sligo - set your spirit free

SLIGO

THE IRISH TIMESA Special Report Wednesday, July 6, 2011

To cherish memories forever, you have to live them first. Experience world class surfing at Strandhill, or immerse yourself in the spectacular landscapes of Ben Bulben or the Ox Mountains. Horse riding, trekking, mountain biking, kite surfing, golfing or just lazily walking some of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland – in Sligo you’re free to do it all.

discoverireland.ie

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P28422 FI SLIGO Beach IT Supp. 257x175 CB.indd 1 27/06/2011 12:00

OUT OF THE BLUE You don’t always need asurfboard to catch a water buzz in Sligo

FAMILY FUN From swooping raptors to ceramicpainting there are thrills for all the family

SLIGO MAP

STAY AND PLAY Accommodation to suit alltastes and pockets

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WAVES OF PLEASURE Surf beaches worthseeking out

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THAT’S ENTERTAINMENT The manyreasons to visit Sligo over the coming months

BUY BUY BABY Go on a spending spreein Sligo

SLIGO

POETIC LEGACY Sligo’s cultural highlights gowell beyond the literary heritage of Yeats

ON THE TOWN The very best of Sligonightlife

SOUL FOOD Replenish body and soulwith seaweed baths and bracing walks

ALL IN GOOD TASTE Fine dining and freshproduce are abundant in Sligo town and county

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TEE TIME The county is home to some of thebest, most understated golf courses in Ireland

FRONT COVER IMAGE: Benbulben from Streedagh beachSLIGOEDITOR: Madeleine Lyons PRODUCTION EDITOR: John Lane CONTACT: Special Reports Department, The Irish Times, Tara St, Dublin 2TEL: 01-675 8000 E-MAIL: [email protected] ADVERTISING: 01-675 8585 E-MAIL: [email protected]

Every care has been taken in the compilation of this magazine to ensure accuracy at the time of publication. The Irish Times cannot accept responsibility foromissions, or alterations occurring after the guide has been published.

Index

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An Irish Times Special Report in association with

WE’RE MAKING schoolboyerrors all over DarylEwing’s fishing boat andwe’ve barely left the

harbour at Rosses Point. I’vealready speared the tip of my fingerwith a fish hook and my fishingcompanion Ciaran Duggan hasshown up dressed as the mostunprepared fisherman in the world.Thankfully, Ewing and theexperienced fishermen on board areso distracted by his denim jacketand flip flops they don’t notice myineptitude.

It’s a fine day for it all the same,and chugging out from RossesPoint it’s easy to see why so manypeople use fishing as a refuge fromall the troubles of the mainland.Seagulls bounce along optimisticallyin our wake, the waves areslapping happily at the bottom ofEwing’s Sea Star, and the banter ondeck is cheerful – it seems only thefish have anything to be worriedabout.

And worry they should, becausewhat we lack in preparation andability we more than make up for inbolts of beginners’ luck. After a fewunsuccessful stops, Ewing puttersthe boat to a fresh spot, bait is

changed, and soon the regular pullon the rod is replaced by a sharptug – coley fish, small and playful,but not much worth eating, aresoon clogging up the reels. Then wehit a shoal of mackerel, and up theycome, three or four to a line,beautiful purple-green scalesglinting in the sun that, now andagain, emerges.

We change location and Ewingadvises us to drop the lines fast toget through the clouds of mackereland hunt the bigger game – pollockmostly, a much more robust fishand acres more fun on the line. Atthe prime spots at the back of theboat that the other fishermen arekind enough to give up to usnovices, we’re making a merryblood bath, and soon the catchbucket is filling up with reams ofmackerel, a fine brace of pollock, adogfish and the odd gurnard(which, it turns out later, is a

revelation on the fork). The pollockare the best to try to catch, pullinghard on the rod and bending itdown with a solid, underwaterwrestle. There are few moresatisfying feelings than landing afine glinting fish to the cheers ofyour new mates.

We change bait and tactics again,bouncing chunks of freshly cutmackerel along the bottom of thesea slowly, trying to tempt a bottomfeeder, with ray at the top of themost-wanted list.

“If you feel a pull, leave it alonefor 30 seconds or so, then bring it insteady,” advises Ewing. A ray’smouth is underneath its large, flatbody and it will bite on the bait, butthe trick is in giving it time to get upon top of what it thinks is an easy

SLIGO ADVENTURE

Hook,line,sinkerThe wild waters ofSligo are second tonone for those insearch of adventure.Laurence Mackindived in head first

4 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo | July 6, 2011

The revelatory red gurnard.Photographs: Laurence Mackin

meal before reeling it in.Twenty minutes – and another

shot of luck across the bows – laterand two ray are ready for hangingfor a day or two so they are readyfor cooking and eating.It’s a decent day’s haul, and after

stopping off for a few barely earnedpints in the beautiful Beach Bar inAughris Head (see pages 24-26)and the cosy pub on Coney Island(there’s only one, see page 23) wehead for port. En route, EoinMcLoughlin and Peter Callaghangut the fish cleanly and precisely,despite the rolling sea, spits andsqualls. Ewing’s most regularpassenger, a large seagull, George,takes up his post on the trawler’scabin roof. Most seagulls follow aboat in the hope of getting a feweasy morsels, but George is analtogether more regal characterand demands to be hand-fed.Once back at Rosses Point, we

head to Austies restaurant, wherestaff whisk the bulging bags of freshcatch off to the kitchen and preparea feast fit for a fleet of fishermenkings, while we sup creamy, dreamypints of Guinness and take in theview. We’d have asked the crew tojoin us but there’s no point – notone of the hardy fishermanhas any interest in eatingwhat they catch (it’sclear we’re not theonly ones makingschoolboy errorswhen the plates ofdelicious fisharrive, includingthat revelatorygurnard).Daryl Ewing,

fisherman, skipper,quantity surveyor,web designer andall-round top bloke,organises sightseeing and

fishing trips aboard the Sea Star.Full- or half-day and evening tripsare available, with all gearprovided. The catch-and-cookoption is not to be missed.■ Tel: 086-891 3618,sligoboatcharters.com

STRANDHILL IS WELL knownfor its surfing, and if you aregoing to hit the waves, then

make sure to get a few pointersfrom the appropriately namedPerfect Day surf school. OwnersTom and Simone Hickey have beenrunning the school since 1998. Theirsurfing coaches, led by daughterElisha, are charged with enthusiasmfor all sports waterborne.Our instructor does his best not

to laugh at my pathetic attempts tostay on top of some admittedlydifficult surf (the waves are toosmall to compensate for my lack ofbalance, and crumble into whitewater after a few seconds) and fullof advice as to what I’m doingwrong – not to mention stronglyencouraging during the few secondswhen something inexplicably goesright.After the challenges of the open

sea, though, we’re after a moreserene experience, and this iswhere Tom and Simone’s latestoffering comes in. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) is a relatively newphenomenon in this part of theworld and is a different challengefrom surfing, although it is still aterrific workout – big-wave pioneerLaird Hamilton is messianic in hisdevotion to it.We drive beyond Sligo town to

Doorley park and pontoon, wherewe unload four large SUP boards.Tom and Simone talk us throughthe stance, feet beside each otherand fairly far apart, knees bent andback straight. In minutes we’re

standing a little shakilyon the water. Withpaddles in hand,we move intothe wind,pushingourselvesalong withslow, solidstrokes.This

couldn’t befurther fromthe hustle ofsurfing. There’s

time to appreciatethe scenery as we

SLIGO ADVENTURE

THE IRISH TIMES Sligo | July 6, 2011 | 5

Trá Bán in Strandhillcooks one of the best

post-surf meals in the west.Impeccable service and a well-pricedwinelist complement unfussy foodwith top-drawer ingredients. Startersof mussels set us up nicely for thesteak with a half tail of lobster thatbarely left room for pints downstairsin the Strand bar. 071-912 8402,

trabansligo.ie

SLIGO ADVENTURE

cruise down the Garavogue riverand into Sligo town. Once you hityour rhythm of paddle and stroke,it’s a blissful experience. When weturn around, and the brisk wind isat our backs, the effort needed ishalved. It’s a breeze to chat whileusing our bodies as sails in theoccasional big gust, letting thecurrent wind us slowly down river.As strange as it seems to be

standing straight up on a board andmoving on water, it feels natural.Expect SUP to win converts at arapid rate.■ Perfect Day Surfing, Strandhill. tel:087-202 9399, perfectdaysurfing.com

THE ORIGINAL PLAN was tohave a go at kitesurfing. But aswith all watersports, especially

given Irish conditions, there needsto be a back-up plan, and when thewinds fail to live up to ourexpectations, we opt to try sailing.I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t

slightly relieved. Kitesurfing is oneof the tougher sports to try.Generally, those who want to learncommit to a set of lessons to getover the steep learning curve.Sailing, though, can be enjoyedfrom the off.LSD Kiteboarding, run by Eamon

and Peter Armstrong, based inRosses Point, offers both options.We meet Eamon on the slipway ofthe Sligo Yacht Club as a Fireballcompetition heads out into thewater – this is not a test of the gods,but a small, light class of boat with acrew of two that will rip through thewater and turn through 180 degreesin a heartbeat.Our boat is a larger, more basic

(and more stable) version and

Armstrong walks us through thevarious manoeuvres we will bepractising on the water. Once we’rewet-suited and lifejacketed up, wepush the boat out and climb aboard,taking positions to keep the weightevenly distributed.From the shore it may look slow,

but on the water the boat feels likeit’s rattling along at a speedy rate ofknots. Keeping the various sails intrim is harder than it looks andwhen the boat rears almost on to itsside, we have to lean over the otherside, feet held in stirrups, to preventthe whole thing capsizing. It’s allbrilliant, energetic fun, never moreso than when we get to turn a handto tilling. Experienced sailors makethis look effortless, but I find itdifficult to even hold a conversationwhile keeping the surprisinglysensitive boat travelling in a vaguely

straight line, using landmarks andthe sails’ string guides as pointers.As we head for shore, hands tired

from holding ropes, minds drainedfrom studying the horizon, theFireballs are swirling around oneanother in a frenzy of sails andshouts. Sailing may not have thecutting-edge cool of kitesurfing, butit’s got enough thrills and spills tokeep the heart pumping and theadrenaline running high.■ LSD Kiteboarding, Rosses Point.tel: 086-805 1390, lsdkiteboarding.com


The Garavogue river makesits way into Sligo town

Fireballs in Sligo bayPhotograph: Joe St Leger

STAYING INSTRANDHILL

We stayed in the Strandhill Lodgeand Suites, four-star accommodation.Rooms are large and very comfortable,with beautiful views. The breakfast iscontinental (a fry will only weigh youdown on the water anyway) and serveduntil a languid 10.30am. Rooms from¤99 – good value for top-quality

accommodation.

MAP


Co SLIGO

SLIGO

N59To EnniscroneBallina

N4

N4To BoyleDublin

N16To Enniskillen

N17To TobercurryKnock Airport

Galway

N15To Donegal

R291

R292R278

R287

R284

R284

R292

SLIGO ROADS

Map courtesy of Ordnance Survey Ireland

EATING EN MASSEFor a weekend of action or astaycation with the kids, Sligo haslots of good options for chowingdown with a gang.

Hargadons, O’Connell Street, Sligo,071-9153709, hargadons.comLocal chef Joe Grogan is busyinstilling new life into this belovedlocal institution. Besides a greatpint and the chance of a tune or

two, expect delicious home-bakingin the afternoons, hearty lunchesand a dinner menu that lists localsuppliers.

Coach Lane Restaurant @Donaghy’s Bar, Lord EdwardStreet, Sligo, 071-9162417,coachlane.ieChef Andy Donaghy combinestradition with innovation in thisaward-winning restaurant, making

it as good a choice for chowder,buffalo wings or steak as it is forzuppa di pesce, quesadillas orBluebell Falls goats’ cheese.

Trá Bán Restaurant, Strandhill, CoSligo, 071-9128402, trabansligo.ieWith views beyond the whitestrands below out to Inishmurrayisland, this award-winningfamily-friendly restaurant above theStrand Bar has a wide menu

SLIGO DINING

Chowdown!Aoife Carrigy discovers the tastiest ways toforage your way around Sligo town and county,whatever the budget, occasion or appetite

8 | THE IRISH TIMES Sligo | June 9, 2011

Shells Cafeemphasisesgood local food

ranging from local seafood totraditional steaks, served with atwist by Ducasse-trained head chef,Julian Regneres.

Davis’s Restaurant @ The YeatsTavern, Drumcliff, Co Sligo,071-9163117,yeatstavernrestaurant.comWhether you’re after a quick biteafter visiting Yeats’s grave orwalking Benbulben, for a Sundayroast or a take-away pizza, thislong-established family pub servesup so much more than bar food.

Try also:Shells (p10), The Waterfront (p10),Osta Cafe &Wine Bar (p10), LyonsCafe (p10)

DINING A DEUXWhile its long strands and woodedlakelands are perfect for romanticbreaks, Sligo also boasts greatshopping, making it an equally goodbase for a girls’ catch-up – and ithas several special fine-diningexperiences to spoil yourself with.

Conrad’s Kitchen, RockwoodParade, Sligo, 071-9119400,conradskitchen.comDonegal-born Conrad Gallagherneeds little introduction, so loudlydoes his reputation precede him.His cooking tends to be as solidlyskilful as his story is colourful, and

DINING SLIGO

THE IRISH TIMES SLIGO | June 9, 2011 | 9

SLIGO MAY NOT (yet) beas well known for itsabundance of local food

producers as other prettypockets of rural Ireland, butthe team at Source are keento change that.Sligo town’s new landmark

food emporium takes in arestaurant, deli, wine bar andcookery school over itsthree-floor sprawl, and eachelement is playing its ownpart in helping to encourage,promote and shape a thrivinglocal food culture.The kitchen’s menu strives

to be as local as possible,showcasing the bestproducers alongside freshproduce plucked from theirown polytunnels. On thetop-floor in the cookeryschool, with its views ofBenbulben, long-establishedlocal chef Eithna O’Sullivanstrives to integrate into herbroad range of classes thelocal produce featured in thegrowing deli sectiondownstairs. She also has high hopesthat some of the moreindustry-focused courses will helpto give budding artisan producersthe skills and confidence to follow

their culinary dreams. And evenmuch of the wine served in themiddle-floor wine bar has a strongSligo connection, being coaxed fromthe grapes of Terramonti vineyard,

another string to the bow ofbusiness partners JoeGrogan and Ray and EileenMonahan.Flexibility is key to the

Source experience, wherehungry punters can choosefrom stocking up, casualgrazing or the full monty of asit-down meal.This is reflected in the

range of cookery courses,which include the fun FridayNight Wine; Dine and Demoofferings as well as somehands-on classes such as theCatch & Cook experiencewhich will test your fishingskills as well as stretch yourcooking repertoire.Source even takes its

broad offering off-site, with aregular stall anddemonstrations at the localfarmers' market.Ambitious it may be, but

judging from the calibre ofthis team's individualreputations as well as thedepth of their combined

experience, Source is equipped toweather these hard times.

■ Source, John St, Sligo,071-9147605, sourcesligo.ie

A FUTURE INSTITUTION

SLIGO DINING

the recent relocation suggestsConrad’s Kitchen will continue tocall Sligo home.

Coopershill House, Riverstown, CoSligo, 071-9165108, coopershill.comThough the four-course dinner andafternoon tea are available to non-residents, you’ll want to stay in thisstunning Blue Book country househotel, not least so you can wanderin the vegetable gardens fromwhich much of the menu is sourced.Don’t miss their award-winningvenison when in season.

Bella Vista, Strandhill, Co Sligo,071-9122222,bellavista.ieLocated beside the sea in the scenicsurfing village of Strandhill, BellaVista Bar & Bistro has a reputationfor good food and value. The newlyopened Waves@Bella Vistarestaurant offers something foreveryone from 10am-10pm daily,including breakfast, lunch, pizzas,pastas, Early Bird Menu and a kidsmenu.

Moira’s Restaurant, CromleachLodge Hotel, Castlebaldwin, CoSligo, 071-9165155, cromleach.comExpect serious attention to detail atMoira Tighe’s critically-acclaimedrestaurant, open to non-residents,as is Nuada’s Bar. Stay over so youcan work up an appetite in thistranquil walking country, or simplyindulge at the in-house Ciúnas Spa.

Try also:Trá Bán Restaurant (p8); Osta Cafe&Wine Bar (below); Source (p9)

SLIGO ONA PLATESometimes a place is a such a localinstitution, you simply couldn’t

imagine it being anywhere else andsometimes places arequintessentially local thanks topainstaking sourcing. Either way,Sligo has plenty of places to trulycall its own.

Shells Cafe, Strandhill, Co Sligo,071-9122938, shellscafe.comKeen surfers Myles and JaneLamberth set up their dream of aseaside bakery and cafe in

Strandhill, having met surfside inCornwall. There’s an emphasis onaffordable local dishes with a realsense of personality, and fun eventsto keep the crowds flocking here.

Lyons Cafe, Quay Street, Sligo,071-9142969, garystafford.comGary Stafford’s in-store cafe openedin 1923 in what was already thenthe long-serving Lyons DepartmentStore. People go for the traditionalbaking and fresh salad bar – andcome back for exotic specials suchas chicken with citrus and sumak.Their new venture, Slice at theModel offers similar fare as well asSunday brunch.

Osta Cafe & Wine Bar, GaravogueWeir View, Sligo, 071-9144639,osta.ieFrom the new 30-mile (48km)breakfast (all sourced within a30-mile radius) right through to theoft-foraged-for specials and dailytapas menu, slow food enthusiastand dedicated supporter of localproducers, Brid Torrades’ food isalways infused with a sense of place.

The Waterfront, Rosses Point, CoSligo, 071-9177122,waterfrontrestaurant.ieUnder new management, the viewsof Sligo Bay haven’t changed in thismecca of waterside dining, and norhas its emphasis on great localseafood, now under the steerage ofhead chef Brian Fox.

Try also:Coopershill (p9); Source (p9)


Top: Andrew Donaghy of Coach Lane. Above: Coopershill House

Localproduce■ Lindy O’Hara’s Coopershillvenison (smoked and fresh inseason)■ Charlie Kelly’s Lisadell clams,mussels and oysters■ Colm O’Donnell’s Ox mountainlamb■ Betty and Frank Melvin’sCarraig Fhada seaweeds fromEaskey. See Sligo native PrannieRhatigan’s superb ‘Irish SeaweedKitchen’ cookbook for inspiration.■ Gary Stafford’s The HungryRock savoury preserves■ Local butcher Keith Clarke’sKnocknarea honey■ Ballisodare Free Range Eggs

Ann Donovan■ Woodville Farm’s free rangeeggs. Collect by hand on the openfarm. 071-9162741 to book.

. . . and where to find them:■ Origin Farmers’ Market, SligoIT Sports Field Car Park,Saturdays9am-1pm■ Source, John St, sourcesligo.ie■ Kate’s Kitchen, Castle St,kateskitchen.ie■ Cafe Fleur, O’Connell St,cafefleur.ie■ Gourmet Parlour, Bridge St,gourmetparlour.com

THE USUAL SUSPECTSTonic for the soulThe Radisson offers the rightbalance of hospitality andpampering. It’s Friday nightsummer barbecue on the terrace isa local favourite and helps visitorskickstart the weekend. Two nightsB&B and one evening meal costsfrom ¤139pps. Under 16s stay freebut pay for meals. Escape the familyfor a couple of hours to the SolasWellness spa, where an Espa skin

radiance treatment, which includesa full body massage, back scrub andmini-facial, is an 85-minuteindulgence that costs ¤99.■ Radisson Blu Hotel and Spa, RossesPoint, Ballincar. 071-9140008,radissonblu.ie/hotel-sligo

Great golf and spaIf you prefer a more rural setting torelax in, Castle Dargan Golf Hoteland Wellness is a new-build resortframed by castle ruins that are

visible from the second and 16thholes of its Darren Clarke-designedgolf course. Fans include Westlife’sMark Feehily and Shane Filan.Walled garden suites cost from¤139pps for two nights B&B andone dinner, while the old house cansleep up to eight and is ideal for asmall group or wedding party. TheElemis spa offers pampering.■ Castle Dargan Golf Hotel andWellness, Ballygawley. 071-9118080,castledargan.com

RoomswiththeviewsFrom secret, salmon-stocked waterfalls and legendary landmarks tosome of the best mountain views in the country, Sligo hasaccommodation options to suit all tastes, writes Alanna Gallagher

ACCOMMODATION SLIGO


Cromleach Lodge

THE GLASSHOUSE is acontemporary hotel situated inSligo town’s centre. Built on the

banks of the Garavogue river, thedecor is boutique hotel meets zanyprimary colours. The rooms are bigand spacious, with some of the

sixth-flooraccommodation offeringoutside balconies fromwhich you can enjoySligo’s landmarkmountain views.The Glasshouse is

especially popular withweekenders and nightowls. Explore the town’straditional bars;Hargadons is a Victorianinterior gastro pub withcharacter and cheapeats. The hotel has

underground parking. Rooms arefrom ¤79 room only mid-week and¤109 room only on weekends. B&Band one dinner costs from ¤179 pps.

■ The Glasshouse, Swan Point.071-9194301, theglasshouse.ie


Family funThe Sligo Park Hotel and LeisureClub is a family-friendlyestablishment that offers 137 roomswith rates from ¤79pps. The realvalue is in its two nights B&B andone dinner package, which costsfrom ¤149 pps. Ask for a roomfacing the garden. There are filmnights for kids with popcorn until9pm nightly, a great leisure centre,which includes water activities forchildren on rainy days, and music inthe bar.■ Sligo Park Hotel and Leisure Club,Pearse Road. 071-9190400,sligoparkhotel.com

GET AWAY FROM IT ALLCountry house chicCoopershill is a country house B&Brun by Simon O’Hara andBallymaloe-trained chef ChristineMcCauley. The family silver stilladorns the dining table for dinnerand breakfast. In season their fallowdeer provide them with smokedvenison and steaks, while thevegetable patch supplies all theirpotatoes, leeks, broccoli andtomatoes. The house has eightrooms, seven of which are en suite.Two nights B&B and one dinnercosts ¤239pps on weekends. A

house party rate of two nights B&B,with dinner, Sunday lunch andafternoon tea is ¤245 and requiresa minimum of 12 people.■ Coopershill, Riverstown.071-9165108, coopershill.com

Foodie findCromleach Lodge is a destination in

itself. It overlooks Lough Arrowand has a table dolmen to its rear,one of the many places Diarmuidand Gráinne are reputed to havebedded down for the night. Thedolmen walk is just one of many inthe local area where you can get upclose and personal with Sligo’sarchaeological heritage.

Cityslickercentral

Clockwisefrom left:StrandhillLodge andSuites;TempleHouse;Clarion Hotel

THE GLEN IS a little local secretworth seeking out in the lee ofKnocknarea. To find it, drive

out of Strandhill,along the TopRoad towardsCulleenduff. Afteryou pass the mostperfectly settumble-downcottage (now onthe market, andhands off,because I saw itfirst), keep an eyeout on the left forthe Glen Road,which risessharply. Take thisroad and watchthe right for apath that popsdown into a greentunnel (there’s also a small well onyour left). This is where you godown the rabbit hole and followthe muddy trail that bring you intothe Glen.There are no signposts and no

explanations for this naturalwonder. It’s in a place whereKnocknarea falls out of the sky

and heads towardsthe sea. A naturalevent, perhaps anearthquake, hasgouged a deepgrassy channelout of the rock,and over the pastcenturies, hugetrees have grownup its centre.When you walkinto the gorge, thesound drops awayand everythingbecomes still andhushed. Watertrickles down itswalls, and thegreen, cathedral-

like space feels cut off from anysense of time. This is a little pieceof magic in the Sligo hinterland,and all the better for being thatlittle bit tricky to find.

Laurence Mackin

SLIGOACCOMMODATION


THE GLEN, near StrandhillThe food is fantastic. Chef

proprietor Moira Tighe isself-taught and has a feel for flavourthat will make you want to extendyour stay. The establishment offerssuite accommodation with B&Bfrom ¤60pps. Two nights B&B in asuperior room and one dinner costsfrom ¤175pps.■ Cromleach Lodge Country Houseand Ciunas Spa, Lough Arrow,Castlebaldwin. 071-9165155,cromleach.com

Seaside suiteThe Strandhill Lodge and Suitesoffer balcony views of the Atlanticrollers and a chance to inhale thebracing fresh air without leavingyour room. Rooms cost from ¤99per night for bed and continentalbreakfast. One-bedroom suites,which can sleep up to four with twoon the sofa bed in the living room,cost from ¤119 per night.■ Strandhill Lodge and Suites.071-9122122,strandhilllodgeandsuites.com

OUT OF THE ORDINARYRock of agesTemple House is a 1,000-acrecountry pile that has been in thePerceval name since 1665. The

house has an old-world feel, withwonderful interior flourishes, suchas Italianate coving and cornicing,decorative marble fireplaces andoriginal furniture. It may bearistocratically shabby but it oozesauthenticity. There are six rooms,some of which can interconnect tocreate family suites. The house isalso available to book for house andshooting parties. B&B costs from¤75 pps. For two nights with onedinner served at a communal diningtable surrounded by Perceval familyportraits, it costs about ¤95pp.■ Temple House, Ballymote.071-9183329, templehouse.ie

Island lifeGet away from it all with aself-catering stay on Coney Island.Inish Mulclohy Lodge is atwo-bedroom converted barn thatcan sleep up to six. Situated fiveminutes from the beach, it costs¤550 per week in high season andthere is still summer availability forthe weeks beginning July 9th andAugust 13th. Drive on to the islandat low tide only and install

HIDDENGEM

SEASHORE HOUSE is atraditional B&B operated byAnn Campbell and is situated

at the edge of Ballysadare Bay, asalt marsh and special area ofconservation that boasts viewsof Knocknarea, reputed to behome to Queen Maeve’s tomb.Guests come for the views and

stay for the hospitality.Surrounded by fields, the sittingroom has an adjoiningconservatory where guests takebreakfast and turns on thetelescope to see the otherresidents of the area; duck,swans, and even salmon can beseen resting in the shallowwaters, with their tails poking upthrough the water indicatingtheir repose. A morning walkalong the bank, a raised stonewall built in the 19th century,will whet your appetite forbreakfast.Ask Ann to show you

Ballysadare Fishing Club, asecret setting hidden from viewwhere the falls offer thespectacular sight of salmonleaping to get to their spawninggrounds. Daily fishing fees cost¤100 and rods can be purchasedfrom the club. For furtherinformation call Dermot Gleesonon 086-2515064.Ann has four en-suite rooms

as well as a self-catering familyroom. Rooms cost from ¤35 B&Bpps. All have wifi.■ Seashore House B&B.071-9167827,seashoreguests.com

yourself in the Pub, theonly hostelry on the island.■ Inish Mulclohy Lodge, Coney Island.Tel: 047-88788 or contact EileenFerguson via nealgreig.com

Big house lifePrimrose Grange House is acountry house owned by theO’Donoghue-Symmons family. Inone of the wings is a self-contained,self-catering property with its ownentrance. Located in Knocknarea,the two-bedroom property cansleep up to seven. The bedroomshave sea views and include awelcome pack of soda bread,milk, butter and free-range eggsfrom the house’s chickens. Aminimum two-night stay costsfrom ¤250. The weekly rate is¤700.■ Grange House, Knocknarea,Strandhill. 087-2641979,luxuryselfcateringsligo.com

LIVEN UPBuzzy and boomingThe Clarion is one of Sligo’s busiesthotels, which is unsurprising giventhat its room rates start from ¤59.It offers boom-era décor, greatvalue bar food, and a buzz evenmidweek.■ Clarion Hotel Sligo, Clarion Road.071-9119000, clarionhotelsligo.com

Cheap sleepThe Best Western Sligo SouthernHotel and Leisure Centre is a welllocated and well-priced option thatis especially good for families on abudget. Two nights B&B plus onedinner costs from ¤99 pps. Threenights B&B for two adults and twochildren under 12 costs ¤299 and isavailable until August.■ Best Western Sligo Southern Hoteland Leisure Centre, Pearse Road.071-9162101, sligosouthernhotel.com

Shoestring stayThe Harbour House Hostel offersclean and simple accommodationfrom ¤25pps in its double rooms.This includes a continentalbreakfast. The communal loungehas a warm open hearth.■ Harbour House Hostel, FinisklinRoad, Sligo, Co Sligo. 086-2598293,harbourhousehostel.com

The informedbudget option

SLIGO ACCOMMODATION

Coopershill inRiverstown

Lough Gill and Yeats TourTake in the sights of

Yeats’ Grave, Glencar Waterfall,Parkes Castle then view the

Lake Isle of Innisfree on board theRose of Innisfree tour boat, run byGeorge McGoldrick. Mon-Sat fromSligo Tourist Office at 10.15am and

Markievicz Road at 10.30am.Returns to town at 2.30pm. Tour:

¤30 roseofinnisfree.com



IF YOU find yourself anywherenear Sligo city this summer, withchildren to entertain, doyourselves a favour and take a

short detour to thecountryside at

Portinch, nearBallymote,home to aplace calledEagles

Flying.

As the name and its subtitle, theIrish Raptor Research Centre,suggest, Eagles Flying is both abird show and an educationalfacility. But birds are only the halfof it. Run by German scientistLothar Muschketat, it also hosts awonderful menagerie of animals,mostly wild and in many casesrescued from unhappier fates.That they are now in good hands

is clear from theirdemeanour. These are

some of thehappiest and

most relaxed creatures you’ll see:from the peacocks sun-bathing onthe roof of a jeep, to the curiousbronze turkey who comes up andlooks you straight in the eye, to thepet ferrets, one of which was solaid-back that, stretching itself ontop of a wooden fence while havingits belly tickled, it fell off.The inmates of Muschketat’s pet

zoo range in size from a boxful ofmice – always a big draw withkids – to an enormous blackpot-bellied pig. But my ownfavourite was a female raccooncalled Grizzly whose party trick is toretrieve nuts and other food thatMuschketat puts in your pocket.Like a skilled revenue official,Grizzly will then empty those

pockets, now matter how tightor deep. And suffice to say

that being patted downby a female raccoon is

not something youexperienceevery day ofthe week.

Flightsoffamilyfancy Fearless children will be thrilled by the

raptors and wildlife, while those of a morecalm disposition will dig pottery classes,and there’s always the endless dunes toroll around in, writes Frank McNally

FAMILY DAYS SLIGO

A bald eagle at EaglesFlying in Ballymoate,Co Sligo. Photograph:James Connolly/PicSell8

SLIGO FAMILY DAYS


The main act at Eagles Flying,however, are the raptors: acollection of which includesHimalyan vultures, eagle owls, anda somewhat tragic buzzard that wasrescued – probably after being hitby a car while eating road kill – andnow suffers occasional seizures,triggered by such things as seeing amouse. These are not pets, as thebirds remind you by chomping theirway through their favourite snacks:fluffy day-old chicks. Even so, youcan get very close to them and theyto you.

During the twice-daily shows(11am and 3pm), a swooping sakerfalcon may zoom past your ear closeenough to flick you with afeather-tip, or, if you volunteer, aharris hawk will perch on youroutstretched arm, making shortwork of the chicken leg you’reholding between nervous thumband forefinger. The good news isthat you can trust the birdsimplicitly. These are flyingmachines of awe-inspiring speedand accuracy – they don’t makemistakes.

Back in Sligo, and by completecontrast except in its ability toamuse children for a precious houror two, is a little place calledHullabaloo. On John F KennedyParade, along the river bank, it’s apottery studio where the basicshapes – mugs, plates,motorbike-shaped ceramicpiggy-banks – are pre-supplied.

All you and the kids have to donow is paint them. The studioprovides the equipment along withany artistic guidance you need. Thepieces are then glazed and fired in akiln on site, before being posted orheld on site for collection.

Entertaining female children isclearly a speciality. The day wewere there, an all-girl party of 10was silently at work, utterlyabsorbed; the merchandise mightbe a bit fragile for a moreboisterous clientele. That said, ourclutch of two boys and a girl made itthrough the session withoutincident. And there is adesign-your-own teddy bear facility,too.

Highly recommended inSligo – and free – is a daily walkingtour of the city. It leaves from thetourist office on Temple Street,conducted on alternate morningsduring the summer by ArtMcCarrick and Eimear Scott. We

had McCarrick, a local schoolteacher, whose commentary was asentertaining as it was educational.

Stops include the William ButlerYeats statue on Stephen’sStreet – so located because, whenaccepting his Nobel prize, the poetclaimed that Stockholm’s RoyalPalace reminded him of the UlsterBank in Sligo, in front of which thestatue now stands – and the sign

Above, Eva Craig with a barn owlfrom Eagles Flying. Photographs:James Connolly/PicSell8Below, Classiebawn Castle,Mullaghmore with Benbulben inthe background.

THE Hazelwood forest recreationArea offers an unfussy, familyfriendly walk in a mature forestsettingalong thenorthwestshore ofLough Gill.Arriving,you’llnotice aline ofrowboatstied upunder thetrees atAnnaghBay:the originalplacenamebefore thedemesnebecamethe seat ofthe Wynne family. The parking spothas picnic benches and looks outonto a half-moon bay where a fewcrusts of bread will bring a fleet ofducks and swans gliding in. The

3km forest pathis level and rated multi-accessand is also a cleverly informative

nature trail.Numberedupright postsconcealswingingarms loadedwithinformation.Stop No 2,for instance,indicates abird tableand namesthe speciesyou mightsee, whileothernumberedsigns refer tothe specimenYew andDouglas Fir

trees, the limestone folly and theCrannog standing off shore againstthe hill of the two birds, SlieveDaene.

Brian Leyden


HAZELWOOD Forest

outside what must be the world’sbest-named law firm: Argue &Phibbs. The firm is long gone(replaced by another legalpractice), but the sign has rightlyacquired the status of heritage.

If you’re so minded, then,surrounded as it is by mountains,Sligo has plenty of opportunities formore vigorous exercise. Not,perhaps, on Ben Bulben, thedramatic backdrop for DrumcliffeChurchyard and Yeats’s grave,which is too steep and dangerousfor casual climbers and is probablybest enjoyed as scenery.

But on the other side of town isKnocknarea, anothertable-mountain of sorts, which iseasier to climb – you can be up anddown in an hour – and it has theadded attraction of Queen Maeve’sreputed burial place on top: a hugestone cairn, still unexcavated, inwhich the dead queen is said tohave been planted standing up,facing her ancient enemies fromUlster.

Not far from there, and another

of Sligo’s free attractions, are thetowering sand dunes of Strandhill.This is a great place for mother toamuse the children while fatherplays golf on the links course. Or, asin our case, for daddy to mind thekids while mammy gets herselfwrapped at Voya Seaweed Baths,from which she emerges an hourlater, her verdict – and the rest ofher – glowing: “That was fan-tastic!”

MAKE IT HAPPEN■ Sligo walking tours leave from theFáilte Ireland office on Temple Street,

Sligo town at 11am, Mon-Sat.071-9161201. Tour also includes SligoAbbey, built in 1252. Guided tours daily.

■ Eagles Flying is at Portinch, Bally-mote, and opens at 10.30am-12.30pmand 2.30pm-4.30pm, with bird showsat 11am and 3pm. 071-9189310,eaglesflying.com

■ Hullabaloo pottery and paintingstudio is open seven days a weekduring school holidays and until 8pmon Thursday, Friday, and Saturdaynights. 071-9147528, hullabaloo.ie

HIDDENGEM

The product of a hard day’scraft at Hullabaloo

AS JAMES JOYCE is toDublin,William ButlerYeats is to Sligo. Hissensibility and turn of

phrase profoundly influence howwe see the place, from thelandmark “bare Ben Bulben’shead”, to “the light of evening” on

the great windows of LissadellHouse, to the curt “cast a cold eye”pronouncement on the limestonetablet marking the poet’s finalresting place in the churchyard atDrumcliffe. It is a privilege and anenrichment to have the poet’slegacy informing every encounter

with the county, but there is muchmore to Sligo than the imaginativecolouring it takes from the visionsof a dead poet.Living writers here such as

Leland Bardwell, Eoin McNamee,Kevin Barry, Dermot Healy,Declan Burke andMary Branleywouldn’t necessarily privilege Yeatsin their own dialogue betweencreative imagination and place. Andthe Leonard Cohen concerts lastsummer, that brought Westlifeback to riff and play for theirhometown, prompted a rethinkabout how Sligo is seen by thewider world.Inspired too by the hosting of the

World Rally Championship in2009, the once dreamily romanticbranding of Sligo as “the land ofheart’s desire” is making way forthe rebooted, distinctly moreup-and-at-it vision of Sligo as aplace to “set your spirit free”.This encouragement to direct

and savour your own experience of

FreespiritsofSligoBrian Leyden describes a thriving arts culture in which the literaryheritage of William Butler Yeats finds itself in good company

SLIGO HERITAGE and ARTS


Michael Budd at theSligo Folk Park.

Below: Knocknarea

the place is especially right forSligo, when you consider that lessthan 15 minutes from the towncentre, you can be hiking up amountainside towards the warriorqueen Maeve’s tomb magisteriallycresting Knocknarea; ormarvelling at the ruins atCarrowmore Megalithic Cemeterywhich predates the Pyramids; orwalking round Lough Gill’shalf-moon bay under the nativebroadwood leaf canopy atHazelwood; or saying a prayer andlighting a candle at the holy well atTobernalt. Alternatively, you mayhave your nose pressed to a copy ofYeats’s 1923 Nobel Prize winningmedal on display in the Sligomuseum, or contemplate a keywork by the poet’s brother, Jack B,in the municipal Niland collection,now in the safe keeping of Sligo’sflagship arts centre, theModel.The Model, of course, will have

alternative designs on yourattention, boasting a hugelyexpanded gallery circuit, a coffeedock, a suite of artists’ studios onthe top floor and a bookshop wherethe back catalogue of previousshows includes DorothyCross, SeánMcSweeney,John

Shinnors, Camille Souter, PattiSmith, Dermot Seymour andDermot Delargy. Although, ifgallery-going is not your thing, theyhave a dedicated arthouse andworld cinema, and host regularcurrent, contemporary andtraditional music gigs as well asproducing the annual Sligo NewMusic Festival.An alternative marriage of arts

and entrepreneurship is the newHamilton Gallery, located on thefirst floor of No 4 Castle Street, alisted Victorian building in theheart of Sligo. The gallery mountsmonthly solo exhibitions by suchluminaries as Barrie Cooke andJane O’Malley, and promotesSligo-based talents such as CormacO’Leary and Michael Wann. And ifyou can’t afford the work on thewalls there is an extensivecollection of fine art limited editionprints and sculpture by Irish artistsfor sale.If it’s still food for thought you’re

after, the Blue

Raincoat Theatre Company, basedin the Factory Performance Space atQuay Street, is celebrating its 20thbirthday this year by completing atrilogy of stage adaptations of FlannO Brien’s The Third Policeman andAt Swim-Two-Birds with The PoorMouth this autumn, in the lead-in tothe major music festival Sligo Liveon the October bank holidayweekend.On Temple Street, the Hawk’s

Well Theatre brings the best intouring shows to Sligo, famouslysupports Sligo’s amateur dramaand panto traditions, and thissummer hosts the 52nd YeatsInternational Summer School.If you can be lured away from the

town and its surrounds, theColeman Centre in Gurteenpreserves and celebrates the workand life of musician MichaelColeman, whose early recordings,imported from the United States,did so much to reinvigorate Sligo’scolossal traditional musicinheritance, embodied today byDervish and crossover groups suchas No Crows and The Unwanted.An interest in early traditions

and country life will bring you tothe Sligo Folk Park in Riverstown,and its permanent collection ofhand tools and antique machinery –and this is the place where, on itsannual heritage day, I spotted a pairof farmers with their eyes riveted toa sweetly running antique dieselengine, sharing the rapt absorptionof art lovers before a masterpieceon a gallery wall.Because here in Sligo, it’s the

thought that creates the experiencethat sets your spirit free.

■ Brian Leyden recently editedvolume II of Sligo County Libraries’online literary journal ‘The Cathach’,and is the author of ‘The Home Place’

HERITAGE and ARTS SLIGO


Above: Dervish. Below: Queen Maeve’s tomb atop Knocknarea

SLIGO JAZZ PROJECTSligo town, July 19th-24th, sligojazz.ieOne of the most innovative musicfestivals in the country, featuring aweek of workshops, classes andensemble performances. Amongthe performers this year areAndreas Varady, the Dublin CityJazz Orchestra, and Gilad Atzmon’sOrient House Ensemble. For thoselooking to improve their chops, theline-up of tutors includes Grammy-winning drummer John Riley, JeanToussaint on saxophone, MarshallGilkes on trombone and more.

YEATS INTERNATIONALSUMMER SCHOOLJuly 24th-August 5th,yeats-sligo.com/summer_school

This year’s two-week session ispacked with poetic wit and wisdom.There are lectures, seminars, poetryreadings and workshops. Amongthose involved are Peter McDonaldfrom Oxford, Marjorie Howes fromBoston College, Charles Armstrongfrom the University of Bergen, AnnSaddlemyer from the University ofToronto, Mitsuko Ohno from AichiShukutoku University, and FintanO’Toole of The Irish Times.

WARRIORS RUNStrandhill, Aug 27th,warriorsfestival.comOne of the most fiercely contestedraces in the country, attractinghundreds every year to race upKnocknarea hill, and the tenacity ofthe competitors during the event ismatched only by their appetite forthe post-race party.

LUNASAAugust, Model.ieThe Model is holding a celebrationof the arts called Lunasa, with aprogramme of music, film, comedy,visual arts and outreach activities.The Gloaming, a supergroup oftraditional musicians, will beholding court, while the visual artsprogramme features the work ofcutting-edge film-maker HarunFarocki. A season of surf films is setto be screened, including EndlessSummer, Big Wednesday and localsurf movie Waveriders. Meanwhile,Etienne Zack, the Model’scurrent artist in residence, will berunning art workshops for youthsand seniors.

CAIRDE SUMMER FESTIVALSligo town, until July 10th,cairdefestival.comThere’s still time to catch the CairdeSummer Festival – from Chekhov’sThe Bear and concerts from Tupeloand Lisa Hannigan to the FrivolousFare flea market.

SLIGO STAGES RALLYCo Sligo, July 9thThis weekend it will be foot to thefloor when the Sligo Stages Rallyroars into the county.

CulturalquarterSligo’s vibrantcultural andmusicaltradition is celebratedin a packed season ofconcerts, workshopsand summer schools

SLIGO FESTIVALS


SLIGO RACESVarious dates, countysligoraces.comThis weekend you can savour thethrill of the chase at the SligoRaces. Reserve a table in theCleveragh Room, with a three-course meal, grandstand viewingarea, betting and race card for ¤50.

SOUTH SLIGO SUMMER SCHOOLTubbercurry, July 10th-16th,sssschool.orgClasses and workshops on setdancing and sean nós dancing, witha host of recitals and céilís.

SLIGO MYTHS AND LEGENDSSCHOOLJuly 23rd-24th, lughzone.comEvery inch of land in Sligo has itsown myth or legend. You can learnmore about them at this storytellingand theatrical school.

JAMES MORRISON 19THTRADITIONAL MUSIC FESTIVALRiverstown, July 29th-31st,morrison.ieThis is one of the highlights of thetrad calendar and commemoratesSligo fiddler James Morrison.

CARMEL GUNNINGINTERNATIONAL SUMMER SCHOOLSligo town, Aug 1st-5thClasses in tin whistle, flute, fiddle,bodhrán, banjo, mandolin,traditional guitar and traditionalsinging, along with the inevitablyeventful sessions and recitals.

TUBBERCURRY OLD FAIR DAYFESTIVALTubbercurry, Aug 6th-11thEvery year the town is packed tothe rafters for one of the longestestablished old fair days in Ireland.

SLIGO HERITAGE WEEKVarious locations, Aug 20th-28th,heritageweek.ieSligo boasts more heritage thanmost counties and this week marksits natural, built and culturalheritage with a series of events aspart of National Heritage Week.

COLEMAN TRADITIONAL FESTIVALGurteen, Aug 26th-28th,colemanirishmusic.comCelebrating the life of fiddlerMichael Coleman.

GURTEEN AGRICULTURAL ANDHORSE SHOWLisacheen Farm, Gurteen, Aug 28thShow jumping and equestrian

events vie for space with dog shows,farm-machinery displays and, erm,... potato picking.

MULLAGHMORE HARVEST SHOWAND DONKEY DERBYMullaghmore, Aug 28thDoes exactly what it says on thedonkey-shaped tin. Go along, putthe videos on YouTube afterwards,and amuse your friends.

100th BELTRA SHOWBeltra, Sept 3rdExpect serious culinary competitionat the All-Ireland Baking Challenge,which will put the sheep and dogtrials in the shade. Not to mentionthe flower arranging which willattract its own hardy annuals.

SLIGO TRADITIONALSINGING WEEKENDRosses Point, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd,

sligotradsingers.ieSligo Traditional Singers Circle willhost a weekend of sessions, lecturesand field trips in Rosses Point.

SLIGO FESTIVAL OFBAROQUE MUSICThe Model, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd,sligobaroquefestival.comThe programme for this festival isbeing finalised, but expect a strongline-up of fantastic classical music.

SLIGO OKTOBERFESTSligo town, Sept 30th-Oct 2nd,sligotourism.ieGet out the lederhosen, polish upyour best stein and set your liver toresilient for a line-up of music, song,art, dance – and beer.

BALLINTOGHER ANNUAL FEISBallintogher, Oct 21st-30thSet-dancing classes and singing tobeat the band at this festival inmemory of flute player John Egan.

SLIGO LIVESligo town, Oct 26th-31st, sligolive.ieA folk, roots and indie festival that’sa cut above the rest, with more than100 events, 80 per cent of which arefree. Headlining this year are ElvisCostello and KT Tunstall.

SLIGO INTERNATIONALCHORAL FESTIVALSligo town, Nov 10th-13th,sligochoralfest.comSome of the world’s finest choirswill be alighting on Sligo town forcompetitions and concerts inNovember. This one spills out ofthe churches and into the streets.

FESTIVALS SLIGO


Clockwise from far left: TheWarriors Run; the South SligoSummer School; oysters at theYeats Summer School

SURFERS GUARD theirsecret spots more closelythan their lives it seems – askany surfer for a hint or tip

and you’re met with a shake of thehead and a slight smile.Sligo, though, boasts more than

its fair share of spots, with onesurfer I spoke to reckoning therewere about “150 waves betweenBundoran and Belmullet, allworking off different conditions”.Here are a few of the best.

STRANDHILLThis is nearly every surfer’s firstport of call in Sligo. It has one of themost consistent beach breaks in thecountry, and is accessible forbeginners. When the forecast isgood, the waves develop plenty ofteeth to challenge the moreexperienced surfer. Currentsand riptides are fairly strongthough, and on high tide it washesright into the rocks, making ittreacherous. The seafront also hasa selection of schools (werecommend Perfect Day) andrestaurants.

ENNISCRONEAnother one high on the hitlist,Enniscrone is a good learningbeach, with calm, rolling waves inmost conditions. Waves break atthe beach on both left and right,

and there is a right-hand reef breakto boot. The best swell direction isfrom the northwest.

EASKEYDespite being little more than asmall village, Easkey is one ofIreland’s most famous surfinglocations. Easkey Left is a long leftpoint wave that can produce peaks

of up to 10 feet – a favourite withintermediate surfers. Easkey Rightis strictly for experts, and breaksover a reef with a steep takeoff.

STREEDAGHStreedagh Strand is about halfwaybetween Sligo town and Bundoran,and while not as consistent as someof the others, it’s a solid beachbreak popular with beginners andintermediates. The long, sandybeach can get busy in summer andis best surfed in southeasterlywinds. It needs a decent swell tomake it interesting though.

MULLAGHMOREMullaghmore is a land of contrasts.On the one hand, there is a wide,flat beach break to the northeast,that, in the right conditions,beginners can have some fun on.Then you have a reef break that

is one of the most fearsome waveson the west coast and the biggestever surfed in Irish waters. Thewave itself is shallow, but hasimmense power. A world-classwave, for professionals only.Big-wave surfer Al Mennie

describes surfing the biggest waveof his life at Mullaghmore in 2007:“There was no doubt that the wavecoming was a monster. It wascoming out of a black oceanbeneath a lightning-forked angry

CatchaSligowave

Sligo has a range ofsurfing beaches –Laurence Mackin

counts down the toppicks of the pros

SLIGO SURF’S UP


US pro Kelly Slater on location inEaskey for the filmWave Riders

WHICH CAME first, Sligo’sConey Island or the NYCversion? A clue might lie in

its Irish name Inishmulclohy,which after a few pintscould sound like aslurred version ofConey. The nearestthing to truth is a storythat a Sligo captain,Peter O’Connor,named the New Yorkisland in the late 1700s– and few locals wouldargue with that.At its peak, 200

people lived here, butafter the Famine thepopulation wasdecimated and nowthe island is home tojust one family.The trip to Coney is

eventful. Boats from the mainlandregularly call in, or you can bravethe causeway, guided by 14 pillarsbuilt in 1845. It is only accessibleat low tide, and on the day wewere there, a forlorn looking jeephad made it halfway before givingup the ghost.

Once on dry land, you can takethe edge off the day in the Pub,which was first licensed in 1856.The island has several beautiful,

deserted beaches, themain one beingCarty’s Strand. Enroute you can takethe weight off on StPatrick’s WishingChair, placed here bythe peripatetic saint,whose fingermarkscan still be seen inthe rock. He also tookthe time to curse theisland, after being fedtwo cats instead ofthe rabbits he askedfor, hence the reasonthere is no church onthe island.Another

monument of sorts is the Whale’sGrave. In 1977 a dead sperm whalewas washed ashore (there arepictures of it in the Pub), and itwas buried on the headland. Partof its backbone is visible above theground, though now it could easilybe mistaken for a rock.

CONEY ISLAND

sky. It had my name on it. Iremember tilting my head back andclosing my eyes momentarily andthinking of my dad before focusingon the wave. It stood like asix-storey office block. As I got toabout half-way down it, it justlurched on the reef and grewmassively above me. I thought I wasa goner. It tried to suck me up theface with it and I felt like I wasn’tgoing to be able to make the rest ofthe drop . . . I tightened down into alow crouch and took the rock boilsat high speed, and I made it outwithout falling. I couldn’t calmdown, I was ecstatic.”

PROWLERSThe exact location of Prowlers, thelatest, biggest and scariest monsterwave to be discovered off the Irishcoast, is still something of a closelyguarded secret. The strongestrumour is that it’s 2km off theSligo/Donegal coast, and apparentlyall the locals are in on the secret. Sochance your arm – assuming, thatis, you’re a professional-level surferwith decades of experience and nofear. Otherwise, stick to the onlinevideos.

AUGHRIS HEADAughris Head is a well shelteredbay that gets decent surf, evenwhen wet conditions leave mostother beaches flat. For many,though, the attraction is the rewardof a pint in the beautiful Beach Barafterwards – one of the best pubs inthe west (see page 26). The sandybeach makes a nice change fromthe rocks of some of the area’sother coastal spots. It faces north,so northern swells are needed totrigger the waves.

LIGHTHOUSELighthouse to the north is achallenging reef break that needs agood paddle out. There’s a powerful

right hander and a shorter, steeperwave that curves to the left. It isdefinitely one for those looking formore challenging surf.

KILCUMMINThis is one of the first reef breaks

people cut their teeth on. It needs adecent northwesterly swell to getmoving, but surf is fairly consistenton the left-hand break. It is popularso can get crowded and the riptidescan be quite strong.

FOR SANDY thrills of thefour-legged variety, why notexplore the beach on

horseback. Go for a hack alongStreedagh Beach and enjoy theviews of Benbulben in thedistance. Contact IslandView Riding Stables,islandviewridingstables.comTel: 071-9166156

A gallop in the sand


HIDDENGEM

Above: Waveriding at Mullaghmore.Left: Strandhill on a calm evening.

SURF’S UP SLIGO


CO SLIGO IS entertainmentcentral. Its musical legacyplays a key role in its richcultural history.

The county can lay claim tomusicians who are leaders in theirgenres; from the tenor singing ofCount John McCormack, to thetraditional tunes of Dervish, to thepop ballads of super successfulWestlife. And country music is wellrepresented by Sandy Kelly, whoonce duetted with Johnny Cash inMarkree Castle.

TOWN THRILLSThe entertainment starts in Sligo’sbars. There’s a blues jam onMondays in Furey’s Bar, onceowned by Dervish, and traditionalmusic in art bar Shoot The Crowson Tuesdays and in Early’s BridgeStreet Bar on Thursdays. All startat 10pm.Sunday sessions range from

StrikingthekeynoteGiven its rich legacy, it’s not surprising thatAlanna Gallagher finds there’s music andcraic of all kinds to be found in Sligo

SLIGO NIGHTLIFE

zxgnxbvnKelly’s Bar gemhere

There are pubs and then thereare pubs – and this one isdefinitely the latter. Harry’s on

the seafront at Rosses Point issomething of alandmark, and oneof the mostextraordinary barsin the west. Thisestablishment isstuffed full ofseafaringparaphernalia, andevery polisheditem has a story or 10 to go with it.There’s the Russian throttle,

part of a litany of items taken froma ship by a grateful crew who werestuck a few miles offshore. Thelocals brought them food andsupplies, and the crew respondedin kind with bits of the ship. Thereare the fairly harmless-lookingpiranhas down the front of the bar,

and the huge, terrifying-lookingvegetarian piranhas that patrol thetank towards the back, glaring outfrom behind the bullet-proof glass.

There’s theancient naturalwell discoveredwhile the ownerswere building anextension;punters can nowlook down at itthrough the glasstop of the best

table in the house.The pub has been in the Ewing

family for generations and HarryEwing, who died in 2006, also has apier named after him. Warmth,chat, and a slew of stories washeddown with a perfect pint – this isthe kind of pub worth crossing thecountry for.

Laurence Mackin


HARRY’S BAR, Rosses Point

lunch time jazz at the Harp Tavernon Quay Street (071-9142473theharptavernsligo.com) tounplugged worship at the MASS –the Massive Acoustic SundaySession that takes place atMcGarrigle’s Bar on O’ConnellStreet (071-606 9007). It starts at8pm. There’s a trad session inDonaghy’s Bar on Lord EdwardStreet (071-916 2417) from 10pm.If you’d rather stay in one place,

the Embassy Complexis one of thecity’s best-known centraldestinations. Comprising the BelfryBar (belfrypub.com), the EmbassyBar & Grill (embassygrill.eu) andToffs Nite Club, it means you don’thave to spend your evening taxi-ingfrom one destination to another.The Belfry offers cocktails,

American pool and has two outdoorheated areas which will help youimmerse yourself in Sligo’s socialscene, while the Embassy Wine Barand Grill, overlooking theGaravogue river offers great food ina relaxed ambiance.It has four bars over two floors

and caters for all musical tastes.The town has several late bars

worth investigating. Fiddler’sCreek has party nights everySaturday while The Garavogue(garavogue.ie), set on the riverbank, has live music on Thursdaysand Fridays and DJ sets onSaturday nights. And you can eat,drink and dance the night away atShenanigans (shenanigans.ie).On the club front Clarence Bar

and Club and the Velvet Room(velvetroom.ie), which opens onSaturday nights only, and so alwaysdraws a crowd. Or book a table atPure (purenightclub.ie).For a cure the next morning visit

TJKennedy’s (071-9143003), a realrugby pub. Named after the famedLeinster player Terry Kennedy,father of proprietor Joan Quinn, ithas a continental-style front loungeleading into a traditional backlounge, with an extensive collectionof rugby memorabilia.

VILLAGE VIBESBALLINACARROWThe Sligo Traditional Singers’Circle (086 3097596sligotradsingers.ie ) promotes thearts of traditional singing andstorytelling and holds court inDurkin’s pub in Ballinacarrow onthe second Wednesday of themonth. Durkin’s is also home to atraditional music session on Friday

nights.

BALLYSADAREBallysadare’s musical heritagestretches back to the folk festivals ofthe late 1970s and early 1980s,when nascent act Clannad andestablished international names,such as Donovan, headlined. TheThatch Bar (071-9167288) offersmusic at weekends and O’Connor’sBar (071-9167267) is another greatplace for live music.

GRANGEMoran’s pub (071-916 3131) holdsoccasional free céilí nights andactively encourages visitors to getup and dance. The next one takesplace on July 14th and there’sanother on October 13th.

GURTEENAt the exhibition area of thevillage’s Ceoláras Coleman(071-9182599colemanirishmusic.com) traditionalsinging, musical styles andinstructions on two-hand and stepdancing give a real sense of theaural history of the region.Admission is ¤5. There are summerseisiúns on Wednesday andSaturday nights in July and August.Admission is ¤10. Family and grouprates available.

NIGHTLIFE SLIGO

HIDDENGEM

Above: Art bar Shoot the Crows,Sligo town.Left: Hargadon's pub andrestaurant , Sligo town.Below left: TJ Kennedy’s.


SLIGO NIGHTLIFE

RIVERSTOWNJames Morrison Teach Cheoil(morrison.ie) was built tocommemorate fiddle playerMorrison and his contemporaries inthe area. From September, it is ahive of activity with trad music,sean nós dancing and accordionclasses, and free evening fiddle andtin whistle lessons for juniors onFridays. Every three weeks there’sa session in one of the village’sthree pubs; Sean McDermott’s,John McDermott’s or The CornerHouse.

STRANDHILL SOUNDSThe Venue (071-916 8167venuestrandhill.ie) has live musicon Thursday, Friday and Saturdaynights. The set list ranges fromcontemporary covers to trad, withlocal musician Seamus O’Dowd onthe mike on Thursdays and otherlocal musicians taking to the stageon weekends.

AUGHRISThe Beach Bar (071-9176465thebeachbarsligo.com), in Aughris,Templeboy, is a 17th-century,thatch-roofed establishment thathas live music on Saturday nightsand on bank holiday Sundays,

which recently enthralled Game ofThrones actor Peter Dinklage. Themusic varies from the Bush CéilíBand to groups playing

contemporary music sets such asCarousel and The Curly Bobs.

The seaside setting isspectacular. Many visitors like topark on the edge of the DunmoranStrand and walk across it to theBeach Bar. On a good day you cantake your pint outside and enjoy thevista at one of the establishment’smany picnic tables. Also a gastropub, the seafood chowder is one ofits signature dishes. The bar hasaccommodation on site.

■ Formore see sligomusic.ie

The Embassy Bar& Grill, Sligo townBelow: The BeachBar, Aughris


GOLF SLIGO

FEWWHOHAVE walked thelinks in Enniscrone can feelanything but that they are in aspecial golfing place – not just

by virtue of the beauty of thelandscape, but by the natural way ithas been used to craft one ofIreland’s most beautiful golf courses.Blessed with a coastline that

provides the terrain from whichgreat links course are made,Enniscrone typifies the sweep andrugged panoramic beauty of KillalaBay, which attracts so many golferseach year.Founded in 1918 and redesigned

by Eddie Hackett in 1974 and thenDonald Steel as recently as 2001,Enniscrone provides a battery of

interesting holes, some using theuneven run of undulating fairwaysand others the mountainous dunes,giving the impression of narrowstrips of fairway running throughthe sandy hills like valleys.The course is now positioned

17th in the 2010 rankings of the top100 courses in Ireland by GolfDigest Ireland magazine. Apartfrom the championship links knownas the Dunes, there is also thesplendid 9 hole Scurmore course.Not so far away just outside Sligo

town, County Sligo Golf Club atRosses Point is another jewel in thescatter of top-class courses aroundYeats country.Established in 1894, it’s another

of Ireland’s outstanding golf venues– and with some history attached.The land for the course layout

was originally leased from a mannamed Henry Middleton, an uncleof Nobel Prize winning writer,William Butler Yeats and hisbrother, the famous painter, Jack.The story of the course is entirelywrapped up in the culture andhistory of the area, with theimposing Benbulben mountain asentry on one side, and the endlessAtlantic Ocean on the other.The famous course is also host to

the first big amateur competition ofthe season, where no lesser figuresthan 2011 US Open winner RoryMcIlroy and three times Majorwinner Padraig Harrington cuttheir teeth as young up-and-comingplayers.Harrington won his first senior

title in 1994 at Rosses Point, whilethe new superstar of the gameMcIlroy was the youngest everwinner of the West in 2005 at thetender age of 15 – and made it adouble by holding onto the title thefollowing year.Like Enniscrone, this

championship venue adheres to thebest principles of links golf and usesthe natural contours of the land tobest effect.

Sligo’s rollinggreensLooking at Sligo’sgolf courses, you’dbe forgiven forthinking the land wascarved out with thesport in mind, writesJohnnyWatterson Top: Enniscrone Golf Club

Above: County Sligo Golf Club

Known for its sheer beauty,Strandhill is located beside thepicturesque seaside village ofStrandhill approximately 8km fromSligo town. An 18 hole, par 69venue, also designed by thelegendary Hackett, it nestles underKnocknarea Mountain.The course was originally

designed as a nine-hole until 1973,when it was enlarged to 18 holes.The welcoming club again providesholes snaking around some of thebiggest dunes in these islands.Catch the course on a summer’smorning or evening with longshadows cast and you will see it atits best. As is the case with bothCounty Sligo and Enniscrone,straight hitting around the duneholes is a must.Ballymote Golf Club is another

find, but this time inland andhidden between the CurlewMountains and Ballymote town.With its signature Lake Hole 7thset into Ballinacarrow Lake, locals,players and visitors claim itmatches up very well indeed to thecelebrated par 3 17th hole inDruid’s Glen in Co Wicklow, wherethe Irish Open was held some yearsago. It plays over 2,640m ofundulating, lush parkland.Small too can be mighty and

Tubbercurry is a scenic nine-holecourse set into the Ox mountains30km south of Sligo town. Withcharming views of Croagh Patrick,another Hackett design ensures ittests even the best golfers with

most of the holes protected byclever bunkering.There is a more majestic feel to

Castle Dargan, where the estateprovides more than just a golfcourse. The whole setting makesthe package a different experienceto the seaside links. Castle Darganprovides a calm and sometimeseerie presence on the horizon of the6800 yard par 72 course. Yeatseven penned a poem almost acentury ago having been inspired bya visit to the grounds.The “King of the Great Clock

Tower” lines were of another timecompared to the contemporarystyle of Castle Dargan now, wherespectacular views overlook the18-hole golf course, designed by

Darren Clarke. This year it playshost to the Connacht SeniorChampionship.For the eternal student and

perfectionist alike, Sligo GolfAcademy is a practice facility whichincludes a modern 14-bay drivingrange with automatic tees and anall-weather Huxley putting green.With four PGA teachingprofessionals giving tuitionthroughout the week, Sligo golfacademy offers lessons in a fun andfriendly atmosphere.

■ See countysligogolfclub.ie,enniscronegolfclub.com,castledargan.com/Golf,strandhillgolfclub.com,sligogolfacademy.com

SLIGO GOLF

SHOPPING SLIGO


Strandhill Golf Club, and,below, Castle Dargan

Golf Club

RELAXATION SLIGO

SLIGO HAS PLENTY tonourish visitors from theinside out, with a plethora ofhealth-enhancing services on

hand.For years, known as “the sailor’s

cure”, the traditional seaweed bathis an experience that, for theuninitiated, is a lot more than thesum of its parts, and at the sametime exactly what it says on the tin.A bath is filled with natural,

freshly harvested seaweed, and youare immersed in it until the waterbecomes tepid, then shower off andgo back to everyday life.The benefits are immediate and

lasting; seaweed contains almostevery nutrient the body needs toreplenish and regenerate its cells,and the bath will leave you feelingwholly rejuvenated.There are two destinations to

choose from in Sligo: Kilcullen’sSeaweed Baths atEnniscrone(kilcullenseaweed-baths.com) have been going since1912, and Voya Seaweed Baths(voya.ie) is the current incarnationof a business that also started in1912, in Strandhill.For open-air walks that will

refresh your mind and body, Sligooffers great beaches and swathes ofwide open countryside.Why not take in a signed walking

route, such as that at Slish Wood, ashort walk of about 3km off theR287 from Sligo.Another idea would be to walk up

Knocknarea mountain to the cairn,

the rumoured burial place of QueenMaebh of Connacht.The walk to the 452m summit

should take about an hour.Wear decent walking shoes

because the trail can be slippery –but the superb views of the OxMountains and Benbulben on theother side make it well worthwhile.For a little more luxury with your

health experience, CromleachLodge (cromleach.com) has anaward-winning spa, as well as anoutdoor hot tub.The Pier Head Hotel

(pierheadhotel.ie) in Mullaghmore,also has an outdoor hot tub, and agym, sauna and pool for all hotelbookings. There are also seaweedbaths in its leisure centre area.

Castle Dargan Golf Hotel andWellness Resort (castledargan.com)combines the sport with greatrelaxation options at its Icon Spa,which offers a range of treatments.At the Yeats Country Hotel and

Leisure Club in Rosses Point(yeatscountryhotel.com) guests canenjoy golf, the spa facilities and theglorious blue-flag beach.The hotel has an award-winning

leisure club alongside its ErosLuxury Spa, which offers a widerange of luxury therapies.Whether you take it into your

own hands in the great outdoors, orallow others to pamper yourstresses away, a dose of Sligo is anelixir guaranteed to refresh andenergise.

BodymattersThe natural Sligo scenery is pure inspiration for a bracing walk or arelaxing session in a luxury spa, writes Rosemary Mac Cabe


Cromleach Lodge has an award-winning spa and outdoor hot tub

A spa treatment atVoya in Strandhill

SLIGO SHOPPING

SLIGO TOWN OFFERS a greatshopping mix from fashion tocosmetics, gourmet food toantiques. The centre is a blend

of traditional shop fronts andcontemporary, small-scaleshopping centres. And the vibrantindependent boutique cultureshowcases local talent alongsideinternational labels. Best of all,Sligo is bijou in size making it ashopping hotspot best explored onfoot.Some of its most beautiful shop

fronts date back to the 19thCentury.Mullaney Brothers has alisted Connemara marble front.Inside it offers everything fromfashion to school uniforms for 14local schools.Henry Lyons, established in

1835, is another old-schoolhaberdashery. According to legend

Countess Markievicz used to ride inon horseback and insist that shehave her dresses (which were madethere) altered without dismounting.These days, the lingeriedepartment, Ophelia Lingerie,is the big draw, stocking fashionlabels such as Elle MacPhersonIntimates, Tommy Hilfiger andLejaby.For a fast fashion fix head to

Quayside Shopping Centre, asmartly designed mall that is hometo River Island, Pull and Bear,Oasis, Next, Monsoon andAccessorize and even TK Maxx ifyou’re looking for a bargain (or youfind you didn’t pack the rightclothes for the weather).Johnston Court is Sligo’s newest

shopping experience. Have yourhair done for a night out at PeterMark, one of the many big names in

the galleria-style pedestrianisedwalkway.Zulu is a independent fashion

boutique catering for everythingfrom occasion wear to off-dutybasics. It stocks Mary Grant,knitwear and accessories by SarahPacini and weekend wear by SaveThe Queen.Jewellery makerMartina

Hamilton, owner of The Cat andthe Moon, epitomises the town’ssense of cool. As well as stockingone of the most comprehensiveranges of craft in the country shedesigns and makes three jewellerycollections on the premises – givingyou a choice of hand-made, hip andportable souvenirs of your stayGourmands are well catered for.

Source Sligo (sourcesligo.ie) is thego-to place to tickle your taste buds.Kate’s Kitchen (kateskitchen.ie)

BuyerbethereFashion, food, crafts – Sligo has it all, writes Alanna Gallagher


TOBERNALT – “the cliff well” –is at the western end of LoughGill. An age-old pilgrimage

site, The Holy Wellis screened bytrees, wild garlicand hart's-tonguefern. Supplicantshold that its watershave healingpowers forailments of the eyeand headespecially. Fromthe well a briskstream flows,making a constantsoothing music.The restored PenalMass Rock standsbelow a lovely altarbuilt into the baseof the cliff. Secluded and shelteredfrom the elements, candles burn

here all year round, and also atfurther shrines to Saint Anne andher daughter, the Blessed Virgin

Mary, the HolyFamily and theMarian Shrine. Thegravel walks havenumberedlimestone Stationsof the Cross, andthough somewhatcluttered lately bygranite stonesannouncing themysteries of theRosary, along withsponsored stonebenches for thesteady stream ofhushed visitors, theholy well preservesits unique

atmosphere of healing tranquillity.Brian Leyden

CRAFTS SLIGO

sells fine foods and cupboardessentials such as Cooperhill’schunky fruit marmalade, one of thenumerous big house estates thatlitter the county. They also selltoiletries. Cosgrove’s, an oldfashioned country grocer andfood specialist on Market Street,is also worth the detour if only tomarvel at the displays.

Shopping is hungrywork. For that sugarrush pay GourmetParlour(gourmetparlour.com)on Bridge Street a visitand indulge in a slice ofwhatever you fancy. Eat onthe hoof and dive back intothe town’s offerings. Or if youfancy sitting down somewhereorder a freshly-made baguetteor hearty bowl of soup at CaféFleur (cafefleur.ie), a smart littlecoffee shop on O’Connell Street.For a caffeine fix visit O’Hehir’sBakery and Café on WineStreet.

Town markets add personality tothe busy setting, and Sligo TownMarket is held in Market Yard onFridays from 8am to 3pm and aFarmers’ Market takes place at ITSligo on Saturdays from 10am to1pm. The Country Market atBeltra, held in the lovely oldcorrugated- iron community hall, isan established place to meet up.Give yourself plenty of time tocheck out the local produce,home-baked goods and localcrafts. In Ballymote the marketis held in the town square from9am to 4pm. Ballinacarrow’scountry market takes place everySaturday from 10am to noon,while the Village Food Fare inCollooney is a combination of localand artisan producers and takesplace the first Saturday of eachmonth.

If you fancy a spot of antiquinggo to Yeats Country Antiques, inBranley’s Yard in Rathcormack.They specialise in fine Georgian,Victorian and Edwardian periodfurniture and collectables.

No trip to Co Sligo is completewithout paying a visit to VoyaCosmetics’ (voya.ie) humbleheadquarters on the prom inStrandhill. Try some of the productsthat so enamoured RichardBranson that they are now histoiletries of choice on his privateyacht – quite a coup for a small,independent Sligo brand.

TOBERNALT


CraftcountyCrafts are some of the county’s bestbuys. TryMichael Kennedy Ceramics(michaelkennedyceramics.com) atMarket Cross, buy crafts atMichaelQuirke’s on Wine Street and pay theaforementioned The Cat and TheMoon (thecatandthemoon.com) avisit for one of their monthlyshowcase events featuring leadingIrish craft artisans.TheMade In Sligo (madeinsligo.ie)

craft trail offers you a guided tour tomeet makers across all the craftdisciplines in their studios in variousparts of the county. From AnaFaye’s gorgeous leather handbagsto Lynda Gault’s pottery and thegoldsmithing of Gilbert Henry, it’sa wonderful way to betterappreciate the piece you buy.You can explore further at

Benbulben Pottery(davemcloughlinceramics.com), set atthe foot of the sphinx-like landmark inRathcormac. And Drumcliffe TeaHouse and Craft Shop is the perfectplace to indulge several senses atonce. Browse their selection of Yeatsand Irish interest books and exploretheir selection of original quality craftswhile slaking your thirst with a cuppa.

Bag byAna Faye

HIDDENGEM

To cherish memories forever, you have to live them first. Experience world class surfing at Strandhill, or immerse yourself in the spectacular landscapes of Ben Bulben or the Ox Mountains. Horse riding, trekking, mountain biking, kite surfing, golfing or just lazily walking some of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland – in Sligo you’re free to do it all.

discoverireland.ie

/SLIGO

P28422 FI SLIGO Surf IT Supp. 257x175 CB.indd 1 27/06/2011 11:56

sligo - set your spirit free

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