RachelKhoo

RACHEL KHOO ’S KITCHEN NOTEBOOK

Over100deliciousrecipesfrommypersonalcookbook

PhotographybyDavidLoftusIllustrationsbyRachelKhoo

Contents

Introduction

Starters

Mains

Sweets

HomemadeTreats

Equipment

Cook’sNotes&Ingredients

Acknowledgements

FollowPenguin

Icarryanotebookeverywhere,anditalmostalwaysendsuptattered,dog-earedandsplashedwithvariousfoodstainsfromeatingmywayaroundtheworldorcookinginmykitchen.Therecipes,illustrations,kitchentitbitsandtipsthatendupinmynotebookareallsomethingthatIwantedtoshare.Recipesthatreflectbothmyculinarypastandmypresent,theplacesI’vebeen,mykitchenexperiences…abookthattellsastoryofhowIcookinthekitchen.

Afterwritingtwocookbooksthatchronicledmyexplorationoflacuisinefrançaise,Ifeltitwastimetoshowmytruecolourswiththisbook.MychildhoodplayedabigpartinformingmyculinaryDNA,buttheexperiencesandculturesI’veexposedmyselftoinmyadultlifehavealsobeenformativeinthewaymycookingstylehasevolved.Thelastseveralyearshavebeenpackedtighterthanatinofsardineswithadventuresclosetohomeandbeyond.I’vevisitedaneclecticrangeofplaces,fromtheScandi-coolStockholmandthefragrantdelightsoftheEastinIstanbul,totheslightlyrough-around-the-edgesNaples,aswellasrediscoveringmyhometown,London,withitsvibrant,energeticfoodscene.

EventhoughI’velivedinParisforeightyears,Iamnot‘thatFrenchwomanoffthetelly’,asI’vefrequentlybeendescribedsincetheLittleParisKitchenTVshowaired.I’mquiteproudlyBritish(despitethemanyyearsofBritishfoodbashingIenduredinFrance),withacolourfulculinaryheritage,thankstomyMalaysiandadandAustrianmum.LivinginBavariaasateenagerhasalsoplayeditspart.Mytastebudswerestimulatedfromayoungagewithspices,flavoursandsmellsfromSouth-EastAsia,sweetandheart-warmingdishesfromAustria,aswellassomeBritishclassicslikeroastbeefandYorkshirepuddings.AlthoughIhadadiverseculinaryupbringing,myparentswerenotsnobbywhenitcametofood.Theyunderstoodtheimportanceofnutritioushome-cookedfood

andtheritualofsittingdownforamealeverydayasafamily,buttheoddfastfoodtreatorTVdinnerwasstillallowed.Mymumhasalwaysbeenasavvyshopper,neverwastingathingandever-inventivewithleftovers.Ourso-called‘leftoversnight’,acommonthingathome,wouldoftenlooklikethefoodieequivalentofaUnitedColoursofBenettoncommercial,withschnitzel,shepherd’spie,rendangcurryandstir-friedriceallonthetableatthesametime.WhenIlookback,Ithinkmyparentswereunintendedfoodievisionarieswiththeirleftoverfusionfood.EatingAustriandumplingsoupwithsomecharsiuroastedporkandpickledchillieswasnotunusualintheKhoohousehold,andthiswasbackintheeighties,longbeforeKoreantacosorkebabpizzawerethenorm.

Icomefromacreativebackground.Ispentfouryearsatartcollege,workingonprojectswherethemainobjectivewastocommunicateanideathroughaparticularmedium,inmycasegraphic/webdesignandphotography.Iwasinitiallydrawntofoodbecauseit’sawayofexpressingmycreativitywithanaddedtastybonus.SinceIstartedwritingcookbooks,IfeellikeIhavehitthejackpot.Itcombinesmanyofmypassions:creativity,socializingandeating!

ThewayIgoaboutcreatingarecipebookissimilartothecreativepracticeIlearntatartcollege.Justlikeanartproject,itallstartswithhands-onresearch,initialideasscribbledinmynotebook,whichevolveintoexperimentsandthenthefinalpiece.Iliketotravel,tomeetpeople,toexperiencethefood,theculture,theflavours,sights,soundsandsmellsfirst-hand,gatheringtheinspirationandresearchtofeedmybrainandtummywithideas.Thoseideasendupbeinganinitialscribbleandsketchinmynotebook.Then,whenitcomestotakingthesketchfromconcepttorecipecreation,chaosensuesinthekitchen,withpots,pansandmanyingredientsbeingthrownaround.Moreoftenthannot,therecipedoesnotturnoutquitethewayIimaginedonpaper.However,eventhefailuresareusuallysuccesses:Imightdiscoveranewflavourcombination,ortexture,orcookingtechnique.Ifit’sreallyatotaldisaster,itultimatelyhelpsmetowriteabetterrecipe,asI’llthenunderstandbetterwhatcangowronginthekitchen.Ialwaysbelievethatfailuresarepartoftheprocess.It’showyoudealwiththemthatwilleventuallyinfluencewhetheryousucceedornot.

ThefamouscommunicationphilosopherMarshallMcLuhanoncesaidthat‘themediumisthemessage’.Acookbookhasatactileandpersonalelementthata

mediumisthemessage’.AcookbookhasatactileandpersonalelementthatarecipeonatabletorTVshowcan’thave.Readingatabletinthebathtubisalittlemoreriskythanreadingabook.Butthisgoesbeyondthephysicalobjectforme.IthinkofarecipeasalittlesnapshotofwhatI’veexperienced,andputtingthemtogetherinabookislikecollatingapersonalculinarydiary.

It’satime-consumingprocess,butIloveeverypartofit,fromtheresearch,recipedevelopmentandwritingaboutmypersonalstories,tothephotoshoot,wherethebookbeginstotakeavisualshape.Writingabookmaystartoffasasolitaryactivity,butthemorethebookprogresses,themoreessentialitistoworkwithpeopleyouadmireandfindinspiring(moreaboutthemintheAcknowledgements).Theyallplayapartinpushingmeasafoodwriterandmakingthebookthebestitcanbe.

Myideasstartwithataste,aflavourandasketchinmykitchennotebook,thenevolvefromexperimentsinmykitchenbackintothebookandeventually(Ihope!)toyourkitchenandyourmouths.Myculinaryholygrailistofindmycookbookonyourbookshelfwithgreasyfingerprints,food-stainsplattersandyourownpersonalscribblesontherecipes.

Thisbookisacollectionofrecipesthatwereinspiredbymytravels,adventuresandfoodexperiences,whichIhope,ultimately,inspireyoutocook!

Lightbitesorsmalldishestotantalizeyourtastebuds:that’swhatstartersareallabout.Moreoftenthannottheysetatone,showingyourguestswhatculinarydelightsawaitthemandgivingthemalittletasteofwhat’sinstore.Startersalsomakeafantasticmealforoneortwo–seemylittlesoccacakeswithratatouilleormyhotbutterandsoysaucemackerelwithchoppedsalad.IoftenoptforaselectionofstartersratherthanonemaincoursewhenIeatout.I’mneverhappywithjustoneplateoffood;Iliketotrylotsofdifferentthings–andwithsmalldishesIcanleavetherestaurantwithoutfeelinglikeIneedaforklifttrucktotakemehome.SinceIbegandevelopingrecipesforaliving,Ioftenalsofindmyselfhavingastarterasalunchorlightdinner,andsometimesevenforbreakfast…orperhapsthat’sjustmyAsianheritagecomingtolight.

Startersaren’tjustreservedforspecialoccasions.OntheContinentitisperfectlynormal,andtotallysensibleinmymind,tokickoffahomemeal–guestsornoguests,mid-weekorbrunch–withalittleappetitewhetter;it’sagreatwayofprolongingtimespentatthetabletoo.WhenIcookedforaFrenchfamily,Idiscoveredthatastartercansimplybeasliceofperfectlyripemelonwithafewribbonsofsalty,sweetBayonneham.Forsomeothereasy,quickstarters,seemypoachedfennelwithpinkprawnsandtoastedalmonds,pancontomateortheratherunusualmorcilla,eggandcrisps.

Idon’tbelieveyouneedtoservesomethingcomplexinordertowowyourguests,butifyou’relookingtopushtheboatoutthensomeofmyfavouritesaremyultra-blingsmörgåstårtaormydaintybakedgoat’scheesecigarswithmelon,radishandcucumberslaw.

Andifyou’renewtothekitchen,orhaveatendencytoburnyourfood,Ievenhavearecipeforyoutoo:myburntleekparcelswithromescosauce.It’soneofthosefewrecipesinwhichburningyourfoodisnotsomuchundesirableasasought-afteroutcome.

ThearchipelagoaroundStockholm,withitscrystal-clearwater,crispfreshairanduntouchedscenery,capturedwhatformeistheessenceofSweden.Itisthejuxtapositionofwaterandforestthatinspiredthisrecipe,and,ofcourse,theSwedes’loveofmeatballs.Iturnedtraditiononitsheadalittle,andletthecoastinspirethesefishballs.Butthesearen’tjustanyoldfishballs.

InsteadoftakingthemoretraditionalSwedishapproachtomakingmeatballs(groundmeatorfish,rolledintoaball),I’vetakeninspirationfrommyChineseheritage.IlovethechewytextureofChinesefishballs,whichiscreatedbyslappingtheflesharound.I’vespottedoldladiesinfishmarketsinMalaysiadoingthis.Thepoundingandslammingofthefishstretchesanduncoilsthepreviouslywoundproteinstrands,whichmakesforthisunusualbouncytexture.

Forthesoup1tbspoliveoil

2knobsofbutter2onions,peeledandfinelychopped2clovesofgarlic,peeledandminced

2sprigsofthyme500gportobellomushrooms,roughlychoppedseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper500mlgood-qualitybeeforchickenstock300mlsinglecreamzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonForthefishballs(makes16)

400gcodorpollackloin,skinnedanddeboned2tbspchoppedfreshdill,plusextratogarnish½tspseasalt¼tspwhitepepper50mlwater

Forthetopping60gwildmushrooms(suchaschanterelles,girollesorpieddemouton),brushed,torniflarge

1knobofbutter2–3knäckebröd,orryecrispbread

Heattheoilandbutterinalargepan,addtheonions,garlic,sprigsofthymeandmushrooms,thenseasonwithsaltandpepperandcookuncoveredonalowheatfor15minutes,oruntilsoft.

Inthemeantime,preparethefishballs.Patthefishdrywithkitchentowel.Inafoodprocessor,blendthefishtoasmoothpastewiththedill,saltandpepper.Addabout40mlofthewaterandkeepblending.Checktheconsistencyandaddasmuchwaterasneededtobindintoapaste;youwantittobepaste-likebutnottoowettoformintoballs.

Nowit’stimetostartslappingyourfish.Takethemixtureinyourhandsandkeepslappingitdownonacleanworksurface,foraminuteortwo.Asthemixtureisthrowndownmoreandmore,youwillnoticeabouncedevelopinthetexture.

Dividethemixtureinto16andshapeintosmallballs.Ifyoufinditeasier,wetyourpalmsbeforerollingthemixtureintoneatballs.Placeonacleanplate.

Addthestocktoyourmushroomsandleavetosimmerforafurther10minutes,uncovered.Addthecream.Removeanddiscardthethymestalksandwhizzupthesoupwithahandblender.

Fillamediumsaucepanwithwater,bringittotheboilanddropthefishballsintocookfor3minutes,oruntiltheyfloattothetop.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetaside.Frythewildmushroomsinafryingpanwiththebutterfor2–3minutes,thensetaside.

Finishoffthesoupbystirringinthelemonjuiceandtastingforseasoning.Dividethesoupbetweenbowls,adding4fishballstoeach.Garnishwithsomeshardsofknäckebrödascroutons,somefreshdillandlemonzest.Scattersomeofthesautéedwildmushroomsontopofeachbowl.

TipSoakthebowlofyourblenderorfoodprocessorimmediatelyaftermakingthefishpaste,asithasatendencytostick!

GetaheadYoucanmakethesoupadaybefore.Thefishballscanbeformedthedaybeforeserving,storeinanairtightcontainerandcookjustbeforeserving.

TheNiceareatendstoproducegoat’scheeseratherthancheesemadefromcow’smilk,asthelandscapeistooruggedandroughforcowstograze.Eatinggoat’scheesefromthisregionreallycapturestheflavoursoftheterroir.Goatsgrazeonwhatevergrows,fromwildherbslikeoreganoandthymetoberries,andtheseflavourssubtlyinfluencetheendproduct.Thesemakeadelectablesummerstarteroranaperitifwithaglassofrosé,showcasingtheflavoursofProvence.

1–2rectangularfilosheets(dependingonthesizeofyoursheets)60gbutter,melted8sprigsofthyme,leavespicked125gsoftgoat’scheese4tsphoney(lavenderifpossible)Fortheslaw

1smallcucumberor½aregularcucumber½unripegaliamelon,seedsremoved6radishes,trimmedandslicedintothinroundsForthedressing

1tbspextravirginoliveoil½tbspredwinevinegarseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper,totaste

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).

Unrollasheetoffilohorizontallyonyourworksurface.Cutthefilosheetinhalflengthwaysandinhalfcrosswaystomake4rectanglesmeasuringapproximately15cm×20cm.Laythemalloutontheworksurface,thenbrushtherectanglesgenerouslywithbutter,ensuringthatabout1tablespoonissavedtobrushthetops.

Sprinklesomethymeleavesalongthelonglengthofeachpastryrectangleandfolditinabout2cmtoencasethem.Crumblealineofgoat’scheeseinalinealongtheoppositeshortsideofthepastry.Drizzlethehoneyalongthegoat’scheeseoneachpastry.Startingatthegoat’scheeseend,rollthepastryoverthecheeseandallwaytothethyme,sealingthejoin.Repeattheprocesstomake4cigars.

Placeonalinedbakingtrayandbrushagainwiththeremainingbutter.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgoldenandcrisp.

Inthemeantime,makethesaladbyusingamandolinorspeedpeelertojuliennethecucumberandthemelonflesh.Placethemallinabowlwiththeradishes.Putthedressingingredientsintoasmallbowlorjamjarandmixwell.

Oncethecigarsarecooked,tossyoursaladwiththedressingandplaceinthecentreofyourplate.Servewiththecigarsontop.

TipsFilosheetsdryoutreallyquickly.Besuretostoretheminclingfilm.Begentlewhenbrushingthesheetsastheycanteareasily.

Youcanflavourthegoat’scheesewithanydriedherbsorspices,forexamplecayennepepper,smokedpaprika,groundcuminorchilli,alsotryaspoonfulofyourfavouritechutneyorcaramelizedonionsinplaceofthehoney.

Oneofthegreatthingsabouttapasisthattheycanbewhippedupinaflash.Thisspeedylittlestewisathomeonatableladendownwithaselectionoftapas,orserveitfortwoandhaveatastymealinminutes.

8springonions

1tbspoliveoil1tbspfinelychoppedfreshrosemaryleaves

1tspsmokedsweetpaprika400gtinofcookedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed(drainedweight250g)

2chorizocookingsausages1×400gtinofcherrytomatoes

2tbspsherryvinegar

Chopthespringonionsintorounds,separatingthewhiteandgreenparts.Puttheoilintoalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Addthewhitepartofthespringonions,therosemary,smokedpaprikaandchickpeastothepanandfryfor2minutes.

Slicethechorizointo1cmrounds,addtothepanandcookfor2minutes.Addthesherryvinegar,turndowntheheatandcookgently,uncovered,forafurther5minutes,stirringoccasionally.

Addthetinnedtomatoesandcookforafurther10minutes.Tasteforseasoning,andadjustifnecessary.

Finishthestewoffwiththegreentopsofthespringonions,justbeforeserving.

Finishthestewoffwiththegreentopsofthespringonions,justbeforeserving.

OK,soitsoundsalittleoutthere,butthistastytapaisnotascrazyasyoumightthink.UnliketheBritishrelationshipwithcrisps,wherewemightstopbythecornershopforasneakybagofWalker’s,there’salong-standingtraditionofhandmade,freshlyfriedcrispsinSpain.IatethisdishinatapasbarinBarcelona;Ilovedtheideathatyoucanpimpupabagofcrisps,soIhaverecreatedithere.

100gbagofready-saltedcrisps150gmorcilla,skinremoved1tbspoliveorrapeseedoil

3eggs

Emptyyourbagofcrispsintoaservingdish.

Roughlycrumbleorchopthemorcilla.Heatalargenon-stickfryingpananddry-frythemorcillafor3–4minutesbeforescatteringitoverthecrisps.

Addtheoiltothefryingpan,heat,andcracktheeggsinonebyone.Cookfor2–3minutes,untilthewhiteissetbuttheyolkisstillrunny(putalidorplateoverthepantospeeditup).

Placethefriedeggsoverthemorcillaandbreakthemupwithyourforktoeat.

WhenevertherearemezzebeingservedinTurkey,asmalldishoftzatzikiislikelytoappear.It’sasimpleblendofcucumber,garlicandcreamyyoghurt,buteachfamilyandrestaurantwillhavetheirownsecretmethodandratio,makingittheirsignature.

InmyviewtheperfecttzatzikiismadeusingacrunchyLebaneseorridgecucumberwiththeseedsscoopedout;saltingitinacolanderalsodrawsoutthemoisture.Pomegranateseedsaretheperfectwaytopimpupanydish,savouryorsweet,andtheyaddanexceedinglysatisfyingcrunch.

8razorclams½alemon75gGreekyoghurt1smallcloveofgarlic,peeledandmincedapinchofseasalt½aLebanesecucumberorridgecucumber,peeled

4tbsppomegranateseeds

Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Setupalargebowloficedwaternearby.Drop4razorclamsintotheboilingwater,thenfishthemoutalmostimmediatelywithapairoftongsanddropthemstraightintothecoldwater.Theyshouldopenbutnotcook.Repeatwiththeremainingclams.

Pulltheclamsoutoftheirshellsandprepthem:useapairofscissorstocuttheblacksacoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsinto

blacksacoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsintothumbnail-sizedpieces.Puttheclamsintoabowlandsqueezealittlelemonjuiceoverthetop.Washanddry8half-shellsandsetaside.

Mixtogethertheyoghurt,garlic,saltandasqueezeoflemontotaste.Placeinadisposablepipingbagorfoodbagandsniptheendoff.

Cutthecucumberinhalflengthwaysandscoopouttheseeds.Cutintofinejuliennestripsonamandolinorbyhand.

Put2or3blobsofthegarlicyoghurtalongahalf-shell.Puttheclampiecesinbetweentheblobsofyoghurt.Garnishwithalittlecucumberandscattersomeofthepomegranateseedsover.Repeatwiththeremaininghalf-shells.

TipAgoodwaytotellifyourclamsarefreshistoticklethefoot,whichshouldretractstraightaway;ifthereisnosignoflife,don’tbuythem.

OnthePrinces’IslandsinTurkey,seafoodisastaple.Midyedolma–musselsstuffedwithrice,pinenuts,currantsandspices–aresoldonthebeachfront,andservedastheinspirationforthislittlemezzeofmine.‘Mezze’meanstaste,flavour,snackorrelish,whichisliterallyhowtheseareintendedtobeserved–astasters,alongsideotherlittledishes.Butdon’tthinkyouhavetomakelotsofcomplicateddishesforasuccessfulspread;simplyusingonemainingredientandvaryingitwithsomesidesorgarnishesisalessfussysolution.Thisstuffed-clamrecipepairsperfectlywiththerazorclamswithtzatzikiandpomegranate.

50guncooked(or100gcooked)brownrice

8razorclams2tbspoliveoil,plusextrafordrizzling1smallonion,peeledandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced8cherrytomatoes,roughlychopped1smallredchilli,deseededandfinelychopped

1tbspredwinevinegar1smallredRomanopepper,deseededandfinelychopped1tbspdriedmint

2sprigsofparsely

Cookthericeaccordingtopacketinstructions.Drainandleavetocoolundercoldrunningwater,thendrainagain.Preheatthegrill.

Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Setupalargebowloficedwaternearby.

Drop4razorclamsintotheboilingwater,thenfishthemoutalmostimmediatelywithapairoftongsanddropthemstraightintothecoldwater.Theyshouldopenbutnotcook.Repeatwiththeremainingclams.

Pulltheclamsoutoftheirshellsandprepthem:useapairofscissorstocuttheblacksackoutoftheclam,removethe‘beak’,thenchoptheclamsintothumbnail-sizedpiecesandputthemintoabowl.Washanddry8half-shellsandsetaside.

Putatablespoonofoilintoalargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addtheonion,garlic,tomatoesandchilli,andfryforabout15minutes,oruntilthetomatoesandonionsaresoftbutnotbrown.Blend(ahandblenderinasmalljugworkswellhere)withtheredwinevinegartoasmoothpaste.

Wipethefryingpanandpourinatablespoonofoiloveramediumheat.Addthebrownriceandfryforabout10minutes,oruntilgoldenandcrisp.Addtheclamsforthelastcoupleofminutes.

Spreadsomeofthesauceonthebottomofahalf-shell,followedbysomeofthecrispyriceandclamsandRomanopepperpieces.Sprinklewithalittledriedmintandparsley,anddrizzlewitholiveoil.Repeatwiththeremaininghalf-shells.

TipSeehere.

InBrittanytheyhavecrêpesandgalettes(buckwheatpancakes),butinNicetheyhavesocca.It’sasortofpancakemadefromchickpeaflour,whichisbakedinawood-firedovenandhasacrispy,slightlyblistered,charredcrust.Athomeit’salittledifficulttorecreatethatsmokyflavour(unlessyouhappentohaveawood-firedoven),butit’sworthmakingnevertheless.

Fortheratatouille2clovesofgarlic,peeledandminced1onion,peeledandfinelychopped1tspfreshthymeleaves

3tbspoliveoil1aubergine,thinlysliced1smallcourgette,thinlysliced1yellowpepper,thinlysliced6tomatoes,cutintoquartersapinchofsugarseasalt

Fortheanchovysauce10anchovies(1×50gtinofanchoviesinoliveoil)2tbspextravirginoliveoiloroilfromtheanchovytinzestandjuiceof½anunwaxedlemon30mlwaterForthesocca200gchickpeaflour(alsoknowasgramflour)1tspdriedoregano

1tspseasalt3tbspoliveoilforthebatter,plusextraforfrying230mlwater

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).

Gentlyfrythegarlic,onionandthymeleavesin2tablespoonsofoil.Oncetheonionistranslucentandsoft,addtheaubergineandcookforaround5minutes,oruntilsoft.

Tosstheremainingvegetablesinalargeroastingtinwithatablespoonofoil,thesugarandalittlesalt.Addthecookedonionandaubergine,andmixthemtogether.Coverthetraywithfoilorbakingpaper,thenbakefor1hour.

Inthemeantime,makethesauceinafoodprocessorbywhizzingtogethertheanchovies,oil,lemonzestandjuice,andwater.Thesauceshouldbetheconsistencyofdoublecream,soaddalittlemorewaterifnecessary.Setaside.

Nowpreparethesocca.Whiskthechickpeaflour,oreganoandsaltwiththeoilandwater.Put1teaspoonofoilintoanon-stickfryingpanoveramedium-highheat,thenladleabout3tablespoonsofbatterintoacircle,creatingan8cm-diameterpancake.Cookfor1minuteoneachside,oruntilgolden.Repeatwiththerestofthebatter.

Dividethesoccabetweentheplates,thenaddagenerousheapofratatouille,followedbyadrizzleoftheanchovysauce.

TipBesuretogetthepanniceandhotforthesocca.

GetaheadThesoccacanbemadeinadvance,andkeptwrappedinclingfilm.Reheatintheovenat160°C(fan)for20minutes.

Youcanalsomaketheratatouilleinadvanceandreheatitintheovenat160°C(fan)for20minutes.

Thisrecipeislooselyinspiredbythephenomenal‘meatfruit’atHestonBlumenthal’sLondonrestaurant,Dinner.Themostperfectlyglossymandarinarrivesatthetable,whichyoucutopentorevealasilkychickenliverandfoiegrasparfait.

Forthechickenliverparfait50gsaltedbutter1shallot,peeledandthinlysliced2clovesofgarlic,peeledandcrushed

2sprigsofthyme125gchickenlivers,trimmed

1tbspbrandy½tspseasalt¼tspfinelygroundpepperForthejellytopping

1gelatinleaf75mlorangejuice(juiceof1orange)1tbspsugar

1smallorangeorclementineFortheoatcakes

50grawbeetroot(approx.½abeetroot)30goats70gplainflour½tspbakingpowder½tspseasalt½tbspsugar50gbutter,meltedandcooledEquipment

a5cmcookiecutter1×250mlcliptopjarorramekin

Meltasmallknobofthesaltedbutterinalargepanandaddtheshallot,garlicandthyme.Cookonalowheatfor5minutes,oruntiltheshallothassoftenedbuthasn’tbrowned.Turnuptheheatandaddtheliversandbrandy,thencookforabout2minutesoneachside,oruntilthelivershavebrownedbutarestillslightlypinkinthemiddle.

Leavetocoolfor5minutes.Removethethyme,thenwhizztheliversinafoodprocessororblenderwiththeremainingsaltedbutterandthesaltandpepper.Dividetheparfaitmixturebetweenthesmalljarsorramekinsandsmooththetopswithaspoon.Leaveinthefridgewhileyoumakethejelly.

Soakthegelatinleafincoldwaterfor5–10minutes.Pourtheorangejuiceintoapanwiththesugar.Heatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Squeezethegelatinleafandpourawaythewater.Straintheorangejuicethroughasievedirectlyontothegelatinleaf.Stirtodissolve.

Peelthesmallorangeorclementinewithaparingknife,removingallthepith,andsliceintothinrounds.Topthechickenliverparfaitwithanorangeround,thenpourthejellymixtureontop.Leavetosetforatleast2hoursbutpreferablyovernight.

Tomaketheoatcakes,preheattheovento160°C(fan).Peelandfinelygratethebeetroot,thenplaceinabowl.Addtheoats,plainflour,bakingpowder,saltandsugar,mixwell,thenaddthecooledmeltedbutterandbringtogethertoformaball.

Rolloutwitharollingpinbetweentwosheetsofbakingpapertoabout4–5mmthick.Cutintoroundsusinga5cmcookiecutterandputonalinedbakingtray.Rolltheleftoverdoughoutagainandcutoutsomemorerounds,sothatyouhave16oatcakesintotal.Bakefor25–30minutes,thenleavetocoolonarack.

GetaheadTheparfaitcanbemade1–2daysbeforeserving.

IstanbullieshalfinEuropeandhalfinAsiaandthatfusionhasinfluencedthelocalfoodgreatly,justlikethemixofAsiansoysauceandEuropeanbutterthatsittogetherhappilyinthisdish.

MackereliseverywhereinIstanbul,whetherit’satthefishmarket,sofreshit’sstillfloppingaround,orbeingflippedoveronahotgrillonastreetfoodstand.It’scheapandverynutritious,richinomega3.

100gunsaltedbutter

Forthesalad

2tbspwhitewinevinegar½aredonion,peeledandthinlysliced1smallLebanesecucumberor½aregularcucumber,peeled5mediumtomatoes,quartered1tbspfinelychoppedfreshdillapinchofseasalt

1tbsppomegranatemolassesForthemackerel2tspchoppedfreshthymeleaves

1tspdriedmint4mackerelfillets,debonedbutskinlefton30mllightsoysauceortamariEquipmentacheeseclothormuslin

Startbyclarifyingthebutter.Heatitinasaucepanoveraverylowheat,untilit’smelted.Letitsimmergentlyuntilthefoamrisestothetop.Oncethebutterstopssplutteringandnomorefoamseemstoberisingtothesurface,removefromtheheatandskimoffthefoamwithaspoon.

heatandskimoffthefoamwithaspoon.

Lineameshsievewithacheeseclothormuslinandsetthesieveoverabowl.Carefullypourthewarmbutterthroughthesieveintothebowl,leavingbehindanysolidsfromthebottomofthepan.Discardthemilksolidsleftinthecheesecloth.

Meanwhile,putthewhitewinevinegarintoasmallbowl,addtheredonionandleavetosoak.Deseedthecucumber,cutintosmallcubesandputintoalargebowl.Addthetomatoesanddill,sprinklewiththesaltandmixtogether.

Mixtogetherthethymeleavesanddriedmint.Heatalargenon-stickfryingpanandput1tablespoonoftheclarifiedbutterintothepan.Whenthepanissmokinghot,addthemackerelfilletsskinsidedown.Cookfor2minutesbeforeturningoverandcookingforanother2minutes.

Addthesoysaucetotheremainingclarifiedbutter.Drizzlethefishwiththesauceandsprinklewiththeherbmix.Tosstheonionwiththeothersaladingredientsandthepomegranatemolasses.

Servethemackerelonabedofsalad.Drizzleoveratablespoonofthecookingjuicesontoeachmackerelfillet.

TipIfyoucan’tfindpomegranatemolasses,useamixtureoflemonjuiceandhoneyinstead.

Iloveasalad,andIoftenwishsaladsgotalittlebitmoreattentionasthehighlightofameal.Theyarealltoooftenseenasdietfood,carelesslypulledfromabagandtossedwithabottleddressing,butthat’snothowit’sdoneinmyhome.

Makingagreatsaladisallaboutbeingcreativewithyourpresentation.Don’tjustsliceorchop;playaroundwithdicing,makingribbons,batons…Differenttexturesandtemperaturesarealsokeytoagreatsalad.Crunchy,soft,creamy,hotandcold:don’tbeafraidtomixitup.Icertainlyhaven’twithmyEnglishgardensalad.

1tspcastersugar6tbspwhitewinevinegar

2tbspwater1redonion,peeledandthinlysliced2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcutinto1cmcubes8rashersofsmokedbackbacon,finelychopped1smallcucumberor½aregularcucumber300gcottagecheese(seehere,orshop-bought)8tbspcrèmefraîcheorGreekyoghurtasmallbunchoffinelychoppedchivesapinchofseasalt½tspfreshlygroundpepper8radishes,thinlysliced

2handfulsoffreshpeas2handfulsofsaladleaves,washed

Dissolvethesugarinthevinegarandwaterinasmallbowl.Addhalftheoniontothebowlandmix.

Placethecubesofpotatoinamediumsaucepan.Coverwithsaltedcoldwater,bringtotheboil,thensimmerforabout5minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.

bringtotheboil,thensimmerforabout5minutes,oruntiljusttender.Drain.

Putthebaconintoalargenon-stickfryingpanonamediumheat.Fryfor2minutes,thenaddtheotherhalfoftheonionandcookinthebaconfatfor10minutes.Addtheparboiledpotatoesandcookforaround5–7minutes,oruntileverythingislightlygolden,stirringoccasionallysoeverythingbrownsevenly.

Meanwhile,peelribbonsfromonehalfofthecucumberwithaspeedpeeler.Cuttheotherhalfintosmallcubes.

Mixthecottagecheesewiththecrèmefraîche,chives,saltandpepper.Tasteandaddmoreseasoningifdesired.Draintheonionfromthepicklingliquid.

Toassemble,spreadthecottagecheesemixtureontofourplates.Dividethehotpotatoandbaconmixbetweentheplates,followedbythecubesandribbonsofcucumber,radishslices,freshrawpeasandsaladleaves.Placesomeofthepickledonionontop,andserveimmediately.

Driedpulsesandlegumes(e.g.chickpeas,lentilsandharicotbeans)seemtobeamongthoseitemsthatareboughtonaspur-of-the-momenthealthwhim,butthenlieforgottenatthebackofthestorecupboardforacoupleofyears.

Blowoffthedustandmakeadeliciousdishlikethisharicotbeansalad.It’scheapandnutritious,andmakesasurprisinglytastyalternativetobog-standardroastpotatoesasasidedishformyProvençalroastchicken.

200gdriedharicotbeans2tbspredwinevinegar

3tbspextravirginoliveoilapincheachofseasaltandsugar1smallredonion,peeledandfinelychoppedahandfulofchoppedchivesfreshlygroundpepper

Soakthedriedharicotbeansinalargebowlofcoldwaterovernight,orforabout8hours.Drainthebeansandplaceinalargesaucepanwithplentyofcoldwatertocover.Bringtotheboil,skimmingoffanyscumthatcomestothesurface,andcookfor1–1½hours,toppingupthewaterwithjust-boiledwaterifnecessary.Whenthebeansaretender,drainthroughacolanderandsetaside.

Makethedressingfortheharicotsalad.Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheredwinevinegarwiththeoil,saltandsugar.Addtheredonionandtossinthewarmharicotbeans.

Sprinklewiththechoppedchivesandpepper,andserve.

Sprinklewiththechoppedchivesandpepper,andserve.

TipsThesaladcanbemadeinadvanceandservedatroomtemperature.Whenseeingifthebeansarecooked,checkafewdifferentonesastheycancookatdifferentspeeds.

Ifyoudon’thavetimetosoakthebeans,tinnedbeansareagoodalternative.Rinsethemwellbeforeusing.However,whentossingtheminthedressing,dosogentlyastheytendtobesofterthanthehome-cookedvariety.Theequivalentquantityforthisrecipeisabout2×400gtinsofcookedharicots(drainedweightapprox.460g).

‘…everytimeachildsays,“Idon’tbelieveinfairies,”thereisafairysomewherethatfallsdowndead,’Peterreplies.

That’showIfeeleverytimeajournalistasksmewhatmyfavouritedishis.OK,maybecomparinganinterviewquestiontothedeathoffairiesisalittledramatic,butIdowanttosigheverytimeI’maskedthis.Howcanyouasksomeonewholovesfoodwhattheirfavouritedishis?It’slikeaskingCarriefromSexandtheCitywhatherfavouritepairofshoesis:it’simpossibletoanswer.WhatIfancyeatingdependsona)whattheweatherislike;b)whereIam;andc)thestateofmyfridge.

TherecipesI’vecrammedintothischapteraretheresultofvariousdifferentcravingsorscenarios.Onahotsummer’sday,trymychickensummersalad.Whenyouneedaquickdinnerbuthavehardlyanythinginthefridge,mycourgettelinguine,withthreedifferentsaucestopickfrom,isperfect.Whenyou’dliketoimpressthein-laws,there’smyvenisonsteakwithceleriacpurée,pickledblackberriesandcarrotpetals.Ifyou’reentertainingabunchofmates,myseafoodchilliwithtortillabowls.Foraveggie,low-carbdinner,mystir-friedcauliflowerrice.Forasimple,everydaydinnerforthefamily,myProvençalroastchickenwithroastedfennel;orforacomfortingTVdinnertokickbackwith,mypeepingmushroompasta.

AnotherquestionI’moftenaskediswhatyoushouldcookforaromanticmeal.Myanswer:don’t.Well,notonyourfirstdate,oryoursecond,andpossiblynotevenonyourthird.Nervesarenotwhatyouneedwhenyou’reslavingoveramealandtryingtolookyourbest.Trustme:havingworkedinprofessionalkitchens,Iknow.However,ifyou’rebeyondtheinitialawkwarddatingstage,thena)doyourhomeworkandaskyourdatewhattheydoordon’tlike(Ilearntthislessonthehardwayafterservingmeattoaveggie);b)keepitsimple;andc)don’tservetoomuchfood(asthiswillmakeyousleepy…yougetmydrift).Afewdishestohelpyouwithyourromanticencounters:myspeedysummerbolognese,myone-trayroastormymushroomstroganoffwithspinachandwildrice.

Whateveryourappetite,there’sarecipesuretosatisfyit.

BackwhenIwasakid,breakfastfordinnerwasfarmorederigueur,whetheritwasasneakyfry-up,beansontoast,orkippers.Thisisafancyversionofafry-up.Herethepillowypotatocrumpetsstandinforthemoretraditionalheavyhashbrowns,whiletheblisteredtomatoesareaspeedyandfreshsubstituteforketchup.

170mlmilk100–110mlwater160gpotatoflour80gplainwhiteflour7gfast-actionyeast250gcherrytomatoesonthevineseasalt½tspbakingpowder4–6tbspsunflowerorvegetableoil2largegammonsteaks(450gintotal)2tspEnglishmustard2tspmaplesyrup

4eggsEquipmentan8cmcookiecutter4×9cmpastryrings

Warmthemilkandwatergentlyinasmallsaucepan.Putthefloursandyeastintoabowlandmixwell.Addthemilkandwaterandwhiskuntilsmooth.Itwillbetheconsistencyofsinglecream.Coverwithclingfilmandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor1–2hours,oruntilbubbleshaveformedonthesurface.

Preheattheovento200°C(fan).Putthetomatoesonalinedbakingtray,sprinklewithsaltandplaceintheovenfor10minutes,oruntiltheyhaveburst.Setasideandturntheovendownto160°C.

Whisk½teaspoonofsaltandthebakingpowderintothecrumpetbatter.Puta

Whisk½teaspoonofsaltandthebakingpowderintothecrumpetbatter.Putaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatandpourin2tablespoonsofoil.Oilapastryring,placeitinthepanandpour80mlofbatterintoit.Turntheheatdowntomedium-lowandcookfor5minutesorso,oruntilthesurfacehasjustsetandbubbleshaveformed.Removetheringandflipthecrumpetover.Cookfor2–3minutes,oruntilgoldenontheotherside.

Repeatwiththeremainingbatter;thisshouldmake5crumpetsintotal.Setasideonawirerack.

Putanothertablespoonofoilintoalargefryingpanandheatuntilmedium-hot.Addthegammonsteaksandcookfor1–2minutesononeside.Flipthemoverandfryfor1moreminute.Spreadthetopswiththemustard,thenthemaplesyrup,andslideoutofthepan.Usethe8cmcookiecuttertocutout4piecesfromthegammonsteaks.Keepwarmonabakingtrayintheovenwhileyoumaketheeggs.

Oilthepastryringsonceagain.Putatablespoonofoilinthepan,cracktheeggsintotherings,andfrytheeggsfor2–3minutes,oruntilthewhitehasset.Toserve,dividethepotatocrumpetsbetween4plates.Putagammonsliceandfriedeggontopofeachone,anddrapethevinetomatoesoverthem.

Brisketisafattyandgreat-valuecutfromthefrontundersideofthecow.Itismostcommonlyusedtomakepastramiandsaltbeef,whichhasseenquiteacomebackinrecentyears.Formany,however,ithasalwaysbeenonthemap,particularlyforfanslikemyselfwhomakearegularpilgrimagetoBeigelBakeonBrickLanefortheirexemplarysaltbeefbagelswithlashingsofEnglishmustard.

1kgpieceofbeefbrisket1onion1carrot1stickofcelery1bayleaf5blackpeppercornscornichonsorslicedgherkins,toserveForthebrine

100glightbrownmuscovadosugar150gcoarseseasalt1tspblackpeppercorns4juniperberries,lightlybruised2staranise4cloves3bayleaves

1.5litreswaterForthedillvinaigrette10gfreshdill4tbspsunfloweroil4tbspwhitewinevinegar1tspseasaltalargepinchofcastersugarForthemash

1kgflourypotatoes(e.g.MarisPiperorKingEdward)2knobsofbutter100–200mlmilk,warmed1tbsphorseradishcreamseasalt

Placetheingredientsforthebrineinalargesaucepan.Bringtotheboilandsimmerfor5minutes,stirringtodissolvethesaltandsugar.Leavetocoolcompletely.

completely.

Placeyourbeefinaplasticliddedcontainerandpourthebrineoverthetop.Makesureitisfullysubmerged(youmayhavetoweightitdownwithsomething)andplaceinthefridgeforaminimumof3daysandupto10days.Turnthemeatdaily.

Whenreadytocook,drainthebeef,discardingthemarinade,andrinseundercoldrunningwater.Placeinalargesaucepanandcoverwith3litresofcoldwater.Peelandhalvetheonion,carrotandceleryandaddtothepan,alongwiththebayleafandpeppercorns.Gentlybringtoasimmer,skimmingoffanyscumthatcomestothesurface.Poachreallygently,uncovered,for3–4hours,toppingitupwithjust-boiledwaterifnecessary.

Makethedillvinaigrettebywhizzingthedill(stalksincluded)inafoodprocessororblenderwiththeotheringredients,.Tasteandaddmoresaltifdesired.

Peelthepotatoesandboiltheminsaltedwaterfor20–25minutes,oruntiltender.Drainandputbackintothepanoveramediumheat,stirringconstantly,untildry.Oncethepotatoeshavestoppedsteaming,mashthem(apotatoricerorMouligivesthebestresults).Mixwiththebutterandaddenoughwarmmilktomakeasmooth,creamymash.Addthehorseradishcreamandalittlesalt.

Whenthesaltbeefisready,removeitfromthepanandplaceonaboard,thensliceitupthinly.Servethesaltbeef,warmorhot,withthemashonthesideandplentyofcornichonsorslicedgherkins.Drizzleoverthedillvinaigrette.

GetaheadThebeeffreezeswelloncecooked.Thevinaigrettecanbemadeadayinadvance.

Thetraditionalrice-basedpaellahastravelledfarbeyonditsValencianbirthplace;IseegiantpaellapansbubblingawayatmylocalmarketonaSaturday.ButwhenIvisitedTocalMar,aquietnookalongtheSpanishcoast,Idiscoveredadelicious,little-knownvariationknownasfiduea,madewithvermicellinoodles.Inspiredbythisdiscovery,Idecidedtomakemyownversion,butmypaellanestsaretootantalizingasecretnottoshare.

2tbspoliveoil1mediumonion,peeled,halvedandfinelysliced1smallbulboffennel,trimmedandfinelysliced2clovesofgarlic,peeledandsliced1chorizocookingsausage,cutintothinrounds150mldrywhitewineagenerouspinchofsaffron750mlfishstock250gunshelledrawkingprawns200gcodormonkfishcheeks150gpurplesproutingbroccoli,roughlychopped,toughstalksdiscarded600gmixtureofclamsandmussels,cleanedForthevermicellinests140gricevermicellinoodles

2knobsofsoftbutterEquipmenta6-holemuffintin

Preheatyourovento200°C(fan).Puttheoilintoalargeliddedpanandsweattheonion,fennelandgarlicoveralowheatfor10minutes.

Putthenoodlesinabowl,pourboilingwateroverthem,thenleaveforabout20seconds,oruntiltheyarepliablebutstillhavebite.Drainandspreadoutonacleanteatoweltogetridofexcessmoisture.Patdrywithanotherteatoweluntiltheyarereallydry.Brushthemuffinholeswiththebutterandlinetheholeswith

theyarereallydry.Brushthemuffinholeswiththebutterandlinetheholeswiththenoodles.Makesureyoupushthenoodlesrighttothetopofthemuffinholes,astheywillshrinkslightly.Placeintheovenfor20–25minutes,oruntilcrispandgolden.

Addthechorizototheonionmixtureandfryuncoveredfor8–10minutes,oruntilgolden.Addthewhitewineandsaffron,andsimmerforaminutebeforeaddingthestock.Bringtotheboil.Addtheprawns,fishcheeksandbroccolistalkstothepan,andstirthrough.Simmerfor1minute,thenaddtheclams,musselsandbroccolitops.Tossthroughthesauce,coverwiththelid,crankuptheheatandcookfor3minutes.

Strainthestewthroughacolanderoveralargebowl.Returntheliquidtothepanandsimmerforabout20minutes,oruntilreducedtoyourdesiredconsistency(eitherabrothorarichsauce).

Meanwhile,removesomeofthemusselsandclamsfromtheirshellsandreturntothefishandbroccolimixture,thencoverwithaluminiumfoiltokeepwarm.

Removethevermicellinestsfromtheovenanddividebetweenlargeshallowbowls.Addaladlefulloftheseafoodtoeachofthenests,thenpourthesauceoverthetop.Arrangethefishandbroccoliaroundtheedgeofthenests.

GetaheadThenestscanbemadeinadvanceandkeptinanairtightcontainerforadayortwo.

Ifyoucookinthesamestyleasme,youprobablyvergeontheover-generoussideofportioncontrol.Somoreoftenthannotyouareleftwithplentyofleftoversinyourfridge.Ahashistheperfectwayofmakingsurenoneofthatgoestowasteandmakingleftoversgoabitfurther.IhadadeliciousoneatasmallcaféinEastLondon;itwasahamhockhashtoppedwithasunshineorangefriedegg.I’veswappedhamforsmokyhaddockandthestandardeggforsomesalmoncaviarthatpopsinyourmouth.Butfeelfreetoexperimentwithwhateverisleftinyourfridge.

1tbspoliveoil1onion,peeledandfinelychopped2mediumpotatoes,scrubbedcleanandcutinto1cmcubesapinchofseasalt150gsmokedhaddock,skinremovedandroughlychoppedblackpepper,totaste6cornichons,finelychopped3tbspcrèmefraîche1tsplemonjuice4tbspsalmoncaviar

2tbspfinelychoppedchives

Heatalargefryingpanwiththeoilandplaceoveramediumheat.Oncetheoilishot,addtheonion,potatoesandapinchofsalt.Fryonamediumheatwhilestirringeverysooftenfor20minutes,oruntiltender.Addthehaddocktothepotatoesandfryforafurther5minutes.Removefromtheheatandseasonwithplentyofblackpepper.

Inthemeantime,mixthecornichonswiththecrèmefraîcheandlemonjuice.Dividethepotatomixbetweentheplatesanddotthecornichoncrèmefraîcheandsalmoncaviarontopofthehash.Sprinkleeachplatewithplentyofchives.

TipSmokedhaddockcanbereplacedwithothersmokedfishsuchasmackerel.Ifusingsmokedsalmonomitthecookingprocess,cutintoribbonsandgarnishontop.

InspiredbytheclassicPotNoodle,thisrecipeisagourmetversionofthefastestoffoods.Youcanjazzupthissimplebowlofbrothandnoodleswithallmannerofmeatsandvegetables,thenaccessorizewithfreshherbs,spicesandseasonings.Hereyouhaveit:lunchin3minutes.

2–3cubesoffrozenreducedhamstock(seehere)orhotvegetablestock(don’ttopupwiththeboilingwater)15gricevermicellinoodles,brokenupandsoakedinboilingwaterfor1minute,thendrained30gsmokedtofu,sliced3freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced2babycorncobs,chopped

200mlboilingwater½asmallredchilli,deseededandsliced1tbspchoppedfreshcorianderoralfalfaandradishsprouts

2springonions,thinlyslicedoptional:apinchoftogarashi*orchilliflakesToserve

asqueezeoflimefishsaucelightsoysauce

Variation2–3cubesoffrozenreducedhamstock15gricevermicellinoodles,brokenupandsoakedinboilingwaterfor1minute,thendrained1tbsptomatopurée1tbspThaigreencurrypaste20gbroccoliflorets,blanched30groastchicken,shredded30gredcabbage,shredded

*aJapaneseseasoningwithchilli,orange,seaweedandsesameseeds

Placethehamstock,noodles,tofu,mushroomsandbabycorninthevesselyouareservingfrom,thenpourtheboilingwateroverthetop.Mixwellandaddthe

restofthevegetables,herbsandspices.Servewithlime,fishsauceandsoytotaste.

Allyouneedtocookthisisafryingpan.WhenIvisitedthePrinces’IslandsinTurkey,ImetaladycalledBuket,whorunsacharminglittlebohemiancafé.HerkitchenisastinyastheoneIhadinParis,butshestillmanagestorustleupdelicioustreatsforhercustomers.Shealsoprovesthatyoudon’tneedanoventomakefantasticpastries–inhercase,littlerose-shapedonesfilledwithspinach.Myversionslookmorelikesnails,andboastaheartyfillingofbutternutsquash.

oliveorvegetableoil3onions,peeledandfinelychopped350gbutternutsquash,peeledandcutinto1cmcubeszestof½anorange¼tspdriedthymeapinchofgroundcinnamonseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper100gfreshbabyspinach,washed

8largesheetsoffilopastry1egg,plus1tbspmilk,beaten,foreggwashForthespinachandcrispyspicedmincesalad

100glambmince

1tbspsumac½tspchilliflakes150gfreshbabyspinach,washedFortheyoghurtdressing

150gplainyoghurtjuiceandzestof½anorangeapinchofsugar

Put1tablespoonofoilintoalargefryingpan.Addtheonionsandfryfor5minutesbeforeaddingthebutternutsquash,orangezest,thymeandcinnamon.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thencoverandcookonalowheatfor15minutes,oruntilthebutternutistenderandtheonionsaresoft.Throwinthespinachand

oruntilthebutternutistenderandtheonionsaresoft.Throwinthespinachandstir,coveragainandallowthespinachtowiltfor1minute.Tipthefillingontoalargeplateandsetitasidetocoolcompletely.

Unrollasheetoffilopastryhorizontallyonyourworksurface.Brushthefilowiththeeggwash,thenputanothersheetontop.Placeaquarterofthestuffinginathinlinehorizontally,about4cmfromtheedgeofthesheet,thenstartrollingthefilooverthefillingtocover.Whenyouhavealong,snake-likeroll,rollitintoaspiraltomakeasnailshape.Repeatwiththerestofthefilotomake4snailsintotal.

Put1tablespoonofoilintoalargenon-stickfryingpan.Placethefoursnailsinthepanandcookonagentleheatfor15minutes.Flipoverhalfwaythrough.Thesnailsshouldbenicelycrisponbothsides.

Meanwhile,whisktogethertheyoghurtdressingingredients,seasonwithsaltandpepperandsetaside.

Mixtogetherthemince,sumacandchilliflakes.Whenthesnailsaredone,placeonaplateandcoverwithaluminiumfoiltokeepwarm.Wipethepanandput1tablespoonofoilintothepan.Placeonaveryhighheat.Whenthepanbeginstosmoke,addtheminceandturntheheatdowntomedium-high.Mashthemincewithawoodenspoontobreakitup,andcookfor4minutes,oruntilcrisp.

Assemblebyplacingasnailonaplate,followedbyasmallheapoffreshbabyspinach.Drizzlewiththeyoghurtdressingandsprinklewiththecrispyspicedmince.Serveimmediately.

TipsWrapthesnailsreallycarefullyinclingfilmifyouaremakingtheminadvance,tostopthefilofromdryingout.

Ifyoucan’tfindsumac,replacewithsomefreshlyzestedlemonandapinchofpaprika.

Getahead

Youcanmakethesnailsafewhoursbeforeserving,thenjustreheatintheovenat150°C(fan)for20minutes.

Ihaveanenduringloveofporridgeanditdoesn’tstopatbreakfast.Igrewupwithsavouryporridgefordinner.Mymum,anever-so-thriftycook,madeanAsian-styleporridgeusingleftoverriceandroastchicken,spikedwithchilli,gingerandspringonions.Servingporridgefordinnermightnotbethemostobviouschoice,butpan-fryittocrispandgoldenperfectionandyou’llendupwiththemostamazingaccompanimenttoarichragù.

Fortheorangeduckragù

3ducklegsseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper

1tbspsunfloweroil4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced2tinnedanchovyfillets,drainedandchopped1onion,peeledandfinelychopped2carrots,peeledandroughlychopped1stickofcelery,roughlychopped150mlredwine1×400gtinofcherrytomatoes

1largesprigofrosemaryzestof1orange,removedinstripsusingavegetablepeelerForthecrispporridgewedges

200grolledporridgeoats250mlmilk350mlhotchickenstock

3tbspfinelychoppedchives60gParmesancheese,finelygrated

2tbspbutterEquipmenta20cm×20cmbakingtin,linedwithclingfilm

Seasontheducklegswithplentyofsaltandpepper.Puttheoilintoalargeliddedsaucepanonamediumheat.Whenhot,placetheducklegsinthepan,skinsidedown,andfryfor3minutes,oruntiltheskinbeginstogogoldenandcrisp.Turnoverandcookforafurther2minutes.Removefromthepanandplaceonaplate.

Lowertheheatandaddthegarlic,anchovies,onion,carrotsandcelery.Fryuncoveredforabout5minutes,oruntiltheanchovieshavedisintegrated,thenaddthewine.Simmerfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatoes,rosemaryandorangezest.Bringbacktoasimmer,addthebrownedducklegs,thencoverandcookonalowheatforabout1½hours,oruntilthemeatistenderandfallingoffthebone.Discardtheorangezestandrosemary.Transfertheducklegstoaboardand,usingtwoforks,shredtheduckmeat,discardingtheskinandbones.Stirtheduckmeatbackintothetomatosauceandtasteforseasoning.

Meanwhile,placetheoatsinamediumsaucepanwiththemilkandstock.Leavetosoakfor10minutes,thenplaceonamedium-lowheatandbringtoasimmerwhilestirringcontinouslywithawoodenspoonorspatula.Whentheporridgeisthickandunctuous,takeofftheheat.Stirinmostofthechives(savingtherestforthegarnish),theParmesanandsomesaltandpepper,andstirwelltocombine.Pourtheporridgeintoyourlinedtinandspreadevenlyacrossthebase.Refrigerateforaminimumof30minutes.

Put1tablespoonofbutterintoalargefryingpanonahighheat.Cuttheporridgeinto4slicesandplacetheminthehotpan.Fryeachsliceonbothsides,about6–7minutesintotal,untilgolden.

Placeaporridgesliceoneachservingplateandtopwiththeragùandasprinkleofchives.

I’mafirmbelieverinthemantra‘buttermakeseverythingbetter’,buttherearesomedayswhenIfancysomethingatouchlighter.TruetomyAsianroots,Iregularlyrustleupastir-fryfromafridgeraidofleftoverswhenIwantaquickbite;usingcauliflowerasaricesubstitutemakesthedishevenhealthier.

1smallheadofcauliflower(approx.300g),trimmedandseparatedintoflorets4springonions,whitesandgreenpartsseparatedandfinelychopped10babysweetcorn,cutintorounds1redpepper,deseededandcutintothinstrips2tbspsunfloweroil

4eggsapincheachofwhitepepperandseasalt1redchilli,deseededandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandfinelyminced1thumb-sizedpieceofginger,peeledandgrated30gcashewnuts,roughlychopped4tbsplightsoysauceortamari1lime,quartered,toserve

Placethecauliflowerinablenderorfoodprocessorandpulsetobreadcrumbconsistency.Putintoabowl,addthewhitepartsofthespringonions,thebabysweetcornandredpepper,andmix.

Placealarge(approx.26cm)non-stickfryingpanwith1tablespoonofoilonamediumheat.Cracktheeggsintoabowlandbeatwiththepepperandsalt.Pourtheeggsintothepanandswirlthepanaround,sothemixturecoversthewholebase.Cookforacoupleofminutes,oruntiltheeggsareset,thenflipoverandcookforafurther1–2minutes,oruntiljustset.Slidetheomeletteontoachoppingboard,leavetocoolslightly,thenrollupandcutinto1cm-widestrips.Setasideuntilneeded.

Puttheremainingtablespoonofoilintoawokorlargefryingpanonamedium

Puttheremainingtablespoonofoilintoawokorlargefryingpanonamediumheat.Whenitgetshot,addthechilli,garlic,gingerandcashewnuts.Cookfor30secondswhilecontinuouslytossinginthehotoil.Addthecauliflowerrice,sweetcornandpepper.Continuetossingfor3–4minutes,untilit’snicelygolden.Addtheslicedomeletteandstirtoheatthrough,thenpourthesoysauceintothepanandtosswellbeforedividingbetweenbowls.Serveeachwithawedgeoflimeandsprinklingofthegreentopsfromthespringonions.

TipsUseateaspoontoscrapetheskinofftheginger.

Usetamariinsteadofregularsoysaucetomakethisgluten-free.

Stir-fryingisanexcellentwayofusingupanythingleftoverinthefridge,fromroastmeattoveg.

Thatwholesomeimagethatlentilsconjureupalwaysleavesmewithasmugglowintheaftermathofeating–quiteunlikepastaorrice,whichcanleaveyoufeelingbloated.AfterlivinginFrance,there’sonlyonekindoflentilIliketoeat(callmealentilsnobifyoulike)andthat’sthePuy.Itkeepsitsshapeanddoesn’tendupmushy.Puylentilsareeasytotopwithanendlesscombinationofingredientsorcanbethrownintoasaladtogiveitsomebite.Don’tletyourlentilsgetpushedtothebackofthecupboard!

4smallbeetroots(350gintotal),peeledandcutinto2cmcubes250mlwater250mlredwinevinegar150gcastersugar4firmpears(IlikeConference),peeledbutwiththestalkon200gPuylentils100gGorgonzola,Dolcelatteorotherbluecheese50gwatercress

2tbspextravirginoliveoilseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper

Pourthewater,vinegarandsugarintoasmallsaucepan(thepearsshouldsitsnugly)andbringtoagentlesimmer.Stirtodissolvethesugar,thenaddthepearsandbeetroot.Takeapieceofbakingpaperlargerthanthediameterofthepan,crumpleitupandcutaholeorslitinthecentre.Placeincontactwiththeliquidandletsomeseepthroughtokeepthepaperinplace.Coverandsimmergentlyonalowheatforanhour.

gentlyonalowheatforanhour.

Removefromtheheatandplacethepears,beetrootandalltheliquidinaseparatecontainer.Leavetocooltoroomtemperature,thenputinthefridgeandleavetopickleovernight.

Whenreadytoeat,cookthelentilsfollowingthepacketinstructions,thendrain.Removethepearsfromthecontainertoachoppingboardandtransferthebeetroottoabowl(discardtheliquidorsaveitforpicklingsomethingelse).Tossthelentilswiththebeetroot,thencrumblethebluecheeseintosmallchunksandaddthistothebowl.

Dividethemixturebetween4plates.Cuteachpearinhalfandplace2halvesoneachplate,withalittlewatercressontop.Drizzlewiththeoilandsprinklewithapincheachofsaltandpepper.

TipsIt’simportantthatthepearsarelarge,firmandnotoverripe,otherwisetheywillbecomemushyanddisintegratewhencooked.

Youcanuseanyothersoftcheese,suchasgoat’scheeseorfeta,toreplacethebluecheese.

GetaheadThelongerthepearsandbeetrootsitinthepicklingjuices,thedarkerthecolourandthestrongertheflavour.

Iloveacolourfulplateoffood,especiallyonadrearywinter’sday.Luckily,eveninthewintermonthsyoucanaddsomecolourtoyourplatewithredchicoryandbloodoranges.Theyjusthappentobeinseasonatthesametime,andtherecouldn’tbeabettermatch.Bitterchicoryandsweet-and-sourbloodorangesarenotjusttheultimatecolourcombobutaperfectpalatepairingtoo.

4bloodoranges

2tbspextravirginoliveoil2headsofredchicory,endstrimmedandleavesseparatedseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper8scallopswithroes(removedfromthefridge15minutesbeforecooking)1tbspoliveoil

1tbspbutter20greenolives,pittedandfinelychopped

2tbspfinelychoppedchives

Topandtailtheorangeswithaparingknife,thenplaceuprightonthechoppingboardandsliceawaytheskinandpith,discardingthese.Cutbetweenthemembranestoremovetheindividualsegmentsoforange,thenplaceinabowl.Squeezethejuicefromtheremaining‘skeleton’ofthemembranesintoasaladbowl.

Addtheextravirginoliveoiltotheorangejuiceinthesaladbowlandwhisk.

Addthechicoryleaves,tosstodressandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Addthechicoryleaves,tosstodressandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Peelawaythetoughcrescent-shapedtendonfromtheoutsideofthescallops.Dabthescallopswithkitchentoweltoremoveanymoisture,andseasonwellwithsaltandpepperonbothsides.

Putalargenon-stickfryingpanoveramediumheatandpourintheoliveoil.Whenthepanishot,addthescallops.Searonthefirstsidefor1–2minutes(dependingontheirsize),withoutmoving,sothattheygetanicecrust.Thenadd1tbspofbuttertothepan,flipthescallopsoverandcookfor1furtherminute,tiltingthepanonitssideandspooningthebutterover.

Scattertheleavesonaservingplateorindividualplates,followedbytheorangesegmentsandthegreenolives.Placethescallopsontopandsprinklewiththechives.

TipThescallopscanbereplacedwith150gofsalty,creamygoat’scheese.

GetaheadYoucansegmenttheorangesandmakethedressingafewhoursinadvance.

ThereareafewthingsItrytogrowinmywindowboxes,andherbs,radishesandsaladareamust.OneyearIgrewcherrytomatoes,whichprovedsuchasuccessthatIcouldn’tpickthemquicklyenough.Myneighbourscomplainedthattomatoeswouldfallontheirheadswhentheywalkedintothemainentrancebelow.Ididn’tintendtobombmyneighbourswithtomatoes,sonowIkeepmyurbangardeningtoherbsandleafygreens,whichareeasytomaintain.Thisrecipereallyreliesonabountyofsummertomatoestobringitalive.Unliketheclassicspaghettibolognese,whichbenefitsfromaslow,gentlesimmer,thisisaquick,freshalternative.

500gmixedtomatoes(differentcoloursandsizes)1smallredonion,peeledandthinlysliced1tbspextravirginoliveoil

2tbsprapeseedoil1brownonion,peeledandfinelychopped4clovesofgarlic,peeledandcrushed200glamb’sliver,finelychopped8slicesofsmokedstreakybacon,finelychopped1tbspchoppedfreshthymeleaves,plusextratogarnish1tbspchoppedfreshoreganoleaves,plusextratogarnish400gspaghetti1tbsptomatopurée

3tbspredwinevinegarseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper

Cutthetomatoesintoquartersorhalves,dependingonthesize.Tosswiththeredonionandextravirginoliveoilandsetaside.

Puttherapeseedoil,brownonion,garlic,liverandbaconintoalargefryingpanonamediumheat.Addtheherbsandfryfor10minutes,oruntiltheonionandmeatbegintobrownnicely,stirringconstantly.

Inthemeantime,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertotheboilandcookthepastaaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Draininacolander,settingasidesomeofthepastawater.Stirinthetomatopuréeandredwinevinegar.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Tosstheliverandbaconwiththetomatoesandpastaandloosenwith1or2tablespoonsofthepastawater.Pourintoalargeservingdish,sprinkletheextraherbsontop,andserveimmediately.

TipTheliverandbaconcanbereplacedwithbeef,lamborporkmince.

GetaheadTheliverandonionmixturecanbemadeadayahead.Simplyreheatinapanwith1tablespoonofoil.

Ifthere’sonethingIkeepinmyfreezer,it’snotatuboficecream:it’sarollofallbutterpuffpastry.It’sgreattohaveasabackupforallsortsofthings,fromlittleaperitifsnacksintheformoftwistedcheesestrawstotheseimmenselyversatilepuffpastrypies.

2×320gpacksofready-rolledallbutterpuffpastry(removefromfridge15minutesbeforeusing)

1egg,beaten,foreggwash

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).Unrollthepastrycarefullyfromthepaper.Cutsix10cmsquareswithalongknifeorpizzacutter,thenusetheremainingpastrytocut48stripsofpastry2cmwideand10cmlong(youmayneedtore-rollthelastpiecesforthefinalstrips).Brushthesquareswiththeeggwash,thenstickapastrystriponeachedgeofthesquarestomakeaborder.Topeachoftheborderswithanotherlayerofpastrystrips,thenbrushagainwitheggwashandplacethesquaresonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper.Putintheovenandbakefor25–30minutes,oruntilgolden,crispandpuffy.

Youcaneithermakethepiecasesatthesametimeasthefillingsbelow,ormakethecasesupto3daysinadvanceandstoretheminanairtightcontaineruntilreadytouse.Reheatfor15minutesat160°C(fan).

TipThesepuffpastrypiescanbefilledwithanythingyoufancy,aslongasthefillingisn’ttoosoggy.

2×200gtinsofgood-qualitytuna,drained(300gdrainedweight),or2×70gfilletsofsmokedtrout,flaked100gtinnedsweetcorn,drained1tbspcapers,roughlychopped

4cornichons,roughlychopped6tbspmayonnaise(seehere)

Inasmallbowl,mixtogetherthetunaortrout,sweetcorn,capersandcornichons.Dividebetweenthepiecasesanddotthemayonnaiseonthetop.

3smallonions,peeledandquartered6free-rangeporksausages1tbspoliveoil6mediumapples

6tspEnglishmustard

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).Placetheonionsandsausagesinalargeroastingtrayanddrizzleovertheoil,tossingtocoat.Wrapeachoftheapplesinapieceofaluminiumfoilandplaceintheroastingtray.Roastfor30–40minutes,oruntilthesausagesaregoldenandcookedthroughandtheonionsaresoft.

Removethetrayfromtheoven.Wearingacleanpairofrubbergloves,carefullyremovetheapplesfromthealuminiumfoilandmashthefleshwithafork,discardingtheskinandcore.Spread1teaspoonofmustardinthebaseofeachpiecase,anddividethemashedapplebetweenthecases.Cuteachsausageinhalfandarrangeinthebases,alongwith2onionquartersperpie.Serveimmediately.

aknobofbutter1tbsplightbrownsugar9smallishplums

2tbsplemonjuice

Putamediumliddednon-stickfryingpanonamedium-lowheat.Putthebutterandsugarinthepanandletthemmeltfor2minutes.Cuttheplumsinhalf,gougethestoneoutifyoucan(ifyoucan’t,youcandothismoreeasilyoncetheyarecooked),andplacefleshsidedowninthepan.Cookfor5minutes,thenaddthelemonjuiceandspoonthesauceovertheplums.Placealidonthepanandcookforafurther10minutes,oruntiltheyaretenderbutholdingtheirshape.Place3halvesineachofthepiecasesandspoonoverthepanjuices.Servewithadollopofcrèmefraîche,whippedcreamoricecream.

NormallyI’mnotonetomakemyownpasta,despitehavingboughtapastamachinemanyyearsagoonmyfirsttriptoNaples(whichwassoheavyIendeduppayingextrabaggagefees).Gettingthemachineoutandhavingtodealwithallthecleaningafterwardshasalwaysputmeoff.However,asIdiscoveredwhenIwastestingthisrecipe,makingyourownpastadoesn’thavetobehardortime-consuming.Anddon’tbeputoffbytheideaofthewholemealflour.It’snottraditional,butitworksparticularlywellwiththerobustflavourofthespinach.

500gfrozenspinachsaltandfreshlygroundpepper2tbspcrèmefraîche

4eggs50ggratedParmesancheeseorotherflavoursomehardcheese,toserveForthepastadough

100gwholemealflour,plusextratodust½tspseasalt½tspfreshlygratednutmeg1egg

1tbspwater

Mixtogethertheflour,saltandthenutmeginalargebowl.Crackin1eggandaddthewater.Bringtogetherwithaspoon,thenturnoutontoaflouredworksurfaceandkneadintoasmoothball.Wrapinclingfilmandleavetochillinthefridgefor30minutes.

Placethefrozenspinachinamediumsaucepan.Coverandcookonamediumheatfor5minutes,thenuncover.Cookforanother10minutes,untilallthe

heatfor5minutes,thenuncover.Cookforanother10minutes,untilalltheexcessliquidhasevaporated,stirringoccasionally.Tasteandseasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper,thenstirinthecrèmefraîche.

Meanwhile,dustyourworksurfacewithflour,cutthedoughinto4partsandrolleachwitharollingpinintoaverythinpastarectangle(about20cm×14cmand1mmthick).

Bringamediumsaucepanofsaltedwatertoagentlesimmerandalargesaucepanofsaltedwatertotheboil.Crack1eggintoaramekinorglass(Ifindthismakesiteasiesttoguidethemintothewater),thenstirthewaterinthemediumpan,makingalittlewhirlpool,andpourtheeggintothecentre.Repeatwiththerestoftheeggsandleavetocookfor2–3minutes.Useaslottedspoontoremovetheeggsfromthewateranddrainonacleanteatowelorkitchentowel.Youcancutoffanystraybitsofwhiteifyouwanttotidythemup.

Plungethepastasheetsintothelargepanofboilingwaterfor2–3minutes,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddividebetween4shallowbowls.Addadollopofthespinach,followwithanegg,thenfoldthetopofthesheetbackovertoencasetheegg.SprinklewithplentyofParmesancheese.

Shanksseemtobethechoicecutoflambingastropubsandrestaurants.Moreaffordablethanshoulder,perfectforslowcooking,theyrequireminimumeffortformaximumflavour.Lambcanbeabitofaflavourbully,dominatingadish,soyouneedsomedistinctflavourstostanduptoit.Thecherriesandredwineinthisdishformfruitynotesthatreallymellowoutthelamb.There’snotmuchtomakingit:browningthemeat,poppingtheingredientsinandlettingthemagichappeninthepot.

3tbspplainflour1tspeachseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper4lambshanks,350–400geach1–2tbspoliveoil400mlredwinesuchasPinotNoirorBeaujolais600mlchickenstock2×440gtinsofstonelesscherries,drained300gbasmatirice50gbutter1onion,peeledandfinelychopped50gpistachios,roughlychopped2sticksofcelery,finelychopped1largecarrot(200g),peeledandfinelychopped2tspcornflour

2tbspwaterahandfuloffinelychoppedfreshparsleyzestof1unwaxedlemon

Preheattheovento160°C(fan).Mixtheflour,saltandpepperinalargebowlandaddthelambshanks,dustingeachonewellintheflour.Pourtheoilintoalargeliddedovenproofcasserolepanoveramediumheatandbrowntheshanksinbatches.Pourinthewine,stock,andoneofthetinsofcherries.Bringeverythinguptotheboil,coverandputintheovenfor2hours,oruntilthemeatfeelsverytenderwhenpokedwithaknife.Removethelidandcookforafurther30minutes.

30minutes.

Twenty-fiveminutesbeforethelambisready,starttomakethepilaf.Rinsethericeinwater,drain,thenrepeat3times.Cookthericeinalargepanofboilingsaltedwaterfor5minutesanddrainwell.

Meanwhile,putthebutterintoalargeliddednon-stickfryingpanonamedium–lowheat.Addtheonion,pistachios,celeryandcarrotandfrygentlyfor10–15minutes,oruntiltheysoften,thenstirinthepar-cookedriceandseasonwithsalt.Wrapthelidofthepaninacleanteatowelandplaceontop(theteatowelwillabsorbmoisturesothericestayscrispy).Cookfor25minutesonaverylowheat–youwantthericetocrispuponthebaseofthepan.

Putthecornflourandwaterintoasmallbowlandmixtoasmoothpaste.Removethelambshankstoaplateandwrapinfoiltokeepwarm.Pourthesaucethroughasieveintoajugtoremovethecherries(reservingthemforlater).Pourthesauceintoalargepan,thenskimoffthefatwithalargespoonandwhiskinthedilutedcornflour.Bringtoasimmerandcontinuewhiskingfor10–15minutes,oruntilthesaucecoatsthebackofthespoonandbecomesglossy.Seasonwithplentyofpepper,andsaltifneeded.Putthecherriesbackintothesauce,alongwiththesecondtinofcherries,andwarmthrough.

Toserve,fluffupthepilafwithaforkandtossintheparsleyandlemonzest.Dividebetweenplates,placeashankoneachplateandpouroversomecherrysauceandcherries.

I’vealwayshadakeeninterestingettingtotherootsofanidea.Todiscoverthattheword‘dessert’originatesfromtheFrenchwasnosurprise,butitsetymologywasnotwhatIexpected.Itslinguisticrootscomefromthemid-sixteenth-centuryworddesservir,whichmeans‘toclearawayatable’.Backinmedievaltimes,bothsavouryandsweetdisheswouldsharethetablesimultaneously,andtheservingofadessertattheendofthemealwasnotderigueuruntilacoupleofcenturieslater.However,Ican’tthinkofabetterwayoffinishingamealthanonasweetnote,leavingyourguestsonasugarhigh.

Dessertsareinmyblood.Frommyfondchildhoodmemoriesoflickingcakebatteroffspoons,makinggingerbreadwithmymum,orsittingatmyAustriangrandma’stableandwatchingherstretchoutstrudeldough,tomyperfectingabutterypainauchocolatinParis,IfeelathomewhenI’mwhisking,folding,whippingorpiping.There’ssomethingverysoothingandsatisfyingaboutdelicatelysmoothingicingontoacakewithstrokesofyourspatula,orplacingthatlastcherryontoadesserttocompleteadish.TheskillandcraftsmanshiparewhatinitiallydrewmetostudypatisserieinParis;unlikeothersortsofcooking,thereisacertainscientificprecisiontodesserts.Toomuchbutterandthebatterspreads;toohotandthecakecracks–butdon’tletthatputyouoff.It’sveryreassuringtoknowthatifyouweighyouringredientsandfollowthemethodintherecipe,allwillgowell.Andthenthere’sthegreatpleasureinbringingthedesserttolifewiththedecoration–likethemarblingonmypistachio,yoghurtandpomegranatecake,ortheJacksonPollack-esquechocolate‘dribble’onmychocolateandcourgettefondantfancies.

Butit’snotjustabouttheeyecandy,ithastotastegoodtoo!Whetherit’scombiningclassicflavourslikecherryandchocolateintheBlackForestgâteaubowls;orunusualoneslikethoseinmyminiorangetrifleswithcandiedcarrotsordifferenttextures,suchasthecrunchandcreamyelementsintheedibleforestfloor,therecipesinthischapterwillsurprise,exciteandtickleyourtastebuds.

Thesedelightfultartletsareeasytomake,andlookimpressivewithalittlebouquetoffreshberriesperchedontop.

2–3tbspcastersugar

175gpuffpastry150–200gfreshberries(strawberries,raspberries,blueberries),washedoptional:icingsugarForthecreamcheesefrosting90gsoftunsaltedbutter

125gicingsugar90gfull-fatcreamcheese(removedfromthefridge30minutesbeforeusing)Equipment

anon-stick6-holemuffintin

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).

Dusttheworksurfacewithhalfthecastersugarandrolloutthepastryinalandscaperectangle,roughly15cm×20cm.Dustwiththeremainingsugarandrolltherollingpinoverittopressthesugarin.Tightlyrollitup,startingfromthehorizontalsideclosesttoyou.Cuttherollinto6equal-sizedpieces,roughly3cmwide.Takeonepieceandplaceitspiralsideupinthemuffintin.Useyourthumbtopushthedoughoutwards,evenlyliningthebaseandsidesofthetin.Repeatwiththerestofthespirals.

Prickthebaseofeachonewithafork,thenlinewithsmallroundsofbakingpaperandaddceramicbakingbeanstoeach.Bakefor20minutes,thenremove

paperandaddceramicbakingbeanstoeach.Bakefor20minutes,thenremovethebeansandbakingpaperandreturntotheovenforafurther10–15minutes,oruntillightlygoldenandcookedthrough(checkbyliftingoneoutofthetin).Removefromthetinimmediately(otherwisetheywillcaramelizeandstick),andleavetocoolonawirerackbeforedecorating.

Usinganelectrichandwhisk,beattogetherthebutterandicingsugarfor2minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Beatinthecreamcheeseuntilwellblended.

Toassemble,dollopthefrostingontoeachofthetartletbases.Decoratethetopswithberries,anddustwithicingsugarifyoulike.

GetaheadOncecooled,thebakedtartletbasescanbekeptinanairtightcontainerfor5days.Theyalsofreezewell.

TheSwedishforestinspiresthisdessert.I’vespentmanysummersinSwedenpickingberries.Plateddessertsareacommonsightonrestaurantmenusandcanlookintimidatingtothehomecook,butit’ssimplyacaseofbringingtogetherdifferenttastes,texturesandsometimestemperaturestoworkinharmony.Hereyougetcrunchfromthemeringue,richnessfromtheganache,creaminessfromtheyoghurtandtartnessfromtheberries.It’sthecombinationoftheseelementsthatmakesthedessertwork.

100gBourbonorotherchocolatebiscuits100gblueberriesorberriesofyourchoicefreshmintleavesForthemeringuemushrooms35geggwhite(from1mediumegg)apinchofseasalt50gcastersugar

1tbspcocoapowderForthedarkchocolateganache100gdarkchocolate(70%),brokenintopieces100mldoublecreamapinchofseasalt

Forthemilkchocolateyoghurt160gmilkchocolate,brokenintopieces200gnaturalfull-fatyoghurtEquipmentpipingbagswith1cmand3–4mmnozzlesachopstick

Preheattheovento100°C(fan).Tomakethemeringuemushrooms,puttheeggwhiteandsaltintoalargeglassbowlandwhiskwithanelectrichandwhiskoruseastandingmixer.Whenreallyfrothy,graduallyaddthesugar,whiskinguntilthemeringueisthickandglossyandformsstiff,shinypeaks.

Lineanoventraywithbakingpaper.Spoonthemeringueintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cmnozzle,andsqueezeoutinto12roundmounds,2–3cmwide,tomakethemushroomcaps.Tomakeeachstem,separatelysqueezeoutabitof

themushroomcaps.Tomakeeachstem,separatelysqueezeoutabitofmeringueontothetray,thenpullthebagstraightupsoeachonestands3–4cmhigh.Dipyourfingerinwaterandsmooththetopofthemushroomcapssothatthey’rerounded.Bakeinthecentreoftheovenfor1½hours,thenturntheovenoff.Don’tpeek.Leavethemfor2hoursorovernightuntilcompletelycoolanddriedout.

Tomakethedarkchocolateganache,placethechocolateinaheatproofbowl.Putthecreamandsaltintoasmallsaucepanandbringtoasimmer,thenpouroverthechocolate.Leavetositfor2minutes,thenstiruntilthoroughlyincorporated.Leavetocoolforabout30minutes,oruntilroomtemperature,thenspoonintoapipingbagwitha3–4mmnozzle.

Toassemblethemushrooms,useachopsticktomakeasmallholeintheundersideofeachmushroomcap.Pipeasmallamountofchocolateganacheintoeachhole,thenstickthestemsin.Dustwithatinyamountofcocoapowder.

Forthemilkchocolateyoghurt,placethechocolateandyoghurtinaheatproofbowloverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Stiruntilthechocolatehasdissolved,usingawhisktomixwell.

Toassemble,spreadalayerofchocolateyoghurtontoeachdessertplate.CrumbleovertheBourbonbiscuits,andpipedotsofthedarkchocolateganacheonrandomly.Stickafewmushroomsontop,thendotovertheberriesandmintleaves.

TipDon’trefrigeratetheganacheorthechocolateyoghurtastheywillbecometoohardtouse.

GetaheadThemeringuemushroomswithoutganachewillkeepforaboutaweekinanairtightcontainer.

Turkishpastries,suchastheintenselysweetandextremelystickybaklava,werenothingnewtome;however,thepomegranatejuicestandsthatcroppeduponIstanbul'sstreetcornerswereadelightfuldiscovery.Thedarkredjuicemakesforarefreshingdrink,andalthoughit’sanightmareifyougetitonyourclothes,it’sperfectforcolouringicingthenaturalway.

Forthesponge2×150gpotsofnaturalyoghurt100gpistachiokernels1×150gyoghurtpotofcastersugar1×150gyoghurtpotofsunfloweroil2eggs,lightlybeaten

1tspvanillaextract2×150gyoghurtpotsofplainflour

2tspbakingpowder½tspseasalt

Fortheyoghurticing½apomegranate250gicingsugar50gnaturalyoghurt

Equipmenta20cmspringformtin,butteredandfloured

Preheattheovento160°C(fan).

Emptythecontentsoftheyoghurtpotsintoabowl,thenwashanddrythemreadytomeasuretheremainingingredients.You’llneedoneforwetingredientsandonefordryingredients.Whizzthepistachiostoafinepowderinablender.

Putthecastersugarandoilinalargebowlorstandingmixerbowl,thenmixtogetherwithanelectrichandwhiskorthewhiskattachmentfor2minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Graduallyaddtheeggsandvanillaextract.Foldintheyoghurt,thenaddtheflour,bakingpowder,saltandgroundpistachiosandgentlyfoldthemin.

Spoonthebatterintothetin.Bakefor50minutesoruntilaskewercomesoutclean.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforeturningoutontoawireracktocool.

Whenthecakeiscool,placethepomegranateskinsideupinyourhandwithyourfingersspreadout.Holdthepomegranatejustinsideabigbowlbeforehittingthebackofthefruitwithawoodenspoon.Theseedswillfallthroughthegapsbetweenyourfingers.

Sifttheicingsugarintoabowl,thenaddtheyoghurtandmixwelltogetathickpouringconsistency.Pourontopofthecooledcake,gentlyguidingitdownthesides.Oncetheicinghasstoppeddripping,takethepomegranatejuiceanddotseveraldropsalongthetopofthecake.Dragaskewerortoothpickinafigure-of-eightpatternthroughthedripsofpomegranate,swirlingitallaroundthecake.

Stickthepomegranateseedstothesideofthecakewhentheicinghasstoppeddripping.Ifit’sdifficulttomakethemstick,chillthecakefor10minutesinthefridgefirst.

There’snothingmorehomelythanthesmellofcinnamonandbakingapples.Thiswouldbetheperfectcaketobakeifyouweretryingtosellyourhome.

IhadanamazingsliceofapplecakewhenIwasinAmsterdam,wheretheypridethemselvesonit:butterycaramelpastrywithamixofbothsofttenderapplepiecesandoneswithbite(acombinationofapplesareamust).I’veaddedroastedgroundhazelnutstomybatter,whichgivesthefinishedproductadeliciouslynutty,almostfrangipaneflavour.ThepastryissimilartooneusedintheAustriancakemymumandauntsmake,Linzertorte(hazelnutpastrywithraspberryjam)–oneofmyfavourites.

200gblanchedhazelnutsoralmonds360gsoftunsaltedbutter225gsoftlightbrownsugaragoodpinchofseasalt3mediumeggs,lightlybeaten400gplainflour

4tspbakingpowderoptional:1tbspicingsugar,toserveForthefilling

30gsoftlightbrownsugar(plusextraforthetopping)

1tbspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundginger¼tspgratednutmeg

2tbspcornflour3firmapples(suchasBraeburn,RoyalGala,Cox)

5mediumBramleycookingapplesEquipmenta30cmsquarecaketin,butteredapipingorfoodbag

a30cmsquarecaketin,butteredapipingorfoodbag

Preheattheovento160°C(fan).

Putthenutsintoadrypanonamediumheat.Toastforabout5minutes,oruntilthenutsaregolden,stirringfrequently.Removefromthepanandletthenutscoolcompletely,thenblendtheminafoodprocessortoafinepowder.

Creamtogetherthebutter,softlightbrownsugarandsaltinalargebowl.Mixintheeggsgradually.Inaseparatebowlmixtogethertheflour,bakingpowderandgroundnuts,thenfoldgentlyintothebuttermix.

Spreadtwo-thirdsofthebatteracrossthebaseofthecaketin.Keepthebaseeven,butscrapeitupalittleatthesidestocreateanedgetoholdthefilling.

Tomakethefilling,mixthesoftlightbrownsugar,spicesandcornflourinalargebowl.Peel,coreandcuttheapplesinto2cmcubes,thentosswellinthespicemix.Scatterthefillingoverthecakebatterandleveloutevenly.

Placetheremainingcakebatterinapipingbagorfoodbagwiththeendsnippedoff,andpipe4linesofbatteronewayoverthetopofthecake,then4linestheotherway,tomakealatticepattern.Bakefor50–60minutes,oruntilthecrustisgoldenbrown.

Leavetocoolfor10minutes,thenremovefromthetinanddustwithicingsugar(ifusing).Servingwarmwithadollopofwhippedcreamorascoopofvanillaicecream.

TipIfyoucan’tfindblanchedhazelnuts,roastunblanchedonesfor8–10minutesat120°C(fan)andrubtheskinsoffwithacleanteatowel.

Ilovethewibble-wobbleofjellyonaplate.ThetextureisimmenselysatisfyingwhenpairedwithlashingsofChantillycream,provingthatjellyisn’tjustfunforkids.

Fortheplumjelly2kgpurpleorredplums750mlwater650gcastersugar

12gelatinleavesForthecrystallizedbasilleaves

1eggwhite4–6tbspcastersugarahandfulofbasilleavesFortheChantillycream

525mlwhippingcream75gcastersugar

3tbspelderflowercordialEquipmenta1.5litrejellymould,lightlyoiled

Halvetheplums,leavingthestonesin,andplaceinalargesaucepanwiththewaterandsugaroveramediumheat.Bringtoasimmer,stirringfrequentlytohelpdissolvethesugar,thenlowertheheat.Simmertheplumsuncoveredfor15–20minutes,oruntilmushy.

Halffillalargewidecontainerwithcoldwater,thenaddthegelatinleavesoneatatime,sotheydon’tsticktogether.Leavetosoakfor10minutes.

Draintheplumsinacolandersetoveralargejugorbowl,reservingthesyrup.Thenpasstheplumsthroughafinesieveintothejugorbowl,pressingoutasmuchoftheplumjuiceasyoucan.Discardthestones,butkeepthestewedfruitforanotherday(seetips).

Squeezethewaterfromthesoakedgelatinleavesandaddtotheplumsyrup.Stiruntildissolved,thenpourintoyourjellymould.Dabwithkitchentowelifthereisanyscumatthetop.Leavetocoolcompletely,thencoverandputinthefridgeforatleast12hoursorovernight.

Whenthejellyhasset,crystallizethebasilleaves.Placetheeggwhiteinabowlandwhisklightlytoloosen.Placethesugaronaplate,andhaveacleanplatetohand.Dipacleanpaintbrushorpastrybrushintotheeggwhiteanddelicatelycoatabasilleaf.Sprinkletheleafwithsugar,thenplaceonthecleanplate.Repeatwiththeremainingleavesandsetasideinacool,darkplace.

Beforeserving,whipthecreamwiththesugaruntilitformssoftpeaks,thenfoldintheelderflowercordial.Removethejellyfromitsmouldandplaceonacakestand.DolloptheChantillycreamaroundtheedgeofthejellyandarrangethebasilleavesontop.

TipsTheleftoverstewedfruitgoeswellwithyoghurtandgranola.

Toremovethejellyfromthemould,dipthemouldquicklyinhotwater.

Usethebasilleaveswithin1–2hoursofservingastheytendtolosetheirvibrantcolour.

ThisrecipeisatwistononeofmyfavouriteMalaysiandesserts,cendol.Cendolisabrightgreensweetnoodle,usuallymadewithmung-beanflourandpandanleaf.Theflavourandcolourcomesfromthepandanleaf,whichhasanaromaticsweetalmondandvanillaperfume.Thenoodlesarethenmixedwithshavediceandredbeansanddousedwithcoconutmilk.

I’veswitchedsomeoftheingredients(pandanleafandmung-beanflour)foronesthatareeasytobuyinthesupermarket(riceflour,cornflourandtropicaljuice).Therearenoredbeansinsight,butinsteadacolourfulassortmentoftropicalfruits.Noneedforanicemachinetoshaveiceeither;aquick-to-makecoconutgranitareplacesthat.

6ripepassionfruits½asmallmango½agaliaorcantaloupemelonjuiceandzestof1limeForthecoconutgranita100gcastersugar100mlwater1×400mltinofcoconutmilkForthetropicalcendol

25griceflour25gcornflour250mltropicalorexoticfruitjuiceEquipment

amedium-sizedpipingorfoodbag

4sundaeglasses

Tomakethecoconutgranita,dissolvethesugarinthewaterinamediumsaucepanoveralowheat,swirlingthepangently,thenbringtoasimmerfor1minute.Takeofftheheatandstirinthecoconutmilk.Pourthemixintoaplastic

minute.Takeofftheheatandstirinthecoconutmilk.Pourthemixintoaplasticliddedcontainer.Placeinthefreezerandleavefor6hours,forkingeveryhourorsoafterthefirst2hours(makesureyouforkthesidestoo,otherwiseitwillfreezesolid).Oncethemixtureisfirm,coverorwraptightlyinclingfilm.

Tomakethetropicalcendol,placethefloursinasmallsaucepan.Whiskthefruitjuiceintotheflours,thencookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutes,oruntilthemixturebecomesverythickandglossy,whiskingcontinuously.Takeofftheheatandleavefor2minutes.

Preparealargebowlfulloficedwater.Transferthecendoltoamedium-sizedpipingorfoodbagandsnipoffasmallcorner.Wearingwashing-upgloves(asthemixtureinthebagisstillveryhot),pipethecendolinlongpiecesstraightintotheicedwater.Setasidefor15minutes.

Meanwhile,preparethefruit.Removethepulpfromthepassionfruitsandputintoalargebowl.Stonethemangoanddeseedthemelon,thenchopthefleshintobite-sizepieces.Tossthefruitwiththelimejuiceandzest(savingalittlezestforthegarnish).

Whenreadytoserve,take4sundaeglasses,forkupthegranitaandplacesomeatthebottomofeachglass.Drainthewaterfromthecendolandaddsometoeachglass,thenaddaspoonfuloffruit.Addanotherlayerofgranita,cendolandfruit,thensprinklewithalittlelimezest.Serveimmediately.

TipThegranitacanbemadeupto2–3weeksinadvance.Justremovefromthefreezerforabout15minutestosofteniffrozensolid.

Last,butcertainlynotleast,Ileaveyouwithmyfinalchapter.FromcookiesandSwedish-stylebuns,totrufflesandsweetchillisauce:eventhemostunstoppableofcooks(myselfincluded)havebeentemptedtobuysomeoftheseratherthanmakethemathome.Buthomemadeisalwayssomuchbetterthenshop-bought,andwhiletheymightbemoretime-consumingtomake,you’lldefinitelyreaptherewardslater.

FrommytimeinFranceandbeyond,theaperitifculturewillalwaysstickwithme,andinthischapteryou’lldiscoversomeimpressiverecipesforservinginthatoft-neglectedtimebeforeameal.There’smyhome-curedduckbreast,fromwhichyoucansimplysliceoffsomesliversforanimpromptuaperitif.Ormyhomemadegrissini,sounbelievablysimple,you’llwonderwhyyouneverbotheredmakingyourownbefore.

Ediblegiftscomeinmanyguises,andmychocolatebarkmakesforareallyspeedylunchboxtreatforkidsorevenever-so-luckyotherhalves.Thentherearethecook’scheatstomakeeverydaylifealittlebitmoregourmet;takemystockcubes,ormyhomemadecottagecheeseandputyourownstamponthemwhenyouusethem.

ThischapterisfilledwithaselectionofmyrecipesIhavecollectedalongtheway,manyofwhichhavebecomemymosttrustedandused.Ihopetheybecomeyourstoo.

Makingyourownchocolatebarkcouldn’tbesimpler.Greatforasnack,after-dinnerchocolatesortheperfectediblegift.

200gdarkchocolate(70%),brokenintopieces15gmixedseeds(e.g.sunflower,pumpkinandsesame)15gpistachiokernels

20gdriedcranberries

Putthechocolateintoaheatproofbowlandplaceoverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted.Lineatraywithbakingpaperandpourthechocolateontoit,thenspreadwithaspatulaorpaletteknifeintoarectangleabout18cm×22cmandaround0.5cmthick.

Immediatelysprinkletheseeds,pistachiosandcranberriesevenlyoverthetop.Transfertothefridgetosetforatleast1hour.Onceset,breakthebarkupintojaggedpieces.

TipThetoppingsyoucanuseforthisareendless.IusuallyseewhatIhaveleftoverinmycupboard–fromdriedapricots,figsorfreeze-driedfruit(greatforcolour),tohazelnuts,pecansandsugarsprinkles.

GetaheadChocolatebarkkeepsinthefridgeforupto2weeks.

Ilovefreshfigs:they’relikesweetsforme.WhenIlivedinParisIwouldgotomylocalmarketandpickupabag,andbythetimeIgothometheywouldbegone.It’sdifficulttofindperfectlyripefigswhenthey’renotinseason,sofortherestoftheyearIhavetogetmyfigfixwiththedriedversion.Driedfigsaremoreintenseandsweeterthanthefreshones,andpairbeautifullywithbitterdarkchocolate.

85gdriedfigs85gMedjooldates,stonesremoved40gpistachiokernels

20gsoftunsaltedbutter½tspseasalt100gdarkchocolate(70%)

70gblanchedalmonds,toastedandfinelychopped

Removeanddiscardthetoughstalksfromthetopsofthefigs.Chopthefigs,thenplaceinafoodprocessorwiththedates,pistachiokernels,butterandsalt.Whizzuntiltheyformapaste.Tipthepasteoutoftheprocessorandrollinto12smalltruffle-sizedballs,thenplaceonatray.

Putthechocolateintoaheatproofbowloverapanofjust-simmeringwater(don’tletthebowltouchthewater).Leavetomelt.Placethechoppedalmondsonaplate.

Dipthetruffleballsintothemeltedchocolateoneatatime,usingacoupleofforkstocoatwell.Immediatelytransfertothechoppedalmondsandrolltocoat.Placeonaplateorasmallbakingtraylinedwithclingfilm,thencoatthe

remainingtruffles.Putintothefridgetosetfor1hour.

TipExperimentwithotherdriedfruitornutstofillorcoatyourtruffles.

GetaheadThesekeepwellinthefridgeforaweekorsoinanairtightcontainer.Youcanalsofreezethembeforecoatingthemwithchocolate.Theyaregooduncoatedtoo.

IcedgemswouldalwaysappearinabowlonthepartybuffettablewhenIwasakid.Thoselittleroundbiscuitstoppedwithcandy-colouredicingwereveryhardtoresist.Sometimesmemoriesarebestleftinthepast,however,aswhenItastedthemrecentlyIrealizedhoweasilysatisfiedIwaswithfoodasachild.Iwasnofoodconnoisseurbackthen!Despitethefactshop-boughtonescanbealittledisappointing,homemadesavouryonesaretheperfectwaytokickoffaparty.Thesebite-sizebutterycrackerstoppedwithcolourful(allnatural!)toppingsareatreatforbotholdandyoung.

Forthecrackerbases80gplainflour75gwholemealplainflour½tspseasalt1tbspcastersugar

1tsppaprika80gcoldbutter,cubed

2tspvodkaForthedevilledegg

3largeeggs2tbspmayonnaise(seehere)

1tspEnglishmustardseasaltandfreshlygroundpepperFortheavocadocream

1ripeavocado1tsplimejuiceorlemonjuiceapinchofsaltFortheharissacreamcheese

1tspharissapaste100gcreamcheeseormascarponecheeseEquipment

3cmcutter3pipingbagswitha4–5mmstarnozzle

Preheattheovento170°C(fan).Tomakethecrackerbases,mixtogethertheflours,salt,sugarandpaprikainalargebowl,thenrubthebutterinwithyourfingersuntilyouhaveasandytexture.Addthevodkaandbringthemixtogetherintoaball.Rolloutwitharollingpinto5mmthicknessbetweentwosheetsofbakingpaper.

Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.Withthecutter,stampout50cookies,re-rollingthedoughasnecessary.Putonthetrayandbakefor10–12minutes,oruntilthebasesaregolden.Takeoutoftheovenandtransfertoawireracktocool.

Meanwhile,makethesavourycreams.Forthedevilledeggcream,placetheeggsinapanofboilingwaterandboilfor10minutes.Removewithaslottedspoonandrunundercoldwatertocool.Peeltheeggsandremovetheyolkfromthewhite(discardingthewhite).Mixtheyolkswiththemayonnaise,mustardandsaltandpeppertotaste.Blendtoapurée(asmallfoodprocessorisidealforthis)andsetaside.

Scoopthefleshoutoftheavocadointoasmallbowl,addthelimeorlemonjuiceandsalt,thenmixandblendtoapurée.Inaseparatebowl,mixtheharissaintothecheeseandblendthistoapuréetoo.

Placethedevilledeggpuréeintoapipingbagwiththestarnozzleandpipelittleblobsontoathirdofthecooledcrackers.Cleanthenozzle,thenrepeatwiththeotherpuréesandcrackers.

TipsIfthepastrybecomestoosoftwhenhandling,placeinthefreezerfor5minutesandrunyourhandsundercoldwater.

Addingvodkatothepastrywillmakeforaflakierpastrythanusingice-coldwater.Thealcoholevaporateswhenbaked.

Thisistheperfectloafforthosewithlimitedpatiencewholovefreshbread.Unlikeatraditionalloafthisbreadreliesonbicarbonateofsodaratherthanyeast,andaslittlemixingaspossibletomakeasoftandtendercrumb.Withaslightlysweetandbitternotefromthetreacle,itgoesdownatreatwhenwarmandbuttered.Homemadebuttermightseemliketakingittoofarbutthere’snothingtoitapartfromover-whippingthecream(plustheexcessbuttermilkcomesinhandyforthebread).

Forthewhippedbutter500mldoublecream2pinchesofseasalt

3tbspfinelychoppedchivesForthequickbread125gplainflour125gryeorwholemealflour1tspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspbrownsugar

1tspgroundseasaltflakes40–70mlplainyoghurt75gtreacle

1tbsprolledoatsEquipmenta450gloaftin,greasedandfloured

Preheattheovento180°C(fan).

Whiskthedoublecreamonahighspeedinafreestandingmixerwithwhiskattachment,untilitseparatestobuttersolidsandbuttermilk–thistakesabout5minutes.Drainoffthebuttermilkandsetaside.Continuetowhiptheremaining

minutes.Drainoffthebuttermilkandsetaside.Continuetowhiptheremainingbutteruntilsoftandfluffy,addingthesaltandchoppedchives.

Mixtogethertheflours,bicarbonateofsoda,brownsugarandsaltflakesinalargebowl.Makeawellinthecentre.Measureoutthebuttermilkandaddenoughyoghurttobringtheweightupto200g.Pourthebuttermilkandyoghurtintothecentreofthedryingredients,mixtogetherandaddthetreacle.Mixtogetheruntileverythingisincorporated.Trynottooverworkit.Putthemixtureintothetinandspreaditoutsothatitislevel.Sprinklewithoats.

Bakefor30minutes,oruntiltheskewercomesoutcleanfromthecentre.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforetakingoutofthetin.Coverwithadampteatowelwhilecooling.Servewiththebutterontheside.

TipsBesteatenwhilewarmorthefollowingdaytoasted.

Ifyouwanttoavoidmakingthebutter,replacethebuttermilkandyoghurtinthebreadrecipewithacombinationof100mlwholemilkand100gplainyoghurt.

Iwokeuponemorningwithanoverwhelmingcravingforadeepdarkchocolatecookiestuddedwithcherries.Mostimportantly,ithadtohavetherighttexture:crispontheedgesandchewyinthemiddle.Afewfactorsareinvolvedinmakingtheperfectchewycookie:bakingfortherightamountoftimeattherighttemperature;andusingdarkbrownsugar,whichmakesforamoistercookie.

100gsaltedbutter80gdarkbrownsoftsugar80glightbrownsoftsugar½tspseasalt100gplainflour2½tbspcocoapowder(20g)½tspbakingpowder

1egg½tspbitteralmondessence100gdarkchocolate(70%),roughlychoppedintosmallpieces100gtinnedblackstonelesscherries(drainedweight),choppedinhalf

Meltthebutter,sugarsandsaltinamediumsaucepan,thenleavetocoolslightly.

Sifttheplainflour,cocoapowderandbakingpowderintoabowlandmixtogether.Makeawellinthecentre,addtheeggandalmondessenceandbegintomix.Pourintheslightlycooledbutterandsugar.Mixtogetheruntiltherearenolumps.

Layoutalargepieceofclingfilmonasmallbakingtrayonyourworksurface.Pourthecookiemixontothefilmandspreadintoaneatsquare,about2cmthick.Usetheexcessclingfilmtocoverthebatterandplaceinthefreezeronthe

thick.Usetheexcessclingfilmtocoverthebatterandplaceinthefreezeronthetrayfor30–45minutes(orinthefridgefor1–2hours),untilfirmenoughtocutinto16squares.

Preheattheovento170°C(fan).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperandplacethecookiesquaresonthem,leavinga3–4cmgapbetweeneachcookie(theywillspreadoutafairbitastheycook).Pressthechocolateandcherrieslightlyintothecookies.Bakefor12–14minutes,oruntilslightlycrispontheoutsidebutstillsoftinthemiddle(theywillhardenwhentheycool).Leaveonthebakingtrayfor10minuteswhenyouremovethemfromtheoven,thenuseafishsliceorspatulatotransfertoawireracktocool.

TipForaplaincookie,replacethecocoapowderwithplainflour.Thecherriesandchocolatecanbereplacedwithotherflavourings,suchaswhitechocolateanddriedcranberries,ordarkchocolateandwalnuts.

GetaheadThecookiesfreezewell,eithercookedorasadough.Addanextra5minutestothecookingtimeifbakingfromfrozen.Thesearebesteatenonthedayyoubakethem.

WhenIwasinBarcelonaIvisitedaclassicchurrería,whichfeltlikethelocalspottogather,abitlikethelocalcaféwhereyouwouldgrababuilder’scupofteaandcatchupwiththelatestgossip.Itwascheapandcheerful,andtheymadesinfullygoodchurros,servedwithrichhotchocolatesothickthatyoucouldstandthemupinit.Althoughtheyaretraditionallyabreakfastfood,ifyouswitchaningredientortwotheymakeagreatsavourydish.

Forthepotatochurros75gbutter100gpotatoflour100gplainflour

1tspcastersugar½tspseasalt¼tspbakingpowder

2eggs1litresunflowerorvegetableoil,fordeep-frying½tspsweetsmokedpaprikaFortheredpeppersauce

4redpeppers1cloveofgarlic,peeled1tbspextravirginoliveoil

6cherrytomatoesseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperEquipment

apipingbagwitha1cmstar-shapednozzle

Meltthebutterinamediumsaucepan,andwhenitstartstobubblegentlybeatinbothoftheflours,alongwiththesugar,saltandbakingpowder.Mixwitha

bothoftheflours,alongwiththesugar,saltandbakingpowder.Mixwithawoodenspoonuntilitcomestogether,thencrackintheeggsonebyone,andmixagain.Placethechurrosbatterinapipingbagfittedwithastar-shapednozzle,andleavetochillinthefridgewhileyoumakethepeppersauce.

Preheatthegrilltohigh.Cutthepeppersinhalfandremovetheseeds.Placeskinsideuponanoiledbakingtrayandgrillfor15–20minutes,oruntilblackenedandtender.Placeinaplasticbagandleavetosteamforabout20minutes.

Whencoolenoughtohandle,removeanddiscardtheskinsandplacethefleshinablenderwiththegarlic,oliveoilandtomatoes.Blitzuntilverysmooth.Tasteforseasoning.

Heatthesunfloweroilinalargeheavy-basedpanonahighheat–youwantittoreach170°C.Testthetemperatureoftheoilwithatinyamountofthebatter.Ifitfizzeswhenithitstheoil,youarereadytostartfrying.

Pipethebatteroutdirectlyintothehotoil.Useapairofscissorstosnipeachchurroatthepipingnozzlewhenit’sabout10cmlong.Frythechurrosintwobatchesfor5–6minutes,oruntillightlypalegolden.Theywillneedtobeturnedcarefullyafewtimeswithalong-handledslottedspoon.

Drainonpapertowel.Sprinklewithalittlesmokedpaprikawhilestillhot,andservewiththeredpeppersauceontheside.

GetaheadThesaucecanbemadeinadvance,butthechurrosarebesteatenhotfromthefryer.

Makingyourowncottagecheesemightseemalittleunnecessarybutthehomemadestuffisnothingliketheshop-boughtvariety.ItmakestheperfectbaseformyEnglishgardensalad(seehere).

2litreswholemilkseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperjuiceof4lemons

Inalargepan,heatthemilkwithafewgrindsofsaltandpepper.Justbeforeitcomestotheboil,takeitofftheheat.Stirinthelemonjuice,thencoverandsetasidefor30minutes.Themilkwillcurdleandseparateintowheyandcurd.

Pourthroughasievelinedwithacleanteatowelormuslin.Hangtheteatoweloverthesinkforthecurdtodrainforaround30minutes.Whendrained,twisttheteatowelaroundthetopofthecheeseandsqueezeitdry.

Havinggoodstocktohandmeanshavingaconstantsourceofflavourtoplaywith.Butinasmallkitchenitcanbetrickytostorefreshstockallthetime.Reducingstockdownuntilit’sintenselyconcentrated,thenfreezingitinicecubetrays,isagreatwayofmakingitavailableforanyoccasion,withouttakinguptoomuchpreciousspace.

1litrefreshhamstock(usethestockfromthesmokedhamhocksonhere)

Equipmenta14-holeicecubetray

Placethestockinalargewidepanandsimmerforaround45minutes,oruntilreducedtoabout200ml.Pourintoanemptyicecubetrayandleavetocoolbeforeplacinginthefreezer.

TipYoucanusethisstockwheneveryoulike;it’sperfectformyspeedyonepotnoodle.

1tbspeachofchoppedcapers,choppedcornichons,choppedparsley,choppedtarragonandchoppedchervil1quantityofmayonnaise,asabove

Stirthecapers,cornichonsandherbsintothemayonnaise.Servewithsnap,crackleandpopfish(seehere).

Ihavequiteacollectionofchillisaucesinmyfridge,fromthesuper-fierystufftothisone,whichyoucanprettymuchputonanythingifyoufancyasweetandspicykick.

200gcastersugar180mlwhitewinevinegar3cmpieceofginger,peeledandfinelychopped3–4smallredchillies,veryfinelychopped,withseeds

1tbspcornflour

Place200mlofwaterinasmallsaucepanwiththesugar,vinegar,gingerandchilliesonahighheat.Bringtotheboil,thencontinuetoboilfor10minutes,stirringoccasionally.

Whisk1½tablespoonsoftheliquidintothecornflourinasmallbowl,thenaddbacktothesaucepan.Turntheheatdowntolowandcookforabout5minutes,untilitthickenstoajust-pourableconsistency,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Decantintosterilizedjarsandleaveforaround30minutestocoolcompletely.

Servewiththesoftsteamedbuns.

TipDependingontheheatofthechilliesandyourpersonalpreference,youcanadjustthenumberusedandremovetheseedsifdesired.

GetaheadThesaucecanbemadeaheadanddecantedintosterilizedjars.Tosterilizeglassjars,washthoroughlyanddrainupsidedown.Placeonatrayinanovenat180°C(fan)for10minutes.Sterilizethelidsbyplacinginboilingwateronthehobfor10minutes,thenremovecarefullyandleavetodryoncleanteatowels.

I’vealwaysbelievedthatyoudon’tneedthelatestgadgetsandgizmostomakeadeliciousmeal,andhaveoftencookedinplaceswherenoteverythingistohand.I’vebuiltupmykitchenequipmentovertheyears,butifIhadtodoitalloveragainonasmallbudgetthesearethethingsIwouldinitiallyinvestin:

LargecocottePerfectforslowcookingdishes.Alsogreatbecauseyoucantransferitfromhobtooven.Notthecheapestitemtobuy,butagood-qualityonewilllastyoualifetime.I’vefoundafewthatareingoodnickatcharityshopsandfleamarkets.

LargefryingpanInvestinonewithaheavybase(itconductstheheatbetter)andagood-qualityhandle(usuallythefirstthingtobreak).

SmallsaucepanForthesmallerjobswhereyoudon’tneedalargecocotte.

SpeedpeelerOneofmyfavouritetools,notbecauseIlovepeelingpotatoesbutmorebecauseyoucanuseittomakeribbonsoutofcucumbers,courgettes,carrotsandmanyotherthingstojazzupyoursalad.

SmallandlargestainlesssteelorglassmixingbowlsPlasticbowlsarehardertogetsuperclean.They’remorelikelytohavetracesofgreasefrombeingusedbeforehand,whichisthelastthingyouwantwhenyou’remakingameringue.Aspotlessbowlisessentialformakingmeringuesandstainlesssteelorglassmixingbowlsareperfectforthis.Theyalsocomeinhandyformeltingchocolateoverasimmeringpanofwater.

handyformeltingchocolateoverasimmeringpanofwater.

Achef’sknife,aserratedbreadknifeandasmallvegetableknife,plusaknifesharpenerIfthere’sonethingyoushouldspendmoneyonit’sknives.Welllookedafterandkeptsharp,theyshouldlastyouatleastadecade,ifnotalifetime.Makesuretostoreyourknivesinaknifeblockoronamagneticknifestrip,notinadrawer.

HeatproofspatulaBetterthanawoodenspoon,aheatproofspatula(siliconeisgreat)canscrapethesidesandbottomofthesaucepantoensurenothingendsupburning.Canalsodoubleupforgentlyfoldingbatter.

DigitalscalesIusedtoteachFrenchbakingtoAmericantouristsinParisandIwasconstantlytryingtoconvincethemthatweighingingredientsisanabsolutemustwhenitcomestobaking.Soinvestinoneofthese!Italsocomesinhandywhenmeasuringliquids(1ml=1g),meaningnomeasuringjugisneededandyoucanbeaccuratetothedecimalpoint.

OventhermometerIregularlyendupusingovensinmanydifferentkitchens,andnomatterwhatthethermometersaysontheovenitismoreoftenthannotincorrect.Havinganadditionaloventhermometerisagoodwaytomakesurethetemperatureiscorrectforbaking.

WhiskWhenyou’rebuyingawhisk,lookforonewithsturdymetal‘spokes’.Flimsyonesmeanitwilltakelongertowhipupeggwhitesandcream.

Fine-meshedsieveDoublesupforsiftinglumpsoutoficingsugarordrainingoffliquids.

SpringformbakingtinProbablythemostpopularsizewhenitcomestobakingis20cmdiameter.Aspringformwithitseasyreleaseleverwilllimittheriskofcakesstickingtothe

sides.

Choppingboard(woodorplastic)Ifyouwanttotakegoodcareofyourknives,makesurenevertochoponaglassormarblesurface.Don’tdragtheknifebladeacrosstheboardtoscrapeingredientsintoapot,insteadturnthebladeupsidedowntoscrape.Usingthebladetoscrapetheboardisthequickestwayofbluntingtheblade.

Notamustbutsomeadditionalfavourites:

JapanesemandolinComesinhandyformakingequallythinslicedpotatoesforyourgratin.Thegraterbladeforjuliennevegetablesmakesthecrunchiestslaw(ratherthanasoggyone).Justmakesuretobecarefulandusethehandguard!

MicroplanegraterPerfectforzestingcitrusfruitasitonlytakesthefinelayerofzestratherthanthepith,andequallyusefulforfinelygratinghardcheeses.

PipingbagwithasetofpipingnozzlesIfyou’reabuddingbaker,thenagoodpipingbag(goforthesilicone-coatedoneswhichcanbeeasilycleanedratherthantheold-fashionedclothones)andasetofpipingnozzles(startipandround)areamust.

ContainersWheneverIuseupajarofjamorhoneyitgetswashedoutandusedtostoredryingredients–it’smuchbetterthanhavingopenpacketslyingaround.InadditiontojamjarsIalsohaveaselectionofgood-qualityairtightcontainers;perfectforstoringleftoversinthefridgeorfreezingthem.

FlatandangledspatulasIhavemini(12cm)spatulas,bothangledandstraight,aswellaslargeones.Theymakeeasyworkoficingcakesandthelargeronesarehandyformovingcakesaround.Alsogreatforliftingupingredientstoseewhetherthey’recookedunderneath.

Thisisalittleglimpseintomyfridgeandkitchencupboards.You’llalwaysfindtheseingredientshangingabout,evenifIhaven’tbeenforarecentgroceryshop.

EggsIloveeggswhetherthey’refried,poachedorsoftboiled;hencemesplashingoutalittlemoreforeggswitharichyolk.Youcanseethedifferencewhenyoumakeapastrycream(suchasfortherhubarbandcustardmillefeuille)asitwillhavearicheryellowhue,makingitmoreappetizing.Forme,afriedeggservedsunnysideupwillimmediatelybrightenupeventhedullestgreywinter’sday.Therecipesinthisbookweremadeusingmediumfree-range(andorganic)eggs.ItendtokeepthematroomtemperatureinmykitchenasIgetthroughthemquicklyanditmakesthemlesslikelytocrackwhenboilingthemforasoft-boiledegg.Forbakingalso,itishandytohaveallyouringredientsatroomtemperaturewhenyoustart.

ButterMymantra‘Buttermakeseverythingbetter’stemsfrommyAustriangrandma’sloveofthegoldenstuff.Idon’tneedtosaymuchabouthowaddingaknobofbuttertoadishwillgiveitasmoothtaste.Youcaneventryyourhandatmakingyourownonhere.

CheeseTosayIlovecheeseisanunderstatement.Ihaveaseriousproblem.There’salwaysapieceofcheese(preferablythepungentkind)inmyfridge.Pairedwithafewcornichonsorpickledonionsandsomecrackers,it’sthelazy,butdelicious,dinnerIturntowhenI’vebeencookingallday.

Crèmefraîche(orthickGreekyoghurtforthelighterdays)Aversatileingredient:asimpleblobofthecreamystuffwithsomefreshberries,adrizzleofmeltedchocolateanddessertissorted.Alsoperfectforsaladdressings,addingtosoupsormakingsauces.

SaltForseasoningIalwaysuseaflakyseasaltsuchasMaldon.

MeatAlwaysbuythebestqualitymeatyoucanafford.IwouldprefernottoeatitifIamunsureofhowitwasraised,soItryhardtosourceminefromtrustworthysuppliers.Iamalsoabigfanofslow-cookingcutsandoffal,whicharetastierinmyopinionandfarmoreaffordablethatchickenbreastsorfilletsofbeef.TurnerandGeorge(www.turnerandgeorge.co.uk)areanexcellentsourceofallthingscarnivorous,andtheydeliveracrosstheUK.

FishIamfortunatetohaveaccesstoanexcellentlocalfishmongerthatonlysellsfishcaughtinasustainablemanner.Don’tbeafraidtoaskyourfishmongerwherethefishcomesfromandlookoutforthesealofapprovalfromtheMCSortheRSPCAFreedomFoodschemeifyouarebuyingtinnedorfrozenfish.

FreshherbsEvenlivinginthecityIstillhaveawindowboxortwowithplentyofherbsandtheoddradishgrowinginit.It’smuchcheaperandsignificantlymorerewardingthanbuyingthem.Beforethecoldwinterhitsyourharvest,popyourherbsinthefreezer.

WinevinegarIprefertodressmysaladswithredorwhitewinevinegar,ratherthanbalsamic,whichcanbeoverbearinglysweetandsticky.Winevinegarhasacleanertaste.Ialsouseitinsaucestoaddaofbitaciditywhenneeded,suchasinmysummerspaghettibolognesesauceormychilledcucumbersoup.

ChillisauceIhaveatleastthreetypesofchillisauceinmyfridge:asweetone(perfectfor

dippingspringrolls,likemyownchillisauce),afieryone(Ilovespicyfoodandwilloftenusechillisaucelikeakidwouldliberallyusetomatoketchup)andTabasco–perfectforseasoningabloodymary.

TinnedcherrytomatoesSweeterandmoreflavourfulthantheirplumcousins.I’veusedtheminquiteafewrecipes,suchasmycreamoftomatosouportheseafoodchilli.

Lentils–PuyorbelugaIalwaysfeelalittlevirtuouswhenIeatlentils,unlikewithpastaorpotatoes.YoumightcallmealentilsnobasIprefertheslightlymoreexpensivetype,butbothPuyandbelugaholdtheirshapebetterandhaveadeliciousnuttyflavour.

OvenIusethefansettingformostofmycookingasIfindthattheheatdistributesmoreevenly.Ifyouhaveaconventionaloventhenadd20°Ctothetemperature.Itishelpfultokeepathermometerforprecision.

Spacetoaddyourownscribblesanddoodles.

Thankyou!

Liketheoldsaying‘behindeverysuccessfulmanisastrongwoman’goes,asimilarthingcouldbesaidaboutasuccessfulfoodwriter.Behindthescenes

thereisabrilliantteamofpeoplewhosupportmywritingandensurethebookisthebestitcanbe.Withoutthesepeopletherewouldbenobook.SoaBIGthankyouto:mypublisher:PenguinandthefantasticteamatMichaelJosephmy

editors:LindseyEvansandTamsinEnglish

myartdirector:JohnHamilton

myphotographer:DavidLoftus

myfoodstylist:FrankieUnsworth

mypropstylists:LydiaBrunandOliviaWardle

myliteraryagent:LizzyKremer,HarrietMooreandtheteamatDavidHighammyassistantsandrecipetester:LibbyDavis,HelenVass,CharliePhillipsand

BrenParkins-KnightAndlastbutnotleastmyfriends,familyandRobertWiktorin.

Andthefollowingbrandsforthelovelyclothes:PetitBateauwww.petit-bateau.co.uk

MrsPomeranzwww.mrs-pomeranz.com

Andthefollowingshopsandbrandsforlendingussomebeautifulprops:RockettStGeorge

www.rockettstgeorge.co.uk

TheDeliDownstairswww.thedelidownstairs.co.uk

FiredEarth(specialthankstoElizabethofMar)

MostoftheFiredEarthtilesusedforthepurposeofthisshootarewalltilesandnotsuitableforsurfaces.Formoreinfoontheirtiles,pleasevisittheFiredEarth

website.www.firedearth.com

PresentandCorrect(specialthankstoNeal)

www.presentandcorrect.com

LeCreusetwww.lecreuset.co.uk

TheSalvationArmywww.salvationarmy.org.uk

Anthropologiewww.anthropologie.eu

Leila’sgeneralstorewww.leilasgeneralstore.com

JuliaSmithceramicswww.juliasmithceramics.com

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MICHAELJOSEPHPublishedbythePenguinGroupPenguinBooksLtd,80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,EnglandPenguinGroup(USA)Inc.,375HudsonStreet,NewYork,NewYork10014,USAPenguinGroup(Canada),90EglintonAvenueEast,Suite700,Toronto,Ontario,CanadaM4P2YR(adivisionofPearsonPenguinCanadaInc.)PenguinIreland,25StStephen’sGreen,Dublin2,Ireland(adivisionofPenguinBooksLtd)PenguinGroup(Australia),707CollinsStreet,Melbourne,Victoria3008,Australia(adivisionofPearsonAustraliaGroupPtyLtd)PenguinBooksIndiaPvtLtd,11CommunityCentre,PanchsheelPark,NewDelhi–110017,IndiaPenguinGroup(NZ),67ApolloDrive,Rosedale,Auckland0632,NewZealand(adivisionofPearsonNewZealandLtd)PenguinBooks(SouthAfrica)(Pty)Ltd,BlockD,RosebankOfficePark,181JanSmutsAvenue,ParktownNorth,Gauteng2193,SouthAfricaPenguinBooksLtd,RegisteredOffices:80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,Englandwww.penguin.com

www.rachelkhoo.com

Firstpublished2015

Textcopyright©RachelKhoo,2015Photographycopyright©DavidLoftus,2015Illustrationscopyright©PeasinaPotLtd,2015

ThemoralrightoftheauthorhasbeenassertedAllrightsreservedISBN:978-0-718-18073-7