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茨城大学学術企画部学術情報課（図書館）　情報支援係

http://www.lib.ibaraki.ac.jp/toiawase/toiawase.html

ROSEリポジトリいばらき　（茨城大学学術情報リポジトリ）

Title SADO ISLAN(SADO-GA-SHIMA) by Takashi Nagatsuka

Author(s) 川村. 安宏 / Farr. Alan

Citation 茨城大学教養部紀要(21): 345-365

Issue Date 1989

URL http://hdl.handle.net/10109/9813

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このリポジトリに収録されているコンテンツの著作権は、それぞれの著作権者に帰属します。引用、転載、複製等される場合は、著作権法を遵守してください。

SADO　ISLAND（SADO－GA－SHIMA）by　Takashi　Nagatsuka

translated　by　Yasuhiro　Kawamura

edited　by　Alan　Farr

Introduction：

Takashi　Nagatsuka（1879－1915），　heir　to　a　farming　landlord，　tanka　poet

and　novelist　loved　traveling・In　1906（39th　year　of　Meiji），　when　he　was　28，

he　traveled　to　Tohoku　and　Echigo　for　about　40　days．　He　visited　Sado　Island

from　Sep．14　through　19．8α｛10駕α加l　is　a　sketch　he　wrote　on　his　Sado　tour

to　llb亡o虚ogお配（November，1907）．　He　spent　s五x　months　revising　his　draft

before　contributing　it　to」駈）εo孟ogお配．　The　work　impressed　Natsume－Soseki

and　led　him　to　ask　Nagatsuka　to　write　a　serial　novel　for　the　Tokyo　Asahi

Newspaper　where　Soseki　was　in　charge　of　the　literary　column．　Thus　Nagatsuka’s

masterpiece露πc1Lε（Earth）was　born．　In　this　sense　Sαdo観απ（∫was　the

seed　for　the　creation　of　7sωcん‘．

Nagatsuka　was　a　nature　lover　with　a　penchant　for　meticulous　observation，

as　is　amply　illustrated　in驚ωc1砿　He　learned　the　importance　of　close　obser一

vation　and　accurate　description　from　his　mentor　Masaoka－Shiki，　whose　teaching

he　practiced　and　developed　fully　in　his　own　writing．　Nagatsuka’s　eyes　were

warm　and　full　of　sympathy　when　he　observed　Nature　and　Men．　His　photographic

description　was　not　a　mere　technique　of　writing．　His　empathy　with　Nature

surrounding　Man　is　evident　in　his　writing．　As　one　reads　Sαdo観απd　one

finds　oneself　seeing　the　white　waves　breaking　around　the　rocks　in　the　offing，

hearing　the　rain　beat　against　the　author’s　hat，　watching　pieces　of　pumpkin

boiling　in　the　pan，　or　walking　up　the　slope　of　a　hill　behind　the　horse－dealer

while　he　brushes　aside　sωs読εfrom　the　path．　Or　one　can　observe　a　passing

shower　ripple　the　surface　of　a　pond　from　one　side　to　the　other，　watch　the

mountains　rise　up　and　down　above’the　village　of　Akadomri　with　the　movement　of

his　boat・That　is・one　will　find　oneself　accompanying　the　author　sharing

the　poet’s　eye・　One　will　also　experience　the　warm　reception　Sado　offered

to　the　author・embodied　by　the　beautiful　girl　of　the　inn　at　Ogi，　the　kind

horse－dealer　Heinai－san・his　pretty　daughter，　the　rustic　villagers　watching

Noh・The　author’s　empathy　with　Nature　and　Man，　so　abundantly　evident　in

346　　　　　t・an・lat・d　by　Y・・uhi・・Kawamu・a・dit・d　by　Alan　Farr

驚ωc1L‘，　is　already　present　in　embryo　in　this　short　sketch　of　Sado　Island．

（1）Sweet　Brier　Bloossoms

In　Sado　it　had　been　raining　continously　for　three　days・　The　road　to

Ogi　P・・t・an　al・ng　the　r・cky　b・ach　with　Man・Bay・n　the　right・1w・nt　my

way　in　g・ntle　rain　th・・ugh・pa・・ely　plant・d　pin・g・・ves　and・everal　fi・hing

villages．　Th・bay　wa・blurred　lik・apane・f　glass　y・u　bl・w　y・u・breath　up・n・

There　must　have　been　some　sunken　rocks　in　the　offing　of　the　calm　bay，　for　at

one　spot　white　waves　were　breaking　in　the　shape　of　a　bank．　It　was　so　distant

that　all　I　could　see　was　the　white　bank　of　waves　and　it　was　quite　motionless．

Daigahana　Promontory　extended　far　south　embracing　the　bay　and　looked　faint　as

in　a　mist．　As　I　walked　along，　the　white　waves　in　the　offing　became　more

distant　and　I　passed　a　few　more　villages．　By　this　time　Daigahana　Promontory

acr。ss　th・bay　had　g・adually　reced・d　and　th・・P・n・ea　b・gan　t・reveal　itself

hazily．　I　ascended　a　gentler　slope　and　then　saw　a　small　fishing　village　just

below　me．　There　were　cut　bamboo　stalks　stuck　in　the　ground　like　a　grove

around　the　houses　near　the　shore．　They　stood　there　with　their　branches　uncut，

but　as　they　were　all　dead　there　was　not　a　leaf　on　them．　It　seemed　that　fac一

ing　th・・pen　sea　the　h・uses　need・d・u・h　f・nces　f・・p・・tecti・n　f・・m　th・wind・・

Sado　was　dreary　wherever　you　went，　but　this　village　was　exceptionally　desolate．

Although　it　was　already　autumn，　I　was　comfortable　enough　in　my　unlined　summer

kimono，　but　this　beach　here　looked　so　desolate　that　it　gave　me　the　impression

of　winter．

Down　in　the　village　the　houses　were　all　squalid，　and　in　one　of　them　a　man

and　wife　were　twisting　thread　for　a　net．　I　asked　them　the　name　of　this　place．

This　was　Nishimikawa，　the　husband　said　in　a　coarse　voice．　A　wooden　sign

under　the　eaves　that　said，“Gosん洗‘（five－color）Gαπd【απ（war－story－telling）”

。aught　my　attenti・n．　Thi・man　wa・a・t・・y－teller・f　war　st・・ies　by　t・ad・but

also　twisted　thread　on　the　side．　That　was　why　his　voice　was　coarse，　I　thought．

Still　not　knowing　what　Gosh掘meant，　I　inquired　further．　Then　I　learned

that　telling　a　war　story　without　samisen　was　ordinary　gμπdαπ，　but　when　accompa一

nied　with　samisen，　it　was　go8ん醐g配π｛ノαπ．　I　then　presumed　that　his　wife

played　samisen　for　him．

Soon　I　came　to　a　stream　which　was　easily　fordable　and　there　was　something

lik。　a　tiny　b・idg・・ver　it．　Cr・ssing　th・b・idg・1・aw　gigantic　r・ck・lut一

ting　tall　out　of　the　sea．　This　area　being　a　Ievel　stretch　of　beach，　they　were

an　unusual　and　striking　sight．　On　the　left　the　hills　close　to　the　sea　suddenly

SADO　ISLAND（SADO－GA－SHIMA）by　Takashi　Nagatsuka　　　　　　　347

dropped　low　to　form　the　beach，　and　along　the　side　of　the　beach　ran　the　road．

On　the　roadside　shrubs　no　taller　than　your　breast　grew　here　and　there　in

clusters．　There　were　red　flowers　blooming　amongst　the　very　green　leaves．

These　were　sweet　briers．　Sweet　briers　are　very　much　like　roses－－their　stems，

branches　and　leaves　are　so　similar．　But　since　they　grow　wild　on　the　seashore

their　branches　and　leaves　are　gnarled　and　this　adds　even　more　to　their　grace　and

elegance．　The　branches　are　thorny，　so　I　softly　plucked　a　flower　with　the

tips　of　my　fingers，　then　it　dropped　into　the　grass　below．　As　I　stooped　to

pick　it　up，　I　felt　the　world　about　me　suddenly　turn　quiet．　Wondering，1

stood　up　to　find　it　as　noisy　as　before．　Tlhis　was　because　when　I　was　walking

the　rain　fell　on　the　sedge　hat　producing　a　continuous　sound　about　my　ears，　but

when　I　bent　myself　the　hat　became　vertical，　thus　reducing　the　sound．1100ked

up　at　the　sky　till　the　hat　became　vertical，　and　sure　enough，　it　became　quiet

again．　I　gathered　as　many　flowers　as　possible，　wiped　the　water　off，　put　them

between　the　leaves　of　my　pocket　notebook　and　shoved　the　whole　thing　into　my

shirt　pocket．

It　was　almost　evening　when　I　got　to　Ogi　Port．　The　previous　night　I

had　stayed　at　a　cheap　inn　at　Aikawa　and　had　decided　it　wasn’t　worth　it，　so

here　I　chose　the　most　pleasant－looking　inn．　A　woman　ushered　me　into　a　front

room　on　the　second－floor．　Soon　she　came　back　with　a　Iit　lamp．　The　dark　room

suddenly　brightened　up．　It　seemed　that　this　inn　had　been　built　just　recently：　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　「?魔?窒凾狽?奄獅〟@from　wood　post　toオαεαmεwas　clean　and　refreshing．　The　polished

chimney　of　the　lamp　was　strikingly　clean．　She　then　served　me　tea．　And　I

noticed　she　was　surprisingly　beautiful．　She　did　not　seem　to　be　more　than

twenty．　Ihad　never　thought　I　would　see　such　a　beautiful　girl　on　such　a

dreary　island　like　Sado．　Ido　not　know　how　to　describe　her　beauty：she　was

just　beautifuL　I　had　walked　in　the　rain　all　day　and　my　summer　kimono　and

uderpants　were　thoroughly　wet．　In　this　shabby　outfit　I　felt　ashamed　before

this　girl．　When　she　slld　the　door　open　to　leave　the　room　I　saw　something

white　about　half　an　inch　wide　showing　under　the　hem　line　of　her　dark　blue

patterned　summer　kimono．　Immediately　after　she　left　I　adjusted　my　dishevelled

oわよ1）But　I　could　not　smoothe　out　the　wrinkled　bottom　of　my　kimono　behind

me　which　I　had　kept　tucked　in　under　the　oわεall　day．　I　took　out　the　flowers

of　sweet　brier　from　my　notebook　and　arranged　them　one　by　one　under　the　lamp．

Iopened　the　sliding　door　and　stepped　out　of　the　room．　Icould　see　the

1）0わ∫：abrQad　Japanese　sash　wound　around　the　waist　over　the　main　kimono　and　tied

at　the　back、

BULLETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．

348　　　　　　　　translated　by　Yasuhiro　Kawamura　edited　by　Alan　Farr

counting　office　down　below　me．　The　first－floor　counting　room　had　no　ceiling

of　its　own；it　shared　the　ceiling　of　the　second　floor．　Outside　the　second一

floor　rooms　there　was　a　corridor　with　a　balustrade　from　which　you　could　see　the

counting　office，　so　it　was　like　looking　down　on　the　stalls　of　a　theater　from　the

balcony．　Beyond　the　counting　room　was　the　kitchen．　There　by　the　stove　the

girl　who　attended　me　was　roasting　a　slice　of　fish　or　something　on』a　skewer．

She　then　pressed　it　on　a　plate　with　chopsticks　to　remove　the　skewer，　took　off

her　cord　which　held　up　her　tucked　sleeves，　and　folding　it　twice　inserted　it

under　her　o配．　She　now　rρse　to　her　feet　with　a　rice　tub　under　her　left　arm，

her　right　hand　holding　a　tray．　Isoftly　shut　the　paper－sliding　door　and　sat　on

the　floor　cushion．　They　had　no　other　guests　apart　from　me　that　night　and　had

not　prepared　any　meal　for　guests，　she　said，　and　I　was　asked　to　make　do　with

the　cold　rice．　So　saying　she　offered　me　rice　boiled　with　adzuki　beans，　piled

up　high　in　a　bowl．　Observing　her　I　noticed　she　wore　a　white　undergarment

under　her　dark　blue　kimono，　and　so　that　was　why　just　before　I　had　seen　some一

thing　white　showing　under　her　kimono．　Her　kimono　had　been　washed　several

times　and　the　dark　blue　color　was　slightly　faded．　Though　clad　in　this　plain，

rustic　kimono　the　girl　sat　there　neat　and　prim．　I　thought，　once　again，　she

was　a　beauty．　Itook　the　chopsticks．　She　noticed　the　sweet　briers　under

the　lamp，　picked　one　up　and　asked　me　where　I　had　picked　them．　I　had　picked

them　on・the　beach　of　Nishimikawa，　I　answered．

“Flowers　are　beautiful．　When　I　see　flowers　I　feel　I　want　nothing

else，”she　said　and　she　put　the　flower　to　her　nose　after　spreading　its　petals

one　by　6ne　with　her　fingers．　“I　can　hardly　believe　such　beautiful　flowers　grow

wild　on　the　beach，”she　said　marveling．　Her　skin　was　fair，　even　to　the　tips

of　her　fingers．　“The　leaves　too　are　no　less　beautiful，”she　really　seemed

impressed．　The　leaves　that　seemed　to　embrace　the　flowers　grew　closely　one

upon　another，　and　their　green　shone　bright　in　the　lamplight．　I　was　somewhat

surprised　that　she　admired　even　the　leaves．　I　took　a　morsel　of　adzuki－rice．

The　cedar　chopsticks　were　thick　and　round　and　of　the　same　thickness　at　both

ends．　I　had　quite　a　time　dealing　with　the　mountain　of　adzuki　rice　before　me．

Clumsily，　I　let　a　lump　drop　near　my　knees．　Embarrassed　at　my　own　blunder

Ilooked　at　the　lovely　girl，　but　absorbed　in　contemplation　of　the　sweet　brier

in　her　hand，　she　did　not　seem　to　have　noticed　anything．

（2）　ABeauty

The　next　morning，　when　the　girl　brought　me　tea　she　was　neatly　dressed　in

、


her　well－creased　dark　blue　kimono　with　an　oわ‘tightly　tied　and　now　her　white

undergarment　was　not　showing．　After　we　exchanged　a　few　words　she　Ied　me　to

the　third　floor．　The　upstairs　room　was　dark　because　the　shutters　were　closed．

The　paper－sliding　screens　were　dimly　white．　Some　thin　rays　of　the　sun　filter一

ing　through　the　clefts　of　the　shutters　were　red　on　the　paper　screens．　The

girl　unfastened　the　shutter　at　the　shutter　box　and　tried　to　draw　it　open．　Rain

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　■?≠п@wet　the　shutter　and　it　would　not　slide　easily．　She　applied　her　strength

with　both　her　hands　on　the　shutter．　When　she　succeeded　in　opening　it　about

two　feet　I　could　see　her　hands　had　turned　red．　Looking　outside　I　saw　the

blue　sky，　transparent　and　cloudless；the　Sado　rain　had　finally　let　up．

This　third　floor　looked　down　on　stretches　of　tiled　roofs，　and　beyond　themthere　was　a　little　bay．　Five　or　six　masts　of　the　anchored　boats　could　be　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　ノ

seen　near　the　shore．　Sakuhino－ura　was　the　name　of　the　bay．　It　was　bordered

on　the　right　by　a　hill　with　fields　that　projected　like　a　promontory．　Beyond

that　point　there　was　a　small　island　overgrown　with　trees．　Pointing　to　the

hill，　the　girl　said．

“What　you　see　over　there　is　fields　under　cultivation．　There　is　a　beach

just　under　that　headland・　The　islands　beyond　are　Ya－jima　and　Kyo－jima，

though　one　of　them　is　not　visible　from　here．　On　this　beach，　just　facing　the

islands，　there　is　a　fountain　of　very　cold　water．　In　summer　people　of　Ogi　go

there　for　picnics　to　eat　cold　80肌eη，（fine　noodlels）．”　Ogi　picknickers　always

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　，狽≠汲奄獅〟@80mθπwith　them　in　summer　is　a　pleasant　story．　I　thought　it　would　be

wonderful　to　see　this　girl，　dressed　in　a　white　summer　kimono　with　her　head

covered　with　a　white　towel，　prepare　80mθη，　in　cold　fountain　water．

In　the　part　of　Ogi　visible　from　this　floor，　the　houses　were　all　new．　In　the

small　vacant　lot　lust　below　us　there　stood　some　burnt　posts．　Close　by　were　the

ruins　of　a　small　storehouse　with　broken　cob　walls　burnt　red．　The　girl　said

this　part　of　Ogi　had　been　destroyed　in　a　big　fire　not　so　long　before．　The

fire　had　started　just　where　the　burnt　posts　stood，　so　this　house　was　the　first

to　burn　and　they　had　no　time　to　carry　anything　out．

“Ican　sew　my　summer　kimonρall　right，　but　a　winter　kimono　is　beyond　my

skill，”she　said：she　had　lost　all　her　wardrobe　in　the　fire．　She　asked　me　where

Iwas　heading　for，　and　I　said：my　destination　was　the　beach　of　Akadomari

but　I　intended　to　drop　in　on　a　horse－dealer　at　Osaki，　which　I　was　given　to

understand　was　on　the　way　to　Akadomari．　I　added　I　had　gotten　acquainted

with　this　horse－dealer　on　the　steamboat　to　Sado　and　we　had　shared　a　room

together　when　we　stayed　overnight　at　Ebisu　Port．　Then　she　said　it　was　not

along　way　to　Akadomari，　so　there　was　no　need　for　me　to　hurry．　Th6n　she　asked．

BULL、ETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．


“The　horse－dealer　is　a　short，　loud－voiced，　man，　isn’t　he？”　Isaid　yes

and　added　he　was　buck－toothed　too．“Once　he　came　with　a　straw　raincoat　on，

covering　his　head．　He　said　he　had　been　overtaken　by　a　shower．　You　know，　in

Sado　we　have　a　raincoat　called　Docん砕m加o（raincoat　for　a　journey）．　It　is

big　enough　to　cover　not　only　your　body　but　also　a　bulky　load　on　your　back．

Though　the　horse－dealer　had　worn　it　over　his　head，　he　was　so　short　that　it

dragged　on　the　ground．　Our　folks　said　there　was　a　walking　raincoat，　and　they

all　had　a　good　laugh”　So　saying　she　laughed　as　if　overwhelmed　by　merriment

as　she　recalled　the　incident．　　I　involuntarity　looked　at　the　girl　and　she

looked　at　me　simultaneously．　Her　eyes　were　still　smilling．　We　two　had　been

looking　outside　from　between　the　opened　shutters．　Our　bodies　were　lightly

touching．　Standing　face　to　face　at　so　close　a　distance　made　me　feel　so　bash一

ful　that　I　turned　my　eyes　away　to　her　mouth．　Her　lips　were　brightl夕rouged．

Having　had　no　experience　of　this　kind　I　just　stood　still　and　listened　to　her．

The　way　she　behaved　was　innocent　and　naive　and　she　showed　no　sign　of　shyness．

This　made　me　all　the　more　conscious　of　her　presence．　To　use　a　simile　she

was　like　a　trumpet　creeper．　The　trumpet　creeper　twines　itself　around　what一

ever　is　at　hand，　say，　round　a　gnarled　pine　trunk．　The　pine　trunk　just　stands

there，　while　the　creeper　climbs　up　and　suspends　its　shoots　from　the　branches

finally　bearing　beautiful　flowers　there．　Like　this　girl　who　talked　on　one

subject　after　another，　the　trumpet　creeper　drops　one　flower　and　lets　another

bloom，　repeating　this　process　with　its　large　red　flowers　until　it　tires．　1

felt　as　if　were　a　pine　trunk　entwined　with　a　trumpet　creeper．　Thinking　to

myself　she　was　just　that，　I　looked　at　her　again．　She　was　now　gazing　intently

at　the．burnt　posts　below　with　her　hands　on　the　rail，　stretching　out　all　four

fingers　of　each　hand．　I　had　a　good　look　at　her　fair　profile．　Observing

her，　I　wished　I　could　stand　for　ever　with　this　calm，　gentle　Sakuhino－Bay

before　me．　Just　then　a　faint　voice　calling　her　from　the　counting　room　was

heard．　The　girl　who　never　tired　of　talking　left　the　third　floor．　Itoo

returned　to　the　second　floor　room　and　sipped　my　tea，　now　cold．

Wh。n　I　w。nt　d。wn　the　stai・、　with　my　tw・bundl・ξlin　my　hand，　th・gi・1

produced　my　leggings　which　she　had　washed　and　dried．　My孟αわεsocks　with　the

heels　worn　out　were　ready　there　too．　Theεαわεwas　still　warm；the　girl　must

have　been　drying　it　over　a　fire．　She　stepped　down　on　to　the　dirt　floor　and

produced　a　new　pair　of　straw－sandals．　Passing　the　straw　cords　through　their

2）The　bundles　are　tied　to　a　cord　at　both　ends　so　that　they　can　be　carried　over　the

shoulder．　This　is　called　7：ソ09αんε．


loops　she　beat　the　sandals　with　a　mallet　to　make　them　easier　to　wear．　Then

she　came　round　behind　my　back　and　tried　to　help　me　throw　my　straw　mat　over　my

bundles．　But　I　declined　her　help，　somehow　feeling　I　could　not　allow　myself

to　let　her　do　this　for　me．　What　made　me　behave　like　this，　I　do　not　under一

stand　when　I　think　of　it　now．　The　mat　was　still　wet　and　hardened　from

yesterday’s　rain．　I　asked　her　how　much　I　owed　her　for　the　sandals．　They

were　a　present　so　there　was　no　charge，　she　said．　She　off6red　to　take　me　to

the　road　to　Akadomari，　and　walked　with　me　for　two　or　three　hundred　yards

until　we　turned　to　the　left　by　an　electric　pole．

“This　road　leads　straight　to　Akadomari．　You　can　not　miss　it，　so　take

your　time　and　enjoy　your　trip．”So　saying　she　bowed．　I　looked　at　her　and　was

deeply　impressed　by　her　beauty　again．

The　road　led　me　to　the　beach．　In　a　thin　mist　beyond　the　sea　I　could　see

Mt．　Yahiko　of　Echigo　province　directly　opposite　me　and　Mt．　Yoneyama　a

little　further　south．　They　stood　high　like　large　islands．　The　sea　was　quite

calm．　The　waves　lapping　around　the　rocks　in　the　offing　glistened　in　the　sun

like　golden　rings．　The　fields　of　buckwheat　near　the　beach　were　completely

covered　with　pure　white　flowers．　The　fields　were　so　close　to　the　sea　that　you

would　think　that　in　the　gentle　ebb　and　flow　the　water　might　reach　as　far　as　the

roots　of　red℃olored　buckwheat　stems．

（3）The　Pumpkin

The　road　now　went　into　the　hills．　Going　along　the　Hamo　River　I　came

to　a　small　patch　of　rice　paddy，　where　water　was　falling　in　a　small　cascade．

By　the　waterfall　stood　a　tall　cedar　tree，　and　from　the　tree，　wisteria　pods

hung　in　abundance　Iike　wax　that　had　melted　and　guttered．　An　old　man　came　by

and　began　to　pray　to　the　waterfall　with　his　hands　clasped．　I　asked　him　if

Osaki　was　still　a　long　way　oflf．

“That’s　right．　This　is　the　Gorα4go　FaUs，”3）he　answered．　The　old

3）Oor砺go：There　is　an　aerographic　phenomenon　called　gorα碧o（which　literally　means

adeity　coming　down　to　welcome　a　spirit）；in　a　high　mountain，　when　you　stand　facing　a

mist　with　the　sun　behind　at　sunrise　or　sunset，　and　when　your　silhouette　is　formed　on

the　mist，　a　red　ring　of　light　sometimes　appears　around　the　head　of　your　silhoutte．

This　reminds　one　of　the　picture　of　Amida　with　a　nimbus　descending　to　welcome　a

departing　spirit　to　Paradise，　hence　the　name　for　this　aerographic　phenomenon．

Probably，　against　the　spray　of　the　falls　a　similar　phenomenon　was　observed，　leading

the　local　people　to　name　it　the　Goraigo　Falls．


352　　　　　　　　　translated　by　Yasuhiro　Kawamura　edited　by　Alan　Farr

man　was　hard　of　hearing．　I　repeated　my　question　in　a　loud　voice．　This　time

he　understood　and　smiled，“Osaki　is　just　a　little　way　from　here．　Have　you

come　to　buy　a　cow　or　something？　You　are　not　yet　twenty，　are　you？　It’s

great，　your　doing　business　at　your　age．”　And　then　he　left．

The　road　ran　along　the　Hamo　River　in　a　narrow　valley．　In　a　roadside

shop　a　cooper　was　hooping　a　large　tub．　I　asked　him　the　way　to　the　horse一

dealer’s　house．　He　told　me　that　if　I　went　a　little　way　back　I　would　find

it　on　top　of　the　slope．　I　went　as　I　was　directed　and　there　was　a　slope　by　a

large　deserted　thatched　hoロse．　At　the　top　of　the　slope　two　pear　trees　stretched

their　limbs　to　the　sky　from　both　sides，　one　tree　with　a　ladder　leaning　against

it．　Green　pear　leaves　were　scattered　under　them．　I　found　the　horse－dealer

munching　a　pear　with　his　legs　stretched　out　on　the　verandah　near　the　sun．

Seeing　me　he　looked　surprised　and　welcomed　me　warmly，　his　large　mouth　wide

open，　his　bdckteeth　showing．　It　was　four　days　since　that　we　had　parted　at

the　inn　of　Ebisu　Port．　As　we　said　goodbye　he　had　told　me　to　be　sure　to

drop　in　at　his　house　when　I　passed　through　his　area，　and　I　had　promised　to

do　so．　Now　he　said：since　he　went　out　every　day　he　told　his　family　that　in

case　I　dropped　in　during　his　absence　they　should　treat　me　nicely　and　take　me

to　the　falls　before　letting　me　go　on　my　way．　He　seemed　to　be　really　delighted

to　see　me．

Sitting　down　on　the　verandah，　I　looked　at　the　yard，　where　I　saw　a　straw

mat．　There　were　bright　leaves　of　fringed　iris　spread　on　it，　and　on　the　leaves

were　two　bundels　of　red－dyed　thread　placed　there　to　dry．　Beyond　the　mat　stood

kidney　beans　randomly　propped　up　with　supports，　and　though　the　Iower　leaves

were　withered　and　yellow　they　still　had　pods　on　them．　The　horse　dealer

spread　a　mat　on　the　wooden　floor．

“1’ll　take　you　to　Akadomari．　The　host　of　the　inn　of　Akadomari　is　a

very　knowledgeable　man　and　is　very　fond　of　talking，　My　fellow　horse－dealer

from　Echigo　is　there　now．　He　says　he　is　going　home，　maybe　tommorrow．1’11

ask　him　to　take　you　on　his　boat．　So　just　relax　and　have　a　good　rest　here　with

us．” @So　taking　off　my　sandals　I　stepped　on　to　the　floor．　Some　work　clothes

and　dirty　kimono　hung　in　disorderly　fashion　around　the　room．　Chains　of　soot

hung　from　the　ceiling．　The　shelf　for　spools　hanging　from　the　sooty　ceiling

was　black　as　if　lacquered．　On　the　shelf　stood　bamboo　spits　on　which　skinned

vipers　had　been　skewered　and　were　drying．　The　only　thing　white　in　this　room

was　the　vipers　on　the　skewers．　The　horse－dealer　offered　me　the　basket　of　pears，

saying　they　had　just　been　picked，　while　he　himself　using　his　hand　wiped　the

one　he　had　been　eating　and　kept　on　munching　it，　peel　and　all．　Since　my　thumb


nails　were　long　I　tried　to　peel　a　pear　with　the　tips　of　my　nails　little　by

little．　Small　bits　like　pin　heads　fe11，0ne　by　one，　on　the　wooden　floor．

The　horse－dealer　commented，“That’s　the　slow　way，　isn’t　it？”and　watched　me

for　some　time，　but　then　saying，“Ishould　have　given　you　a　knife，”he　produced

adirty　knife　and　wiped　it　with　his　hand　for　me．　Taking　a　bite　I　thought

the　pear　was　like　a　stone．　Just　then　a　thirteen－or　fourteen－year－old　girl，

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　．垂窒盾b≠b撃凵@the　horse－dealer’s　daughter，　came　in　through　the　back　door　with　a

pumpkin　in　her　arms．　She　came　in　at　the　right　monlent，　he　said，　and　with　the

apology　that　unfortunately　his　wife　happened　to　be　out，　the　horse－dealer　stood

up　and　made　a　fire　with　some　wood　chips．　The　fireplace　was　right　next　to　me，

one　step　lower　than　the　wooden　floor．　The　girl　began　to　cut　the　pumpkin　in

silence．　The　hard　pumpkin　was　too　hard　for　the　little　girl’s　knife．　Putting

adish　cloth　on　the　back　of　the　knife　she　apPlied　all　her　strength　to　the　knife，

and　the　pumpkin　was　finally　split　in　two．　She　lowered　the　pothanger　about

afoot　and　hung　a　pot．　The　pile　of　sliced　pumpkin　was　put　into　the　pot　and

the　wet　lid　was　placed　on　top．　The　flame　branched　into　four　at　the　bottom　of

the　pot　and　each　rose　as　high　as　the　bail．　Light　vapour　began　to　rise　from　the

yellow　pumpkin　as　if　rising　from　the　deep　bottom　of　the　earth．　Soon　when　the

pot　began　to　boil　briskly，　the　lid　that　had　been　on　top　of　the　pumpkin　pieces

dropped　to　the　level　of　the　pot．　The　girl　broke　the　burning　end　of　a　chip　with

long　tongs　and　pushed　the　wood　forward，　making　the　fire　blaze　vigorously．　The　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　帥№奄窒窒刀@small　body　was　clothed　in　a　small　tight－sleeved　dress　and　she　supported

herself　on　her　knees．　A　pretty　fair　face　peeped　from　between　the　red　neck一

bands．　She　was　so　pretty　that　you　wouldn’t　believe　she　was　the　horse－dealer’s

child．　The　fingers　of　her　hands　in　which　she　held　the　tongs　were　as　red　as

if　dyed　at　their　tips．　The　pot　continued　to　boil，　while　drops　of　soup　flew　in

all　directions．

“The　pumpkin　looks　really　good，”Isaid．

“Ihave　no　idea　how　you　can　like　such　stuff，”said　the　girl　incredulously．

“If　you　care　for　unpalatable　food，　marry　a　Sado　girl　and　live　here　as

many　as　ten　days．”the　horse－dealer　laughed，　wide－mouthed．

The　smoke　streamed　toward　her，　so　she　narrowed　her　smiling　eyes，　and　still

holding　the　long　tongs，　she　leaned　her　body　back．

（4）　The　Ox’s　Packsaddle

Ifollowed　the　horse－dealer　up　a　hil1．　He　wore　straw　sandals　without

socks．　I　noticed　there　were　red　swellings　with　white　dots　of　pus　on　his　heels．



Ifollowed　him　with　my　eyes　fixed　on　the　swelhngs．　Again，　today，　the　horse－@　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　4｝р?≠撃?秩@had　his　hαcん加αゐ‘knotted　around　his　forehead．　When　we　were　aboard

the　steamboat　sailing　to　Ebisu　Port　he　had　worn　it　all　the　time．　A　deep

gorge　lay　below　his　feet　where　he　stopped．　In　the　distance，　among　the　thick

foliage　could　be　seen　a　cascade　which　looked　like　a　bundle　of　white　thread

divided　and　hanging　down．　The　falls　seemed　to　be　quite　high，　but　neither　the

top　nor　the　bottom　of　the　falls　was　visible，　as　it　was　hidden　by　the　branches．

This　was　the　Shiraiwao　Falls，　the　horse－dealer’s　pride．　Did　I　want　to

go　down　to　the　basin　of　the　falls，　he　asked．　I　wanted　very　much　to，　I　answered．

Then　he　immediately　started　off　down　the　slope，　elbowing　his　way　through　the

flowering　buckwheat．　The　buckwheat　field　was　on　a　steep　slope　and　we　had　to

zigzag　our　way　to　avoid　fa11ing．　We　reached　the　stream　and　waded　along　the

narrow　stream．　Where　there　were　rocks　we　jumped　from　one　to　another．　If　the

water　was　deep　we　kept　close　to　the　side　of　the　stream　treading　the　sμs漉εgrass　　　　5）窒盾盾狽刀@with　our　sandaled　feet．　Our　feet　often　slipped　on　the　8αsω続roots．

If　the　horse－dealer　slipped，　the　spot　became　even　more　slippery　for　me．　When

we　slipped　we　grabbed　at　thistles，　s配s漉ε，　or　anything　to　support　ourselves．

“The　badgers　here　were　called　Sado　badgers　because　of　their　great　number

and　there　used　to　be　a　whole　lot　of　their　lairs　around　here．　But　they　were

all　shot　by　hunters　and　we　see　none　at　all　now，”my　compaion　mumbled　to　himself

as　he　went　on　his　way．　Finally　we　arrived　at　the　bottom　of　the　falls．　Look一

ing　up　I　could　see　only　the　lower　part　of　the　falls　that　had　previously　been

hidden，　while　the　rest　of　the　falls　was　still　not　visible．

“It’s　a　pity　that　the　falls　do　not　have　enough　water，”Isaid．

“When　the　thaw　sets　in，　if　you　stand　where　you　were　just　before，　you　can

enjoy　a　splendid　view，　with　lots　of　water　and　with　no　leaves　to　obstruct　your

view，”the　horse－dealer　explained　by　way　of　an　excuse．　We　turned　back　making

our　way　through　thorny　shrubs．　When　I　stooped，　my　bundles　swung　and　hit　my

chest　and　the　mat　on　my　back　hung　forward．　The　cold　spray　from　the　waterfall

4）んαcん伽αん‘：atwisted　hand　towel　worn　around　a　person’head．　Wearing　aんαc痂mαん‘

knotted　around　the　forehead　is　the　style　that　suggests　the　wearer’s　high　spirts　and

　　　，窒浮唐狽撃メ@nature．

5）8召s嘘‘：agramineous　plant　such　as　eulalia　and　cogongrass，　with　basal　and　dentate

leaves　and　hairy　panicles　like　those　of　pampas　grass　in　autumn．　It　grows　about

six　feel　tall　and　is　used　for　thatching．　In　this　translation　we　use　the　word“ear”

to　denote　the　panicle，　i．e．，　the　cluster　of　flowers，　of　8α8ω観because　it　resembles

the“ear”of　rice，　wheat　etc．


fell　on　my　lower　back　where　I　had　tucked　up　the　skirts　of　my　kimono．　The

horse－dealer　this　time　took　a　different　route　and　climbed　up　through　the　8配8納‘

grass．　He　brushed　aside　the　grass　to　his　left　and　right　with　his　hands　and

stepped　on　them　a　few　times　as　he　advanced．　I　followed　close　upon　his　heels

in　order　to　pass　before　the　grass　blocked　my　way．　I　had　to　be　careful　not　to

get　my　eyes　scratched　by　the　mat　on　my　companion’s　back．　At　long　last　when

we　got　to　a　small　trail，　my　fingers　were　stained　with　blood．　Then　we　found

ourselves　at　a　small　paddy．　Since　it　was　on　the　hilltop　the　paddy　was　only

the　size　of　five　or　six　mats　used　for　drying　rough　rice．　I　Ieft　my　things　on

the　levee　and　followed　my　companion　by　holding　on　to　the　trees　until　we　came

to　the　crest　of　the　falls．　The　water　of　the　falls，　I　learned，　was　the　very

water　running　by　the　paddy　in　a　channel　about　two　feet　wide．　Atall　8ん加α

tree　slanted　itself　over　the　gorge　from　the　head　of　the　falls．　My　short

companion　skillfully　climbed　to　the　top　of　the　tree　like　a　monkey．　I　climbed

after　him．　The　top　of　the　tree　swung　to　and　fro　under　the　weight　of　us　both．

Below　me　yawned　a　deep　gorge　and　I　felt　as　if　I　was　suspended　high　up　in　the

air．　The　other　side　of　this　deep　gorge　was　the　slope　I　had　descended　to

reach　the　foot　of　the　falls．　That　side　was　covered　with　buckwheat　flowers　in

full　bloom．　Generally，　on　the　hillsides　of　Sado　either　buckwheat　or　beans

were　grown．　Otherwise　8配8αん‘grass　grew　thick　and　wild．　According　to　the

horse－dealer，　what　they　did　was　clear　the　hillsides　and　break　soil，　and　when

the　cut　shrubs　and　grasses　were　dead　and　dried，　they　burnt　them　and　scattered

buckwheat　seeds　or　beans．　That　explained　the　burnt　trees　I　saw　standing

here　and　there　in　the　buckwheat　field．　Viewed　from　our　suspended　position　in

midair，　only　part　of　the　top　of　the　falls　was　visible．　At　all　events　I　must

say　this　waterfall　was　quite　impossible．

Leaving　the　falls　behind　we　soon　came　to　a　small　pond，　where　rushes　were

growing　and　beneath　which　was　a　small　submerged　island　like　a　washtub　laid

upside　down．

“There　is　a　legend　about　that　island．　It　is　a　strange　fact　that　spring

water　gushes　from　there　and　never　runs　dry　even　in　a　drought，”remarked　my

companion．　He　continued，“Once　an　itinerant　priest　was　chanting　by　this

pond．　A　few　children　who　had　come　with　an　ox　to　cut　the　grass　happened　to

be　there．　They　heard　the　chanting．　After　the　priest　lef℃　they　lowered

the　packsaddle　and　hitting　it　as　a　drum，　mimicked　the　priest　and　chanted

10udly・Then　the　packsaddle　began　to　dance　on　the　grass　and　then　jumped　into

the　pond　and　was　transformed　into　an　island　under　the　water．　This　is　the

story　of‘Packsaddle　Island∵’



Anight　heron　suddenly　alighted　and　sat　still　in　the　rushes．　Then　all

at　once　a　shower　came．　As　it　passed　over，　the　surface　of　the　pond　rippled　from

one　end　to　the　other．　The　heron　rose　guietly　and　perched　on　a　drooping　branch

near　the　shore。　As　the　shower　passed，　the　surface　of　the　water　became　quiet

again．　Raindrops　falling　from　the　leaves　of　the　trees　by　the　edge　of　the

pond　formed　large　circles　on　the　water，　and　insects　moving　on　the曲rface　of

the　pond　made　smaller　ones．

（5）　Village　Noh

After　the　shower　the　sun　shone　brightly　on　the　wet　grass。　As　we　walked

along，　the　mats　on　our　backs　grazed　the　ears　of　the　sα8ωん‘grass　that　covered

the　trail　from　both　sides．　The　cold，　wet　ears．of　the　grass　that　my　companion

had　flattened　down　as　he　went　along，　bent　back　and　touched　my　cheeks　from　time

to　time．　As　we　tramped　along　the　ridge　of　the　hill，　the　ocean　appeared　above

the　ears　of　the　grass　and　presently　it　came　into　full　view．　Perhaps　because

of　the　sunlight　the　sea　had　taken　on　a　deep　blue　hue．　Beyond，　there　was　a

clear　view　of　Mt．　Yahiko　and　it　appeared　so　near　that　I　could　almost　count

its　folds，　and　behind　it　stretched　serried　rows　of　Echigo　mountains，　equally

distinct．　Not　far　from　the　foot　of　the　hills　we　were　traversing，　I　saw　a

boat　with　a　white　triangular　sail　slowly　sailing　on　the　blue　waters．　In　the

sunlight　its　white　sail　was　dazzling．　The　horse－dealer　forecast　more　fine

weather　for　the　next　day．　We　descended　the　hill　elbowing　our　way　down　through

the　8ω8醜‘grass．　The　view　of　the　sea　became　narrower　with　every　step，　until

the　sea　had　disappeared　entirely　behind　the　trees．　Then　we　came　to　a　small

paddy．　Suddenly　my　companion　shouted．　“Ah，　Noh　plays！”and　broke　into

alittle　run．　Without　knowing　what　this　was　all　about　I　ran　after　him．

Just　as　we　were　about　to　enter　a　thick　grove　along　the　paddy，　faint　sounds

of　flutes　reached　my　ears．　After　a　few　steps　I　saw　a　large　temple　standing

in　the　grove．

Alarge　number　of　people　crowded　the　corridors　of　the　main　building．　On

both　sides　of　the　entrance　where　people　took　off　their　footwear，　some　old

women　had　pitched　stalls　and　had　put　someαんεわ‘and　confectionary　on　display．

Seeing　the　horse－dealer，　one　of　the　old　women　addressed　him．

“You　are　very　welcome，　Hainai－sanρBut　you’ve　missed　the　first　two　・　　　　　　　　，，

oleces・

6）－sαηis　an　honorific，　used　here　to　express　familiarity．


“Have　I？　Well，1’ve　brought　a　guest　to　Akadomari，”the　horse－dealer

said　in　his　usual　loud　voice　and　took　off　his　sandals．　I　waded　into　a　sea　of

・1・韻・catt・・ed　higgl・dy－pig91edy　by　the　entrance　and　unfa・t・ned　my、anda1。．

A・lmad・my　way　up　th・・tair・with　my　bundl・・in　my　hand，1・aw　a　piece。f

paper　posted　above　the　heads　of　the　people　standing　in　my　way．　It　said

“P・・gram”・It　al…aid　th・thi・d　play　wa・瓶漁α（Mii－T。mp1。）．

“L・ave　y・u・thing・here・”in・t・u・t・d　my・・mpani・n　a・h・t・・k　my　baggag。

and，　tying　his　sandals　and　mine　together，　he　left　them　all　with　the　old　woman

We　finally　stood　behind　a　solid　wall　of　people．　Inoticed　that　this　main

building　had　just　been　built　and　that　the　walls　had　not　yet　been　given　their

final　coat　of　plaster．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　，

People　packed　the　space　to　the　left　and　right　of　the　wooden　floor　in　the

center　of　the　hall．　In　the　corridors　people　at　the　front　were　all　seated．

There　were　women　and　children　in　the　audience　and　even　little　children　sat

qui・t・n　th・1ap・f　their　elders・Facing　u・hung　a　white　cu・tain，　and　neatly

seat・d　b・f・re　it　were　a　1・an・ld　man，　P・・bably・ver　seventy，　with　a　t。pkn。t，

and　a　young　man：both　were　clothed　in　old　ceremonical　dresses．　Their　drums

lay　by　th・i・・id・・Cl・se　t・the　cu・tain　were　seat・d　f・u・・r　five　m。re　pe。P1。．

In　the　corner　of　the　wooden　floor，　nearer　to　us，　there　stood　a　structure　built

・fb・nt　green　bamb・・repre・enting　a　t・wer，　in　whi・h　hung　a。mall　b。11．　Fr。m

the　bell　a　long　cord　hung　suspended　and　reached　the　floor．　This　was　all　there

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　脚翌≠刀@on　the　stage　in　the　main　building．

Presently　the　old　man　picked　up　his　drum　and　placed　it　onto　his　knees

whi1・th・y・ung　man　lift・d　hi・・nt・hi・1・ft・h・ulder．　A　red・・rd　d。。。ped

from　the　old　man’s　knees．　Straining　his　voice　to　utter　shouts　which　resembled

the　s・und・・f　bamb・・1・aves　being　crumpl・d　in　y・u・palm・，　th・・ld　man、1。wly

・aised　hi・right　hand　t・th・full　1・ngth　and・t・u・k　hi・d・um，　P・・ducing　a　wha。k．

Th・y・ung　man・・h・uting　in　a　deep・・ice，　hit　hi・d・um　a。lant　fr。m　b。1。w，

P「・du・ing　a　p・P・Whil・they　were　thu・beating　th・i・d・um・alternately，　th。

　　　　　■モ浮窒狽≠撃氏@on　the　left　was　rolled　up　and　a　player　appeared　wearing　a　wicker　hat

and　carrying　a　twig　of　green　bamboo　gras♂）in　his　right　hand　over　his　shouldeL

Ith・ught　t・myself　h・mu・t　have　been　th・derang・d　w・man・f　M娩mpZ81

7）Atwig・f　b・mb・・9・ass・the　symb・1・f　i・・anity　in　N・h　pl。y，．　　　　　　　　’

8）M‘‘伽・aN・h　pl・y・auth・・unk・・w・．　Th・・t・・y　i、、　A　m。th。，　wh。se　s。n脱nmit、u

had馳・n　kidnapP・d・・nfined　herself　i・Kiy・mi・u－T・mp1・t・P，ay　f。，　Kann。n，　th。

G・dess・f　Mercy・f・ゴassi・tance　i・her　search　f・・her　s。n．1。　h。，　d，eam、h。　wa、

t・ld　t・9・t・Mii－T・mp1・・On　a　f・11　m…　night・f　A。g。、t　th。　aut。mnal　m。。n一



She　walked　slowly　in　a　fixed　posture　about　two　yards　until　she　reached　the

wooden　floor．　Then　facing　us　she　advanced　just　as　slowly．　The　deranged

woman’s　costume　was　splendid，　really　beautiful　and，　moreover，100ked　very　old．

She　thrust　her　left　arm　straight　out　holding　the　sleeve　tight　with　her　four

fingers．　Icould　see　the　tips　of　her　whiteεαわ‘socks　clearly　as　she　slid

along　on　the　floor　step　by　step．　From　under　her　hat　which　she　had　discarded

with　the　bamboo　grass，　a　mask　with　a　warm　expression　appeared．　The　white一

painted　mask　looked　antique　as　well．　The　fillet　worn　around　the　forehead　of

the　mask　hung　straight　behind　the　head．　The　actor’s　laws　partly　showed　under

the　mask　and　were　dripping　with　sweat．　A　man　by　the　curtain　stood　behind　him

and　wiped　off　the　sweat　with　pieces　of　paper．　The　deranged　woman　advanced

slowly，　her　feet　clad　in　white　socks　and　she　proceeded　to　dance　around　the　wooden

floor　to　the　chanting　of　a　Noh　song　that　sounded　like　the　croaking　of　frogs．

Though　the　movement　was　very　slow　the　dance　seemed　to　be　very　laborious，　for

her　hands　were　shaking　all　the　time　while　she　danced．

“Isn’t　there　a　child’s　part　in　M‘‘－1セmμe？”　Iheard　someone　say

near　me．　Turning　around　I　saw　a　man　standing　beside　me　talking　to　his

　　　　　　　oモ盾高垂≠獅撃盾氏E

・Here　he　is．”　The　one　who　spoke　pointed　in　front　of　him　to　a　child　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　一р窒?唐唐?п@in　white　who　was　sitting　just　beyond　the　doorway　among　the　audience．

“Iunderstand　she　is　the　cooper　of　Ogi，”the　man　remarked，　pointing　to　the

d。g，ang。d　w・man．　Suddenly　I　recalled　the　c・・per　wb・wa・h・・ping　a　tub　that

morning　when　I　visited　the　horse－dealeL　And　I　could　not　help　admiring

the　fact　that　the　noble　old　custom　of　performing　Noh　was　thriving　among　these

simple　craftsmen．　Presently　the　woman　slid　a　few　steps　back．　Holding　out

her　right　hand　in　which　she　held　a　fan　and　putting　her　right　foot　forward，　she

thrust　her　hips　back，　and　cast　a　sharp　masked　glance　up　at　the　green　bamboo

tower．

“How　fascinating！”　I　heard　another　voice　next　to　my　ear　exclaim

enthusiastically．　Turning　slightly，　I　saw　the　horse－dealer　standing　there

enraptured，　with　his　mouth　agape，　and　with　his　head　tied　in　aんαcん‘mα玩tilted

　　」

魔奄?翌奄獅〟@party　was　held　at　Mii－Temple　and　the　priest　attended　it　accompaied　by

an　a，・lyt・．　There　an　i・・an・w・man　apP・a・ed・Sh・w・・th・m・ther　searchi・g　f・・

Senmitsu：her　sorrow　had　driven　her　insane　She　talked　about　her　sorrow　and　struck

the　bell　to　pray　for　Buddha’s　help．　By　and　by　she　learned　the　acolyte　was　none

other　than　her　son　Senmitsu．　The　reunion　brought　her　sanity　back．　They　went

home　together　and　had　a　happy　life　together．


to　the　side．　When　the　play　was　over，　the　crowd　in　the　main　building　became

restless．　The　program　continued　and，　after　the　next　play」研αc痂πoん‘2）a　straw

rope　was　stretched　around　the　four　corners　of　the　wooden　floor　and　lamps　were

hung　from　it．　Some　of　the　audience　rose　from　their　seats　and　in　front　of　us

it　became　less　crowded．　The　horse－dealer　had　moved　forward　as　far　as　the

doorway　and　was　talking　with　an　old　man　with　white－gray　hair．　When　he　saw　me

he　said　to　me．

“Tlomorrow　this　man　is　returning　with　his　cows　to　Echigo　by　boat，　so　I

suggest　that　you　ask　him　to　take　you　with　him，”and　then　he　introduced　me　to

the　man．　The　two　men　discussed　cows　mixing　the　largaon　of　their　trade．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　10｝geinai－san，　putting　his　hand　in　the　other　man’s　sleeve　and　grasping　his　hand，

simply　exclaimed　in　his　habitual　booming　voice，“You’ve　knocked　down　theprice　too　much，”and　saying　no　more，　he　turned　his　head　to　the　side．　Suddenly　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　11）

drums　sounded　and　another　play動παわeπんε‘began．　Benkei，　who　was　standing

on　the　wooden　floor　and　Shizuka，　who　came　in　when　the　curtain　was　rolled　up，

began　a　leisurely　conversation　Benkei　was　a　tall　man　with　a　finely－trimmed

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　，高盾浮唐狽≠モ??@blinking　his　eyes　from　time　to　time．　When　Shizuka　crouched　down

in　the　center　of　the　floor，　a　man　near　the　curtain　behind　her　placed　a　gold一

colored　hat　on　her　head．　The　man’s　face　looked　familiar．　When　I　looked

9）伽c配πoん‘：aNoh　play，　said　to　be　authored　by　Zeam

10）Putting　one’s　hand　into　the　other’s　kimono　sleeve　to　hold　his　hand　and　discussing

business　such　as　price　so　as　to　be　unseen　and　unheard　by　others，　was　practioed　among

peoPle　of　some　trades．

11）Fωηαわθπんε‘：aNoh　play，　authored　by　Kanze　Nobumitsu．　The　story　is：Hos一

tility　developed　between　Minamoto－no－Yoritomo．　the　founder　of　the　Kamakura

shogunate　and　his　half　brother　Yoshitsune，　a　military　genius，　who　had　destroyed　the

Heike　clan　at　the　sea　battle　of　Dannoura　in　1185　　1n　order　to　bide　his　time

Yoshitsune　and　his　party　decided　to　sail　to　Kyushu．　His　sweetheart　Shizuka

followed　him　as　far　as　Daimotsu－no－ura（Amagasaki，　Hyogo）．　But　persuaded　by

Benkei，　his　monk　warrior，　Yoshitsune　told　Shizuka　to　wait　for　his　return　in　Kyoto

and　held　a　feast　for　her　She　danced　a　farewell　dance．　Soon　after　the　party　set

sail　the　boat　was　caught　in　a　storm，　and　the　ghosts　of　the　Heike　clan　appeared

and　attacked　them，　trying　to　drown　the　party．　The　ghost　of　General　Taira－no一

Tomomori，　wielding　his　halberd　challenged　Yoshitsune　to　combat；a　fierce　fight

ensued．　Benkei　invoked　Buddha’s　protection　by　praying　with　his　rosary．　His

request　was　heard　and　the　ghosts　disappeared

BU1、LETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．


closely，　he　turned　out　to　be　the　same　host　of　the　inn　at　Ogi　where　I　had

stayed　the　night　before．　He　looked　so　proper　wearing　a　ILαんαmα（formal　divided

skirt）that　I　had　not　recognized　him　at　first．　I　mentioned　this　at　once　to

my　companion，　the　horse－dealer，　who　replied．

“That’s　right．　He　played　the　leading　role　in　正血cゐ‘η，oん‘．　He　danced

very　well．” @Shizuka　in　her　gold－colored　hat　danced　round　and　rou血d，　softly

sliding　forward　her　feet　clad　in　whiteεαb‘．　The　lamps　hanging　at　the　four

corners　of　the　stage　shone　on　her　glittering　hat　and　costume，　making　a　beautiful

spectacle．　“That　is　the　stone　mason　of　Ogi．　He　can　act　in　any　support

role，”said　the　horse－dealer．　After　Shizuka　retired，　the　ghost　of　Tomomori

came　on　stage　brandishing　a　halberd．　Occasionally　his　halberd　almost　hit　the

lamps，　each　time　the　blade　flashing　brightly．　Observing　closely　I　saw　the

blade　was　covered　with　silver　leaf　and　that　it　was　crumpled　here　and　there．

Tomomori，　his　face　half－covered　with　a　red　cloth，　was　fighting　a　fierce　battle，

his　eyes　cast　down　and　his　long　hair　hangig．　Benkei　repeatedly　rubbed　his

rosary　between　his　palms　for　all　he　was　worth．　The　horse－dealer　suddenly

shouted　out，“This　Benkei　doesn’t　even　know　how　to　shake　the　tassels　of　a

rosary．” @If6ared　he　might　have　been　heard　by　Benkei　himself．　Close　to

the　edge　of　the　wooden　floor，　a　child　on　its　mother’s　lap　dropped　a　pear　from

its　hands，　frightened　by　the　halberd．　It　went　rolling　to　the　center　of　the

floor．

Outside，　dusk　had　fallen　but　it　was　not　quite　dark　yet．　The　old　women

began　closing　their　shops．　Earlier　I　had　noticed　an　old　woman　with　a　box

containing　some　buns　with　bean－jam　filling，　placed　on　camellia　leaves，　so　I

now　bought　several　of　them　from　her．　She　said　they　were　called　camellia

dumplings．　Carrying　my　sandals　andεαわ‘socks　in　my　hand　I　was　led　to　the

inn　by　my　companion．　On　the　way　he　told　me　there　had　been　teachers　of　two

Noh　schools　in　Sado・When　he　was　young，　Heinai－san　used　to　join　his

teacher’s　troupe　when　they　put　on　their　Noh　plays．　Later　his　teacher’s

school　went　into　decline　but　the　other　school　whose　performance　we　had　seen

that　day　was　still　thriving．　Heinai－san’s　teacher　had　had　in　his　possession

amask　of　an　old　man，　a　masterpiece　of　its　kind，　which　he　had　greatly　treasured．

It　was　generally　said　to　be　worth　one　hundred　1ッo．　But　five　or　six　years

ago，　his　house　and　storehouse　had　been　washed　away　by　a　flood　and　this　master一

piece　had　been　lost．　This　mask　had　probably　been　washed　away　into　the　sea，

for　later　a　fisherman　found　it　cast　ashore　on　the　beach．　But　its　nose　had

been　broken　off　and　the　masterpiece　had　none　of　its　former　beauty．

This　was　the　first　time　in　my　life　that　I　had　seen　a　Noh　performance．

SADO　ISLAND（SADO－GA－SHIMA）by　T・k・・hi　N。g。t、uk。　　　　361

Ihad　never　dream・d　that　N・h　w・uld　be　stag・d　in　an・ut－・f－th。．way　haml。t

・nthe　s・lita・y　i・land・f　Sad・・Th・audi・nce，　a・fa・a・1。。uld　mak。。ut，

were　m・・tly　fa・mers・・fi・herm・n　and　I　was　su・p・i・ed　that　th。y，　and　even

their　children，　watched　quietly　during　the　performance．　In　real　life　the

act°「s　were　c・・per・・t・n・ma・・n・and　inn－keeper　am・ng・ther・，　y・t　th・y　play。d

th・ir　r・les　in　a　rea・・nably　dignifi・d　and　p・・per　manner．　H・inai－san　wh。　alwayS

wore　a　ILαcゐ‘mαんεaround　his　forehead　was　welLversed　in　Noh．　From　this

Ifelt　that　th・p・・pl・・f　thi・i・1and　were　sen・itive　and　g。。d．natured．　Th。

kind　treatment　given　t・m・by　th・h・rse－d・aler　f・・m　th・day　w・m・t，　th。　gift

・fan・w　pair・f・t・aw－sandal・・n　my　d・pa・ture　f・・m　th・inn，　th・wa・hing　d。ne

for　me　by　the　beautiful　girl　of　the　inn　at　Ogi，　all　these　kindnesses　were

the　sign・f　th・i・g・ner・us　spi・it・Alway・kn・wing　that　Sad・wa・f。。merly

th・i・land　where　many　bani・h・d・・iminal・were　sent，　l　wa・th・・f・re　su。p。ised

t・find　th・pure　atm・・phere・f　th・i・1and　had　apParently　been　unaffect・d　by

th・ir　un・a…yinflu・nce・That　night，　t・・，　my・・mpani。n，　th。　h。rse．d。aler，

stayed　with　me　at　the　inn．

Thi・wa・Akad・ma・i・th・fi・hing・illag・・PP・・it・t・Terad・ma・i　in　E。hig。．

（6）Straw－Sandals

While　dozing　at　dawn　I　heard　rain　spattering　on　the　eaves．　I　dozed

again　and　th・n　waking・・ai・ed　my　h・ad　t・find　th・h・rse－d・aler　already　up，　o　　　　　　　　■

唐撃狽狽撃獅〟@on　the　bed　smoking．　Another　rainy　day？　Iasked．　No，　good

weather，　my　companion　said　and　opened　the　sliding　screen　to　show　me．　That

had　just　been　passing　rain．　The　guests　of　the　inn　were　gathered　around　the

fireplace・The　g・ay－haired　h・rse－d・aler　f・・m　E・hig・had　al…tay・d。vernight，

h・wa・there　t…　All　th・t・ay・f・・th・guest・were　b・・ught　in．　Th。　inn．

keeper　joined　us　for　the　mea1・He　was　about　fifty　years　old　and　was　extremely

garrul・u・・always　saying・・m・thing　after　ea・h　m・uthful．　Wh・n　th・・ther　guest、

had　left，　he　turned　his　attention　to　me．

H・・aid　Sad・had　a　nice　climate・and　mulberry　tree・grew　natu・ally，　but

unf・・tunat・ly　n・b・dy　w・uld・aise　silkw・・ms　seri・u・ly．　Thank・t。　a　g。。d

・1imat…n・w・uld　g・t　g・・d　re・ult・th・fir・t　tw…　three　years　with。ut　any

・pecial　eff・・t・but　th・n　if　th・tree・becam・disea・ed，　th・pity。f　it　w。uld

b・that　th・p・・pl・w・uld・a・ily　bec・m・disc・u・ag・d　and　give　up．　If。。m。。n。

we「e　re弓11y　willing　t・9・int・rai・ing・ilkw・・m・，　h・w・uld　h・lp　th・皿pi。k　l。aves

f・・th・ir・ilkw・rm・hat・h・d　f・・m，・ay，　fiv…　t・n・g9・a・、蛤．　P。。P1。　were

so　generous　here　that　nobody　would　make　a　fuss　and　call　someone　a　thief　if

BUI．LETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．


they　picked　a　few　mulberry　leaves　from　his　field．　He　went　on　in　this　manner

unaware　that　the　guests’trays　had　been　removed　and　his　wife，　who　had　waited

on　them，　had　already　left，　after　putting　the　rice　tub　in　the　corner．　The

innkeeper　fetched　the　tub　and　helped　himself　to　one　bowl　after　another，　eating

five　or　six　in　all．

Heinai－san　and　I　went　out　to　the　back　of　the　house．　Immediately　behind

the　inn　was　the　waterfront，　where　a　boat　was　moored．　Cows　were　being　led　one

after　another．　All　of　them　were　only　the　height　of　a　man’s　belly．　The　size

of　the　animals　born　and　raised　on　this　solitary　island　seemed　to　correspond

to　the　size　of　the　island；all　the　cows　I　had　seen　the　past　few　days　were　no

bigger　than　dogs．　The　innkeeper　once　more　started　talking：

The　cows　of　Sado　could　walk　in　mountains　and　hills　without　straw　shoes

and　because　of　this　advantage　they　sold　in　great　numbers　in　Hida．　If　someone

Ied　cows　to　Hida　he　sometimes　would　have　to　cross　a　gorge　in　a　basket　suspended

from　a　rope．　As　the　rope　slackened　while　they　were　crossing，　everybody　in　the

basket　would　turn　pale　and　seemed　to　have　died　of　fright　by　the　time　they

reached　the　other　side．　Folks　here　were　not　afraid　of　the　sea　because　wher一

ever　they　went　they　had　to　go　by　boat，　but　they　said　they　were　all　frightened

when　crossing　the　gorges　of　Hida　in　a　basket．

There　was　a　plank　leaning　against　the　boat　along　which　three　sailors　pulled

cows　to　get　them　aboard．　The　cows　allowed　themselves　to　be　led　as　far　as　the

end　of　the　plank　but　refused　to　board，　so　one　sailor　lifted　their　buttocks　from

behind　and　pushed　the　animals　into　the　boat．　He　did　not　hesitate　to　lift　the

rump　covered　all　over　with　dung．　When　all　the　cows　were　loaded　into　the　boat，

Ibade　farewell　to　Heinai－san　and　went　on　board．　This　time　his　usualんαcん加αん‘

was　not　around　his　forehead．　A　sailor　rinsed　my　straw－sandals　and　tied　them

to　the　gunwale．　When　the　huge　white　sail　made　of　eleven　rolls　of　cloth　was

hoisted，　the　boat　started　with　a　gentle　swaying　motion．“To　Port！”boomed　the

skipper’s　voice　from　the　bow，　and　the　helm　creaked　as　the　boat　turned　toward

Mt．　Yone．　The　boat　rocked　gently，　and　as　it　moved　up　and　down　on　the　waves，

the　mountains　looming　above　the　fishing　village　of　Akadomari　rose　and　fell

unevenly．　The　boat　was　covered　with　a　structure　like　a　roof　calledッαgπrα

rising　from　both　gunwales　and　the　mast　stood　in　the　center．　I　climbed　onto

theyα8召rαand　lay　down　at　the　foot　of　the　mast．　The　sky　was　as　clear　as　the

water，　and　the　sea　was　as　calm　as　the　sky．　The　air　was　cool，　but　the　sun

beat　mercilessly　on　all．　The　white　sail　sheltered　me　like　a　shade　from　the

scorching　sun．　Occasionally　a　breeze　swept　over　the　water，　like　a　swan　strok一

ing　the　sea　with　its　wings．　The　sail　momentarily　swelled　out・the　tackle


grated　about　my　ears，　but　in　a　short　while，　the　sail　fluttered　and　slackened

again．　The　skipper　standing　near　me　smoked　his　pipe　calmly，　his　head　resting

on　the　helm．　To　my　question　if　we　could　get　to　Teradomari　before　dark　the

helmsman　replied　that　the　cows　were　bound　for　Kashiwazaki，　but　it　looked　as

though　at　this　rate　it　would　be　midnight　before　we　reached　Kashiwazaki．　Oh，

no，　I　said　to　myself．　I　had　made　a　big　blunder．　I　had　planned　to　land　at　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　，seradomari　and　climb　Mt．　Yahiko　which　I　had　seen　so　often　from　a　distance

during　this　trip．　Suddenly　I　remembered　that　I　had　thought　it　odd　when

the　boat　suddenly　veered　toward　Mt．　Yone．　Now　to　climb　Mt．　Yahiko　I

would　have　to　backtrack　thirty　miles　from　Kashiwazaki．　But　it　was　too　late

now　to　do　anything　about　it．　I　would　simply　have　to　give　it　up．　Presently

Idozed　off，　my　head　resting　on　my　baggage．　The　sea　was　very　calm，　but　now

that　the　boat　was　offshore，　the　sea　began　to　form　large　waves　calledπo孟α，　so

the　boat　rocked　and　swayed　slowly　from　side　to　side．　Dozing　with　the　swaying

motion　of　the　boat　I　heard　the　tackle　squeak　and　the　sail　flap　and　slacken．

The　helmsman　sang　the　packhorse　driver’s　song，

“Does　you　no　good，

To　drink　water

when　you　are　drunk．”

Suddenly　one　of　the　sailors　shouted，

“Have　we　crossed　the　border　already？”　Isat　up　abruptly　to　find　that

Sado　was　already　surprisingly　far　behind　us　and　its　mountains　extended　like

an　embankment　on　the　water．　Mt．　Yahiko　looked　so　near　that　I　could　clearly

see　the　scars　left　by　landslides．　Mt．　Yone　could　be　seen　further　south，

hazy　in　the　distance．　The　cows　began　to　make　a　commotion　under　theッαg配rα．

The　three　sailors　all　looked　in　together　at　the　same　time　shouting　at　them　in

loud　voices．　At　once　the　cows　became　silent．　I　also　took　a　look　inside　and

saw　the　cows　closely　packed　in　two　rows　with　their　horns　tightly　tied　to　a　bar

along　the　gunwale．　The　gray－haired　horse－dealer　who　had　been　lying　with　his

head　opposite　to　mine　raised　himself　suddenly　and　asked，

“How’s　the　wind？”　The　helmsman　answered，

“ASado　storm　is　no　problem，　but　a　southerly　wind　is　no　good．　Even

if　we　head　toward　Izumozaki　it’s　no　better　since　we’d　be　going　against　the　wind

anyway．　Not　Kashiwazaki　for　me　today！Teradomari　is　a　better　alternative

than　Izumozaki，　don’t　you　thin｝（？”

“1’ll　have　to　pay　fifteen　yen　more　for　freight，　but　that　can’t　be　helped，

Iguess，”the　horse－dealer　answered，　scratching　his　gray－haired　head　full　of

dandruff．　Now　it　looked　like　I　could　go　to　Teradomari．　Icould　not　help

BULI．ETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．


feeling　glad　inside　that　I　would　be　able　carry　out　my　original　plan．　．lt

was　no　wonder　that　Mt．　Yahiko　had　looked　so　close　some　time　before．　It

was　about　five　when　we　arrived　at　Teradomari．　When　the　boat　reached　the

shore　it　was　turned　around　and　moored，　its　stern　jutting　high　on　the　beach．

Ithrew　down　my　hat　and　raincoat　mat　and　jumped　on　to　the　beach　the　moment

the　water　receded．　In　the　course　of　the　day’s　voyage　the　cows　had　ne》er　lowed

once．

Sado　lay　there　calm　and　flat，　occupying　the　horizon．　If　you　filled　water

in　one　of　those　large　basins　used　for　washing　horses　and　floated　the　lid　of　a

saucepan　in　it，　Sado　looked　like　the　grip　of　the　Iid　seen　from　its　side．　As

red　as　the　flames　rising　around　the　bottom　of　a　pot，　the　evening　glow　of　the

sky　enveloped　Sado　and　was　reflected　on　the　calm　expanse　of　the　sea．　Sado

was　an　unforgettable　and　the　charming　place　for　me，　In　Sado　I　had　three

days　of　rain　and　one　day　of　fine　weather，　and　when　I　visited　the　gold　mine

at　Aikawa　on　one　of　those　rainy　days　I　made　an　interesting　observation

At　first　the　bleakness　of　the　ore　refinery　surprised　me。　But　I　went　along

alittle　mountain　stream　called　the　Nigori－gawa．　The　water　was　muddy　as　if

full　of　earth　and　sediments．　Then　I　came　to　a　box－shaped　conduit　running　on

tall　stilts．　It　ran　along　the　winding　stream．　Here　and　there　ivy　with

leaves　that　had　turned　slightly　red　entwined　themselves　around　the　supports

and　crept　along　the　conduit．　Here　and　there　8μsα観inclined　their　ears　almost

touching　the　channel　above　them．　White　rain　drenched　the　ivy　leaves　and　struck

the　tops　of　the　8配s読ム　Standing　in　the　dreary　autumn　rain　I　wondered　what

was　flowing　in　the　coduit．　It　turned　out　to　be　ore　ground　into　sma11　dirト

1ike　pieces　and　carried　along　with　the　flow　of　the　water．　It　could　be　called

gold　and　silver　water．　The　thought　of　gold　and　silver　water　continually

flowing　above　my　head　suddenly　gave　an　unexpected　beauty　to　this　bleak　gold

mine．　In　this　way　I　felポSado　seemed　to　look　its　best　wherever　I　went．

In　outward　appearance　Sado　was　the　bleakest　place　I　could　imagine．　But

when　I　savored　its　subtle　qualities　I　found　there　were　few　places　as　full

of　charm　and　beauty　as　Sado．　The　horse－dealer　alone　would　have　made　my

trip　to　Sado　worthwhile，　but　he，　by　himself，　was　like　a　cloth　of　dark　gray

hue．　In　Sado　I　met　the　beautiful　girl　at　Ogi　Port。　She　was　a　peony

flower　embroidered　with　gold　and　silver　threads　on　that　dark　gray　cloth．　And

the　horse－dealer’s　daughter　was　a　bud　embroidered　with　dyed　thread　dried　on

glossy　fringed　iris　Ieaves．　Since　I　saw　the　beautiful　girl　only　briefly　in　the

evening　and　we　parted　the　next　morning，　I　did　not　learn　her　name．　It　was　not

clear　at　all　whether　she　was　the　innkeeper’s　daughter　or　a　servant．　I　did　not


know　why　I　left　the　inn　so　hastily・　It　was　perhaps　because　every　day　during

my　month－long　trip　I　had　had　to　flee　from　the　il1－appointed　inns　and　it　had

simply　become　a　habit．　But　at　any　rate　I　had　had　a　conversation　with　that

beauty　at　the　inn　while　enjoying　the　view　of　Sakuhino　Bay．　And　I　never

tired　of　her　talk。　Now　I　felt　somehow　empty　inside．　If　we　turn　over　an

embroidered　peony，　we　always　find　the　gold　and　silver　threads　in　disorder　there．

The　memory　of　that　beautiful　girl　I　still　found　unsettlihg．　Yet　the　little

disturbances　of　my　heart　were　just　like　the　disordered　gold　and　silver　threads

to　the　beautifully　embroidered　peony，　my　beautiful　memory　of　Sado．　I　stood

there　lost　in　thought，　my　baggage　and　sandals　in　hand，　until　the　boat　was　hauled

on　to　the　beach．　The　sandals　rinsed　by　the　sailor　were　now　quite　dry．　In

my　hands　I　held　my　only　mementos　of　Sado，　the　sweet　brier　flowers　pressed

between　the　pages　of　my　notebook，　which　the　beauty　of　Ogi　had　admired　in　the

lamplight，　and　these　sandals．　These　sandals　were　the　very　same　ones　that

she　had　beaten　with　a　mallet　for　me．　The　figure　of　the　girl　with　her　white

undergarmentshowing　fromunder　the　hem　ofher　dark　blue　kimono　appeared　vividly

before　my　eyes．　But　this　was　a　memory　of　something　no　Ionger　there．　All

Ihad　right　now　were　these　sandals．　I　wanted　very　much　to　wear　them　until

Ihad　worn　out　the　heels．　When　the　heels　were　worn　out，　straw　would　stick

out　both　ways　like　dishevelled　hair．　Yet　the　tightly　knotted　strings　would

never　come　loose　unless　I　untied　them．　Imust　tie　the　strings　of　these

sandals　tightly，　I　thought．　With　my　hat－ ≠獅п@mat　lying　on　the　sandy　beach

of　Akadomari　and　with　dusk　quietly　falling，　I　slowly　tied　the　strings　of

my　straw－sandals．

BUL、LETIN，　No．21，1989，　CGE　Ibaraki　Univ．

roseリポジトリいばらき （茨城大学学術情報リポジトリ）although it was already...

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roseリポジトリいばらき（茨城大学学術情報リポジトリ）although it was already...