social report...product sustainability, as well as protecting the environment and climate...
TRANSCRIPT
soCialreport
2018/2019
inde
xINdex
soCial report 02 soCial report 03
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04 07
03
06
02
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sustainability is an integral part of JaCK WolfsKin‘s dna
from page 8
soCial responsibility is highly prioritised
•Responsibleprocurementandproductionplanning
• Transparent,long-termbusinessrelationshipswith
ourmanufacturingpartners
•CommitmenttoLivingWages
from page 12
JaCK WolfsKin‘s Commitment beyond its CommerCial operations
• JACKWOLFSKINtransparentlydisclosesitssupply
chain
•Wheredoesmyproductoriginate?
• Proactiveandopendialoguewithourstakeholders
•Commitmenttosocialresponsibilityat
JACKWOLFSKINheadquarters
from page 60
eduCational measures to improve soCial sustainability in the supply Chain
• Effectivetrainingon-siteatmanufacturingfacilities
•Continuouslyraisingawarenessamongourown
employees
from page 46
established system to seCure so-Cial standards in manufaCturing faCilities
• Annualauditstoeffectivelyestablishhigher
socialstandards
• Straightforwardandsystematicassessment
aswellasindividualimprovementmeasures
•Ratingresultsfor2018/2019inoverview
•Manufacturingfacilitiesinfiscalyear2018/2019-
Overview
from page 30
goals for
from page 64
JaCK WolfsKin responds to Complaints Coming from manufaCturing faCilities
• Themechanisminthecomplaintsprocedure:
opendialoguewithallstakeholders
•Overviewofcomplaintcasesinfiscalyear2018/2019
from page 52
2020
THIS ISW H ATWE‘REDOING
DearReader,
Sinceourbeginningsin1981,sustainabilityhasbeenfunda-mental toourcompany’sendeavours.Back then-whenwewere just an ambitious, small Outdoor company - it was agiven thatwewanted tomanufactureproducts thatmet thehighesttechnicalandqualitystandards.Rightfromthestart,productsweredesignedtobedurableandsustainable.There-fore,asearlyas1981,weestablishedtherepairserviceandsince2015ourwaterproofingservicetoextendthelife-spanofJACKWOLFSKINproducts.
Over time,we as a company have continuously evolved ourcommitment tosustainability.Weare longstandingmembersoftheGloballyrecognizedSustainableorganisations:theFairWearFoundation(FWF)andbluesignandgladlycommittothewidespreadmeasures.We are quite proud that last year the FWF has recognized us as a LEADER for the 5th time in a row. This isnotamatterofcourse,asFWF’srequirementsareenhancedeachyearaccordingtothedevelopmentsintheGlobalenvironment.WestronglyidentifywithFWF’sambitiousobjectives–tojoinforceswithourmanufacturingpartners–toestablishfairandsafeworkingconditionsattheirfacilities.
Weareparticularlyproudofourcommitmenttoinnovateintermsofproductsustainability.Ourprioritieswillbetherecyclingofplastics,activelyreducingwasteandasignificantreductionofwaterconsumptioninthemanufacturingprocess.Wehavein-troducedthefirstfullyrecycled,highlyfunctionalandwaterproofmembranetothemarketin2017.Furthermore,weusedyeingandfinishingtechnologiesthatrequiresignificantly lesswaterandchemicalsascomparedtoconventionalmethods.Inthefu-ture,wewillcontinuetosubstantiallyinvestinresource-savingproducts, technologies as well as manufacturing processes.
THERE IS ONLY ONE EARTH - LET’S DO OUR PART TOPRESERVEANDPROTECTIT!
MelodyHarris-JensbachCEOJACKWOLFSKIN
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EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL
EMPLOYEESNo. of JACK WoLfSKIN
in GErManY:
545MELODY HarriS-JEnSBaCH (CEo)MarKUS BÖTSCH (CSo)anTE FraniCEViC(Cfo)aLEXanDEr HaUSEr(Coo)
Executive directors are:
733 STOrES4000
JACK WoLfSKIN
und more than
SaLES POinTSworldwide
products are available in
1981JaCK WOLFSKinWaS FOUnDED in
68PrODUCTiOnFaCiLiTiESthroughout the world
(Apparel, footwear, Equipment)collaborating with
PrODUCT DiViSiOnS
3There is
inDiViDUaLS
arE WOMEn
122,483
77 %work in the production facilities manufacturing JaCK WOLFSKin products. of those,
Since its foundation in 1981, JaCK WOLFSKin has offered a rEPair SErViCE to extend the lifespan of JACK WoLfSKIN products for as long as possible. In 2015, this service was complemented by a professional WaSHinG anD rE-iMPrEGnaTiOn SErViCE.
SuSTAINAbIlITy IS AN INTEGRAl pART Of JACK WOlfSKIN’S DNA
We’reathomeoutdoors.Forus,there’snobetterplace.We’redrawntowideopenspacesandwedrawstrengthfromslowingdown.Weseekexperiencesratherthantopperformance.Wearedrivenbyfreshideasandthepassiontodesignoutstandingproducts.Wearecommittedtofunctionality.Ourproductsshallofferprotection,keepwarmanddry,andbecomfortableatthesametime.Reliableformanyyears.Node-tailistooinsignificantfornottobeimprovedupon.Werespectnature’sdiversityandalllivingthings.Ourearthissimplythemostbeautifulplaceintheuniverseandit’stheonlyonewehave.Wedoeverythingwecantoprotectitandwishtoexperienceandshareitwitheveryone.
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01
Actively assuming social responsibility is a vital part of ourself-conceptaswellasourcorporateculture-eversinceourcompanywasfoundedin1981.Wefirmlybelievethatfairnessaswellasenvironmentalandsocialresponsibilitydonotcon-flictwithourcompany’ssuccess.We regardsustainabilityasbeingself-evident.Therefore,weemphasizefunctionalityandlongevityaswellascontemporarydesigns.Thesecriteriaapplytoourthreebusinesssegmentsapparel,equipmentandfoot-wear.Wearecommittedtoreducingourproducts’andmanu-facturingprocesses’ ecological footprints.Equallydedicated,weassumesocialresponsibilityinregardtoourmanufacturingpartnersworldwide.
In 2015, the United Nations passed its Agenda 2030. Thisagendasets17goalsforsustainabledevelopmentonaglobalscale-aptlycalled“SustainableDevelopmentGoals”.Theyfol-lowtheguidingprincipleofgloballyestablishinghumanelivingconditions.Itconcernsallofus-henceweareallcalledupontocontributetoanenvironmentworthlivingin.Also,toasocietyinwhicheveryonecanleadafulfilledandself-determinedlife.WeatJACKWOLFSKINfullyembracethevisionbehindtheseSustainableDevelopmentGoals.
JACK WOlfSKIN - HIGH-quAlITy OuTDOOR pRODuCTS Of TImElESS AppEAl
OuR COmmITmENT TO uN’S SuSTAINAblE DEvElOpmENT GOAlS
SUSTAINABIL ITY IS AN INTEGRALPARTOFJACKWOLFSKIN’SDNA
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Accordingly,weconstantlyimproveandenhanceourcommit-menttotheenvironment-oneverylevel.Anincreasingnum-berofourproductsismanufacturedfromrecycledmaterials.CompletelyeliminatingPFCinourproductsisatangibleob-jective- infact, inourdepartmentsApparelandEquipment,this has alreadybeen accomplished.Already today,we usecertified organic cotton only and our down is sourced fromspecies-appropriate animal husbandry, certified accordingto the “Responsible Down Standard”. Also, we advocate aresponsiblechemicalandenvironmentalmanagement inoursupply chain, in compliancewith the bluesign® system.Wehave been a partner of this system since 2011, so by nowthemajorityofourmaterialscomplywithbluesign®system’s
pRODuCT SuSTAINAbIlITy, AS WEll AS pROTECTING THE ENvIRONmENT AND ClImATE
Responsiblerelationshipswithoursuppliersandmanufacturingfacilitiesfurthermoreconstituteoneofthemostimportantfoun-dationsofourcorporateoperations.Wearecommitted to fairworkingconditions,reasonableworkinghours,safeworkplacesandfairwages.Transparently,wediscloseoursupplychainsandopenlyreport,forinstance,thelatestprogressinlocallyimple-mentingsocialstandardsinspecificmanufacturingfacilities.Ourmanufacturingpartnersmustcommit toourCodeofConduct.We in turnoffer support, so theycan implement improvementmeasuresandthusmeetourstrictstandards.Jointly,wehavealreadyachievedconsiderableprogress-andtogetherwewillcontinuealong thispath.TheFWFprovidessupport for theseefforts.
TheFWFisanindependent,non-profitorganisationworkingonmanylevelstoimproveworkingconditionsinthetextileindus-try.To thisend, theFWFsetsstrictstandards.Furthermore, it
SOCIAl RESpONSIbIlITy
requirements. Furthermore,we strictlymonitor harmful sub-stancess,not just inourproducts,butalsoon-siteinmanu-facturingfacilities.Thisisaccomplishedthroughcomprehen-sive listsofhazardoussubstances,whicharebanned inourfinishedproductsaswellas inallmanufacturingprocesses.Furthermore, sewage is routinely monitored in all facilities.Our sustainability goals motivate us to continue along thispathanddevelopenvironmentallyfriendlyaswellasinnova-tivematerialsinthefuture.
We continuously post details on the latest status on our website: https://www.jack-wolfskin.com/corporate-responsibility/.
develops sensible and fitting strategies for manufacturing fa-cilitiesworldwide, collaboratingwith all stakeholders involved.ThosestakeholdersareFWFmembercompanies,suchasJackWolfskin, but also non-profit, non-governmental organisations(NGOs),employers’andemployees’associationsinAsiaandEu-rope,aswellasgovernmentrepresentatives.JACKWOLFSKINhasbeenFWFmembersince2010-alogicalstepafterhavingestablishedourownindependentprogrammeformanagingso-cialsustainabilityinoursupplychainsasearlyas2007.Inthisreportwepresentourcommitment tosocial responsibilityandprovideadetailedaccountregardingfinancialyear2018/2019.
Status updates are continuously provided via our website: https://www.jack-wolfskin.com/corporate-responsibility/.
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SOCIAl RESpONSIbIlITy IS HIGHly pRIORITISED
Wedonotoperateourownproductionfacilities;instead,wecollaboratewithcom-paniesmanufacturingourproductsundercontract.Thefundamentalprerequisitefor collaboratingwith anymanufacturing partner is their commitment to complywithoursocialguidelinesaswellasFWFrequirements.
02
As we do not operate our own production facilities, we rely on manufacturing partners. These are our primary business partners where we commission our products’ final manufacture. Some of our partners operate in several locations; therefore, we generally establish immediate communication with individual manufacturing sites. This way we optimise the individual collaboration according to local conditions and circumstances.
Infiscalyear2018/2019,ourproductsweremanufacturedin12countries; themajorityof thesecountriesare located inAsia.ThelargestpartofourproductionvolumeoriginatesfromViet-nam,followedbyBangladesh,ChinaandCambodia.Asmallerpart of our production volume is sourced from manufactur-ingpartnersinafewEuropeancountries.Manyofourclassicfleeceproducts,forinstance,aremanufacturedbyalong-termpartnerinTurkey.
In the year under review, we maintained active ties to 68manufacturing facilities. This number includes our immedi-atemanufacturing partners aswell as subcontractors com-missionedbyourpartners.Ourpartnersdonotonlyworkforus, but also for other client companies.We therefore sharetheproductioncapacityavailableatindividualmanufacturingfacilities.Withinthescopeofourcollaboration,weaspiretooccupyaconsiderablevolumeoftherespectivecapacityofamanufacturingfacility,though.Thisallowsourordervolumestobeofgreatersignificancetotherespectivepartner.Subse-quently,wemaymoreemphaticallydemand implementationofoursocialstandardsandthusparticipatemoreeffectivelyinpositivechanges.
In2018/2019,87%ofourproductionvolumeoriginated frommanufacturing facilities inwhich our orders accounted for atleast 10% of the respective revenue. That part of our ordervolume originated from facilities in which our order volumeoccupied a relatively small share of production capacity, islargelyduetoourbroadproductrange.Weofferourcustom-ersanabundanceofoutdoorproducts:anextensiverangeoffunctionalapparel;manydifferentbags,backpacks,tentsandsleepingbags,drinkingbottles,mats,uptofootwearforvari-ouspurposes.Consequently, ourmanufacturingpartners arehighly specialised in terms of the respective machinery andhavespecific,long-standingexperienceinthemanufactureofspecialisedproducts.
pROCuREmENT COuNTRIES AND mANufACTuRING pARTNERS
Ourproductrangeishighlydiversified;therefore,wecollaboratewith various specialisedmanufacturing partners.However,weintendtoconsolidatethenumberofmanufacturingpartnersasmuchaspossible.Thisallowsustobuild individualaswellaslong-lasting relationshipswithourmanufacturingpartners andjointlyestablishasociallyresponsibleprocurement.
responsible proCurement and produCtion planning
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SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
Thoughwealwaysaspiretomaintainlong-termrelationshipswithourmanufacturingpartners,fromtimetotimewearerequiredtoestablishnewpartnerships.Thisisduetovariousreasons:
Expansionofourproductrangewithaproductcategory thatnoneofourcurrentpartnersiscapableof manufacturing.
Insufficientlong-termproductioncapacitiesand,asa result,overloadingoftherespectivemanufacturing facilities.
Establishmentofanewmanufacturingfacilitybyan existingpartner,whoasksustosupportthesetup oftherespectivefacility.
Integrationofasubcontractorintoanexisting manufacturingprocessinordertocompensateproduction peaks.
Terminationofacollaborationbyamanufacturingpartner, forinstanceifthepartnerwishestochangehisstrategic focus.
Non-compliancewithourstrictsocialand/orhigh-quality standardsbyamanufacturingpartner
Ifanyoneofthesescenariosbecomesareality,wethoroughlyevaluatethepotentialnewmanufacturingpartnerbeforeestab-lishinganew,potentiallylong-termcollaboration.
NEW mANufACTuRING pARTNERS
Basisofanycollaborationiscompliancewithourcodeofcon-duct.However,furthercriteriasuchasqualityordeliverytimesandcostsmustalsomeetourexpectations.Priortoacollabo-ration,wethoroughlyassesspotentialmanufacturingpartnersaccordingly.Tothisend,weemployapre-definedassessmentmethoddesigned toprovideaconsistentand fairevaluation.On initialcontact,wegatherall relevantdetails regarding themanufacturingfacility.Then,oursourcingteamconductsafirston-site inspection to evaluate the manufacturing process. Ifthisevaluationaswellasasubsequentinternalmeetinghaveapositiveoutcome,wewillprovideourrequirementsspecifica-tioninthenextstep.Thesespecificationsreflectourstandardsin termsofquality aswell aspackaging, logistics and trans-port.Furthermore,thespecificationscontainourrequirementsregardingmanagement of hazardous substances andchemi-calsaswellasthecodeofconductdefiningtherequiredsocialstandards.Toestablishabindingcollaboration,thefuturepart-nermustsignawrittenconfirmationthatthecodeofconductwillbecompliedwith.Simultaneously,wewillplaceatrialordertoevaluatetheinteractionwiththemanufacturingfacility.With-inthreemonths,weconductaninitialsocialauditonsite;thisallowsustoassessatanearlystagetowhatextentourCodeofConductrequirementshavealreadybeenimplemented.Thefindingsof this initialauditwilldecisively influencewhetheralong-termcollaborationisdesirable.Formoredetailsonsocialaudits,pleaserefertopage30etseqq.
OurCodeofConductisbasedontheHumanRightsCharteroftheUnitedNationsaswellastheconventionsoftheInternationalLabourOrganisation(ILO).Itisabindingelementofeverycon-tractualrelationshipwithourmanufacturingpartners.OurCodeofConductincludesthefollowingrequirements,whichmustbecompliedwithbyeachindividualmanufacturingfacility:
ThecompleteCodeofConductmayalsobefoundonourwebsite:https://www.jack-wolfskin.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-JackWolfskin_SharedContentLib/default/dw5ad3c4c4/PDFs/Code_of_Conduct_English_Stand_01-2011_new.pdf
SElECTION pROCESS AND ASSESSmENT Of NEW mANufACTuRING pARTNERS
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Discriminationintheworkplaceisstrictlyprohibited.
Freedomofassociationandtherighttocollectivebargainingisgranted.
Workplaceenvironmentsmustbesafeandhealth-compatible.
Wagesshallbesufficienttosecurelivelihoods.
Eachemployeemusthavealegallybindingemploymentcontract.
Workinghoursmustbefair.
Environmentalprotectionmustberespected.
Childlabourisstrictlyprohibited.
Forcedlabourisstrictlyprohibited
OuR CODE Of CONDuCT
Weauditourmanufacturingpartnersnotjustattheverybegin-ning of a collaboration. Throughout the further course of ourpartnership,wecontinuetoassesstwiceayear,whethermanu-facturingpartners continue tomeet required social aswell asquality standards. This assessment is conducted interdiscipli-nary,involvingourdepartmentsProcurement,Technical&Qual-ityAssurance,LogisticsandVendorControl-ourteamrespon-sible forsustainability.Weauditeach individualmanufacturingfacility,applyingacomprehensivecatalogueofcriteriaaswellasastandardisedevaluationmatrix.Thisprovidesallparticipatingdepartmentswithaccurate informationoneachmanufacturingfacility‘sstrengthsandshortcomings,aswellasonitsprogress.Wetransparentlyshareallauditresultswiththerespectiveman-
Long-termcollaborationwithamanufacturingpartnermaynotbepossibleatalltimes.Terminationofacollaborationmaybeinitiatedfrombothpartiesinvolved.Usually,thisdecisionispre-cededbya lengthyprocess inwhich improvementmeasureshad been jointly devised, alsowe usually had offered activesupportineliminatingdeficiencies.Irrelevanttothiscontextisthe type of any shortcomings. Thesemight be quality prob-lems,difficultiesinmeetingsocialorenvironmentalstandards,consistentlypoordeliveryperformance,aswellasmanyotheraspects.Weintendtoterminateacollaborationjustasrespon-siblyasithadbeeninitiated.Thus,wenotifyourmanufacturingpartner well in advance, and only then gradually reduce ourordervolume.Thisallowsthemanufacturingpartnertoadapttothechangesandadjustproductionplanning.
fREquENT ASSESSmENT Of mANufACTuRING pARTNERS
TERmINATION Of COllAbORATION
ufacturingpartner,anddevisean individualplan forcorrectiveaction. This plan is to be carefully implemented via improve-mentmeasures by both ourmanufacturing partner aswell asus. Hence, we establish a continuous improvement process,individual toeachmanufacturing facility.Thefindingsof thesefrequentaudits,aswellastheimplementationoftherespectiveimprovementmeasures, directly influence future collaboration:Upon positive assessment aswell as successful implementa-tionofimprovementmeasures,weaspiretograduallyincreaseourordervolume,providedfreeproductioncapacityisavailable.Uponnegativeassessment, or if improvementmeasureswerefailedtobeimplemented,weintendtograduallyreduceouror-dervolume.
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
Wehighlyvalue -andcultivate - stable, long-termandclosebusiness relationships with our manufacturing partners. In2018/2019,56%ofourproductionvolumewereorderedfrompartnersthatwehavebeencollaboratingwithforaminimumof5years.Someofthesepartnershipsreachbackmorethantenyears,inoneparticularcaseeven26years.Thislong-termap-proachisofutmostimportancebothtousaswellasourmanu-facturers.Itallowsourpartnerstoexpectsoundaswellasreli-ableorders.We,inturn,benefitastherespectivemanufacturingfacilityisyetveryfamiliarwithourrequirementsregardingcom-
lONG-TERm NATuRE Of OuR buSINESS RElATIONSHIpS
In fiscal year 2018/2019,we collaboratedwith 68manufacturing fa-cilitiesin12countries,ourhighestproductionvolumeoriginatingfromVietnam,Bangladesh,ChinaandCambodia.Asclientofourmanufac-turing partners, long-term relationships, transparent pricing and fairproductionplanningareofutmostimportancetous.
transparent, long-term business relationships With our manufaCturing partners
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Meetingwithourtentsupplier2011 Developingatentwithoursupplierin2013
ORDER vOlumE pER fACIlITy bASED ON A COllAbORATION TImE Of...
Ordervolumeinrelationtoyearsofcollaborationwithourpartners
morethan15years
14years
13years
12years
11years
10years
9years
8years
7years
6years
5years
4years
3years
2years
1years
lessthanoneyear
0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25%
pliancewith social standards, aswell asour requirements intermsofquality,deliveryandtransparentcollaboration.Ononehand,apartnershipsuchasthismustcontinuouslybenurturedsoastoreaffirmmutual trust.Ontheotherhand,continuousefforts maintain mutual loyalty and willingness to implementchanges.Therefore,wedonotonly insistonadiligentselec-tionprocessinvolvingadetailedpriorassessmentofpotentialmanufacturingpartners,butfurthermoreontransparentpricingandanticipatoryproductionplanning throughout thedurationofacollaboration.
Anintegralpartofsustainableproductionplanningisarespon-sible procurement process. This involves, among other fac-tors,closelymonitoringamanufacturingfacility’scurrentpro-ductioncapacities.Onlywhenmanufacturingfacilitiesarenotoverloaded,excessiveovertimeanditsadverseeffectsmaybeavoidedbeforehand. In thiscontext, close ties to, aswell astransparent communication with our manufacturing partnersareofcrucial importance.Accordingly,wedetermineproduc-tionaswellasdeliveryschedulesinclosecoordinationwithourmanufacturingpartners.
Weproducetwocollectionseachyear-asummerandawintercollection-eachwithaleadtimeofappr.1.5years.Thisallowsus sufficient time for precise order forecasts. Themore accu-ratetheseforecastsare,theeasierourmanufacturingpartnersmayallocatetheircapacitiesinaccordancewithfurtherclients’orders.Thisappliesbothtoourpartnersforfinishingaswellas
lONG-TERm pRODuCTION plANNING
partners for intermediateproductsormaterial supplies. Thesepartnerssupply,forinstance,textilepanels,buttons,zippersorstrings.Consequently,wealsosubmitorderforecasts,includingproductionanddeliveryschedules, totheaccordingsuppliers.Thus,itiswarrantedthatallmaterialsrequiredforthefinalpro-ductionstagewillbeproducedanddeliveredtotherespectivemanufacturingfacilitiesforfinishingintime.Basedonourfore-casts,weorderseveralbatchesofacollection’sproductionrun,adjustedtoourcustomer’sactualordervolumes.
Shouldaproduction facilityunexpectedlyexperienceoverloadduringaproductionrun,wemayprioritizebasedontheordersand adjust delivery schedules or transportation modalities inconsultationwiththerespectivemanufacturingfacility.Forthispurpose,weemployourliveplanningsystem,whichpermanent-lymapsthestatusofallofourorders,andwhichallowsustocommunicatewithourmanufacturingpartnersatalltimes.
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
We firmly believe that all people deserve a wage adequatetoprovidealivelihood.Fromtheverybeginningofourcom-mitmenttoestablishfair,safeandsociallyresponsiblework-ingconditions,wehaveaskedourmanufacturingpartnerstopaylivingwages.In2007,thisdemandcertainlywasnotself-evident. Our membership with the FWF as of 2010 had usreassured,thatwewerededicatingourselvestoanimportant,vital cause. After all, gradually establishing living wages inmanufacturingcompaniesisoneofFWF‘sprimaryobjectives.
Commitment to living Wages
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A livingwage allowsworkers to provide for their families aswell as themselves, to afford housing and furthermore coverday-to-daynecessitiessuchasclothingor transport.Moreo-ver, funds shouldbedisposable for children’s education and
Livingwagesareacrucialissuerequiringeveryone’sfullcommitmentandsupport.Establishingthoseintheglobalmarketplace,involvingnumerousstakeholders,ishugelycomplex,requiresacreativeapproach-andmaytakesometimeyettoberealized.
Food Housing Health Education Clothing Mobility Savings
WHAT ExACTly IS A lIvING WAGE?
$
healthcare.Also,itshouldbepossibletoaccumulatereservesfor unforeseenexpenditures. “Livingwage” refers exclusivelytothewagereceivedwithinregularworkinghours-excludinganyovertimepayorperformance-relatedbonuses.
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
Wedo not operate our ownmanufacturing facilities; hence,JACKWOLFSKIN does not directly employ or pay produc-tion workers. Consequently, establishing living wages fast,andaboveallonourownauthority, is ratherchallenging. In
WageladderexampleforadifferentproductionpartnerinVietnam
our collaborationwith ourmanufacturing partners, we havemadeitourobjectivetoactivelyconvincethem, inthespiritofpartnership,thatsecuringlivingwagesistherightandtheonlywaytobesuccessfulinthelongrun.
Employeesofproduct ionfaci l i ty
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SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
Wageladder
Factory: Factory 1Currency: VND
Cutting
StandardStandard +
benefits
Female workers: 33Male workers: 25Total workers: 58
9,000k
8,500k
8,000k
7,500k
7,000k
6,500k
6,000k
Max: 8,521,370 Mode: 7,883,471
Min: 6,856,535
Max: 8,795,770 Mode: 8,157,871
Min: 7,130,935
Sewing
StandardStandard +
benefits
Female workers: 589Male workers: 184Total workers: 773
9,000k
8,500k
8,000k
7,500k
7,000k
6,500k
6,000k
Max: 8,374,185 Mode: 6,930,555
Min: 6,468,843
Max: 8,648,585 Mode: 7,204,955
Min: 6,743,243
1)
2)
Asia Floor Wage 8,949,153 1)
Global Living Wage Coalition - region 1 6,435,864 2)
Asia Floor Wage 8,949,153 1)
Global Living Wage Coalition - region 1 6,435,864 2)
Living wage estimate as of 2015.
Zone 1 Urban Ho Chi Minh City - based on family of 4 with 1.78 workers (updated March 2016). Please note: the GLWC LWestimate for Region 1 (2016) is expected to be updated by end of 2019. Until then, it is advisable to use primarily AFW LWestimate for this region.
Wageladder
Factory: Factory 1Currency: VND
Finishing
StandardStandard +
benefits
Female workers: 28Male workers: 26Total workers: 54
10,500k
10,000k
9,500k
9,000k
8,500k
8,000k
7,500k
7,000k
6,500k
6,000k
Max: 9,775,526 Mode: 7,789,284
Min: 7,249,410
Max: 10,049,926 Mode: 8,063,684
Min: 7,523,810
Quality control
StandardStandard +
benefits
Female workers: 62Male workers: 2Total workers: 64
9,000k
8,500k
8,000k
7,500k
7,000k
6,500k
6,000k
Max: 8,222,930 Mode: 7,724,324
Min: 7,071,564
Max: 8,497,330 Mode: 7,998,724
Min: 7,345,964
1)
2)
Asia Floor Wage 8,949,153 1)
Global Living Wage Coalition - region 1 6,435,864 2)
Asia Floor Wage 8,949,153 1)
Global Living Wage Coalition - region 1 6,435,864 2)
Living wage estimate as of 2015.
Zone 1 Urban Ho Chi Minh City - based on family of 4 with 1.78 workers (updated March 2016). Please note: the GLWC LWestimate for Region 1 (2016) is expected to be updated by end of 2019. Until then, it is advisable to use primarily AFW LWestimate for this region.
There is no single one formally declared living wage. There-fore, depending on which stakeholder (local unions, interna-tionalNGOs, factory owners, employee representatives, etc.)commentsonlivingwages,varying-sometimesverydifferent-amountsarespecifiedasa livingwage.Therefore, theFWFemploys so-called “wage ladders”, indicating different salarybracketsaccordingtocountryandsometimesevenindividualprovinces.TheunderlyingdataappliedbytheFWFisgatheredfromofficialsourcesorstakeholdersurveys.Thesewageladdersreveal significant differences betweenmany countrieswhenestimatingthesalaryleveldefinedasalivingwage.
THE CHAllENGES
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Foreachindividualproductwedetermineandnegotiatepric-esdirectlywith the respectivemanufacturingpartner. In thisprocesswe follow theconceptof transparentpricecalcula-tion. Our purchasing price for any product is composed ofcostsformaterialandlabour,aswellasoperationalcostsandtheprofitmarginforthemanufacturingpartner.Materialcostsmaybedeterminedquiteaccurately.Westipu-latetherawmaterialstobeusedforeachproductinapartslist.Thisbillofmaterialdepictsallmaterialsrequiredtomanu-facturetheproduct;however,noquantitiesarespecified.Theactualquantityofmaterialsusedinproduction,isspecifiedbythemanufacturingpartner,ashecreatesthecuttingpatterns.Therefore,hemaycalculatetheexactmaterialconsumption.Combinedwithknownpricesforthematerials,we,incoordi-nationwithourproductionpartners,maycalculateunitcosts.Thus, quantities and costs ofmaterialsmay be determinedtransparentlyinthepricingnegotiations.Labour costs per product depend on the particular effortrequired for production as well as the respective degree ofcomplexity.Manufacturingpartnersderivetherequiredworkinputbasedon“sampling”,i.e.trialproduction.Furthermore,theefficiency rate, ameasureofproductivityof the respec-tivemanufacturingfacility,alsoentersintodetermininglabourcosts. Based on the effort required and the efficiency rate,labourcostsmaybedeterminedaccordingly.Inorder tocalculate thefinalpurchaseprice,manufacturingpartnersmustalsoconsideroperatingcostsandtheirintend-edprofitmargin.
TRANSpARENT pRICING
However,asourmanufacturingpartnersareindependententi-ties,whichdonotneedtodisclosetheircoststructure,fullytransparentpricingisnotfeasible.Still,westriveformaximumtransparencyandfaceourmanufacturingpartnersasequalswhennegotiating.Tothisend,wemonitorchangesregardingthe labour and cost structure in the respectivemanufactur-ingcountriesandprovincesandassesswhether theagreedpricesare realisticorwhether theyneedadjustment. In thiscontext,theteamresponsibleforpricingcanrelyonyearsofin-depthexperienceandinnumerabletripstoourmanufactur-ingcountries.
Itmustbenoted,however,thatwearenotanexclusiveclientinanyof themanufacturing facilities.Thus,wehave limitedleveragetoinfluencelabourstructuresatourpartners’facili-ties.Throughourapproachtopricingplusourcontinuousef-fortstoestablishfairwages,weattempttoconvinceourpart-ners,thatadequateemployeecompensationisaninvestmentinto thepartner’s future viability. Inmanycountries, there isevidencetoday,thatemployeesnotreceivingadequatecom-pensation,areturningtootherindustriesforwork.Asaresult,thesupplyofqualifiedemployeesissteadilydecreasing.
JACKWOLFSKINhasintegratedamonitoringsystemintothesocialaudits,whichisdesignedtoverifythatourmanufactur-ingpartners’workforcereceivesfairandcontractuallyagreedcompensation for their labour. The fundamental requirement,whichmustneverbecompromised,iscompliancewithstatu-toryorindustryminimumwages.Premiseis,thatwagescoverworkers’basicneedsand furthermoreprovideanamount forfreedisposal.Naturally,unlawfulandarbitrarywagereductionsorsanctionsarenotadmissibleandwillnotbetolerated.Also,allemployeesclearlymustbeawareofthedetailedbreakdownoftheirwagesatthetimeofsigningthecontract.
SAlARy ANAlySES AND DETERmINATION Of A TARGET WAGE
organisation responsible for analysis of/study on living wages in vietnam
Wageindicator.org–forasingleperson
Wageindicator.org-foratypicallocalfamily
GlobalLivingwageCoalitionhttps://www.globallivingwage.org/wp-content/up-loads/2018/04/living-wage-report-urban-vietnam.pdf
% Wage level above statutory minimum wage
47% (Wageindicator.orgestimaterangesbetween11%-82%)
146%(Estimaterangesbetween91%-196%)
72%
Duetooursocialaudits,wemayaccuratelyestimatetheactualsalarylevelsinfactories,aswellashowtheycomparetostatu-toryminimumwages.Aswemaynotdiscloseexactwagesforthesakeofprivacy,weclassifyactualwagesintoclustersforthepurposesof thisdocument.Foranoverview,pleaserefertopage26.
Detailedwage statistics aswell as respective progress, wefrequentlysharewiththeFWF.
Wehavereviewedvariousstudiesaswellasanalysesrelatedtolivingwages;forillustration,wepresentthecaseofVietnam:
Basedondata,studiesandestimatesavailabletous,wehavedefined5targetwagelevels(notonlyforVietnam).Atlevel5,wagesexceedtheminimumwagebyatleast70%.AccordingtotheGlobalLivingwageCoalition,alivingwagethusisprovidedfor.Theright-handcolumnindicatesthepercentageofmanufacturingsitescurrentlyhavingattainedtherespectiveleveltarget.
Paidwagesmustbeknown.
Thestatutoryminimumwagemustneverbeundercut.Paidwagesareupto25%higherthanthestatutoryminimumwage.
Paidwagesare25-40% higher than the statutory minimum wage.Weconsiderattainingthisleveltobethefirststeptowardsalivingwage.
Paidwagesare40-70% higher than the statutory minimum wage.Weconsiderthistargetwagetobethesecondsteptobetakentowardssecuringalivelihood.
Paidwagesareover70% higher than the statutory minimum wage.Whenattainingthislevel,seamstresseshavereachedtargetlevel3andthushavesecuredalivelihood.(Basedonthefind-ingsoftheGlobalLivingwagecoalitioninregardtoVietnam)
Attainedfor98%ofourrevenue.Fortheremainingtwoper-cent,weareconfidentthatstatutoryminimumwageshavebeenpaid,wewernotprovidedwithreliablewageleveldata,though.
Attainedfor100%ofourrevenue.
Attainedfor90%ofourrevenue.
Attainedfor71%ofourrevenue.
Attainedfor33%ofourrevenue.
Basicrequirement1
Basicrequirement2
Targetlevel1
Targetlevel2
Targetlevel3
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
soCial report 26 soCial report 27
AvERAGE WAGES pAID TO SEAmSTRESSES CORRESpONDING TO REvENuE Of JACK WOlfSKIN IN mANufACTuRING fACIlITIES
Averagewagelevels(notincludingovertimepayorperformance-relatedbonuses)correspondingtorevenuecontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinmanufacturingfacilitiesin2018/2019
Availableinformationonwagesisnotconclusive
Averagesalaryofaseamstressranges0–25%abovethestatutoryminimumwage/withintherangeoftheminimumwage
Averagewageofaseamstressrangesbetween25.1–40%abovethestatutoryminimumwage/securinglivelihoodforsingles
Averagewageofaseamstressrangesbetween40.1–70%abovethestatutoryminimumwage/securinglivelihoodforfamilieswithtwoincomes
Averagewageofaseamstressexceedsthestatutoryminimumwagebymorethan70%/livelihoodissecured
2% 8%
19%
38%
33%
Atfirst,weareaimingtoaswellgainfulltransparencyonactualwagespaidfortheremaining2%revenue.Subsequently,wewill systematically address all manufacturing partners fromwhomweorderasignificant revenue.Toppriorityhere is topersuade thosepartners to increasewages. Initially,wead-dressthosepartnerswhosewagespaidrangeonlyupto25%abovethestatutoryminimumwage.Weaimtomotivatethesepartnerstopaywagesinlinewithourtargetlevel1(seetable).With partnerswhosewages already correspond to those oftargetlevels1or2,wewillexplorethepossibilityofagradualsalaryincreaseinordertoultimatelyensurelivelihoodsforall.
Inordertoillustratewagestructuresinspecificcountries,wewishtointroducesomeofourmostimportantmanufacturingcountriesinthefollowingsection.Correspondingdatawascollectedduringaudits.
OuR GOAl: GRADuAlly ESTAblISHING lIvING WAGES
WAGE SuRvEyS fOR vIETNAm, bANGlADESH AND myANmAR
vIETNAm Vietnamisoneofourmostimportantproductioncountries;therefore,tous,progressioninregardstothegeneralsalarystructureinVietnam-andwithourpartnersinparticular-isofgreatrelevance.
Inregardtosalaries,thecountryisdividedintofourregions.Ineachofthose,thestatutoryminimumwageswereincreasedsignificantly-namelybymorethan50%-between2014and2019:
pROGRESSION Of THE STATuTORy mINImum WAGE IN vIETNAm fROm 2014–2019
2014
1.900.000,00VND
2.100.000,00VND
2.400.000,00VND
2.700.000,00VND
2016
2.400.000,00VND
2.700.000,00VND
3.100.000,00VND
3.500.000,00VND
2018
2.760.000,00VND
3.090.000,00VND
3.530.000,00VND
3.980.000,00VND
2015
2.150.000,00VND
2.400.000,00VND
2.750.000,00VND
3.100.000,00VND
2017
2.580.000,00VND
2.900.000,00VND
3.320.000,00VND
3.750.000,00VND
2019
2.920.000,00VND
3.250.000,00VND
3.710.000,00VND
4.180.000,00VND
Region 4
Region 3
Region 2
Region 1
4.500.000,00VND4.000.000,00VND3.500.000,00VND3.000.000,00VND2.500.000,00VND2.000.000,00VND1.500.000,00VND
2014
Region1 Region3Region2 Region4
2016 20182015 2017 2019
ProgressionofthestatutorymonthlyminimumwageinVietnambetween2014and2019(FiguresinVND-VietnameseDong;VND4,190,000.00correspondstoapproximatelyEUR165.-)
Despitethissignificantincrease,minimumwagesarestillnotinlinewithlivingwages(refertotheestimatesofWageindicator.comandtheGlobalLivingWagesCoalitioncitedabove).Thisis true,evenconsidering that thestatutoryminimumwage inVietnamhasalreadydoubledinthelastsixyears.
In fiscal year 2018/2019, however, all of our 23 Vietnamesemanufacturingpartnersonaverage rankhighly regardingac-tualwagespaid.Justattwomanufacturingfacilities,wagesareonlyupto25%above the statutory minimum wage. These two facilities aresubcontractors, which presents us with our first challenge.Inthesecases,wehavenodirect influenceontherespective
manufacturer.Ourmaincontactforallcommunicationregard-ingpricesisourimmediatemanufacturingpartner.Therefore,itposesquiteachallengetoactivelyengageinadialoguewiththesubcontractorregardingasalaryincrease.In two further manufacturing facilities wages paid range be-tween26%and40%above the statutoryminimumwage; inelevenmanufacturingfacilitiesbetween41%and70%above.A total of eight of our Vietnamese partners pay their seam-stresseswages that exceed the statutoryminimumwage bymorethan70%.AccordingtothefindingsoftheGlobalLivingWage Coalition, these wages are considered to secure theirlivelihood.
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
soCial report 28 soCial report 29
bANGlADESH: The statutorymonthlyminimumwage inBangladeshoutsidethetextile industryamountsto1,500BDT(BangladeshTaka).ThisequalsaboutEUR16,-.AsofDecember1,2013,asector-specificminimumwageof5,300BDT(EUR56,50)wasestab-lished in the textile industry.OnDecember 1, 2018 thiswasincreasedto8,000BDT(approx.EUR85,-).Thus,thestatutoryminimumwage in the textile industry exceeds five times thestatutoryminimumwageapplicabletootherindustriesinBang-ladesh.AsthemajorityofthepopulationinBangladeshworksinthetextile industry, this industryservesasapioneer in thedevelopmentofthecountry.Nevertheless,theminimumwagelevel inBangladesh’stextileindustry is still low as compared to surrounding productioncountries.
myANmAR: In2018/2019wecollaboratedwiththreemanufacturingpartnersinMyanmar:
Eslite Garment Co., Ltd.Thecollaborationwiththismanufacturingpartnerwasinitiatedforthe2018spring/summercollection,orderingsmallquanti-ties.Unfortunately,itwassoonapparentthatalong-termpart-nershipwould not bedesirabledue todifferent approachestowards various aspects of the collaboration. Consequently,werapidlyreducedordersandthecollaborationwasdiscontin-uedapproachingtheFall/Winter2019collection.
All five manufacturing partners in Bangladesh, that JACKWOLFSKINhascontractedin2018/2019,paysalariesabovethestatutoryminimumwage.Themanufacturingfacilitiesarelocated inDhaka, thecapital,aswellas in themore remoteregionsofChittagongandComilla.ThemanufacturingpartnerinDhakapays far higherwages than the further productionsites, factoring in that cost of living is highest in Dhaka. InthemoreruralregionsofChittagongandComilla,livingcoststendtobelower.
Location
Dhaka
Chittagong
Chittagong
Chittagong
Comilla
Average wage of a seamstress including non-performance-related bonuses, excluding overtime
>300%
140,1%-170%
140,1%-170%
140,1%-170%
140,1%-170%
Name of manufacturing facility
YoungoneHi-TechSportswearInd.Ltd.&SavarSportswearCompanyLtd.
KarnaphuliShoesInd.,Ltd.(GarmentsUnit)
YoungoneCEPZLtd.
HaewaeApparelInc.
KadenaSportswearLtd. Averagewagespaidtoemployeesatthethreelocationsexceedthe statutoryminimumwage. This includes non-performance-relatedbonuses,butnotovertimecompensation.
InMyanmaritislawfultocompensateemployeesintrainingupto50%lessthanthestatutoryminimumwage.Duringthepro-bationaryperiod,employeesmaystillbepaidup to25% lessthanthestatutoryminimumwage.Oneofourthreeproductionpartners(still)optsforthispractice.Atpresent,weareworkingonspecificmeasures toend this legallypermissible,yet tousunacceptablepractice.Upuntil2018,therespectivemanufacturingpartnerpaidtrain-ees 3,400 MMK (Myanmar Kyat) /day. Employees within theprobationaryperiodreceived3,600MMK/day;and,oncomple-tionofthethree-monthprobationaryperiod,at leastthestatu-
toryminimumwageof4,800MMK/day.In2019,asafirststep,wereachedanagreementwithourpartnerunderwhichtraineesweretreatedonparwithotheremployees.Thus,theywillalsoreceiveatleast3,600MMK/dayinthefirstthreemonthsandatleast4,800MMK/day thereafter.Asof2020,noemployeewillreceivelessthanthestatutoryminimumwageduringtheproba-tionaryperiod-evenifpermittedbylawinMyanmar.
ForMyanmar there is a lack of reliable data on livingwages.Therefore, a well-founded salary study (e.g. using the AnkerMethod,aspecialmethodfordetermininglivingwages)mustbecommissioned, in order to havemanufacturingpartners agreeonatargetwageadjustedtoMyanmarandtograduallymovetowardsgenerallyimprovedwages.
Average salary of a seamstress including non-performance-related bonuses, excluding overtime
100%-125%
125,1%-140%
125,1%-140%
Name of manufacturing facility
EsliteGarmentCo.,Ltd.
V.T.Garment-SawbwaVTCo.,Ltd.
KidoYangonCo.,Ltd.
SAlARy OvERvIEW Of pRODuCTION fACIlITIES IN myANmAR
AveragesalaryofaseamstressinMyanmarin%ofthestatutoryminimumwage(includingnon-performance-relatedbonuses,excludingovertime)
InMarchof2017,priortocommencingmanufacture,asocialauditwasconductedat themanufacturer’spremises.Shortlyafterwards, inMay2017,wethereforeinitiatedatrainingpro-gramme for factory employees andmanagers in cooperationwith SMARTMyanmar (an EU co-funded organisation to im-prove labour laws inMyanmar).This trainingprovidedexten-siveinformationontheFWF’sCodeofConductandcomplaintsprocess.Theaimwasto laythefoundationsforasuccessfulcollaboration inMyanmar, a relatively youngproductionmar-ket. The second and final audit at themanufacturing facilitywasconductedinJuly2018.
Sawbwa VT Co., Ltd.The collaboration with Sawbwa VT has been established asearlyas2014.Trainingregardingourcodeofconductandthecomplaints process was conducted with this partner inMay2017aswell.Bothemployeesandmanagementparticipatedinthetraining.ThefirstauditatthefactorywasconductedinOctober2014.As a manufacturing country, Myanmar is still „fresh“ in theglobalmarket,sotheriskofnot(yet)meetingourrequirementsfor workplace conditions is high. Therefore, follow-up auditshave been conducted annually for the purpose of providingadequatesupport tocontinuously improvetheworkplaceen-vironment.To complement the six audits conducted to date, aswell asthebasictrainingonsocialstandardsin2017,afurthertraininginitiative-conductedbytheFWF-isplannedfor2020.Aswithallprevioustrainings,JACKWOLFSKINwillbearthecostsforinstructors.Themanufacturingpartnerwillbe responsible forthepersonnelcostsincurred.Thus,thepartnerguaranteesthatemployeesparticipatinginthetrainingwillreceivetheirregularwagesevenduringperiodsofabsenceduetothetraining.
Kido Yangon Co., Ltd.Thismanufacturing facilitywasacquired in 2018by a long-termpartnerthatisalreadymanufacturingforusatlocationsinVietnam.Hereaswell,thefirstauditwasconductedinNovember2017,beforecommencingcollaboration.Subsequently, in2018and2019,onesocialauditperyearwasconductedbytheFWF.Furthermore, this manufacturing facility is participating in aone-year FWF training program. Main objective of this pro-gramme is to improve and intensify communication betweenemployeesand their superiorsatallmanagement levels.ThecoreelementsoftheCodeofConductarealsoanelementaryaspectofthislong-runningtraininginitiative.
SOCIALRESPONSIBIL ITY IS HIGHLYPRIORIT ISED
03ESTAblISHED SySTEm TO SECuRE SOCIAl STANDARDS IN mANufACTuRING fACIlITIES
Wearecommittedtotrulybeingfamiliarwiththeactualsituationinmanufacturingfacilities.Duetoourapproachofauditinglocationsevenbeforeplacingthefirstorderandroutinelyconductingrecurringaudits,auditcoveragehasbeenat99%-100%formanyyears.Onlythisapproachallowsustoreactquicklytoundesirabledevelopmentsandtocontinuouslyworkonimprovementsincooperationwithoursuppliers.
soCial report 30 soCial report 31
Ateamofindependentauditorsperiodicallyvisitsthemanufac-turingfacilitiesofallofourpartners.Theyassesstheworkingconditionsateachindividualfacilityandwhetherimprovementmeasuresformerlyagreedupon,havebeenimplementedsuc-cessfully.Our teamatJackWolfskinpartiallyconsistsof trainedsocialauditorsaswell.However,wehavedecidedtohavethemanu-facturingfacilities’auditsconductedexclusivelybyauditorsnotemployedwith us. Independence secures impartiality.Whichweexplicitly insistonwhenassessing theactualsituationonsiteanddocumentingpositiveaswellasnegativechanges.Fortheseaudits,wehavebeenworkingwiththeindependent,globallyactiveauditingcompanySumationssince2007,com-plementedbyFWFauditorssince2010.Thisallowsustomakeourestablishedauditingsystemevenmorerobustandprotectitfrombeingcompromised.
Sumations’auditteamsgenerallyconsistofat leasttwoindi-vidualswithdifferentculturalbackgrounds.Oneoftheauditorstypically originates in the country in which the audit is con-ducted;whereastheauditteampartnerwilltypicallybelongtoanentirelydifferentculturalbackground.Duetothefactthatatleastone teammember lacksaculturallybiasedperspectivein the sense of “this is common local practice and thereforeacceptable”,hecanassesslocalconditionsmoreobjectively.
TheFWFencouragesitsmemberstoaudittheirmanufacturingpartnersatleasteverythreeyears.Therebyrequiredisacover-ageof80%oftherevenue.We are committed to exceed this FWF requirement. Accord-ingly,wecovercloseto100%ofourtotalrevenue.Moreover,weusuallyauditalloursuppliersonceayear-eventhosewithsmallrevenueaswellasallsewingsubcontractors.Thisallowsustoexerciseanevengreaterdegreeof influenceinordertosupport our partners in meeting our requirements regardingworkingconditions.However,exceptionsaremadeformanu-facturing facilities that consistently have had excellent auditresultsoveralongperiodoftime,andwherewehavenotre-ceivedanyseriouscomplaints.Inthesecases,weextendtheintervalinbetweenaudits.Conversely,weshortentheseinter-valsifparticularsupplierssuddenlyexhibitpoorperformance.Thenwedecideonacase-by-casebasis,howwecancounter-actanynegativedevelopments.Helpfuloptionsforaddressingissuesmaybeon-sitesupport,seminars,specifictrainingsorfollow-upvisitsthroughtheauditors.
INDEpENDENT AuDITORS AuDIT plANNING: ANNuAl AuDITS
Thehigherauditfrequencygivesusfarmoreopportunitiestopositivelyinfluenceourmanufacturingpartners’operations.
Improvement processJW Audit 1
Improvement processJW Audit 2
Improvement processFWF Audit 1
Improvement processJW Audit 3
JACK WoLFSKINAudit 1
FWFAudit 1
JACK WoLFSKINAudit 2
JACK WoLFSKINAudit 3
JACK WoLFSKINAudit 4
FWF Audit 2
soCial report 32 soCial report 33
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
Throughauditing,wemonitorwhetherourmanufacturingpart-ners’ efforts and our own supporting measures have beeneffective.Asthemajorityofourmanufacturingpartnersalreadycomplieswithour requirements toaveryhighstandard, theseauditsshouldinmostcasesberegardedmoreasananalysisofpotentialratherthanaconventionalinspection.Westrivetocon-tinuouslyimproveourselvesalongwithourpartners-andthuspavethewaytoa“newnormal”,astheFWFverynicelyputsit.Fairworkingconditionsthenarethenorm,nottheexception!
annual audits to effeCtively establish higher soCial standards
soCial report 34 soCial report 35
Duration of an audit:Generally,anaudit requires twodays,dependingon thesizeofthefacilitytobeaudited.Whereastheauditofasmallcom-panywithonly20employeesmaybeconcludedinjustoneday,largemanufacturingfacilitieswithseveralthousandemployeesrequiretwotothreedays.
What happens before an audit?Beforeanyaudit,auditorteamsfamiliarisethemselveswiththefacility’sbackground.Thatmayinvolvepreviouscorrectiveac-tionplansorknown issues in the facility thatmayhavebeenbroughttoattentionthroughanemployeecomplaint.Depend-ingonthequalityandextentoftheauditors’localnetwork,theywillmeetwithvariouslocalstakeholders(e.g.tradeunionsoremployee representatives)aswellas, for instance, local resi-dentsinthevicinityofthemanufacturingsiteinordertogainafirstimpression.Alsopriortotheactualaudit,the-preferablylocal -auditorspassby the respectivemanufacturingsiteonweekendsorduring latehours.A favourable timewouldalsobeat theendofashift.Thesevisitsallowtoassesswhetherandtowhatextentovertimeworkisbeingperformed.Further-more,thesevisitsprovideanopportunitytointerviewindividualemployeesatease.Theinsightsthusgainedmayalsoservetoverifytheaccuracyofstatementsmadeduringanaudit.
Occasionally,severalglobalbrands,thatareFWFmembersaswell,havetheirproductsmanufacturedinthesamefacility.Insuchcases,wecooperatewiththeseFWFmembersandjointlyconduct audits aswell as support implementationof correc-tivemeasures.Thishasanumberofbenefitsforallpartiesin-volved.Firstly,themanufacturingpartnermustimplementonlyonesinglecorrectiveactionplanformultipleclients.Secondly,themanufacturingpartnermaybe certain not to receive any
contradictoryrequirementsfromhisclients.
ThefollowingofferssomeinsightonsuccessfulcooperationwithotherFWFmembers,improvingworkingconditionsinmanufacturingfacilities:https://www.youtube.com/embed/YjgCuzx5o3U?wmode=opaque
AuDIT pROCEDuRE AND SCOpECOOpERATION WITH OTHER bRANDS
What happens during an audit?Theauditisinitiatedviaanintroductorysession.Thismeetingisattendedbytheentiremanagementteam,ideallyemployeerepresentatives,aswellasthesustainabilityteam,whichisinchargeofcompliancewiththeCodeofConductatthemanu-facturingfacility.Boththeexpectationsofallthoseinvolvedaswellastheprocedureoftheauditwillbeconsidered.Further-more,allpartiesinvolvedaregiventheopportunitytoaddressunresolvedissues.Subsequently,theentirepremisesofthemanufacturingfacilitywillbeexplored.Onthistour,primarilysafetyprecautionsarechecked. This encompasses employee protection measures,theuseofpersonalprotectiveequipment,architecturalcharac-teristics,firesafetyandmanyotheraspectsrelevanttohealthandsafetyinthefacility.Duringthistour,auditorsarealsoalert,forinstance,tothepresenceofparticularlyyoungemployees.Furthermore,auditorsalsousetheopportunitytoconductini-tial interviewswith individual employees and actively involvethem.Following the tour, documents provided by the manufactur-ingpartnerwill be reviewedcomprehensively. These include,forinstance,payrollrecords,timesheetsaswellaspersonnelrecords.Alsorelevantaredocumentsresultingfromcollectivebargaining; recordsofemployeeabsences;butalsowork in-structions,workorders,processdocumentation,etc.Auditorsfurthermoreconductindividualaswellasgroupinterviewswithemployees,obviouslywithoutanymanagerspresent.Theover-allimpressiongainedthroughthetour,thedocumentationandthestaffinterviewsallowtheauditteamtoassesstowhatex-tenttheCodeofConductiscompliedwithonsite.Oncetheauditprocesshasbeenconcluded,acorrectiveac-tionplaniscompiledforthissite.Thisplanbrieflysummarizestheissues,thatmanagement,incooperationwiththeemploy-eeswhoarealsoresponsibleforcompliancewiththeCodeofConduct,needtoaddressforimprovement.Toconcludetheaudit, thecorrectiveactionplanwillbethor-oughlyreviewedwithmanagement,employeerepresentatives,aswellasthesustainabilityteam.Itiscrucialthatallpartiesin-volvedfullyunderstandtheindividualissuessoimprovementsmayactuallybeimplemented.
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
soCial report 36 soCial report 37
Asystematicassessmentprovidesclarityandallowsthefindingsofsocialauditstobecomprehensibleeventopartiesnotimme-diatelyinvolved.Therefore,wehaveestablisheda10-levelratingscaleprovidingastraightforwardsummaryofauditresults.
straightforWard and systematiC assessment as Well as individual improvement measures
Since 2007, we as well as auditing teams have relied on asystematic and precise assessmentwhen auditing. Audit re-sultsareillustratedapplyinga10-levelratingscale.Inordertoclearlydocumentprogress,wedepictuptothreeconsecutiveaudits in a diagram. This allows to identify newand existingchallenges-butalsomajorleapsintermsofimprovement-atasingleglance.
Thecorrectiveactionplanidentifiesallissuesthatwereidentifiedduringtheauditaseitherofferingpotentialorrequiringimprove-ment.Accordingly,manufacturingpartnersdeviseimprovementmeasures independentlyon theirown,coordinating thesewithusperiodically.Wethusactasa“sparringpartner”andalsomaycontributeusefulsuggestions.Also,wemayevaluateproposedmeasures before their implementation.Wemonitor the actualimplementationbasedondocumentationandphotos,aswellasinterviewswithemployees.Final reviewof the implementationwilltakeplaceduringthenextindependentauditonsite.
1-10 RATING SCAlE
ImpROvEmENT mEASuRES bASED ON CORRECTIvE ACTION plANS
10-levelratingscaletoillustratesocialauditresults
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
201420152019
9 10
ManagementPractice
Workinghours
Compensation
ChildLabour
ForcedLabour
Discrimination
Environment
Healthy,Safe,WorkingConditionsandSocialFacilities
Freedomofassociation&CollectiveBargaining
fullcompliancewithrequirementsoftheCodeofConduct
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
soCial report 39
AccordingtoanFWFstudy,thetextileindustrycontinuestobeoneofVietnam’smost importantexport industries.Forsomeyears now, the country has been seeing positive economicgrowthandasamanufacturingcountryisattractinganincreas-ing number of brands from the apparel sector.However, ac-cordingtotheFWF,therighttofreeunionizationandcollectivebargaining remains one of the country’s greatest challenges.Sofar,itisnotlegaltoformindependenttradeunions.Alltradeunionactivitiesmustconformwith theVietnamGeneralCon-federationofLabour(VGCL),theonlyofficiallyapprovedtradeunioninVietnam.Generallyspeaking,thisdoesnotimplythatworkers’interestsarenotadequatelyrepresentedwithinthemanufacturingfacili-ties.Nevertheless,inthecontextofsocialaudits,wearepayingverycloseattentionwhetherlocaltradeunionrepresentativesactuallydorepresentworkers’interests.AfurtherchallengeinVietnamstill isobservanceof reasonableworkinghours.Fre-quently, the statutory overtime limits are exceeded - which,clearly, we deem unacceptable. During the social audits, wethereforeverify inparticular, ifworkinghoursareproperlyac-counted for. Ifmanufacturing facilities report excessive over-time,weattempttofindindividualapproachestokeepemploy-eeovertimewithinacceptablelimits.According to a further FWF study, compliance with buildingcodesaswellasoccupationalsafetyandhealthregulationshassignificantlyimprovedinVietnam.However,someofourcon-tractedmanufacturingfacilitiesstillshowpotentialtoimproveoccupationalsafety,anissuethatweconsistentlyaddressdur-ingourperiodicsocialauditsandalsointhecorrectiveactionplans. Positive is, as well, the improvement in the statutoryminimumwage,whichhasbeenconsiderablyincreasedinre-centyears(seealsopage27).
According toaFWFcountry study, the textile industry is thesecond most important economic sector in China, only sur-passedbytheelectronicsindustry.Atthesametime,Chinaistheworld’s largestexporteroftextiles.AccordingtotheFWF,themostseriouschallengesinthetextileindustryareexceed-ingstatutoryovertimelimitsaswellaslowwages.Furthermore,free unionization and collective bargaining is illegal, as inde-pendent tradeunionsarenotpermitted.Thus,whenauditingour contractedmanufacturing facilities,we observe that rea-sonable working hours and adequate compensation are notnecessarilyprovided.Wetrytoactivelyresolvetheseissuesincooperationwiththemanufacturingpartners.Unfortunately, we still receive incomplete or inaccurate timesheetsfromsomeofourChinesepartners.Insuchcases,itisnotpossible to validly estimatecompensation in these facili-ties.Hereourtaskremainstoidentifywhyrecordsareincom-pleteor inaccurate. In thepast,wehavebeenable toobtainaccurate timesheets innearlyallof these instances, throughextensivetalksandconfidence-buildingmeasures.Onceweareprovidedaccuraterecords,wemay,cooperatingwiththerespectivemanufacturingfacility,devisemeasurestoreduceovertime.
vIETNAm CHINA
vietnam10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinVietnamcontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinChinacontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
China10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
soCial report 38
rating results for 2018/2019 in overvieW
Ourmanufacturing partners are located around theworld. Infiscalyear2018/2019wecollaboratedwithmanufacturingfa-cilities in Vietnam, Bangladesh, China, Cambodia, Myanmar,Indonesia, South Korea, Taiwan, Turkey, Italy, Slovenia andGermany. Every country has specific national regulations; auniquecultureandhistory,aswellasspecificcontemporarysocialchanges,traditionsandcustoms.Thisleadstocountry-specificpeculiaritiesandpossiblyevenrisks,thatmustbetakenintoaccountwhentryingtoestablishfairandsafeworkingcon-ditions.Apart from thesecountry-specifics, factors individualtoeachmanufacturingfacilitymayalsoplayanimportantrole.Theseinclude,forinstance,therespectivemanagementprac-tices, the local environment or the individual history of thelocal facility. In the followingwewill provideanoverviewofourpersonalexperienceaswellassomebackground in thevariousmanufacturingcountries.
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
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• Freedometoassociationand collectivebargainingremain achallenge
• Inrecentyears,safetyofbuildings hasgenerallyimprovedsignificantly
• Thetextileindustryisthe second-strongestsector
• Textileindustryisasignificant economicsector
• Structurally,thecountyisstill ratherweak,thoughcurrently experiencingconsiderable developmentandchanges
• Thepopulation‘saverage ageisratheryoung
• Establishedveryrecentlyasa productioncountryintheglobal market,structuraldeficiencies arestillevident
• Textileindustryisasmallbut neverthelessverysignificantsector
• Above-averagenumberoffemale employeesinthetextileindustry‘s facilities
• Quiteoftenratherlargeproduction facilitiesemployingalargeworkforce
• Considerabledifferencesinsalary levelsdependingonthespecific regionofthecountry
• Duetoalackofexperiencein unionworkaswellascollective bargaining,accordingsupport mustbeprovided
• Managementofovertime continuestobelessthanideal
• Harassmentandviolence,especially againstwomen,continuestobe anissue.Facilitiesdoactively counteractandthushave establishedvariousanti-harassment- committees
• Nostatutoryrighttofreedom ofassociationandcollective bargaining
• Compliancetobuildingcodes aswellasoccupationalsafety generallytendtobegood • Salarielevelsareincreasing
• Overtimeremainscommonpractice
• Thereisprogressinthe developmentofthestatuatory minimumwageaswellasthe generalsalarylevel
• Culturalchallenges,e.g.lackof opendialogueregardingareas ofimprovement
vIETNAm
CHINA
bANGlADESCH
KAmbODSCHA
myANmAR
INDONESIEN
soCial report 40 soCial report 41
Myanmar’s business environment has undergone fundamen-tal changes since the country’s boarders were opened. La-bour laws have gradually been revised and approximatedmore closely to global standards. According to the FWF, theso-called “social dialogue” is not yet well-established in thecountry,complicatingestablishmentofsocialstandards.Socialdialogueinvolves,for instance,collectivebargaining,butalsocreatinganenvironmentforopendialogueaswellasactivelysharing relevant knowledge. Social dialoguemay involve theadministration,government,authoritiesand the industrysec-tor,but itmayberestrictedtothe industrysector itself.Also,theinternaldialoguebetweenmanagementandworkersorem-ployeerepresentativeswithinmanufacturingfacilitiesqualifiesassocialdialogue.Unfortunately, inMyanmar the social dialogue is still provingunsatisfactory. To date, processes have hardly been estab-lishedandallpartiesinvolvedareuncertainaboutprocedures.Topositivelychangethecurrentstatus,firstandforemostwemayhelpcreateanenvironment foropendialoguewithin themanufacturing facilities.Thus,wehave initiatedon-site train-ingsconveyingexpertiseoneffectivecommunicationchannelsand tools for bothmanagement andworkers. Next year, weintendtofurtherexpandourtrainingprogram.Formoreinfor-mationonthetrainings,pleaserefertopage28/28.
InBangladesh,textilesarealsothemostimportantexportgood,accordingtotheFWF.ThemainchallengeinBangladeshremainscompliancetobuildingcodes-despitesignificantimprovementsinrecentyears.FollowingthecollapseoftheRanaPlazabuildingin2013, the“BangladeshAccord”and the“Alliance forBang-ladeshWorkerSafety”wereformed.Bothinitiativesaimtoim-provethesafetystandardsoffacilities,i.e.buildings,inthetex-tileindustry.Tothisend,expertscloselyinspectmanufacturingfacilitiesonsiteregardingcompliancewithbuildingcodesandfiresafety.Correctiveactionplansderivedfromtheinspectionsarepublicised;inspectionsarerepeatedperiodically.Asaresult,thesafetyofBangladesh’smanufacturingfacilitiesingeneralhassignificantlyimprovedinrecentyears.Allmanufacturingfacilitieswe contract inBangladesh, havebeen audited in thepast byeitheroftheseinitiatives,andhaveimplementedthenecessaryimprovementmeasures.Inthemeantime,initiative“BangladeshAccord”hasbeendisbanded; itsdutieshavebeentransferredbacktoBangladesh’sauthorities.Unfortunately,harassmentandviolence,usuallydirectedagainstwomen,isstillwidespreadinBangladesh.Wecontinuouslyandemphatically address thisdelicate,highly important issuedur-ing theannualauditsaswellas in thecorrectiveactionplans.Weinsistonformingso-called“AntiHarassmentCommittees”.Thesecommitteesprovideapointofcontactforfemaleworkersinthefactorieswhoarevictimsofphysicaland/orpsychologicalaggression.Onapositivenote,theadjustmentinstatutoryminimumwagesin the textilesectorhas led toasignificant increase inwages.Inourcontractedfacilities,wagesalreadyexceedthestatutoryminimumwageby40%to208%(seealsopage28).ThefacilitywiththehighestwagesaccountsforthelargestshareofJACKWOLFSKIN’stotalrevenuebyfar.
According to theFWFcountry study, the textile industry is arelativelysmall yetsignificanteconomicsector thataccountsforasubstantialshareofIndonesianexports.Noteworthyisthehigh proportion of female employeesworkingwith ourman-ufacturing partners; at around 90%, it surpassesmost othermanufacturing countries. The statutory minimum wage hasbeenincreasedconsiderablyinrecentyears,especiallyinthemetropolitanareas.Asaresult,textileproductionincreasinglyshiftstomoreruralandatthesametimemoreremoteregionsofIndonesia.The Indonesian share of our total revenue amounts to onlyaboutfourpercent,acomparativelylowpercentage.Also,ourordervolumesarecomparativelysmallfortheindividualmanu-facturingfacilities.Therefore, inIndonesia,wearefacingverydifferentchallengesascomparedtootherprocurementcoun-tries. Also,we too are affected by the above-mentioned de-velopment,thatmanufacturingcompaniesarerelocatingfromurbantomoreruralregionsforcostreasons.Unfortunately,wecannotinfluencethesedecisions.Inthepast,wehaveatleastbeen able to negotiatewith our partners that our productionvolumeswillcontinuetobemanufacturedattheexistingsite.Intheeventofacompleteclosureofasite-whichweneitherde-mandnorwish-wearefacedwiththedecisiontodiscontinuethecooperationwiththecompanyorgoalongwiththemove.In Indonesia, as elsewhere, we frequently offer our partnersFWF trainings that focus explicitly on free unionization andcollective bargaining, or on the general requirements of theCodeofConduct.
The textile industry iscurrentlyconsideredCambodia’s fastestgrowingsector.Compared toneighbouringcountries, suchasVietnam,Cambodiaisratherstructurallyweak,though.Bothin-frastructureandoverall livingstandardsarecomparatively low.Todate, theFWF isnotpresent inCambodia;however,socialauditsareconductedonsitebyanindependentteamofaudi-torsapprovedbytheFWF.ThisteamalsooffersmanyyearsofexperiencewithourCodeofConduct.Auditresultsusuallystillrevealpotentialforfurtherimprovementatthemanufacturingfa-cilitieswehavecontracted.Forinstance,managementpracticesrequiretobeimproved.Amoresophisticatedinternalorganisa-tionaswellasabetterunderstandingofmanagementingeneral,areessentialprerequisites toeffectivelyestablish fairandsafeworkingconditions.Themanufacturingpartnerswecollaboratewith,aregenerallycommittedtoestablishinghigherstandards.However, theirefforts toachieve thisgoal requireoursupport,which,clearly,wegladlyprovide.Weactivelyleadtheimplemen-tationofimprovementmeasures;furthermore,weareinperma-nentcontactwithourpartnerssoastoidentifyissuesfast,andreactaccordingly.
myANmARbANGlADESH INDONESIACAmbODIA
bangladesh10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
Cambodia10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
myanmar10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
indonesia10,009,008,007,006,005,004,003,002,001,00
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinBangladeshcontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinMyanmarcontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinCambodiacontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
OverallaverageofauditresultsforallmanufacturingfacilitiesinIndonesiacontractedbyJACKWOLFSKINinfiscalyear2018/2019.
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
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soCial report 42 soCial report 43
manufaCturing faCilities in fisCal year 2018/2019 - overvieW
CAmbODIA4 manufacturing facilities
9.869 employeesworkinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose8.512 (86%)arefemaleand1.357 (14%) male
12,08% of our production volumeismanufacturedinCambodia
ITAly3 manufacturing facilities
69 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose37 (54%) arefemaleand32 (46%) male
<1% of our production volumeismanufacturedinItaly
INDONESIA6 manufacturing facilities
8.431 employeesworkinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose7.497 (89%)arefemaleand934 (11%) male
4,35% of our production volumeismanufacturedinIndonesia
TuRKEy 1 manufacturing facility
530 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose235 (44%)arefemaleand295 (56%) male
1,67% of our production volumeismanufacturedinTurkey
myANmAR3 manufacturing facilities
5.918 employeesworkinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose5.513 (93%)arefemaleand405 (7%) male
9,60% of our production volumeismanufacturedinMyanmar
bANGlADESH5 manufacturing facilities
48.183 employeesworkinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose32.402 (67%)arefemaleand15.781 (33%) male
21,50% of our production volumeismanufacturedinBangladesh
TAIWAN1 manufacturing facility
164 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose84 (78%)arefemaleand80 (49%) male
<1% of our production volumeismanufacturedinTaiwan
GERmANy1 manufacturing facility
73 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose64 (88%)arefemaleand9 (12%) male
<1% of our productionvolumeismanufacturedinGermany
vIETNAm 23 manufacturing facilities
39,749 employees workinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose32,410 (82%)arefemaleand7,339 (18%) male
39.47% of our production volumeismanufacturedinVietnam
SlOvENIA2 manufacturing facilities
118 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose68 (58%)arefemaleand50 (42%) male
<1% of our production volumeismanufacturedinSlovenia
SOuTH KOREA1 manufacturing facility
9 employeesworkinthemanufacturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose7 (78%)arefemaleand2 (22%) male
<1% of our production volumeismanufacturedinSouthKorea
CHINA18 manufacturing facilities
9.370 employees workinthemanu-facturingfacilitiescontractedbyJACKWOLFSKIN,ofthose7.283 (78%)arefemaleand2.087 (22%) male
11,01% of our production volumeismanufacturedinChina
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
soCial report 44 soCial report 45
KidoHanoiCo.,Ltd. Vietnam KI 2005 1048 >170,1%
39,47%
8 Sumations 18.–19.08.2017
Kido-DongTienJointStockCompanyFactoryNo.3
Vietnam KI 2012 1038 >170,1% 8 FWF 25.–26.10.2019
KidoVinhCo.Ltd. Vietnam KI 2012 4288 140,1%–170% 7 Sumations 22.–23.03.2019
ElegantTeamManufacturerCo.,Ltd. Vietnam ET 2007 374 140,1%–170% 7 FWF 20.–21.04.2018
ElegantTeamManufacturer-DucThangJointStockCompany
Vietnam ET 2016 392 100%-125% 6 Sumations 18.–19.03.2019
ShintsBVTCo.,Ltd. Vietnam SH 2006 3635 140,1%–170% 8 FWF 19.–20.05.2017
ShintsBVT’BRAND Vietnam SH 2014 1280 >200% 8 Sumations 21.–22.08.2017
MAXZONE-AstroVinhLong Vietnam MZ 2015 991 140,1%–170% 7 Sumations 26.–27.08.2019
MAXZONE-AstroSaigonCo.,Ltd Vietnam MZ 2005 773 125,1%-140% 6 Sumations 01.–02.04.2019
MAXZONE-HaiAnhHungCo.,Ltd. Vietnam MZ 2017 36 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 03.04.2019
MAXZONE-MayCuongThinhCo.,Ltd Vietnam MZ 2019 26 100%-125% 6 Sumations 04.04.2019
ASGGlobalCo.,Ltd. Vietnam ASG 2016 1747 >170,1% 7 Sumations 25.–26.03.2019
UnicoGlobalInc. Vietnam UN 2015 2708 >200% 7 Sumations 19.–20.08.2016
FulgentSunFootwearCo.,Ltd.(Sunshine)
Vietnam VFS 2016 6657 140,1%–170% 7 FWF 14.–15.03.2019
DonaBiti‘sImexCorp.,Pte.,Ltd. Vietnam VDB 2016 3508 >170,1% 5 Sumations 05.–06.04.2019
AJSolutions-BethelVinaCo.,Ltd. Vietnam BE 2016 438 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 27.–28.03.2019
KaiYangVietnamCo.,Ltd. Vietnam VKY 2008 2408 140,1%–170% 5 Sumations 11.–12.03.2019
YoungtechVietNamCo.,Ltd. Vietnam YT 2017 982 125,1%–140% 7 Sumations 21.–22.03.2019
Youngone-BroadpeakSocTrangCo.,Ltd.
Vietnam YO 2018 1945 140,1%–170% 7 Sumations 28.–29.08.2019
VMCRoyalCo.,Ltd.(TanBien) Vietnam VHC 2017 1218 140,1%–170% 7 Sumations 29.–30.03.2019
SungjinInc.VinaCo.,Ltd. Vietnam SJ 2017 2085 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 11.–12.09.2017
GreatProcess(Vietnam)Co.,Ltd. Vietnam 2018 1650 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 20.–21.08.2019
Maxport4(88)(Headquarter) Vietnam MAX 2017 522 >200% 9 Sumations 11.–12.08.2017
YoungoneHi-TechSportswearInd.Ltd.&SavarSportswearCompanyLtd.
Bangladesch YO 2008 8718 >300%
21,50%
8 FWF 13.–14.10.2018
KarnaphuliShoesInd.,Ltd.(GarmentsUnit)
Bangladesch KSI 2016 17137 140,1%–170% 6 FWF 14.–15.09.2019
YoungoneCEPZLtd. Bangladesch YO 2011 13780 140,1%–170% 7 FWF 15.–16.02.2016
HaewaeApparelInc. Bangladesch HW 2017 3500 140,1%–170% 7 Sumations 02.12.2017
KadenaSportswearLtd. Bangladesch KA 2014 5048 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 13.–14.05.2019
Tseng-JiujiangZhandaClothingCo.,Ltd.
China TL&TS
2009 282 >170,1%
11,01%
7 Sumations 11.–12.11.2016
Youngtech(Dongguan)Co.,Ltd. China YT 2007 512 140,1%–170% 7 FWF 10.–11-08.2016
ASI-JiangsuAsianSourcingHeadwearMFG.Co.,Ltd.
China ASI 2008 1249 >170,1% 8 FWF 03.–04.06.2019
ASI-ShanghaiWeijieGarmentCo.,Ltd. China ASI 2016 462 >170,1% 8 Sumations 08.–11.06.2018
ASI-YuanTongHeadwearMFG.Co.Ltd(HuaiAn)
China ASI 2017 882 keineAussagemöglich
7 FWF 30.–31.05.2018
ShanghaiYangfan-ShanghaiHongyangTravelProductsCo.,Ltd.
China YF 2009 82 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 21.–22.06.2019
ShanghaiYangfan-JiangsuCeratoOutdoorProductsCo.,Ltd.
China YF 2019 376 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 19.–20.06.2019
E-one-HeshanTopEagleGarmentLtd. China EON 2013 743 >250% 9 Sumations 08.–09.08.2019
E-one-HubeiTopEagleGarmentLtd. China EON 2016 322 >200% 8 Sumations 05.–06.08.2019
SuniconApparelLtd.-HuiZhouLiJiaGarmentLimited
China SUN 2017 158 >200%
11,01%
6 Sumations 03.–04.06.2019
Youngone-QingdaoYoungoneSports-wearCo.,Ltd.
China YO 2018 957 140,1%–170% 8 Sumations 17.–18.05.2018
QMIIndustrial(Jiangsu)Co.,Ltd. China QMI 2018 309 >170,1% 7 FWF 12.–13.08.2019
QMIShanghaiCo.,Ltd. China QMI 2018 792 100%–125% 8 Sumations 11.–12.10.2019
DongguanXingtailaiSportsProductsCo.,Ltd.
China 2019 106 >170,1% 5 Sumations 13.06.2019
ZhongshanJuBangTechnologyGroupCo.,Ltd.
China 2019 521 >170,1% 7 Sumations 14.–15.06.2019
AscentGlobalLimited China AGL 2018 39 keineAussagemöglich
- -
JiangyinCityShenchengInternationalTradeCo.,Ltd.
China 2018 557 keineAussagemöglich
7 FWF 18.–19.03-2019
LPVSportsHubeiCo.,Ltd. China LPV 2018 1021 keineAussagemöglich
6 Sumations 26.–27.06.2019
Asmara-PT.GreentexIndonesiaUtama Indonesien AKA 2016 1082 100%–125%
4,35%
7 Sumations 11.–12.03.2019
Asmara-PT.MorichIndoFashion Indonesien AKA 2013 2255 100%–125% 7 Sumations 26.–27.02.2018
Agility-PT.CiptaKaryaBuana Indonesien 2019 718 100%–125% - Sedex 06.–08.08.2019
PT.TrigoldenstarWisesa Indonesien TSG 2010 1088 100%–125% 7 FWF 27–28.08.2018
PT.Ameya-PT.AmeyaLivingstyleIndonesia
Indonesien AMA 2010 2127 100%–125% 7 FWF 02.–03.08.2018
PT.Ameya-PT.AnggunKreasiGarment Indonesien ANG 2018 1161 100%–125% 7 Sumations 28.02.–01.03.2018
QMICo.,Ltd.(SuccesIndexGroup) Kambodscha QMI 2010 4118 125,1%–140%
12,08%
6 Sumations 01.–02.07.2019
JawCoLtd. Kambodscha QMI 2019 1044 125,1%–140% 6 Sumations 22.–23.8.2019
PontusFootwearLtd. Kambodscha 2018 3934 100%–125% 7 Sumations 19.–20.03.2018
Tseng-GarthaInternationalCo.,Ltd. Kambodscha KH&TS
2014 773 140,1%–170% 6 Sumations 28.02.–29.03.2018
Intersocks-InterknitS.R.L. Italien ISO 2004 24 keineAussagemöglich
0,11%
7 SAI 23.–24.07.2019
Intersocks-InsocksS.R.L. Italien ISO 2010 24 keineAussagemöglich
7 SAI 23.–24.07.2019
Intersocks-NewKoko´sS.R.L. Italien ISO 2000 21 keineAussagemöglich
10 Sedex 21.09.2016
Intersocks-IntersocksConfection Slowenien ISO 2004 11 100%–125%0,11%
6 Sedex 13.06.2016
Intersocks-Recinkod.o.o. Slowenien ISO 2008 107 100%–125% 6 Sedex 26.–27.09.2016
PanteraIcveDisTicA.S. Türkei PA 1993 530 125,1%–140% 1,67% 7 FWF 02.–03.10.2017
P.A.C.GmbH Deutschland PAC 2016 73 keineAussagemöglich
0,06% 8 -
EsliteGarmentCo.,Ltd. Myanmar EAM 2017 3161 100%–125% 9,60% 6 FWF 17.–18.07.2018
V.T.Garment-SawbwaVTCo.,Ltd. Myanmar VTG 2014 837 125,1%–140% 6 FWF 10.–13.08.2019
KidoYangonCo.,Ltd. Myanmar KI 2018 1920 125,1%–140% 6 FWF 17.–18.12.2018
FengYiOutdoorLeisureEquipment Taiwan FY 2000 164 keineAussagemöglich
0,01% 6 Sumations 13.–14.10.2015
NaschemCo.,Ltd. Südkorea NS 2004 9 keineAussagemöglich
0,04% 6 Sumations 30.11.–01.12.2016
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TableOverviewManufacturingSitesinfiscalyear2018/2019
ESTABLISHEDSYSTEMTOSECURESOCIALSTANDARDS INMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
Cou
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EDuCATIONAl mEASuRES TO ImpROvE SOCIAl SuSTAINAbIlITy IN THE Supply CHAIN
Sustainability in manufacturing facilitiesmay not be achieved overnight; instead, it is the result of adedicatedcooperationatagloballevel.Fairworkingconditionsmayonlybeestablishedwhenallthoseinvolvedarecommittedtothesameobjectives.Allpartieshavetobewillingtoassumeresponsibilityandtotakeaction-whilealsopossessingthenecessaryknowledgeandtheappropriateresources.Inthisregard,continuoustrainingisakeyfactor-whichiswhyweroutinelysupportlocalmanufacturingfacilitieswithcomprehensivetrainingmeasureson-site.
soCial report 46 soCial report 47
04
WeverifythatFWF“WorkerInformationSheets”areondisplayineverymanufacturingfacilityintherespectivelocallanguage.Theseprovide important informationonfairandsafeworkingconditions. Also, contact details for any enquiries or comp-laints.
Firstandforemost, it isthemanufacturingfacilities’responsi-bilitytoimplementourCodeofConductaswellasFWFsocialstandards.Weconsider itour role toencourageandsupportourpartnersintheireffortstoimproveworkingconditions.Wedonotexpectthemtofullysucceedstraightfromtheverybe-ginningof a collaboration.Sometimes, necessary knowledgeor the required resources are lacking. Therefore, we supportourpartnerswithtrainings,tailoredtoindividualrequirementsonsite.Afterall,onlythoserelyingonproperqualificationmayassumeresponsibilityforfairandsafeworkingconditions.
Atthemanufacturingfacilities,weofferon-sitetrainingswithinthescopeoftheFWFWorkplaceEducationPrograms(WEP).Tothisend,wesendexperiencedFWFemployeeswhoarewellacquaintedwiththelocallanguage,cultureandcharacteristicsofthatparticularcountry.Trainings are not intended formanagement only. Primarilywewishtoaddressemployees.Theobjectiveistocreateawarenesstowardssafeandfairworkingconditions.Alsoconveyedaretherightsandobligationsofallpartiesinvolved;asquiteoftenem-ployeesandmanagementlacksufficientaccordingknowledge.Additional training focuses on the means and possibilities ofconstructive communication when encountering issues in theworkplace aswell as on FWF’s complaintsmanagement sys-tem(forcomplaints,alsorefertopage53etseqq).Asawhole,trainingaswellasexpertiseshouldhelpimproveinternalcom-municationanddialoguewithinthemanufacturingfacilities.Afterall,soundsocialdialogueisthebasisforestablishinghighsocialstandardsatanymanufacturingfacility.
If required,we support ourmanufacturing partnerswith addi-tional trainingsandseminarsregardingfurtherrequirementsorcountry-specifictopics.ForMyanmar,e.g.,theFWF-incoop-erationwithseveralFWFmembers,includingJACKWOLFSKIN-designeda trainingapplicable to theHRdepartments. Theobjectivewas to enableHRemployees to determine the ac-tualageof jobapplicants. InMyanmar,many localspossesseithernoneorforgedidentitydocuments,which,forinstance,iscrucialinpreventingchildlabour.Applyingthistraining’sex-pertise, HR employeesmay better fulfil their responsibilities.TheFWFalsoofferssupportregardingmanufacturingfacilities’pricing.Specifictrainingshavebeendesignedthathelptofac-torinlivingwageswhencalculatingprices.AsamemberoftheFWF,weencourageourpartnerstoparticipateinsuchtraining.From a facility in Turkeywe have received a complaint con-cerningthelackoffreeunionization.Thus,wehaveconductedcomprehensivetrainingsonthistopicinthatparticularfacility.TrainingsonfreeunionizationwerealsoofferedforIndonesia.
Wereactspecifictoexistingchallenges;andwhennecessary,wedevelopnewapproaches,eitherindependentlyorinclosecooperationwiththeFWF,toaddresstheneedsofthepeopleworkinginthemanufacturingfacilities.
Infiscal year2018/2019,weconducteda totalof9WEPs inVietnam and Myanmar. Further individual training measureswereofferedforourpartnerinTurkey.Withthesetrainingswereached 29,021 employees, which corresponds to about aquarterofallemployeesworkingforourmanufacturingpartners.Itisourobjectivetorepeattrainingsatmanufacturingsitesatregular intervals.Furthermore,wewish tobroadenthescopeofthetrainingstofurthertopics,astocontinuouslyexpandtheexpertiseofthepeopleworkinginmanufacturingfacilities.
fWf WORKER INfORmATION SHEETS
SHARING RESpONSIbIlITy
fWf WORKplACE EDuCATION pROGRAmS (WEp)
OTHER TRAINING TOpICS OvERvIEW fISCAl yEAR 2018/2019
EDUCATIONALMEASURESTO IMPROVESOCIALSUSTAINABIL ITY INTHESUPPLYCHAIN
effeCtive training on-site at manufaCturing faCilities
soCial report 48 soCial report 49
Do you have QUESTIONS about your salary, working
hours or any of these other issues?
If you want more information, or feel you have not been treated correctly:
If these don’t work, you can email Fair Wear:
1
2
3
[email protected]@Fair Wear will always treat your complaint confidentially. If you wish to file a complaint, we will investigate the issue. If possible, we will help you to solve the issue you have raised. Fair Wear is an independent, nonprofit organisation. You can learn more at www.fairwear.org
Talk to your supervisor, if possible
Talk to your representative if there is a worker committee
Get advice from your union or from a charity
1Employment
is freely chosen
2Freedom of
association and the right to collective
bargaining
3No discrimination
in employment
4No exploitation
of child labour
5Payment of a
living wage
6Reasonable hours
of work
7Safe and healthyworking conditions
8A legally binding
employment relationship
AtJACKWOLFSKINheadquartersinIdstein,wealsoencour-age all colleagues tobe awareof the importanceof fair andsafeworking conditions at ourmanufacturingpartners. Eachemployeeshouldhavetherightknowledgeandunderstandingregardingsocialstandards,correspondingtohisorherrangeofresponsibilities.Allnewemployeesreceive introductory train-ingsonsocialstandards,ourCodeofConductandtherequire-mentsoftheFWF.Ourinternalnewsletterfrequentlyreportsonvarioustopicsandupdatesrelevanttooursupplychain.Col-leaguesworkingmorecloselywithourmanufacturingpartnersandthusbearingresponsibility fora faircollaborationreceiveextensiveadditionaltraining,accordingtotheirspecificrole.Inparticular,travellingtechnicians,whoareprimarilyresponsiblefor securing product quality on-site, receive specific trainingonoccupationalsafety.Also, theyareprovidedachecklist inordertomonitorthemostimportantsafetyrequirementsinthemanufacturingsites,complementarytotheindependentauditsthatareconductedanyway.Brandcoaches,salesteamandproducttrainersalsofrequentlyreceivereportsanddetailedinformationonoureffortstoestab-lishfairworkingconditionsinoursupplychain.
VendorControl Teammembers,who closelyworkwithman-ufacturing sites and supervise local compliance with socialstandards, frequently participate in social audits themselves.Thishelpsdevelopingafeelforacountry,itspeopleandtheirspecific culture - also, on site, theymay personally familiar-izethemselveswithmanufacturingfacilitiesandworkers.Theresulting personal association enables us to better attend toindividualneedsoftheworkers.
Continuously raising aWareness among our oWn employees
By now, I have been travelling for a total of 3 weeks in Vietnam, from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, and have
observed our independent auditors conducting social audits in several manufacturing facilities. Surrounded
by a lot of mopeds sounding their horns, sultry tropical air, very cold A/Cs and foreign but very de-
licious food, we managed to very closely inspect the manufacturing facilities: By touring entire
factory premises, leafing through documents and records, and talking to workers, union representatives
as well as management, we obtained comprehensive insights from every audit. On site, immediately after
an audit, we devised a corrective action plan, covering all the necessary improvements. I am now taking these
corrective action plans back to Germany. They are the basis for my work with the manufacturing
facilities, the objective being to implement planned improvement measures.
April 9th, 2019
ApersonalaccountbyAnjaHeinemann,CSRteammember
I now realize that I am able to provide support more effectively when I am aware of the characteristics of a country and its people, as well as being familiar with the manufacturing facilities and the individuals I am directly involved with. On the journey, I learned something new about my work every day, but I am also taking away many personal impressions. Most impressive to me was the opportunity to directly speak with the workers and gain some insight into their lives and daily routines. In Germany, we often don’t consider who manufactures our products where, and under what conditions. My experience on site has further increased my appreciation for the things that surround us in everyday life.
soCial report 50
EDUCATIONALMEASURESTO IMPROVESOCIALSUSTAINABIL ITY INTHESUPPLYCHAIN
JACK WOlfSKIN RESpONDS TO COmplAINTS COmING fROm mANufACTuRING fACIlITIES
Thecomplaintssystemisanorganisedprocessthatallowsemployeesofourmanufacturingpartnerstofilecomplaintsrelatingtonon-compliancewithoneorseveraloftherequirementsofourCodeofConduct.
soCial report 52 soCial report 53
05
soCial report 54 soCial report 55
Thetermcomplaintssystemmaysoundnegativeatfirst.How-ever,itactuallyindicatesapositiveaswellasprogressivepro-cess.Onlycompanieshavingthecouragetoaddressthecon-cerns and needs of their employees, are willing and able tochangeoperationsforthebetter.Thisusuallydoesnot“only”benefittheworkers,butultimatelyservestowardstheprosper-ityoftheentirecompany.Overall, it isevidentthatthenumberofcomplaintsissteadilyincreasing.Thisweregardasapositivesign.Itdemonstratesthat theworkers in themanufacturing facilities by now havesuchconfidenceinthesystem,thattheyaresharingtheirwor-ries anddistresswithout fearing any negative repercussions.Thisinturnallowsus,astheclientofthemanufacturingfacili-ties,tointerveneandparticipateinanactiveandpositivedia-loguewithourmanufacturingpartner-evenasanintermediarybetweenmanagementandworkers.
Shouldworkers in amanufacturing facility face an issue theycannotresolveviastandardapproach-i.e.byspeakingtotheirsuperiorsormanagement-theymaycontactJACKWOLFSKINortheFWF,oruseCombox.com,acomplaintssystemwehavespecificallysetupforthispurpose.Ifdesired,thismayalsobedoneanonymously.Wewillinvestigateeachcomplaintand,ifnecessary, also involve localFWFemployeesorother stake-holders. We attempt to understand the issue in detail, alsoconsideringtheperspectivesofallpartiesinvolved.Thishelpsto avoid exposing, accusing or prejudging individual people.Instead,weareaimingto identifya fairand legallycompliantsolution.Webelieveitiscrucialthatthoseconcerned,ifatallpossible,engageinpersonaldialogue.Insomecases,amedia-tormustbeinvolvedsoastoestablishasuitableandfairat-mosphereforthedialogue.ThemediatorrolemaybeassumedbyFWFemployeesorevenbyJACKWOLFSKIN.
WHy IS A “COmplAINTS SySTEm” NECESSARy If COmplIANCE WITH SOCIAl STANDARDS IS mONITORED?
HOW ExACTly DOES THE COmplAINTS SySTEm WORK?
ViatheFWF,employeesofmanufacturingfacilitiescollaborat-ingwithFWFmembercompanies,aregiven theopportunitytodirectlyconsultanoutsideauthority,shouldtheyencounterdifficulties.Thus,theymaybereassuredthattheirconcernswillbetreatedwithabsoluteconfidentiality,ifsodesired.FWFmember companies are obliged to consider each individu-al complaint in detail. They bear the responsibility that eachissuewillbeaddressedwithallparties involvedand, ifpos-sible,resolved.Thissystemisakeyelementforimplementingsound, social and fair working conditions. In particular, thesystemprovidesavoiceforeverysingleworkerandisthere-forethefoundationoftheCodeofConduct.
the meChanism in the Complaints proCedure: open dialogue With all staKeholders
JACKWOLFSKINRESPONDSTOCOMPLAINTSCOMINGFROMMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
Itmaybethecase, that theworker’sconcerncannotbere-solved within themanufacturing facility, because she or hedoesnotreceiveanysupportfromimmediatesuperiors,em-ployee representatives ormanagement. Possibly one of thepartiesimplicatedinthecomplaintssystemmayevenbethecauseofthecomplaint.
Inalmostallcases,opendialogueaboutaspecificissueisthekeytoresolvingtheconflict.Oftencomplaintsarecausedduemanagement’sorworkers’ falseexpectationsandneitherad-dressestheproblemuntilitescalates.However,nearlyallcom-plaintsmay be taken care ofwith relative ease, if all partiesinvolvedareopentoconsidertheotherparty’sperspective.Inourexperience,veryvaluableaswell,isapersonalmeeting,inwhichanimpartialobserver,whoisnotinvolvedintheconflict,is present. This role is often assumedby FWF employees,externalmediatorsorJACKWOLFSKINemployees.
COmplAINT fOR WHICH THE COmplAINT HOTlINE mAy bE ADDRESSED
SuCCESSfully RESOlvING COmplAINTS
UsesFWFcomplainthotlinetoforwardhisorhercomplainttotheFWForJACKWOLFSKINandreceivesupportforthespecificissue
BothFWFandJACKWOLFSKINacknowl-edgebothperspectivesregardingthecom-plaintandthenattempttoresolvetheissueby encouraging dialogue and, if required,further investigation, consultation on legalimplications,orbymediation.Thusreachinganagreementbetweenallpartiesinvolved.
ResolutionoftheissuethroughsupportfromFWFandJACKWOLFSKIN
Do you have QUESTIONS about your salary, working
hours or any of these other issues?
If you want more information, or feel you have not been treated correctly:
If these don’t work, you can email Fair Wear:
1
2
3
[email protected]@Fair Wear will always treat your complaint confidentially. If you wish to file a complaint, we will investigate the issue. If possible, we will help you to solve the issue you have raised. Fair Wear is an independent, nonprofit organisation. You can learn more at www.fairwear.org
Talk to your supervisor, if possible
Talk to your representative if there is a worker committee
Get advice from your union or from a charity
1Employment
is freely chosen
2Freedom of
association and the right to collective
bargaining
3No discrimination
in employment
4No exploitation
of child labour
5Payment of a
living wage
6Reasonable hours
of work
7Safe and healthyworking conditions
8A legally binding
employment relationship
Detailsonthecomplaintfromemployer‘sperspective
Chart external process for resolving complaints
TheFWFinvestigatesthecomplaintandforwardsittoJACKWOLFSKIN.JACKWOLFSKINthenapproachesthefacility‘smanagementtoreviewthespecificcomplaintandlearnthemanagement‘sviewregarding
soCial report 56 soCial report 57
JACKWOLFSKINRESPONDSTOCOMPLAINTSCOMINGFROMMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
Aworkercomplainsaboutanissuetoherimmedi-atesupervisor,employeerepresentativeormanage-ment,seekingtoresolvethespecificissue.Therespectivecontactpersonreactsappropriatelyandsupportstheworkerinre-solvingtheissue.
COmplAINT, THAT mAy bE RESOlvED WITHIN THE COmpANy
Chartexemplaryprocessforresolvingcomplaints
WorkerSuperior
Complaint
Issue will be resolved
Worker Superior
Complaint
Cannotresolvetheissueoritselfiscauseforcomplaint
ComPLAINT No. 786 (CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates: ChinaAtotalofeightFWFmembercompaniescommissiontheirproductsatthismanufacturingfacility.
The complaint relates to the following claims:Freechoiceofworkplace;nodiscrimination;salary;legallybindingemploymentcontract
Complaint status: The FWF confirms that complaint has been resolved.AllcasedetailsrepublishedonFWF’swebsite.
ComPLAINT No. 296 (CasenumbersassignedbyFWF
Country where complaint originates: TurkeyThecasewashandledincooperationbyanFWFmemberandamemberoftheFairLabourAssociation(FLA)
The complaint relates to the following claims:Freeunionization
Complaint status: The FWF confirms that complaint has been resolved. Allcasedetailsarepub-lishedonFWF’swebsite.
overvieW of Complaint Cases in fisCal year 2018/2019
ComPLAINT No. 616
(CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates:
Indonesia
ThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKIN
The complaint relates to the following claims:
Nodiscrimination;salary;legallybindingemployment
contract
Complaint status:
The FWF confirms that the issue cannot be
resolved by JACK WoLFSKIN. The case was
closed, the issue could not be resolved
satisfactorily for the submitting individual.
AllcasedetailsarepublishedonFWF’swebsite.
ComPLAINT No. 790 (CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates: ChinaThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKIN
The complaint relates to the following claims:legallybindingemploymentcontract
Complaint status: The FWF confirms that complaint has been resolved. AllcasedetailsarepublishedonFWF’swebsite.
ComPLAINT No. 807 (CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates: VietnamThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKINandtwofurtherFWFmembers.
The complaint relates to the following claims:Salary;legallybindingemploymentcontract
Complaint status:Allpartiesinvolvedarecurrentlystillworkingtoresolvetheissue;theFWFwasonsitetomedi-atebetweentheconflictingpartiesandhasalsoprovidedlegaladvice.Thecomplaintisstillbeingprocessed;theFWFwillpublishcasedetailsonitswebsiteassoonaspossible.
Complaint No. 749 (CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates: VietnamThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKINandonefurtherFWFmember
The complaint relates to the following claims:Workhours;safeandhealthyworkingconditions;le-gallybindingemploymentcontract
Complaint status: The FWF has closed the case as the person who submitted the complaint could no longer be reached. Furthermore, work hours are closely monitored by the companies that commission products at the manufacturer.AllcasedetailsarepublishedonFWF’swebsite.
ComPLAINT No. 778(CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates: ChinaThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKIN
The complaint relates to the following claims:Salary;legallybindingemploymentcontract
Complaint status: The FWF has closed the case, as it was not pos-sible to reach a proper conclusion regarding the issue. AllcasedetailsarepublishedonFWF’swebsite.
ComPLAINT No. 693
(CasenumbersassignedbyFWF)
Country where complaint originates:
myanmar
ThecasewashandledbyJACKWOLFSKINandone
furtherFWFmember
The complaint relates to the following claims:
legallybindingemploymentcontract;salary;
safeandhealthyworkingconditions
Complaint status:
The FWF has closed the case as the person who
submitted the complaint could no longer be
reached. The FWF can confirm, however, that
management of the manufacturing facility has
adequately investigated the issue. The FWF rec-
ommended a WEP training (whichwasalready
conductedinNovember2019).Allcasedetailsare
publishedonFWF’swebsite.
soCial report 58 soCial report 59
JACKWOLFSKINRESPONDSTOCOMPLAINTSCOMINGFROMMANUFACTURINGFACIL IT IES
JACK WOlfSKIN’S COmmITmENT bEyOND ITS COmmERCIAl OpERATIONS
To us, building trust is very important. Therefore,wewish to establishmaximumtransparencyinallprocesses.Since2014wehavebeenlistingallourmanufactur-ingpartnersandtheirrespectivefacilitiesonourwebsite.Furthermore,wealwaysprovideup-to-dateinformationregardingtheimplementationofsocialandecologicalstandards.
soCial report 60 soCial report 61
06
soCial report 62 soCial report 63
ENGAGEMENTVONJACKWOLFSKINüBERDIE E IGENEGESCHäFTSTäTIGKEIT HINAUS
Our products’ supply chains are very complex. Themajorityofourproductsareassembled frommany individualcompo-nents.This includesfabrics,aswellaszippers,buttons,etc.,eachsuppliedbydifferentmanufacturersfromdifferentcoun-tries.Theassemblyofallthesefabricsandcomponentsintoafinishedproductisthefinalstepinthemanufacturingprocess.Thisso-calledfinishingtakesplaceinthemanufacturingfacili-tieswecommission.Thisismostlydonebyhandandrequiresalotofmanpower.Therefore,alargenumberofindividualsareinvolvedinthisprocess,whichiswhycompliancewithsocialstandardsandtheimplementationoffairandsafeworkingcon-ditionsareparticularlyimportant.Webelievethatthepracticalimplementationofsocialstandardsisreflectedbytransparencyand disclosure of detailed specifics. Consequently, we havebeendisclosingourmanufacturingpartners’andtheirfacilities’addressesaswellastherespectiveoutcomesofthelatestso-cialauditsasearlyas2014.
Allmanufacturingfacilitiesarelistedhere:https://www.jack-wolfskin.com/supply-chain.html#manufacturer
Each manufacturing partner has a so-called supplier code,whichwealsolistonthetransparencypage.Thissuppliercodemaybefoundoneachofourapparelandequipmentproductsonthemarket.Thus,referringtothiscode,allourcustomersmayidentifytherespectivemanufacturingpartnerwhohasmadethisparticularproduct,andviaourtransparencypageobtaindetailedknowl-edgeontheconditionsatthatspecificmanufacturingfacility.
JACKWOLFSKINactivelyseekstoengagewithvariousstake-holders (e.g. NGOs, consumers, trade associations, tradeunions)topromotefairandsafeworkingconditions inmanu-facturing facilities and in the supply chain. After all, only byactivelyexchangingideas,wewillbeabletomakeprogress.Inparticular,weattendtheannualFWFstakeholdermeetingsandconferences;activelysupportNGOs in theirqueriesandpro-jects,andfurthermoreengageinactivedialoguewithourcus-tomers,addressingsustainabilitytopics.Attradefairs,confer-ences,lecturesaswellaspaneldiscussions,wevalueandalsopromotetheopenexchangeof ideaswithall interestgroups.This stakeholder dialogue provides uswith valuable externalinputandprovidesuswithnewinspiration.
Weareactiveatourmain location,aswell.WesupportVitosBehindertenhilfe in Idstein. Vitos Behindertenhilfe enableschildrenandadolescentswithlearningormentaldisabilities,startingfromtheageofsixyears,toliveinsmalllivinggroups.Inthesegroupstheyareindividuallymentoredbytrainedcar-egivers and therapists who help them strengthen their per-sonalities,capabilitiesandtalents.Theobjectiveistoenablethe protégés to lead as self-determined a life as possiblewhentheyreachadulthood.Weconsiderthecommitmentofthischaritytobeparticularlyvaluableandhavebeensupport-ive inmanywayssince2014.Frequently,wedonate for theworkwiththedisabledandorganiseanannual“Wolf‘sRun“,across-countryevent foreverybody, theproceedsofwhichalsogotoVitos.Furthermore,weassigntasksandsmalljobstotheteenagersincare,forinstancegardeningonourcampus.
Toprovideaneasyoverview,wehaveorganizedmanufacturingfacilitiesintothreecategories.“Pioneers”wedecoratewiththe“Gold”label.Manufacturingfacilitiesthatalreadyperformwell,butstillofferpotentialfor improvement,areawarded“Silver”.Thosemanufacturingfacilitiesthatarestillatanearlystagere-gardingfairandsafeworkingconditions,butalsodemonstrateacommitmenttoimprove,areawardedthe“Bronze”label.
Supply CHAINS DISClOSED ONlINE
RATING Of mANufACTuRING fACIlITIES
Infiscalyear2018/2019,wewereabletoawardfortymanufacturingfacilitieswith“Gold”andtwenty-sixwiththe“Silver”label.Noneofthemanufacturingfacilitiesreceivedthe“Bronze”award.However,therearetwomanufacturingfacilitiesthathavenotyetbeenrated.
JaCK WolfsKin transparently disCloses its supply Chain
proaCtive and open dialogue With our staKeholders
Commitment to soCial responsibility at JaCK WolfsKin headquarters
Where does my produCt originate?
40 26 0
20 20soCial report 64 soCial report 65
Goals
soCial report 67
GOALSFOR2020
When attempting to implement higher social standards, weconstantlyset thebarhigherand thusworkhard tocontinu-ously and sustainably further improve the collaboration withourpartners.WewillcontinuetofrequentlyvisitoursupplierssoastoactivelysupportthemonsitewiththeimplementationofourCodeofConduct.
Currently, we are working to stabilize the supplier base forproduct category footwear and further qualify our suppliersthroughtrainingmeasures.Wecontinuetofocusonestablishinglivingwagesatourpart-ners’ facilities. Alsowe continue tomotivate our partners tograduallyestablish the targetwages.To thisend,wewillusetheanchormethodmentionedaboveasabasisforcalculatinglivingwages.
PUBLISHER
JACKWOLFSKIN
AUSRüSTUNGFüRDRAUSSENGmbH&Co.KGaA
D-65510Idstein
www.jack-wolfskin.com
EDITORIAL
MelanieKuntnawitz&AnjaHeinemann-VendorControl
LAYOUT
KaselDesignbüro,Düsseldorf
GOAlS fOR 2020?
ImpRINT
JACKWOLFSKINAusrüstungfürDraussenGmbH&Co.KGaA,JackWolfskinKreisel1∙65510Idstein/Ts.,Germany
RückfragengerneperMail:[email protected]