saree weaving - sambalpur, orissa -...

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Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/saree-weaving-sam-balpur-orissa

1. Introduction2. Tools and Raw Materials3. Making Process4. Products5. Video6. Contact Details

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Saree Weaving - Sambalpur, OrissaAncient HandicraftbyProf. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Manasa K. H.NID Campus, Bengaluru

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Introduction The Sambalpuri saree is made from the fabric knitted on a handloom and it is admired throughout India. The tex-ture of a fabric varies upon the wrap and weft yarns used for its production. The important raw materials used in the weaving of these saree are cotton. This art of weaving of dyeing of a fabric is practiced in India since ancient times

It is said that saree weaving was such an important part of the life of the ancient times that many of its tech-niques gave the name to philosophical and religious thought. Evidences of weaving practiced in India are found in epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata that speak in length about the craft. It is believed that The Indian sarees has been in existence for more than 5000 years that is mentioned in the Vedas. Some versions of the history of Indian clothing trace the sari back to the Indus valley civilization, which flourished in 2800-1800 BC. It was the basic wear which was used by rural people of India.

Sambalpuri sarees are major tribute to the traditional handlooms of Orissa. Unique in the making and exquisite in its designs, the Sambalpuri saree reflects an ancient handicraft called BandhaKala. The yarns are tied according to the desired patterns to prevent absorption of dyes, and then dyed. The yarns or set of yarns so produced is called ‘Baandha’. The unique feature of this form of designing is that the designs are reflected almost identically on both side of the fabric. Once the fabric is dyed it can never be bleached in to other color. This versatile tech-nique enables a craftsman to weave colorful designs, patterns and images into a fabric capable of inspiring a thought or conveying a message.

Today the Baandha fabric is popularly known for its geographical and cultural name Sambalpuri owing to the innovative efforts of Sri Radhashyam Meher. He was the one who in the year 1926 had first handloom to weave textiles of ninety inches width and brought a radical changes in the skills of the craftsmen and the quality of the products. Other master craftsmen who contributed to the development of Sambalpuri textiles were Padmashree Kailash Chandra Meher, Padmashree Kunja Bihari Meher, Padmashree Chatrubhuja Meher and Padmashree Krutharth Acharya. Sambalpuri textiles today include delivering materials, dress materials and silk sarees, cotton with offering varieties of color options and designs. Baandha craftsmen are also masters of the ‘extra warp’ and ‘extra weft’ style of designing which can be seen in almost all forms of Baandha textiles. Radhashyam Meher also produced Khadi textiles using the Baandha art

Sambalpuri saree there are many other varieties of sarees are made in this state and those are Sonepuri, Pasa-pali, Bomkai, Barpali, Bapta saris, which are in high demand. Most of the sarees are named after the place from where the work has begun and these are very popularly known as Pata sarees.

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Master craft man Rajendhra Meher, who is from Gurupali, says that since childhood from age of 11 years he is in-volved in saree weaving work. As a child he was very fascinated towards the weaving work. Due to his hard work and sincerity in the work today he has created a nice demand for the sambalpuri sarees in market. Initially when he started with the weaving work, he was getting payment of INR10 for one whole day. But now the labors who are working under his organization are earning minimum of INR.200 per Day.

Sambalpuri sarees have a unique design pattern.



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Mr. Rajendra Mehra master artisan.

Artisan involved in weaving process.

Beautifully embroidery work made on Sambalpuri saree.



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Sambalpuri is also famous for shawls.

Artisan wrapping the yarn in the winder.

Artisan tying syntactic threads in required design.



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Sambalpuri sarees in different designs and patterns.



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Tools and Raw Materials Tools and Raw materials are as follows:

• Cotton Yarn: Are the basic raw materials required in saree weaving.

• Charkha: Is a domestic spinning wheel used chiefly in cotton weaving.

• Scissors: It is used to cut the unrequired Yarns.

• Bobbins: Are used for winding the yarns for additional process.

• Shuttle: Is generally used to supplement the weft yarn into the loom.

• Spinning Wheel: A spinning wheel is a device for spinning thread or yarn from synthetic fiber.

Wooden yarn winder to role the yarn appropriately. Pit loom machine to weave saree.

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Cotton yarn is the main raw material. Wooden stick used in warping.



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Flying shuttle is to weft the cloth. Acid and Hydrochloric powders are mixed in water to settle the color on the yarn permanently.



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Yarn swift to hold the yarn.



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Making Process The process of making a Sambalpuri Saree consists of three major steps:1. Raw Yarn degumming2. Dyeing/Coloring3. Wrap/Weft4. Weaving

The process sequences followed during weaving are described as below:

The raw material used for all the products are 100 percent cotton, which are brought from the local dealers of Orissa. Sambalpuri fabrics have their original style of craft known as Baandha. Traditionally, craftsmen created Baandha with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns. Baandha fabric is created using a tie and dye technique.

In early times sambalpuri sarees were dyed using naturally extracted colors such as leafs, fruits, stems, roots, muds and outer cover of tree. They were using the following elements to get the respective colors as mentioned below mud – Brown color, Teak wood- Red color and mango nut for Black color. But after the synthetic dyes be-came available to them they abandoned the usage of natural material and adopted the synthetic dyes which are available in market.

Sambalpuri sarees are known for its geometrical designs and sober colors. Yarns are brought from the market are spun in to winded with the help of traditional charka. Winded yarns are then prepared for dyeing process by marking over the yarns using the handmade measuring scale.

The marked areas are tied so that only the tied area will not be colored and Yarn are then boiled in soap water to increase flexibility and texture and then it is dipped in a synthetic ready colors which are bought from the mar-ket. To develop another color in the design the colored portions are tied and the portion on which the second color has to be developed are untied and dyed in the second dye. In this manner a number of colors are devel-oped. These threads are so woven to desire design. Designs produced in this method differ from printed and jacquard woven designs as the figures by later process can be had only one side of the cloth. After the yarns are dyed, it is dried for some time and it is spindled using spinning wheels so that the required size of the yarns are then cut from the wheel and those threads undergo process called warp and weft where the threads are meas-ured to the needed length of the fabric to be woven. The wrap threads are then loaded to the bean. The bean is put to the loom and knotted to the old ones in the loom to begin with process of weaving.

A handloom saree is often woven on a shuttle-pit loom that made of ropes, wooden beams and poles. The shut-tles are thrown from side- side by the weaver. Other weavers use a fly-shuttle loom which can produced different types of patterns. The sarees can vary in size and quality.

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Flow Chart:



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Yarn is spun on a winder. Yarn is wrapped between two poles with shed sticks.

Yarn from various spindles are drawn to the warping wheel.

A bundle of yarn is placed in a yarn swift.Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/saree-weaving-sam-balpur-orissa/making-process


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Yarn is dipped in water before dyeing. Water is boiled for dyeing the yarn.

Using marking reference stick and sketch pen to mark on the yarn for the required design.

Synthetic threads are tied on the yarn to avoid dye on the particular place.



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Acid powder is mixed in the color water while boiling.

Required color is mixed in the boiling water.

Color water is heated again.



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Hydrochloric powder is mixed in the color water.



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Yarn is socked in the dye to attain its color. Yarn is rinsed with the help of rods.



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Yarn is washed in plain water.

Dyed yarn is dried under sun.

The saree is weaved in pit loom.



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Beautifully weaved sarees with various designs.



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Products The design is woven on the fabric without the use of dobby, Jala or jacquard. The skill of these weavers is such that without the use of any graph they will be able to create very beautiful designs on the fabrics. This saree is traditional female apparel in the Odisha/Orissa, which is also very popular across India. Sambalpuri is a cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles across India. The price of sambalpuri sarees starts from INR 1000 and varies depending on the designs and fabric used.

Beautifully woven embroidery design of flower on saree.

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Shawl with characteristic design.

Detailed design work on the borders of saree.

Multi-colored designed saree.



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Saree with the contrast color borders.



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Beautifully weaved golden color design on saree.



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Video

Saree Weaving

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/saree-weaving-sam-balpur-orissa/video


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https://youtu.be/k7mzIL9a330

https://youtu.be/k7mzIL9a330

http://www.dsource.in/resource/saree-weaving-sambalpur-orissa/video

http://www.dsource.in/resource/saree-weaving-sambalpur-orissa/video


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Contact Details This documentation was done by Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Manasa K. H. at NID Campus, Bengaluru.

You can get in touch with • Prof. Bibhudutta Baral at bibhudutta[at]nid.edu

You could write to the following address regarding suggestions and clarifications: Key Contacts:Shri Paresh Mehar, Senior Weaver and ProprietorSambalpurOrissaCell phone: - 09937706222

Helpdesk Details:Co-ordinatorProject e-kalpaR & D CampusNational Institute of Design#12 HMT Link Road, Off Tumkur RoadBengaluru 560 022India

Phone: +91 80 2357 9054Fax: +91 80 23373086Email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com

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