sweetness sew greenbacks wallet trio - crafty gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your...

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Sara Lawson Sew Sweetness Greenbacks Wallet Trio

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Page 1: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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Sweetness Greenbacks Wallet Trio

Page 2: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

1

All seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise noted.

Please read all instructions before beginning.

Wallet #1 – Beginner Sewing Level

Finished Size: 4” x 5”

All cutting measurements given throughout the pattern are length x height.

Supplies

fat quarter of exterior fabric (or make it scrappy with 8 pieces, each at least 6” x 6”)

6” x 8” piece of lining fabric

1/4 yard of Pellon® SF-101 Shape Flex® fusible woven interfacing (or lightweight fusible interfacing)

1/4 yard of Pellon #987F Fusible Fleece

6” zipper

Notions

Zipper foot

Iron

Pressing Cloth

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Page 3: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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Scissors

Seam Ripper

Disappearing Ink Fabric Marker

Cutting

Please cut your fabric pieces in the order listed, so that you will have plenty of fabric for the bag. When printing

pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size.

Helpful Hint: Feel free to use post-it notes to label your cut fabric pieces and easily stay organized.

From the exterior fabric, cut:

(2) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece

(4) Card Slots, 4-1/2” x 2-1/4”

From the lining fabric, cut:

(2) Pocket 6” x 3”

From the Shape Flex, cut:

(4) Card Slots, 4-1/2” x 2-1/4”

From the Fusible Fleece, cut:

(2) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece; trim 1/4” smaller on all sides to reduce bulk in the seam

allowance

Attach the Interfacing

1. Place the fusible (tacky) side of the Shape Flex against the wrong side of one Card Slot. Fuse according to

manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Card Slots.

Helpful Hint: To fuse Shape Flex, what I usually do is first place the Card Slot face down, followed by the interfacing (tacky

side down), then my pressing cloth. I lightly spritz the pressing cloth with water, then iron, overlapping each area, for

approximately 10 seconds on each spot. When finished, it should be firmly attached to your fabric.

2. Place the fusible side of the fusible fleece, centered, against the wrong side of the Exterior Main Panel. Fuse

according to manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the remaining Exterior Main Panel.

Page 4: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

3

Attach the Card Slots

3. Using a tight zig-zag on your sewing machine (or

you can use a serger if you have one), sew across the top

long edge and the bottom long edge of all the Card Slot

pieces, one by one. Press the top zig-zag edge toward the

wrong side of the fabric, 1/4” from the top edge.

Topstitch the pressed edge using a 1/8” seam allowance.

4. Place one Exterior Main Panel in front of you,

right side facing you. Place one of the Card Slot fabrics,

also right side facing you, on top of the Exterior Main

Panel. The topstitched edge of the Card Slot should be 5”

higher than the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel.

Pin in place, then sew the bottom raw edge of the Card

Slot.

5. Place a second Card Slot fabric directly on top, right side facing. The topstitched edge of the Card Slot should be

4” higher than the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom raw edge of the second

Card Slot.

6. Place a third Card Slot fabric directly on top, right side facing. The topstitched edge of the Card Slot should be 3”

higher than the bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom raw edge of the third Card

Slot.

7. Finally, lay the fourth Card Slot fabric on top. The bottom curved edge of the Exterior Main Panel should be

aligned with the bottom edge of the third Card Slot. Pin the top, bottom, and sides.

Page 5: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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8. Trim Card Slots so that they are even with the

Exterior Main Panel. Sew all around the Exterior Main

Panel using a 1/8” seam allowance. This will secure all the

Card Slot fabrics in place.

Finish the Wallet

9. Take the Exterior Main Panel without the Card

Slots. Trim in half lengthwise. Trim the zipper so that it is

exactly 6” long.

10. Place one half of the Exterior Main Panel right

side up. Place the zipper, face down, on top. The long

straight edge should be aligned with the zipper tape. Pin

in place. With the zipper foot on, stitch the zipper in

place, 1/4” from the zipper teeth. Start and stop 1/4”

from each end.

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11. Place one Pocket right side up. Place the Exterior

Main Panel, right side down onto the 6” edge of the

Pocket, with the zipper at the top. Pin in place. Sew

directly on top of the stitching from the previous step.

12. Turn the fabrics so that they are wrong sides

together. Press. Topstitch the finished edge using a 1/8”

seam allowance.

13. Repeat Steps 10-12 for the remaining half of the Exterior Main Panel and the remaining Pocket.

14. Sew the Pocket sides and 1” in from each side on the bottom. This will leave an opening in your Pocket for

turning right side out later on.

15. Unzip your zipper. Place both Exterior Main

Panels right sides together. Make sure the lining is out of

the way. Pin. If needed, trim the Exterior Main Panel with

the zipper so that it is even with the Exterior Main Panel

with the Card Slots. Sew all around the outer edge of the

pinned Exterior Main Panel. Clip the corners. Turn right

side out through the opening in the pocket and press.

16. Topstitch the opening in the lining closed using a 1/4” seam allowance, or slipstitch by hand.

Page 7: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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All seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise noted.

Please read all instructions before beginning.

Wallet #2 – Intermediate Sewing Level

Finished Size: 5” x 7”

All cutting measurements given throughout the pattern are length x height.

Supplies

1/4 yard of exterior fabric

1/4 yard of lining fabric

1 yard of Pellon® SF-101 Shape Flex® fusible woven interfacing (or lightweight fusible interfacing)

17” x 12” piece of By Annie’s Soft and Stable™, available at local quilt shops or on-line

(Soft and Stable is a 1/8” thick, foam sew-in interfacing; one of my testers also recommends automotive headliner fabric

in place of the Soft and Stable; you can also substitute a needled fleece fusible interfacing for the Soft and Stable, such

as Pellon #TP971F Thermolam Plus fusible interfacing)

1/2” metal d-ring

1-1/2” long metal swivel clip

Two 3/4” squares of hook and loop closure (Velcro) OR two sets of snap fastener

Optional: Pellon Peltex #70 extra-heavy sew-in interfacing, 11” x 8” piece; I like my wallets to be extra-sturdy. If you’d like

a softer wallet, feel free to omit the Peltex.

Page 8: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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Notions

Zipper foot

Iron

Pressing Cloth

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Scissors

Seam Ripper

Disappearing Ink Fabric Marker

Cutting

Please cut your fabric pieces in the order listed, so that you will have plenty of fabric for the wallet. When printing

pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size.

Helpful Hint: Feel free to use post-it notes to label your cut fabric pieces and easily stay organized.

From the exterior fabric, cut:

(1) Wrist Strap, 15” x 2”

(1) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

(2) Pocket, using the Pocket pattern piece

Note: If you intend to use your pocket to hold your cell phone, compare the pattern piece to see if it will fit first; some cell

phone protective cases are very large and may not fit the pocket. If not, feel free to omit the Pocket/2 Front Closure

pieces.

(4) Front Closure, using the Front Closure pattern piece

(1) Strap Extender, 2” x 2”

From the lining fabric, cut:

(1) Lining Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

(6) Card Slots, 8” x 3-1/2”

From the Soft and Stable, cut:

(1) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

From the Shape Flex, cut:

(1) Wrist Strap, 15” x 2”

Page 9: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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(2) Pocket, using the Pocket pattern piece

(4) Front Closure, using the Front Closure pattern piece

(1) Lining Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

(6) Card Slots, 8” x 3-1/2”

Optional: From the Peltex, cut:

(1) Lining Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, draw onto Peltex; trim Peltex 1/2” smaller on all sides, to

reduce bulk in the seam allowance. (set aside Peltex until the end)

Attach the Interfacing

1. Place the Exterior Main Panel with the wrong side of the fabric against the Soft and Stable. Pin in place. Baste

around the outer edge of the fabric using a 1/8” seam allowance.

Helpful Hint: I like to gently pull my fabric taut as I am basting it to the Soft and Stable for a tight, crisp finish. If you

would like, machine quilt the Soft and Stable pieces at this time.

Optional: (if not using Peltex, proceed to Step 2) Place the Lining Main Panel wrong side facing you. Lay the Peltex

directly on top; it should be centered. Last, lay the corresponding piece of Shape Flex on top, tacky side down. The

Shape Flex should be even with the Lining Main Panel fabric. Fuse the Shape Flex in place; since the Peltex is smaller, the

Shape Flex should fuse to the lining fabric in a 1/2” border all the way around, which will seal the Peltex in place.

2. Place the fusible (tacky) side of the Shape Flex against the wrong side of the Lining Main Panel. Fuse according to

manufacturer instructions. Repeat for the Wrist Strap, Pockets, Front Closure, and Card Slots.

Helpful Hint: To fuse Shape Flex, what I usually do is first place the Lining Main Panel face down, followed by the

interfacing (tacky side down), then my pressing cloth. I lightly spritz the pressing cloth with water, then iron, overlapping

each area, for approximately 10 seconds on each spot. When finished, it should be firmly attached to your fabric.

Assemble the Credit Card Slots

3. Using a tight zig-zag on your sewing machine (or

you can use a serger if you have one), sew across the top

long edge and the bottom long edge of all the Card Slot

pieces, one by one. Press the top zig-zag edge toward the

wrong side of the fabric, 1/4” from the top edge.

Topstitch the pressed edge using a 1/8” seam allowance.

Repeat this step for all Card Slot pieces.

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4. Place the Lining Main Panel in front of you, right

side facing you, as pictured. We will begin by assembling

the left half of the Lining Main Panel. Place one of the

Card Slot fabrics, also right side facing you, on top of the

Lining Main Panel. The finished edge of the Card Slot

should be 4-1/2” to the inside of the left-hand edge of the

Lining Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom

serged edge of the Card Slot using a 1/8” seam allowance.

5. Place a second Card Slot fabric directly on top, right side facing you. The finished edge of the Card Slot should be

4” to the inside of the left-hand edge of the Lining Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom serged edge of the

second Card Slot using a 1/8” seam allowance.

6. Finally, lay a third Card Slot fabric on top. The left

curved edge of the Lining Main Panel should be aligned

with the bottom edge of the third Card Slot. Pin the top,

bottom, and sides.

7. Repeat Steps 4-6 for the right half of the Lining

Main Panel and the remaining Card Slot fabrics.

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8. Sew all around the outside edge of the Lining Main Panel using a 1/8” seam allowance. This will secure all the

Card Slot fabrics in place. Trim bottom Card Slots so that they are aligned with the Lining Main Panel.

9. Flip the Lining Main Panel so that the Card Slots

are aligned horizontally. On top of the Card Slot fabrics

only, draw a vertical line that is in 2-7/8” from the left-

hand edge and another line that is in 2-7/8” from the

right-hand edge. Sew on top of these lines. This will

create the credit card dividers on the left-hand side of the

wallet only. Test your credit cards in the slot to make sure

that the snugness is to your preference.

Assemble the Wrist Strap

10. Take your Strap Extender. Press in half, wrong sides together, so that both edges meet. Press. Fold the top of the fabric down to the crease. Open out again, then fold the other edge in to meet the crease and press. Fold the entire piece along the first fold and press. You should have created a tiny piece of double-fold tape.

11. Topstitch both long edges of the Strap Extender using a 1/8” seam allowance.

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12. Repeat Steps 10-11 for the Wrist Strap.

13. Press the Strap Extender in half, lengthwise. Slide the metal d-ring onto the crease. Baste the short ends of the Strap Extender together using a 1/8” seam allowance.

14. Baste the Strap Extender on the right-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel, approximately 2” below the top edge of the Exterior Main Panel. The raw edges of the Strap Extender should be even with the raw edge of the right side of the Exterior Main Panel.

15. Mark a line on both short ends of the Wrist Strap that is in 1/2” from both short ends. Press under at those lines.

16. Put the metal swivel clip on one end and sew

both pressed edges down onto the Wrist Strap using a

1/8” seam allowance. I like to sew a small rectangle,

which will enclose all raw edges. The strap should now be

a loop. Put the Wrist Strap to the side to attach at the

end.

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Assemble the Exterior

17. Mark the placement for the hook and loop (or the

snap fastener) on one Pocket piece, centered and 1-1/2”

below the top straight edge. Either sew on the hook and

loop directly on top of the mark, or install the snap

fastener according to manufacturer instructions.

Helpful Hint: If using the snap fastener, I suggest

reinforcing the area behind the fastener, before installing

it, on the wrong side of the fabric. I like to use a small 1”

square of fusible fleece, or a square of batting temporarily

secured with a glue stick works too.

18. Place the Pocket pieces, right sides together. Sew

all along the outside, leaving a 3” opening along the top

edge. Notch the curved corners.

19. Turn right side out and press. Also make sure to

press the opening in toward the wrong side by 1/4”.

Topstitch along the top straight edge using a 1/8” seam

allowance.

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20. With the Exterior Main Panel in front of you,

place the completed pocket on the left-hand side of the

Exterior Main Panel. The Pocket should be along the

bottom edge of the Exterior Main Panel, approximately

1” higher than the bottom and 1” in from the left-hand

side. Pin. Sew along the side and bottom edges only

using a 1/8” seam allowance.

21. Mark the placement for the other half of the hook

and loop (or snap fastener) on one Front Closure piece,

centered and 1-1/2” above the v-shaped edge. Again, I

suggest reinforcing the area before installation, using a

scrap of fleece or batting. Sew on the velcro or install the

snap.

Helpful Hint: Some of my pattern testers used a decorative

snap instead, which would go through all layers of fabric.

If this is the case, complete Step 22 and Step 23 before

installing your snap through all layers.

22. Place two Front Closure pieces, right sides

together. Sew all along the outside, but leave the top

short edge unsewn. Trim the corners.

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23. Turn the Front Closure right side out and press.

Topstitch the finished edges using a 1/8” seam allowance.

24. Close the Velcro/snap of the Front Closure onto

the Pocket. Baste the Front Closure to the top of the

Exterior Main Panel using a 1/8” seam allowance, on the

side above the Pocket. It should be centered at the top.

The raw edge of the Front Closure should be even with

the top edge of the Exterior Main Panel.

25. Repeat Steps 21- 23 for the remaining two Front Closure pieces.

26. Make a mark on the right-hand side of the Exterior Main Panel that is centered and in 4” down from the top

edge, and 2-1/2” over from the right-hand edge. Install half of the hook and loop (or snap fastener) at that mark, and

again, feel free to reinforce the area.

27. Draw a line on the left-hand edge of the Exterior

Main Panel that is down 3-1/2” from the top edge. Baste

the remaining Front Closure just below the line that you

drew. The raw edge of the Front Closure should be even

with the left side of the Exterior Main Panel.

Page 16: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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Finish the Wallet

28. Place the Exterior Main Panel and the Lining Main

Panel right sides together. Make sure the Front Closure

pieces are tucked safely inside. Pin. Sew all along the

outer edge, except leave a 5” opening along the top.

Notch the curved edges.

Helpful Hint: I recommend leaving your 5” opening on the

edge of the wallet that does not have a Front Closure or

Strap Extender piece, in order to get a neater topstitch at

the end.

29. Turn the wallet right side out and press, also pressing in the opening toward the wrong side by 1/4”. Make sure

to open the Front Closure pieces out and away from the wallet. Topstitch all around the wallet using a 1/8” seam

allowance.

Page 17: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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All seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise noted.

Please read all instructions before beginning.

Wallet #3 – Advanced Sewing Level

Finished Size: 8” x 4-1/2”

All cutting measurements given throughout the pattern are length x height.

Supplies

fat quarter of exterior fabric

fat quarter of lining fabric

fat quarter of fabric for the accordion divider

fat quarter of fabric for the divider pockets

6 scraps of coordinating fabric, each at least 6” x 10”

1 yard of Pellon® SF-101 Shape Flex® fusible woven interfacing (or lightweight fusible interfacing)

18” x 10” piece of By Annie’s Soft and Stable™, available at local quilt shops or on-line

(Soft and Stable is a 1/8” thick, foam sew-in interfacing; one of my testers also recommends automotive headliner fabric

in place of the Soft and Stable; you can also substitute a needled fleece fusible interfacing for the Soft and Stable, such

as Pellon #TP971F Thermolam Plus fusible interfacing)

Optional: 1/4 yard of Pellon #70 Peltex sew-in extra heavy interfacing for added wallet stiffness

7” zipper

Page 18: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

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18” zipper

1 yard of double fold bias tape (here’s a great tutorial on how to make your own: http://www.sew4home.com/tips-

resources/sewing-tips-tricks/bias-tape-how-make-it-attach-it)

You will be cutting your fabric strips for the double-fold bias tape 1-1/4” wide

Notions

Zipper foot

Iron

Pressing Cloth

Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat

Scissors

Seam Ripper

Disappearing Ink Fabric Marker

Hand sewing needle

Cutting

Please cut your fabric pieces in the order listed, so that you will have plenty of fabric for the bag. When printing

pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size.

Helpful Hint: Feel free to use post-it notes to label your cut fabric pieces and easily stay organized.

From the exterior fabric, cut:

(1) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

From the lining fabric, cut:

(1) Lining Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

From the accordion divider fabric, cut:

(4) Accordion, 8” x 4-1/4”

(3) Zipper Tabs, 3” x 1-1/2”

From the divider pocket fabric, cut:

(2) Divider Pocket, 7” x 7-1/4”

From the scraps, cut:

(6) Card Slots, 9” x 3-1/2”

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From the Soft and Stable, cut:

(1) Exterior Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

From the Shape Flex, cut:

(1) Lining Main Panel, using the Main Panel pattern piece, cut on the fold

(4) Accordion, 8” x 4-1/4”

(1) Divider Pocket, 7” x 7-1/4”

(6) Card Slots, 9” x 3-1/2”

Optional: From the Peltex, cut:

(1) using the Exterior Main Panel fabric piece that you cut already, trace onto the Peltex. Mark the Peltex 1/2” smaller on

all sides, then cut.

Attach the Interfacing

1. Place the Exterior Main Panel with the wrong side of the fabric against the Soft and Stable. Pin in place. Baste

around the outer edge of the fabric using a 1/8” seam allowance.

Helpful Hint: I like to gently pull my fabric taut as I am basting it to the Soft and Stable for a tight, crisp finish. If you

would like, machine quilt the Soft and Stable pieces at this time.

2. Place the fusible (tacky) side of the Shape Flex against the wrong side of the Lining Main Panel. Fuse according to

manufacturer instructions. Repeat for one Divider Pockets, Accordion pieces, and all Card Slots.

Helpful Hint: To fuse Shape Flex, what I usually do is first place the Lining Main Panel face down, followed by the

interfacing (tacky side down), then my pressing cloth. I lightly spritz the pressing cloth with water, then iron, overlapping

each area, for approximately 10 seconds on each spot. When finished, it should be firmly attached to your fabric.

Assemble the Credit Card Slots

5. Using a tight zig-zag on your sewing machine (or

you can use a serger if you have one), sew across the top

long edge and the bottom long edge of all the Card Slot

pieces, one by one. Press the top zig-zag edge toward the

wrong side of the fabric, 1/4” from the top edge. Topstitch

the pressed edge using a 1/8” seam allowance.

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6. Place the Lining Main Panel in front of you, right

side facing you, as pictured. We will begin by assembling

the left half of the Lining Main Panel. Place one of the

Card Slot fabrics, also right side facing you, on top of the

Lining Main Panel. The finished edge of the Card Slot

should be 1” to the right of the curved edge of the Lining

Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom raw edge of

the Card Slot using a 1/8” seam allowance.

7. Place a second Card Slot fabric directly on top,

right side facing. The finished edge of the Card Slot should

be 1-1/2” to the right of the curved edge of the Lining

Main Panel. Pin in place, then sew the bottom raw edge

of the second Card Slot.

8. Press the bottom zig-zag edge of the third Card

Slot in by 1/4”. Finally, lay the third Card Slot fabric on top.

The bottom pressed edge of the Card Slot should be 2” to

the right of the curved edge of the Lining Main Panel. Pin.

Sew the bottom pressed edge using a 1/8” seam

allowance.

9. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the right half of the Lining Main Panel and the remaining Card Slot fabrics.

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10. Trim bottom Card Slot so that it is aligned with

the Lining Main Panel. Sew all around the Lining Main

Panel using a 1/8” seam allowance. This will secure all

the Card Slot fabrics in place.

11. On top of the Card Slot fabrics only, draw a

vertical line that is in 3” from the left-hand edge, and

another that is in 3” from the right-hand edge. Sew on

top of these lines (remember to sew on top of the Card

Slot fabrics only). This will create the credit card dividers.

Test your credit cards in the slot to make sure that the

snugness is to your preference.

Assemble the Accordion Divider

12. Place two Accordion pieces, right sides together. Sew along both long edges. Turn right side out and press.

Topstitch the finished edges using a 1/8” seam allowance.

13. Place one accordion piece in front of you long

ways. Draw one vertical line in the center and one either

side of the center line at 1 3/8".

14. Press at the marks as pictured.

15. Repeat Steps 12-14 to complete a second

Accordion piece.

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16. Take one Zipper Tab. Press in half along the long

edge, wrong sides together, so that both short edges

meet. Press. Fold the top of the fabric down to the crease.

Open out again, then fold the other edge in to meet the

crease and press. Fold the entire piece along the first fold

and press. You should have created a tiny piece of

double-fold tape. Repeat for one more Zipper Tab.

17. Trim your zipper so that it is exactly 7” long.

18. Slide one end of the zipper in between one Zipper

Tab, with the end of the zipper hitting that center crease.

Pin in place. Topstitch the fabric 1/8" from the zipper.

Repeat for the other end of the zipper and the remaining

Zipper Tab.

19. Trim the excess fabric on either end of the zipper

so that it is the same width as the zipper.

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20. Place one of your Divider Pockets right side up.

Take your zipper and align it, right side down, with the top

7” edge. Pin in place. With your zipper foot on and using a

1/4" seam allowance from the top of the divider pocket,

stitch the zipper in place, including both zipper tabs.

21. Place a second Divider Pocket piece right side

up. Place the fabric from the previous step right side

down onto the Divider Pocket, with the zipper at the top.

Pin in place. Sew directly on top of the stitching from the

previous step.

22. Turn the fabrics from the previous step so that

they are wrong sides together. Press.

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23

23. Repeat Steps 20-22 for the other side of the zipper

and the remaining 7” edges of both of the same Divider

Panels, respectively. Press. When finished, it should look

like a zipper pouch, but with unfinished sides (the bottom

edge should be folded). Remove the zipper foot from your

machine.

Helpful Hint: The dimensions of the finished Divider Panel

(with raw side edges) should be 7” long x 3-1/2” tall.

24. Place the raw edge of the Divider Pocket inside

the inner v-shaped pocket of the Accordion. Pin. Repeat to

pin the remaining raw edge of the Divider Pockets into the

second Accordion.

25. Sew along each pressed edge of the Accordion

using a 1/4” seam allowance.

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24

Assemble the Lining

26. Draw a vertical line on the left half of the Lining

Main Panel that is 1/4” above the lowest Card Slot.

27. On the left-hand edge of the Lining Main Panel,

place the top end of the Accordion just below the line that

you drew. The raw edge of the Accordion should be even

with the side of the Lining Main Panel. Pin, then baste in

place using a 1/8” seam allowance.

28. Still on the left-hand edge of the Lining Main

Panel, place the bottom end of the Accordion just below

the line that you drew. The raw edge of the Accordion

should be even with the side of the Lining Main Panel. Pin,

then baste in place using a 1/8” seam allowance.

29. Repeat Steps 26-28 to attach the remaining side of the Accordion to the right-hand edge of the Lining Main

Panel.

Finish the Wallet

30. Take one Zipper Tab. Press in half along the long

edge, right sides together, so that both short edges meet.

Press. Also press in 1/4” at the top and bottom. Fold the

top of the fabric down to the crease, this time so that the

wrong side is facing you. Open out again, then fold the

other edge in to meet the crease and press. Fold the

entire piece along the first fold and press. You should

have created a tiny piece of double-fold tape, wrong side

of the fabric facing you.

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25

31. Fold the tab in half, right sides together. Fold

the two short edges down, 1/4”, to the wrong side.

Stitch along the two raw edges. Turn right side out and

press (the sides should be sewn, and the front and back

should have the enclosed pressed edge).

32. Trim your zipper so that it is exactly 18” long.

33. Slide the bottom end of the zipper in between

the Zipper Tab, with the end of the zipper hitting the

center crease. Pin in place. Topstitch the fabric 1/8”

from the zipper.

34. Place the lining in front of you. Unzip the zipper.

Begin with the edge of the zipper that is not enclosed in

the Zipper Tab. With the zipper face up, start with the

left-hand edge (place it on the left side where the

divider begins), tapering the zipper slightly off the fabric.

Begin easing the zipper around the edges of the wallet,

pinning as you go. The edge of the zipper tape should

be aligned with the raw edge of the Lining Main Panel.

Continue until you reach the opposite left-hand side on

the Lining Main Panel. The zipper with the Zipper Tab

will be extending slightly past the end of the Lining Main

Panel.

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26

35. Repeat the previous step to attach the right-hand

edge of the zipper to the right half of the Lining Main

Panel.

36. Sew along the pinned edge.

Helpful Hint: Because the Accordion does not allow the wallet to fully open flat, this part of the process requires a bit of

patience, and is the reason that I rated Wallet #3 as an advanced level pattern. It’s not the most fun part of the pattern,

but I think the results will be worth it. You will likely not be able to sew down into the v-shaped crevice; I recommend

sewing those bits by hand. In fact, I sewed my entire binding on by hand (although some parts can be done with your

sewing machine).

37. Place the Exterior Main Panel wrong side up. Place the Lining Main Panel directly on top, face up so that wrong

sides are facing. If you decided to use the optional Peltex, slide it in between the lining/exterior sandwich at this time.

Pin. Press one end of your bias tape in by 1/2”, and beginning with that end of the tape, begin pinning the bias tape all

along the edge of the wallet. Sew in the first pressed edge of the bias tape; again, you may need to sew some parts by

hand or use your zipper foot here.

38. Flip the bias tape toward the

lining side of the wallet. Sew by hand to

secure the binding in place.

Helpful Hint: Here is a close-up photo of

the corner with the zipper tab. Hopefully

you can see that there is approximately 2”

of the zipper end that is not enclosed in

the bias tape.

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27

Congratulations, you’ve finished!

Need help?? E-mail me any time at [email protected]

Please add your finished bag to my Flickr group! http://www.flickr.com/groups/sewsweetness/

Copyright ©Sew Sweetness 2013

Pattern Cover designed by Alison Glass.

http://www.sewsweetness.com

Please check out my site for free tutorials on bags and bag-making techniques!

Sewn items made from Sew Sweetness sewing patterns may be sold by the home sewist at craft fairs and on-line.

Page 29: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

Sew SweetnessGreenbacks Wallet Trio - #1

Main Panel Pattern Piece

Cut 2 exterior fabricCut 2 fusible fleece

1" square

Page 30: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

1" square

Cut on the fold

Main Pan

el Pattern Piece

Cut 1 exterior fabric

Cut 1 lining

fabric

Cut 1 Soft and

Stable

Cut 1 Sha

pe Flex

Sew

Sweetness

Greenbacks Wallet T

rio - #2

Page 31: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

Sew SweetnessGreenbacks Wallet Trio - #2

Pocket Pattern Piece

Cut 2 exterior fabricCut 2 Shape Flex

Front Closure

Cut 4 exterior fabric

Cut 4 Sha

pe Flex

Sew

Sweetness

Greenbacks Wallet T

rio - #2

Page 32: Sweetness Sew Greenbacks Wallet Trio - Crafty Gemini · pattern pieces, always make sure your printer is set to scaling at ‘none’ so pieces print at correct size. Helpful Hint:

Cut on the fold

Main Pan

el Pattern Piece

Cut 1 exterior fabric

Cut 1 lining

fabric

Cut 1 Soft and

Stable

Cut 1 Sha

pe Flex

Sew

Sweetness

Greenbac ks Wallet T

rio - #3

1" square