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Pure Blonding Educator Guide

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Page 1: Pure Blonding · help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program. ... to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the

Pure Blonding

Educator Guide

Page 2: Pure Blonding · help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program. ... to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the

Pure Blonding

Acknowledgements

Development of this program …

Trademarks & Copyright Acknowledgements

PowerPoint® is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.

LeaderGuide Pro™ is a trademark of Great Circle Learning, Inc.

Intellectual property of Aveda Corporation.

This leader guide was created with:

a product of Great Circle Learning, Inc. www.leaderguidepro.com

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Leader Guide Table of Contents

© 2012 Page i Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTORY MATERIAL

Getting Started iii

About This Guide iii

The Program In Perspective vii

Program Preparation viii

Training At A Glance xiv

MODULES

Welcome and Introduction 1

Welcome and Introduction 2

Introduction to Blonding 6

Think Like a Blonde Quiz 7

Blonde Perception 13

Blonde Formulation 20

Color Theory 21

Enlightenment™ Blonding 31

Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones 37

Blonde Results and Formulas 43

Toning 51

Low Lighting 66

Blonde Results and Conclusion 76

Blonde Results and Conclusion 77

Page 4: Pure Blonding · help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program. ... to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the

Table of Contents Leader Guide

Page ii Pure Blonding

Page 5: Pure Blonding · help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program. ... to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the

Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page iii Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Getting Started

About This Guide

What’s the purpose of this guide?

This leader guide provides a master reference document to help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program.

What will I find in the guide?

This leader guide is a comprehensive package that contains

the workshop delivery sequence

checklists of necessary materials and equipment

presentation scripts and key points to cover, and

instructions for managing exercises, case studies, and other instructional activities.

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Getting Started Leader Guide

Page iv Pure Blonding

About This Guide

How is this guide organized?

This section, “Getting Started,” contains all of the preparation information for the Pure Blonding program, such as learning objectives, pre-work, required materials, and room set-up.

Following this section is the “Training At A Glance” table. This table can serve as your overview reference, showing the module names, timings, and process descriptions for the entire program.

Finally, the program itself is divided into modules, each of which is comprised of one or more lessons. A module is a self-contained portion of the program, usually lasting anywhere from 20 to 90 minutes, while a lesson is a shorter (typically 5-20 minute) topic area. Each module begins with a one-page summary showing the Purpose, Time, Process, and Materials for the module. Use these summary pages to get an overview of the module that follows.

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Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page v Rev. Date 4/26/2012

About This Guide, continued

How is the text laid out in this guide?

Every action in the program is described in this guide by a text block like this one, with a margin icon, a title line, and the actual text. The icons are designed to help catch your eye and draw quick attention to “what to do and how to do it.” For example, the icon to the left indicates that you, the instructor, say something next. The title line gives a brief description of what to do, and is followed by the actual script, instruction set, key points, etc. that are needed to complete the action.

A complete list of the margin icons used in this guide is provided on the following page.

IMPORTANT NOTE

You may also occasionally find important notes such as this one in the text of this guide. These shaded boxes provide particularly important information in an attention-getting format.

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Getting Started Leader Guide

Page vi Pure Blonding

About This Guide, continued

Graphic Cues

Module Blocks

Goal Time Overview Materials Break

Lesson Blocks

Quiz Flipchart Activity Handouts Important Note Key Points Slide

Ask Say Time Q&A Transition Video Workbook

4MAT Wheel Connect Attend Image Inform Practice Extend

Refine Perform

Page 9: Pure Blonding · help you prepare for and deliver the Pure Blonding program. ... to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the

Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page vii Rev. Date 4/26/2012

The Program In Perspective

Why a Pure Blonding program?

To help hair colorists take blonding basics to the next level by learning techniques to overcome common blonding challenges.

Learning Objectives

After completing the program, participants will be able to:

Apply the Golden Rules of blonding to create consistently beautiful blondes

Maximize their blonde results by utilizing the Full Spectrum™ Hair Color components

Formulate a variety of blonde shades with confidence

Consult and connect with guests to create the perfect blonde

Program Timing

9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. (6 hours + 1-hour lunch break)

Number of Participants

15 Maximum

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Getting Started Leader Guide

Page viii Pure Blonding

Program Preparation

Participant Pre-Work

Participants must have attended Hair Color Systems and Hair Color Solutions as a prerequisite. Participants should come to class with the necessary materials (see Participants to Bring section for a complete list).

Required Materials

General Materials Pure Blonding Educator Guide

Pure Blonding PowerPoint Presentation

Pure Blonding Participant Workbook (1 per participant)

Full Spectrum™ Hair Color Professional Reference Guide (OPTIONAL, 1 per table)

Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Toning Formulas Swatchboard (1 per participant)

Tone Classification Activity Handout (4 sets, printed in color)

Head Sheets (a stack per table)

LCD Projector and Screen

Computer/Laptop

Speakers

Wireless Clicker/Pointer

Mission, Vision and Beliefs Posters (1 of each placed around the room, can be printed from the Global Education & Event Standards on Aveda PurePro™)

Flipchart and Markers

Masking Tape (1 roll per table)

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Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page ix Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Program Preparation

Scissors (2 per table)

Aveda Candles (1 per table)

Hand Relief™ or Stress-Fix™ Body Lotion (1 per table)

Chakra™ Balancing Body Mists (1 complete set distributed among all tables)

Blue Oil Balancing Concentrate (1 per table)

Colored Pencils and/or Markers in Cups (1 cup per table)

Highlighters (1 per participant)

Ball Point Pens (1 per participant)

Blank Paper (1 stack per table)

Post-it Notes (1 pack or equivalent per participant)

Aveda Products and Technical Tools

One Complete Set of Each Hair Color Category:

– Full Spectrum™ Permanent

– Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment

– Enlightenment™ Blonding

Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment Creme and Liquid Activators

Color Catalyst™ (all volumes)

Color Conserve™ Shampoo/Conditioner/pHinish™/Strengthening Treatment

Botanical Therapy Repair Treatment

Spray Bottles (for Botanical Therapy application)

Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution

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Getting Started Leader Guide

Page x Pure Blonding

Program Preparation

Full Spectrum™ Stain Remover

Color Viscosity™ Hair Color Thickener

Aveda Styling Products for Finishing

Mannequin Heads (1 per 4 participants, 1 for educator)

Tripods and Clamps

Shampoo Bowls (3)

Electricity Station (one 20 amp electrical circuit per blow dryer)

Pivot Point Swatches (white yak, 1 packet per participant)

Bowls/Applicator Bottles

Brushes

Foil

Gloves

Blow Dryers (4)

Paddle Brushes (4)

Scales

Tube Wringers

Whisks

Towels (2 per participant)

Participants to Bring

Tail Combs

Hair Clips

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Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page xi Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Program Preparation

Room & Table Set-Up

Room Set-Up Set up the room with theater-style seating and round

tables (space permitting).

Set up the Electricity and Shampoo Stations (make sure there is one 20 amp electrical circuit per each blow dryer).

Place the mission, vision and beliefs posters around the room.

Place a flipchart on a stand at the front of the room.

Set up the computer, projector and screen at the front of the room.

Table Set-Up Pure Blonding Participant Workbook (1 per participant)

Full Spectrum™ Hair Color Professional Reference Guide (OPTIONAL, 1 per table)

Head Sheets (a stack per table)

Aveda Candles, lighted (1 per table)

Hand Relief™ or Stress-Fix™ Body Lotion (1 per table)

Chakra™ Balancing Body Mists (2–3 per table)

Blue Oil Balancing Concentrate (1 per table)

Masking Tape (1 roll per table)

Scissors (2 per table)

Colored Pencils and/or Markers in Cups (1 cup per table)

Highlighters (1 per participant)

Ball Point Pens (1 per participant)

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Getting Started Leader Guide

Page xii Pure Blonding

Program Preparation

Blank Paper (1 stack per table)

Post-it Notes (1 pack or equivalent per participant)

Instructor Preparation

Review the Global Education & Events Standards guide to ensure Aveda’s global training standards are being met. Use the Program Set-Up Checklist in the Appendix as your guide.

Prepare any flipcharts in advance.

Prepare mission and wellness activities for the beginning of the class.

IMPORTANT: Add the assigned Course ID to the last PowerPoint slide for online participant evaluations.

Read through this educator guide, and make sure you are comfortable with all the information and activities.

On the day of the training, arrive early and ensure the room is set up one hour before the start time. Check to make sure all A/V equipment is working properly.

Spray the room with a Chakra™ Balancing Body Mist, and play upbeat music as participants arrive.

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Leader Guide Getting Started

© 2012 Page xiii Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Program Preparation

4MAT WHEEL

Concept: Evolution

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Training At A Glance Leader Guide

Page xiv Pure Blonding

Training At A Glance

Time Module Description

30 Minutes

Welcome and Introduction

Welcome participants to the training, review learning objectives and perform mission and wellness activities.

1 Hour

Introduction to Blonding

Take the Think Like a Blonde quiz, practice classifying blonde tones into categories, develop a common language around blonde colors and brainstorm blonde bloopers and solutions.

3 Hours (+ 1-hour lunch break)

Blonde Formulation

Review color theory and how to correctly formulate blondes using Enlightenment™ Blonding and Extra Lifting Creme.

1 Hour

Blonde Results and Conclusion

Debrief results, identify blonde breakthroughs, review the Golden Rules and create action plans.

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Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction

© 2012 Page 1 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Welcome and Introduction

Goal

The purpose and goal of this module is to welcome participants to the training and review the learning objectives.

Time

30 Minutes

Overview

Welcome participants to the training, review learning objectives and perform mission and wellness activities.

Materials Needed

See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide.

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Welcome and Introduction Leader Guide

Page 2 Pure Blonding

Welcome and Introduction

Slide 1

SAY

Welcome to Pure Blonding!

IMPORTANT NOTE

Introduce yourself to the group, and share your history and role with Aveda.

Go over any necessary housekeeping information (bathroom locations, breaks, cell phone usage, etc.).

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Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction

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Welcome and Introduction

Slide 2

SAY

Let’s begin with some introductions. As we go around the room, please share your:

– Name/salon/role

– Expectations for the course

– Favorite blonde icon

Record the group’s expectations on the flipchart.

Explain that you will return to this list at the end of class to ensure everyone’s expectations were met.

SAY

Today is about evolving your current knowledge and confidence with blonding by reviewing key concepts and expanding on the basics to ensure you are creating the perfect blonde for every guest.

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Welcome and Introduction Leader Guide

Page 4 Pure Blonding

Welcome and Introduction

Slide 3

SAY

Let’s review our learning objectives. After this class, you will be able to:

Apply the Golden Rules of blonding to create consistently beautiful blondes

Maximize your blonde results by utilizing the Full Spectrum™ Hair Color components

Formulate a variety of blonde shades with confidence

Consult and connect with guests to create the perfect blonde

Slide 4

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Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction

© 2012 Page 5 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Welcome and Introduction

ACTIVITY: MISSION

Perform the suggested mission activity below or a mission activity of your choice.

Suggested Mission Activity: Hair Color and the Mission

Ask participants to share phrases from the mission that relate specifically to Aveda Hair Color. For example, they might choose “set an example” because Aveda pioneered naturally derived hair color.

Slide 5

ACTIVITY: WELLNESS

Perform a wellness activity of your choice.

Transition to Introduction to Blonding

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 6 Pure Blonding

Introduction to Blonding

Goal

The purpose and goal of this module is to introduce participants to the blonding concepts they will learn and practice.

Time

1 Hour

Overview

Take the Think Like a Blonde quiz, practice classifying blonde tones into categories, develop a common language around blonde colors and brainstorm blonde bloopers and solutions.

Materials Needed

See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide.

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 7 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

connect

Slide 6

Page 3

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

We are going to start out with a quiz that will get you thinking about your blonde business.

I’ll read each question and give you a moment to write the answer in your workbook. Then I’ll share the correct answer and we’ll discuss it as a group. If you get an answer wrong, be sure to write down the correct answer for future reference. We’ll tally our scores at the end to determine the type of blonde you are.

Think Like a Blonde Questions & Answers

Q: It has been estimated that approximately less than _____% of people in the world have naturally blonde hair.

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 8 Pure Blonding

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

A: 2%. Blonde hair is usually finer and thinner than other hair types. The golden/yellow color is the result of low levels of melanin pigmentation. Blonde hair is attributed to a recessive gene, thus partially explaining its relative rarity (when compared to brown or black hair). It has been estimated that approximately less than 2% of people in the world have naturally blonde hair (www.lovetoknow.com). While blonde hair is a recessive gene, it is not a disappearing gene. The World Health Organization and others erroneously published a report that claimed people with blonde hair would become extinct by 2202.

Q: True or False. Scientists believe that scalps with blonde hair have more hair than scalps with brown, black or red hair.

A: True. Hair expert Jane Bullock Fraser states, "The average scalp has 100,000 hairs. Redheads have the least at 80,000; brown- and black-haired persons have about 100,000; and blondes have the most at 120,000" (Fraser, "Weird and Wonderful Hair Facts," 2008).

Q: True or False. Guests coming in for blonding services spend 50% more per service than other color services.

A: True. Of the Aveda salons surveyed, the average service tickets were approximately 30–50% higher than other color tickets.

Q: Naturally blonde hair is characterized by low levels of _____________ and _________________.

A: Eumelanin and pheomelanin. Hair color is based on how much melanin, or pigmentation, is in the hair. Two types of melanin create hair color: 1) eumelanin and 2) pheomelanin. The more eumelanin a person has, the darker their hair will be. Pheomelanin works in a similar way, except instead of causing hair to be blacker, it causes hair to be redder. Low levels of both eumelanin and pheomelanin characterize blonde hair.

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 9 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

Q: Which countries are known for having the largest number of inhabitants with blonde hair?

A: Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Iceland and Finland. Due to the practice of hair coloring, accurate statistics regarding natural blondness are difficult to acquire. However, people from many parts of Scandinavia are natural blondes. Northern Europe tends to have higher rates of multi-hued heads of hair than other parts of the world (BBC News, March 2001).

Q: True or False. On average, more than 50% of a salon’s total color services are blonding services.

A: True. Only 1 in 20 white American adults is naturally blonde, and roughly the same ratio applies to white northern Europeans. Statistics also show virtually 1 in 3 white adult females dye their hair a shade of blonde. If you factor in all other nationalities and ethnic backgrounds desiring a blonde result, you have a huge growth potential for your color business.

Q: Historically, hydrogen peroxide began the blonding revolution when it was invented in 1818.

A: True. When hydrogen peroxide was discovered in 1818, there was little application for it until 1867 when it was discovered that it could bleach hair. It quickly became popular throughout Europe and America, superseding everything else that had been used as bleach before that time. Before hydrogen peroxide, women in early history used other methods to bleach their hair. In Ancient Rome, women tried to dye their hair blonde with pigeon dung, and in Renaissance Venice, they used horse urine.

Q: Guests receiving blonding services schedule an average of ____ additional visits per year and purchase _______% more in retail product than guests receiving other color services.

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 10 Pure Blonding

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

A: Guests receiving blonding services schedule an average of 3 additional visits per year (every 5–6 weeks as opposed to 8 weeks) and purchase 40% more in retail product than guests receiving other color services—approximately $30 vs. $18.

Q: ____________ is a term used to describe a natural color of blonde found most commonly in light-skinned infants and children.

A: Baby blonde. Naturally blonde hair is most common in light-skinned infants and children—so much so that the term "baby blonde" is often used for very light-colored hair. Babies may be born with blonde hair even among groups where adults rarely have blonde hair, although such natural hair usually falls out quickly. Blonde hair tends to turn darker with age, and many children's blonde hair turns light, medium, dark brown or black before or during their adult years. As blonde hair tends to turn brunette with age, naturally blonde hair is rare and only makes up approximately 2% of the world's population.

Q: Blonde hair comes in a multitude of tints and colors. What is NOT an adjective regularly joined with “blonde” to denote a specific shade:

Flaxen

Platinum

Ash

Morado

A: Morado. Blonde hair tends to come in a variety of hues, from platinum blonde (bright, almost silvery blonde) to ash blonde (brownish blonde). Flaxen, golden, dirty, silver and strawberry are among the many adjectives attached to “blonde.” Morado is the Spanish word for purple.

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 11 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

attend

Slide 7

SAY

Great job everyone! Take a moment to tally your quiz results. Use the scale on the screen or in your workbook to find out what type of blonde you are.

7–10 Correct: Bombshell Blonde

4–6 Correct: Dishwater Blonde

1–3 Correct: Brassy Blonde

IMPORTANT NOTE

Take a quick poll to gauge the level of knowledge in the room. Spend more time on various concepts as needed.

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 12 Pure Blonding

Think Like a Blonde Quiz

SAY

By the end of today’s class, our goal is that you will all evolve your skills to become Bombshell Blondes! Let’s begin that journey right now.

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 13 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Blonde Perception

image

Slide 8

SAY

Now that we’re all thinking like blondes, we’re going to do an activity to help us classify different blonde tones.

Create four flipchart pages with the following titles:

Strawberry

Ash/Cool

Golden/Warm

Neutral/Beige

Give a copy of the Tone Classification Activity handout to each group (MUST be printed in color).

ACTIVITY: BLONDE TONE CLASSIFICATION

Divide the participants into four groups.

Explain that they need to sort the images of blonde

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 14 Pure Blonding

Blonde Perception

colors into four categories:

– Strawberry

– Ash/Cool

– Golden/Warm

– Neutral/Beige

Assign a category to each group, and give them a flipchart page with their assigned category written at the top.

Instruct the participants to cut out images that best match their assigned tonal category and tape them to the flipchart in a collage. Have the groups work at their tables and not on the wall to prevent other participants from seeing their flipcharts.

Give the groups 10 minutes to complete their collages.

Have each group present their classification collage to the group and explain why they feel the images belong in their assigned category.

When all groups have presented, have participants return to their seats to debrief the activity.

ASK

How did it feel assigning colors to the descriptors?

Did it feel subjective or driven by one person’s perspective?

Were there disagreements in your group or did you all agree?

What key insights will you take away from this activity?

(Accept any answers, but listen for: ideas about perception and overlapping of categories)

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 15 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Blonde Perception

IMPORTANT NOTE

Some images will overlap categories, but this is the point of the activity. The goal is for participants to realize that the perception of a blonde tone is in the eye of the beholder.

SAY

How we see and classify blondes depends entirely on our perspective. As hair colorists, our role is to understand the color the guest is describing and see the same blonde they see. To be successful, our perspective must match theirs, or we must be able to describe what we believe they are asking for in terms they understand.

ASK

Do you feel like there is an opportunity to confirm our guests’ desired blonde results beyond just using words?

SAY

Sometimes the differences in how we describe blondes are very subtle. This presents an area of opportunity when we begin the path to blonding—ensuring you and your guest are on the same page with the desired outcome. Developing a common language is key, and we’re going to work on that now with some brainstorming.

Page 4

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 16 Pure Blonding

Blonde Perception

ACTIVITY: WORD BRAINSTORM

At their tables, have participants brainstorm descriptive terms for each of the four blonde categories, and write them down in their workbooks.

– Strawberry

– Ash/Cool

– Golden/Warm

– Neutral/Beige

Instruct them to avoid using technical terms (level, tone, etc.) and use common, universal terms instead (food, color, nature, etc.)

Give the groups 5 minutes to brainstorm.

Go around the room and have each table share their top ideas for each category. Encourage participants to add to the lists in their workbooks based on the other groups’ answers.

SAY

Remember to use these words and images when talking with your guests to help you begin the conversation and confirm the blonde tone they desire.

But sometimes, despite our best efforts, things can go wrong, right?

ASK

How many of you have had a guest who felt their blonde was too light or not light enough?

SAY

The good news is that it’s easy to fix when you have the right skills. Today we will review some Golden Rules of

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 17 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Blonde Perception

blonding to ensure you reduce your number of “not quite right” blonde results.

Let’s talk about some of the common “not quite right” results or “blonde bloopers” that can happen.

Slide 9

Page 5

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

Write “Blonde Bloopers” at the top of a flipchart page.

ACTIVITY: BLONDE BLOOPERS BRAINSTORM

At their tables, have participants brainstorm a list of things that go wrong when blonding.

After 5 minutes, have each group share their answers and record them on the flipchart. Circle or add a check mark to bloopers that are repeated.

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Introduction to Blonding Leader Guide

Page 18 Pure Blonding

Blonde Perception

IMPORTANT NOTE

The list of bloopers could be dozens of things, but focus on the following:

Too light

Not light enough

Brassy/too warm

Too cool/ashy

Banding

Highlight the repeated bloopers on the flipchart to emphasize that they are not alone in facing blonding challenges. Once they know the common mishaps, they can learn how to prevent them.

Slide 10

Page 5

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Leader Guide Introduction to Blonding

© 2012 Page 19 Rev. Date 4/26/2012

Blonde Perception

SAY

Click to reveal the solutions on the PowerPoint Slide.

On the screen, you’ll see a list of solutions that can help us overcome the bloopers we just brainstormed. Write this list of solutions in your workbook next to the list of bloopers we just created.

Then draw lines from the bloopers to their possible solutions. In some cases, you may have more than one challenge that applies to a solution or more than one solution that applies to a challenge.

Give participants a few minutes to complete the activity.

ASK

How do your lists look?

(Accept any answers, but listen for: messy, lots of possibilities, etc.)

SAY

This is why your guest pays you the big bucks—so you can figure out the solution you need to achieve the desired result. Today, our goal is to help you get on a clear path to achieving brilliant, beautiful blondes.

It all begins with proper formulation, which we’re going to review next.

Transition to Blonde Formulation

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Blonde Formulation

Goal

The purpose and goal of this module is to educate participants on how to formulate for perfect blondes.

Time

3 Hours (+ 1-hour lunch break)

Overview

Review color theory and how to correctly formulate blondes using Enlightenment™ Blonding and Extra Lifting Creme.

Materials Needed

See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide.

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Color Theory

inform

Slide 11

Page [#]

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Color theory is important in all color formulas, but when you work at the lightest levels, your level of color theory mastery really shows. Because you are working on a very light canvas, knowing the chemistry of hair, how color works and how N.R.P. affects the outcome is extremely important.

Being off with these concepts—even slightly— will dramatically affect your tone and determine if you get a golden or ash blonde.

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Color Theory

Slide 12

Page 6

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Melanin breaks down in the hair strand and gets smaller and smaller, but it never goes away. The darker the hair, the more melanin is present and the more difficult it is to lighten. It is important to choose the right product so you have the right amount of time needed to break down the melanin and lighten the hair. Today we will learn how Aveda’s hair color components affect your blonde outcome.

Blonding affects melanin differently than reds or brunettes, which “swap” the natural hair color for another color. This is why you have more wiggle room with a red or brunette outcome. You are keeping most of the melanin intact and slightly shifting the color.

When blonding, we are trying to break down the melanin to lighten the hair and control its tone. In order to achieve and create beautiful blondes, the first step is to master our N.R.P. chart.

As you can see in your workbook, examples of natural levels 10, 5 and 1 are shown with the amount/type of melanin

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Color Theory

each level contains. So if you are lightening a level 5 to a blonde, you will have a much better chance at breaking down the melanin than you would with a level 1 because although the melanin breaks down and lightens, it never goes away.

Slide 13

Page 7

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Earlier we discussed why understanding melanin and N.R.P. are important for achieving your desired blonde results. Let’s apply these concepts to a few blonde scenarios, starting with warm, brassy results. Look back at the bloopers/solutions list in your workbook for reference.

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Color Theory

Slide 14

ASK

What could have gone wrong to make a blonde too warm and brassy?

(Listen for: not light enough, application, processing time or product choice, which could include Color Catalyst™ as well as color components)

SAY

The warm, brassy results could have been related to all the things you mentioned. Let’s walk through the scenario to try and solve the challenge, beginning with N.R.P.

ASK

To eliminate a brassy, too warm result, which N.R.P. should you target when lifting your guest’s level (no matter their starting level)?

(Listen for: levels 9/10 or yellow/pale yellow)

Which pigments do you want to eliminate completely?

(Listen for: orange, yellow/orange or gold)

Why do you want to eliminate them?

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Color Theory

(Listen for: orange, yellow/orange and gold cannot be toned down without going darker)

SAY

This brings us to our first Golden Rule of blonding.

Slide 15

Page 7

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

To avoid brassy, overly warm blondes, lift to a level 9 or higher. There is no residual warmth (brassy tones) at level 9 and above. To eliminate orange pigment from the hair, you must lift to a target level 9 or 10. Remember you can always tone down to the desired level if you go too light.

An example of this would be a guest who wants to be a neutral level 8.

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Color Theory

ASK

What is the N.R.P. at level 8?

(Listen for: yellow/orange)

SAY

If you want a neutral 8 with no warmth showing through, it is better to lift to a level 9 first and then tone down to a level 8. The levels of lift you need will determine your product choice.

ASK

Are there any questions about the first Golden Rule?

Slide 16

Page 8

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

The second Golden Rule of blonding is to pick the right products for the job.

Let’s start with the product used in every permanent hair

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Color Theory

color mixture—Color Catalyst™.

There are five different volumes to choose from (5, 10, 20, 30, 40) that are each designed to achieve a specific level of lift.

ASK

Does anyone know what makes the volumes different?

(Listen for: the amount of oxygen produced)

SAY

The difference between Color Catalyst™ volumes is the amount of oxygen produced, which is the power of the developer. The higher the volume, the more power it uses to break down melanin.

ASK

Who has used 40 volume and Enlightener™ Powder Lightener before?

(Look for a show of hands.)

How would you describe the difference in the lift achieved using 10 volume with Enlightener™ versus using 40 volume with Enlightener™?

(Listen for: you achieve the lift faster with 40 volume)

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Color Theory

Slide 17

SAY

Many colorists are surprised then they learn that using 40 volume doesn’t actually get you lighter results—it just gets you there faster. This means that you can get the same amount of lightness using 10 volume—it will just take longer.

ASK

What are some other factors you must consider when selecting your Color Catalyst™ volume for an Enlightener™ formula?

(Listen for: the amount of work to be done (number of foils, etc.), hair density, hair texture (coarse or fine), other products in the hair, processing time, etc.)

SAY

There are many factors to consider, but using the correct Color Catalyst™ volume will help you get the job done.

Remember that when you’re working with Enlightener™, go “low and slow” with Color Catalyst™. To maintain the integrity of the hair and achieve desired lightness, select the lowest catalyst and process longer.

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Color Theory

ASK

When using a level to create your blondes (6N–10N are considered blonde), how do you choose the Color Catalyst™ volume?

(Listen for: based on the levels of lift you want to achieve)

SAY

When working with a level, you will choose the levels of lift you desire and select the appropriate Color Catalyst™ volume. You would also control or enhance N.R.P. at the level using Pure Tones.

Slide 18

ASK

Which Pure Tones control N.R.P.?

(Listen for: cool tones like Violet/Blue, Blue/Blue, Blue/Green, Blue/Violet)

Which Pure Tones enhance N.R.P.?

(Listen for: warm tones like Yellow/Orange, Orange/Red, Red/Orange, Violet/Red and Red Pure Pigment)

Who remembers our first Golden Rule? If you desire a blonde without orange, what level must you target?

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Color Theory

(Listen for: level 9 and higher)

What products do you need to lift to a level 9 or higher?

(Listen for: Enlightener™ Creme Booster, Extra Lifting Creme and Full Spectrum™ Permanent)

What would be the best product to use if you want to lighten to a level 9 and achieve a non-brassy result?

(Listen for: depends on the starting level or how many levels of lift you want to achieve)

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

Slide 19

Page 9

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

ASK

How many levels of lift can Enlightener™ achieve?

(Listen for: unlimited)

SAY

When a guest wants to be the lightest, brightest blonde—without brassiness—Enlightener™ Powder Lightener would be your best choice for ultimate, maximum blonding.

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

Slide 20

IMPORTANT NOTE

Choose the depth of your Enlightener™ review based on the knowledge level in the room.

SAY

Let’s review the key features of the two Enlightenment™ Blonding products:

Enlightener™ Powder Lightener: A protective, low-dust, powdered lightener used on all levels for ultimate, high-lift lightening.

Transforms all blondes with maximum lift while infusing healthy, brilliant shine

Provides ultimate lift for on-the-scalp lightening and off-the-scalp applications when mixed with Enlightener™ Creme Booster

Sunflower, castor and jojoba oils protect the hair during processing and add incredible condition, shine and combability

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

Refreshing Pure-Fume™ aroma includes peppermint, lemon, rose absolute and other pure flower and plant essences

Low-dust formula creates a cleaner and safer mixing environment in the salon

Slide 21

SAY

Enlightener™ Creme Booster: A protective boosting creme mixed exclusively with Enlightener™ Powder Lightener to deliver maximum lift.

Delivers ultimate lift and brightness for on- and off-the-scalp applications

Accelerates the decolorization process by up to 15 minutes

Soothing blue camomile and cooling menthol help prevent scalp irritation for on-the-scalp applications

Delivers maximum blonde results while infusing the hair with incredible condition, shine and combability

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

Slide 22

SAY

Let’s review the mixing ratio of Enlightener™ Powder Lightener to Creme Booster.

Point out where the information lives on the packaging.

1 scoop Enlightener™ Powder Lightener

30 g Enlightener™ Creme Booster

60 ml Color Catalyst™

20 volume is standard for this blonding formula, but the next activity will test the results of using Enlightener™ with different volumes of Color Catalyst™.

IMPORTANT NOTE

The objective of the next activity is for participants to recognize and learn that different levels of Color Catalyst™ produce the same result within first 20 minutes of processing and that 10 volume may be the best choice for getting clearer, more even blonding results—especially when taking someone very dark to a very light level.

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

practice

Slide 23

ACTIVITY: ENLIGHTENER™ RESULTS

Have participants divide into teams of four. Each team will work on one mannequin head.

Instruct participants to section the hair into quadrants for four different Enlightener applications (one per quadrant):

– Enlightener™ + 10 volume Color Catalyst™

– Enlightener™ + 20 volume Color Catalyst™

– Enlightener™ + 30 volume Color Catalyst™

– Enlightener™ + 40 volume Color Catalyst™

Have participants mix and apply formulas to each quadrant and process for 20 minutes.

During processing, have participants return to their seats and continue teaching the class.

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Enlightenment™ Blonding

SAY

While our Enlightener™ applications are processing, let’s shift our focus to other Aveda Hair Color components that can help us achieve perfect blondes.

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

inform

Slide 24

Page 9

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

If you don’t need more than 5 levels of lift to achieve your level 9 or above, what is another option for ultimate lightness?

(Listen for: Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones)

ASK

How do you determine which Color Catalyst™ volume to use with Extra Lifting Creme?

(Listen for: the levels of lift)

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

What if you want to achieve 2–3 levels of lift for the lightest results with tonal control?

(Listen for: use 20 volume)

SAY

You could use Extra Lifting Creme with 20 volume and get brighter results than a 10N because it is essentially clear and contains no brown. You could also add in Pastel Tones for control.

Let’s talk about how you would do that.

Slide 25

SAY

Aveda has created formulas for achieving soft, standard and strong blonde results using Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones. Normally, a starting level does not dictate the measurement, but these recommendations are ideas that will help you understand how the tone can be refined using different measurements based on starting level. Write the starting levels next to the chart in your workbook as we review them.

Standard: use this measurement for refinement on starting levels 7 and 8

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

Strong: this would be ideal if your starting level is 6, which provides more control or enhancement

Soft: if you are starting at a lighter level, you will not need as much refinement, so use a soft formula on a starting level 8

Remember to adjust your Color Catalyst™ volume based on the levels of lift.

These are some ideas of why and how you would customize your blonding measurements.

ASK

Any there any questions on the recommended products for the lightest blonde results?

SAY

Let’s check on our Enlightener™ applications before we head to lunch.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Before rinsing and removal, ensure mannequins have reached the desired level of blondeness covered in Golden Rule #1 (lifted to a level 9–10 and an N.R.P. of yellow/pale yellow).

If the mannequins are ready, have them remove the color and apply a Botanical Therapy Repair Treatment to the hair before going to lunch.

If the mannequins are NOT ready, go to lunch and do the removal and Botanical Therapy Repair Treatment after lunch.

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

Slide 26

Page 10

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

ACTIVITY: ENLIGHTENER™ RESULTS CHECK-IN

After 20 minutes, have participants review their Enlightener™ results in each quadrant.

Debrief as a group by collecting observations about the different volumes of Color Catalyst™ used.

Emphasize that while the results all essentially look the same in the first 20–30 minutes of processing, the 10 volume will produce a clearer, even lifting while it works.

Make the point that the other volumes will help you go faster, but they will not necessarily produce the best, most beautiful blondes. As a result, they might spend more time reapplying to achieve a more even result.

When quadrants have lifted to the correct levels (9–10), have participants rinse to remove the hair color and apply a Botanical Therapy Repair Treatment. Have

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

participants follow along as you demonstrate the steps below:

– Rinse hair with comfortably hot water, shampoo with Color Conserve™ Shampoo, apply Color Conserve™ pHinish™ to balance pH level and rinse with cool water.

– Towel-dry the hair thoroughly. It is important to remove excess water from the hair to ensure maximum performance of the product.

– Pour 15 ml of the selected treatment product into a clean, dry spray bottle.

– Section the hair into quadrants, keeping the hair off the face.

– Taking ¼-inch subsections, spray the treatment evenly along the length of the hair, and comb to distribute, if necessary.

– Place the subsection between two fingers using a scissor-like motion, and slide the fingers along the length of the hair.

– Gather the entire subsection into the palm of your hand, and give a few extra sprays to the ends until they are thoroughly saturated. Gently squeeze to ensure saturation and penetration.

– Continue until the treatment has been applied to all quadrants. Then comb through all the hair to ensure even distribution.

Instruct participants to leave the treatment on the hair and return to their seats.

Remind them that in an actual service, they would allow the treatment to process at room temperature for 5 minutes and rinse the hair thoroughly (no shampoo or conditioner). Then style as desired.

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Extra Lifting Creme and Pastel Tones

ASK

Are there any questions about what we’ve learned so far?

SAY

Let’s take our lunch break. After lunch, we’ll learn and practice formulating the perfect blonde.

Slide 27

Take a 1-hour lunch break.

Ensure participants know when to return.

Play upbeat music when participants return from the lunch break.

Prepare anything you need for the afternoon portion of the class.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

inform

Slide 28

SAY

Welcome back from lunch!

IMPORTANT NOTE

If the Enlightener™ formulas processed over lunch, begin the afternoon by having participants remove the color and apply a Botanical Therapy Repair Treatment (see the previous section for steps). Process for 5 minutes, remove and analyze the results.

If participants applied their Botanical Therapy treatments before lunch, have them remove the treatment and analyze the results.

NOTE: Mannequin heads should be wet leading into the next activity.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

Page 10

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

Slide 29

SAY

Our next step is to pre-treat the hair with Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution, which is essential when blonding.

Let’s review the steps in your workbook, which show how to apply it as a leave-in treatment during a hair color service:

Leave-in Treatment During a Hair Color Service

Shampoo hair lightly with Aveda Hair Detoxifier Shampoo. NOTE: During an actual color service, they would use the detoxifying shampoo, but in class, they will apply it after the Botanical Therapy treatment on wet hair.

Spray 1 oz / 30 ml of Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution on the hair, and comb through to distribute evenly.

Dry into the hair. NOTE: During an actual color service, they would blow-dry it into the hair, but in class, it will air dry as you continue teaching.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

Apply hair color according to directions.

practice

SAY

Let’s practice this step on our mannequins.

ACTIVITY: APPLY DAMAGE REMEDY™ EQUALIZING SOLUTION

Have participants apply Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution to their mannequin heads and comb to distribute.

Allow the hair to air dry. Have participants return to their seats, and continue teaching the class.

SAY

Before we learn more about some favorite ways to master blonding, let’s talk about the Enlightener™ application we did earlier.

ASK

Did any of you notice uneven lifting, dark spots or patchiness in the lift?

Ask volunteers to share their results.

SAY

It could be due to the mannequin heads, but it is most likely related to the application.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

Slide 30

Page 11

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

This brings us to our third Golden Rule: if it’s wet, it’s working.

For an even, thorough application that stays wet, take small subsections (1/16”–1/18”). Smaller subsections stay wet, while wider subsections have a tendency to dry out and often require reapplication.

Slide 31

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Blonde Results and Formulas

SAY

Let’s review some additional tips for ensuring proper application. Fill in the blanks in your workbook as we go:

Regrowth should not be more than four weeks, or you will begin to see bands due to the heat zone at the scalp.

Click to reveal answer on the slide: Double process regrowth no more than ½ inch.

When dealing with such a small regrowth area, it can be hard to not overlap, which can cause breakage. If you overlap the first time, you might not see breakage. But if you continue to overlap, your guest will begin to experience breakage.

Click to reveal answer on the slide: Use a bottle application to avoid overlapping.

A helpful tip is to use a bottle for allover high-lift blonde applications. This will minimize overlapping on 4–6 weeks of new growth.

Slide 32

Page 12 Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

SAY

We don’t often have the opportunity to do Enlightener™ applications on natural (virgin) hair.

A favorite application for first-time, allover blondes is an alternative virgin application, which is shown in your workbook. Please take notes in your workbook as we review this blonding application.

Alternative Virgin Application

Apply an Enlightener™ formula on the new growth.

Apply a fresh mixture of the same formula with the next highest volume of Color Catalyst™

Process the recommended time for the higher Color Catalyst™ volume used

Let’s review some tips for when you do this kind of application.

Use the following formulas for high-lift blondes:

– Scalp Formula : use a lower volume of Color Catalyst™

– Ends Formula : use one volume higher of Color Catalyst™

Apply the scalp formula first, then the ends formula. This will accommodate for cold mid-lengths and ensure proper, even lift from scalp to ends.

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Slide 33

Page 11

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Let’s go back to our Applications Tips page to fill in a few more blonding tips:

Apply to the hairline last because the hair is more fragile in this area.

Click to reveal answer on the slide: Hairline is fragile! Apply last!

Sandwich ends in between foils to keep the temperature even and prevent product from drying out.

Click to reveal answer on the slide: Sandwich ends between foils to keep hair moist and process evenly.

If you are using Enlightener™ for ultimate blonding (as opposed to Extra Lifting Creme), add Enlightener™ Creme Booster into your formulas.

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Blonde Results and Formulas

ASK

Are there any questions?

SAY

Now let’s transition to talking about toning and base shifting.

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Toning

inform

ASK

What happens if your blonde result isn’t light enough? Will toning help you go lighter?

(Listen for: no)

SAY

This is different than refining N.R.P. In this case, we are talking about level. If we are not at the right level, any amount of toning will just make the color look darker—a darker yellow, a darker, drab color (for example, if we try to cover the yellow with a violet tone) or a color that just doesn’t look right.

Make sure you lift slightly beyond what you want the blond to look like visually. When you rinse white-colored product such as Enlightener™ or Extra Lifting Creme (without tone) formulas from yellow hair, the hair usually appears more yellow than you think it is.

Before rinsing, a good practice is to completely remove the hair color product from the strand or area you are lightening and spread the strand over a white towel so you can clearly see how yellow it really is.

There is nothing more important than this! Remember that going slightly lighter is better.

ASK

How many of you have removed product too early before?

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Toning

Slide 34

Page 13

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

This brings us to our fourth Golden Rule: with blondes, it is better to be slightly lighter than too dark because you can always drop the level back down or tone.

Another tip for shifting blondes to appear lighter or provide them with an “in between service” for full-head highlight and/or very blonde guests is something called a “base break,” “base shift” or “smudging.” This is when you shift the natural level up 1–2 levels at the new growth.

ASK

What other terms have you heard this technique called?

(Accept any answers.)

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Toning

Slide 35

Page 13

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Base shifting is not a highly technical application or service, but in areas where extreme blonding is a commodity, this practice is frequently done. We will review it today because it may be ideal for a guest who detests seeing any regrowth and is back in your chair for a full-head foil with less than a ½ inch of regrowth.

The most commonly used formula is 10N and 10 volume Color Catalyst™ applied with a bottle and processed for up to 20 minutes. This slightly shifts the level 6 base and makes the regrowth less apparent.

You can formulate different variations to neutralize the warmth. But essentially the two components you need are 10N and Color Catalyst™.

Introducing Universal ØN has a nice effect that creates a sheer result on lighter levels.

Because base shifting is not an exact science and designed to give you flexibility with regrowth, you can introduce this to guests as an option and customize your formula using

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10N, Universal ØN and 10–30 volumes of Color Catalyst™.

A final tip: for levels 6 and above, the lighter the natural level, the lower developer and more Universal ØN you can use. Lower developer exposes less N.R.P., giving less warm reflection, while Universal ØN reduces lifting power.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Base shifting is not recommended for double process blondes due to the banding that this technique creates. It should only be done on heavy foil applications to reduce the dark line of regrowth between highlight services.

ASK

Are there any questions about base shifting?

SAY

You apply a base shift formula with a bottle application just like an allover color. You will need to determine the price for this service in your salon, as the variations can be a partial-head application or just on areas that are visible to the guest.

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Toning

Slide 36

SAY

Let’s think back to our list of Blonding Bloopers. One of the bloopers we identified was too light results. This could occur on the day of the service or over time.

ASK

What are some ways you have addressed that?

(Listen for: toning, glossing, color balancing and low lighting)

How many of you tone your blondes after using Enlightener™?

SAY

Click to reveal answers on the slide.

Colorists often tone blondes created with Enlightener™ to put more controlled tone back into the hair. Or if you lift it very light, you can tone the hair and put the exact shade of gold or platinum back in.

Let’s learn more about toning.

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Toning

Slide 37

ASK

Based on what we’ve learned today, why is toning important?

(Listen for: refines the tone or the N.R.P.)

SAY

Whether we are enhancing, neutralizing or refining the remaining tone, there are formulas that can help you create just about any shade of blonde.

ASK

When would you not tone?

(Listen for: if the color is the right tone)

SAY

Now let’s talk about the ideal way to get the best and longest-lasting toning results and try some new toning formulas on our mannequins and swatches.

The difference between how color will look from guest to guest comes down to how you apply it and the treatments you do to prepare the hair.

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Toning

Slide 38

Page 14

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

This brings us to Golden Rule #5: apply toning formulas to pre-treated, dry hair.

We already talked about Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution, which should be applied to wet hair and dried into the hair before applying the toner. This pre-treatment will provide the greatest color longevity and tonal result.

Briefly review the pre-treatment steps for Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution.

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Toning

Slide 39

SAY

You can tone with both Full Spectrum™ Permanent and Deposit-Only Color Treatment—so which should you use? The answer essentially comes down to condition of the hair and the N.R.P.

Slide 40

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SAY

Let’s talk about when and why you would tone with Full Spectrum™ Permanent.

WHY/WHEN

Full Spectrum™ Permanent should be used only on allover blondes.

ASK

Does anyone know why?

(Listen for: because permanent color will lighten the natural level if you apply over highlights)

SAY

On allover blondes, Full Spectrum™ Permanent provides long-lasting results that are more true to level and tone.

It also has the ability to remove remaining warmth if you still have a strong yellow tone and need more strength in the formula. Use no higher than 20 volume. The lower the volume, the more the deposit (darker).

If you feel like you want the muscle of permanent color but are concerned about the integrity of the hair, you can add Universal ØN to the formula, which will dilute the power of the permanent dye. Aveda recommends adding Universal ØN in equal parts.

NOTE: Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment only deposits, so you can only go darker and possibly uneven if there are porosity issues.

WHAT

Use 10N and 20 volume Color Catalyst™ as a standard to create cool platinum results on allover blondes prelightened to pale yellow.

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Additional Pure Tone is not needed at this level, as cooler tones can appear darker and can deposit unevenly on porous hair.

Sometimes a Pure Tone will give you that extra bit of insurance on refining the yellow N.R.P. In this case, use small increments of V/B, and remember that B/B combined with yellow will create green.

Slide 41

SAY

If your guest is not an allover blonde or prefers demi-permanent color, Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment is your best option for toning because it gives you the most flexibility, shine and condition.

Your options include:

Clear toning formula with Universal ØN

Toning with levels to refine depth

Toning with Pure Tones to add control

Earlier we talked about our first Golden Rule, which was lifting to a level 9 or higher to prevent brassy/orange tones. If your guest desires a lower level, toning can help you drop back down to the correct level (for example, a level 8 without orange).

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Toning

Slide 42

SAY

The Color Balancing Guide is a valuable tool that can help you determine the correct measurements of bases and color components to create the results you want to see. The best Deposit-Only Color Treatment formula options for toning would be:

Tonal gloss

Natural tonal gloss

Page 14

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Look at the N.R.P. chart and where you may be thinking of taking your guest. If they are too light, you need to first identify the N.R.P. at the level you desire.

ASK

For most glossing/toning/color balancing formulas, what

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would the desired level be?

(Listen for: levels 8 or 9)

SAY

This is important because if you are going more than two levels darker when toning, you will need to precolor the hair first.

When glossing or toning at a light level and wanting to put tone back in, we would use the Color Balancing Guide and perform a tonal gloss or natural tonal gloss. If you look along the right hand side of the chart for natural tonal gloss, it does not describe your exact Pure Tone measurement. Whether you use a level or not, it would always be the standard measurement for the level.

ASK

Are there any questions about using Full Spectrum™ Permanent vs. Deposit-Only Color Treatment?

Think back to the blonde category brainstorm and the flipcharts we created earlier. What were some of the terms you came up with to describe different types of blondes?

(Listen for: buttery, creamy, golden, honey, etc.)

SAY

Now I want you to visualize what those tones might look like in a formula. We’re going to do a swatching activity to help us visualize some favorite formulas.

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Toning

Slide 43

Hand out a Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Toning Formulas swatchboard to each participant.

practice

Slide 44

Page 15

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Toning

ACTIVITY: TONING PRACTICE ON SWATCHES

Divide the participants into four groups.

Assign the first three groups one of the formulas on the slide and have the last group select a formula of their choice from the swatchboard. Remind participants that all formulas will use Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment components.

– Platinum

40 g ØN

3 g Light V/B

– Brazilian Gold

40 g 10N

4 g Dark Y/O

– Mushroom Beige

40 g 9N

4 g Light V/B

2 g Dark R/V

– Team Choice (choose from swatchboard)

Have groups apply their assigned formulas to their swatches and process. Make sure each group applies enough swatches so everyone in the group (up to 15) can take them home.

When all swatches have been colored, set a timer for 20 minutes and resume teaching.

Encourage participants to try all the formulas on the swatchboards back at their salons.

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Toning

inform

SAY

While our swatches process, let’s talk about low lighting, which is another solution the too-light blonde blooper.

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Low Lighting

inform

Page 16

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

ASK

What are some factors to consider when low lighting?

(Listen for: not going too dark or too drab, including Pure Tones to create N.R.P. in hair that has little to no warmth reflection)

Slide 45

Page 17

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Low Lighting

SAY

When mixing a formula for low lighting in one bowl, we need to include the following:

Level: level 7 is a good level to target when applying low lights on guests at level 10.

Tone (N.R.P. for level): warm low lights are always the best place to start. If your low light is too neutral, it can appear dark, drab and ashy. Blondes like light and bright tones, so it is best to start with a warm formula (if this is the first time you are applying low lights on your guest).

Color Catalyst™: 10 volume is recommended.

At a level 7, you have 8 grams of tone to work with. You can combine Pure Tones to create a perfect tone for your low light. Here are some ideas:

For a slightly warm, reflective result:

– 40 g 7N

– 6 g Dark Y/O

– 2 g Light N/N

ASK

Why do you think this will work?

(Listen for: stronger warm reflection than Light Y/O and more brown in the formula because of Light N/N)

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Low Lighting

Slide 46

SAY

Keep in mind this is just a starting point and a guide. For a more neutral/ash result, add 2 grams of Light V/B into the mixture for a total measurement of 10 grams at a level 7.

There are many possibilities and variations to low lighting. For example, adding Universal ØN to your formula will dilute the deposit.

Let’s consider the following formula:

20 g 7N

20 g Universal ØN

3 g Light Y/O

2 g Light O/R

3 g Light V/B

Using light Pure Tones and Universal ØN will create a sheer, neutral low light. Y/O plus V/B creates brown and O/R provides warmth. Take note this uses less pigment than the previous low light example.

Now let’s talk about Color Catalyst™, which we already learned is 10 volume for low lighting as opposed to using 5 volume and/or Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment components.

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Low Lighting

ASK

Why would you use 10 volume as opposed to 5 volume?

(Listen for: 5 volume could over-deposit and go too dark, DOCT is demi-permanent will not last as long as Permanent)

If you want more conservative results, which component will ensure that it will not go too dark?

(Listen for: Universal ØN)

SAY

When color balancing, glossing or toning, remember that Deposit-Only Color Treatment is still the best if you have overly sensitized hair and want shine or a sheer, translucent effect.

Slide 47

Page 18

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

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Low Lighting

SAY

It is a good idea to do a low light test strand when a guest is in the salon so you can create a plan for the next visit. Introduce the concept of transitioning some richness back into the hair on their next visit and test some formulas.

Try 1–2 variations in an inconspicuous area to see what looks best. Then make a note of the formula, and plant the seed with your guest for the next visit.

Let’s check in on our swatching formulas and rinse them out.

ACTIVITY: RINSE AND DRY TONING SWATCHES

Have participants rinse and remove the toning formulas from their swatches.

Instruct them to lay the swatches out to air dry and return to seats.

SAY

We’ll analyze the swatch results a bit later. Right now, we’re going to try some of the low light formulas we just learned on our mannequins.

Let’s start with a consistent placement technique so we can easily compare results with fewer variables.

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Low Lighting

Slide 48

Page 18

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

This brings us to our final Golden Rule: when low lighting, a strong effect is best.

Using fine-weave foils and small sections will leave a diffused low light effect and give an overall darker look rather than a bolder show of color. By picking up bigger pieces and creating a stronger effect, the low light will show more clearly and not cause the overall look to appear darker.

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Low Lighting

Slide 49

SAY

I’m going to demonstrate how to section for a half-head foil. You’ll have an opportunity to recreate this sectioning on your own, so right now, I just want you to just observe.

Page 19

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

ACTIVITY: LOW LIGHT SECTIONING DEMONSTRATION

Have participants gather around you and demonstrate the following sectioning:

– Create a circle on the top of the head, around the point of distribution, which is 3 inches wide (about the width of the foil when folded).

– Create a fringe section from the point of recession to where the circle starts.

– Section the sides from the back of the ear to the top of the head at the circle.

– Create a diagonal, bricklay pattern in the fringe and on the sides.

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– Pivot around the point of distribution on the top of the head.

Ask if there are any questions, and coach as needed.

SAY

Now it’s your turn to practice.

practice

Slide 50

ACTIVITY: LOW LIGHT PRACTICE

Divide the participants into four groups.

Assign the previous low light formulas to two groups:

– Low Light Formula 1

20 g 7N

20 g Universal ØN

3 g Light Y/O

2 g Light O/R

3 g Light V/B

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– Low Light Formula 2

40 g 7N

6 g Dark Y/O

2 g Light N/N

Instruct the two remaining groups to create their own low light formulas using the guidelines they’ve learned in class. Be sure to check their formulas before they perform the application, and coach as needed.

Assign each participant roles within their group for the mannequin head application.

– Role 1: section the head

– Role 2: perform the application on the sides

– Role 3: perform the application on the fringe

– Role 4: perform the application on the circular area

Once the application is complete, have participants set their timer and process for 20 minutes (from the last section).

Instruct them to organize the swatches from the previous activity for their group.

Have all participants rotate to each toning swatch station, and tape the swatch to the appropriate square/formula in their workbooks.

When low light processing is complete, have participants rinse, remove and treat the hair with Botanical Therapy Repair Treatments and dry the hair.

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IMPORTANT NOTE

If you need to cut time, omit the Botanical Therapy step from the previous activity.

SAY

Great job! Let’s review our results as a group and end the day with some practical applications and action plans.

Transition to Blonde Results and Conclusion

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

Goal

The purpose and goal of this module is to analyze the participants’ blonde results and conclude the class.

Time

1 Hour

Overview

Debrief results, identify blonde breakthroughs, review the Golden Rules and create action plans.

Materials Needed

See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide.

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

extend

Slide 51

ACTIVITY: DEBRIEF LOW LIGHT RESULTS

Debrief the results of the low light activity:

– What do you like about the results?

– How would you change the formula or your application to improve the results?

Discuss observations and adjustments. Clarify any questions.

While participants may share creative formulas to achieve different low light outcomes, remind them that a strand test is the best way to ensure there are no surprises in their chair.

ASK

What is the first low light formula that you want to try on a guest?

Have a few participants share.

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

refine

Slide 52

Page 20

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Take a moment to look over your swatches and think about your low lighting practice. Review your materials—especially your Golden Rules—and try to identify your top blonding breakthroughs today.

ASK

What was your top blonding breakthrough, and how will it change the way you do your next blonde?

(Accept any answers.)

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

perform

ASK

What discoveries and new things are you most excited about?

What actions will you take when you return to the salon?

(Accept any answers.)

SAY

In your workbook, complete the sentence on the bottom of page 20 that reads, “On my next blonde, I will…”

If time allows, have a few participants share their answers.

IMPORTANT NOTE

Review the expectations flipchart you created at the beginning of class, and make sure everyone’s expectations were met.

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

Slide 53

Page 21

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

I hope you are excited about all the concepts you learned today and feel more confident in your blonding skills.

To close the day, let’s rewrite the six Golden Rules of blonding in your workbooks so we remember them.

Click to reveal each rule on the slide:

Golden Rule #1: To avoid brassy, too warm blondes, lift to a level 9 or higher.

Golden Rule #2: Pick the right products for the job.

Golden Rule #3: If it’s wet, it’s working.

Golden Rule #4: With blondes, it is better to be slightly lighter than too dark because you can always drop the level back down or tone.

Golden Rule #5: Apply toning formulas to pre-treated, dry hair.

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

Golden Rule #6: When low lighting, a strong effect is best.

Slide 54

SAY

Great job, everyone. Now that you’ve completed this class, you should be able to:

Apply the Golden Rules of blonding to create consistently beautiful blondes

Maximize your blonde results by utilizing the Full Spectrum™ Hair Color components

Formulate a variety of blonde shades with confidence

Consult and connect with guests to create the perfect blonde

ASK

Are there any final questions?

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Slide 55

Page 23

Direct learners to the Participant Workbook.

SAY

Thank you for attending Pure Blonding! You’ll find your certificate of completion in your workbook.

Before you go, please take a moment to complete a quick online evaluation of this course.

Slide 56

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Blonde Results and Conclusion

IMPORTANT NOTE

Thank the participants in advance for their feedback. Explain that the goal of Aveda Global Education is to provide world-class education experiences, and this is only possible by receiving feedback from participants just like them.

Show the online evaluation video (available on Aveda PurePro™), or verbally guide participants through the online evaluation process outlined below:

– Explain that this course was assigned a specific Course ID number that is written on the slide.

– Instruct the participants to scan the QR code with their mobile phones or type avedasurvey.com into their web browsers to access the evaluation form.

– Have them enter the Course ID number, and complete the evaluation before they leave.

After the participants have completed their online evaluations, sign and date the course certificates in each participant’s workbook. Encourage them to cut out their certificate and display it with pride.