issue 05 | 2013

MAGAZINE

LIFE OF PIE

History in a COPPER MOLD

The Best Cupcake bakeries

in d.c.a completemeal with:RAW FOODS

RestaurantSpotlight: Pasta remoliWhat is a Wet Hopped Beer?

Contact UsCall:

857-209-8525

Email: foodpluschef@gmail.com

Website: www.FoodPlusChef.com

©Food + Chef Magazine 2013

MAGAZINE

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contentsEditor’s Note

Summer’s End...By Kevin Schmidt

History in a Copper Mold Discovering the little cake

known as the Canelé in FranceBy Mike Alexander

Food Loving Anorexic The Acute Food Awareness Stemming

from a Serious Eating DisorderBy Teresa Sweeney

Featured:

life of pieThe History of Pie

Harvest Pie

Apple Pie

The Perfect Crust

contents

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. Featured Section:

Plant-Based PerfectionCreate a Complete Meal

with Raw FoodsCulinary Journey through a

Complete Raw Food MealBy Jana Free

Ingredient Spotlight: Potatoes

All about the Beloved Potato

Recipes:Roasted Potatoes, Pancetta, & Leeks

Fresh Pesto

Fondant PotatoesVideo How-To for

Delicious Fondant PotatoesBy Chef John

Restaurant Spotlight: Pasta Remoli

Artisan Fresh Pasta from an Exceptional Restaurant in London

By Simone Innamorati

Drink Please:What is a Wet Hopped Beer?Explanation of a New Trend in Brewing and Why You Should Seek it OutBy Josh Agate

Growing Corn in ArizonaGrowing Sweet Corn the Arizona Way!By Brittani Mann

Road Trip EatingA Road Trip can be a FoodAdventure with theProper PlanningBy Adriana Valentin

The Best Cupcake Bakeries in D.CThe Hunt for the Best Cupcakes in the Capitol CityBy Nikko Pendleton

Food History Calendar.

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Fall is here and with it comes a multitude

of traditions and delicacies. Those first few mild days of fall where you can put on a hoodie sweatshirt and maybe crack open an Octoberfest beer and savor the final days of

the late summer veggies is literally the stuff I daydream about. There were quite a few food things that left a mark on me in my first summer in the Hamptons of Long Island. The first being the clams. I absolutely love clams... In all ways. I spent many a summer day digging clams with kids and family and boy did we eat them in any which way we could. From chowder, raw on the half-shell, grilled with fresh pesto, roasted with tomatoes and onion, and of course my late father in-law’s famous white clam sauce, made by my brother in-law John who paid close attention tothe details of this great recipe from his dad... The legend lives on. I have also tried a number of new foods out here. From sea arugula and sea beans, creamy burrata cheese, and tuna toro (first from the day it was caught and then again 5 days later totaste the difference as the flavor intensified and aged) it sure was a delicious summer. I can’t wait to see what I will come across this fall!

In this month’s issue we feature the great dessert- The Pie. Who doesn’t love pie? I do. Fresh picked apple pie with ice cream, zucchini pie, pumpkin pie, pizza pie, etc.. The options are endless with all the fall seasonal fruits and veggies available.

Another fall harvest time adventure is the new wet hopped brews popping up around the country. Josh Agate explains what a wet hopped beer is and why it’s something you should seek out this fall in “What is a Wet Hopped Beer?”

Lastly, I’m thrilled to showcase a couple of dining destinations across the pond. First, a wonderful piece on the little French cake known as the Canelé in “History in a Copper Mold” by Mike Alexander. And then we take jump over to London to hear about masterful fresh Italian pasta in a piece about restaurant- Pasta Remoli by Simone Innamorati.I’m getting back to the kitchen now to work with some of these beautiful farm stand veggies! Go buy some local food today... Our future depends on it.

Enjoy!

Kevin SchmidtEditorFood + Chef Magazine

editor’s noteSummer's End...

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History in a Copper Mold

When researching food in France it never fails to impress me just how much history plays a part in the local cuisine. it was no different when i started to investigate the little cake known as a Canelé that is

associated typically with the Bordeaux region.

HISTORY IN A

COPPER MOLDBy: Mike Alexander

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I interviewed Philippe Baillardran at one of the largest of his twenty two outlets, selling almost exclusively, this local delicacy. Philippe is a fourth generation patissier and over the generations he and his ancestors have used

this simple little cake to build a mini empire. On a good day Philippe can sell 40,000 Canelés and he insists that his business works because the product is sold fresh. Anything not sold on the day it is baked is given to one of the local charities that feed the homeless. The sheer logistics of such quantities means that he employs a person whose primary function is to go back over statistics and estimate the daily production requirements. This is done in terms of past production, weather and local holidays. To make things extra complicated, many outlets have their own kitchen where the cakes are baked on site.

If the history of the Canelé ended there it would be an interesting example of business acumen but the cake’s history runs far deeper than that. It be-

gan with a convent started in 1590. The nuns were given the right to gather the flour that had spilled into the bottoms of the boats delivering to the local port. These canny nuns had also persuaded the rich wine estates to donate large numbers of egg yolks, as the egg white was an important part of the pro-cess of filtering wine. They combined the two into a dough which they baked and gave to the poor.

Following the French revolution in 1790 the con-vent was disbanded and the Canelé does not make a reappearance until 1830 when the local patissiersbegan making them again. Although the product, that is now so representative of Bordeaux, has gone through many changes, including the addition of sugar and rum, it was those nuns who laid the origi-nal foundation.

History in a Copper Mold

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Today the Canelé is baked in a distinctive copper mold and incorporates both rum and vanilla. Tra-ditionally they come in three sizes, a small to be eaten with coffee, a medium which is eaten as a light snack and the traditional, which is usually served as a desert and accompanied by crème Anglais. Of course the French, being French, re-main flexible in their eating habits and the small Canelé may also be served with an aperitif.

Perhaps it is the combination of so many histori-cal factors that has made the Canelé what it is to-day. It is a derivative of a wine industry brought here by the Romans, a rum industry which was a spill over from the slave trade and a fourteenth century religious order which has now been re-established in Bordeaux. All of that is molded together by world class patissiers who have a passion, not only for the quality of the food they produce but also a desire to see a culture con-tinue and flourish. In recognition of that passion and history in 2010 UNESCO took the unprece-dented step of listing French cuisine as a gastro-nomic and intangible cultural treasure. The first such listing that organization had made.

History in a Copper Mold

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Canelé

Ingredients:

For 60 mini canelés

½ liter full cream milk

1 pod vanilla

250 grams sugar

100 grams flour

2 full eggs

2 egg yolks

50 grams butter

1 soup spoon rum

RecipeHistory in a Copper Mold

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Directions:

1. Boil the milk, butter and the vanilla pod sliced in two.

2. Mix flour, sugar and all the eggs until smooth.

3. Remove the vanilla pod from the milk. Scrape the inside back into the milk and discard the shell.

4. Add the boiled milk and butter to the flour mix and whisk to form a smooth fluid mix.

5. Allow to rest until cool. (Approximately one hour)

6. Mix in the rum and preheat oven to 270°C.

7. Butter the copper molds. (All chefs here insist that it is solid copper molds that give the best results)

8. Fill to the brim. (Pouring from a jug is easiest)

The secret to Canelés lies in the cooking time. As soon as the Canelés are in the molds bump the oven up to 300°C and place the molds in the oven for ten minutes. After that, reduce the heat to 180°C for fifty minutes to one hour. Towards the end the cakes must be dark brown and they will need to be carefully watched and removed from the oven as soon as the desired color is attained. Remove from the molds as quickly as possible and place on a wire grill.

About the AuthorMike has lived and worked in France for the past twelve years. Although he writes on a broad range of subjects ranging from nature to gardening, Mike has found himself being drawn more and more into the field of food writing. Here cooking goes beyond passion and takes on an almost mythical life of its own. Such feeling is infectious and when embraced, provides a wonderful window both into French culture and the lives of the people that live here.

History in a Copper Mold