slide 1 c h a p t e r e i g h t the northern renaissance c

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c. 1500 - 1600

THE NORTHERN RENAISSANCE

C H A P T E R E I G H T

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Slide 2

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

2C H A P T E R E I G H TTHE NORTHERN RENAISSANCEc. 1500 - 1600

Map illustrating the spread of Renaissance ideas north from Italy.

Click on the map to advance the spread.

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Slide 3



Click to advance through the time line

1509 1517 1519 1535 1547 1553 1556 1557 1558 1560 1564 1578 1589 1590 1603

1509Henry VIII becomes king of England

1517Martin Luther’s debate with the Roman Catholic Church

1519Charles V elected Holy Roman Emperor, thus adding rights over Germany and

northern Italy, to his rule of Spain, the Low Countries, and Austria1535

Reign of Suleyman the Magnificent, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, begins1519

Death of Leonardo da Vinci in France1535

First European contact with Japan by Portuguese sailors1547

Henry VIII dies and his son Edward VI succeeds to the throne1553

Death Edward VI brings Mary Tudor to the throne

1556Charles V abdicates, dividing his territories between his son Philip (Spain, Low Countries, and the New World) and his brother Ferdinand (Austria and the Holy

Roman Empire)

Philip II Ferdinand I

1557Portuguese settlement in Macao establishes contact with Chinese

1558Elizabeth I succeeds to the throne on death of Mary Tudor

1560-1589France wracked with religious strife

1564Death of Michelangelo

1578Spanish lose control of the Dutch Provinces

William I of Orange, main leader of the Dutch revolt against Spain

1589Henry of Navarre becomes King Henry IV of France

1590Shakespeare begins writing plays

1603Death of Elizabeth I of England

vents contributed to the emerging power of these countries.

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• Phase 1: 1500 - 1515 Similar to late middle ages in components. Shoes now round at the toe.

• Phase 2: 1515 – 1550: Wide, full, puffs, slashes, and panes.

• Phase 3: 1550 – 1600: Narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip. Trunk hose.

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Slide 5



There was an early phase in which a transition was made from Medieval styles to the styles of the Renaissance (c. 1500 – 1515).

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Slide 6



Doublet and hose laced together.

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Jackets were worn with wide skirts called bases.

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Slide 8



Over these men might wear loose robes or gowns.

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Slide 9



The second phase concentrated in the second to the fourth decades of the century in which strong German influence can be

seen (c. 1515 – 1550).

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Shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide.

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Slide 11



Men could choose between bases, and hose divided into sections called upper and nether stocks. The upper eventually appeared as a separate

garment, called breeches or trunk hose.

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Slide 12



Robes and gowns were still worn.

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In the final phase, Spanish influences predominated (c. 1550 – 1600).

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Slide 14



Doublets had narrower shoulders, and were worn with many types of trunk hose.

Venetian, 1590 Spanish, 1577 French, 1581French, 1574 German, 1577 Burgundian, 1577Venetian Breeches

Short Trunks attached to full-

length hose

Short Trunks attached to full-

length hose

Short trunks with canions

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Slide 15



Doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly.

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Capes, full and flaring were worn outdoors.

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Slide 17



• Phase 1: 1500 - 1530 Transition from Middle Ages.

• Phase 2: 1530 - 1575: Spanish influenced change to petticoatand overdress.

• Phase 3: 1575 - 1600: Growth of skirt, supported by hoop called.

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Slide 18



While the chemise continued as the undermost garment, women’s underwear now took on the function of providing shape to the clothes

• Stays• Busk• Farthingale• Bum Roll

See MoreStay buried with Pfaltzgrafin Dorothea

Sabine von Neuberg in 1598 Stay found on the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I. Dated

1602

Replica of Elizabethan Stay

Click on Image to Advance to the next image.

Busk is inserted down the center front of the Stay

Bone, Wood, and Ivory Busks

Farthingale with Stay Wheel Farthingale with StayClick to see construction

detail

X

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The first phase of women’s costume was a transition from the styles of the Medieval Period

Wheel Farthingale with Stay

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Slide 20



Gowns either worn as single garment or under and outer gown had long trains, which might be pinned up in back.

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Slide 21



Variations in sleeve styles included:

• Smooth, narrow with decorative cuffs.• Wide funnel shaped.• Hanging sleeves.

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Although costume of the 16th Century had become more international with styles from one country or another often predominating, regional differences continued to exist.

This is particularly evident in German women’s styles of c. 1530 – 1575.

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Slide 23



Fitted bodices with low, square or rounded necklines. Softly gathered skirts with sleeves similar to Italian Renaissance styles of the late 1400s.

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Slide 24



Hair was held in nets, hats were large and feathered, and large gold chains were important accessories.

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During the second phase (1530 – 1575), outside of Germany, costume for women was marked by Spanish influences.

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Slide 26



Dresses were hourglass shaped, usually had square necks, flared skirts. The skirt was open in front to show the petticoat.

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Slide 27



Sometimes women wore a loosely fitted overdress called a ropa.

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1575 – 1600 The first changes in the last quarter of the century came in the shape of the skirt, which started to grown wider at the top.

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Slide 29



Skirts were held out by either a hoop structure or bum roll.

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Slide 30



When supported by a hoop called a farthingale, skirts grew to extreme widths.

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To balance the silhouette, hair was dressed high and collars stood up at the neck.

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Slide 32



A sheer cape with a standing collar called a conch was worn with dresses.

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Slide 33



Techniques for making lace developed in the 16th Century, and lace was used in profusion as trimming and for wide ruffs, collars, and cuffs.

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Some Popular Accessories for Men and Women

Gloves Fans

Hats and Head Coverings See more on shoes at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Shoes and Boots

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Slide 35



y the end of the 16th Century, Western History takes in notonly Europe but the new world, the Western Hemisphere.

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Slide 36



For Further Study

Northern Renaissance Costume Time Lineshttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1500to1535a.htmhttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1535to1570a.htmhttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1570to1600a.htm

Actual Costumeshttp://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/renaissance.htm lhttp://costume.dm.net/bath/index.html

Sumptuary Lawshttp://costume.dm.net/sumptuary.html

Puritan Comments On Dresshttp://costume.dm.net/stubbes.html

Working Class Dresshttp://costume.dm.net/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html

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For Further Study

Putting On An Elizabethan Dresshttp://costume.dm.net/overview.html

Elizabethan Costume Linkshttp://costume.dm.net/

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Slide 38



Image Credits

Image of Suleyman the Magnificent, copyright 2005, Nagshbandi-Haggami, Suli Order of America.

Woodcut of Michelangelo, courtesy of [www.lib.utexas.edu].

Image of Reproduction Busks, courtesy of the artist, Dave Hodgson for Ninya Mikhaila.

Images of Farthingales, courtesy of [www.farthingales.on.ca, July 13, 2005].

Replica of Effigy corset, courtesy of [www.costume.dm.net].

Image of Edwards Shoes, courtesy of the artist, Morgan Hubbard for Ninya Mikhaila.

Replicas of Elizabethan Stays, courtesy of [www.lynoure.com].

Images of Queen Elizabeth and lace collars, courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images Collection.

Various images used courtesy of [www.clipart.com, 7/26/05]; Dover Publications; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library; illustrations by Claire King; [www.photos.com]; and [www.berkaweb.com].

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