Center for Contemporary Arab Studies

Study Tour to Syria and Turkey-Summer 2002

Georgetown University

By Paul G. Gallagher

Welcome to Damascus, Syria.

Facts about Syria

•Geography- 185, 180 square kilometers (about 1/2 size of Italy)

•Four geographical regions-Coastal strip-Anti-Lebanon Range (mountains)-Fertile Crescent-Desert

•Climate-temperatures average 100 degrees+ in summer

•Population•approximately 17 million 3.4% growth rate (one of highest in theworld) •over 1/2 less than 21

Government•Socialist Popular Democracy (Ba’ath Socialist Party is dominant)•President Bashar Al-Assad has ruled since 2000•Secular state, but President must be Muslim•Religious freedom guaranteed

Economy•Since 1990’s has been decentralizing and moving towards a mixedcommand/capitalist economy•Oil and natural gas deposits have increased since 1980’s•25% Agriculture-Cereals and cotton, tobacco, fruits, and olives•23% Industry-fertilizers, iron, steel, textiles, rubber, glass, paperand food processing, assembly of TV’s, appliances and tractors.•Power generation has increased greatly with the dam at the Euprhates River•50% of government expenditures are on the military

UmayyadMosque-4thmost reveredplace in Islam

Minaret ofJesus-localtraditionstates that thisis where Jesuswill reappear.

View fromoutside theMosque

Women must be covered when entering a Mosque.

Inner courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque

Absolutions fountain

Children wander freely through the Mosque

The high ceilings and ample shade provide relief from hot afternoons

Fountain of absolutions incenter of courtyard

Prayer hall

Stained glass an influence from Christian era

Shrine of John the Baptist-it is believed his head lies in state here.

Mosaics line the inner courtyard

Entering the “Souk” or market area of the old town

Gold can be found at many of the shops

Spices and manykinds of fruits andnuts are also for saleat the souk.

The ceilings provide shadefrom the hot sunfor shoppers.

University of Damascus School of Education

Administrative building at the University of Damascus

A young Palestinian student from East Jerusalem shared his experiences withme about the effects of the currentcrisis on his people.

Abdullah-our tour guideprovides us with somebackground on the Christian quarter whichwe are about to enter.

Keeping the group together was a challenge with such great shops...

Even during the heat ofthe day people shop or stroll through the souk.

Caravan sarai in the heart of the souk provided traders with a place torest and trade their wares.

Abdullah explains that thegovernments provided the fundsto build and maintain the saraisthroughout the empire to assisttrade and maintain links betweencities

The sarai provided housingfor traders and a place to storetheir goods and animals in thecity. Located in, or near thesouk, they were a critical link in the economy of the MiddleEast.

President Hafez Al-Assad ruled Syria until his death in2000.

Classic cars can be found throughout Damascus and other parts of Syria

Another “classic”

The shrine ofSt. Paul providesa link to the area’sChristian past.

Narrow streetsare a hallmarkof the ChristianQuarter.

This restaurant provides an example of Syrian architecture

The entranceto the NationalMuseum inDamascusshows the many influencesof the region.

The garden of the NationalMuseum holds clues to the many influences in SyrianHistory.

Can you guess this language?

The view lookingout of the NationalMuseum entrance

Palmyra-Roman Ruins and more…..

The entrance toThe entrance tothe Temple ofthe Temple ofBel (Baal) datesBel (Baal) datesfrom 32 C.E.from 32 C.E.

The Altar where sacrificeswere made to the God Bel

Restoration is underway on the site by a group of Polish archeologists.Some argue that the work actually detracts from the value of the site, but the potential value of tourists to the Syrian economy suggests thatthe work will continue.

What do you think?

After six flights of a dark narrow stairway these folks were able tosee Palmyra from a new perspective.

Restored columns from the Roman period

At sunrise early risers can see Palmyra from the back of a Camel

Restored theater from the Roman era

Aramaic Village

“Maalula”

Mar Sarkis Monestary overlooksthe town “Maalula”

Houses have been built into the sides of cliffs for centuries to protectagainst invaders.

Le Crac des Chevaliers

“Castle of the Knights”

Crusaders led by “Tancred” Prince of Antioch occupied the small fortressknown as “Castle on the Slope” in 1110. They began improving the siteafter several earthquakes damaged the fortress during the 162 years they occupied the site. The site was never taken by force, but after a siege by

King Al-Zaher Baybars in the winter of 1271 the Hospitallers, a FrankishOrder of Fighting Monks, surrendered. The Crusaders were treated wellby most accounts and allowed to return to their ancestral homes in Europe.

The site is important strategically because it overlooks the Buqai’ahValley which leads to the sea, and the rich farmland below. At its peak

the garrison held 4000 soldiers and was part of a string of fortresses thatsecured the “holy land” for the Christian kingdoms.

One of the key features of theCastle is its successivedefenses. This includes a moatbehind the main wall that protected the keep from thenear side of the hill where thewalls were least effective.

Desert “Hunting Lodge” for Umayyad Dynasty.

On the road to Homs we found “Beehive Houses” and childrenwho were curious about the big bus full of visitors.

Aleppo-and our homefor two nights-the “Famous Baron Hotel”where “Lawrence ofArabia” was said to havespent many nights

Things have changed a bit since Lawrence’s time

Not the exterior of the building it seems….

The Citadel in Aleppo was improved upon by itsinhabitants from the 3rd century. The Byzantines were unable to take it when they took the town in961 and 968 and the Crusaders were unsuccessfulas well in 1124.

Boys will be boyswherever you go...

Syria is quite amelting pot…notethe red hair on thisyoung man.

The courtyard insidean asylum for thementally ill providesa break from the late day sun.

Dr. Stowasser givesa brief lecture on theprovisions that Islammade for society suchas this center fortreatment of the mentally ill.

Two faces of Islam. One youngand inquisitive,the other steeped in tradition.

The old city is a remarkableblend of the oldand the new.Tradition is respected, yet the modern world influencesmost aspects ofdaily life

Young peopleappear remarkablyhappy with fewmaterial things.

The covered Soukin Aleppo is narrowerthan that of Damascus.It is darker, and moredifficult to navigate,but seemed to have a greater variety of foodsand goods available.

Public access towater was evidentin many places.

This young girl explained to us that she was selling baked goods instead of attending school at the direction of her parents. It was notclear whether this was out of financial need or traditional beliefs heldby her family.

The young boy said that he attended school regularly.

Roman road on the way to the Turkish border and Antakya. Just wideenough for a legion to pass in formation.

Bedouin nomads living near an ancient Church.

We never found out if the children attended school or not. It islikely that they live a traditional life helping tend the flocks.

No fear of strangers here,just curiosity...

Monastery of St. Simeon Stylites (390-459) He was a shepherd in hischildhood and had a vision that he spent his later life on pillars. Becauseof his severe mortifications he was ousted from the monastery at Heliodorus. He erected a ten foot high pillar to stay away from the crowdthat came to him in search of his wisdom. He lived the rest of his life onpillars up to 60 feet tall. He wore only simple skins of animals and fastedthe entire 40 days of Lent for 40 years. This monastery was built in hishonor.

The site of his pillars.

A young man of 19 approached me and asked ifI was English. I stated I wasAmerican, and he wasamazed that Americans would visit Syria. “Whydo Americans hate us?” Heasked. I told him that mostAmericans were upset atthe attack on innocent people in our country, butthat we tend to accept everyone in our country.He said that he hoped oneday we can all be friendsand more Americans willcome visit. If they are at alllike you they must be okay.

Baptismal wellat St. Simeon’sMonastery.

Our final stop in Syria…kids swimming in an old quarry.

Abdullah Abdulhay- our faithful guide in Syria.

Karmine Travel and TourismAlleppo P.O. Box 8374 SyriaEmail: karminetour@mail.sy

Tel/Fax 00963 21 2238550

The future of Syria

A small token of our appreciation...

On to Antakya, Turkey….

St. Peter’s Grotto on thefeast of Peterand Paul.

Kemal Attaturk,the “GeorgeWashington” ofmodern Turkey.His picture andstatue is every-where and he isthe symbol of themodern Turkishstate.

Early Christiansavoided Romanpersecution by meeting in cavesand catacombslike these overlookingAntioch (now Antakya)

The local police delivering flowers for the Christian feast day.

Antakya

Military service is compulsory in Turkey. These recruits are on a passdoing a little shopping at the local market. Turkey is a strong partnerin NATO. During the Gulf War many of our flights originated there.

Roman casket at the National Museum in Antakya.

Roman mosaics in the National Museum

Roman Emperor Decius

Soldiers guarding a communications post aboveAntakya

Castle ruins overlooking Antakya

Caravan sarai/Fortress on the road to Adana nearthe Mediterranean Sea

Inside the fortress….

One can see from the view why this location was important to the region….

Contrast of the old and the new…..History and the “modern world.”

Dr. Redford explains the process of excavation at the archeological dig near Adana.

The lab and a few artifactsin storage...

More artifacts and the vehicle that will get you whereyou need to go to find them...

Two areas of previous excavation….

Each layer can provide new clues to the past…..

Dr. Redford inhis naturalhabitat

Heavy rainfall during the year contributed to the excessive undergrowthat the site. It will have to be cleared before work can resume this summer

ISTANBUL

The Hagia Sophia is perhaps themost famous building in the world.It has been a Church, a Mosqueand is now a museum...

Every year thousands oftourists come from all overthe world to see this greatwonder

The Bosporus….separating, or connecting, East and West

Turkey is very European,and yet very Asian as well.

The Blue Mosque was built to rival the Hagia Sophia. Nice but no cigar.

By sea it is easy to understandwhy people were awed bythe city from the earliest times.It is simply breathtaking….

Modern world meetsthe old world…...

Turkish Naval Academy

Streetcars, and buses shuttle people throughout Istanbul. But taxis arecheap with the favorable exchange rate...

Many thanks to everyone who made this trip possible and memorable.Zeina Seikaly, Director of Outreach programs at CCAS, Dr. BarbaraStowasser, Director of CCAS, Dr. Scott Redford, Professor of Archeology, Georgetown University.

To all ofmy fellowtravellersa specialthanks forbeing part of agreat trip.

Three weeks, months, or years might be enough time to try to know a place like Turkey or Syria. The warm people and thesimilarities we all share in our humanity is what strikes me most after traveling to this part of our ever shrinking planet.Two“Islamic” countries in two weeks. Each with their own traditions and history. Muchof it intermingled and shared. Both unique.Both were full of surprises. Each has its own charm and, yet, like most placesproblems are lurking beneath the surface. Conclusions? More questions than answers.Perhaps that’s a good reason to go back...