shanghai briefing

A Short Guide for Expatriates

Living and Working in

Shanghai

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– IInntt rroodduucctt iioonn

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Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- IInnddeexx

There is no straightforward formula for foreignbusiness(wo)men and their families to succeed in China.Pretending otherwise risks failing in business and/orprivate relationships. Thus, each old China hand willadvise green-horns differently, according to theirpersonal experience of what works or not. However,such advice doesn’t, but should, come with the healthwarning that “one man’s meat is another man’s poison”.So:

lesson 1: seek a second opinion, then a third froma Chinese person, and finally a fourth fromsomeone who really knows, understands and isrespected by both sides

lesson 2: beware of self-styled “China experts”, or“consultants” - i.e. anecdotally, but sometimestrue, expatriates who ve been in or visited China for30 minutes, or longer than you, respectively!

In that spirit, rather than waste time regurgitating thetime-worn advice repeated in the plethora of books onChina (see Page 37: Bibliography), we prefer to offerpersonal insights, based on our and others successesand failures

Do not underestimate the Chinese … we still have

much to learn from them

Page

01 Brief History

02 Opium Wars

04 China for Business

05 China for Pleasure

07 Accommodation

08 Avoid

09 Banqueting

11 Business Meetings

13 Climate and Clothing

15 Communications

16 Cost of Living

17 Cultural Differences

A private audience withRt Hon Sir Edward HeathBeijing, September 1998

Andrew and Eileen Williamson have spent many yearsabroad, first as language students and then working withCommercial Union and the British Council respectively.In the late 1990s, they were posted to Beijing, whenAndrew was appointed CU’s Director and ChiefRepresentative for China, and where Eileen joined thelocal staff of the British Council. In recognition of hisservices, Andrew was appointed Visiting Professor ofInsurance by the then Shanghai Finance College. Nowsemi-retired, following the merger of CU and GA, they tryto keep up-to-date their links with China

20 Dogs

22 Giving Gifts

23 Health and Hygiene

25 Maids

28 Meeting and Greeting

29 Negotiating

31 Recreation

32 Support Services

33 Transport

35 Work Practices

36 Notes

37 Bibliography

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Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson “Chinese Puzzles” – Page 01

221BC The first Chi’in Emperor begins to build the GreatWall of China in order to keep out northernbarbarians. During his reign, 1200 miles are built.In later centuries, it stretches 1500 miles. It is 25fthigh, with watchtowers every 200 yards

995AD The Chinese invent printing with movable type.Their tradition of innovation is long: in about1000AD they also invented gunpowder; and themagnetic compass, a giant leap forward innavigation

1274 Marco Polo reaches Kublai Khan’s court in China.He described paper money, paddle-boats and ablack stone which burns: coal. He is away from hisVenice home for 25 years. When he returns amillionaire is called the “Man of a Million Lies”

1725 The Manchu emperor Yongzheng commissions thelargest encyclopaedia ever, with 10,000 chapters.The Complete Works of the Four Treasuries is stillconsulted today. Scholars researching it alsodestroyed all books considered harmful to theempire

1839-60 Opium Wars (see Pages 02-03: Opium Wars)

1873 Taiping Revolution – the most bloody civil war inhistory. Its leader, Hing Xiuquan, believes himselfto be the brother of Jesus Christ. Infuriated atfailing the Civil Service entrance exam, he rebelsagainst the Manchu Emperor. Between 20 and 30million people are killed

1908 Death of Dowager Empress Tz’u Hsi, the lasteffective Manchu Ruler. Her fierce repression ofchange leads to the Boxer Rising againstforeigners, and to the downfall of the Manchus. In1912, China becomes a republic, and the 2000-year rule of the dynasties is over

1930 Missionary Gladys Aylward spends her life savingsgoing to China, gets a job campaigning against thefoot-binding of women, and set us the Inn of theSixth Happiness orphanage

1966 Cultural Revolution – student “Red Guards”,waving Mao Tse Tung s Little Red Book, hunt outbourgeois ideologies, humiliate intellectuals, andriot. Thousands die in the violence

1989 Tiananmen Square protests. 100,000 studentsdemonstrate for democratic reforms. Tanks aresent in. One image goes around the world: a lonedemonstrator defies, on his own, a line of tanks

2001 China successfully bids to host the 2008 OlympicGames; and joins the World Trade Organisation

Source: Daily Mail Weekend Supplement, 9th

June 2001

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“Chinese Puzzles” – Page 02

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The wealth of China is used to profit thebarbarians. By what right do they send thepoisonous drug opium to injure the Chinesepeople? So wrote the Chinese official Lin Tse-Hsu to Queen Victoria, protesting at the opiumtrade which was making a fortune for her empire,and enslaving the nation of China – throughaddiction – in the process. It is not known if HerMajesty ever read the letter, but Lin Tse-Hsu wasordered by his Emperor to stamp out the opiumtrade. So he seized opium from British ships, anddisposed of it in trenches of salt and lime along thesea coast. He was rewarded with an exquisitelyprepared dinner of roebuck venison, a messagesignifying “Promotion Assured”, and a hand-painted silk scroll from the Emperor. But it did himlittle good. In reprisal for the destroyed opium, thedespised “Foreign Devils” waged the first OpiumWar (1839-1842), defeated the Chinese, andgrabbed a lease on Hong Kong as a reward. “Youhave caused this war by your excessive zeal”,wrote a furious Emperor to Lin Tse-Hsu. “Now athousand unending problems are sprouting…” Linended his life in exile

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Still the Chinese resisted the opium trade. Thesecond Opium War began in 1856; it led to theburning of the Summer Palace in 1860. First,British and French troops advanced to the capital;in charge of the British contingent was Lord Elgin the son of the Elgin who took the marbles from theParthenon in Greece. On the march, the bodies of18 European envoys who had been sent ahead toPeking to negotiate were returned to the advancingtroops. They had clearly been tortured before theirdeaths. Then a British soldier, Private Moyes ofthe Buffs, was captured and refused to kow tow (bow) before the Chinese; for that, he wasbeheaded. These were the reasons that Elgin wasto give for the burning of the Summer Palace. Itwas not an act of vengeance, but of justice and theleast objectionable of the courses open to me , hesaid. History, and even his own conscience, itseems, would not judge it that way

TThhee AAddvvaannccee oonn PPeekkiinngg

Mutual ignorance between the two sides wasalmost total. In the first place, the Chinese thoughtthey were adequately armed with their matchlockmuskets which fired not by pulling a trigger butby applying a lighted match and swords andpikes. They were astonished and traumatised bywestern weapons, as when a single rocket from aBritish warship burned their admiral s junk andkilled all on board. The Chinese leaders also gavetheir men not-very-sound advice about fighting theBritish. You have to deal with a people who wearbreeches so tight that once the soldiers fall theycannot get up by themselves. Paint your faces asfantastically as possible, and make the mosthideous grimaces to frighten them and make themtumble down. Yet the misconceptions on theBritish side were almost as great. The Chinesegeneral was San Ko-lin-sin which led Britishsoldiers to believe their enemy was led by arenegade Irishman named Sam Collinson

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The British called it the Summer Palace; theChinese called it the Yuan Ming Yuan, the Gardenof Perfect Brightness. It was the seat of Imperialgovernment, and a pleasure palace. FiveEmperors of the Manchu dynasty had successivelyembellished it over more than 150 years. It was amassive complex, 3000 structures all together,museum, storehouse, palace, all in one. The mainImperial residence was built on nine artificialislands to signify the Nine Realms of the Empire;within lay the Courtyard of Universal Happiness;adjoining was The Stone for Repose by theStream. One pavilion was called Peace andHarmony in Ten Thousand Directions. It wasshaped like a swastika, the Chinese symbol for10000. There were bridges, straight, crooked, zig-zag, humped; there were tea-houses and summer-houses. There were also extraordinary elementsof fantasy in its 850 acres. Eunuchs toiled aspretend farmers, pretend shopkeepers and pretendthieves in a miniature pretend village built tocomplete the view

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Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson Chinese Puzzles Page 03

TThhee LLoooott iinngg

The Emperor fled the advancing barbarians theBritish. The Summer Palace itself was protectedonly by a small force of eunuch guards. Yet oneEnglish soldier was astonished to find the Frenchgeneral, Montauban, already there. He was sittingon the floor of the Emperor s throne-room,surrounded by a litter of curios, sorting them intodifferent piles as present for Queen Victoria andNapoleon III. Sent to Europe were jadeornaments, statues and carvings; a water clockwith brass heads of oxen and monkeys; vasescommissioned by the Emperors. English soldiersjoined the looting; so did the Chinese peasantryoutside “a scrum of all the races of the worldhurrying, pushing, cursing, returning laden withtheir loot …” wrote an onlooker. Clocks, scrollpaintings, the poems written by the Emperor onsilken screens, all went; men hacked the faces offjewelled clocks, believing the quartz numbers to bemade of diamond. A small Pekinese dog wasfound and pocketed, sent to London and presentedto Queen Victoria. She called it Lootie, and itsurvived for many years

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It was the French who began the looting. It wasthe British who ordered the palace to be burned. Itwas a clear, still autumn day; soon a black pall ofsmoke rose and hung in the cloudless sky. “Therewere soldiers with their heads in red lacquer-boxesfrom the Empress’ chamber,” wrote a witness;“others were wreathed in masses of brocade andsilks; some stuffed rubies, sapphire and crystal intotheir pockets; and hung their necks with pearlnecklaces. Other hugged clocks and clock-cases.Every now and again the cry of ‘Fire’ rang out; theflames were licking the sumptuous walls paddedwith silks and damasks and furs. It was like ascene from an opium dream”

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The burning destroyed for ever the prestige of theManchu Emperors. Bloody civil war broke out.Then at the turn of the century came the Society ofthe Righteous and Harmonious Fists known asthe Boxers. In a last fling of the old regime, theManchu Dowager Empress tried to manipulate theBoxers to massacre foreigners in China. Whenthat, too, failed, the Manchus were finished andChina descended into an anarchy of squabblingwarlords. The Summer Palace, meanwhile,became a ruin picked over by peasants forwhatever they could find. A poem described thefate of its treasures, and the ruin of China:

A rare book from the Song dynastyLies in an old woman s basket;On the wall of a herdsboy s hutHangs a valuable painting.Ask not the fate of scripturesWritten on precious leaves;For have not even the pagesOf the Encyclopaedia of the Four TreasuriesBeen scattered to the Four Winds?

Source: Daily Mail Weekend Supplement, 9th

June 2001

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Chinese Puzzles Page 04 Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

1. Banqueting: if you haven t a strong stomach,ask for another posting! Food in the PRC,especially when still alive, barely resembles thatserved in Western Chinese restaurants. Whenin doubt, don t ask: it may be better not to knowwhat you re eating. And if your host serves youdirectly, even from his plate … grin and swallow!- to refuse is an insult

2. Face: well documented in the standardtextbooks, face is so important to the Chinesethat your local staff may care more about theirown face than that of foreigners, and try to saveface at your expense. And remember: no is ano-no

3. Favours: don t ask your host for favours he can tdeliver (see above: Face) which explains whymeetings can only ever be arranged at theeleventh hour, when he knows that his diary isfree (besides being his way of showing who sboss). Conversely: don t make rash promisesyou can t keep or have no intention of keeping: alight-hearted invitation to look you up next timehe s in London could cost you an airfare & hotelbill for an unexpected mini-delegation

4. Gifts: when in doubt, consult your Chineseadvisors, for whom exchanging the right giftsmay be the most important task in planning adelegation or meeting

5. Guanxi: a cross between the old boy network and Newton s Cradle, and despite being welldocumented elsewhere, guanxi defiesdefinition. To build it is difficult; to destroy it iseasy. For example: if you continue to meet afriend of a friend, keep the latter informed andappear grateful, otherwise he could turn theformer against you

6. Interpreters: even if you speak Chinese, takeyour own interpreter to meetings, rather than relyon your host s: otherwise, he may consideryou re not senior enough to warrant one and,therefore, not his equal. Don t assume your hostneeds an interpreter and make sotto vocecomments to your colleagues: many seniorChinese have studied abroad. Avoidinterpreters who not only misinterpret but alsohave their own say: by including anotherChinese speaker in your delegation who canintervene

7. Interpreters and Drivers: besides being statussymbols, interpreters and drivers may enjoyclose, even intimate, relationships with theirprincipals and wield influence in their own right.Especially if younger and of the opposite sex,ensure your relationship with them is abovereproach: some male drivers consider foreignfemales fair game

8. Laobanism: the boss ( laoban ) is always right.That s why he s the boss: otherwise he wouldn tbe, even if only by virtue of being older. Thus:your local staff may stand by and watch youmake all the mistakes in the book and lose face,whilst ensuring they do not lose their own

9. Meetings: don t remind your Chinese host whatyou ve already done for him, or tell him whatyou re going to do for him or want him to do foryou. Besides revealing your hand, thisdemonstrates a total disregard for his need andface (see above: Face). Even worse: don t tellhim what he needs and that you ve got thesolution. Rather: find out what he needs andwhat you could do to help him; and then sellyour product or service as the solution. Makeyour solution his idea

10. Privacy: some Chinese especially from large

or poorly educated families have little conceptof personal space, which is alien to their homeexperience. Thus: beware of maids who try toclean the bathroom while you re using it or joinyour coffee mornings; and girl-friends who offerto accompany Western ladies to the toilet!

11. Sex: rather than being jealous, pity the gullibilityof the many elderly Western men in internationalhotel lobbies sporting trophy Chinese girls ontheir arms: all these want is a passport to theWest. By the same token: beware of the maidswho approach the husband while the wife isaway. If married, take your spouse with you toChina: otherwise, we ve seen too manymarriages fail

12. When all else fails: be patient! To quote Miltonout of context: He also serves, who only sitsand waits

Source: Minim Consulting, based on personal experience

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Chinese Puzzles Page 05

PPooppuullaatt iioonn

China is the world s most populated country with1.266 billion people living on 9.6 million squarekilometres of land. Only just bigger than the USA,China has almost five times as many inhabitants.The people are of many different nationalities (over56), some living in remote areas such as Mongoliaand Tibet. It helps, therefore, to think of China asa collection of countries, like Europe

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Feeding so many people is a problem. Onesolution is to restrict married couples to havingonly one child, with severe penalties for additionalor illegitimate children. As a result, there are a lotof spoilt only children in China, nicknamed littleemperors . For example: a Chinese newspaperreported recently that young Chinese soldierscould not look after themselves, such as maketheir beds; and the Daily Mail, that they cannot tieshoe-laces

CCll iimmaattee

China lies on a similar latitude to the USA and itsclimate varies just as much. The north is a dryplain, with very cold winters; whilst the south islush green. In the whole country, summers arehot and humid; and spring is unpredictable. Thebest time of year, therefore, is the autumn

HHiissttoorryy

China is a very old country, with a 5000 year-oldcivilisation that boasts the invention of paper,printing, gunpowder & the compass. In Chinese, China means Middle Kingdom , signifying that itis the centre of the world. Thus, the first of the twoChinese characters for China is a square with avertical line through it, like a globe on its axis

In the 19th

century, China was a popular source ofdrugs for European countries, with which shebecame embattled in the so-called opium wars .As a result, Hong Kong was ceded to Great Britainin 1842, and not handed back to China until 1997

The emperor was deposed in 1911; and then, afterperiods of invasion by Japan and internal unrest,the Communists - winners of the civil war -founded the modern People s Republic of China on1

stOctober 1949; whilst the losers retreated to the

island of Taiwan and set up a rival regime

RReelliiggiioonn

Confucius (born in 551 BC) is the greatestinfluence on Chinese ethics, emphasising familyloyalty. Buddhism is widespread, and hasdiverged from its 1

stcentury AD Indian roots. It is

also distinct In Tibet from the rest of China.Taoism, stressing mysticism and promisingimmortality, was repressed during the 1960 sCultural Revolution

Roman Catholicism, although state-controlled,flourishes but can cost its followers their livelihood.Foreigners may attend local churches, but Chineseare banned from foreign Christian meetings onpain of these being outlawed. Evangelists areprohibited and subject to extradition. The Statedemands allegiance to itself before God or thePope

TToouurriissmm

China is rapidly becoming a centre for touristskeen on seeing her many historic sights, especiallythe Great Wall, 6000 kilometres long, which wasbuilt over 1000 years ago in an unsuccessfulattempt to keep out northern invaders. The Wall isclaimed to be the only man-made structure visiblefrom space. Another favourite tourist attraction arethe Terracotta Warriors, a life-size army of clayfigures built to guard the tomb of the first Qinemperor

Tiananmen Square, Beijing

The Great Wall of China

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Chinese Puzzles Page 06 Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

TTrraavveell

Travelling to and within China is not difficult, aslong as you enjoy excitement. Aeroplanes may beless modern and comfortable than in Europe, butat least their pilots are first-class. Trains are thebest way to see the countryside, especially forthose with time on their hands to travel betweenBeijing and Moscow or Hong Kong. Cruises alongthe Yangtze River are a popular means ofexploring inland China. In the cities, besidesbuses, taxis are abundant and cheap but drivenerratically; with plenty of pedicabs and rickshawsfor tourists. The number of private cars is steadilygrowing; and, in cities such as Shanghai andGuangzhou (Canton), they now compete withmotorcycles for road-space

King of the road is the bicycle, the most popularmake being the “flying pigeon”. Wherever you goin China, there are hundreds upon thousands ofcyclists, supposedly in special cycle lanes as bigas roads but usually in the roads themselves, oftengoing in the wrong direction and never with lights.Indeed, cycle lights are illegal: image, if all bicycleshad lights they would blind the cars! A treasuredpossession, costing a month’s wage, a bicycle is ameans of family transport: the crossbar for thechild, and the rear parcel-carrier for the wife, evenwhen transporting goods to market. One theorywhy Chinese dresses have slits down the side is toallow ladies to pedal their bicycles!

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Young and middle-aged Chinese have adoptedWestern dress; whilst many of the older generationstill wear Mao style suits, even the women. Brightcolours are favoured for small girls – perhaps tomake them stand out more, since boys outnumbergirls about 5 to 4. Bright yellow, once the imperialcolour, is popular. Older Chinese are not adverseto mixing colours which clash by Westernstandards

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In the main cities, large Western-style departmentstores with Western goods jostle with smallChinese shops selling traditional produce andproducts. 5-star international hotels with gourmetrestaurants compete with traditional lodgings andlocal eating-places. O’Malley’s Irish Pub, Mac-Donald’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Hard RockCafé, Pizza Hut etc. abound and attract moreChinese than Westerners. Whilst visitingbusiness-persons are treated to banquets ofsnake, sea slugs, fish-heads, jelly fish and the like,their hosts have probably had a Big Mac meal forlunch costing about £2/US$3!

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In many cities, foreigners may still be required tolive in specially designated housing-compounds orapartment-blocks. This also applies to mixedmarriages: if the wife is Chinese, her Westernhusband may not be allowed to live in localhousing but have to move with her to a foreigncompound. There is, however, some consolation:she may have more than one child. In cities, mostChinese live in tower-blocks, provided for them bytheir employers; their children attend schoolsprovided by their parents employer; and all receivemedical attention from similarly provided hospitals.However, this cradle to grave provision by thestate, nick-named the “iron rice bowl”, is beingphased out to be replaced by greater self-sufficiency. At the same time, state-ownedcompanies are being reformed – another word for“privatised”. China may have a Communistpolitical regime, but her economy is slowlybecoming capitalist

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The way to succeed in China is by slowlydeveloping close and lasting personalrelationships: “guanxi” – rather like the English “oldboy network”. However, failure befalls anyoneusing the word “no”

A Plumber s Shop, Guangzhou (Canton)

The Middle Kingdom

The China Syndrome - Accommodation

Page A1

Introduction

This article deals solely with accommodation forexpatriate business(wo)men - since for diplomatsand teachers (the other main categories of foreignworkers) accommodation is normally provided inspecial compounds or by their Chinese employer,respectively

Availability

In some cities (e.g. Beijing and Shanghai),expatriates can now live quite legally in Chinesehousing. Nevertheless, foreign tenants whoselandlord refuses to register them - which is notuncommon, either through ignorance or distrust ofthe law – may be summarily evicted by themunicipal authority if discovered during one of itsperiodic inspections

In other cities, however, government policy is stillto segregate foreigners from the local population,and make them live in designated properties (e.g.foreign housing compounds) and “pay through thenose”. Thus, a dream cottage in the country orperiod house in the city may remain just that – adream

Choice

Expatriates may choose from: hotels, aparthotels(i.e. serviced apartments in an hotel), apartments(serviced or not) and houses (linked and detached)with small gardens. Western designs abound,including European and Spanish villas, Californianhouses and neo-Georgian mansions; all built towestern standards using imported materials (e.g.hard-wood floors, Italian tiles and German air-conditioning) – although, in some cases, whatconstitutes “western” is imaginary rather than real!

Rent or Purchase?

Although foreigners can purchase property,restrictions may apply as to what property (e.g.detached properties in Shanghai) and/or whichforeigners (e.g. overseas Chinese or Hong Kongresidents). A further restriction, as a result of thestate ownership of all land, is that property isleasehold only and reverts the state after 75 years.Purchasing automatically confers a permanentresidence visa – in theory but not necessarily inpractice, given China’s fluid legal system

Given the superficial build quality of unscrupulousdevelopers, and the poor maintenance of unskilledor unsupervised tradesmen, it is probably better torent than purchase

New or Old?

Older property may not only have sub-standardelectricity, plumbing, heating and gas, but alsoneed constant repair. Hence, it is probably betterto choose new property, even though standards ofconstruction and finishing may be only superficiallyacceptable. Indeed, since most engineering effortappears to be channelled into building rather thanmaintenance, the secret is not to stay around longenough to watch property decay

Author’s house at Author’s house at“Dragon Villas”, Beijing “Greenland Gardens”, Beijing

Furnished or Unfurnished?

Except for hotels and serviced apartments,property may be rented furnished, hard-furnishedor unfurnished.

Hard-furnished accommodation should include allmain white goods (e.g. cooker, fridge, dishwasher,washing machine, tumble dryer), major items offurniture (e.g. lounge, dining and bedroom suites),curtains, light fittings and television (linked to thecompound’s receiver, supplying internationalforeign-language programmes). Furniture may beimported, and of colonial or Mediterranean style

Furnished accommodation should also includemicrowave, vacuum cleaner, iron, cooking utensils,crockery, glassware, cutlery; and possibly tablelinen, bedding, lamps and some occasionalfurniture; but probably not carpets, towelling or bedlinen

Most purpose-built accommodation for foreignershas central heating, air-conditioning and two phonelines: one for voice, and the other for fax/data

Furniture

Unfurnished accommodation can be fully kittedout locally, and not just at the main DepartmentStores. Thus, there is really no need to takeanything from the home country, apart frompersonal possessions. For the patient bargain-hunter and seasoned haggler, good-quality antiqueChinese furniture - genuine and reproduction - isreadily available at acceptable prices, and makes

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excellent “souvenirs” back home at the end of theposting (subject to export restrictions – see below)

The alternatives range from:

¾�locally-made plush, ornate, even gaudy newfurniture of varying quality and price, in anattempt to emulate Western taste; through …

¾�imported or locally-made tasteful, if expensive,copies of colonial furniture, suitably - andthankfully sometimes optionally - “distressed”or “aged” (e.g. in the “public” rooms); to …

¾�locally-made simple yet attractive, acceptableand some even hard-wearing modern Chinesefurniture (e.g. in the “non-public” rooms)

An alternative source of reasonably-priced good-quality household goods and furniture aredeparting expatriates, who advertise in the variousforeign-language magazines and/or on the noticeboards in foreign housing compounds and/orsupermarkets in Western-style hotels

In other words: “you pays your money and youtakes your pick”

For example: to furnish his unfurnished house witha mixture of all the above, including antiques, theauthor was given a budget of US$30,000 (in 1998)

Inside the author s house at Dragon Villas , Beijing

City Centre or Suburbs?

In choosing whether to live in the city centre or thesuburbs, the arguments for and against each mustbe weighed up:

Location City Centre Suburbs

Convenience(i.e. proximity towork & school)

Quality of life(e.g. fresh air and

green spaces)For

Amenities Cheaper

NoiseTravel time and

traffic congestion

Pollution IsolationAgainst

Expensive Lack of amenities

Accommodation

Purpose-built houses for foreigners often include:master bedroom with en-suite bathroom (with twohandbasins, shower and bath), family bedroomsand bathroom, lounge, dining room, family room,study (converted bedroom), kitchen, utility room,maid’s quarters, garage, balcony and storage area(attic or basement)

To protect the wooden floors (if your house hasthem): insist that everyone enters via the hall, andprovide an assortment of “flip-flop” type slippers indifferent sizes for them to change into

Author s house at Greenland Gardens , Beijing - Floor 0



Dining Room

Lounge

Kitchen Garage

Hall

Maid

BedRoom

Balcony

FamilyGalleried RoomLanding

Study

MainBedroom Bedroom

Dressing LandingRoom

Balcony

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Status

The status (i.e. type, location, size, furnishing etc.)of your accommodation may not only reflect yourown worth to your employer but also - and moreimportantly - be interpreted by others (Chinese andforeigners alike) as an indicator of your employer’sworth as a business

In other words: just as you are an “ambassador”for your employer, so is your accommodation its“residence”

It is important, therefore, that your accommodationshould correctly reflect your employer’s worth, andin relation to accommodation provided by othercomparable employers (e.g. not significantly muchlarger and/or more ornate than theirs)

For example: the author had to submit to his HeadOffice details of accommodation provided by otherleading Western insurance companies

Security

Foreign compounds are normally very safe places,being surrounded by a perimeter fence or wall withsecurity guards at the entrance gate and patrollingthe grounds. Additionally, individual propertiesmay be fitted with intercom entry-phones, burglaralarms, security locks and strong entry-doors; andoccupants, drivers and maids required to carry IDcards. Nevertheless, burglaries and attacks dooccur occasionally; for which reason it is advisablekeep valuables in a locked cupboard (if not install asafe) and carry a personal alarm or mobile phone,respectively. Also, remember to reclaim keys andID cards when dispensing with the services ofmaids and drivers; and that the landlord and estatemanagement probably have spare keys fortradesmen to carry out maintenance and repairs,not always with the occupants’ knowledge

Since most landlords allow pets (subject to locallaws) and many Chinese are unaccustomed to andso afraid of them, dogs are an excellent deterrent,for whom gardens may be fairly easily secured

Other “unwelcome visitors” include winged insects,which are best deterred by fitting fly-screens

Facilities

Foreign compounds and apartment-blocks oftenclaim to include: shops (e.g. western supermarket,hairdresser, clothing), restaurant (Chinese andwestern), bar, clubhouse or recreational facilities(e.g. tennis, swimming, snooker, ten-pin bowling),child-minding facilities. Before moving in, ensurethat such claims are true: there is less incentive for

the developer to comply once the residents areinstalled

A word of warning about shuttle-buses: some oftheir drivers are the worst in the world

The estate management normally has an army oftradesmen and gardeners of indifferent ability atits disposal: thus, do not be surprised if your lawnis cut by a small platoon using hand-shears!

Rentals

Rentals tend to be for a minimum of 12 months,renewable annually. Shorter periods may beavailable at a premium; whilst longer terms mayprovide for earlier termination. A security depositis required, normally equal to 3 months rent (butmay be less for unfurnished accommodation).Rent is not normally negotiable, though extras maybe (e.g. club membership); and is payable inadvance, monthly or quarterly, usually in US$.Unfurnished accommodation may be cheaper thanfurnished, but not necessarily; and suburban rentsthan in the city

Despite the greater choice and quality ofaccommodation, expatriates may still be expectedto pay exorbitant rents for the following reasons:

¾�They constitute a captive-market of wealthyclients (see next point) chasing a finite supplyof good quality Western-style accommodation– although supply is now catching up withdemand

¾�Expatriate executives are perceived as beingsufficiently affluent to afford high rents –particularly those whose accommodation costsare known or assumed to be borne by theiremployer

¾�Real estate in Beijing and Shanghai isamongst the most expensive in the world -although prices are gradually falling, as supplycatches up with demand and in the wake of theAsian crisis

According to Colliers Jardine, average rentals permetre

2/month during the 2

ndquarter of 2002 were:

AverageRent perm

2/Month

LuxuryResidential

Market

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Beijing US$ 23 US$23 US$ 30Shanghai US$ 17

Utilities

Utilities (i.e. electricity, gas, water, telephone) andservice charges (e.g. management, cleaning,gardening, waste disposal, use of communal

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facilities, club membership etc.) are usuallyadditional to, and not included in, the rental; andmay be payable in RMB or US$

Ensure that all utilities are connected and workingbefore, and as condition of, moving in since thereis less incentive for the landlord to comply once thetenant is installed. In particular, check that themains gas and water pressures are sufficient tomeet peak demand (e.g. Sunday lunch andsummer, respectively). Be aware that electricplugs and sockets come in various shapes andsizes (but normally 5-amp 2-pin flat); and stock upon locally-available adaptors. Use only the mostexpensive plugs, sockets, adapters and wiring asalso being the safest. The supply is 220 volts, 50cycles AC. As to drinking water: tap water is notdrinkable; but most estate managers can organiseregular deliveries of carboys which, for ease ofuse, should be connected to a freestandinghot/cold dispenser

From figures published by FPD Savills, utility costsin Beijing during the 1

stquarter of 2002 averaged:

Electricity RMB 0.75 per kwh

Gas RMB 2.30 per m3

Cold Water RMB 2.50 per ton

Hot Water RMB 7.35 per ton

Heating RMB 6.70 per m2

Restrictions on Exporting Antique Furniture

In order to ship home any antiques that youpurchase in China, you will need to arrange forthem to be inspected by the Antiquities Bureau,as follows:

¾�(Ask a Chinese-speaking person to) contactthe Bureau about four to six weeks before yourremoval date. In Beijing, their telephonenumber is +86 10 6401 4608

¾�Before the inspection, ensure you have:

1. a letter from your employer, in Chinese,confirming the dates of your arrival in anddeparture from China

2. your passport or residence card

3. the corresponding receipts. (While notnecessary, a low value may persuade theinspector that an item is too cheap to be aprohibited item)

4. RMB cash for the inspection andcertification fees

¾�Arrange (for your driver) to bring the inspectorto your home, and hand over the letter fromyour employer; and afterwards return him/herto the Bureau

¾�The inspector will allow you to export onlythose items that (s)he deems than 150 yearsold - marking such items with a read wax sealand noting them on a Bureau of AntiquitiesExport Permit

¾�Unless you can persuade the inspectorotherwise, (s)he will NOT allow you to exportitems deemed older than 150 years, alsonoting them on the same Export Permit

¾�A fee is payable for the inspection (the authorpaid RMB 150) plus a variable amountbetween RMB 5 and RMB 40 (approximately)per read wax seal

¾�You should retain the Export Permit forcustoms clearance purposes

Author s Export Permit

Moving Notices and Name Cards

In China, a change of address card is usuallycalled a moving notice ; and, when appropriatelydesigned, can also serve as a personal name card

For example: the author’s (see below) was:

¾�made of card

¾�the size of a compliments slip, so that it fittedeasily into a standard business envelope

¾�divided by a vertical perforation into twounequal portions (say 75% and 25%) – thelarger serving as the notice per se; the smalleras a (detachable) name card

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¾�printed on both sides: one in English, the otherin Chinese

¾�illustrated on the back of the name card portionwith a sketch map, in English and Chinese, ofwhere he lived

Author s change of address and personal name card- front (top) and back (above)

The purpose of such an arrangement is to:

¾�notify Chinese and non-Chinese speakers ofyour new address

¾�provide both with directions for taxi-drivers,who may not be familiar with areas primarilyinhabited by foreigners

¾�allow non-Chinese correspondents to stick aphotocopy of the Chinese version on their mailto you, which the local postal workers can read

Should you move without knowing your newpermanent address (e.g. when you arrive in China,or move from one city to another, or return home),distribute cards with at least your mobile phonenumber and e-mail address - for example:

Help!

To make sense of all the options and reach theoptimum decision, it is advisable to retain theservices of an estate agent (normally for a fee ofone month s rent); and talk to other expatriates,especially about the service level of the estatemanagement

Some estate agents (and removal companies) alsooffer relocation services, such as countrybriefing, cultural orientation and a local inductionprogramme

Removal Companies

Beijing Crown WorldwideRoom 201West TowerGolden Bridge BuildingA1 Jianguomenwai DajieBeijing 100020Tel: +86 10 6585 0640Fax: +86 10 6585 0648E-Mail: [email protected]: www.crownworldwide.com

Shanghai Crown WorldwideRoom 6303-6305Rui Jin Business CentreNo. 118 Rui Jin Er RoadShanghai 200020Tel: +86 21 6472 0254Fax: +86 21 6472 0255E-Mail: [email protected]: www.crownworldwide.com

Estate Agents

Beijing Colliers Jardine1606 Capital Mansion6 Xin Yuan Nan RoadChaoyang DistrictBeijing 100004Tel: +86 10 8486 3099Fax: +86 10 8486 3789E-Mail: [email protected]: www.colliersjardine.com.cn

FPD Savills415 East Wing OfficeChina World Trade Centre1 Jianguomenwai DajieBeijing 100004Tel: +86 10 6505 2348Fax: +86 10 6505 2356E-mail: [email protected]: www.fpdsavills-china.com

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Jones Lang LaSalleUnit 12. 8/F, Tower BFull Link PlazaNo. 18 Chaoyangmenwai AvenueBeijing 100020Tel: +86 10 6588 1300Fax: +86 10 6588 1330E-Mail: david.hand

@ap.joneslanglasalle.comWeb: www.joneslanglasalle.com.cn

Shanghai Colliers Jardine1881 City Centre Tower B100 Zun Yi RoadShanghai 200051Tel: +86 21 6237 0088Fax: +86 21 6237 2122E-Mail: [email protected]: www.colliersjardine.com.cn

FPD SavillsUnit 2301-230823/F Shanghai Central Plaza381 Huai Hai Middle RoadLuwan DistrictShanghai 200020Tel: +86 21 6391 6688Fax: +86 21 6391 6699E-mail: [email protected]: www.fpdsavills-china.com

Jones Lang LaSalle48/f Shanghai Plaza 661266 Nanjing Rd (West)Jing An DistrictShanghai 200040 ChinaTel: +86 21 6393 3333Fax: +86 21 6393 3080E-Mail: calvin.yang

@ap.joneslanglasalle.comWeb: www.joneslanglasalle.com.cn

Examples of Expatriate Compounds in Beijing

Photos: www.beijingrosegarden.com.cn

Photos: Beijing This Month, May 1998

Bibliography

General China, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 7

thedition, 2000, pp. 132, 134

China Business Handbook 2002, ChinaEconomic Review, Alain CharlesPublishing Ltd, 5

thedition, London, 2002,

pp. 39, 42, 370-371

Culture Shock! China, Kevin Sinclair withIris Wong Po-yee, Kuperard, London, 3

rd

edition, 1999, pp. 210-211

Greater China Property Index, Jones LangLaSalle, China, July 2002, pp. 8, 12

Greater China Residential MarketOverview, Colliers Jardine, China, July2002, pp. 3-5

Guide to Household Moving, CrownWorldwide, Beijing, 1998, pp. 16-17

Living and Working in China, EmploymentConditions Abroad Limited, UK, 1996, pp.18-19, 25-28

Living and Working in China, ChristinaHall, How To Books, Plymouth (UK),1996, pp. 58-63, 92

Beijing Beijing, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 3

rdedition, 1998, pp. 57, 121

Beijing Scene Guidebook, Beijing ScenePublishing, USA, 1997, pp. 203-217, 223-233

Welcome to Beijing, Jones Lang Wootton,Beijing, 1997. p. 26

Shanghai Shanghai, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 1

stedition, 2001, pp. 70, 136

Information correct as at August 2002

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Author’s Shipping List

Apart from clothes and other personal items suchas anyone would take on holiday, the author sfamily flew the following items to China on severalflights, and was only once charged for excessbaggage:

________________________________________

Cafetiere Cake tins

Cheese board Cheese knife

Ice-cream scoop Iron (steam)

Meat charger Meat Roasting tin

Milk jug ) stainless Potato peeler

Sugar bowl ) steel Tea strainer

Thermos bag Tin opener

Trays

________________________________________

Candlesticks Coasters

Cutlery Meat carvers

Napkin rings Tablemats

________________________________________

Barbecue utensils Cable clips

Desk set Garden games

Racquets (squash & tennis)

The list comprises items that are:

¾�personal (e.g. photographs)

¾�difficult or impossible to obtain locally (e.g.picture hooks)

¾�available locally but of poor quality (e.g. potatopeeler)

________________________________________

Books Cassettes

CDs Games

Hearth Rug Ornaments (small)

Photographs, pictures Picture hooks

& certificates (all framed) Video player and Videos

________________________________________

Music stands & scores Fishing tackle

Violin

________________________________________

Note: It was impossible to rent or purchase adecent upright piano at a reasonableprice; for which reason the author s wifehad to contend with a locally manufacturedgood-quality electronic keyboard

On the other hand, it was possible topurchase a top-quality drum-kit for theauthor s son at a reasonable price

Appendix

Kitchen

Dining Room

Hobbies

Other

Lounge

Post Script

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– AAvvooiidd

________________________________________________________________________________________________

“Chinese Puzzles” – Page 08 Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

TTaabboooo SSuubbjjeeccttss

1. Chinese people may be genuinely offended if youcriticise Mao (or other party leaders, dead or alive),the government, or anything to do with politics

However: Do not be surprised or caught offguard or tempted if they criticise them to you!Especially Mao’s alleged penchant for largefemale tractor drivers! Or the spoilt only-sons orlittle emperors produced by the one-child policy!In our case, the former subject was raised by aChinese colleague with whom we had a closerelationship; the latter by a very seniorgovernment official, father of a daughter, whom Ihad only just met at a select banquet

2. They are worried that someone overhears theconversation and reports it to the party secretary andthey get into trouble

3. The person you are talking to may have been sent bya party official to sound out if you are politically safe

On one occasion, when visiting an academicinstitution with our chairman, the host delegationwas led by the institution’s party secretary ratherthan the Dean

4. Subjects to avoid, at least until you have been inChina long enough to develop an instinct for what youcan say, when and to whom:

Chinese politics, human rights, Tibet, explicitsex, boyfriend/girlfriend, violence, drugs;Tiananmen Square, Taiwan

We were very surprised, only a few days afterarriving in China in 1997, when my thenPersonal Assistant spoke very openly aboutTiananmen Square: she had been there, as astudent; whilst her now husband (this was beforethey were married), a doctor, attended to thecasualties in hospital

5. Subjects with which you must deal in a sensitive wayare:

Politics in other countries; freedom of the press,freedom of speech, and freedom to choose ajob, career or place to live; sex in connectionwith marriage, health or crime; religion; thesupernatural; one child policy

For many Chinese, still their lives are chosen forthem: jobs according to degree, accommodationaccording to employer etc. For example: whenasked by a very senior government official whatwas the greatest benefit of my job, I replied:“Being able to resign”

6. DO NOT:

a. Ask: “Have you got children?” In ourexperience, even the most Westernised Chinesemay find this question funny, and laugh in yourface at your ignorance of the one-child policy.Instead, say: “Have you got a child?” or even“Have you got a son?”. Be prepared forboasting about a son, and lamenting over adaughter

b. Say “no” (see Page 28: Meeting and Greeting –paragraphs 11-12)

c. Preach the Gospel, or invite Chinese to yourChurch. Nevertheless, you may mention yourfaith and visit a Chinese Church. Certainly, ourfriends and colleagues asked us aboutChristianity and were disappointed they couldnot attend our Church, not realising it wasforbidden. When I declared Good Friday acompany holiday, one colleague wanted to“convert” on the spot! – a modern day exampleof a “rice Christian”

SSaaffee SSuubbjjeeccttss

7. These subjects are safe to talk about:

food, weather, landscapes, sights in China, yourfamily, their family, money, wealth, income,careers, non-political literature, hobbies, sport,stamp collecting, holidays and festivals, customsand traditions, food and cooking, holidays;entertainment (TV, films, music), clothes

When talking about jobs and careers, do not besurprised by an apparent inverted socialhierarchy (in Western terms). For example:whilst practising conversational Chinese andEnglish with our first driver (my Chinese, hisEnglish), after I struggled to explain that myfather was dead and had been a doctor, hebeamed back at me in obvious pride and withgreat superiority that his father was a peasant

Source: Christine Hall, Living and Working in China, How to Books,Plymouth (UK) 1996, pp. 87,106

Comments: Minim Consulting, based on personal experience

/ 1

Chinese Puzzles - Banqueting

x x x

Principal Host Interpreter

Principal 2nd

RankingGuest Guest

Interpreter 2nd

RankingHost

x x x

Introduction

This article describes the etiquette for formalbanquets hosted by Chinese for foreign guests,and vice-versa, in China. Whilst the degree offormality may vary, according to the nature andimportance of the occasion, the number of people,the individuals involved and their relationships witheach other, the underlying principles are still thesame (although they are being gradually relaxed)

Displaying some knowledge of banquet etiquettedemonstrates respect for Chinese way of life

Venue

Banquets are usually held in reserved privaterooms in restaurants. Round tables are preferred,as they seat more diners (ten to twelve each) andallow them to face each other

Invitations

For very formal banquets, written invitations maybe issued in English and/or Chinese (one or twoweeks in advance) which recipients should answer- in writing or by ‘phone - and may need to produceto gain entry. The invitation will specify the host,date, time, venue and, where appropriate, theoccasion and principal guest

Author’s invitation to a banquet in honour of theBritish Prime Minister – Beijing, October 1998

Arrival and Welcome

In China, punctuality is a virtue, and tardiness aninsult. Thus: guests should arrive on time (andtogether, if members of the same organisation);whilst the hosts assemble earlier in the banquetroom ready to greet the guests, to keep whomwaiting is even ruder. On arrival, guests should bemet by the hosts’ representative and accompanied

to the banquet room, which the most senior guestshould enter first. If the hosts greet their guestswith applause, the correct response is to applaudback. Before eating, the (principal) guests may beinvited to sit in easy-chairs, offered tea andcigarettes, and briefly indulge in small-talk, until therestaurant staff indicate that everything is ready

Seating

Seating is hierarchical, based on rank. Thus: thehosts should request or be sent before-hand a listof the guests’ names, in order of seniority, in orderto prepare seating plans; and guests wait to beshown to their seats, normally indicated by bi-lingual name cards (and/or, at large banquets, ontable-plans displayed outside the banquet room).This also ensures that the Chinese and foreignersmingle, rather than gravitating into two camps

As in the West, the right-hand side is of higherstatus than the left: hence, the principal guest sitson the right-hand of the principal host, facing thedoor; and the second-ranking guest and hostdirectly opposite. Any interpreters are placed onthe right-hand of the principal and second-rankingguests (or opposite, at a rectangular table), whichavoids them constantly having to swivel their head.If several tables are used, third and fourth rankersmay sit opposite each other at a second table; andfifth and sixth at a third etc. Alternatively, secondrankers may head a second table, and thirdrankers a third etc. In both cases, the top table isthe furthest away from door; and the secondarytables arranged so that their senior hosts can seeand be seen by the principal host at the top table.With mixed guests (from different organisations),the most senior member of each delegation shouldsit at the top table. On less formal occasions,the organisers should still work out beforehandwhere the principal host(s) and guest(s) will sit

So much for the theory: in reality, the list ofChinese guests may not be finalised until the lastminute, since their acceptances or refusals couldbe telephoned very late. Worse still: a guest who isunable to attend may send a substitute, possibly ofdifferent rank, which will upset the seating protocol

Simple seating plan for a one-table banquet

Door

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Toasting

Alcohol plays an important part in banquets, andshould flow freely. Toasting is mandatory

Drinking alcohol should not start until after theprincipal host stands to propose the first toastwith a speech (averaging three to five minutes)and/or the words “gan bei” (equivalent to “bottomsup”; literally “empty” or “dry the glass”). A fewcourses later, it is customary and courteous for theprincipal guest to reply in similar fashion.Thereafter, anyone may propose a toast, to thegroup or individually, standing or sitting, spoken orsilently, with alcohol or a soft drink. Indeed, neverdrink alcohol alone: instead, catch someone’s eye,make a silent toast by smiling, and drink together

To make a toast: hold the glass in both hands andextend it towards the toastee, without clinking. Atone time, glasses had to be drained and turnedupside down: today, however, sobriety hasreplaced tradition, and a token sip is now quitesufficient & acceptable. At less formal banquets,Chinese now touch the table (“lazy Susan”) withthe bottom of their glass, instead of clinking them

If several tables are used, it is customary andcourteous for the principal host and guest to visit& propose a standing toast to each table, clinkingglasses (rim to stem) with other principal guests

The main toasting drink is “maotai”, a 100%+ spiritmade in Maotai (Guizhou Province) from wheat &sorghum (a type of millet), which could bemistaken for lighter-fuel. You have been warned!

Drinking

Between toasts, sip beer, a soft drink or tea. Ifyour glass or cup is empty, however, do not fill ityourself, which is impolite. Rather, take care to fillyour neighbours’, and you should find that theywill reciprocate. The fuller you fill someone’sglass, without it spilling over, the more respect andfriendship you demonstrate

Beware of the host who tries to make you drunk orchallenge you to drinking games: it may be amatter of courtesy or honour for him to do so! Tobe drunk, or exhibit signs of drunkenness, inpublic (e.g. staggering, falling, vomiting) isunacceptable and a loss of face. A polite way ofrefusing alcohol is to turn the glass upside down orplace your hand over it. In desperation, cite healthreasons (e.g. allergy!); and, to save face, continueto toast eagerly with a soft drink!

Do not stop drinking, or change from hard to softdrinks, in the middle of a banquet, since the hostsmay incorrectly conclude they have offended you

When the host yourself: avoid serving alcoholbeforehand

Although well-bred Chinese women do not drinkalcohol (except beer) in public, Western femaleguests may do so in moderation without incurringany shame, as the Chinese do expect Westernersto behave strangely!

Serving

The main difference from Western practice is thatin China, rather than diners being served individualplates of food, dishes are placed in the centre ofthe table for everyone not only to share but also toadmire

Appreciation of the presentation is almost asimportant as of the taste. Thus, guests areexpected ritually to praise both - both from time totime during, and at the end of, the banquet.Beware, however, of ritually praising food thatyou do not like: your host may remember, andserve the same again next time!

Equally, self-deprecation is considered politebehaviour in China, the host should reply byritually apologising for serving a meagre meal –which the cynics might consider false modesty“fishing for compliments”

In the absence of waiters, it is the hosts’responsibility to monitor guests’ plates and servethem throughout the meal. Do not start the firstcourse until either the principal host has servedthe principal guest and others within chopstickreach (by selecting the best morsels and placingthem on their plates) or raised his chopsticks andinvited the diners to eat. Then you may serveyourself with your own chopsticks, or the publicchopsticks or serving spoons (if provided). Withsuccessive courses, it is equally polite again towait until the principal guests have been servedbefore serving yourself

Help yourself to the dishes and portions nearest toyou: it is rude to reach across the table and/or helpyourself to the best portions. Rather, take care tooffer the choicest morsels to your neighbours, andyou should find that they will reciprocate. Indeed,helping fellow diners to food is both polite andshows respect. If public chopsticks and servingspoons are out of reach, reverse your chopsticksand use the end that has not been in your mouth.Do not serve with a spoon used for personal eating

Note, however, that, contrary to Western custom,Chinese protocol is to serve others rather thanoneself, although this practice is changing throughforeign influence. You should, therefore, observehow the Chinese diners behave and follow suit

/ 3


Eating

Diners can eat as much or little as they like of eachcourse, according to their taste, without offendingthe host. However, they should pace themselves,eating slowly and steadily, and tasting a bit ofeverything; and not rush or fill up too early, since itto stop eating in the middle of a banquet is rude,and may lead the hosts incorrectly to conclude thatthey have caused offence

To refuse food is at worst impolite; and at bestineffective, susceptible to being interpreted by theChinese in their own terms as ritual modesty, notto be taken literally. However, to refrain fromeating something is acceptable (albeit ungracious).Indeed, you should try to sample every dish

Thus, when faced with something you dislike ordistrust, accept but do not eat it: instead, just pushit around on your plate a bit and pretend you havesampled it. The main exception to this rule iswhen your host serves you personally, even fromhis own plate, when he has probably chosen themost succulent morsel. On such an occasion, torefuse would be an insult: sometimes, you justhave to grin and swallow!

To remove something from your mouth: use yourchopsticks or spit discreetly into a cloth rather thanusing your fingers (which is considered impolite)

Chopsticks (“kwaizi”)

Westerners who have difficulty using chopsticksmay use the porcelain spoon provided at eachplace setting, but only after “having a go”. Whilstforeigners who find chopsticks awkward do notoffend them, the Chinese do appreciate theirtrying: after all, they cannot all use a knife and fork!

The Chinese use chopsticks any way they like,even spearing food with them (despite what thebooks say). If there is a correct way, however, itis to use your right hand (to avoid clashing withyour neighbour), whilst keeping your left on thetable (to avoid any speculation as to what it isdoing). Also, the nearer the top (i.e. further awayfrom tip) you hold the chopsticks, the better bredyou are considered

It is bad manners to play with chopsticks, pointthem at anyone, or lay them directly on the table.Above all, do not leave your chopsticks in the rice-bowl while doing something else - which is anomen of death, being reminiscent of incense sticksin a bowl of ashes offered to the dead: instead, laythem on the rest provided, or the rim of your plate

Menu

A banquet is a demonstration of the generosity andprosperity of the host by giving the guests a tasteof many different dishes served successively

The banquet will start with an even number (four toten) of cold appetizers (e.g. meat, seafood andpickled vegetables), which do not count as part ofthe meal proper but are intended to whet thediners’ appetites and to accompany the first toast.The main courses (6-12) follow, comprising hotmeat, fish or “yu”, poultry, seafood and vegetabledishes; and staple food (e.g. rice or “mifan”,noodles, dumplings or “jiaozi”). The Chinese donot generally eat dessert, but fruit is consideredan appropriate finale to a good meal

Fish

When serving a whole fish, the head should pointtowards, and may be offered to, the principal guest

Rice

Hosts may not always serve rice at a banquet; inwhich case, guests should never ask for it, as thiswould imply that the host has not provided enoughfood. Similarly, when rice is served, guests onlyneed to pick at it, by way of indicating theirsatisfaction. (This is in contrast to private meals,where, in deference to the importance of rice inChinese history & culture, to leave rice is impolite:just as Western children are encouraged to “finishtheir greens”, so Chinese children are to eat theirrice). Surprisingly, the correct way to eat rice is toraise the bowl to your mouth with one hand, and“shovel in” the rice with the chopsticks

Banquet offered by the British Embassy and theBritish Chamber of Commerce in China to honourthe British Prime Minister – Beijing, October 1998

Barbecued Meat Combination

Sautéed Diced Chicken with Assorted Vegetablesand Cashew Nuts

Sliced Goose with Bean Curd

Diced Beef Tenderloin in Black Pepper Sauce

Braised Shark’s Fin and Fish Maw in Soup

Steamed Mandarin Fish with Light Soya Sauce

Young Vegetables In Superior Broth

Glutinous Rice in Lotus Leaves

Beijing Pork Dumpling

Traditional Moon Cake with Lotus Bean Paste

Seasonal Fresh Fruit Platter

/ 4


Noodles

Do not be surprised if the Chinese diners eat thenoodles noisily as a sign of their enjoyment andappreciation

However, eating noisily on other occasions (e.g.soup) is no longer as acceptable as it used to be

Soup

Soup (a thin broth to aid digestion) may be servedbefore or after the main courses, depending onwhere in China; and dispensed by the host. Thebowl may be held in one hand, and the soupsipped from the bowl or using a porcelain spoon

Bones

Leave bones and shells on your plate, which thewaiters will remove and replace with a clean one

Conversation

Normal rules of conversational etiquette in Chinaapply (as for business meetings and negotiations).Thus, diners other than the principals may have towait to be invited to speak

For example: at his first formal banquet on asingle-table hosted by a Vice-Minister of theMinistry of Foreign Trade and Economic Co-Operation (MOFTEC), the author had to remainsilent for nearly one hour

In particular, your neighbours may not speakEnglish: however, if you do not know Chinese, youshould still try to communicate with them somehow(e.g. in another language). Not to do so is a socialblunder

For example: when the author’s wife found herselfnext to the Director-General of the ChinesePerforming Arts Agency, they were soonconducting a very animated conversation inSpanish!

Never speak off the record at a banquet: yourwords may come back to haunt you. Also, somesay: wait until after the fish dish has arrived todiscuss business

Dress

Standard banquet attire is a dark, lounge suit andtie for men; and a dress or trouser suit for ladies.There is no need to wear a dinner-jacket, unlessspecifically requested (for example: as the authorwas, at the China Club in Beijing)

Drivers and Interpreters

Ensure that arrangements are made to feed yourguests’ drivers, according to local custom (fromproviding a simple meal in a separate room, togiving them cash to buy their own food somewhereelse)

For example: when hosting his first large-scalesenior banquet (including the British Ambassadorand the Chair of the People’s Life InsuranceCompany of China), only thanks to the author’sChinese personal assistant’s quick-wittedness wasa near-disaster averted when she took immediateremedial action on learning that no sucharrangements had been made for the drivers

Similarly: agree beforehand how and when theinterpreter(s) should eat

For example: at the author’s first formal banquet,the British guests were embarrassed that theChinese interpreter was not expected to eat untilthe end of the meal

Gifts

Personal gifts may be left at the place settingsbefore the banquet begins; whilst the principal orcommunal gifts (i.e. between the principal guestand host) should be presented publicly andformally at an appropriate moment, using bothhands (e.g. when making or responding to themain toast)

Each side should let the other side know of its gift,to avoid the embarrassment of one party comingempty-handed and being unable to reciprocate

In China, the thought counts more than the gift (“liqing; ren yi zhong”); for which reason, it is notcustomary to open gifts in the presence of thegiver, since to do so would draw attention to thegift, and detract from the thought. Thus, personalgifts are not opened during the banquet, butafterwards in private – which practice also avoidsthe embarrassment of having to feign drooling overkitsch. Exceptionally, however, you may ask theChinese to open your principal or communal gift tothem, explaining that this is a Western custom

Smoking

Smoking between courses is not unusual

Although Chinese women tend not to smoke, andespecially in public, Western female guests maydo so in moderation without incurring shame, asthe Chinese expect Westerners to behave oddly!

/ 5


Spouses

Chinese partners do not normally attend, even ifforeigners’ spouses are invited (and seated at thesame table, where feasible). As elsewhere, themost honoured place for the principal guest’sspouse is on the left-hand of the principal host

Toothpicks

As elsewhere, use one hand to wield the toothpick,the other to hide your mouth from onlookers

Touching Food

Touching food is generally impolite. There aresome exceptions, however, such as eating largesteamed buns, meat on the bone (e.g. chickenfeet, a delicacy in China), Peking duck, shellfishand whole fruits with your fingers – although usingchopsticks is quite feasible, as the author had tolearn. When in doubt: follow the example of theChinese diners

Similarly: if you drop food on the floor, leave it

Towels

Towels are provided at the beginning and end ofthe banquet for the diners to wipe their hands andface: hot in winter, cold in summer

Timing, Closure and Departure

It is not only polite but also “de rigueur” for thehost to over-order; and the guests to leavesomething on their plates to signify their hungerhas been satisfied. Thus, if all the food wereconsumed, or bowls emptied, the host would beembarrassed, thinking he had left the guestshungry. Before leaving, therefore, guests shouldnot hesitate to tell their host that they have eatenenough

Contrary to Western practice, it is the host, not theguests, who takes the initiative in bringing theproceeding to a close

Thus, the banquet ends after the last course, withlittle ceremony beyond the host thanking theguests for coming, asking if they have had enoughto eat (to which the polite reply is “yes”) and risingfrom table. Chinese manners call for a speedyconclusion: to linger is impolite. Thus, there is no“Tischgespraech” or “over-coffee table-talk”

Ensure, therefore, that your transport home iswaiting for you at the end of the banquet: to be leftstanding around alone will embarrass your host

The host may bid the guests farewell (with ahandshake) at the door; or accompany them totheir cars, remaining outside, waving, until all haveleft – before returning to the restaurant, alone, tosettle the bill

Evening banquets usually start at 6 p.m., last some2 hours, and finish by 8 p.m. Any later, and youmay find that the Chinese guests, who prefer to goto an evening banquet straight from work, cannotattend and/or get transport home

For example: in the author’s experience, the laterstart and finish times in summer suggested bysome writers (e.g. 7 p.m. and 9 p.m. respectively)are not convenient to the Chinese

Reciprocating

The host pays bill; and the guests reciprocate witha return banquet. “Going Dutch” is unheard of inChina except between very close friends, whenmoney should only be exchanged in private toavoid the host losing face

Help!

Food in China bears no relation to that served inWestern Chinese restaurants. Indeed, there is asaying: “the Chinese eat anything that flies, exceptaeroplanes; anything with legs, except tables; andanything in the sea, except submarines”

To avoid any nasty surprises or loss of face:

¾�refrain from live food (e.g. drunk prawns)

¾�sometimes it is better not to know what you areeating: snake & alligator are really quite tasty!

¾�familiarise yourself with such euphemisms as:field chicken” for “bull frogs”; and “seacucumber” for “sea slugs”

¾�if your staff insist on trying out new dishes onyou: ask if you can choose a dish, choose themost outrageous dish that you dare (forexample: the author ordered pig tail) and eat itwith relish: they may not trouble you again

¾�Chinese food is often laced with mono-sodiumglutamate (“weijing”), which swells inside youand makes you feel full. If you react badly to it,try asking in Western-style restaurants for foodwithout MSG (“qing gei wo mei you weijing”)

Otherwise: if you do not have a strong stomach,ask for an alternative assignment!

Post Script

Remember: business banquets serve to build trustand friendship

/ 6


From the Author’s Photograph Album

The top table at the Banquet to launch the “Britain inChina” campaign, China World Hotel, Beijing, January1998. From left to right: (1) 3

rdGuest of Honour: Sir

John Carter, CEO, Commercial Union (2) Interpreter(3) Principal Guest: Minister, MOFTEC (4) Host: AdamWilliams, Chair, British Chamber of Commerce in China(5) 2

ndGuest of Honour: Rt. Hon Margaret Beckett MP,

Trade Secretary

At the same Banquet: the Host and Principal BritishGuest visit and propose a standing toast to each table

A general view of the same Banquet, including (in theforeground) the table hosted by the author

Bibliography

General A Chinese Banquet,chineseculture.about.com, 2002

Beijing, Insight Guides, Apa Publications,3rd edition, Hong Kong, 1997, pp. 70-73

Beijing, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 3

rdedition, 1998, p. 127

Beijing Scene Guidebook, Beijing ScenePublishing, USA, 1997, pp. 84-87

China, Insight Guides, Apa Publications,9

thedition, Singapore, 2000, pp. 134, 136,

403

China, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 7

thedition, 2000, p. 147

China Business Handbook, Alain CharlesPublishing, 5

thedition, London, 2002, pp.

51-52

China Introduction, China Travel Guide,chinatravelguide.com, 2002

Cultural Essentials, chinavista.com, 2002

Culture Shock! China, Sinclair and WongPo-yee, Kuperard, UK, 3

rdedition, 1999,

pp. 234-236

Dealing with the Chinese, Scott DSeligman, Management Books 2000,1997, pp. 80, 83-102, 105, 109-110, 165-8

Encountering the Chinese, Hu Wenzhong& Cornelius L Grove, Intercultural Press,USA, 1991, pp. 33-37, 146-151

Living and Working in China, EmploymentConditions Abroad Limited, UK, 1996, p. 7

Old Shanghai, Betty Peh-T’I Wei,Oxford University Press, Hong Kong,1993, pp. 60-62

Shanghai, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 1

stedition, 2001, pp. 137, 139-

140

Travel Tips, China National TourismAssociation, cnta.com, 2002

Welcome to Beijing, Jones Lang Wootton,Beijing, 1997. pp. 19, 21

Xenophobe’s Guide to the Chinese, J CYang, Oval Books, 3

rdedition, 1999, pp.

50-51

1 2 3 4 5

Author

/ 1

Chinese Puzzles – Business Meetings

Introduction

This article describes the etiquette for businessmeetings in China between foreigners and theChinese. Whilst the degree of formality may vary,according to the nature and importance of theoccasion, the relationship between the individualsinvolved, the underlying principles are the same

The correct observance of meeting etiquetteimproves the chances of securing a useful meetingand a successful outcome

Arranging Meetings - How

It is common, if not necessary, for intermediaries(individual or corporate) to arrange meetings onbehalf of the parties themselves who may:

¾�not know each other, and hence need to relyon third parties whom they both know and trust(following the Chinese practice of personalnetworking or “guanxi”)

¾�be of such seniority that it would be infra dig, inChinese terms (i.e. loss of face), for them tomake their own arrangements

¾�not speak each other’s language, and henceneed the services of someone who does

The process may involve several levels ofintermediary; and be by telephone and/or in writing

For example: the author’s bi-lingual personalassistant or senior English-speaking Chinesecolleague would usually arrange his meetings viathe other parties’ opposite numbers, whom theyinvariably knew directly or through a friend of afriend, using their “guanxi”. However, the authorused consultants with impeccable politicalcredentials to broker meetings between his groupboard members & Chinese government ministers

Arranging Meetings - When

Arranging meetings is a nightmare; and flexibilitythe solution

Contrary to Western practice, appointments shouldbe made later rather than earlier. The Chinese sodislike committing to future appointments (in casethey cannot keep them) that they actually preferlast-minute arrangements when they have aclearer idea of the other calls on their time - say:not more than two weeks ahead

Sometimes, meetings may not be finalised until theday before, or the day itself. This is especiallyfrustrating when delegates are attending from thehome country and are already on the airplane; butis explained by the Chinese view that there is no

urgency until they arrive in China, since anythingcould happen in meantime to abort the visit

Meetings are often re-arranged at the last minute

For example: a Chinese Vice-Minister’s officetelephoned the author to bring forward a meetingimmediately with his Deputy CEO, who was thenhosting a luncheon for very - but less - seniorgovernment officials, or otherwise to cancel it.Rank prevailed, and the meeting went ahead (onempty stomachs!). To ensure we complied, as analternative the Vice-Minister offered a meeting atthe original time but with another Ministry officialpresiding of lower rank than himself and theDeputy CEO, which would have caused the latterto lose “face” in Chinese eyes (see next section)

Occasionally, meetings may be cancelled at thelast minute, amidst much embarrassment -especially if the foreign principal has alreadyarrived in China - because the Chinese principalhas been “summoned” by the powers that be

For example: the author’s boss arrived in Chinaone Sunday for an early Monday morning meeting(confirmed as late as possible on Friday afternoon)with the Chair of the People’s Life InsuranceCompany of China [PICC Life] only to be told thatshe had just been invited a week-long Party event

To protest is futile

For example: the Chinese President treated theBritish Premier in like manner when the latter wasthe principal guest at an official banquet in Beijing,summoning him half-way through to an impromptumeeting - after he had already arrived late at thebanquet because the scheduled meeting with thePresident had over-run

In such ways, do the Chinese put foreigners intheir place, and remind them who is in charge!

Arranging Meetings – With Whom

Meetings should take place between principles ofequal rank, to save the “face” of the Chineseprinciple – which means in practice that the rank ofthe:

¾�foreign principal will determine the maximumavailable rank of the Chinese counterpart

¾�Chinese principal will determine the minimumrequired rank of the foreign counterpart

Hence, until the details of the foreign principal areconfirmed, the rank of the Chinese principal maynot be made known – let alone the name. Meetinga (Vice-)Minister may be difficult; but nothingcompared to meeting a specific one, whichrequires the cast-iron guarantee of a specificforeign principal of at least equal rank

/ 2


For example: from the author’s own experience, atitled CEO (“Sir so-and-so”) certainly open doors

The provenance of the foreign principal is alsoimportant: that someone should come all the wayfrom the UK or USA (even if resident in China) is agreater sign of commitment to and respect forChina than, say, from Singapore or Hong Kong

Preparation

Chinese organisations typically request back-ground information before they agree to formaldiscussions, for the following reasons:

¾�The Chinese dislike surprises, preferring tohammer out their own positions in advance ofa meeting in order to present a united front. Ina country where collectivity takes precedenceover individuality, consensus is not only veryimportant but also serves to take advantage ofcollective wisdom and build self-confidence

¾�Similarly, they also prefer to react to others’ideas, rather than bear the onus of setting thescope of the discussions themselves

¾�Knowing what will be discussed beforehandalso permits them to select the properparticipants for a meeting. Otherwise,foreigners are likely to be fobbed off with publicrelations personnel who have a liaison role, butare not decision makers

¾�To establish credentials of and on both sides

Consequently: provide as much information aspossible about the topics that you wish to discuss,and a list of attendees with brief career résumés;and give the Chinese time to study your request.Likewise, do ask the Chinese for similarinformation, if they request the meeting

Documentation should be bi-lingual, in straight-forward language (to ease interpretation) and, iftabled at the meeting, presented with both hands

Briefing

Ensure that every member of your group is fullybriefed about the relevant:

¾�meeting etiquette

¾�recent and planned developments in China(e.g. political, economic and legal)

¾�details of the Chinese organisation you arevisiting (e.g. structure and performance)

¾�personal details and career history of theChinese principal and senior ranking attendees

¾�questions that the Chinese organisation mayask of you; and answers that you may andmay not give

¾�questions that you may and may not ask of theChinese organisation

¾�plans and achievements of your organisation,and its main competitors, in relation to China

¾�history of your organisation’s previousrelationship and meetings with the Chineseorganisation, at home and in China

¾�overall key aims and objectives of the meeting;and individual contributions and roles

and that all who may be called upon to speak, notjust the leader, know exactly what and not to say

For example: the author had to ensure that a fullbriefing-pack was prepared for each programme ofmeetings between his group board members andsenior Chinese government officials (at about six-weekly intervals), including a literal transcript of anopening speech, follow-up remarks and questions,and answers to Frequently Answered Questions

Otherwise, meetings can quickly resemble Danielgoing into the lion’s den

For example: Within days of arriving in China, theauthor was invited by a Chinese colleague to pay a“courtesy call” on an acquaintance, a mid-rankingofficial at the People’s Bank of China [PBOC].What constituted “courtesy” was never defined,and did not seem to warrant a briefing. However,meeting etiquette still had to be observed, and theauthor expected to deliver a speech (albeitimpromptu). Afterwards, when she commentedfavourably on the lack of formality, the Chinesecolleague was suitably admonished to brief herboss before all meetings, however “informal”

Purpose

From that courtesy call, it became clear that theChinese expect all meetings to have a purposethat benefits them: otherwise, why give up theirprecious time? Unless the Chinese feel that youhave something new to say or offer, or that theyare gaining new benefit at each meeting, they willsoon cease agreeing to meeting you. Reminiscingdoes not fall into that category

Venue

In China, meetings are generally held in spacious,air-conditioned conference rooms rather thanovercrowded, noisy and stuffy offices. Soft chairsand sofas line the perimeter of the room or arearranged around a central oblong table. Next tothe chairs are small tables for the teacups, whichare constantly filled by a discrete army of flunkies

In the author’s experience, ashtrays and spittoonswere never provided or used

/ 3


Timing

Office hours are generally 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.with a statutory lunch-break at mid-day. Plan formeetings to fit within these timeframes, and finishby 11:30 a.m. or 4:30 p.m.

Allow for the process of interpretation, which willhalve or may even reduce to a third the effectivediscussion time - bearing in mind that mostmeetings last no more than one hour, andsometimes only 30 minutes with very senior andbusy Government officials

Arrival

In China, punctuality is a virtue, and tardiness aninsult. Thus: delegates should arrive on time –neither late nor early - whilst the hosts assembleearlier in the meeting room ready to greet thedelegates, to keep whom waiting is even ruder.Latecomers should apologise profusely in order toshow that they meant no insult

For example: to ensure that the author’s groupboard members arrived “just in time” for meetingswith senior Chinese government officials, his driverused to estimate journey times by making practiceruns in the Beijing traffic

On arrival, delegates should be met by the hosts’representative and accompanied to the meetingroom. Following Chinese custom, the most seniordelegate should enter first, followed by theinterpreter and other delegates in rank order.This allows the Chinese easily to identify theprincipal guest delegate and main secondarydelegates; otherwise, they may mistake whoeverdoes enter first as the principal delegate

Welcome and Introductions

The principal host and delegate should introducemembers of their party in same way as in West, inrank order. Where delegates are of equal level, orin informal settings, introductions should be in ageorder (starting with eldest), in deference to theChinese respect for their elders; and of women tomen: “Miss Xu, I would like you to meet Mr Smith”

Chinese seldom hold meetings with foreignersalone; staff members are invariably present. Donot be surprised, therefore, if the Chineseparticipants out-number your delegation, sincesuperiority of numbers is just one way that theChinese put foreigners in their place. Not only forthis reason will not all the Chinese participantsnecessarily be introduced: those who are not areusually observers or apprentices, with no activerole to play – or covert Party members

Unusually, refreshments may accompany thewelcome occasionally, even delaying proceedings

For example: on first meeting a College Principal,prior to a prize-giving, the author was offered fruit,to have refused which would have been rude, eventhough it meant keeping the students waiting

During introductions: shake hands, smile, say “nihao?” (“how are you?”) or, more politely, “nin hao?”(where “nin” is equivalent to the French “vous”),and hand over a name card with both hands and aslight bow – whilst at the same time accepting theother person’s name card, also with both hands

Name Cards

In China, visiting or business cards are usuallycalled “name cards” (“ming pian”); and theirexchange forms an important part of meeting andgreeting all and sundry

Having names cards means you are “somebody”;conversely, not having name is interpreted as yournot being very important. Similarly, the more namecards the Chinese receive, the more (foreign)people they have met and important they feel orare perceived

Thus, just having name cards is the first step todoing business successfully in China. Collectingthem also serves as a simple means of building upa contact database, and to show to taxi drivers onsubsequent occasions

Name cards should be printed on both sides - onein English; the other in Chinese, using simplifiedcharacters – and include: company name, logoand business nature; name, title, permanentcontact details (postal and e-mail address; and‘phone and fax numbers); and, if a visitor, localcontact point (e.g. mobile phone number)

Always have an ample supply of name cards (atleast a boxful at any one time); and, to cause agood impression, carry sufficient for the nextmeeting in a silver or leather card-holder

Author’s name card – English side

/ 4


A common opening gambit for the principal foreigndelegate is briefly to:

1. Thank the principal Chinese host for taking timeout from his “undoubtedly” busy schedule

2. Remind him fondly of the last meeting(s) theyand/or their colleagues had, and the positiveoutcome for both parties

3. Convey greetings from senior colleaguespresent at that meeting, but not at this

4. Compliment him on the progress that the hostdepartment / company / ministry etc. has madesince that last meeting, not forgetting to speakfavourably of the advancement of China ingeneral

5. Congratulate him on any personalachievements (e.g. promotion)

6. Outline the purpose of the meeting

7. Mention who the senior colleagues present are,particularly if the principal host and/or his seniorcolleagues have met them before

Whilst this may seem superficial, even “fawning”, itshould reflect the protocol that the principal Chinesehost will be following

Door

Delegate or Delegate orNote-Taker Note-Taker

Interpreter Host No 2

Principal Guest Principal Host

Guest No 2 Interpreter

Delegate or Delegate orNote-Taker Note-Taker

Author’s name card – Chinese side

One word of warning: ensure you do not hand onsomeone else’s name card that you have justreceived

For example: the author carried a leather card-holder with two pockets, one for cards “in”, theother for cards “out”

Seating

Important guests are escorted to their seats, withthe principal guest being placed in the seat ofhonour to the right of the principal host (or facing, ifat a table). Others may sit where they like - thoughit is customary to sit in descending rank order

Simple seating plan for meeting without central table

Simple seating plan for meeting with central table

Structure

Meetings between foreign business(wo)men andChinese officials are not free exchanges butstructured dialogues between the principals onboth sides. Other delegates act as witnesses, andparticipate in the conversation only upon theirprincipal’s explicit invitation. To interrupt a speakeris rude

For example: when accompanying his group boardmembers on visits to senior Chinese governmentofficials, the author occasionally had to bite histongue when they inadvertently deviated from theagreed speech, and wait until invited to speak tosupply the missing or correct information withoutcausing anyone any loss of face

Opening Gambit

Chinese meetings begin with small talk. To diveright into the matter in hand is an impolite breachof etiquette. Avoid the temptation of laying all yourcards on the table at the outset; rather, start withice-breakers like general observations or questionsbefore easing into focus of meeting

The Chinese principal will not interrupt; and mayreply in similar vein, including a lecture on Chinafor the “illiterate” foreigners. However boring orfamiliar, remember someone has taken the troubleto prepare a brief in an attempt to be helpful

Door

Host No 1Guest No 1

Interpreter Interpreter

Guest No 2

Delegate

Note-Taker

Host No 2

Delegate

Note-Taker

/ 5


Smile, and show appreciation by later askingclarifying questions (to prove that you werelistening and pretend that it was for the first time)

Exchange

In the exchange that follows, the foreign principalwill normally be invited to speak first. This is notjust good manners, but – given their preference forreacting to others’ ideas, rather than setting theagenda themselves - a ploy for the Chinese to gainthe upper-hand by safely lobbing the ball back intothe foreigner’s court and back-footing him

The exchange between the two principals maytake two forms: either a lengthy and exhaustivediscourse by the first speaker, followed by anequally lengthy reply (like a debate); or anexposition of, and immediate reply to, a number ofindividual points (like a ping-pong match). Bothare acceptable; but remember to declare at theoutset which one you propose to follow

For example: the author was invited to explain torepresentatives of the PBOC and PICC the rangeof insurance competence & training schemes andprofessional qualifications in the UK – a complexand, to the uninitiated, possibly confusing subject.After some 15 or 20 minutes of uninterrupted (andprepared) speaking, he paused for any questions –only to be asked to carry on!

Whatever form the exchange takes, you will needa good memory. When speaking, the betterprepared you appear - i.e. the less reference tonotes - and the more eye contact you canmaintain, the more favourable the impression youare likely to cause. When replying, the Chinesewill expect you to emulate them by rememberingand dealing with all the points in the order raised

The latter (ping-pong) form of exchange is kinderto the attention span of all concerned

Talk at a steady pace; and avoid off-the-cuffremarks and inappropriate humour, which may notbe understood and, hence, embarrass the Chinese

Sell – Not Tell

The normal rules of negotiating etiquette andstrategy in China apply

Thus, do not commit the cardinal sin at a meetingof reminding the Chinese hosts what you havedone for them in the past, and/or telling them whatyou are going to do for them or want from them inthe future - which not only reveals your hand butalso demonstrates a total disregard for their needsand “face”

Even worse, is to tell your Chinese hosts what theyneed and that you have the solution. Rather, firstfind out what they need and what you could do thatwould help them and then sell what you have tooffer as the solution. Make your solution their idea

Asking and Handling Questions

Wait until the speaker has finished before askingquestions, and only seek clarification. Never putanyone “on the spot” by asking an unrelatedquestion, which could result in loss of face for theChinese if they do not know the answer. Similarly,do not introduce a new request, since the Chinesedo not make “off the cuff” decisions (see above:“Preparation”). In either instance, when caught offguard, the Chinese will defer with a face savingreason

By the same token, never put colleagues on thespot; nor admit that you do not know the answer –say that you will get back

For example: after listening to several lengthysimultaneously-translated speeches in Chinese atthe Chartered Insurance Institute’s CentenaryRoadshow in Beijing, co-sponsored by hisemployer, the author - sitting on the podium - wasasked, without any warning, to respond to theChinese speakers. That was one favour he waslater able to call in!

Asking Favours and Making Promises

Never put your host “on the spot” by asking forsomething that (s)he cannot deliver, or a promise(s)he cannot keep, which would be a loss of “face”.Rather, always offer a way out, to preserve his/herface. Otherwise, in the wake of such a request,the tone of the meeting will slowly but surely cool

For example: the author once witnessed a foreignbusinessman, carried away by the hitherto bon-homie of the moment, throw caution to the windand ask a Chinese Departmental Director when hiscompany would be granted a trading licence. Theatmosphere subtly changed to become noticeablyless friendly: the licence was not in the gift of theDirector, which the businessman should haveknown

By the same token: never make rash promises thatyou cannot keep or have no intention of keeping.Even a light-hearted invitation to look you up nexttime your host is your home country could one dayland you with an airfare and hotel bill for a mini-delegation out the blue!

For example: the author happily managed to avoidthis pitfall, but knows of others who did not

/ 6


Taking Notes

Ensure that your group includes a bi-lingual note-taker, with the principal host’s permission, for thefollowing reasons (apart from keeping a record):

¾�The Chinese party will undoubtedly include anote-taker, whose detailed minutes could beso fully circulated that they might come back toembarrass you, aeons later, when quoted bysomeone present or not present at the meeting

¾�The Chinese have a habit of askinginterminable and multiple questions all in asingle long sentence. Being able to call on thenote-taker to prompt you, by breaking thequestion down into its component parts, isinvaluable

¾�You need someone in your party who canmonitor the accuracy and fullness of theinterpretations: otherwise you may never knowwhether what you said and heard was reallywhat the Chinese principal heard and said

Interpreter

It is common practice in China to conduct meetingswith foreigners through interpreters

Even Chinese who speak foreign languagesemploy interpreters, not only as a ploy to gainface-saving thinking time, but also as a statussymbol to enhance their importance. Do not besurprised, therefore, if your Chinese counterpartaddresses you in perfect English at the end of themeeting: (s)he may well have studied for an MBAat a Western University (for example: as the authorexperienced, when meeting the Deputy Director ofthe PBOC, Shanghai). For the same reason,never make “sotto voce” comments in your ownlanguage, in case you are overheard & understood

The basic techniques for speaking through aninterpreter at a meeting are no different from doingso on other occasions (such as at banquets, pressconferences, public lectures or even shopping);and are enumerated elsewhere in this publication

There are, however, a number of additionalconsiderations in relation to meetings:

¾�Do provide your own interpreter: otherwise,your Chinese counterpart may consider thatyou are not senior enough to warrant one and,therefore, not his/her equal

¾�Always talk to, and maintain eye contact with,the person whom you are addressing - neverthe interpreter - not only out of respect but alsobecause it is the tone, inflection and pace ofyour voice etc. that is important - not theinterpreter’s

¾�Ensure that your interpreter understands theoverall key aims and objectives of the meeting,and the importance of a successful outcome(when the interpreter too may bask in thereflected glory)

¾�Ensure that you have someone else in yourparty, apart from the interpreter, who is bi-lingual (such as the note-taker) in order toensure not only that the interpreter does agood job but also does not start to conversedirectly with your counterpart

¾�Be aware that interpreters often enjoy intimaterelationships with their principals and wieldinfluence in their own right (such as DengXiaoping’s): indeed, the young femaleinterpreter of an elderly Chinese man couldalso be his mistress

For example: the interpreter who acted for theMayor of Shanghai at a meeting attended bythe author (see photograph below) not onlyturned up in London a year later running atraining establishment for Chinese managersbut also subsequently offered the author a paidspeaking engagement

Body Language

The Chinese often signal the speaker with nods orverbal interjections to show that they understandwhat (s)he is saying. This does not necessarilyindicate agreement

Closure, Gifts and Departure

The meeting may come to a close naturally; orwhen the principal host decides – for example, bysumming up, or making some suitable face-savingexcuse (e.g. the visitors’ tiredness)

Ensure that you:

¾�re-state what was accomplished or agreed atthe meeting to avoid any misunderstandings

¾�ask for a contact person for future dealings

¾�do not forget to hand over your gifts

To take your leave: shake hands, smile, say “zaijian” (“goodbye”, literally “again see”) and bowslightly

Thereafter, it is common practice for the visitors tobe accompanied to the exit by a member of thehost party (possibly the interpreter): contrary toWestern practice, having brought the meeting toan abrupt ending, the Chinese tend to protract thefarewells

/ 7


Dress

Westerners are expected to wear westernbusiness attire. In hot weather, you may be luckyand invited to take off your jacket and tie

Help!

After the meeting, “review to improve” for next time

For example: the worst gaffe committed by theauthor was on meeting the Governor of the PBOCat a College prize-giving - when the conversationran as follows:

Governor: Sir Edward Heath was speaking to methe other day about your company

Author: (feigning surprise) What did he say?

Governor: (with a straight face) What you told himto say!

Thereafter, he admonished his Chinese colleaguesto instruct him what to say, and how to say it, like aglove-puppet

Post Script

This article is based on the author’s experience ofarranging and attending two to three day blocks ofmeetings every six weeks for about twelve monthsbetween his group board members and Chinesegovernment ministers and senior officials

Bibliography

General Beijing Scene Guidebook, Beijing ScenePublishing, USA, 1997, pp. 82-86

China Business Handbook 2002, ChinaEconomic Review, Alain CharlesPublishing, 5

thedition, London, 2002, pp.

52, 54


rd

edition, 1999, pp. 165-167, 170-173, 181

Dealing with the Chinese, Scott DSeligman, Management Books 2000,1997, pp. 51-64, 165

Doing Business in China, Tim Ambler andMorgen Witzel, Routledge, London, 2000,p.29

Encountering the Chinese, Hu Wenzhong& Cornelius L Grove, Intercultural Press,USA, 1991, pp. 21, 30-31, 39-40, 135-137

Living and Working in China, C Hall, HowTo Books, Plymouth (UK), 1996, p. 122

Living and Working in China, EmploymentConditions Abroad Ltd, UK, 1996, pp. 6-7

Welcome to Beijing, Jones Lang Wootton,Beijing, 1997, p. 21

From the Author’s Photograph Album

Meeting the Mayor of Shanghai (March 1998)

Commercial Union Assurance Delegation[1] Delegate (with gifts on the table and floor)[2] Bi-lingual Note-taker[3] Director for China (Author)[4] Chairman[5] Interpreter (Chief Representative for Shanghai)

Mayoral Delegation[6] Interpreter (hidden behind Mayor)[7] Mayor of Shanghai… plus Delegates (out of picture)

Meeting at Shanghai Finance College (March 1998)

Commercial Union Assurance Delegation[1] Bi-lingual Note-taker[2] Chief Representative for Shanghai[3] Director for China (Author)[4] Interpreter (PA to Director for China)[5] Chairman

College Delegation[6] Party Secretary[7] Interpreter… plus Delegates

45 7

3 61 2

The China Syndrome - Climate and Clothing

Page C1

Climate

It is difficult to summarise the Chinese climatebecause it is so variable over such an extensiveterritory and complex topography:

¾�Climatically, China is dominated by dry andwet monsoons, causing stark differences oftemperature in:

Winter, when cold and dry Northern windsfrom high latitude areas bring bitter cold;and the warmest areas are in the Southand Southwest

Summer, when warm and moist (rain-bearing) Southern winds from sea areas atlower latitude bring unbearable heat; andthe coolest spots are in the far Northeast

¾�Geographically, China stretches from thefrigid zone in the North to the tropical andsubtropical zones in the South, with most ofthe country lying in the Northern temperatezone. The Yangtze River, with Shanghai at itsmouth, is the official dividing line between theNorth and South

Thus, there is no one season when the Chineseweather is ideal: even Springtime isunpredictable. However, most places are normallyquite pleasant in Autumn

Overview

China can be divided into seven climatic zones:

n�North East China, where Winter is very coldand dry due to strong continental winds fromthe Northern deserts of Siberia and theMongolian Plateau, and long; and Summer iswarm and humid, with much sunshine andunpredictable rainfall, but short

o�Central China, where Summer is very hot andhumid, with occasional cyclones and typhoonsin its coastal regions; and Winter can bebitterly cold. Rainfall is plentiful all year round

p�South China, in the subtropics, whereSummer is hot, wet and humid, with heavy rainbetween April and September (includingtyphoons between July and September); andWinter is humid and mild, although January toMarch can be chilly

q�South West China, a mountainous area,where Summer temperatures vary according tothe altitude; and Winter is mild and wet, withsome rain

r�The Tibetan Region, a high plateau, with anarctic climate, where Winter is severe, withfrequent light snow and frost; and Summer is

warm during the day but very cold at night.Rain is also heaviest in Summer

s�The Western Interior, an arid desert, whereWinter is cold, and rain falls evenly throughoutthe year

t�Inner Mongolia, comprising mountain rangesand semi-desert lowlands, with an extremecontinental climate, where Winter is cold; andSummer is warm, with heavy rain. Strongwinds make the temperatures even colder inWinter and Spring

North China

Winter (December to March) can be very cold, dryand bereft of sunshine, with temperatures rangingfrom –20

0C in Beijing to –40

0C further North,

where you may find the strange sight of sanddunes covered in snow

Summer (May to August) can be very hot, withtemperatures reaching 38

0C in Beijing, coinciding

with the rainy season for the city

The best weather is in Spring and Autumn, whendaytime temperatures range from 20

0C to 30

0C,

but drop a lot at night

Annual rainfall varies from 63cms to 70cms

Photo: www.chinaetravel.com, 2002

________________________________________

The best season in Beijing is Autumn (Septemberto early November), when there is little rain, and itis neither dry nor humid

Winter is cold, with temperatures falling as low as–20

0C when the Northern winds cut like a knife

through butter

For example: natural and artificial lakes remainfrozen for several weeks, if not months, providinginstant rinks for ice-skating, a popular sport. AtDragon Villas, where the author lived, the outdoorsroller-skating was filled with water and converted toan instant ice-rink

Beijing

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Page C2


Spring (April to May) is short, dry and dusty; andcharacterized by a phenomenon known as “yellowwind” or “dirty rain” plaguing the capital: fine dustblown from the Gobi Desert in the Northwest

For example: when the author was once caught ina short April shower, his pin-stripe suit became sospeckled with dirt that it resembled a camouflagejacket and had to be dry-cleaned

Summer (June to August) is hot and sticky, withan average temperature of 26

0C, accompanied by

high humidity, heavy afternoon thundershowersand mosquitoes in July

See below: “Average Maximum and MinimumTemperatures & Rainfall in Beijing”

The author’s son playing ice-hockey at Dragon Villas(Beijing, Christmas 1997)

North-West China

Summer is hot (in excess of 400C), dry and sunny,

with scorching daytime temperatures in the desertregions. Turpan, at 150m below sea level, is thehottest place in China with temperatures reaching47

0C

Winter is as severely cold as the rest of NorthernChina (up to -10

0C), with temperatures in Turpan

not much better

Annual rainfall is less than 10cms, for whichreason the air is very dry


Central China

In the Yangtze River Valley, Summer (April toOctober) is long and humid with hightemperatures. The cities of Wuhan, Chongqing andNanjing on the Yangtze are China’s three famous“furnaces”

Winter, with temperatures falling well below 00C,

can be as cold as in Beijing, particularly as there isno heating in public buildings South of the YangtzeIt can also be wet and miserable at any time apartfrom Summer. The best weather is probably inSpring and Autumn

Annual rainfall is about 76 cms

Photo: www.chinaguide.org, 2002

________________________________________

The best seasons in Shanghai are Autumn(October and November), when averagetemperatures are 24

0C during the day and 14

0C at

night; and Spring (March and April)

Winter is very cold, with temperatures droppingwell below 0

0C, a blanket of chilling drizzle and

occasional snow. January is the coldest month.Be aware that, being officially designated south ofthe Yangtze, public buildings in Shanghai are notentitled to central-heating

Summer is hot (mid-to-upper 300C) and humid; the

hottest months being July and August, whentemperatures can reach 40

0C. Many buildings are

air-conditioned; but outside the humidity is veryuncomfortable, unless there is a breeze blowing offthe river

Annual rainfall is about 120 cms, of which 60%occurs between May and September. During therainy season (mid-June to early-August), it can rainfor days on end, when the damp is very tiresome.Mild typhoons occasionally hit the city

See below: “Average Maximum and MinimumTemperatures & Rainfall in Shanghai”

Shanghai

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Page C3


South China

Summer (July to September) is a season oftyphoons, with temperatures reaching 38

0C

Winter is short (January to March), and not as coldas in the North

The best seasons are Autumn and Spring, whendaytime temperatures range from 20

0C to 25

0C;

although it can sometimes be miserably wet andcold, with rain or drizzle

Annual rainfall is about 76 cms

See below: “Average Maximum and MinimumTemperatures & Rain in Guangzhou”


________________________________________

Guangzhou is a temperate, sub-tropical city, lyingonly a few miles south of the Tropic of Cancer.Summers are very hot, typically with dailyafternoon showers

Clothing

When it comes to the dress code in China, thereare few formalities and the Chinese tend to bepragmatic. Foreigners can wear what they like,within reason, as long as they do not offend theChinese sense of propriety

For example: the author’s trademark bowtie drewless attention in China than in the UK

Be comfortable, but not too relaxed. It is not done,for example, for men to wear shorts to officialbusiness meetings although it may be acceptableto do so when visiting a farm or factory. Also,avoid dressing in all-white clothes (such as somesafari suits) which are more appropriate to funerals- not to mention trying to keep them clean!

Shirtsleeves are the norm; and the most formalyou will ever need is a suit. For women, a simpledress (with a high neckline, back and sleeves) or

slacks and a jacket are adequate for anything shortof an official state banquet in the Great Hall of thePeople

Nevertheless, black-ties and evening gowns maybe expected at Embassy balls or the China Club(Beijing) dinner-dances, for which local tailors canmake quite acceptable tuxedos at fairly shortnotice

Women should not wear clothes that areexcessively revealing: plunging necklines, see-through blouses and tank tops, for example, areembarrassing to the Chinese. So are hemlinesabove the knee, and shorts. Use your commonsense

For example:

¾�the author’s driver was embarrassed byWestern female passengers climbing in andout of the car wearing Chinese slit-dresses

¾�the author’s scantly-clad daughter-in-law waslewdly ogled by Chinese men

¾�The author was stared at when wearing cyclingshorts

Modesty applies as much to men’s as women’sclothing – which probably explains why Beijingworkmen walk the streets in summer wearing onlya vest (above the waist) rolled up to their armpits,like a bikini-top, in an attempt to maintain decorumwhilst sunbathing

Older publications recommend taking as manyclothes as possible, especially business suits,shoes and evening wear; and stocking up in HongKong. However, good-quality Western-styleclothing is now readily available in the largeDepartment Stores, in response to the growingdemand of the young fashion-conscious Chinese

Nevertheless, from personal experience (accordingto the author’s wife): locally-made underweardesigned for the waif-like Chinese ladies tends tobe too small for the Western figure

As a general rule in China:

¾�in winter, wrap up well against the bitter cold,with several layers of warm clothing under agood coat, plus hat, scarf and gloves. Thermalunderwear is a matter of personal choice

For example: the author and his family foundnormal underwear quite adequate, whensupplemented with thick shirts/blouses andpullovers

¾�in summer, wear light and loose-fitting cottonor linen clothes to combat the stifling heat; andalso carry a pacamac and/or folding umbrella(in your briefcase) to fend off the rain

Guangzhou

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Page C4


From personal experience, however: In practice,many expatriate business families – like theauthor’s - will be cocooned in heated and air-conditioned houses, offices and cars, especiallyduring the working-week; and only venture outsideat weekends, when sight-seeing, dog-walking,playing sport, shopping etc.

Banquets

Standard banquet attire is a dark, lounge suit andtie for men; and a dress or trouser suit for ladies.There is no need to wear a dinner-jacket, unlessspecifically requested (for example: as the authorwas, at the China Club in Beijing)

Business Meetings

Westerners are expected to wear westernbusiness attire. Indeed, Western-styled suits andties have largely replaced the Mao jacket ofyesteryear for senior Chinese officials

Dress for the climate:

¾�in winter, bundle up to keep warm: if themeeting room is not heated you can alwayskeep your coat on

¾�in summer, nobody will expect you to wear ajacket and tie. Nevertheless, make noassumptions: it is better to arrive in jacket andtie and be invited to remove them, than todress down only to find that the Chinese havedressed up for the occasion

Northern China - Beijing

A good winter coat should be sufficient until theend of November; but between December andMarch you will need very thick, windproof clothingand (possibly) thermal underwear. Since theweather is dry, the locally-made padded jacketsmade of cotton or silk or are very suitable; and canbe bought from large Department Stores. Fur hatswith fold-down earflaps are readily available atreasonable prices (but ensure the red star hasbeen removed!)

For example: for walking the dog, the author usedto wear a pullover, padded army camouflagejacket, deerstalker, scarf, gloves and stout boots(see below)

The author (left) - Beijing, Winter (January) 1998

In Summer, wear tropical or light-weight clothing,and take a light-weight pullover or jacket if goingoutside in the evening. During the day, a pair ofsunglasses and a light-weight hat will keep the sunat bay

Anoraks and coats, Beijing, Spring (April) 1997(Notice the brightly attired girl!)

Central China - Shanghai

According to one guide book: you will need silklong johns and down jackets for winter; an iceblock for each armpit in summer; and an umbrellawould not go astray in either of these seasons!

The author (2nd

from right) - buttoned-up jacketsin Shanghai, Spring (March) 1998

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Page C5


Southern China - Guangzhou

The author’s wife (2nd

from left) - shirts, slacks &cardiganin Guangzhou, Autumn (October) 1997

Bibliography

General About China, China E-Travel,www.chinaetravel.com, 2002

Beijing Scene Guidebook, Beijing ScenePublishing, USA, 1997, p. 83

China, Atlapedia Online,www.atlapedia.com, 2002


thedition, Singapore, 2000, pp.61-62,

317, 363-364

China, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 7

thedition, 2000, pp. 48-50

China by Rail, Douglas Streatfeild-James,Trailblazer Publications, 1997, pp. 10, 20-21, 29

China Business Handbook 2002, ChinaEconomic Review, Alain CharlesPublishing Ltd, 5

thedition, London, 2002,

p. 22

China in Brief,China Internet Information Centre,www.chinaguide.org, 2002


rd

edition, 1999, pp. 288-289

Dealing with the Chinese, Scott DSeligman, Management Books 2000,1997, pp. 77-81

Encountering the Chinese, Hu Wenzhong& Cornelius L Grove, Intercultural Press,USA, 1991, pp. 134-135

Living and Working in China, ChristinaHall, How To Books, Plymouth (UK),1996, p. 20

Living and Working in China, EmploymentConditions Abroad Limited, UK, 1996, pp.2, 36

Travel China Guide,www.travelchinaguide.com, 2002

Traveller’s History of China, Stephen Haw,Windrush Press, Moreton-in-Marsh (UK),1995, pp. 22-32

Beijing Beijing, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 3

rdedition, 1998, p. 12

Shanghai Shanghai, Lonely Planet Publications,Australia, 1

stedition, 2001, p. 21

Shanghai, An Odyssey Illustrated Guide,The Guide Book Co Ltd, Hong Kong, 3

rd

edition, 1995, pp. 24, 26

Shanghai Rediscovered, ChristopherKnowles, Lascelles, UK, 1990, pp. 18-20,27-28

Tables Travel Guide Chinawww.travelchinaguide.com, 2002

______________________________________________________________________________________

Page C6


Average Maximum and Minimum Temperatures and Rainfall in Beijing (North China)

Average Data Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Average High (oC) 1/3 3/5 10/12 19/21 26/28 30/32 30/32 29/31 25/27 19/21 9/11 2/4

Average Low (oC) -10/-8 -8/-6 -2/0 6/8 12/14 17/19 21/23 20/22 13/15 6/8 -2/0 -8/-6

Maximum (oC) 12 18 28 32 37 40 40 42 33 29 24 19

Minimum (oC) -17 -15 -7 -1 4 9 17 12 2 -2 -12 -14

Rain (mm) <5 5/10 5/10 20/25 35/40 75/80 205/210 180/185 <5 15/20 5/10 <5

Average Maximum and Minimum Temperatures and Rainfall in Shanghai (Central China)


Average High (oC) 7/9 8/10 12/14 18/20 23/25 27/29 31/33 31/33 27/29 22/24 16/18 10/12

Average Low (oC) -1/1 0/2 4/6 9/11 14/16 19/21 23/25 23/25 19/21 13/15 8/10 2/4

Rain (mm) 45/50 60/65 80/85 90/95 110/115 160/165 140/145 140/145 <5 55/60 50/55 40/45

Average Maximum and Minimum Temperatures and Rainfall in Guangzhou (South China)


Average High (oC) 17/19 17/19 20/22 24/26 28/30 30/32 32/34 32/34 31/33 28/30 24/26 20/22

Average Low (oC) 9/11 10/12 14/16 18/20 22/24 23/25 24/26 24/26 23/25 19/21 14/16 10/12

Rain (mm) 35/40 65/70 95/100 185/190 265/270 270/275 245/250 230/235 170/175 65/70 40/45 25/30

Appendix

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- CCoommmmuunniiccaatt iioonnss

________________________________________________________________________________________________

Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson ”Chinese Puzzles” – Page 15

CCaavveeaatt

Whichever communication channel you choose,don’t forget that “big brother” may be monitoringyou

PPoosstt

1. The postal system is the method of writtencommunications of last resort: fax and e-mail areinfinitely preferable, even for local communications

2. Using your driver to deliver/collect letters,invitations, packages is the only sure way ofguaranteeing their safety

3. If you do have to use the post, other than foroverseas:

a. remember that Chinese postal workers do notread English

b. ask a Chinese colleague/friend to write theaddress

WWiirreedd TTeelleeccoommmmuunniiccaatt iioonnss

4. The telecommunications sector is booming inChina, which has now overtaken the USA as theworld’s largest mobile ‘phone market

5. Wired phones are increasingly reliable, both insideand between major cities, and internationally.Thankfully, major hotels and multi-nationalcompanies employ English-speaking switchboardoperators

6. Local Department stores offer a wide range ofgood-quality handsets, answering machines -including the cordless variety - and fax machines.Before purchasing, however, ensure that theinstructions are in a language you understand!

7. Accommodation in most foreign housingcompounds, and rooms in most Western stylehotels, are equipped with two telephone lines: onefor voice, the other for fax/data

MMoobbii llee PPhhoonneess

8. Mobile phones can be expensive to buy, but cheapto run. One option is to purchase a local SIM cardfor your existing handset. Alternatively, pre-paidre-chargeable local SIM cards are now available(however: reception may be weak outside majorcities)

9. For expatriates who find themselves in a difficultsituation which defies their command of Chinese,mobile phones are a lifeline to:

a. interpreters: thankfully, my Chinese PA wasprepared to take our mobile phone calls atalmost any time of day or night in order – forexample – to explain to:

a shop assistant or our maid what wewanted

our driver when/where to take/collect us

b. drivers: when daytime meetings over/underran, or evening events had no set duration,we and our driver relied on our and his mobilephone to ensure a prompt rendez-vous

10. Some employers (including mine) provide mobilephones for the personal safety of trailing spouses

EE-- mmaaiill aanndd IInntteerrnneett

11. The advent of e-mail and the internet has posedtwo problem for “fortress China” - how to prevent itscitizens from:

a. being exposed to outside – for which read“corrupting” - influences

b. exposing to outside agencies the truth –whatever that is – about China

12. Consequently, we are aware of individuals andorganisations whose e-mail and internet accesshas been limited to national networks; and ofinternet cafés that have been shut down

13. Nevertheless, we enjoyed unlimited e-mail andinternet access


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– CCoosstt ooff LLiivviinngg

________________________________________________________________________________________________


U.K. Citizen U.S. Citizen

Gross Salary ofSenior Sales Manager in

Home Country£36,000 £44,700

£11,200 11,200Cost in Home Country ofConsumer Goods/Services 30% 25%

14,100 13,800Cost in China of sameConsumer Goods/Services 40% 30%

Typical house at “Dragon Villas”, Shunyi, Beijing

Rental 1998 = US$9,000 per month hard-furnished

Purchase 1998 = US$650,000

IImmppoorrtteedd vveerrssuuss LLooccaall??

1. There is really no need to take anything from the homecountry, apart from personal possessions (e.g.photographs), since most everyday items are readilyavailable, both imported and locally manufactured

2. Buying Chinese (including joint-venture) products andproduce and/or shopping in Chinese (including joint-venture) shops is not only cheaper, but also more fun andcloser to the real China experience

3. Most valuable, therefore, is someone (e.g. Chinese friendor colleague) who knows where to buy what

4. An alternative source of reasonably priced householdgoods and furniture are departing expatriates, whoadvertise in the various English-language magazines or onthe notice boards in foreign housing compounds and /orsupermarkets in Western-style hotels

Typical house at “Greenland Gardens”, Beijing

Rental 1998 = US$12,000 per month unfurnished

Purchase 1998 = US$1million

Source: The China Business Handbook 2001, p. 46

China Economic Review, February 2000

Comment: Minim Consulting, based on personal experience

Beijing New York

Food at home 123Alcohol & tobacco 116Domestic supplies 183

Personal care 124Clothing & footwear

Home services 55Utilities 186

Entertainment 113Transportation 154

Sports & leisure 157Total index 130

100

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– CCuullttuurraall DDiiffffeerreenncceess

GGeenneerraall

1. Chinese are socialised not to question the social orderor try to change it. They are taught to submit willinglyand unquestioningly to authority, and that groupmembership is more important than individuality. Theactions of individuals reflect not only on themselves,but also on all of their compatriots in a group

Laobanism - blind obedience to the boss orlaoban - is rife, and manifests itself in manyways – namely:

a. is always right, even when obviouslywrong, a disaster when (s)he is a foreignerand does not understand the Chineseways

b. because infallible, never changes his/hermind, which would be a loss of face

c. makes and is expected to make all thedecisions, the Chinese workers’ means ofupward delegation

d. probably arrives last and leaves first, andcertainly no-one should leave until (s)hehas done so

2. The Chinese place a real premium on consensus.Matters are debated until agreement is reached on acourse of action. Individual group members are thenexpected to embrace and act on the group decisionregardless of their personal views

3. The danwei, or work unit, wields tremendous powerover the lives of individuals in China. It has a say injust about any major decision in their lives. It controlstheir work, where they live and where they travel aswell as their ration of scarce commodities

4. Chinese do not choose their own work units, andswitching among them, although increasingly possible,is still highly restricted. The exception to the rule isjoint-venture units, where there is far more mobility

Other exceptions are Foreign Invested andWholly Foreign-Owned Enterprises (WOFEs)

5. The Confucian system of ethics and morals governsmany of the ways Chinese interact with one another,even today. It emphasises duty, loyalty, filial piety,sincerity and respect for age and seniority, deferenceto authority and to elders, rank-consciousness,modesty, moderation in habits, generosity, andavoidance of direct confrontation are all highly-valuedConfucian traits

One way that respect for age and senioritymanifests itself in the workplace is in the “deadmen’s shoes” method of promotion i.e. you risethrough the ranks to fill the gaps left by the elderworkers above you. Bosses are expected to beolder than their staff. Experience and, hence,promotion are a function of age not ability – thus:

a. Older staff will expect to earn more thanyounger staff, even if the former areperforming identically or worse in the sameor a smaller job

b. an expatriate “high flyer” i.e. a foreignGeneral Manager who is too young byChinese standards (say, under 50) andthus not sufficiently experienced in theireyes, may not be taken seriously byChinese colleagues. Indeed, his presencemay be seen as an insult on the part of thehome office, for not having appointedsomeone of sufficient gravitas - anindication of the importance, or apparentlack of it, that the home office attributes toChina

c. Even in a WOFE, a 29-year old Chineseaccounts clerk may resign if her newChinese boss is a couple of monthsyounger

Nevertheless, young well-educated Chinesestaff in a WOFE seem to accept young well-paidexpatriate management trainees, probablybecause the latter are transient and not blockingthe former’s promotion

6. Confucianism also helps explain Chinese bureaucracy- which is strictly hierarchical, with well-defined ranksand privileges. Decision-making is strictly top-down,personal loyalty is highly valued, cronyism is rampantand innovation largely stifled

Nevertheless, careful coaching by a skilledWestern manager well-versed in modernempowerment techniques can eventuallyproduce a cadre of senior Chinese personnelprepared not only to proffer their own ideas butalso to challenge that manager’s and accept thatdecisions can change for the right reasons e.g.new circumstances or information. Thealternative is a sure recipe for disaster: someChinese staff will happily stand by and watchtheir foreign boss make all the mistakes in thebook and lose face, whilst at the same timeensuring that they do not lose their face

7. Face, or mianzi, the regard in which one is held byothers or the light in which one appears, is vitallyimportant to the Chinese. Causing someone to loseface, through dressing someone down, failing to treathim or her with respect or insulting someone, resultsin a loss of co-operation and often in retaliation. If youdo this, you will also lose the respect of others whoare aware of your transgression

Reviewing and disciplining Chinese staff can bea minefield. To leave Chinese staff in no doubtas to their inadequate performance orinappropriate behaviour and to gain theiragreement to improve, require not only well-honed HR management skills but also a widerange of synonyms, in an effort to save their face


________________________________________________________________________________________________


8. In China, face cannot only be lost and saved, it canalso be given. Doing something to enhancesomeone’s reputation or prestige, such as praising aworker to his or her superior, is an example. Suchactions carry a great deal of weight among Chinesewhen they come from foreigners

Chinese staff care more about their own facethan that of their foreign bosses, and may try tosave face at the latter’s expense

9. Guanxi, or “connections”, is a quid pro quoarrangement between people or units that makes theChinese system go. It gains you access to goods andservices otherwise difficult to acquire. The currency ofguanxi is normally favours, not cash. Chinesegenerally expect foreigners to understand guanxi andbehave according to its rules

Guanxi also involves a highly complex system ofnetworking (more properly known as“guanxiwang”), bearing some resemblance tothe “old boy / school-tie network” in the UK. Forforeign businessmen, it can give access to keymarket players and government officials. Onemethod is via “a friend of a friend” - for example:if you wish to meet Mr X, and his right-handemployee has a connection with yours, ask thelatter for an introduction via that connection. Ifsuccessful, your right-hand employee may alsogain face, particularly if (s)he were not seniorenough to have connected with Mr X withoutyou. This approach is akin to Newton’s Cradle,using contiguous connections to move up thechain of influence. However, never forget who itwas who acquired a connection for you, or rather“lent” that connection to you. To take overanother’s connection without further involvingthe introducer could cause resentment and closemore doors than it opens. Thus, if you continueto meet a friend of a friend, keep the first friendinformed and appear eternally grateful:otherwise the latter could turn that friend againstyou

Influence is not always a function of seniorityhowever – for example:

a. Knowing the Director General of theChinese Performing Arts Agency did notsecure us tickets for the last night ofTurandot in the Forbidden City - butknowing someone who knew the carpenterwho built the stage did!

b. Drivers spend more time with their bossesthan many of the staff do, as a result ofwhich it is common practice for employeesto ask the driver to bend laoban’s ear inthe car or to eavesdrop on in-carconversations - so, beware!

c. Junior staff will often ask senior staff tosound out the boss on their behalf, ratherthan making a direct approach

10. The favours exchanged between two individuals orunits are expected to remain in rough balance over aperiod of time. Try not to put a Chinese in the positionof being unable to return a favour, and don’t acceptpresents or favours unless you are prepared toreciprocate

11. Prying eyes are everywhere in China; local Chineseare watched, as are foreigners. In foreigners’apartments and some hotels, service personnel keeptabs on guests. Suspicious goings-on are reported

It is said that cars and hotel lifts have ears aswell. Certainly, the movements of foreignerswithin their housing compounds may be noteddown by the many guards who patrol suchcompounds under the guise of private securitystaff but are probably there to spy on themrather than guarantee their security

AAtt tt iittuuddee ttoo ffoorreeiiggnneerrss

12. The Chinese are generally extremely hospitable andquite pleasant to Westerners. Their view of the Westis often schizophrenic, however: they perceive it ashighly advanced in many ways, but loose in morals atthe same time

In any case, the likelihood is that, by the merefact of not being Chinese, you will be consideredof lower rank. Remember that “China” means“The Middle Kingdom”: that is, the rest of theworld revolves round China

13. Lacking another set of standards, many Chinesejudge Westerners and their behaviour according totheir own norms. But expectations are low, sodisplaying some knowledge of Chinese customs earnsyou admiration

14. Business relations are constrained by fear ofcorruption. They begin formally. Rank distinctions areimportant; with those of a higher station you must becareful to be correct in behaviour and not appearpresumptuous

15. When dealing with lower ranking people, never givethe impression that you think yourself more importantthan the other person, but don’t be too informal either

16. The Chinese accord foreign businesswomen all therespect due to their positions. Spouses of foreignbusinessmen are welcomed by the Chinese at socialoccasions. A wife is considered to share the rank ofher husband. Chinese spouses seldom show up atsocial occasions in China, however

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________


China is a model of equal opportunities when itcomes to female employees. Many well-educated Chinese wives have as successfulcareers as their husbands, and not always in thesame city or even country. Several lone-spouses may be found in the Chinese Embassyin London and UK companies in China. Atrailing spouse is not a Chinese characteristic.As to the child of the marriage: (s)he may befarmed out to grandparents in a third location

12. Chinese are often circumspect about keepingforeigners at arm’s length, though this is changing.Casual acquaintance does not demand any significantcommitment, but friendship implied obligations to theChinese

Beware of the friendship with the sole aim of aticket or passport to the West

13. The Chinese are puritanical in sexual attitudes; sexoutside marriage is taboo. Foreigners are perceivedto be extremely permissive in this are. You should nottake sexual relationships with Chinese citizens lightly

Sex outside marriage is illegal, especially if itresults in an illegitimate baby - theconsequences of which may include: expulsionfrom the party and job; exclusion from school,housing and health care; and a lifetime of beinga non-person. Western women, whilst notconsidered attractive by Chinese men, arebelieved to be promiscuous and fair game:drivers may try it on, while the boss is away. Bythe same token, maids may approach the boss,while the wife is away. International hotellobbies are full of elderly Western men sportingtrophy Chinese girls on their arms: rather thanbe jealous, pity their gullibility. All the girls wantis access to the West

14. If you are asked to a Chinese home, the visit generallyincludes a meal. If you decline, explain what theconflict is; if you don’t, the Chinese will read yourresponse as a rebuff

Chinese hospitality at home is second to none,particularly amongst the working classes. Ontwo occasions, we were invited to our driver’shome, and given wonderful home-produce toeat, washed down with very potent fire-water.Our dilemma was the obvious expense to whichthe driver’s family went in sharing their limitedproduce and expensive drink with us. To haverefused would have been an insult; whilst to eatand drink only a little would have beenungrateful. On the advice of my Chinesepersonal assistant, therefore, we accepted theinvitation for the mid-morning, telling the driverthat we needed him to take us shoppingafterwards - in the hope that our visit would notcoincide with a mealtime and thus spare hisfamily any trouble. We should have knownbetter: for, on our arrival, a splendid mealawaited us, soon accompanied by a bottle offirewater, especially purchased for such anoccasion. Poor in worldly goods, some Chinesemay be; but they are rich in love and hospitality

15. If you accept, bring a gift with you. Eat to a lot toshow that you are enjoying the food. Counter everyapology you hear with a compliment. After the meal,wait a respectable period of time before leaving, butdon’t stay until late at night. Reciprocate the invitationif possible

16. Western dress is growing in popularity in China, butthe Chinese remain uncomfortable with clothing that isvery revealing. The Chinese are not otherwiseparticularly sensitive to what foreigners wear, so wearwhat makes you comfortable. Formal dress is nevernecessary in China

Source: Scott D. Seligman, Dealing with the Chinese, pp. 49-50and pp. 80-81


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- DDooggss

________________________________________________________________________________________________


CChhoooossiinngg aa ddoogg

Buying a dog in China was an adventure in itself. Whilst Iwas used to dogs, my wife was not, which gave us our firstproblem: what sort of dog to buy? The solution, thankfully,was close at hand, in the shape of the Chinesegovernment’s list of two dozen officially approved breeds ofdomestic dogs

EEaatt iinngg ddooggss

During the Mao years, the government had tried to eliminatedomestic dogs in urban areas. The cynics’ immediatereaction may be: “By eating them”, but they would bewrong. True, Chinese do eat dogs; but, according to myfriends, edible dogs, like frogs in France, are specially bred.Indeed, whilst I enjoyed eating food that most Westernerswould find abhorrent – thanks to five years at an Englishboarding school - dog was never on the menu; and I cannotrecall meeting anyone who readily owned up to eating dog,especially the family pooch

DDoogg rreegguullaatt iioonnss

In the face of whatever permitted resistance there was tothe total ban on urban domestic dogs, the Chinesegovernment introduced stringent regulations to keep suchdogs under strict control. The regulations, when we boughta dog, were that dogs must be:

no higher than 35 centimetres at the shoulder

kept indoors (i.e. home or housing compound) and offthe streets between 7 o’clock in the morning and 8o’clock at night

inoculated and registered annually with the PublicSecurity Bureau, which issues an identity tag andphotocard at the prohibitive cost of some £400 orU$$600 the first year, and half thereafter

insured for third party liability

or face execution

PPeennaalltt yy ffoorr bbrreeaacchh ooff rreegguullaatt iioonnss

Whilst Chinese nationals may be able to flaunt theregulations, foreigners are soft targets for the PublicSecurity Bureau, living as they may in prescribed housing.Hence, when we moved to within the city boundary, wefound that the property management company arranged forthe Bureau to visit our compound to register residents’dogs. Some of our friends living in the countryside, wherethe regulations are more flexible, had been allowed toimport their alsatians, labradors, dalmatians and similardogs into China, only to be told later that their dogs weretoo tall and would have to be re-patriated or destroyedunless they complied with the height regulation. Short ofchopping their legs in half, how could the owners comply?Thankfully, after much wrangling, a blind eye was turned,but the dogs still remained illegal and, hence, alwayssusceptible to the regulation being enforced

Why 35 centimetres in height? The only reasons I couldthink of were: either to protect the monopoly of Pekinese, orto fit into an oven! But seriously: the restriction on heightwas also one of choice, and as people looking for a real he-dog or hound, not a toy, we were in a quandary. Luckily,my Chinese personal assistant had previously worked forthe China Daily, where she researched and wrote an articleon keeping dogs - including an official list of approveddomestic dogs to which, apart from the printed breeds, hadbeen added, in hand-writing, … “basset hound”. However,just because a particular breed of dog was approved did notnecessarily mean it was available in China. Hence oursecond problem: where to find a basset hound, withoutimporting one?

SStt rreeeett aanniimmaall sseelllleerrss

An obvious starting point was the main pet store in Beijing,which had featured in the China Daily article and where,therefore, I was offered a warm welcome, hefty discount,and, of course, a wide choice of Pekinese and shitzus.Bassets, I was politely told, were difficult to come by, butthey thought they could find one if we gave them time,which we did. Meanwhile, we showed interest in a shitzuand, in sheer desperation of not finding a basset, were onthe verge of buying one when we discovered that it was twoyears old, incontinent, and shaking not from excitement butdistemper or rickets. If we had wanted a diseased dog, wecould have bought any one of the many Pekinese on sale inthe streets. Some of our friends did so, and lived to regretit, although the dogs did not: they died quite quickly

PPuurrcchhaassee pprriiccee

When all seemed lost, suddenly the phone rang: “I hear youare looking for a basset hound. I know where there is one”,the caller said and proceeded to give me details of Bismark.In the home of Chinese whispers, word had got around theexpatriate doggy community. So it was, a few days later, inDecember 1997, that we found ourselves at the DogBreeding Unit of the People’s Liberation Army [PLA] ofChina at Champing, north of Beijing en route to the GreatWall. Forewarned by the caller that the asking price wasthe local equivalent of £1000 but might be negotiable, I wentarmed with US$1000 in cash, and thus entered into abizarre negotiation, through an interpreter, with a PLAsoldier taking instructions over the phone from hiscommandant, the leading and perhaps only Chinese canineveterinary surgeon in China. (In a country where animalseither work or are eaten, but not kept as pets, most vets arehorse rather than doggy doctors). Perhaps the price askedfor Bismark, as well as the stringent regulations, explainsthe lack of popularity of thoroughbred healthy dogs and theabundance of half-starved flea-ridden mongrels

It was at this moment that I realised what the much-vaunted“communism with Chinese characteristics” really meant:“capitalism”! Thus, The PLA negotiator was not lured by theoffer of a lower price in foreign currency; and only aftermuch wrangling accepted to split the difference, stillinsisting I pay in Renminbi

________________________________________________________________________________________________


Later, when we left China, he was equally willing to takeBismark back for free – and, no doubt, sell him on again! Inthe intervening months, however, we were pleasantlysurprised how little we were charged for veterinary servicesand kennelling. Looking back, I now realise that the PLAhad Bismark’s best interests at heart. The purchase priceensured that the dog went to owners who were so keen andfoolish enough to pay that amount of money that they couldgive him a good home where he would be really wanted;whilst the veterinary bills ensured that he remained healthy.As in everything else in China, charity begins at home.Hence, foreigners are fair game - in this instance: exploitthem, but look after the dog

DDooggss aanndd mmaaiiddss

Maids quickly realise that for many foreigners it is aquestion of “love me, love my dog”, so that one way toimpress is to cherish the family pooch, however obnoxiousand naughty around the house. Thus, it was very obvious atinterview how the older maids would make a fuss ofBismark quite overtly – they did not bother to be subtle,probably thinking all foreigners were stupid. However, itwas Bismark’s behaviour when we returned home after hehad been alone all day with the maid that told us how shereally treated him. For some – it takes a while to workthrough a few maids before finding a good one – that wastheir saving grace

VVeetteerriinnaarryy sseerrvviicceessaanndd kkeennnneellll iinngg

Each time we took Bismark back to the PLA Dog BreedingUnit, he was genuinely pleased to see his old friends – ontwo and four legs – and had a penchant for men andwomen in uniforms, as well as big dogs. When we broughthim back, he was equally happy. Thus, we would have nohesitation at all in recommending to our friends the PLADog Breeding Unit for veterinary attention and kennelling,for which we were charged the grand sum of about £4 orUS$6 per consultation and day, respectively. They soonbecame used to my Chinese personal assistant ringing up;not only to book Bismark into kennels, but also to request ahealth check and have his nails clipped

OObbeeddiieennccee ccllaasssseess

The PLA Dog Breeding Unit also offered obedience classes:one for English speakers, another for Chinese speakers. InBismark’s case, he speaking Chinese and we speakingEnglish, it was a lost cause. Off the lead, however, andaway from the scrutiny of other dog owners, Bismark wasthe star pupil; and even taught me the Chinese art of takinga dog for a walk on a bicycle

DDoogg wwaallkkss

Apart from walking Bismark on the lead along pavementsbefore 7 o’clock in the morning and 8 o’clock in the evening,or within the housing compound at any time – in both casescarrying a poop-scoop to collect and dispose of hisdroppings – there were many country walks over fields,through woods and across ditches - free of lead and poop-scoop – for a hound to enjoy. Our compound boasted adog’s toilet, but we never found it: Bismark was easilysatisfied with the lamp-posts, and managed to strip hisfavourite one outside our house of most of its paint at thebase – which says more of the quality of the paint thananything else!

DDooggsswwiitthh CChhiinneessee ppeeooppllee aanndd tt rraaddeessmmeenn

On all walks, people were a problem: brought up mainlywithout dogs, the Chinese we met, adults and children, allseemed to have an inherent fear of them. Some even burstinto fits of hysteria. The same was true of tradesmen, whowould not enter the house until Bismark had been closetedaway. However, once they were the other side of a fencefrom him, and realised how friendly and relatively harmlesshe was, the less scared they gradually became

FFiirreewwoorrkkss

Bismark’s friendliness stemmed from his army upbringing,where he was used to being surrounded by soldiers andlarge dogs. The same was true of fireworks: whilst hisfierce friends were cowering at home, Bismark was happilyabroad in the fields, totally non-plussed by the many andregular whiz-bangs going on around him. Unfortunately,any dog – or adult for that matter - afraid of fireworks willsuffer many miserable days on end in China, particularly inthe country areas where some people like to toss and swirlfire-works around their heads like demented Dervishes

DDoogg ffoooodd

Food for Bismark was never a problem. Proprietarywestern tinned meat and dry biscuits were readily available– the latter in large bulk bags at some super-stores. Inrestaurants, we often asked for doggy bags to take the left-overs home, and never met opposition. I do suspect,however, that some waiters thought that we were going toeat the food, rather than waste it on Bismark. At thekennels, I do not know what the PLA fed him, but Bismarkalways looked fit and well afterwards


/ 1

Chinese Puzzles – Gifts

Introduction

Once upon a time - according to Chinese legend -a man went to visit a friend, taking a swan as a gift.On the way, the swan escaped; and the man, intrying to catch it, only managed to grab a feather.Rather than return home, he continued his journeywith the feather. On receiving this unexpected gift,his friend was deeply moved by the story and theman’s sincerity

Thus was born one of the sayings that epitomisethe Chinese view of gift-giving: “the gift is nothingmuch, but it’s the thought that counts” (“li qing;ren yi zhong”)

Purpose

An integral part of the Chinese business scene (athome and abroad) is exchanging gifts, which maytake the following form:

souvenirs mark occasions

gratuities show esteem or gratitude

discharge obligationspayoffs

to

accompany requests for favours

Their common purpose is to build “guanxi” (i.e. tocontribute to the on-going process of cementingrelationships), for which reason: giving gifts is not a“one-off”, but should be repeated from time to time

Thus, observing the correct protocol for gift-givingimproves the chances of building “guanxi”

Conversely: giving the wrong gift to someone youhave not met before could cause offence

Bribes

Gifts should never be given or taken as bribes

To avoid the recipient mistaking your gift for abribe, stress your good intentions or gratitude, notthe value of the gifts. Thus, when presenting a gift,you might say something along the lines of:

“I have been truly overwhelmed by yourextremely valuable help (&/or advice) andmost generous hospitality; and would verymuch like you to accept this small token ofmy deepest appreciation and heartfeltthanks”

Whilst this might seem so obsequious as to makeUriah Heap look like an amateur, it follows theChinese tradition of ceding superiority to others bypraising them and deprecating oneself (which thesceptics might call false flattery & hollow modesty)

Unsuitable Gifts

On the premise that suitable gifts are all those thatare not unsuitable, the latter are:

Cameras Cameras have to be declared inwriting on arrival in China, and mayneed to be shown again on departure(which would cause problems whenthey had been given away)

Clocks In Chinese, “to give a clock” (“songzhong”) sounds like “to pay one’s lastrespects” (“songzhong”) – for whichreason, some Chinese are verysuperstitious about exchanging clocksas a homonym for attending theirfuneral

However, not everyone in Chinashares this superstition

For example: the author received:

¾�a desk-clock from HSBC at theopening of its new Beijing branch

¾�a wrist-watch fromthe British Chamberof Commerce inChina at the banquet(co-sponsored by theauthor’s employer) to launch the“Britain in China” campaign

¾�several travel-clocks from flyingbusiness class with Air China

Nevertheless, clocks are best avoided

Cut Similarly, these too are reminiscent ofFlowers funerals; and should be avoided

Fours Although even numbers are lucky inChina, “four” (“si”) reads like “death”(“si”) in Chinese, and should, there-fore, be avoided

Electronic Importing too many electronic goodsGoods into China might arouse the suspicion

of the Chinese Customs officials

Excessive According to an old Chinese proverb,Value “courtesy demands reciprocity” -

meaning, in the context of exchanginggifts, that the recipient is similarlyobligated to the giver. Thus, to givesomeone such an expensive gift that(s)he cannot afford to reciprocate inlike manner is cause the recipient aloss of face

Money To give money - even for a Chinesehost’s child - would be at best a crudeinsult, and at worst misconstrued asan attempt at bribery and corruption

/ 2


Odd Contrary to Western tradition, oddNumbers numbers are considered unlucky - for

which reason, wedding gifts and birth-day gifts for the aged are always sentin pairs, following the old Chinesesaying that “blessings come in pairs”

Pears In Chinese, a “pear” is a homophoneof “separation” and should, therefore,be avoided

Tie In the days of the Mao jacket, tiePins & pins, tie slides and cuff links were notSlides appropriate. Today, however, withand senior Chinese officials wearingCuff Western dress more and more, suchLinks gifts are now quite acceptable

For example: the author received allof these at various banquets hostedby foreign Insurers to celebrate theopening of their RepresentativeOffices

White White and black colours denote deathand and sorrow and - whilst acceptableBlack as a background colour - should never

be the dominant colour (e.g. all-whitewrapping paper or ribbon)

Suitable Gifts

Goods imported from the home country haveprestige value and help win points in the “face”game

For example: the author’s employer found thatcrystal (e.g. Waterford) fruit-bowls and vases andporcelain (e.g. Wedgwood) wall-plates were muchappreciated

Although Western objets d’art are acceptable, theymay turn out to be expensive white elephants,since the Chinese may not appreciate their artisticmerit (not to mention the cost) - and are, therefore,best avoided

Collective Gifts

Foreign delegations are expected to give presentsto their Chinese hosts

In theory, the acceptable practice is to present onelarge collective gift to the host organisation, ratherthan several small gifts to individual members. Inthis way, not only is the socialist principle ofequality satisfied, but also the risk of personalcorruption (of the recipient) and bribery (by thegiver) avoided

Individual Gifts

In practice, however, it is now common practice,instead of or in addition to a collective gift, to giveindividual gifts to members of a host organisation,who are allowed to keep them provided they are ofnominal value

The ideal individual gift is tasteful, of modest value(say, not exceeding RMB 100, equivalent toUS$10 or £6), useful and small enough to carrywithout too much trouble

[See Appendix: “Other Gifts received by the Author”]

Many branded company mementoes fall into thiscategory, such as: base-ball caps, desk sets,calendars, cigarette cases, cuff-links, diaries, lapelpins, lighters, mugs, name card holders,paperweights, pens, pocket calculators, pocketknives, tape measures, tie pins/slides, ties and totebags

For example:

¾�the author commissionedseveral hundred locally-made leather-and-brassphoto frames (about 12 x18 cms) with the companylogo in English &Chinese,and containing a picture(approximately 9 x 13cms.) of the company’sLondon head office

¾�the Royal National Theatre’s tour of China with“Othello” (sponsored by the author’s employer)was marked by the gift of commemorativeleather bookmarks

¾�at the Chartered Insurance Institute’sCentenary Roadshow in Beijing (co-sponsoredby the author’s employer), Institute ties andLloyd’s of London document cases were gifted

Individual gifts should correlate to the recipients’status. It is a good idea, therefore, to have a rangeof gifts, and in excess of the number of people thatyou expect to meet, just in case the Chinesedelegation is larger and/or its members more orless senior than anticipated. Make sure that moresenior individuals receive better gifts than theirjunior colleagues. Do not to leave anyone out, noteven the driver: a company brochure is better thannothing

For very senior individuals whom you know well,suitable gifts might reflect their personal interests,such as: books (illustrated, or relevant technicaltexts, dedicated by your CEO), cassettes or CDs,cigarettes, liqueur, perfume, and stamps or coins(mounted) – all from the home country

/ 3


For example: the author gave a set of company-branded golf-balls to the Deputy Governor of thePeople’s Bank of China, Shanghai Branch

Unusual Gifts

In the author’s experience, the most unusual giftpresented:

¾�to the Chinese was: a pair of spectacles wornby a theatrical knight given to the Chineseleadership by the Royal National Theatre whentouring China with “Othello” (sponsored by theauthor’s employer)

¾�by the Chinese was: a complete set of invest-ment regulations, in Mandarin, given to theauthor’s Deputy CEO by the China SecuritiesRegulatory Commission

Reciprocity

In the spirit of the Chinese proverb, “courtesydemands reciprocity”:

¾�beware of extending a light-hearted invitationto look you up next time your host is in yourhome country. You might just be takenliterally; and one day faced with an airfare andhotel bill for a mini-delegation out the blue!

For example: the author knows of at least oneEuropean businessman to whom this mis-fortune befell

¾�beware of the expensive gift that precedes arequest for a favour – for which reason: if youreceive a gift from someone for whom youhave never done, and do not intend to do, afavour, decline the gift politely (e.g. citing yourcompany’s policy on accepting gifts; or theairline’s luggage allowance)

¾�gifts given in return for gifts or favours shouldroughly correlate with the magnitude of the giftor favour received, so as not to cause a loss offace

¾�over time, gifts and favours received and givenshould be approximately in balance

¾�before a banquet, where it is common for bothsides to exchange gifts, each should let theother know of its gift, to avoid the embarrass-ment of one party coming empty-handed andbeing unable to reciprocate

Etiquette

In China, gift-giving is an essential ingredient ofcourteous behaviour, with its own etiquette

Gifts should be wrapped, preferable in red paper -or another coloured paper (not white) with a redribbon; and presented with both hands (and slightbow) as a sign of courtesy and respect

The Chinese often make as many as threeobligatory ritual refusal gestures when offeredgifts - in keeping with their tradition of publicdemonstrations of modesty to avoid being accusedof personal material gain. Only if you sensegenuine reluctance (e.g. firm and/or more thanthree refusals) should you retract a gift

It is not customary to open gifts in the presence ofthe giver, since to do so would draw attention tothe gift and detract from the thought - contrary tothe Chinese view that the thought counts morethan the gift. Thus, individual gifts are alwaysopened private – which practice also avoids theembarrassment of having to feign drooling overkitsch. Exceptionally, however, you may ask theChinese to open your collective gift to them,explaining that this is a Western custom

Unwanted gifts should be accepted with a smileand thanks: you can always hand them on – theChinese certainly do

Timing

Individual gifts may be left at the place settingsbefore a banquet begins; whilst the collective giftsshould be presented publicly and formally at anappropriate moment (e.g. coinciding with a toast)

All gifts should be presented at the end of ameeting: the collective gift first, with muchceremony and many fine words; then individualgifts, in a more low-key manner

Tipping

In theory, tipping is officially forbidden in socialistChina (where all are equal) as a patronising andexploitative act of a capitalist regime. Selflessservice to the socialist motherland, not cash,should be sufficient motivation and reward forserving customers – which explains why customerservice is at best indifferent, and occasionallyblatantly rude

For example: when shopping in a large State-owned department store, the author was told in nouncertain terms to go elsewhere if he did not liketheir range of table lamps

In practice, however, local attitudes may changeaccording to the moment and be at variance withgovernment policy. Cash, not the motherland,buys goods. Thus, service staff in many high-class

/ 4


places frequented by foreigners now explicitly seektips, with an implicit alternative of poor service

Should you wish to reward outstanding service:

¾�DO - consult your Chinese mentor

- act discretely and in private, toavoid putting the recipient indanger of being reported for,&/or accused of, flaunting therules for personal gain

- choose something small (notnecessarily cash) that can beeasily hidden in the recipient’spocket

¾�DO NOT - act in front of other people

- give what may seem to you apaltry amount or amount, but tothe recipient could representseveral days’ wages

For example: on both occasions when the authormoved house, using the same internationalrelocation company, the supervisor was veryhappy to accept a pot of cash to share amongstthe team-members (from memory: RMB 50 each,equivalent to £4 or US$6)

As with other gifts, refusing a reward is part of theacceptance ritual, which you will be expected tofollow (see above: Etiquette). If necessary, slip thetip into the recipient’s pocket. However, givengovernment policy, do not persist if the refusalappears genuine, but trust the recipient’s instinctfor the risk involved

For example: when the author bought a bicyclefrom a large State-owned department store, amechanic was despatched to his house (over anhour’s journey) at the weekend to service it. Afterconsulting a Chinese colleague, the author tried toreward the mechanic first in cash (from memory:RMB 20 or 30, equivalent to £2 or US$3) and thenwith a drink, both of which were firmly andgenuinely refused

Staff Gratuities

To reward staff-members for exceptional service,work-related items or events are acceptable

For example: the author used to host a meal for:

¾�all the staff on the successful conclusion of amajor project (such as the office relocation; oreach visit by group board members)

¾�individual employees on special occasions(such as passing examinations)

Moreover, he would occasionally:

¾�organise a group event (such as a picnic,barbecue, ten-pin bowling or karaoke)

¾�give individual clothing allowances

and always:

¾�hand out moon cakes to company & domesticstaff at the Mid-Autumn Festival

Children

One way to melt someone’s heart is to take a smallgift for their child, and China is no exception

For example: the author’s teenage son received:

¾�playing cards from a colleague, before evenarriving in China

¾�an inflatable Santa Claus from the driver, atChristmas

¾�a model boat from the maid, on returning toschool in the UK after the Christmas holiday

Caveat

To give a very valuable gift to a powerful individual,especially in private, is still highly risky for both thegiver and recipient, despite stories to the contrary

Helpful Hints

From the author’s personal experience:

¾�Do not engrave a specific gift for a specificindividual, just in case you never actually get tomeet that person. Rather, engrave a separateplaque that can be subsequently attached tothe gift: otherwise, you cannot give the gift toanyone else

¾�Keep a record of gifts and favours exchangedand refused, in order to monitor the balance,avoid repetitions, and discourage bribery andcorruption

Help!

When in doubt, consult your Chinese advisors,for whom - infuriatingly - choosing the right giftsmay be the most important task in planning adelegation, meeting, banquet or similar event

/ 5


Bibliography

General Beijing, Insight Guides, Apa Publications,3rd edition, Hong Kong, 1997, p. 242

Beijing Scene Guidebook, Beijing ScenePublishing, USA, 1997, p. 83


thedition, Singapore, 2000, pp. 378-379

China by Rail, Douglas Streatfeild-James,Trailblazer Publications, 1997, p. 22

China Business Handbook 2002, ChinaEconomic Review, Alain CharlesPublishing, 5

thed., London, 2002, p. 54

Cultural Essentials, chinavista.com, 2002


rd

edition, 1999, pp. 176-178

Dealing with the Chinese, Scott DSeligman, Management Books 2000,1997, pp. 47, 103-112, 149-15, 169, 173

General Doing Business in China, Tim Ambler andMorgen Witzel, Routledge, London, 2000,pp. 105-106

Encountering the Chinese, Hu Wenzhong& Cornelius L Grove, Intercultural Press,USA, 1991, pp. 141-145

Living and Working in China, ChristinaHall, How To Books, Plymouth (UK),1996, pp. 142-143

Shanghai Rediscovered, C Knowles,Lascelles, UK, 1990, pp. 32, 75-76

Welcome to Beijing, Jones Lang Wootton,Beijing, 1997, p. 21

Welcome to China, www.cnto.org, 2002

Xenophobe’s Guide to the Chinese, J CYang, Oval Books, 3

rdedition, 1999, pp.

46-47

Other Gifts RECEIVED by the Author

RECEIVED FROM OCCASION

Table cloth

Ministry ofForeign Tradeand EconomicCooperation

Deliveringseminar onHuman ResourceManagement

Key ring

Luggagelabel

withlogo

Pocket telescope

ForeignInsuranceCompanies

Banquet tocelebrateopening ofRepresentativeOffices

HSBCOpening of newoffice

Framed/mountedpaper money

EU Embassy Launch of Euro

Beijing FinanceCollege

TenthAnniversaryCelebration

Commemorativecoins and medals

Jiang Zemin’sbrother-in-law

Visit to London

Chopsticks(silver)

China Club,Beijing

Book(illustrated)

PersonalAssistant

WeddingAnniversary

British Chamberof Commerce

Banquet forBritish PrimeMinister

CD

Colleague Welcome

Coffee table House warming

Kite

PersonalAssistant None

RECEIVED FROM OCCASION

Calendar Colleague Lunch at home

Plant for desk Colleague Office move

Conferencefolder and pen(with logo)

China-BritainBusiness Council

Attendinginvestmentconference

Coffee service

VaseAll colleagues

Book (illustrated) A colleague

Tea pot Colleague’s wife

Tea service Driver

Table cloth(hand made)

Maid

Antique sealingwax pot

PersonalAssistant

Stamp albumwith mountedstamps & firstday covers

Two colleagues

Cloisonné pots Chinese teacher

Commemorativeplate

Beijing FinanceCollege

People’sInsuranceCompany

Commemorativemedals

ShanghaiFinance College

Farewell

Appendix

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– HHeeaalltthh aanndd HHyyggiieennee

________________________________________________________________________________________________


IInntt rroodduucctt iioonn

Your employer should organise and pay for all medicalattention: not only are you in China at their behest, but also it isin their best interests to protect their not inconsiderableinvestment in your posting by keeping you healthy

BBeeffoorree yyoouu ggoo ttoo CChhiinnaa

1. See your family or company doctor for a general healthcheck-up

2. Have an Aids test and a chest X-ray done; and your bloodgroup analysed

Whilst the books say that this is a requirement for avisa – as is also the former for a driving licence – beaware that some Chinese officials will not accept aforeign medical certificate, even if translated andnotarised, but insist on further tests locally. Thisexplains why many foreign business people preferbeing driven (rather than driving themselves) toexposing themselves to the practices of Chinesestate medicine

3. Have all the recommended vaccinations – which mayinclude: polio, tuberculosis, tetanus, typhoid, hepatitis Aand B, rabies and Japanese encephalitis

Your family or company doctor will know where youcan find out what are the current recommendedvaccinations

4. Buy a First Aid kit, additional needles and any medicinesthat you think necessary; plus an emergency Dental Kit

We recommend a First Aid kit especially fortravellers to Asia, commonly known as an “Aids Kit”.In our case, it was supplied by my employer

5. Take out emergency health insurance (unless youremployer has already done it for you)

See overleaf (p. 24): Foreign Hospital Fees in Beijing

OOnn aarrrriivvaall iinn CChhiinnaa

6. Find out where the nearest pharmacies, doctors, dentistsand hospitals are; and check out how clean they appear

7. Talk to other expatriates about their impressions andexperiences of local healthcare. Which doctors, clinics,hospitals do they recommend?

8. Exchange information about your blood groups, cases ofasthma and allergies with other expatriates

FFoooodd ssttoorraaggee aanndd pprreeppaarraatt iioonn

9. For drinking, use only bottled water or water that hasbeen boiled. Three minutes of a rolling boil will destroy allgerms

The management of most foreign housingcompounds can arrange for carboys of water to bedelivered on a regular basis

Some expatriates will only use bottled water forcleaning their teeth

10. Bananas and citrus fruit are safe to eat. All other fruitmust be washed with bottled or boiled water and peeled

11. Salads often carry worms and diseases. It is best not toeat any raw vegetables or salads at all (they are all grownon nightsoil from latrines), especially during the first fewmonths of your stay. Avoid salads in restaurants. Athome you can prepare salads by washing the vegetablesthoroughly in bottled or boiled water and peeling them,but there is still a risk

12. Cook everything thoroughly for at least ten minutes. Ifthis is not possible (e.g. for salads), you can soak fruit orvegetables in a chlorine or iodine solution, which destroysmany germs, but is not 100 percent effective

We used baby bottle sterilising solution (e.g. Milton)

13. Keep three separate areas in your fridge: one for rawunwashed produce; one for raw but washed anddisinfected produce; and one for cooked food

14. Shellfish tend to live near sewer outfalls and carrydiseases. Do not eat them unless you know for sure thatthey have been cooked in hot water or oil for at least tenminutes. In the interest of your health, politely refuse rawshellfish, however appetising it looks

A favourite way of serving prawns is alive,marinated in alcohol. Hopefully comatose - but inour experience occasionally wide awake & “hoppingmad” – these are referred to as “drunken prawns”

EEaatt iinngg oouutt

15. If you are concerned about the cleanliness of thecrockery, clean them with hot tea and a tissue. The sameapplies to chopsticks, unless you carry your own

Such precautions are not necessary in Western-style hotels or restaurants, or official banquets

16. When given wooden, disposable chopsticks, ensure thatare still joined at the head. After separating them, rub thetips together, to remove any splinters

________________________________________________________________________________________________“Chinese Puzzles” – Page 24 Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

PPrreevveenntt iinngg iill llnneessss

17. Most expatriates, in any country, find that during the firstyear of their stay they are ill more often than usual, forseveral reasons:

a. The body has not yet become immune to the bugsin food, drinking water and the air in the newenvironment

b. It takes a while to adjust to the new climate

c. Settling into a new environment is always stressful,and stress weakens the body‘s power of resistance

d. Simple house remedies for curing minor ailments,always at hand at home, are not available ion thenew country, and it takes months to find out aboutlocal alternatives

e. Not knowing the healthcare system, the medicinesand the language, many people delay in seeing adoctor in the foreign country until the illnessbecomes serious

f. Expatriate workers try to impress their localcolleagues with their strength and stamina andreturn to work too soon after an illness, before theyhave fully recovered – only to become ill again,more seriously this time

18. In China, the following aspects can put your health at risk:

a. Extremely low standards of hygiene in many eating-places, especially in rural areas

b. Extremely low standards of hygiene in public toilets

c. Low standards of hygiene in many hospitals

d. Use of non-disposable equipment

e. Problems with blood transfusions

f. Specific diseases that are not found in westerncountries (and some which rarely exist outsideChina)

g. Environmental pollution of all kinds (especially airpollution, caused by rapid industrial development

AAfftteerr yyoouu lleeaavvee CChhiinnaa

19. See your family or company doctor for a general healthcheck-up

Source: Christine Hall, Living and Working in China, How to Books,Plymouth (UK) 1996, pp. 128-131, 139-140

China Business Handbook, 1999


SSttaayyiinngg hheeaalltthhyy

20. Be aware of the lower hygiene standards at all times, andact accordingly to protect yourself

21. Eat well: pay even more attention to a health diet thanyou would at home

22. Keep physically fit: your body need more strength thanusual to stay healthy and to overcome illness

23. `Take vitamin supplements

24. Keep all your vaccinations up to date

25. Take your malaria medication regularly (if you are in amalaria area)

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a. General consultation

b. Follow up consultation

c. Paediatric consultation

d. Well child care

e. Obstetrical / gynaecological specialist

f. Prenatal initial visit

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

(f)

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- MMaaiiddss

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HHoonneessttyy bbeeffoorree AAbbii ll iittyy

In China, every time something went missing in thehouse, the cry would go up: “the ayi has lost so-and-so”– ayi being the Chinese word for ‘auntie’ used to addressa maid. Apparently, so an acquaintance tells me, maidsin South Africa used to be similarly blamed. Not even fora split-second did we think that we had mislaid whateverwe could not find. On such occasions, however, wewere invariably right, since the ayi soon got into theroutine of putting things away where they were moreconvenient for her, particularly in the kitchen. It probablynever occurred to her that we would need, let aloneknow how to use, a particular piece of kitchenequipment. This was partly because she thought it wasinfra dig for foreigners to do any domestic work, whichwas her prerogative – once, she was horrified to find mewashing up; and partly because she believed that allforeigners were stupid because, unlike her, they couldnot speak Chinese. To overcome this last problem, weused flash cards – prepared by my personal assistant –with such useful phrases in Chinese as “please clean thewindows today” or “please do the ironing tomorrow”

Some items that the maid mislaid we never found. Didwe really did lose them? Or did she take them? We donot know, but have our suspicions. If we had to choosebetween an honest and a capable maid, we wouldalways choose the former. All maids start well, but soondeteriorate or lapse into bad ways. An honest maid,however, remains so.

It is just a pity that, in our experience, it is difficult to findan ayi who combines ability and honesty. Sadly somemaids have neither ability nor honesty, and they are bestdismissed at once

TTrraaiinniinngg mmaaiiddss ffrroomm ssccrraattcchh

Thus, thinking back over all the maids we have had – inChina and elsewhere – it is for their honesty that we putup with them rather than ability. Training a maid fromscratch is by far the best way to guarantee satisfaction.It does not always work, however: we did have to sackone maid very quickly, who had undergone an intensiveinduction at the hands of her aunt, a maid broker. Thatexperience taught us not to trust recommendations byrelatives

CChhoooossiinngg aa mmaaiidd

So: how should you choose a good maid and then retainher?

Personal recommendation by a previous employer,although essential, is not full-proof since differentemployers have different needs, rules, routines,backgrounds etc. Some mistresses are out all day, oralways entertaining in the evenings; whilst others areincapable of lifting a finger or stringing two wordstogether of the local language; and all have differingstandards. So, it pays, when selecting a maid, to takeup references also on the previous employer, especiallyone about to leave the country, for whom giving aglowing reference to a bad maid will have no back-lash

It goes without saying that an interview is also essential;but again – irrespective of the prospective employer’sinterview ability – this is fraught with problems for theperson who does not command the local language orunderstand the local culture. Thus, we always asked myChinese personal assistant to be present duringinterview. This practice had an added bonus if ever wehad problems later with the ayi, because my PA wasable to say to her something along the lines of: “Youremember that, at interview we or you said or asked so-and-so? Well, things are not working out like that; sowhat we need to do to correct the situation is … etc.”That, at any rate, was the gist of what she said (to quotethe sermon from “Beyond the Fringe”). In the processwe sadly discovered that one sure-fire way to motive theayi was to read her the riot act every so often. Thehome fax machine came in very useful here: my wifewould ring my PA and explain the situation; and then myPA would speak to or fax back instructions in Chinese tothe maid

DDiisscciipplliinnee aanndd ddiissmmiissssaall

Some employers fine their maids for poor performance,but we never did: punishment may make the employerfeel better, but it only tends to hide rather than improvepoor performance. But, at the end of the day, sincemaids in China are two a penny, there is little point intolerating a poor ayi who can be replaced immediately.One word of advice: dismiss an ayi instantly, and seeher off the premises immediately, ensuring she takesnone of your possessions. Since she will probably thinkthat you have too many things – by her standards – shemay not be adverse to relieving you of some of them

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“Chinese Puzzles” – Page26 Minim Consulting is the trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

PPrroobbaatt iioonn

A period of probation of a few days at minimal wages isessential. Although not long enough for the ayi to mis-behave – the prospect of full employment is a sufficientmotivator to guarantee good behaviour – it should giveample opportunity to experience her cooking, ironing,cleaning, shopping and language ability. Some maidshave very fixed ideas about, for example, what you liketo eat – generally, an exact match with what they areable to cook! Thus some Chinese ayis are only capableof brewing peasant dishes that taste awful, reminiscentof the opening scene of Macbeth

DDoogg ssiitt tt iinngg

The family dog is also a valuable judge of characterwhen it comes to choosing an ayi. Maids quicklyrealised that for some foreigners – including us - it was aquestion of “love us, love our dog”, so that one way toimpress was to cherish Bismark, however obnoxious andnaughty around the house. Thus, it was very obvious atinterview how the older maids would make a fuss ofBismark quite overtly – they did not bother to be subtle,probably thinking all foreigners were stupid, asmentioned earlier. However, it was Bismark’s behaviourwhen we returned home after he had been alone all daywith the ayi that told us how she really treated him. Forone ayi, that was her redeeming feature, such that wecould go away and happily leave Bismark with herovernight

LLiivviinngg iinn oorr nnoott??

Which raises the question: should the maid live in ornot?

When the children were small (not in China), the maidlived-in, because that was more convenient than aconstant stream of baby-sitters in a foreign country.However, the price we paid was our privacy, until suchtime as the boys could speak the local language andwere old enough to entrust to strange baby-sitters. Eventhough maids may have their own quarters and try to bediscreet, there is always the danger of your wanderinginto the kitchen at 4 o’clock in the morning for a glass ofwater – wearing little or nothing at all – only to bump intothe maid. In China, therefore, our maids always livedout, but had their own day-room. I hate to think whatwould have happened had they lived in – although someof our friends’ ayis did

Chinese people in general, let alone maids in particular,have little sense of private space, due to their up-bringing; whilst it is also rumoured that, when themistress is away, the master is fair game – a sort of rolereversal from this country two centuries ago! This lackof sense for privacy manifests itself in the mostunexpected ways: one maid was quite surprised andoffended when she was asked to wait on a number ofladies at a coffee morning, rather than – as she hoped todo – sit down with them. Another maid was prone tohanging around the bathroom when we were trying touse it

A living-in maid can also pose problems while the familyis away, by which I do not mean just using the masterbedroom and en-suite bathroom. The greatest libertyour Chinese maid took, of which we are aware – apartfrom using the telephone - was bringing in her husband’sdirty clothes, and using our washing-machine and iron inour time to clean and press them

WWaaggeess

The vexed question, of course, is: how much to pay anayi? To which the simple answer is: the average goingrate that your friends and neighbours are paying. Payover the odds, and you will soon lose your friends astheir maids demand a raise; pay a pittance, and the maidwill soon leave – for be assured that maids’ wages areno secret between them. Of course, hours, duties andperks – such as food and lodging – come into theequation, but pity does not. Less than one hundredpounds sterling per month for a 35-hour week on top of atwo-hour journey each way may seem little by Westernstandards, but do not be tempted to double or treble it:many graduate managers in Chinese companies do noteven earn that much

BBoonnuusseess aanndd ggiifftt ss

On top of the monthly wage, maids expect to receive abonus and/or gift at the Spring New Year Festival andAutumn Moon Festival, but this should be regarded as areward for good work rather than their right. However, itcan be very embarrassing to receive a Festival gift froma maid that has cost her more than hers cost you! And,while on the subject of gifts: be prepared for her to giveyour children a present too, and have one ready for hers

Other perks you may legitimately consider giving a maidare: a bicycle and television

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UUnniiffoorrmmss

It is also a good idea to provide working clothes, such asa housecoat. These avoid the embarrassment ofperspiration, cover up the inappropriately immodestsummer-wear, and – in the case of the Chinese whohave an unusual dress sense – hide the loud and, byWestern standards, clashing colours. For formalentertaining (but not in China), we found that a smartdark dress with a white starched apron made theoccasion extra special, and motivated the maid to be onher best behaviour

TTiimmee ooffff

As to days off and holidays: again, follow the localnorms. If in doubt, in this as in all aspects, do ask thelocal people rather than the foreigners

SSoocciiaall SSeeccuurriittyy

Finally, the Chinese authorities will expect employers topay social security for their maids, and the maidsthemselves to make a small contribution. Beware ofthose, therefore, who try to persuade you that this is notnecessary and/or do not pay their share. Sinceforeigners live in designated compounds, it is very easyfor the local government officials to go from dwelling todwelling, enquiring which maids are registered with thecompetent authority or not, and checking that theycomply with the social security requirements

FFEESSCCOO

Maids should be employed through an organisation suchas FESCO, an agency specialising in supplying Chineseworkers of all types – professional and managerial aswell as manual, and not just maids - to foreigners, sincethese are not allowed to employ Chinese people directly.Thus, all employers should provide a contract ofemployment to FESCO, including for maids. Indeed,some branches of FESCO will provide a “fill-in-the-blanks” pro-forma, stating duties and wages

HHoouusseehhoolldd sseeccuurriittyy

The management of many foreigners’ housingcompounds will also want the maid to register with them,as a safety and security precaution. By the same token,therefore, please remember to de-register the maid onher dismissal or your departure, recover her identitypass and key, and – if appropriate – change the burglaralarm code. Otherwise, you may be ripe for a burglary

CChhiilldd mmiinnddiinngg

As to an ayi’s duties: that is down to her employers’needs. As young parents (not in China), we appreciatedhelp with the children and cooking. Twenty-five yearslater in China, we were looking for someone to clean,wash, shop and walk the dog, but not cook or child-mind.Many parents do rely on their ayis to look after thechildren, which is fine as long as the ayi really iscapable. It also does wonders for the children’s spokenChinese. However, two words of warning. First:remember the Philippine maid in Hong Kong who, whenasked by the parents to wash the baby, put it into thewashing machine with fatal results. And what about allthe stories of negligent nannies that seem to fill the newsat the time of writing? Secondly: from personalexperience, beware of young children who treat maidsas their personal servants, especially in countries (e.g.South America) where maids address children as “you”and “little master/ mistress” and are addressed as “thou”and by name. Proper respect for maids should beshown at all times – after all, it is in their country that weare living

PPoosstt ssccrriipptt

One last word of caution: all good things come to anend! Thus, on return to the UK, husbands shouldnot expect their wives to be surrogate maids!


The China Syndrome - Maids (Appendix)

Page #1

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Page #2


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Page #3


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Page #4


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“Chinese Puzzles” – Page 28 Minim Consulting is the trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson

1. Names are very important to the Chinese. Establish howto address someone during your first meeting. Chineseare seldom called by their given names, except by closerelatives or extremely intimate friends

2. Chinese surnames come first, not last. Call a Chineseperson by the surname, together with a title like “Mister”or even “Director” or “Manager” said just before it. Youmay also drop the surname altogether and call someoneby his or her functional title only

3. Formal welcoming parties are sent to airports by theChinese to meet important delegations and see them off.The rank of the official greeter depends on theimportance of the visitor

4. Don’t be surprised to be asked personal questions e.g.how much you earn or why you have not married. If youare uncomfortable answering such questions, deflectthem with humour

5. A Chinese may stand a bit too close to you for comfort;they are comfortable with shorter personal distances thanare many Westerners. Other Chinese habits that mayappear offensive include belching, spitting, littering oreven passing wind. Though these are consideredimpolite, you may experience them among less educatedChinese

Chinese - especially those from large and poorlyeducated families - have little concept if any ofpersonal space, since it is alien to their homeexperience. Thus: maids may try to clean thebathroom while you are using it, or join in yourcoffee morning; and girl-friends accompanyWestern ladies to the toilet!

6. Chinese in rural areas may stare at foreigners. This is notconsidered impolite, nor is it an expression of hostility

To some extent, these views are naïve. The less-well educated Chinese still treat foreigners withsuspicion as “devils”, and consider them inferior justbecause they are not Chinese and often cannotspeak the language. Thus: attempts to speakMandarin in small-town shops may be met withblatant ridicule

7. Do not touch Chinese of the opposite sex in socialsituations except for a handshake. Avoid passionateforms of contact in public even with other foreigners.Physical contact among members of the same sex iscommon in China, however, and generally carries nosexual overtones

8. Sometimes the Chinese ill laugh at mishaps. This is anuncertain reaction to an uncomfortable situation andshould not be confused with amusement

9. Avoid rough physical contact with the Chinese, such asback-slapping or hugging, even in fun. Keep properposture and never put your feet up on a table, nor use abody part other than your hands to point to an object ormanipulate an object. Use both hands to present a gift ora business card

10. The Chinese are far more comfortable with silence thanWesterners. What is left unsaid can be as important aswhat is expressed directly, and silence can be a virtueamong Chinese. It can also be a sign of politeness, or aploy to ferret out information

11. Never force a Chinese to say a direct “no” to you. TheChinese refuse politely in a number of ways withoutexactly saying “no”. Among them are to say something is“inconvenient”, “under consideration” or “being discussed”

By the same token, never say a direct “no” to aChinese person, which will make him lose face andconsequently shut the proverbial door in your faceto further re-negotiation. Always leave yourselfroom for further manoeuvre, playing the Chinese attheir own game

12. When pressed, a Chinese may even tell an abject lie toavoid saying “no”. Often the motive is a laudable one,however e.g. to spare a guest a loss of face

13. Do business in China through face-to-face meetingswhenever possible, for telephone systems arerudimentary and telephone etiquette leaves much to bedesired

Although the telephone network in and betweenmajor cities is excellent, you are unlikely to dobusiness over the telephone unless you speak goodChinese - even to arrange a meeting, which shouldmore properly be done between the secretaries ofall parties concerned, to maintain their status

14. If you do have to use the phone, be sure to stateimmediately what organisation you represent and whatthe purpose of your call is. Be patient if you areinterrogated in some detail about these things beforebeing connected with your party or given the informationyou seek

15. Remember that there is no such thing as a truly privatetelephone conversation in China, so it’s best not todiscuss anything highly personal or private by phone

It is said that hotel lifts have ears as well

Source: Scott D. Seligman, Dealing with the Chinese, pp. 32-33


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- NN eeggoott iiaatt iinngg

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1. Joint ventures, even when all parties appear willing, cantake up to two years to negotiate

2. It may be good manners to talk around a subject ratherthan address it directly, though Chinese negotiators arebecoming less sensitive and more direct. Look foropportunities for empathy

3. Conventional wisdom is never to show anger but alwaysbe polite, softly spoken and gentle. Probably right, but wehave seen, very occasionally, anger used to good effectboth between and with Chinese negotiators

4. Silence is considered a valuable supporting tool

5. Words and gestures may have hidden meanings and,especially in the early stages, many devices are used totest sincerity and commitment

6. Use your opponents’ strengths, jiu-jitsu like, rather thantaking undue advantage of their weaknesses; they willremember and resent it. That may seem a bit gnomic butwhat we mean is that your arguments should give face

7. The time component, or pace, of negotiation is activelymanaged. For example, they will be conscious of whenyou have to leave and of the pressure from the homeoffice to get a deal

8. Knowing where the exits are. Leaving the other party anexit demonstrates trust and increases the probability ofgood will. If he takes it, then all the better to find outsooner. Leaving oneself an exit is more tricky (showslack of commitment), not least because the other partyshould have left one for you. That does not mean that hewants you to use it

CChhiinneessee nneeggoott iiaatt iinngg ttaacctt iiccss

1. Controlling the location and schedule of the talks

2. Exploring vulnerabilities

3. Guilt tripping

4. Instilling shame

5. Playing off competitors against one another

6. Using intermediaries to float ideas and possible positions

7. Feigning anger

8. Revisiting old issues

9. Invoking the law and legal precedents

10. Raising and lowering expectations to suit their purposes

DDoo ……

1. Do your homework

2. Take detailed notes

3. Always be able to walk away from the table

4. Remember that final decisions will be made by peoplewho are absent

5. Display a high level of commitment

6. Pad your price

7. Check your ego at the door

8. Go through every single detail of the contract

9. Be careful what you say to the media

10. Be prepared for a lot of backtracking, repetition, ambiguityand inevitable misunderstandings

DDoonn’’tt ……

1. Don’t be quick to resolve individual problems as they arebrought up by the Chinese side

2. Don’t concede anything easily, even something that is notvery important to you

3. Don’t reject a Chinese position out of hand

4. Don’t assume there is any such thing as “China plc”

5. Don’t project a sense of “victory” at a successfulagreement

6. Don’t hesitate to cut your losses

7. Don’t assume that you counterpart’s decisions arenecessarily made for economic reasons alone

8. Don’t ever speak “off the record”

9. Don’t show your temper

10. Don’t lose patience


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CCaassee ssttuuddyy

Keep calm, even when an intermediary asks you for anexorbitant favour in exchange for a promise (s)he may not beable to deliver, as follows:

We once received an unsolicited approach from anunknown Chinese intermediary, offering to set up a dealwith a potential joint-venture partner with whom we notonly already enjoyed good and direct relations but alsohad a meeting scheduled a few days hence. Theapproach was made via a UK third party, known to theChinese intermediary and us

On checking his credentials:

• the intermediary explained that he would be presentat the scheduled meeting with the potential JVpartner, whom he knew well, and wished to help usbetter understand her position so that we mightreach a mutually beneficial understanding

• the potential JV partner denied all knowledge of theintermediary’s role

Reluctantly, we agreed to meet the intermediary, for threereasons - to:

• please the UK third party

• placate the potential JV partner, just in case theintermediary could jeopardise the meeting

• save the intermediary’s face by not saying “no”(which might have shut the door to furthernegotiation)

whilst at the same time making it clear that we would onlyagree to the intermediary attending the scheduledmeeting if the potential JV partner also agreed (which, atthe time, she had not)

At the meeting with the intermediary, in my office, hebrought his own interpreter, so I asked my bi-lingualChinese personal assistant also to attend: not only toeven the numbers, but also to check on his interpreter’sperformance and to advise me as necessary on protocol.This was to ensure a level playing-field, rather than one inthe Chinese intermediary’s favour

The preliminaries over, the intermediary claimed that thepotential JV partner had three pet projects: a new school,hospital and office block - and that if we were to financeone, she might consider agreeing to a joint venture.However, were another company also to finance one, shewould have to choose between us - unless that companywere to finance two, in which case there would be nocontest

I listened, took notes, asked appropriate questions,explained that I could not decide but would refer to myhome office, thanked him for the opportunity of “firstrefusal” for such projects, and promised to let him havean early answer. After he left, my Chinese personalassistant was visibly shocked, and had no doubt thatwhat had just happened was a request for a substantialbribe. We immediately reported to our home office, whichagreed we had acted wholly appropriately

Later that day, the scheduled meeting was cancelled foran apparently totally unconnected reason. On informingour home office, I was told that the UK third party hadalready told them that the intermediary had complained ofmy lack of co-operation - a charge our home office flatlydenied

Some 18 months later, I happened to meet by chance acontemporary of mine from school. To cut a long storyshort, he had been the UK third party; and, within a fewminutes of our talking, retracted his view of myperformance - for he had no idea of what the intermediaryhad asked of me, which shocked him

Footnote:

Even if we had conceded, there is no guarantee thatwe would have been successful. Chequebooknegotiating has reputedly worked occasionally in thepast (e.g. AIG), but the Chinese are reluctant to bitethe hand that feeds it: in other words, while they canstill dangle carrots and receive presents, why handover the carrots? As a Beijing University professoronce said to me: why should the Chinese use theirown money - of which he claimed that they had morethan sufficient - whilst the West is prepared to handtheirs over by the barrowful?

Source: T Ambler and M Witzel, Doing Business in China, p. 122

Scott D. Seligman, Dealing with the Chinese, pp. 127-140

Case Study: Minim Consulting, based on personal experience

CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess -- RReeccrreeaatt iioonn

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Minim Consulting isthe trading partnership of Andrew and Eileen Williamson ”Chinese Puzzles” – Page 31

BBeesstt ooff SShhaanngghhaaii

Best Discover the treasures of the Old Town, theWalks French Concession, the Bund, & Nanjing

Donglu

Best Find that elusive “original” at the DongtaiShopping Lu Antique Market, stock up on cheap

souvenirs at Yuyuan Bazaar, reinvent yourwardrobe at the Huating Market, and oglethe department stores on the Huaihai Lu

Best Marvel at the colonial decadence of theSights Bund, discover cultural treasures at the

Shanghai Museum Art Museum, and visitthe bustling Yuyuan Gardens

Best Stroll amid the early-morning t’ai chiParks practitioners at Fuxing and Hongkou Parks

Best The Jade Buddha Temple is the best,Temple though the Longhua Temple comes a close

second

Best Check out the Bund and Nanjing Lu; take inViews the city from M on the Bund, the top floor of

the Jinmao Tower or, for a completelydifferent kind of view, the Grand Hyatt’sAtrium Cafe

Best Relax and take in the waterfront on aEntertainment Huangpu River Cruise, enjoy the tunes of

Shanghai’s musical stalwarts – the jazzband at the Peace Hotel , and treat yourselfto a performance of one of the city’sfamous acrobatic troupes

Best Take trips to Suzhou and SongjiangExcursions

Taking Unwind with tea at the Mid-Lake Pavilion,a Break or indulge in a massage

Best Splurge on anything in the Grand Hyatt,Splurge brunch at the Portman Ritz-Carlton or post-

theatre dinner at M on the Bund

SSppoorrtt

Residents in China’s big cities can now participate in a widevariety of sports. In Shanghai, for example, there are clubs thatoffer: badminton, basketball, bowling, bungee jumping, cycling,go-karting, golf, keep-fit, runs, martial arts, paintball, rockclimbing, rugby, running, scuba diving, skateboarding, squash,swimming & tennis

The best way to find out more about these and other clubs andactivities is to get hold of a copy of a city listings magazine (inEnglish), such as included in the Shanghai Star, That’sShanghai and Shanghai Talk. A number of websites containingmuch helpful information are listed in the Bibliography (page 37)

CChhuurrcchh aanndd WWoorrsshhiipp

International This Protestant Church at 53 Hengshan LuChurch is also known today by its old name,

Community Church. Built in 1925, it isperhaps the church best know toforeigners. Sunday services are at 7:30and 10 a.m.

Kunshan On Kunshan Lu, this delightful church wasProtestant re-opened in late 1981. Sunday ServicesChurch are at 7:30 and 9:30 a.m. There is also a

regular evening service

Xujiahui One of Shanghai’s most famous land-Cathedral marks, the Roman Catholic Cathedral at(St Ignatius 201 Caoxi Bei Lu was re-opened inCathedral) November 1979. There are daily services

at 5:30, 6:15 and 7 a.m. There are fiveservices every Sunday, with start timesranging from 4:45 to 9:30 a.m.

Zhabei This Protestant Church, at 8 Baotong Lu, isChurch a 15-minute walk north from the main

railway station. It was re-opened in 1982after being closed for 16 years. Serviceson Sundays are ate 7:30 and 9:30 a.m.There is also the occasional eveningservice. Communion is by invitation only,though foreigners are always madewelcome by the pastors who look after thechurch

Mu’en In the summer of 1988, two ProtestantChurch bishops were consecrated here, the first to

be installed in China for over 30 years.Used as a school until 1979, this formerMethodist church can be found in XianHong Lu between Juicing Lu & Hankou Lu

Whilst foreigners may attend local churches, Chinese are notallowed to attend non-Chinese churches, where entry may besubject to producing a foreign passport

CCoommmmuunniittyy CCeenntt rreess

We found that many expatriate housing compounds had acommunity centre that might include a bar, restaurant,swimming pool, in- and outdoor sports facilities (e.g. squashand tennis), supermarket, hairdresser, games room etc; whilstthe church we attended was in the theatre of a club complex

Source: Lonely Planet City Guides, Shanghai, p. 95

Odyssey Illustrated Guide to Shanghai, pp. 39 and 42


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– SSuuppppoorrtt SSeerrvviicceess

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DDooccttoorrss aanndd DDeenntt iissttss

The main foreign embassies and consulates keep lists ofEnglish-speaking doctors, dentists and hospitals thataccept foreigners

Emergency International SOS Assistance/Asia Emergency Assistance(AEA) InternationalNo. 2606 Shartex Plaza88 Zunyi NanluShanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6295-9951Alarm: (+86) 021-6295-0099

MMaaiiddss

See Page 23: Maids

TTrraaddeessmmeenn

Most expatriate housing compounds normally haverecourse to an ample supply of plumbers, electricians,carpenters, gardeners etc. who are reasonablycompetent and cheap

One word of warning: many tradesmen are afraid ofdogs

BBuussiinneessss

British Chamber Room 1701-1702of Commerce Westgate Tower

1038 Nanjing XiluShanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6218-5022Fax: (+86) 021-6218-5066

British Consulate Room 301Shanghai Centre1376 Nanjing XiluShanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6279-7650Fax: (+86) 021-6279-7651

British Council 3D Dongyi Building88-90 Changshu LuShanghai

Tel: (+86) 021- 6249-3412Fax: (+86) 021- 6249-3410

China-Britain c/oBusiness Council British Chamber of Commerce

Tel: (+86) 021-6218-5183

Hong Kong & 6th

FloorShanghai 185 Yuanmingyuan LuBank Shanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6321-8383

Reuters Tel: (+86) 021-6355-9333

Swiss Bank Corp Tel: (+86) 021-5292-5555

Swiss-China Chamber Tel: (+86) 021- 6532-2736

Winterthur Insurance Tel: (+86) 021-5882-3351

Zurich Insurance Tel: (+86) 021-6279-8686

Xinhua News Agency Tel: (+86) 021-6431-3564


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– TTrraannssppoorrtt

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IInntteerrnnaall TTrraavveell

Travelling in China can be a challenge, despite the manyrecent improvements. Queuing at booking offices cantake ages and procedures can often seem illogical. Tryto stay calm and be patient – as with everything else inChina!

Where possible, book tickets through your hotel, office orthe China International Travel Service (CITS). Thisorganisation has improved immeasurably, although itsservice can be slow. Book well in advance and thenconfirm. Make sure you arrive early at your departurepoint. Two-way air or train tickets within China cannotalways be purchased – the return portion of the journeymay have to be bought on arrival at your destination

We relied on my personal assistant to handle all ourfamily travel arrangements - especially air and hotelbookings, including hotel cars from/to thedestination airport

AAiirr

China has many airline companies operating domesticroutes. Safety has become a priority, resulting in amarked reduction in the number of crashes. However, itis advisable to stick to the better-known airlines, such asChina Air, as they are more likely to provide anacceptable level of service. China Eastern, China’s thirdlargest carrier in terms of fleet, operates out of Shanghai

We travelled frequently with Air China – bothdomestically and internationally – and always feltvery safe. Their Business Class is not of EuropeanStandard. With other domestic carriers, we tendedto travel First Class, which again did not reachEuropean Business Class standard. However, wedid appreciate the separate check-in desks anddeparture lounges … and some of the gifts werevery acceptable!

Shanghai has two airports: Hongqiao (SHA) on thewestern outskirts; and Pudong (PVG) 30 km to theSouth-East. If you have to transfer between the two,airport buses and taxis are available, but allow at leastone hour to cross the city

Flights may be booked through CITS, local travel agentsor airline offices. Your hotel or office should be able toarrange this for you, but possibly not until three days inadvance of the flight. Be prepared to pay in cash, since- as everywhere else in China - few travel outlets takecredit cards. There are few bargain air-tickets inShanghai: in general, the cheapest fares are with AirChina or China Eastern

There is a departure tax of Yn50 at the airport for alldomestic flights (Yn90 for international flights). Alwaysremember to take your passport

Airlines often ask you to check in two hours beforedeparture, but one hour before may be more realistic.More important is to give yourself time to get throughShanghai’s traffic, especially if you are travelling duringrush hour

Baggage allowances are 20kg in economy and 30kg infirst class. You are also allowed 5kg of hand luggage,though this is rarely weighed – which may explain whyfew people bother to check in luggage on a domesticflight: it is quicker just to lug it on and off the plane

RRaaiill

Train seats come in three options (there are no“classes” in socialist China): hard seat, hard sleeper andsoft sleeper. For anything other than a short journey,take the soft sleeper option. An overnight train willinvolve sharing a four-berth compartment. Restaurantcars used to be less than enticing, but the quality hasimproved considerably. The safety record of the railwaysystem is good. The toilets, however, leave much to bedesired

In Shanghai, tickets can be purchased through CITS(on Jinling Donglu), travel agents and some hotels (e.g.Longmen Hotel, a short walk to the west of the trainstation). At the station, the easiest place to buy tickets isthe counter in the soft seat waiting room for current andnext-day tickets. Sleepers can be booked up to fourdays in advance. Long distance tickets should bebought at least 24 hours, if not several days, in advance

SSuubbwwaayy // MMeett rroo

The subway is fast, clean (smoking is banned), cheapand safe, with good directions and information.Shanghai has two lines (North-South and East-West),with more planned; and trains run every 9 minutes (rushhour) or 12 minutes (off-peak). Currently, there are nobulk-buy savings or travel cards; but, to save queuing,you can buy pre-paid tickets. Stations are announcedin English as well as Chinese. They do not have toilets

LLiigghhtt RRaaiillwwaayy

In Shanghai, the Pearl Mass Transit light railwaycurrently runs North-West-South; with plans for a secondline running North-East-South, thus creating a circularloop (due 2004)

________________________________________________________________________________________________


TTaaxxii

If you do not have your own transport, the best way toget around any city is by taxi. In Shanghai, taxis arereasonably cheap, hassle-free and – outside rush-hour –easy to flag down. Nevertheless, be prepared forcrowded and chaotic streets that may take a long time tonegotiate, and leave plenty of time for your journeys

Bearing in mind that taxi drivers are surprisingly bad atfinding their way around and that very few speak anyEnglish, ensure that you have a Chinese character mapand/or your destination, home and office addresseswritten down in characters. It also helps if you have yourown directions, and sit in the front with a map: if youlook helpless, you may literally be “taken for a ride”!

Taxis usually charge by distance and time taken, socheck that that the driver turns on the meter at thebeginning of each trip (although most drivers aresurprisingly honest). Always ask for a receipt, showingthe fare, taxi and driver details, as well as a number tocall in case of problems (e.g. mislaid luggage)

If you find a taxi driver that you particularly like, ask for acard. Most drivers have phones, and can be hired forthe day

CCaarr HHiirree

It is becoming easier to hire a car (with driver) in thebigger cities, where car hire companies are springing upas the number of affluent Chinese with driving licencesincreases. Indeed, renting cars has become somethingof a vogue, with many Chinese using them in preferenceto taxis for business purposes

We hired a car (with driver) each time a group ofsenior executives visited China for several days toattend multiple meetings – when my own car (withdriver) was insufficient on its own. On suchoccasions, when punctuality and safety wereparamount, this was preferable to using taxis

PPrriivvaattee CCaarrss

Most expatriates are provided with a company car; andmany (like ourselves) with a driver too, for reasons ofpersonal safety and “hassle-free” convenience, since …

China does not recognise international driving licences,but requires foreigners to a test, including a physical.Moreover, if you cannot read Chinese characters, youwill not make much sense of the road signs!

Geographical restrictions also apply to expatriates. Forexample, in Shanghai, foreigners are only allowed todrive themselves within the municipality. As for thetraffic in Shanghai: one guide book describes it as“anarchic”

If you do drive, and have an accident, expect to beheld liable: after all, if - as a foreigner - you had notbeen driving, then the accident would not haveoccurred! Beware, therefore, of the young Chinesewho play “chicken” in the hope that, if you hit them,they can sue you. This happened to a friend, whoseemployer refused to help him after he had turneddown their offer of a driver. Apocryphal stories alsoabound of foreigners driving straight to the airportand leaving the country after accidentally runningover Chinese pedestrians

BBuusseess

Some foreign housing compounds provide buses,especially at the weekends, to local shopping centres.In all honesty, we can say that their drivers are the worstwe have come across anywhere in the world

BBiiccyycclleess

China is the country to buy a good quality bicycle at avery reasonable price. Riding it, however, other than off-road, is another question!

UUsseeffuull CCoonnttaacctt DDeettaaiillss

Air China Address:600 Huashan Lu, Shanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6269-2999Web: www.airchina.com.cn

China Address:200 Yan’an Xilu, ShanghaiEastern Tel: (+86) 021-6247-5953

Web: www.cea.online.sh.cn

CITS Address:1277 Beijing Xilu, Shanghai

Tel: (+86) 021-6289-8899Web: www.cits.net

Source: Lonely Planet City Guides, Shanghai, pp. 76-94

The China Business Handbook 2002, pp. 28-29


CChhiinneessee PPuuzzzzlleess–– WWoorrkk PPrraacctt iicceess

________________________________________________________________________________________________


RReeccrruuiitt iinngg SSttaaffff

1. Depending on their legal status, some foreignemployers may not be allowed to employ Chinesestaff directly, but required to hire them through agovernment employment agency (e.g. FESCO). Notall offices of such agencies follow standard terms ofbusiness or even a single practice, so that it ispossible for employees of the same foreign companyin Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou to be hired ondifferent terms. Wherever possible, when given thechoice, employers should opt to pay employeesdirectly rather than via the agency: in this way, theemployees are guaranteed to receive their full wage

2. You are free to advertise job vacancies other than viagovernment employment agencies, who will only sendyou whom they wish. In this way, you will have awider and freer choice

3. Selecting and recruiting Chinese staff suitable to workin a foreign company is a daunting task, especially ifthey have never done so before. Thus, the followingrecommendations are based on having had to build asmall mainland Chinese workforce from virtuallyscratch to work alongside a few UK and Hong Kongcolleagues:

a. Use competence-based selection proceduresbased on specific job descriptions or roleprofiles; and do not be afraid to include practicalskills tests. In other words: start as you mean togo on, by using Western Human Resourcemanagement techniques (but adapted for China)from the beginning. This will not only deter themere “job seekers” and weed out theincompetent, but also attract the competent whowill relish the challenge. In this way did weretain the interest of a new Chief Representativewhose appointment we could not confirm formany months (due to restructuring)

b. Be controversial at interview; and appointthose who argue with you: China is full ofacquiescent employees, without initiative (seepage 17: Cultural Differences – paragraphs 1,6-8). One reason I chose my Personal Assistantwas that, after taking her to lunch so that mywife could interview her too, she said that shedid not like the food. Again, if the OfficeManager had not had the confidence tochallenge me at interview, she might havelacked the courage to report a suspected fraudto me

c. Use probing questions, and be prepared tofollow lines of enquiry even where you feeluncomfortable. Had we not done so, we mighthave appointed as a marketer and marketresearcher an ex-Major from military intelligencewho – eventually – confessed that she wouldresort to unprintable tactics to promote ourcompany

d. Favour those who have worked previouslyfor a foreign employer and/or been abroad.My Personal Assistant had to endure beingbranded a “traitor” by her previous Chineseemployer – a well-known English-languagenewspaper, where she was a senior editor;whilst another employee had to return to hisprevious Chinese employer – an equally well-known shipping company. In both cases, theycame from relatively privileged families: perhapsit was because the latter’s father was anambassador that he felt obliged to “toe the line“rather than “pull rank”

MMaannaaggiinngg SSttaaffff

4. Pay is often irrational, determined by age andinfluence but not performance. The best way wefound to rationalise pay structures was to introducejob evaluation and performance appraisal, basedon the HAY-MSL methodology. However, thisapproach requires great sensitivity to culturaldifferences (see pages 17-19: Cultural Differences)and cannot be rushed: even my most senior Chinesecolleague with a UK MBA could not cope as well asher younger colleagues; whilst reprimanding staff forpoor performance yet still allowing them to “walk tall”as if they were the employee of the month severelytaxed my interpersonal skills and HR expertise

5. Training staff poses another challenge. In the West,employees are expected not only to apply newlearning in the workplace but also to share it withcolleagues. In other words, by training one you trainmany, which is a cost effective method of staffdevelopment. In China, however, “knowledge ispower” i.e. it serves the advancement of the individualover colleagues. To share new learning, therefore,dilutes that power, which in turn weakens personaladvancement … so do not expect your Chineseprotégés, returning from the West with the MBAs yousponsored, to feel obliged to “pay you back” bysharing their new-found knowledge with others

6. Promotion is another brain-teaser, for the Chinese atleast. A very senior government official - involved inthe restructuring of State Owned Enterprises - onceasked me what he should do with six bright gradates,all worthy of promotion, when there was only onevacancy available? My answer was simple: assessthem all, and promote the most able one on meritalone. His question should have been: how tomotivate and retain the remaining five?


/ 1

Chinese Puzzles - Bibliography

About China

China E-Travel, www.chinaetravel.com, 2002

Beijing Scene Guidebook

Beijing Scene Publishing, USA, 1997

Beijing

Insight Guides, Apa Publications, 3rd edition,Hong Kong, 1997

Beijing

Lonely Planet Publications, Australia, 3rd

edition, 1998

Beyond the Chinese Face: Insights fromPsychology

Michael Harris Bond, Oxford University Press(China), Hong Kong, 1991

China

Atlapedia Online, www.atlapedia.com, 2002

China

Encarta Encyclopaedia, encarta.msn.co.uk,2002

China

Insight Guides, Apa Publications, 9th

edition,Singapore, 2000

China

Lonely Planet Online, www.lonelyplanet.com,2002

China

Lonely Planet Publications, Australia, 7th

edition, 2000

China: A History

Arthur Cotterrell, Pimlico, London, 1995

China ABC

Chinese Embassy, London,www.chinese-embassy.org.uk

China Basics

China Tour, www.chinatour.com, 2002

China-Britain Trade Review

China-Britain Business Council, London,Monthly

China by Rail

Douglas Streatfeild-James, TrailblazerPublications, Hindhead (UK), 1997

China Business Handbook 2002

China Economic Review, Alain CharlesPublishing Ltd, 5

thedition, London, 2002

China Cultural and Language Briefing

Andrew M. Williamson in: Export BuyersGuide, 5

thedition, 2002

China Economic Review

Alain Charles Publishing Ltd, London, Monthly

China Guides

Hotel Travel, www.hoteltravel.com, 2002

China in Brief

China Internet Information Centre,www.chinaguide.org, 2002

China Today

China Today, www.chinatoday.com, 2002

China Travel Tips

Hotel Travel, www.hoteltravel.com, 2002

Chinese Banquet

China Online, www.chineseculture.about.com,2002

Country Profile: China

Foreign Office, www.fco.gov.uk, 2002

Cultural Essentials

China Vista, www.chinavista.com, 2002

Culture Shock! China

Kevin Sinclair with Iris Wong Po-yee,Kuperard, London, 3

rdedition, 1999

Dealing with the Chinese

Scott D Seligman, Management Books 2000,Chalford (UK), 1997

Doing Business in China

Tim Ambler and Morgen Witzel, Routledge,London, 2000

Doing Business in the PRC

Pricewaterhouse Coopers, USA, 1995

Doing Business with China

Kogan Page, UK, 2000

Encountering the Chinese

Hu Wenzhong & Cornelius L Grove,Intercultural Press, USA, 1991

Food


Greater China Property Index

Jones Lang LaSalle, China, July 2002

Greater China Residential Market Overview

Colliers Jardine, China, July 2002

/ 2

Chinese Puzzles - Bibliography

Guide to Household Moving

Crown Worldwide, Beijing, 1998

Living and Working in China

Christina Hall, How To Books, Plymouth (UK),1996

Living and Working in China

Employment Conditions Abroad Limited, UK,1996

MetArt

Sustainable Development Dept, Food andAgriculture Organisation of the UnitedNations, metart.fao.org, 2002

Old Shanghai

Betty Peh-T’I Wei, Oxford University Press,Hong Kong, 1993

Shanghai

Lonely Planet Publications, Australia, 1st

edition, 2001

Shanghai

Odyssey Illustrated Guide, The Guide BookCo Ltd, Hong Kong, 3

rdedition, 1995

Shanghai Rediscovered

Christopher Knowles, Lascelles, UK, 1990

Survival Facts


Transport


Travel China Guide,

www.travelchinaguide.com, 2002

Travel Tips

China National Tourism Association,www.cnta.com, 2002

Travel Tips

China Tour, www.chinatour.com, 2002

Travel Tips

China Vista, www.chinavista.com, 2002

Traveller’s History of China

Stephen Haw, Windrush Press, Moreton-in-Marsh (UK), 1995

Welcome to Beijing

Barrie S Risman, Jones Lang Wootton,Beijing, 1997

Welcome to China

China National Tourist Office, www.cnto.org,2002

World Factbook: China

CIA, www.odci.gov/cia, 2002

Xenophobe’s Guide to the Chinese

J C Yang, Oval Books, 3rd

edition, 1997

shanghai briefing

Business

chief china

wall of china

old china hand

selfstyled china experts

eileen williamson

chi nese puzzl es int

chi nese puzzl es bri

british council