s c c october 2013 - society of cosmetic chemists … · “formulating with natural...

2013 MWSCC TECHNICAL SYMPOSIUM

Thursday, October 10, 2013, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Belvedere Events and Banquets, 1170 W. Devon, Elk Grove Village, IL 60007Registration—8:30 - 9:30 a.m.

Symposium—9:30 a.m. - 3:55 p.m.Student Poster Session—9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.

Register online at http://www.midwestscc.org/

$120 for SCC members$130 for non-members

Registration includes program, continental breakfast and buffet lunch.Contact Chris Daraska at: [email protected] for any registration questions.

Speakers

“Plant Stem Cell Technologies,” Sonia Dawson, Croda“Formulating with Natural Surfactants,” Tim Kapsner, Aveda “Natural Actives,” Alban Muller, Alban Muller“Respecting Biodiversity in Sustainability Process,” Dawn Thiel Glaser, Beraca“Ethnic Hair Formulating,” Ali Syed, Avlon Industries“Alphabet Creams,” Larissa Jensen, NPD Group Inc“Investigate NMF in Mature Skin with Raman Spectroscopy for Formulation Development,” David W Koenig, Kimberly-Clark

Poster Session - During the Technical Symposium, a Student Poster Session will be heldfrom 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. Students from across the Nation will present their scientific work.

October 10th Technical Symposium

Next Meeting: November 12thRockwood Tap House

Please RSVP to [email protected] Meeting is FreeDinner is $35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members,$20 for Emeritus and Retired MembersThere will be a $10 no show fee

SCCoop is published 8 times peryear for members of the MidwestChapter of the Society of CosmeticChemists.

Newsletter editor isJanelle Asumang:[email protected] orPhone (317) 544-9204

Advertising rates are $500 annu-ally for each 2 X 2 space. Adver-tising manager Gary Neudahl isyour contact for ad placementand/or waiting list information: [email protected] (708) 594-5058

Printing by Flash Printing, Inc. Franklin Park, IL (847) 288-9101

LOCAL SCC EVENTS

Save the Date:Technical SymposiumOctober 10

2013 MWSCC Dinner andEducation Meetings

November 12

Additional Events

Teamworks 2014April 9, 2014

October 2013 • Vol. XLV No. 7

The Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

This Issue

Tom’s Fireside Chat ........2

Chapter Meeting Venue ..3

Chapter News ..............4-6

OutreachOpportunities..................7

Feature Article........... 8-11

Employment ..................13

S C C O O P

Please send in your membership renewal for 2014 as soon as you can.

SCCMidwest Chapter2013 Board Members

ChairpersonTom [email protected]

Chair - ElectDusanka [email protected]

SecretaryGina [email protected]

TreasurerMichael Mack [email protected]

Area II DirectorsPerry [email protected]

Kelly [email protected]

House ChairLisa [email protected]

Program Co-ChairsDebbie ZartlerPeggy Dorrance Bennett [email protected]

Newsletter EditorJanelle [email protected]

Advertising ManagerGary Neudahl(708) [email protected]

National SCC OfficesFor member address changes:www.scconline.org (212) 668-1500

SCCoop October 2013 • Vol XLV • No. 72

M WSCC

Dear MWSCC,

Greetings again colleagues and friends.We recently enjoyed a great discussionaround patents, IP, copyrighting and howto protect information. The talk was givenby Foley and Lardner, a very prominentChicago area law firm and a friend to ourchapter. It was wonderful to see manynew faces in the room, and impressive tosee how many in attendance currently heldpatents of their own. It was further evidence about the innovativethinking coming out of the MWSCC area!

As my term as Chair is starting to reach the final pages, I want toencourage all of our General Members who have consideredrunning for an elected board position to step forward and makeyourselves known. I have found the experience to be veryrewarding, and I’ve enjoyed getting to know all of you better. If youare interested, please email at [email protected] or [email protected]

Please plan on attending our Technical Symposium on October10th. The speakers will discuss “Formulating for the Future” andwe are featuring some speakers you will not want to miss. You canregister for the meeting on our website, www.midwestscc.org

November is our official end of the year meeting and recap. Wewill be meeting at the Rockwood Tap House in Downers Grove.We will have a brief speaker come in, and then present awards andnew officer installation. We cannot forget that November isEmeritus Month, and dinner fees for our Emeritus members arewaived. I certainly encourage all of our Emeritus members who wehaven’t seen in a while to attend and be recognized!

November is also our Toys for Tots drive. Please remember tobring a new present with you so our friends in the Marine Corpscan pick up the toys and deliver them to needy children. ElaineHarris is organizing this, and we want to make sure the Marineshave more toys to deliver than they can carry!

Teamworks planning is going extremely well, at last count we hadover 85 booths already registered for the event. If your company isconsidering a booth at Teamworks, please sign up soon becausespace is starting to become limited.

I’d like to again call for our artistically inclined members to designus a fresh MWSCC logo that reflects our changing area werepresent. If anyone is interested, please contact me at the chairemail above.

Next year will be our 65th anniversary as a chapter. You may notknow this, but the MWSCC was the very first official chapter of theSCC in the US. We have formed a committee to being assemblinga MWSCC only anniversary book. Anyone interested in helpingplease contact [email protected]

I’m very happy to mention that Gina Cosby has been hard at workwith our newly formed Community Outreach committee. She hasseveral new events planned, so please contact Gina or see her at ameeting to help spread the word about cosmetic science!

Cosmetic Scientifically Yours,Tom

Tom’s Fireside Chat...

The Powder & Dispersion Specialist

Innovation Technology Service

Delivery SystemsFilm FormersSunscreen TechnologyCustom DevelopmentGlobal Manufacturing

DispersionsMicrospheresNatural IngredientsSurface TreatmentsPearlescent Pigments

SCCoop October 2013 • Vol XLV • No. 7 3

Chapter Meeting VenueM WSCC

November 12th MWSCC Chapter Meeting

Schedule: Location:5:00 Board Meeting Rockwood Tap House5:30 Cocktail Hour 3131 Finley Road6:30 Speaker Downers Grove, IL 605157:30 Dinner (630) 964-3131

MenuAppetizers

Cream of Mushroom Soup

SaladLettuce Wedge Salad

Main CoursePrime Rib or Parmesan Crusted

Chicken BreastTwice Baked Potato

Green Beans Almandine

DessertChocolate Sunday

1 Bottle of Merlot on each Table32 selections of beer

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Chapter News M WSCC

September Meeting Photos


Chapter NewsM WSCC

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Chapter News M WSCC

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

The Chapter is always looking for folks to help with running things; everything from finding speakers, helping to planevents, and run for elected office. There are plenty of people who are willing to assist anyone who would like tovolunteer. Your volunteering would not only be beneficial to the Chapter, which of course it would, but can help you todemonstrate your organizational/leadership skills - always helpful when looking to enhance your career.

The Midwest Chapter is what it is today because of those who volunteer their time and energy.

You can help take our Chapter to the next level by making your contribution. If you are interested contact: TomLehman at [email protected] for more information.

Toys for Tots Drive at the MWSCC November Chapter MeetingOnce again, our Chapter has voted to support a “Toys for Tots” Drive at our November Educational Dinner Meeting.The mission of the Marines for Tots Foundation is to help less fortunate children throughout the United Statesexperience the joy of Christmas; to play an active role in the development of one of our Nation’s most valuableresources – our children and to unite all members of local communities in a common cause. We would like to continuehelping this cause, which other SCC Chapters have contributed to in past years.

If you would like to contribute, please bring one or more unwrapped toys to the November 12th meeting. If you wouldlike to make a monetary donation, please go to http://www.toysfortots.org/default.aspx to arrange to make a donation.

Now Accepting Applications for Midwest SCC Chapter 2013Scholarship

The Midwest Chapter Society of Cosmetic Chemists each year offers multiple $1,000 scholarships to undergraduateor graduate students exhibiting excellence in either coursework or research in the fields of chemistry, biology,cosmetic, or allied sciences. Special consideration is given to students actively pursuing careers in cosmetic science.Applicants must have a letter of recommendation from a faculty member where the recipient is attending. Thedeadline for this year's application is October 15, 2013.The application guidelines and form can be found on the MWSCC website at http://www.midwestscc.org/scholarship/.


Outreach OpportunitiesM WSCC

Chemical Industry Council of Illinois (CICI)Career Conference will be held Thursday,

October 17th and Friday, October 18th

The Career Conference is held annually at the Museum ofScience and Industry in Chicago, IL. This three part programis designed to introduce high school and junior high schoolstudents to careers in the chemical industry and scientificconcepts. The program includes a career quiz structured as agame show, a chemistry demonstration entitled “WeirdScience” by Lee Marek, and a hands-on, interactive industryexhibit area.

To date, approximately over 75,000 students have attendedthe Career Conference. The education outreach activities ofthe Chemical Industry Council of Illinois (CICI) are conductedthrough the Illinois Chemical Education Foundation (ICEF), a501(c)(3) not-for-profit foundation.

Volunteers are welcome and necessary to make this eventspectacular! If interested, please notify Gina Cosby byOctober 4th at [email protected].

Chicago Area Chemistry Day

Theme: Energy: Now and Forever!

Exploring chemistry and energy with a focus on sustainableresources

Saturday, October 26, 2013 — 9:30 am to 2:00 PM

Loyola UniversityChemistry Dept/Flanner Hall

6525 N. Sheridan RoadChicago, IL

Free Admission — All ages welcome!

Experiments, Demonstrations, and Exhibits

Sponsored by American Chemical Society (ACS), ChicagoSection

For more information, please contact Chris Daraska [email protected] or Gina Cosby at

[email protected].

A message from our Outreach Chair!

“I am excited to be appointed the Chair of our newly founded CommunityOutreach Committee. I am looking for volunteers to help share our knowledge andpassion for Cosmetic Science with our local communities. To kick off this newcommittee, I am looking for volunteers to participate at various events. The detailsare below! If you are interested in volunteering for this or future events, pleaseemail me at [email protected]. Thank you!” ~ Gina Cosby

We invite you to share your expertise during a

two-day, Museum-wide STEM career event.

You can either talk with students at a hands-on

career station or answer questions about your career and expertise at an “Ask a Scientist” station.

The event is 9 am to 2:30 pm on October 4th and 9 am to 3:30 pm on October 5th.

Breakfast, lunch, and parking will be provided to participating professionals. Museum Entry will beprovided to guests arriving with professionals. At each station, MSI will provide an 8-foot table,black table linen, chairs, wireless internet and access to electricity.

For more information, please visit http://www.msichicago.org/whats-here/events/science-works/


Feature Article M WSCC

Common Fragrance CharactersWhat are they and where do they come from?Introduction Much of the time when a fragrance is received from a fragrance house, some kind of mar-keting description is included. This may take the form of a “pyramid” with top , middle,and base notes listed, or it may be a paragraph-style description of how the fragrancesmells. At times the descriptions may be obvious, while other times it is less clear whatthe description is referring. This describes some common fragrance descriptors and whatthey may translate to.

Fresh Topnotes – Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) Everyone is familiar with the smell of peeling a fresh orange. When the outer orange peelis removed from the fruit, there is often a ne “mist” that fragrances the air and the handswith a characteristic orange smell. In the majority of fragrances with an “orange” descrip-tor, it is in fact this natural oil from the peel of the oranges that is used in the fragrance.

The citrus oil suppliers to the fragrance industry use the orange peels, which are abyproduct of the large orange juice industry, as the starting raw material for orange oil.The peels are pressed between two huge rollers and the resulting liquid is separated intoan aqueous and an oily phase. The oily phase is considered single fold (1X) Orange Oil.The exact composition of the oils depends on the country of origin, but generally it iscomprised of more than 90% d-limonene, and several percent of other terpenes, fattyaldehydes such as octanal and decanal, and some sesquiterpenes. Color bodies mayalso be present.

Additional products may be derived from the single-fold oil. If a percentage of d-limoneneand other terpenes are removed via distillation, this removed product is sold as “orangeterpenes”, which has a slight orangey odor. The product remaining after the removal ofthe d-limonene is considered to be a “folded” orange oil. The amount of the “fold” de-pends on the amount of the terpenes that are removed. Common products include ve-fold (5X), ten-fold (10X) and fteen-fold (15X) orange oils. These oils are quite a bit moreexpensive than 1X oils and have a much darker color, but also have more concentratedorange-like odor than the 1X product.

Oranges used in the fragrance industry are generally grown in Brazil, California, andFlorida. While the crop is generally harvested nearly year-around, variations in price andsupply are common due to weather factors, such as hurricanes and unusually coldweather. There are


Feature ArticleM WSCC

very few substitutes for orange oil, or ways to achieve a natural orange scent withoutusing a least a little of the natural product, and orange remains a mainstay in the fra-grance industry.

Floral Middle Notes – Jasmine (Primarily Jasminium grandiflorum) The “jasmine” descriptor is ubiquitous in fragrance descriptions. Natural jasmine flowersare white, with a strong sweet animalic fruity floral odor. As the flower dies, it turnsbrownish and smells more animalic, which gives a clue about the composition of the ma-terials in the jasmine flower.

While the use of the word “jasmine” is common in the fragrance industry, in fact the use ofnatural jasmine is not quite as common, and it is generally used only sparingly to en-hance a more affordable synthetic floral jasmine note in a fragrance. Jasmine does notyield a commercially-available essential oil, but is used in the form of an “absolute”. Anabsolute is the result of an extraction of the flower with a hydrophobic solvent with thesubsequent removal of that solvent to yield a waxy mass, which is an extract of theflower. This extract is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol. Any material that is not soluble inethyl alcohol is left behind. The alcohol phase is removed and concentrated to form athick dark brown-red liquid. This aromatic liquid is called an absolute. Due to the verylow yield and the amount of steps needed to make jasmine absolute, it is very expensiveand the price fluctuates depending on the season, the year’s crop yield, and other politicalfactors.

There are several botanic sources of jasmine absolute that vary in composition, but gen-erally true jasmine absolute contains the floral chemical benzyl acetate as well as somevery powerful nitrogen-containing chemical such as methyl anthranilate, indole, and ska-tole. Indole and skatole smell very animalic, and give jasmine absolute its rich sultry ani-malic quality that is very pleasing at low concentrations in a fragrance. These materialsturn brown on exposure to light and air, and are the materials responsible for the moreanimalic odor of a jasmine flower past its prime. Methyl anthranilate is a rich grapey-fruitynote, and gives the jasmine much of the rich fruity-floral “jammy” character. Other chemi-cals naturally occuring in jasmine absolute include the beautiful sheer floral jasmonates,the rich floral cresols and jasmones, warm spicy eugenols, and some larger sesquiter-penes which do not add much odor character to the fragrance, but act as a type of fixativeto enhance the longevity of the odor.

Fortunately, jasmine is an odor character that is easily made with synthetic materials, asmost of the components are available in their synthetic form. There are also several pop-ular fragrance materials that are synthetic that are structurally based on the chemicalform of the natural material, such as the sheer floral material methyl dihydrojasmonate,which is a very affordable analog of the naturally occurring extremely expensive soft floralmethyl jasmon

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Feature Article M WSCC

Readily available racemic synthetic forms of the natural isomericallypure natural cis-jasmone also exist, allowing the creation of a very af-fordable synthetic jasmine note that can be enhanced via the use of asmall amount of the natural material

Woody Base Note – Sandalwood (Santalum album) Sandalwood is a popular odor character in personal care products.Sandalwood oil itself has been known for years to impart a beautiful,soft, creamy rich, exotic wood note to fragrances. The essential oil ofsandalwood derived from trees in the East Indies has been used sinceearly times. Unfortunately, the trees must be at least 15 years old toyield much essential oil, and the process to get the oil through steamdistillation is destructive to the tree. The sandalwood trees from theEast Indies have been more or less destroyed in the process of harvest-ing the wood (which is used for decorative and religious items) and theessential oil. Fortunately, Australia has started to plant sustainableplantations of the sandalwood species Santalum Album, and this sourceshould come on-line around 2020. It is not yet known what the yield,quality and amount of oil from this source will be.

Sandalwood oil is composed of more than 50% santalols, which arelarge sesquiterpene alcohols are primarily responsible for the odor char-acter of the sandalwood oil. There is not a good commercial syntheticversion of santalol, but surprisingly there are a plethora of relatively af-fordable and available synthetic materials that mimic the smell of san-talol and sandalwood oil that are used in fragrances today. Unlike injasmine, these materials are not very structurally related to the naturalmaterial whose odor they mimic.

Much research has been done on the structure – odor character of syn-thetic materials. It was noted in the early 1980’s that the materialisobornyl cyclohexanol smelled like sandalwood, although it was notvery strong. This material with other additions was often used to re-place all or some of the sandalwood oil in many fragrances for cost andavailability reasons. Then in the later 1980’s and following years, it wasshown that a structure containing 2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl ringwith an aliphatic side chain containing a primary or secondary alcoholmoiety smelled even more like sandalwood oil.

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11SCCoop October 2013 • Vol XLV • No. 7

Feature ArticleM WSCC

Many of the major raw material suppliers to the fragrance industry researchedand commercialized their own version of a sandalwood note using this ringstructure with various side chains. These materials are quite strong, and onlysmall amounts are needed to give a beautiful natural sandalwood effect. Mix-tures of these materials are especially effective, as each one is slightly differ-ent in odor and can give a different dimension to the odor.

Due to the development of this class of materials, and the availability, cost,and quality of the natural sandalwood oil, very little natural oil is used today.

Summary Fragrance descriptions are an important part of understanding how a fra-grance smells. It is important to understand that the descriptors containedwithin the descriptions may refer to a natural material, a synthetic mixturewith some added naturals, or a completely synthetic accord. Both naturaland synthetic materials remain very important in the creation of fragrance for-mulations.

Jill Costa, Ph.D.

Chief Perfumer

Bell Flavors and Fragrances, Inc.

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Employment News M WSCC

“ASK ROPELLA - THE HEAD HUNTER”

Q: How can I keep my employees happy andimprove job retention?

A: Thanks for the great question. Becoming agood boss takes hard work. The effort invested ismuch less costly than a chronic turnover problem.Here are a few management tips: • Communicate; in addition to communicatingcompany information, it’s critical that you clearly communicateemployee job duties and performance expectations. Listening to youremployees’ wants, needs, and suggestions is equally important. • Trust and Respect; you have to earn trust and respect, the best wayto accomplish that is to show trust and respect to your employees. • Care; it’s essential to support and value your staff as people. Thework/life balance is difficult under the best of circumstances, but whenan employee is dealing with personal situations they need to know youare an ally.• Reach out; share ideas with other managers and employees alike.

Q: What can I do to advance my career and really stand out to myboss?

A: Another terrific question, follow these tips and you’ll stand outagainst your peers. • Set goals; talk to your boss about your ambitions and create afeasible a plan. • Get involved; take an interest in the industry you’re in. Take classes,attend industry events, and build solid professional relationships withyour colleagues. • Make yourself un-replaceable; don’t limit yourself to your jobdescription; always offer to help out in other areas when needed. Goingabove and beyond your duties can really pay off in the value your bossplaces in you as an employee.

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Employment OpportunitiesM WSCC

R&D ChemistAustralian Gold

Australian Gold, LLC is the world's largest manufacturer of tanning lotions and accessories. We are currentlylooking for a Formulation Chemist to join our Indianapolis team! Experience is preferred for this position, butwe’re open to recent graduates as well.

ESSENTIAL DUTIES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

- Formulate new product and reformulate existing products based upon benchmark prototypes, product development profiles, marketing direction and innovative formulation ideas.

- Troubleshoot and problem-solve unresolved or new formula issues.- Conduct research and analysis activities according to applicable government regulations, manufacturing

processes, or other considerations.- Create final ingredient lists and documents needed for finished product release.- Create prototypes and product samples as needed.- Perform formulation, physical and analytical testing as appropriate.

EDUCATION and/or EXPERIENCEBachelor's degree (B. S.) in Chemistry, Biology from four-year college or university (preferred); 0-5 plusyears related experience and/or training; or equivalent combination of education and experience.

If interested, please email Brittani Heald at [email protected]

Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

S C C O O P

Janelle Asumang, Newsletter EditorMidwest SCC Chapter4740 N. Cumberland Ave. #364Chicago, IL 60656

s c c october 2013 - society of cosmetic chemists … · “formulating with natural...

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