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Sustainable apparel How brands can improve their value chain environmental footprint – and make it payA day of leading analysis, debate, discussion and networking19th April 2016 | Inmarsat Conference Centre, London

With focused debates and practical working sessions on:

How do we achieve actual transparency and traceability at the start of the value chain?

What can and have brands done to achieve 100% cotton sustainability?

How can brands and suppliers be smarter with sustainable water use?

How can chemical use be more sustainable and less harmful across the supply chain?

How can we make circular apparel more mainstream?

Tamsin Lejeune CEO Ethical Fashion Forum

Marcus Bergman head of sustainability Gina Tricot

Anna-Karin Dahlberg production support manager Lindex

Charles Dickinson environmental sustainability controller – ethical trade Primark

Catarina Midby sustainability manager H&M

Esther Verburg vice president corporate responsibility PVH Europe/Tommy Hilfiger Global

Christoph Kaut managing director Cotton made in Africa

Melissa Shinn global campaign strategist – Detox Greenpeace

Three things you will get from this conference

Focused sessions – discuss the issues that matter to you and your peers.

Senior participants – big companies, smaller brands, NGOs, multi-stakeholder initiatives and sceptical experts debating what can be done to drive the sustainability agenda in the apparel industry.

Candid dialogue – open discussion between companies about their experiences, successes and off the record challenges.

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• Focused debate• Senior participants• Candid dialogue

Agenda – 19th April 2016

Welcome and opening remarks

Tobias Webb, founder, Innovation Forum

The state of play: sustainability in fashionThis opening session will consider the importance of an industry-wide understanding of environmental impacts throughout the supply chain from farm to fast fashion and how circular economy practices can be integrated.

Apparel brands have historically focused on social issues, which often leaves an environmental information gap. In recent years, and particularly now following the COP21 summit in Paris, there has been heightened awareness of the risks presented by climate change and the harmful effects of the apparel industry on the environment. Brands have been increasingly targeted and put under pressure to react to their environmental footprints. For instance, encouraged by Greenpeace’s Detox campaign, 34 brands and suppliers committed to removing harmful chemicals from their supply chains as of January 2016– but how effective have these and other efforts been in total so far?

In this session we’ll ask our panel of experts, who will focus on the impact of the apparel industry, a number of key questions:

• how are companies throughout the supply chain addressing the most pressing challenges?

• what are the best solutions and new technologies, and how can they can help?

• how can emerging disruptive ideas help solve some of the environmental difficulties in global textiles production, and where should brands step up?

Tamsin Lejeune, CEO, Ethical Fashion Forum

Esther Verburg, VP corporate responsibility, PVH Europe/Tommy Hilfiger Global

Felix Rauer, senior manager corporate responsibility, Otto Group

Melissa Shinn, global campaign strategist – Detox, Greenpeace

Case study: sustainable water use and competitive collaboration The World Bank estimates that around 20% of industrial freshwater pollution is caused by the textile industry. This thirsty industry is, for example, the largest industrial water polluter in India. With an increasing stress on water security it’s now vital for companies to develop cleaner production programmes to bring their water usage down. Many are doing so, and here we’ll explore best practice.

This session will look at a water management project among textile suppliers in India, led by the Stockholm International Water Institute and Swedish fashion brands Indiska, KappAhl and Lindex.

The panellists will discuss what manufacturers can do to face the water challenge and significantly reduce their water footprints, as well as gain financially.

Anna-Karin Dahlberg, production support manager, Lindex

Fredrika Klarén, sustainability manager, KappAhl

Maya Rebermark, communications manager, Stockholm International Water Institute

Cotton farming: how can brands drive sustainability at the start of the supply chain? Over 100 million farmers grow and harvest cotton across five different continents. Cotton farming has a serious impact on ecosystems and thus poses serious environmental challenges, largely associated with high water and energy use.

Our panel will discuss how front-runner brands and retailers can build confidence in the sustainable cotton industry while also building their brand and reputation. We will hear from Primark about some lessons learned from working with farmers in India and how they have succeeded in implementing better farming techniques to reduce water and pesticides use.

BCI, Cotton made in Africa and Solidaridad will provide recommendations for overcoming the barriers of market uptake and how good practices can lead to improved quality of cotton and improve the business case for sustainability.

Ruchira Joshi, programme director – demand, Better Cotton Initiative

Isabelle Roger, cotton programme senior manager, Solidaridad

Charles Dickinson, environmental sustainability controller – ethical trade, Primark

Christoph Kaut, managing director, Cotton Made in Africa

Agenda – 19th April 2016

Suppliers and catalysing action breakoutsThe opportunity for focused debate and practical workshop sessions facilitated by experts. Sessions include:

Breakout option 1 Supplier performance: how to meaningfully engage suppliers on environmental improvements

A significant amount of a brand’s environmental footprint falls within the manufacturing stage. It is, however, a big challenge for brands to engage with their supply chains and it should therefore be a major area of effort and focus. In this session we look at some carrot and stick approaches:

• getting suppliers engaged with environmental issues

• asking what exactly management approaches should entail

• detailing the economic signals the purchasing company has to give in order to incentivise environmental performance

Stuart Harker, managing director, FTA – Business Environmental Performance Initiative

Carl Peltzer, trader, Cargill Cotton

Liesl Truscott, European and materials strategy director, TextileExchange

Breakout option 2

Tanneries: how should industry be engaging to end leather supply chain cases such as the Hazaribagh tanneries in Bangladesh ?

Human Rights Watch has reported on the leather tanneries in the Hazaribagh neighbourhood of Dhaka, Bangladesh, saying that many workers have become ill because of exposure to hazardous chemicals. Hazaribagh is the location of 90-95% of all tanneries in Bangladesh – with around 150 tanneries in total.

This session will give an overview of the situation in Bangladesh and we will ask HRW to explain the efforts being made and ask a brand about the challenges they face. The Leather Working Group’s Adam Hughes will also be asked to explain LWG’s auditing and approval processes and what companies can do engage with tanneries better.

Kate Larsen, EU advocate garment-footwear supply chains, Human Rights Watch

Adam Hughes, facilitator, Leather Working Group

Breakout option 3

Viscose and endangered forests

Until recently, the relationship between the fashion industry and deforestation was largely undocumented. Recent research by Canopy found that forests in Indonesia, Canada’s boreal and temperate rainforests, and the Amazon are being logged for the manufacture of pulp that is dissolved to produce fabrics such as viscose. Marks & Spencer have made this a propriety issues and are developing forest-friendly purchasing policies, tracking the forests their fabrics originate in, taking steps to eliminate controversial forest fibre and investing in innovative alternatives. We will hear about the company’s work and debate the challenges it faces in implementation.

Nicole Rycroft, founder and executive director, Canopy

Fiona Wheatley, sustainable development manager, Marks & Spencer

Richard Donovan, senior vice president & vice president of forestry, Rainforest Alliance

Peter Bartsch, head of corporate sustainability, Lenzing

Manohar Samuel, president-marketing, Aditya Birla

Sustainable design breakouts

Breakout option 1 Circular fashion: how can brands implement circularity throughout their operations?

Nudie Jeans has adopted an innovative sustainability approach focused around key issues such as recycling, reuse and organic sourcing. Since reaching its goal of a 100% organic cotton collection in 2006, Nudie has come up with many ways to reduce, repair and recycle fabrics.

We’ll ask Eliina Brinkberg from Nudie what the company has learned from asking challenging questions, how the company talks to customers and what its key challenges and opportunities are.

Eliina Brinkberg, CSR manager, Nudie Jeans

Breakout option 2 Innovation and future materials: what do we have and what do we need?

Over 70m tonnes of textile waste end up in landfill globally, meaning there is a copious amount of suitable material available for reuse. This session will look at innovation and will discuss some of the key transformative and enabling technologies existing and in development. We will focus on the rise in sustainable fibres ranging from hemp to synthetics to recycled.

Marcus Bergman, head of sustainability, Gina Tricot

Petri Alava, CEO, The Infinited Fiber Company

Rebecca Earley, director, Textile Futures Research Centre

Breakout option 3 Sustainable chemical management in the supply chain

Melissa Shinn, global campaign strategist – Detox, Greenpeace

Gareth Mottram, commercial director, Páramo Directional Clothing

Nina Fabreg, environmental specialist / corporate social responsibility, Mango

Traceability: how technology can help companies scale and identify issues and make better decisionsMeasuring environmental footprints in the supply chain can be difficult, but traceability is a key tool to provide information about companies’ environmental impacts. Our panel will help us understand the importance of mapping raw materials in the upstream supply chain and how technology can help to deliver results.

The Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform (RESP) has set objectives to create and maintain transparent supply chains that ensure the traceability of raw materials from origin to final product. We will hear from RESP on technologies used to determine best-practices and benchmarks related to sourcing activities and traceability systems.

Nick Earlam, CEO at Plexus, will discuss how the company works retailers and brands to build reliable and cost-efficient structures within their supply chains, all the way from farm to finished product. Marks & Spencer has a 2020 target to source 70% of its cotton from sustainable sources. Phil Townsend will give some information on their progress so far and how they have been able to ensure these targets are being met.

Nick Earlam, chief executive officer, Plexus Cotton

Matteo Ghedini, project leader, Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform

Yuri Saito, associate economic affairs officer, UNECE

Phil Townsend, sustainable raw materials specialist, Marks & Spencer

Conclusion: Corporate Perspective In this closing session we will ask Anna Maria Rugarli and Felix Rauer to explain why sustainability is not just risk management and how it can be leveraged at corporate level and across brands to add value to the business. VF Corporation has done much work in the sustainability space and Anna Maria will bring the business case to life through some key brand examples.

Otto Group, having made the commitment to 100% sustainable cotton by 2020, will tell their story of reaching this goal and how being sustainable at the start of the value chain is so important.

We will conclude the day with some practical tips on engaging brands in the apparel value chain from farm to finished product to consumers. And finally, we will look at the shift towards integrating sustainability into mainstream marketing.

Felix Rauer, senior manager corporate responsibility, Otto Group

Anna Maria Rugarli, sustainability & corporate social responsibility director, VF Corporation

Agenda – 19th April 2016

• Tamsin Lejeune CEO Ethical Fashion Forum

• Anna-Karin Dahlberg production support manager Lindex

• Charles Dickinson environmental sustainability controller – ethical trade Primark

• Esther Verburg VP corporate responsibility PVH Europe/Tommy Hilfiger Global

• Christoph Kaut managing director Cotton made in Africa

• Anna Maria Rugarli sustainability & corporate social responsibility director VF Corporation

• Eliina Brinkberg CSR manager Nudie Jeans

• Nicole Rycroft founder and executive director Canopy

• Fiona Wheatley sustainable development manager Marks and Spencer

• Richard Donovan senior vice president & vice president of forestry Rainforest Alliance

• Peter Bartsch head of corporate sustainability Lenzing

• Fredrika Klarén sustainability manager KappAhl

• Nina Fabreg environmental specialist / corporate social responsibility Mango

• Melissa Shinn global campaign strategist – Detox Greenpeace

• Phil Townsend sustainable raw materials specialist Marks & Spencer

• Maya Rebermark communications manager Stockholm International Water Institute

• Matteo Ghedini project leader Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform

• Adam Hughes facilitator Leather Working Group

• Ruchira Joshi programme director – demand Better Cotton Initiative

• Isabelle Roger cotton programme senior manager Solidaridad

• Carl Peltzer trader Cargill Cotton

• Marcus Bergman head of sustainability Gina Tricot

• Stuart Harker managing director FTA – Business Environmental Performance Initiative

• Petri Alava CEO The Infinited Fiber Company

• Kate Larsen EU advocate garment-footwear supply chains Human Rights Watch

• Liesl Truscott European and materials strategy director TextileExchange

• Rebecca Earley director Textile Futures Research Centre (TFRC)

• Felix Rauer senior manager corporate responsibility Otto Group

• Nick Earlam chief executive officer Plexus Cotton

• Yuri Saito associate economic affairs officer UNECE

Speakers include:

Key questions you may be asking

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?What is the background and purpose of this conference?This conference builds on the success of several Innovation Forum business conferences including our forums on Ethical Trade and Human Rights and Sustainable Cotton Sourcing. Both these events created a great amount of interest and attracted the leading brands, experts and commentators who were keen to learn from their peers about the environmental impacts of the apparel industry.

This year’s conference is a platform for discussion on the major environmental risks across the apparel value chain, and how business can help to enhance their sustainability practices and make it pay.

Who will be in the room? 100 managers, directors, and heads of department will attend the conference from leading fashion and apparel brands, retailers, suppliers and traders. They’ll be joined by key NGOs, government officials, and multi-stakeholder initiatives.

What’s different about this conference?1) Held under the Chatham House rule – this event is not intended as a PR platform – we hold the event

under a covenant of confidentiality to promote honest exchange.

2) We bring big companies and the challenging ethical brands together. We believe this helps produce insight and drive solutions.

3) We provide genuine debate: We don’t do waffle, PPT or corporate videos. We do this via short, sharp debate sessions, Q&As and facilitated dialogue.

4) We’re completely pragmatic and solutions focused. We don’t allow our events to get bogged down in overly technical arguments.

5) We’re highly connected with big business. We have a database of more than 20,000 executives all focused on sustainable business. We bring new parties to traditional areas in a different style.

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Download our reports for freeThe management briefing that complements this event has been put together as a result of extensive cross-industry research with the leading experts in the field. Written by expert contributors, the report covers the current state of play in the industry as well as assessing and analysing the practical steps companies can take, and the challenges/ opportunities that will result.

The report is an incredibly useful tool in itself, but also works well to set the scene for discussion at the conference.

For more information contact natasha.bodnar@innovation-forum.co.uk

http://innovation-forum.co.uk/sustainable-apparel-forum

Sustainable apparel How brands can improve their value chain environmental footprint – and make it payA day of leading analysis, debate, discussion and networking19th April 2016 | Inmarsat Conference Centre, London

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Supply Chain Risk & Innovation is the new subscription publication for business, packed with concise, practical insight into global supply chains.

Required reading for senior management, buyers and sustainability professionals, the publication is published ten times a year.

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From the sample edition:

• Toyota’s carbon-neutral hydrogen supply features as innovation of the month

• Carlsberg creates a circular approach to close the loop on its drinks packaging

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• A sector snapshot on palm oil• Download the sample issue here

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oliver.bamford@innovation-forum.co.uk

www.innovation-forum.co.uk

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