Brookmont Beekeeping Class

Introduction to Beekeeping

Prepared by Samantha GuerryRose River Bees.com

November 2013

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What We Will Cover

I. Bee biology & behavior

II. Location selection

III. Equipment

IV. Bee selection

V. Basic hive management

VII. Beekeeping calendar

VIII. Overview of honey & honey extraction

IX. Bee disease and pest management

X Additional resources and issues

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Why is Beekeeping Important?

“If the bees ever die out, mankind will follow four years later.” –Albert Einstein

1 out of every 3 or 4 bites of food you eat is thanks to bees. Bees pollinate 80% of the world’s plants including 90 different food crops. The honeybee is responsible for $15 billion in U.S. agricultural crops each year.

Bee populations are collapsing worldwide. Over the last 3 years, more than 1 in 3 honeybee colonies has died nationwide. (Last year, the State of Virginia lost 50% of its beehive colonies!!) The syndrome is called “Colony Collapse Disorder” (CCD). After WWII there were 5.9 million honeybee colonies, today there are only 2.5 million. However, in the past few years, thanks to the attention brought by CCD, the ranks of new beekeepers have swelled. There are about 210,000 beekeepers in the US.

Bees face new, imported threats. The greatest threat to beekeeping is two varieties of mites (Varroa and Tracheal). And although these mites can be kept under control by a persistent beekeeper, the negative effects on the honeybee population have been devastating. The Back Yard Beekeepers Association surveyed its membership and learned that over 40% of the membership's hives died in 1996. These mites are greatly reducing the overall honeybee population in the USA. (The mites are of no concern to humans.) Another threat is the small hive beetle that was inadvertently imported from Africa. The aggressive Africa bees can manage them, but not the gentle European honeybees. These pests and diseases have been rapidly spread by migratory commercial beekeeping practices. For example, over 50% of the bees in the US (1.5 million hives) are taken by truck each spring to California to pollinate 760,000 acres of almond trees! Once pollinated, the bees are then taken to other mono-crops, which in turn become deserts for the bees as their single flowering season ends. So the bees must keep moving.

Loss of viable habitat & urbanization. With more and more urban development and the growth of cities, there is less and less foraging available to bees. However, areas like Fairfield County contain a rich assortment of nectar and pollen for honeybees, thanks to homeowners' gardens and the lush, wooded countryside.

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Rise and compound use of pesticides—particularly “neonics.” Neonicotinoids are a group of insecticides that are used widely on farms, as well as around our homes, schools, and city landscapes. Used to protect against sap-sucking and leaf-chewing insects, neonicotinoids are systemic, which means they are absorbed by the plant tissues and expressed in all parts, including nectar and pollen. They also compound in the soil and plant material and remain there for many years. Unfortunately, the residues harm bees, butterflies, and other flower-visiting insects. Extremely concerning is the prolific inclusion of these insecticides in home garden products. Neonics have been banned in Europe. The US EPA has been very ineffective dealing with this issue and currently has it under review. (See later chapter for more information.)

Migrating Africanized Bees. The arrival of so-called "killer bees" in a few southern states has received sensationalized treatment in the media. In some areas of the country, this negative publicity has stimulated local restrictions and ordinances on the hobbyist beekeeper. These bees are a problem in some southern areas. They are the result of an irresponsible experiment gone wrong in Central America, where a scientist trying to bred a heartier bee brought bees from Africa to the Americas to cross breed them. The bees escaped and began breeding with feral native bees, thereby making them much more aggressive. African bees are very aggressive and sting repeatedly when provoked—thus earning them the name “killer bees.”

Backyard Beekeeping is part of the solution!In the old days, backyard bees were common. Today we are seeing a resurgence of backyard hives. These hives help boost the diversity of hive populations. Contribute to feral populations. And support our local ecosystems—which is good for all the animals around us.

See this article on beekeeping in DC:

“We were losing a third of the nation’s honeybee hives every year for five consecutive years,” says Dr. Jeff Pettis, research leader at the USDA’s Bee Research Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland. “With all that attention, backyard/urban beekeeping has just exploded.” Metropolitan Washington is a bit of a mecca for urban beekeeping. Pettis’s Bee Lab has been referred to as the nation’s flagship (though Pettis dislikes that label). One local beekeeper has called Dennis vanEngelsdorp, a University of Maryland professor and founder of the Bee Informed Partnership a “rock star bee scientist,” perhaps because of his TED talk. There are hives scattered in backyards across Northern Virginia and suburban Maryland. In DC, hives can be found at various government agencies, at George Washington University, and even on a townhouse rooftop in Georgetown. . . .The hives at the Washington Youth Garden at the National Arboretum won this year’s Best Tasting Honey award at the DC State Fair (out of 16 entries), and the White House’s colonies are known for bringing in record harvests. http://www.washingtonian.com/blogs/capitalcomment/local-news/the-rise-of-urban-beekeeping-in-washington.php

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A Very Brief History of Bees

• Bees are 30 million years old and the only insect to produce a food eaten by man…(“Man of Bicorp” Spain, 8,000 yr old)

• Apis mellifera—scientific name means "honey-bearing bee". For eons, people believed that bees collected honey. The ancient Greeks thought the bees were messengers to the Gods and brought the honey from them. The name was coined in 1758 by Carolus Linnaeus, but he later realized that bees do not bear honey, but nectar. When he tried later to correct it to Apis mellifica ("honey-making bee") however, according to the rules of synonymy in zoological nomenclature, the older name has precedence.

• Bees have been revered as a symbol of immortality, resurrection and power throughout history. In heraldry, the bee symbolizes diligence and indefatigable effort. Emperors and kings have used the symbol of the honeybee for many centuries as royal emblems. As far back as 1450-1300 BC, the bee was an emblem of Potnia, the Minoan-Mycenaean "Mistress", also referred to as “Gaia”, earth goddess” or "The Pure Mother Bee". Her priestesses received the name of "Melissa" ("bee").

• Egyptians were expert beekeepers and revered the bee. They practiced migratory beekeeping in 3,000BC. In ancient Egypt, the bee was the insignia of kings. There may even have been a “Bee King” in pre-dynastic times in Lower Egypt. After the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt, this symbol was incorporated in the title usually preceding the throne name of pharaoh and expressing the unity of the two realms, He of the Sedge and of the Bee. Archaeologists have learned a great deal about ancient Egypt by studying the pollen, plants, and honey buried with King Tut and other leaders.

• Bees are symbolic of ideal societies. Political theorists have often employed a community of honeybees as a model of human society. This metaphor occurs in Aristotle and Plato; in Virgil and Seneca; in Erasmus and Shakespeare and in Bernard Mandeville's Fable of the Bees, or Private Vices made Public Benefits, which influenced Montesquieu and Marx. Tolstoy also compares human society to a community of bees in War and Peace.

• Honey Bees are not native to the US. The settlers brought them here in the 1600s.

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Three Important Bee Concepts• The Power of Flower Fidelity. A honeybee visits 50 to 100 flowers during each

collection trip—but all of the SAME kind of flower—which is why they are so good at pollination. Bees leave the hive 15 times per day and visit around 100 flowers each time – that’s 1,500 flowers a day! In ancient Greece, Aristotle observed that individual honeybees tend to reliably forage from the same type of flowers. The relationship between bees and flowers has been a classic model for understanding how complex systems operate, and how evolution produces surprising outcomes. Furthermore, bees cannot see the color red (it looks green to them), but they can detect ultraviolet reflectance. So flowers have adapted to attract bees! Together, these proclivities mean that bees have literally shaped the flowers we know today. When a particular flower is producing well, the bees communicate with one another by "dancing" (known as the waggle dance) so as to give the direction and distance of flowers. Bees fly up to 6 miles from their hive to gather nectar and pollen. So your bees are spread out over a very large area during their active season.

• Respect the “Bee Space”. Bees are amazing architects. They use their mandibles like calipers to measure and build the 6-sided hex shape of honeycomb using flakes of wax they produce—it is the strongest shape per material weight. Bees need 7.5 mm (+/- 1.5mm) between frames to build combs—and they are VERY precise. The “bee space” is simply the crawl space needed by a bee to pass easily between two structures. If the space between any two surfaces in the hive is too small for a bee to pass through easily, the bees will seal it with propolis. If the space is larger than a bee needs to pass through easily, the bees will construct comb in the area. When the space between two surfaces in the hive is the right size, the bees will leave it free as a crawl space. Feral bees build hives in tree cavities and other protected areas, attaching the combs to the upper part. In gathering the honey, it is usually necessary to destroy both the cavity and the combs. In our history with bees we have gone from destroying feral hives to using “skeps” to the innovation in 1851 of the Langstroth Hive with removable frames. The Langstroth Hive is designed to respect the bee space and therefore allows for easy comb removal and replacement will result.

• The hive is a perennial living organism. Honeybees represent a highly organized society, with various bees having very specific roles during their lifetime: e.g., nurses, guards, grocers, housekeepers, construction workers, royal attendants, undertakers, foragers, etc. The bees create their own HVAC system—self-regulating the internal temperature of the cluster to maintain 92- 93 degrees Fahrenheit in their central brood nest regardless of whether the outside temperature is 110 or -40 degrees. Bees don’t hibernate. Although quite inactive during the winter, the honeybee survives the winter months by clustering for warmth and eating the honey they’ve stored. Bees are very tidy and hygienic. Not only do they take their bee space very seriously, they require absolute order within the hive. Understanding this allows us to use that characteristic to help us help them maintain their hives. For example, by dusting bees with powdered sugar you trigger their grooming instinct, which helps them control the varroa mite population.

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Who is in a Hive?• Queen Bee. There is only one queen per hive. The queen is the only bee with

fully developed ovaries. A queen bee can live for 3-5 years. The queen mates only once with several male (drone) bees, and will remain fertile for life. She lays up to 2000 eggs per day. Fertilized eggs become female (worker bees) and unfertilized eggs become male (drone bees). When she dies or becomes unproductive, the other bees will "make" a new queen by selecting a young larva and feeding it a diet of "royal jelly". For queen bees, it takes 16 days from egg to emergence.

• Worker Bee. All worker bees are female, but they are not able to reproduce. Worker bees live for 4-9 months during the winter season, but only 6 weeks during the busy summer months (they literally work. A hive consists of 20,000 - 30,000 bees in the winter, and over 60,000 - 80,000 bees in the summer. The worker bees sequentially take on a series of themselves to death). Nearly all of the bees in a hive are worker bees specific chores during their lifetime: housekeeper; nursemaid; construction worker; grocer; undertaker; guard; and finally, after 21 days they become a forager collecting pollen and nectar. For worker bees, it takes 21 days from egg to emergence. The worker bee has a barbed stinger that results in her death following stinging, therefore, she can only sting once.

• Drone Bee. These male bees are kept on standby during the summer for mating with a virgin queen. Because the drone has a barbed sex organ, mating is followed by death of the drone. There are only 300-3000 drones in a hive—about 2 - 4% of the total population. The drone does not have a stinger. Because they are of no use in the winter, drones are expelled from the hive in the autumn.

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Biology of the Bee

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Life Cycle

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“The most common concern about honeybees is bee stings. Honeybees are not aggressive by nature and are unlikely to sting unless provoked by an intruder.

Only 0.4% of Americans report an allergy to

insect stings in the U.S., and almost none

of these stings are caused by honeybees.

In addition, less than 1% of the US

population is at risk of systemic reaction to

stings by honeybees. Severe reactions

from the sting of any one insect in a year

are 1 in 5,555,556. The chance that

someone will be hit by a car is 59.3%

higher.” (JustFood.org)

Hive Products• Pollen—Bees collect 66 lbs of pollen per year, per hive. Pollen is the male

germ cells produced by all flowering plants for fertilization and plant embryo formation. The Honeybee uses pollen as a food. Pollen is one of the richest and purest natural foods, consisting of up to 35% protein, 10% sugars, carbohydrates, enzymes, minerals, and vitamins A (carotenes), B1 (thiamin), B2 (riboflavin), B3 (nicotinic acid), B5 (panothenic acid), C (ascorbic acid), H (biotin), and R (rutine).

• Honey—Honey is used by the bees for food all year round. There are many types, colors and flavors of honey, depending upon its nectar source. The bees make honey from the nectar they collect from flowering trees and plants. Honey is an easily digestible, pure food. Honey is hydroscopic and has antibacterial qualities. Eating local honey can fend off allergies.

• Beeswax— Honeybees produce beeswax from eight paired glands on the underside of their abdomen. Bees use it to build honeycomb. Honeybees must consume about 17-20 pounds of honey to be able to biochemically produce each pound of beeswax.

• Propolis—Collected by honeybees from trees, the sticky resin is mixed with wax to make a sticky glue. The bees use this to seal cracks and repair their hive. It is used by humans as a health aid, and as the basis for fine wood varnishes.

• Royal Jelly—The powerful, milky substance that turns an ordinary bee into a Queen Bee. It is made of digested pollen and honey or nectar mixed with a chemical secreted from a gland in a nursing bee's head. It commands premium prices rivaling imported caviar, and is used by some as a dietary supplement and fertility stimulant. It is loaded with all of the B vitamins.

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Honey Love• Bees fly a few tenths of a mile up to 6 miles to gather nectar.

• They fly for up to six miles and as fast as 15 miles per hour, hence, it would have to fly around 90,000 miles - three times around the globe - to make one pound of honey.

• Bees can collect up to 4-5 pounds of nectar each day.4 pounds of nectar = 1 pound of honey8 pounds of nectar = 1 pound of beeswax1 lb of honey = visiting two million flowers and flying 55,000 miles 55,000 miles = 2x around the world

• The average honeybee will actually make only one twelfth of a teaspoon of honey in her lifetime.

• It takes one ounce of honey to fuel a bee’s flight around the world.

• Honey is nectar that bees have repeatedly regurgitated and dehydrated.

• Honey is 80% sugars and 20% water.

• Honey is the only food on the planet that will not spoil or rot. Bacteria can’t grow in it, and because of its low moisture content and low pH – honey can last indefinitely. Because of these antibacterial qualities it has been used for medical purposes and wound care for centuries—even today for burn patients.

• When left in a cool dark place for a long time, honey may start to "crystallize".  When this happens, loosen the lid, boil some water, place the honey container in the hot water, turn off the heat and let it re-liquefy.  It is then as good as it ever was.  Never bring the honey to a boil or put it in a microwave

• Honey has been used for millennia as a topical dressing for wounds since microbes cannot live in it.  It also produces hydrogen peroxide.  Honey has even been used to embalm bodies such as that of Alexander the Great.

• Fermented honey, known as Mead, is the most ancient fermented beverage.  The term "honey moon" originated with the Norse practice of consuming large quantities of Mead during the first month of a marriage.

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Site Selection: Before You Get Started

Both beginners and established beekeepers should select each apiary site carefully. Throughout the foraging season, nectar and pollen sources must be within a short distance (roughly 1 mile) of the hives. Bees also need a source of fresh water so they can dilute honey, regulate hive temperature, liquefy crystallized honey, and raise brood. If a water supply is not available within 1/4 mile of the hives, you can provide a tank or pan of water with a floating board or crushed rock for the bees to land on. The water source does not need to be “pure.”

Bees are less irritable and easier to handle when located in the open where they can get plenty of sunshine. Shade from trees retards the flight of workers and hinders finding the queen and seeing eggs within the cells. A southern or easterly exposure gives colonies maximum sunshine throughout the day. The apiary is best situated near natural wind protection such as hills, buildings, or evergreens (Figure 22). Other requirements are dry ground and good air drainage. Avoid windy, exposed hilltops or sites near the bank of a river that might potentially flood. You should also avoid apiary locations in heavily shaded woods or in a damp bottom land since excess moisture and less sunshine retards the flight of the bees and encourages development of such bee diseases as nosegay and EFB.

Your accessibility to the apiary is important—perhaps the most important factor in apiary location because you must visit it throughout the year in all kinds of weather. Avoid locations where carrying equipment and heavy supers of honey any distance will be necessary. Hives should be secluded from traffic, constant noise, and disturbance from animals and children. To discourage vandalism, placing colonies near a dwelling or area frequently visited yet screened from view if possible (a vegetative corral) is advisable.

Safety from pesticide applications that can affect colonies directly or the bees’ forage is also important. Acquaint yourself with the pesticides commonly used in the area. When practicable, place colonies away from fields that are routinely treated with pesticides.

Beekeepers should manage bees so that they do not bother neighbors. You can take several precautions to decrease the chances of your colonies becoming a public nuisance.

Maintaining gentle colonies is imperative in highly populated areas. Keeping colonies with bees that try to sting each time they are examined, or that consistently hover around the bee veil even after the colony is closed, is not advisable in the urban setting. Selecting hybrid strains that have been bred for gentleness and requeening on a regular schedule will certainly help. If a colony becomes too defensive, requeening with a new queen will likely change colony temperament in a month or so.

Providing a source of water near the hives will stop a lot of unnecessary complaints. Otherwise, the bees may get their water from the neighbor’s swimming pool, dripping water faucet, birdbath, children’s wading pool, or hanging wash. Once they have become accustomed to a watering place, they will continue to use it throughout the season, and correcting problems after they develop is not always possible short of moving the bees.

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Most colonies have a basic flight pattern as they leave and return to the hive. People and animals passing through this flight path could be stung. Bees also spot cars, clothing, and buildings in the vicinity of the hive by releasing their body waste in flight. Spotting from a single colony is generally not serious, but several colonies flying in one direction may make a car or house unsightly in a short time. If possible, do not allow hives to face children’s play areas, neighbors’ clotheslines, houses, and so forth. Planting a hedge (vegetative corral) or building a fence at least 6 feet high forces the bees to fly above head level and thus reduces the chance of encounters with pedestrians. Fences and hedges also keep colonies out of view, which helps reduce vandalism and concern by the neighbors who might have unfounded, but to them very real, fears related to bee stings.

When manipulating and examining hives, keep your neighbors foremost in mind. Weather and time of day influence the disposition of a colony. Colonies kept in the shade tend to be more defensive. Work the bees on warm, sunny days, when the field force will be actively foraging. Avoid early morning and late evening manipulations if possible. Use smoke efficiently and work carefully and slowly to help prevent defensive behaviors by bees. During a nectar dearth, keep robbing at a minimum. Robbing stimulates defensive behavior. Keep examination time to a minimum and make sure honey supers and frames not being inspected are covered. All spare equipment stored outside should be bee-tight. Also, top entrances should be avoided in close neighborhoods during the summer season. Whenever a hive with a top entrance is opened and the supers moved, hundreds of bees will be flying around confused because their entrance is gone.Swarming bees can be a major concern for neighbors. Even though swarming bees are quite gentle and seldom inclined to sting, the presence of a swarm in the neighborhood tends to excite people, and your apiary, rightly or wrongly, will likely be identified as the source of the swarm. Having sufficient equipment to manage your colonies and reduce swarming is a must (see “Swarm Management”).

Rules of thumb for urban beekeeping:

Keep only gentle colonies and employ good swarm management techniques.

Keep no more than four hives on a property of 1/4 acre or less.

All hives within 20 feet of a property line should have a solid fence or vegetative obstruction 5 feet or more in height between the hives and the property line.

All hives within 30 feet of a public sidewalk or roadway should have a solid fence or dense vegetative obstruction or be elevated so as to direct the flight path of the bees well above traffic and pedestrians.

An adequate supply of water should be provided by the property owner or beekeeper from March 1 to October 31.

Part of being an urban beekeeper is good public relations. Beekeepers who permit their bees to become nuisances force communities to institute restrictive ordinances that are detrimental to the beekeeping industry. Do not keep more colonies in the backyard than the area forage can support or more than you have time to care for adequately. Giving the neighbors an occasional jar of honey will also sweeten relations. Only a very small number of communities prohibit keeping bees. In most instances, violation of an ordinance or keeping bees in a negligent manner usually means moving the bees to another location.

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What You Need to Get Started

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Brushy Mountain Bees Q & AWhen should I order my equipment to prepare for my bees?

You want to order equipment several weeks to a month in advance to when it will be needed. This gives you ample time to have your equipment assembled, painted, and setup before your bees arrive.

Do I need to paint my hives?In order for you to preserve the wood of your hives, the hives will need to be painted. Hives can be painted with either an acrylic latex paint in any color or they may be stained.

Which is better: 8-frame or 10-frame bodies? (Sam recommends 8 Frame Hives)Being a bee supplier of both 8 and 10-frame hives we leave the choice up to the beekeeper. Having a10-frame hive does give you added space for 2 more frames (some beekeepers use 9 frames spaced evenly so the bees can draw out the hive which creates more honey), in turn making the bodies heavier. With the 8-frame being smaller does not mean that your colony will be smaller or weaker, it just means that your colony will grow up rather than out.

Is equipment from other companies interchangeable?Bee equipment does come in a standard size that should be interchangeable with other companies. Do note that Brushy Mountain Bee Farm supplies are developed in the United States and hold up better than the cheaper competitors brand. Our hives do not present any gapes between supers and we glue as well as nail our woodware so the wear and tear on our product holds up better.

Should I get a beginner's kit or buy individual pieces?Our kits provide everything that you need to start you first hive except for the bees, feed, and paint. We pride ourselves in providing you the most successful kit available without extras you do not need. Purchasing a kit gives you the essentials you need where as developing your hive with individual parts can lead to missing items or tools you would need before getting your bees.

How long should I feed my package of bees/nuc?With a new package of bees, feeding should happen for the first 6-8 weeks. Feeding for nucs should happen until remaining frames are pulled out and your ready to add the first honey super.

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How do you get bees?For the beginner beekeeper, buying is probably the easiest and safest way to start an apiary. There are two ways to receive bees: package bees and a nucleus.

1. Package: To order a package of bees, contact a local beekeeper. Most packages will contain a queen, multiple workers, and a feeder filled with sugar syrup or some other type of sweet food. There are two ways to introduce the queen bee to the workers, the indirect and the direct method.

The indirect method allows worker bees to become familiar with the queen slowly as they eat their way through the food to her.

The direct method releases the queen immediately into the bees. Since bees are packaged with a queen that is not their own, it is more likely that she will be attacked through the direct method. Without a queen, the hive will not survive. However, if they do accept her through the direct method, your hive will be able to start breeding and producing honey more quickly than through the indirect method.

2. Nucleus: You can also order a nucleus hive. These come already stocked with an established bee colony. The disadvantage to this approach is that the queen may be old or of poor stock, thus resulting in weak bees. In our area, these are available in May/June.

3. Buy or rent a mature colony. There are several sources for these, including EcoHoneyBees—a local hive supply and management company.

-- More information posted on RoseRiverBee.com --

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Getting Going: Basic Advice (Adapted from BeeSource.com)

• Read, read, read! Study, study, study!

• Ask lots of questions!

• Get among the bees – this is the litmus test. You will either be filled with joy,

wonder, and amazement (you have the heart of a beekeeper), or fear and

dread (find another hobby!).

• Get stung! It’s going to happen.

• Go local! Visit a beekeeping farm or beekeeper in your area.

• Assess the amount of work there is in beekeeping. You will need 3-6 hours a

month or more to tend the bees during the prime season. Take that time and

add any special stuff to it such as feeding, honey recovery, and super work.

• Get a mentor that will show you their hives and let you work with them.

• Join a beekeeping group.

• Maintain perspective.

• Stay calm and relaxed. Easy does it with everything.

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Avoid Neonicotinoids in Your Garden

Examples of Neonicotinoid Garden Products Used in the United States

Neonicotinoid Garden & ornamental uses Garden product trademark names

Imidacloprid

Foliar spray for turf and ornamental flowers, trees, and shrubs; soil drench for garden fruits and vegetables, and ornamental flowers, trees, and shrubs; trunk injection for trees; granules for turf and ornamental flowers, shrubs, or trees.

Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease, & Mite Control

Bayer Advanced 12 Month Tree & Shrub Insect ControlBayer Advanced 12 Month Tree & Shrub Protect & FeedBayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect ControlBayer Advanced All-in-One Rose & Flower Care concentrate

DIY Tree Care Products Multi-Insect KillerFerti-lome 2-N-1 SystemicHi-Yield Systemic Insect SprayKnockout Ready-To-Use Grub KillerMonterey Once a Year Insect Control IIOrtho Bug B Gon Year-Long Tree & Shrub Insect ControlOrtho MAX Tree & Shrub Insect ControlSurrender Brand GrubZ Out

Clothianidin

Granules for turf, and ornamental flowers, shrubs, or trees.

Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose & Flower Care granules

Green Light Grub Control with Arena

Thiamethoxam

Foliar spray for turf and ornamental flowers, trees, and shrubs; granules for turf and ornmanetal flowers, trees, and shrubs.

Amdro Quick Kill Lawn & Landscape Insect Killer

Amdro Rose & Flower CareMaxide Dual Action Insect Killer

Acetamiprid

Foliar spray for garden fruits and vegetables, and ornamental flowers, trees, and shrubs.

Ortho Bug B Gon Garden Insect Killer

Ortho Bug B Gon for LawnsOrtho Flower, Fruit and Vegetable Insect KillerOrtho Rose and Flower Insect KillerOrtho Rose Pride Insect Killer

Dinotefuran

Granules for turf and ornamental flowers, shrubs or trees; soil drench for ornamental flowers, trees, and shrubs.

Green Light Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Safari 2 G

SafariOrtho Tree & Shrub Insect Control Plus Miracle Gro Plant Food

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Source: Xerces Society

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Recommended Resources

WebsitesRose River Bees (Samantha’s Website)www.roseriverbees.com

******************Brushy Mountain ** Best Beekeeping Supplies & Online Videos/education **http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.comhttp://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/Online-Beginners-Class-CD/productinfo/489B/

Beverly Bees – Good “how-to” videos for beginnershttp://www.beverlybees.com

Bee Culture Magazine – leading publication, great infohttp://www.beeculture.com

Better Bee – Supplies and Informationhttp://www.betterbee.com

DC Honeybees – Urban beekeeping information and supporthttp://dchoneybees.com/DC_Honeybees_Site/Home.html

Eco Honeybees ** Our guest speaker, Larry (cell# 703-801-2281) ** Hive rental & Services**http://ecohoneybees.com

Honey Love – Information for Urban Beekeepershttp://honeylove.org

Melissa’s Bees – Hive products and informationhttp://melissabees.com

MAAREC – Mid-Atlantic Apiculture Research and Extension Consortiumhttps://agdev.anr.udel.edu/maarec/

Ted Talks: A Plea for Beeshttp://www.ted.com/talks/dennis_vanengelsdorp_a_plea_for_bees.html

You Tube *tons of beekeeping “how to videos”*

Xerces Society - Fantastic Conservation Group—Great Infohttp://www.xerces.org

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BooksRobbing the Bees- Bishop ****

Beekeeping for Dummies

Sweetness and Light – Hattie Ellis

Honeybee: Lessons from an Accidental Beekeeper –Marchese

Buzz: Urban Beekeeping and the Power of the Bee – Moore & Kosut

The Beekeepers Lament – Nordhaus

The Backyard Beekeeper- Flottum ****

The Beekeepers Bible

Confessions of a Bad Beekeeper: What Not to Do – Turnbull

Better Beekeeping -- Flottum

Movies

Queen of the Sun** (http://www.queenofthesun.com)

More Than Honey (http://buy.morethanhoneyfilm.com)

Bees: Tales from the Hive

Vanishing of the Bees (http://www.vanishingbees.com)

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