuts,trimming moldings, and otheradvanced cutting techniques.

Plywood Blade--A plywoodblade has many small teeth and verylittle set (Figure 2-7). This bladetrims and cuts plywood and otherlaminates. Because of the verysmall teeth, it produces a smoothcut and also reduces splinteringalong the kerf. The plywood bladecan also be used for crosscuttingsoft woods, preferably finish cutsonly. General use will dull the teethquickly, as will certain types ofplywood cores (particle and fibre).For cutting particle or fibre coreplywood and other sheet stock, itwould be better to use a carbide-tipped blade.

Carbide-Tipped Blade--Carbide-tipped blades (Figure 2-8)are more expensive than conven-tional blades; but, since they staysharp for much longer periods oftime, they can prove to be moreeconomical in the long run. Theyare high-quality saw blades spe-cially designed for splinter-freeresults in hardwoods, softwoods,and materials like hardboard andplywood, whether you are cross-cutting, ripping, or mitering.

Carbide is a tough material, butit is also brittle. Be careful whenhandling such blades; store them sothey can't contact another blade orobject. Never use a car-bide bladeto saw second-hand lumber thatcould contain nails.

Cutting Tips--With any tablesaw blade, remember that the teethabove the table's surface rotate inthe direction of the operator andenter the top surface of theworkpiece first; therefore, place the

Figure 2-3. An all-purpose blade can be used for crosscut-ting, ripping, and mitering. It is a good "sizing" blade, butit will not cut as smoothly as some other special blades.

Figure 2-4. A crosscut blade has many small teeth thatcleanly cut wood fibers. The blade does a fair job on mitercuts and sawing plywood. It should never be used forripping.

Figure 2-5. Each tooth of the ripping blade works like atiny chisel to chip out its own bit of wood. Deep gulletscollect and spew out the heavy waste. This blade shouldnever be used for general-purpose sawing.

Figure 2-6. A hollow-ground blade does not have setteeth. Kerf clearance is provided by gauge reduction fromthe tips of the teeth to the center core that is indicated bythe arrow. The blade requires more projection than otherdesigns.

Figure 2-7. A plywood blade has many small teeth andve,y little set. It is used for trimming and cutting plywoodand laminates, and for finish crosscuts in soft woods. Itproduces a smooth and near splinter-free cut.

Figure 2-8. Carbide-tipped saw blades are smooth cuttersused for many operations and different materials: (A)combination, (B) crosscut, and (C) rip.

wood with the finished side up-ward. This applies to plain ply-wood, veneers, and any form ofplywood with laminates attached.When both sides of the wood arefinished, use a fine-tooth blade withminimum set or a hollow-groundblade. Also keep in mind that thekerf is the slot formed by the blade.Its width will differ depending onthe style, the gauge, and the amountof set on the teeth of the blade. Thekerf should always be on the wasteside of the cutline.

Saw Blade MaintenanceAny saw blade will work more

efficiently when it is clean and freeof deposits that sawing wood canleave. Don't remove deposits byworking with a sharp instrument

like a knife. Some woodworkersuse a commercial pitch remover orwork on the tooth areas with asolvent and old toothbrush. An easymethod to try is simply to soak theentire blade in warm water anddetergent. Wipe the blade with acloth while it is in the soapy water,rinse, then thoroughly dry it. Applya very light film of paste wax andbuff.

Sharp blades are, of course, amust. They cut more efficiently andare safer to use since the operatordoesn't have to utilize excessiveforce to feed the stock-a situationthat could cause hands to slip.

Some woodworkers sharpentheir own blades, but it isn't recom-mended. A less than perfect job willdo more harm than good and caneven ruin the blade. The cost ofsharpening is small, and theprofessional's experience andspecial equipment will ensure thatthe blade will be returned in like-new condition.

Storing BladesThe simplest way to store

blades is to place them on hooksthat are spaced so the blades won'ttouch each other. This, however,requires much space. To minimizespace requirements, use a hooklong enough to hold several blades,and use heavy cardboard or someother soft material as spacersbetween the blades.

A blade storage case like theone shown in Figure 2-9 will holdsix blades and, when fitted with ahandle, will serve as a tote for a fullassortment of blades. Layers of 1/4" plywood (Figure 2-10), somesolid and some with a semi-circularcutout, are laminated to make upthe storage area. You can providefor more blades by adding moreplywood layers, but you must

Figure 2-9. A specialstorage casewill protect your saw blades. Adda handle and you'll have a tote forcariying blades.

Figure 2-10. Construction details of a saw blade storage case. You can widen it formore blades by adding layers of plywood to create more slots.

adjust the dimensions of the hingedcover if you do. To hold the bladessteady and keep them from movingabout, cement a piece of thick foamrubber to the underside of thecover's top piece.

SPECIAL TABLE INSERTSThere are times when you can

substitute a special insert for stan-dard equipment. The purpose of aspecial insert is to minimize theclearance around a cutting tool. Aspecial insert is necessary, forexample, when cutting pieces ofwood so thin that the saw bladepulls them down beneath the table.

Special inserts, like thoseshown in Figure 2-11, are easilymade from 1/4" hardboard by usinga standard insert as a pattern forshape and hole location. Once thespecial insert is made, raise thetable to its highest position andinstall the insert (Figure 2-12). Tocut the slot in the insert, turn on themachine, set the speed dial to theproper speed, and very slowlylower the table over the blade(Figure 2-13). Each time you usethe insert you must align the slotexactly with the blade.

TABLE SAW SAFETYWarning: Before using the

table saw, read and understandthese important safety instruc-tions:

Danger Zone--The dangerzone on the Mark V in the sawingmode extends 3" on all sides of theblade, 2' in back of the blade, and 8'in front of the blade. The reason forthe extended danger zone in frontof the blade is that a saw blade cankick a board back. The blade mayalso kick a board forward, but notas hard as backward.

Safety Rules for Table Saws--Here are some safety rules for

operating the table saw:• Always wear proper eye and ear

protection.• Always keep your hands, fingers,

and other parts of your body outof the danger zone.

• Use push sticks, push blocks andother safety devices to help guideand control workpieces.

• Never operate the table sawwithout the upper and lower sawguards in place. The one excep-tion to this rule is when you sawpart way through a board-cuttinga dado, groove or rabbet-thenyou must remove the upper sawguard. Whenever you remove theupper saw guard, keep the lowersaw guard in place and work withextreme caution. Use safetydevices to move the stock pastthe blade.

• Never stand directly in front ofor in back of the blade; alwaysstand to one side or the other.

• Make all adjustments with theblade stopped, with the oneexception of changing the speed.Never try to change the configu-ration of the table or the powerplant before the machine hasstopped.

• Let the blade get up to full speedbefore cutting.

Figure 2-11. Special table inserts can be made of 1/4" hardboard: (A)Model 510 and (B) Model 500. Use a standard insert as a pattern for theshape and hole locations.

Figure 2-12. Special inserts installinto the table just like standard ones.

Figure 2-13. To make the slot in theinsert, slowly lower the table as themachine is running. Note: The sawguard is removed for clarity.

• Always cut against the rotationof the blade. This keeps the bladefrom grabbing the wood out ofyour hands.

• Use the miter gauge or rip fenceto guide your work. Free-handcuts are extremely dangerous,inaccurate and not recommended.

• Make a five-point check: all fivelocks-power plant, carriage, tableheight, table tilt and quill-shouldbe secure.

• Never reach under the table totighten the locks, remove scrapor make adjustments while thesaw is running.

• Never reach over the blade whileIt's running, even with the upperguard in place.

• Do not rip large sheets of ply-wood or similar materials byyourself. Get at least one helper.

• Always use the proper tableinsert for the operation.

• Turn off the power and let themachine come to a full stopbefore you remove workpieces orclear scraps away from the blade.

Saw Guards--The Mark V isequipped with saw guards toprovide a physical barrier betweenyou and the moving blade, nomatter what height or angle youadjust the worktable.

These saw guards have severalother safety features. The lowersaw guard has a dust chute thatallows you to attach a dust collec-tion system so you can collect thewaste while you're sawing. Theupper saw guard is clear so you cansee the cutline. There's a removableplastic insert in front of the blade tocatch wood pitch. This can beeasily cleaned to keep your line ofsight clear.

The upper saw guard on theModel 500 is mounted on a splitterthat keeps the saw kerf from clos-ing and binding the blade. On thissplitter there are two anti-kickbackpawls that help keep the blade fromkicking the stock back toward you.

The upper saw guard on theModel 510 has a riving knife that ispositioned 1/8" from the bladeregardless of stock thickness. Theriving knife has anti-kickback camsthat help capture the stock in theevent of a kickback.

Avoiding Kickback--If, for anyreason, the saw blade should bind inthe workpiece, it can kick the stockback toward the operator withgreat force and speed. Also, if anypiece of scrap (or other object) isleft on the table and slides into the

moving blade, it can be thrown withconsiderable force. Actually, kick-back is one of the greatest hazardsin running a table saw. Some of thecommon causes of kickback in-clude:

Failing to use the upper sawguard and safety devices.

Crosscutting against the ripfence without using a spacer.

Using a dull or dirty blade or ablade with insufficient set.

Cutting freehand or rippingbadly warped wood.

Dropping pieces of stock on anunguarded saw blade.

Letting go of material before itis past the saw blade.

Ripping stock with loose orlarge, unsound knots.

Cutting wet or improperlyseasoned wood.

BLADE PROJECTIONBlade projection (Figure 2-14)

refers to the amount of blade that isvisible above the workpiece. Exceptin the case of hollow-groundblades, which are set slightly higher,keep the projection within 1/4"and3/8".

The upper guard has a depth-of-cut scale so it is easy to adjustthe projection of the blade. Justlower the guard over the blade andthen adjust the table height. Forexample, if you are sawing 3/4"stock and want a 1/4" projection,adjust the table height until the tipof the blade aligns with the 1" markon the guard.

Another way to set bladeprojection is to use a step gaugelike the one shown in Figure 2-15.A gauge you can make by laminat-ing 1/8" pieces of hardboard isshown in Figure 2-16.

Both the scale on the saw guardand a height gauge can be used toset the projection of saw blades and

Figure 2-14. Before beginning a table saw operation, adjust the tableheight so the blade protrudes 1/4" to 3/8" above the stock, as shown.

Figure 2-15. Use a step gauge to setblade projection.

other cutters like the dado acces-sory.

TABLE SAW SPEEDSBefore you begin any table saw

operation, set the Mark V to run atthe correct speed. To do this: turnthe machine on, turn the speed dialto the correct speed and let the sawcome up to speed. Caution: Neverturn the speed dial when the MarkV is stopped. You could damage thespeed changing mechanism. Al-ways turn the speed to "Slow"before turning off the machine.

The correct speed is determinedby the operation you're about toperform and the type of materialyou're sawing. Generally, you canuse faster speeds in softer woods.Faster speeds will also give you asmoother cut. Slower speeds givethe machine more torque to getthrough hard, dense woods.

To determine the right speed forthe job, refer to Table 2-1. A goodrule of thumb is: The deeper the cutor the harder the wood, the slowerthe speed. But if the blade turns tooslowly, you may get a rough,splintery cut.

CROSSCUTTINGCrosscutting, cutting a board

perpendicular to or across thegrain, is one of the most commonwood-working operations. It's alsoknown as a "cutoff" operation, orcutting a board to length.

Basic Crosscutting TechniquesTo make a crosscut, first mount

the proper saw blade. Make sureboth the upper and lower sawguards are in place and that thesplitter on Model 500 or the rivingknife on the Model 510 is directlyin line with the saw blade.

Adjust the table height so thatthe saw blade will protrude about 1/4" above the stock. When the table

height is properly adjusted, make afive-point check. All five locks--power plant, carriage, table height,table tilt, and quill--should besecure.

Check that the miter gauge issquare to the blade, and adjust thesafety grip to the thickness of the

stock. Warning: Always use themiter gauge to guide the stock asyou saw it.

Decide on which side--right orleft--of the blade is the most com-fortable for you to stand when yousaw. Warning: Do not standdirectly in line with the blade.

Figure 2-16. Construction details of a homemade height gauge.

Figure 2-17. Mark the stock where you want to cut it, using a square and a sharppencil. An "X" will help you remember which is the waste side of the stock.

Table 2-1: Table Saw Speed Chart

Operation Hardwood Softwood

General Sawing R (3500 RPM) R (3500RPM)Heavy Sawing O (2800 RPM) P (3000 RPM)Trim Cuts S (3800 RPM) S (3800 RPM)

Note: These speeds are for 60 hz. operations.

Place the miter gauge in the sloton the same side of the blade thatyou're standing.

Mark the stock where you wantto cut it, using a square and a sharppencil (Figure 2-17). Rememberthat the saw usually makes a 1/8"kerf as it cuts. If you cut straightdown in the middle of your line,your stock will be 1/16" short.Instead, cut on the outside of theline.

Squeeze the safety grip toclamp the stock in the miter gauge.Push the stock forward until ittouches the saw teeth so that youcan see if the cutline is properlyaligned with the blade.

Pull the stock away from theblade. Turn on the Mark V, turn thespeed dial to the proper speed, andlet the machine come up to speed.

Then carefully guide the stock pastthe blade. Use your free hand tohelp support the stock and keep itflat against the face of the mitergauge (Figure 2-18).

When crosscutting narrowstock or cutting off a thin piece, usea special insert (Figure 2-11) ormove the blade close to the tablesaw insert on the side of the bladewhere the stock is being cut. Thiswill help keep small pieces of stockfrom falling through the insert.

Don't feed the stock any fasterthan the blade will cut. If themachine bogs down, slow your feedrate and let the saw get back up torunning speed. Warning: Never useyour free hand to push against thefree end of the stock. This binds theblade and can result in a dan-gerouskickback.

Use your free hand for addi-tional support only. After the cut iscomplete, turn the speed dial to"Slow" and turn off the machine.Warning: Never pick up a cutoffwhile the blade is still running. Yourhand holding the miter gauge couldslip Into the blade; your free handmight nudge the cutoff into theblade, causing a kickback; or theaction of the blade on the cutoffmight pull your free hand into theblade. It takes only a few secondsfor the blade to stop after theswitch has been turned off.

Crosscutting Long BoardsChances are that when you start

cutting boards to length, you'll startout with boards 8' long or longer.Crosscutting a long board can beawkward on a table saw, but hereare a few simple techniques to helpmake this task easier.

If possible, don't start by cut-ting. little pieces off the end of thelong board. This is hard to doaccurately. Instead, start cuttinglong boards in the middle. This getsthem down to a manageable lengthquickly.

Use an extension table mountedin either the power mount or thebase mount-whichever end of theboard needs the most support. Ifyou crosscut a lot of long boards,you will want to invest in a secondextension table so that you cansupport the stock at both ends. The

Figure 2-18. Use your free hand to help support the board and keep it flatagainst the miter gauge.

Figure 2-19. When crosscutting long stock on the Model 510, use theextension table system.

Figure 2-20. The standard miter gaugeextension provides extra support whencrosscutting.

Model 510 has the extension tablesystem that provides additionalsupport for cross-cutting operations(Figure 2-19).

A miter gauge extension willalso provide extra work supportbecause it increases the surface areaof the miter gauge. Actually, it'sgood practice to use an extensionon all crosscut work, especially ifthe workpiece is long.

The extension that is availablefor the Mark V, shown mounted inFigure 2-20, comes with attachmenthardware and is easily mountedbecause of the pair of slots that arepart of the miter gauge design. Theposition of the extension can bereversed so it can be placed in themiter gauge for use on either sideof the saw blade.

It's a good idea to have severalextensions on hand, each one for aspecific purpose. Should you wishto make your own, the standardextension can be used as a patternor use the dimensions and holelocations in Figure 2-21.

Figure 2-22 shows an adjustablemiter gauge extension that is idealfor crosscutting and mitering. Use arouter to form the 1/4" slot thatpositions the extension on the mitergauge. In the same way, form a 5/8"wide counterbored slot centered onthe 1/4" slot to accept the twocarriage bolt heads. Glue finesandpaper to the face, as mentionedlater, for more holding power.

Miter gauge extensions do nothave to be a specific length. Whencrosscutting extra-long pieces, theextension can span across the tableand beyond it (Figure 2-23). Whennecessary, the extension can rest onthe extension table. When you use along extension, the saw blade willcut through it. This will not harmthe extension, and the kerf that isformed can be used as a guide. Thecut line can be marked on the stockwith a square and then aligned withthe kerf in the extension. Thus youknow beforehand the line that thesaw blade will follow. When youmark the stock, be sure to place thehead of the square against the edgethat will bear against the extension.Check the miter gauge adjustmentif the kerf doesn't follow the line.You can use the miter gauge safetygrip with an extension.

Many woodworkers faceextensions with fine sandpaper toprovide a high-friction surface thatis an aid on all operations, butespecially useful when the mitergauge is adjusted for an angularcut. The sandpaper helps to keepthe workpiece from moving ordrifting when cutting miters. The

Figure 2-21. Dimensions and holelocations for a homemade miter gaugeextension.

Figure 2-22. Construction details of an adjustable miter gauge extension.

Figure 2-23. Use a long miter gauge extension when crosscutting long stock.

sandpaper may be applied to theextension with rubber cement.

Crosscutting to LengthExcept for squaring off the end

of a board, crosscutting is usuallydone to cut a piece, or severalpieces, to an exact length. Whenyou need only one piece, the sim-plest method is to cut to a line thatyou have marked with a square.You can visually align the mark onthe workpiece with the saw bladeor YOU can use a miter gaugeextension that has a kerf through it(Figure 2-24).

Other methods should be usedwhen you need more than one pieceof the same length. One method isto work with the miter gauge stop

rod (Figure 2-25). By adjusting thetwo rods, any number of pieces canbe cut to any length up to 18". Thestop rod can be used at either sideof the miter gauge, which allows itto be used whether the miter gaugeis on the left or right side of theblade. For short pieces, up to 8"long, secure the short rod in themiter gauge and use the long rod asan adjustable stop. For longerworkpieces, up to 18", secure thelong rod in the miter gauge and usethe short rod as an adjustable stop.

Adjust the stop rod for thelength you require (Figure 2-26) bymeasuring between the end of therod and the blade. If the blade hasset teeth, be sure to measure fromthe tip of a tooth that points toward

the rod. Once the setting is made,any number of pieces can be sawnto the same length by butting theend of the workpiece against thestop rod and making the pass.Warning: Do not position themiter gauge stop rod so that itcrosses in front of the blade.

A miter gauge extension thatyou make yourself can be used forcutting duplicate pieces (Figure 2-27). The extension, which can beused whether the miter gauge is onthe left or right side of the sawblade, will allow cutting of dupli-cate pieces as long as 24". To useit, measure between the sliding stopand the saw blade and then do thesawing. Construction details of theextension are shown in Figure 2-28.

Figure 2-24. The kerf in a miter gauge extension can be usedas a guide when crosscutting to length.

Figure 2-25. The miter gauge stop rod can be used togauge the length of long or short workpieces dependir onwhich rod is secured in the miter qauge.

Figure 2-26. To adjust the miter gauge stop rod for length of cut,measure between the rod and blade. If the blade has set teeth,measure from the tip of a tooth that points toward the rod.

Figure 2-27. The miter gauge extension has a sliding stop soit can be used to gauge the length of one or more workpieces.Notice how the extension table provides extra support.

When you make the stop, allow justa fraction of clearance so it canslide smoothly in the extension's T-shaped slot. Accessories you make,like this one, should be carefullymade, smoothly sanded, and givenone or two applications of a pen-etrating sealer. When you treatthem right, they become tools thatwill function for as long as you dowoodworking.

Spacers for the Rip Fence--The rip fence can assist in cutting-to-length operations if a spacer isclamped or screwed to the rip fence(Figure 2-29). The spacer must beat least 1-1/2" thick. Figure 2-30shows how a screw-type spacer ismade. Warning: The rip fencealone must never be used as astop to gauge the length of acutoff. The cutoff, when the passis complete, will bind between thefence and the blade and bekicked back.

The distance between the fenceand the blade minus the thickness ofthe spacer determines the length ofthe cutoff. The workpiece is buttedagainst the spacer and then ad-vanced for cutting. When the passis completed, there is ample roombetween the rip fence and the bladeso the workpiece can't be trapped.

Another spacer design is shown

in Figure 2-31. An advantage ofthis one, made as shown in Figure2-32, is that it can be placed any-where on the rip fence, whichmakes it usable for other wood-working operations. Warning: Theworkpiece MUST clear the spacerwell before the end of the cut toavoid binding the work-piecebetween the spacer and the blade.

Crosscutting Wide StockCrosscutting wide boards

requires maximum support in frontof the blade. On the Model 500,

Figure 2-28. Construction details of a miter gauge extension with sliding stop.Figure 2-29. The workpiece is placedwell ahead of the blade and butted againsta spacer that is (A) clamped or (B)screwed to the rip fence. When the pass iscomplete, there will be ample roombetween the fence and the blade so thecutoff can't be trapped and kicked back.

Figure 2-30. Construction details of a screw-type spacer.

actual table length in front of theblade with projection set to cut 3/4"stock is about 7", which is goodsupport for average work. On theModel 510 there is 10" of table infront of the blade.

A front table extension (Figure2-33) is available as an accessoryfor the Model 500. This increasesthe usable table depth in front ofthe saw blade by 7". A singlelocking knob makes it easy toattach or remove; its miter gaugeslot is compatible with the slots inthe worktable.

Crosscutting Extra-Thick StockWhen you are cutting unusually

thick material and the machine'smaximum depth of cut won't allowyou to cut through in a single pass,you can do the job by making twopasses. Warning: When cuttingpart way through stock, it isnecessary to remove the uppersaw guard. Whenever the upperguard is removed, keep the lowerguard in place and work withextreme caution.

Set the blade's projection to alittle more than half the stock'sthickness and make one pass. Use asquare so you can pencil mark theline of the kerf down one side ofthe stock. Invert the stock andplace it so the pencil mark is in linewith the saw blade and make asecond pass (Figure 2-34).

RIPPINGRipping is cutting parallel to or

with the grain of the wood. It's alsoknown as cutting to width.

General RippingMount the proper saw blade.

Before turning on the machinecheck that the saw guards are inplace, adjust the table height, andmake a five-point check. All fivelocks--power plant, carriage, tableheight, table tilt, and quill--shouldbe secure.

When ripping, use the rip fenceto help guide the wood. Mount therip fence to the table, slide the ripfence so that it's the desired dis-tance away from the saw blade,then lock it in place. Use the quillfeed to make fine adjustments(Figure 2-35). Be sure to measurefrom the fence to the tip of a tooththat's set toward the fence. Whenproperly aligned, the rip fenceautomatically sets itself parallel tothe saw blade. However, on criticalsetups, it's wise to check this.Measure the distance from the ripfence to the saw blade at both thefront and back of the machine.Mount a feather board in front of

Figure 2-31. Another stop design. Itsadvantage is that it can be locked at anypoint along the rip fence. This makes itusable for more than cutoff work.

Figure 2-32. Construction details of a movable spacer.

Figure 2-33. The front table extension,an accessory for Model 500, can line upwith either table slot and increases tabledepth in front of the blade by 7".

Figure 2-34. You can cut extra-thickmaterial by working this way. Make onecut a bit more than halfway through thestock. Mark the cutline, invert the stock,and make a second pass. Warning: Workwith extreme caution because the uppersaw guard Is removed for both passes.

the blade to help hold the stockagainst the fence.

Stand in front of the Mark V, onthe opposite side of the blade thanthe rip fence. (This position willhelp you keep the stock pressedagainst the fence as you rip it.)Turn on the Mark V, turn the speeddial to the proper speed, and let thesaw come up to speed. Place thestock on the table and against the

rip fence. Slowly feed the stock intothe blade while

keeping it pressed firmly againstthe rip fence (Figure 2-36). Don'tforce the cut or go any faster thanthe blade can cut. Warning: Asyou finish the cut, use a pushstick or push block to help feedthe last portion of the stock pastthe blade (Figure 2-37). This willkeep your hands and fingers outof danger. When the cut is com-plete, turn off the machine andlet it come to a complete stopbefore removingthe stock or anyscraps.

Ripping Narrow StockWhen ripping narrow stock--1-

1/2" to 3" wide--use the fence

straddler to finish the cut (Figure 2-38). When ripping stock less thanhigher than the thickness of thestock (Figure 2-39) and screw it tothe rip fence so that the fencedoesn't interfere with the saw guardor the stock being cut. Use a similarsize piece of scrap stock to pushthe good stock past the blade(Figure 2-40). Caution: Do not usethe plastic push stick from thesafety kit. When the good stock isclear of the blade, turn off the MarkV. Hold the scrap push stick steadyuntil the blade comes to a completestop, then move it away from theblade. To keep small pieces of stockfrom falling through the table insert,move the blade close to the inserton the side of the blade where the

Figure 2-35. To set up for ripping, use thequill feed to make fine adjustments in thedistance from the saw blade to the ripfence. Measure from the fence to the tip ofa saw tooth that's set toward the fence.

Figure 2-36. The rip fence gauges the cut width and acts as a control throughout thepass. Hands are placed so they can't come close to the cut area

Figure 2-37. As you finish the rip cut, usea (A) push stick or (B) push block to helpfeed the last portion of the stock. Figure 2-38. When ripping narrow stock, use a fence straddler to help finish the cut.

stock is being cut, or use a specialtable insert. The construction detailsfor the special table inserts areshown in Figure 2-11.

Ripping Wide StockIf you're ripping stock that is 5-

1/2" to 8-1/2" wide (Model 500) and8-3/4" to 10-3/4" wide (Model 510),you can mount the rip fence so itstraddles the extension table and theworktable. Be sure that the exten-sion table and the worktable and ripfence are properly aligned, then slidethe power plant and carriage to theright so that the worktable buttsagainst the extension table. Positionthe rip fence so the saw blade is thedesired distance from the rip fenceand make fine adjustments with thequill feed. As you feed the stock, therip fence will accurately guide thestock (Figure 2-41).

Ripping Large StockWhenever you need to rip large

pieces of stock such as plywood,paneling and other sheet materials itis very important that the stock beproperly supported throughout thecut. Also, get a helper if the materialyou're ripping is too large to safelyhandle by yourself. There are severalsetups that provide the propersupport.

One setup for ripping sheetmaterials is to mount an extensiontable on one or both sides of themachine, then mount the rip fence onthe extension table.

You can also mount a supporttable (Figure 2-42) or use a rollerstand at the outfeed end of theworktable. For even more support,also use a support table (Model 510only) or roller stand at the infeed endof the worktable. With the Model510, you can also use the extensiontable system (Figure 2-43).

Figure 2-39. Construction details of a spacing fixture that is used when ripping stockless than 1-1/2" wide.

Figure 2-40. Clamp a spacing fixture to the rip fence to keep the fence from interferingwith the saw guard or the stock being cut.

Figure 2-41. To rip wide stock, mount the rip fence so it straddles the extension tableand the worktable. The rip fence accurately guides the stock.

Figure 2-42. A support table ne/ps support large stock at the outfeed end of theworktable.

Figure 2-43. The Model 510 extension table system supports wide stock.

Figure 2-44. Use a support table when ripping long stock.Figure 2-45. A roller stand providessupport for long stock.

Ripping Long StockWhen ripping long stock it is

extremely important to support thestock during the cut. Warning: Ifthe stock is too long to safelyhandle by yourself get a helper toassist you.

One way to support the stock isto mount a support table to theoutfeed end of the worktable(Figure 2-44) or position a rollerstand 1' to 4' away from the outfeedend of the worktable (Figure 2-45).You may also want to position aroller stand at the infeed end of theworktable. If the stock is extremelylong (over 6'), you will want to usea roller stand positioned 2' to 4'beyond the support table (Figure 2-46). On the Model 510 you canmount a second support table at theinfeed end of the worktable forextra support.

As you feed the stock, it comesoff the outfeed end of the table andthe support table and/or the rollerstand will support it.

Figure 2-47 shows a rip fenceextension that is used for rippinglong and wide boards, and evenplywood. To make the rip fenceextension (Figure 2-48), use 3/4"plywood or clear straight hard-wood. Drill and counterbore holesfor the mounting bolts. Attach thesupport to the back with glue and

screws. Mount 1-3/4" wide strips tothe bottom edge for more support.

Sawing Stock with IrregularEdges

Sometimes a piece of stock maynot have an edge that is straightenough to be used against the ripfence. Maybe the piece has been cuton both edges with a jigsaw orbandsaw, or it might be uneven,rough lumber. These pieces ofstock can be rip cut by the guide-strip method. A narrow, straightpiece of stock is clamped or tack-nailed to the underside of the stockto be used as a guide. Or make aguide as shown in Figure 2-49.

On the Model 510, mount therip fence to the extension table andlower it until the top of the ripfence is flush with the top of thetable. The guide will ride againstthe rip fence (Figure 2-50A). Onthe Model 500, the guide ridesagainst the edge of the table (Figure2-50B). Where you place the guidestrip will determine how much ofthe irregular edge of the stock willbe removed.

Since the worktable can bemoved along the way tubes, some

Figure 2-46. If the stock is extremely long, use a support table and two roller stands.

Figure 2-47. Use a rip fence extension when ripping long and wide boards, and evenplywood.

Figure 2-48. Construction details of a rip fence extension.

Figure 2-49. Construction details of aguide used for ripping stock withirregular edges.

large-sized pieces of stock can behandled in this fashion.

Taper RippingTaper rip cuts, needed for many

projects, call for a taper guide thathas one straight side that can movealong the rip fence and an adjust-able side that can be locked at anangle to gauge the amount of taper.You can buy a taper guide or makeone as shown in Fig-ure 2-51.Surface-mount or mortise the hingeon the ends of the legs. The cross-piece, or brace, that is used tosecure settings can be made ofmetal instead of wood.

After the guide is assembled,mark a line across both legs 12"away from the hinged end. Becauseof the 12" marks, you can presetthe guide for particular tapers bymeasuring between the legs (Figure2-52). For example, if you weremaking a stool with legs that are12" long, 3" wide at the top, and 2"wide at the bottom, you wouldneed to cut a 1" per foot taper. Byseparating the legs 1" at the 12"mark, you would have the correctsetting for the guide to cut the taperon two adjacent sides only.

To provide a scale for futureadjustments, separate the legs to

Figure 2-50. You can straighten stock with irregular edges by workingthis way. The guide rides against (A) the rip fence on the Model 510and(B) against the edge of the table on the Model 500.

Figure 2-51. Construction details of a taper guide.

Figure 2-52. Mark across the legs 12"away from the hinged end; then you canmeasure between the marks to set the guidefor a particular taper per foot.

various dimensions across the 12"marks and use a pencil to mark thesettings on the cross brace (Figure2-53).

When a project component, atable leg, for example, needs to betapered on four sides, make onepass and then a second pass on anadjacent side of the stock withoutchanging the guide's setting. Adjustthe guide to twice the originalsetting and then make a third andfourth pass consecutively on thenext adjacent sides.

Use a taper guide as shown inFigure 2-54. The workpiece isplaced flush against the leg of theguide. Both the guide and theworkpiece are then moved forwardto make the cut. Notice that theworktable is positioned at the rightend and lined up with the extensiontable to increase the work-piecesupport area. The operation is donejust like a routine rip cut. The onlydifference is that the workpiece isfed forward by moving the guide.

When the same taper is requiredon the opposite side of the stock,make the first cut as just described;then adjust the guide to twice itsoriginal opening. Position the stockso the edge already tapered is

against the guide, and make asecond pass (Figure 2-55).

Other Tapering Techniques--The step guide, diagrammed inFigure 2-56, is a good aid forproduction-type work because iteliminates having to set the variableguide for different tapers. The stepsin the guide, which are dimensioned

Figure 2-56. A step guide is a good aid if you do production work and willfrequently be needing a particular taper.

Figure 2-53. You can calibrate the crossbrace for particular taper-per-footsettings.

Figure 2-54. This is how the workpiece isplaced in the taper guide. Place hands asyou would for regular rip cuts. Be sure theguide rides against the fence throughoutthe pass

Figure 2-55. When you require the sametaper on opposite edges, reposition theworkpiece, set the guide for twice theoriginaltaper, and make a second pass.

for particular cuts, gauge theamount of taper. Each step willconsistently produce the sametaper. The work is placed so thatone corner is in the correct step andthe opposite end butts against thearm of the guide. The straight edgeof the guide rides against the ripfence. against the rip fence.