puppy raising manual

Puppy Raising Manual Produced by the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs

for the Blind exclusively for puppy raising volunteers

2008 Guide Dogs for the Blind All rights reserved

The information in this manual may not be reproduced without written permission

from the Puppy Raising Department of Guide Dogs for the Blind. This manual is the property of Guide Dogs for the Blind.

DEDICATION We dedicate this manual to the remarkable individuals and families who open their homes and give their hearts, their time, and their dedication to the puppies in their care. Due to your generosity, students at GDB are given an amazing gift: a partner who allows them enhanced mobility and access, as well as a loyal and loving companion. We greatly appreciate your being our ambassadors with the public and for spreading the Guide Dog message every day. Thank you also to those of you who work with us performing many other tasks such as public speaking, outreach to students, and fundraising. It would be impossible to complete our mission without you, and on behalf of all those we serve, you have our eternal gratitude. With deepest appreciation,

Nancy E. S. Gardner President & Chief Executive Officer

11/2007

FORWARD Your puppy raising mission includes nurturing and socializing a puppy to become a guide, a prized member of our breeding stock or a beloved pet. Our organizational mission is dependent upon the informed, positive information that you supply your community about dog care, our puppy raising program and our graduate services. Thank you for your many contributions. Each puppy is different and has his very own personality and charm. Your daily effort and love combined with the support and training of our expert staff helps to develop your puppy to his highest potential. We are here to provide information, training and support. With this manual, the training provided by your club leader, the supervision and support of your puppy raising advisor, and the assistance of the Puppy Raising staff, you will have the tools necessary to fulfill this very special community service project. We appreciate your commitment to help us create lifelong partnerships. We are proud to have you as members of the Guide Dog Family.

Brent Ruppel Director of Community Operations

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Introduction 1-1 Mission

1-2 History The Guide Dog family What is expected of you

1-3 Our dogs The breeding program

Life in the kennels Veterinary care

1-4 Raiser support and opportunities

2. Preparing for puppy raising 2-1 Support Getting Started Introducing your team Solving problems 2-2 Creating a safe, secure environment Suggested first aid kit supplies Poisons 2-3 Outdoor confinement and housing Fence requirements 2-4 Equipment (and how to use it) The crate The ex-pen The tie-down The dragline The leash and collar The headcollar The chain training collar 2-5 Your puppys arrival Prepare your home On the trip home At your home 2-6 What it means to raise a Guide Dog puppy 2-7 Dos and donts of puppy raising 2-8 Puppy raising etiquette

3. Caring for your puppy 3-1 Feeding

Guidelines to promoting good eating habits and protecting health

Changing your puppys food Tips to remember when feeding your puppy Keeping your puppy fit and healthy Body Score and Conditioning Systems

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3-2 Relieving Teach your puppy to relieve on-leash, on command 3-3 Grooming Brush your puppy every day Regular paw care is important Ear cleaning can prevent ear infections Eyes may need to be cleaned also Clean your puppys teeth every week Bathing your pup 3-4 Exercise and play

Teach your puppy to play interactively with you (without using a toy) Controlling play with your puppy Tug game procedures Hide-and-seek game procedures

3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles Guide Dogs public access for puppies Transportation of program and career change dogs Traveling with and without your puppy Lost puppy procedures 4. Health care 4-1 Working with veterinarians Payment of veterinary expenses The physical characteristics of a dog 4-2 Emergencies 4-3 Vaccinations and deworming 4-4 Females in season 4-5 Spay/neuter and hernias 4-6 Fleas, ticks and parasites

Flea and tick control Heartworm prevention

5. Training principles 5-1 Philosophy How to be an effective teacher Give effective commands Pattern desired behaviors How a dog learns 5-2 Rewards Reward and correct consistently Approved rewards 5-3 Corrections

How and when to correct your puppy How to do a leash and collar correction Unacceptable corrections 5-4 Know about no


6. Training techniques 6-1 Important behaviors Behaviors to report to your leader Essential behaviors Good house manners 6-2 Socialization 6-3 Commands

Preparing your puppy to learn commands Training commands for raisers

7. What's next for your puppy 7-1 Saying goodbye 7-2 When your puppy returns to Guide Dogs 7-3 Training Pattern training Guide Dog training phases 7-4 In class 7-5 Graduation Sponsored teams In-home training procedures Graduation for breeding stock 7-6 After graduation 7-7 How Guide Dogs places the puppies you raise

8. Policies, forms and resources Puppy raising policy

Basic requirements of puppy raisers Keeping puppies on-leash Puppy toy and play policies Puppy raising nutritional policy Boarding female dogs in-season

Reasons for placing or retaining a puppy in the home Helpful resources for puppy raisers

Fun things about my puppy form Guide Dog graduation news release Recall for training phase descriptions


1-1 OUR MISSION

Guide Dogs for the Blind provides enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through partnership with dogs whose unique skills are developed and nurtured by dedicated volunteers and a professional staff.

Established in 1942, Guide Dogs for the Blind continues its dedication to quality student training services and extensive follow-up support for graduates. Our programs are made possible through the teamwork of staff, volunteers and generous donors. Services are provided to students from the United States and Canada at no cost to them.

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1-2 HISTORY It all began with a dream...the dream of creating the first guide dog training school on the West Coast. It was a dream shared by Lois Merrihew and Don Donaldson, who volunteered their efforts along with many others. They recognized the need to help wounded servicemen who would return from World War II without their sight. They believed in the potential of dogs to serve as guides for the blind. The school was incorporated in 1942 and began training dogs and instructing students in a rented home in Los Gatos, California, south of San Jose. A German Shepherd named Blondie was one of the first dogs trained. Blondie had been rescued from a Pasadena dog pound. She was later paired with Sgt. Leonard Foulk, the first serviceman to graduate from the new school. In 1947, the school was moved to its present 11-acre campus in San Rafael, California, 20 miles north of San Francisco. In 1995, our other campus opened in Boring, Oregon, 25 miles east of Portland on 27 acres. Guide Dogs for the Blind has graduated close to 10,000 teams over the past 60 years.

The Guide Dog family Puppy raisers It takes a lot of people to produce a successful Guide Dog team. We'd like to start by introducing you to other members of the Guide Dog family. You are now among 1,400 raisers who donate their time and effort in the care and socialization of our puppies. Guide Dog puppy raisers are youths, adults, and youths affiliated with the 4-H program. Guide Dogs for the Blind places puppies with raisers living in eight Western states: California, Oregon, Washington, Arizona, Nevada, Idaho, Utah and Colorado. Puppy raising leaders All puppy raisers are members of a puppy raising club. These clubs are guided by a leader; some clubs have several leaders. These dedicated volunteers hold regular club meetings to teach puppy raisers how to raise, care for and train their new puppies. Each leader has been trained by a Guide Dogs staff member. Leaders in clubs affiliated with the 4-H program have also received training and certification through their state 4-H office. All leaders are issued a Leaders Manual, which contains guidelines and instructions specifically for club leaders. The Puppy Raising Department Raisers and leaders also work closely with members of the Puppy Raising Department at Guide Dogs for the Blind. A Community Field Representative is assigned to your area. Each CFRs territory includes 100 or more puppy raisers and up to 50 leaders and may encompass several states. CFRs provide hands-on training, advice and support to leaders and raisers in their territories to improve their understanding of socialization and training standards required by Guide Dogs for the Blind. They attend many field days and club meetings.

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They also evaluate puppies, either at an evaluation site, in the home, at a Guide Dog facility or in homes other than the raisers. In addition, CFRs are responsible for helping in the recruitment of new leaders and raisers. An important part of their job is to provide a better understanding of the puppy raising program and Guide Dogs for the Blind. The office staff at the California campus is responsible for: Coordinating the naming of the puppies Assigning puppies to new raisers Issuing puppy raising supplies Scheduling puppy deliveries (air and ground) and local pick ups Scheduling the recall dates for dogs returning to the Oregon or California campus to

begin their formal training Electronic communications with the puppy raising community, including Leader

Link and E-Bark. Maintaining the Puppy Raising section of our website: www.guidedogs.com/forms Community Connection, the electronic newsletter volunteers and friends of Guide

Dogs Many department members also spend a great deal of time on the road traveling through the eight states where Guide Dog puppies are placed. Other Guide Dog staff Other members of the Guide Dog family are also involved in your puppys life. The Training Department staff are the ones who will eventually shape your pup into a professional Guide Dog. Our veterinarians and their assistants help keep the dogs and pups in the best of health. The Breeding and Kennel Department staff is responsible for the whelping and early care of the pups. There are many other staff and volunteers who work diligently toward a common goal of producing the finest dogs, training and services in the country. What is expected of you Values: As a puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, we ask that you accept the values we share and that these values will be reflected in your actions. I am kind toward people towards people and animals and demonstrate respect for

their dignity and well-being. I am inclusive and sensitive to all, regardless of disability, culture or ethnicity. I am open to innovation and change. I am accountable for my actions and our resources. I value teamwork and good communications. I help to create a supporting and trusting work environment. I am honest and fair and act with integrity. I balance professionalism with humor. I continually work towards furthering the GDB mission.


Code of conduct We also ask that you follow our code of conduct as it applies to raisers. All employees, volunteers and students in training at Guide Dogs for the Blind follow this code. Purpose Employees, volunteers and students are expected to observe certain standards of performance and conduct to ensure that Guide Dogs mission and work is carried out in a safe and orderly way and to ensure that we maintain high ethical standards throughout our organization. Standards of conduct Our campuses and facilities are public places. Employees, volunteers and students are expected to conduct themselves as they would in any public area. Conduct which is not appropriate in public or which disrupts the safe and orderly operation of our business is considered inappropriate. Conduct that is unsafe, unethical or illegal will not be permitted. Types of conduct that could constitute grounds for immediate dismissal include: physical violence; illegal acts such as theft, use or possession of illegal drugs or weapons; sexual activity; and inhumane treatment of a dog. The following are examples of the kinds of misconduct that will lead to disciplinary action, up to and including dismissal: Excessive absences or tardiness Harassment in any form Animal abuse or neglect Falsification of records or other documents Possession or use of illegal drugs or controlled substances Theft, destruction or abuse of Guide Dogs' property or the property of others Possession of weapons, firearms, or other potentially dangerous weapons or materials

on Guide Dogs property Involvement in or encouragement of illegal activities Acts of physical violence, or acts involving threats, intimidation or coercion Repeated lack of cooperation or courtesy in working with others, or failure to perform

reasonable duties assigned Unauthorized access to computer files or inappropriate use of computer networks Disclosing or misusing private, proprietary or confidential information about Guide

Dogs Unethical business practices or conflicts of interest Undermining or subverting business decisions, unless they are reasonably believed to

be illegal or unethical Failure to adhere to other policies and procedures at Guide Dogs for the Blind. The above list is not all-inclusive. We ask that everyone conduct themselves with reasonable and proper consideration for the welfare and rights of other employees, volunteers and students and for the best interests of this organization. Your leaders are provided with more detailed guidelines for puppy raising volunteers through the Leader Manual. Your leader is responsible for passing all appropriate information on to you. Please consult with your leader for additional information.


1-3 OUR DOGS Guide Dog breeds Guide Dogs for the Blind uses Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and crosses between Labs and Goldens as guides. Selection of breeding stock The finest dogs are chosen for our breeding program. They have been carefully selected for the unique characteristics that are required to produce successful working guides. Only those dogs that have met the organization's highest physical and temperamental standards are included in the breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind. Puppies are whelped from our breeding stock and cared for by professional kennel staff. Our teams of veterinarians provide the finest care for our puppies and dogs through all stages of their development. The breeding program The breeding program at Guide Dogs for the Blind was established in the late 1940s. Currently, the breeding colony consists of purebred Labrador Retrievers (black and yellow) and Golden Retrievers. Our Labrador Retrievers have historically enjoyed the greatest success as working guides and therefore, represent the majority of dogs we produce. Since 1994, a fourth variety has been introduced: the Labrador Retriever/Golden Retriever cross. This fourth variety has proven to be a highly successful addition to our program. The Guide Dog breeding program produces 95 percent of the puppies necessary to support both of our training facilities. In recent years, Guide Dogs has worked closely and cooperatively with other dog guide and service organizations in order to establish their breeding programs. Through these relationships, new blood lines have been introduced into our breeding colony. These new lines have allowed Guide Dogs to improve the qualities in our dogs required to produce successful working guides. The selection of our breeding stock is done by our breeding manager together with input from members of our Training and Veterinary Departments. When dogs begin their formal guide work training, they undergo a complete physical examination that includes hip x-rays and eye examinations. In addition, if an individual dog is being considered as a potential breeder, the breeding manager reviews the dog and its littermates as to their health, temperament and trainability. Once a dog is added to the breeding program, it is placed by a Guide Dog staff member into a carefully screened custodial home. Our breeding stock dogs enjoy life as pets in the custodial homes of loving families who live within a 50-mile radius of the California campus. Raisers who become breeder keepers of the dog they raised may live within 75 miles of the California campus.

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Approximately 50 new breeders are added to the breeding program annually. Of these, 75 percent are female. Brood bitches whelp and raise their litters in the kennel facilities at Guide Dogs. Broods are retired from the breeding program prior to age 7. Stud dogs are used for breeding more frequently and are retired due to age or when their production does not meet the colony standards. Guide Dogs benefits from the services of consulting specialists in the areas of canine ophthalmology and cardiology, and skilled staff who track each dog via a comprehensive computer system from birth to retirement. Life in the kennels The Kennel Department is responsible for the care of all dogs that are not in training, which includes: puppies, the older puppies that have been returned from their puppy raising homes but have not yet begun training, the active and retired breeding stock, the females and their newborn puppies, and career change dogs awaiting placement. The dogs and puppies are under the supervision of our professional staff 24 hours a day. This round-the-clock care allows for the monitoring of all births as they occur, care and feeding of newborn puppies, efficient administration of medications and veterinary care, and careful observation of dogs recovering from surgery. When a female breeding stock dog comes into season, the Kennel Department oversees her breeding with a stud dog or assists with artificial insemination. They work closely with the Breeding Department and the Veterinary Clinic to determine proper timing to ensure success. The gestation period of the female is 63 days. She is brought to the whelping kennel five days before the official due date of her puppies. To prepare for whelping, she is put in a stall with a plastic wading pool lined with newspapers. The stall is warmed with radiant heating coils through the floor. The stall has a closed circuit camera allowing monitoring from the kennel kitchen during normal hours and from the on-campus studio apartment after hours. A sign that the time is near is when the female starts to "nest" - she will tear the newspapers into small pieces and settle into the pool. During birth, the kennel staff assists when needed. This assistance may involve resuscitating newborn puppies, clamping bleeding umbilical cords, and feeding females tired from a long whelp.

The newborn puppies are weighed daily for the first five days to ensure they are gaining weight. If there is a puppy whose growth is lagging, the pup may be bottle-fed. Nursing mother's milk is examined for discoloration and tested to ensure it contains the appropriate nutrients and is free of infections. If a mother has more puppies than she can handle, the pups may be transferred to another mother who has whelped in the past 24-36 hours. If no such dog is available, the puppies will be bottle-fed. The puppies spend their first three weeks in the wading pool with their mother to nurse. At 3 weeks of age, the wading pool is taken away and they are put on the floor on shredded newspaper. At this time they start eating solid food. The puppies also start


getting daily socialization with our volunteer Toddler Puppy Socializers. They are exposed to new people, toys of different textures, as well as new and interesting scents.

At 6 weeks of age the puppies are brought to the puppy kennel. It then takes another 10 days to 2 weeks until the mother's milk has completely dried up and she can return home to her custodial family. While they are in puppy kennel, the pups share stalls with their littermates. Each puppy in a litter is identified by the mother's name, the shaved area on its coat, and a tattooed number in both ears. This number is the same as the one eventually placed on its collar when it leaves the kennel. All puppies in a litter have names that start with the same letter of the alphabet. The puppies are given names taken from a list provided by raisers, the keeper of the dam or other sources. The puppy kennel is also the place where the puppies first experience the outside world. Six days per week, they are socialized and walked on campus by volunteer Puppy Socializers. From age 6 weeks until they leave for their new homes, the puppies begin learning many new skills. Each puppy is introduced to walking on a leash, going up and down stairs, as well as crate and surface exposure. Puppies also interact in a group play session to experience socialization with other pups, as well as playing on various play structures. Daily handling includes body massages and beginning exposure to mouth, tail and paw handling. Puppies are also discouraged from chewing on inappropriate objects, such as hands, clothing and leashes. When the puppies are about 8 weeks old, they are ready to be placed with their raiser families. In the receiving kennel there is a mix of older puppies returned by their raisers for training, active and retired breeding stock and career change dogs. Reasons for their stay include: veterinary care, boarding, temperament evaluation, breeding, training, or waiting for placement. In the kennel kitchen, the staff mixes the food for all the dogs under their care as well as for all of the dogs in training. Each dog is assigned an amount of food, and this amount is weighed out individually. As a rule, they are fed a high-quality dry food that has been softened with warm water. The exceptions are those with increased nutritional needs, such as females who are about to whelp or are nursing.

Veterinary care The Veterinary Clinics at Guide Dogs' two campuses would be the envy of most veterinarians in private practice with their hydraulic lift examining tables, scales and modern surgery rooms. Everything is kept immaculately clean. It is obvious to visitors that Guide Dogs places great stock in the care of its puppies and dogs. Full-time veterinarians and a staff of technicians are supported by outside specialists whenever needed, as well as volunteers. Veterinarians assist in whelpings by performing caesarian sections if needed. When puppies are 3 weeks old, they are dewormed and given nasal drops to protect them from developing kennel cough. At 5-6 weeks, they begin receiving a series of vaccinations for parvo and other diseases. Their ears are tattooed with an identification number they will carry throughout their lives. In the rare


event that one of our dogs becomes lost or stolen, the tattoo will alert any veterinarian or rescue organization to the fact that the dog is from Guide Dogs. At 8 weeks, the pups are ready to be placed with raisers and will continue receiving vaccinations and care from veterinarians in their local areas. When the pups return to the campus for formal training at 12-18 months, their hips and joints are x-rayed, their eyes and hearts checked, and they are given complete physical exams including vaccinations and heartworm tests. Our veterinarians spay or neuter those pups that haven't already had the procedure and are not being considered for breeding. Prior to being assigned to their blind partners, the young dogs are given a pre-class physical. During class, veterinarians will meet with the students and provide medical histories on their individual dogs as well as vaccination updates. Breeding stock, dogs in training and foster care and some working guides are cared for by our clinic staff. Staff also provide consultations with graduates and outside veterinarians in the care of our puppies and guides. Veterinary staff is on-call when emergency care is needed. They do a variety of procedures including teeth cleaning and extractions. Using endoscopic cameras inside the dog's body they can retrieve foreign objects, remove tumors or foxtails, and help remedy chronic conditions such as coughing, sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea. Ultrasound equipment is used to monitor the status of in-utero puppies, or to check a dog's heart and other organs. EKGs and surgical procedures are part of the arsenal used by our veterinarians to combat any number of conditions or diseases. How puppies are chosen for placement with raisers: Members of the Puppy Raising Department generally place Guide Dog puppies on a first-come, first-serve basis. Placement by special request from raisers is discouraged because doing so may leave puppies of "less desired" colors, breeds or sexes unplaced during critical developmental stages. Puppies of a certain breed or sex may occasionally be placed with a specific raiser (due to the raiser's experience, etc.) at the leader's or CFR's recommendation.


1-4 RAISER SUPPORT AND OPPORTUNITIES Scholarships for youth raisers Guide Dogs for the Blind has funded scholarships for our youth puppy raisers for many years. We are pleased to offer this opportunity: to provide an incentive for further education to encourage the development of skills that will contribute to a more productive life to provide recognition of commendable work and accomplishment in Guide Dog

puppy raising Guide Dogs recognizes that the growth and success of its mission has been made possible by the dedication and gracious donation of time, energy and heart of the youth in the western states. Our scholarship application packets are distributed through puppy raising club leaders annually in January. Applicants must be a senior in high school, a previous (or current) puppy raiser for Guide Dogs for the Blind, and be pursuing an education in any field of study at an accredited college, university, technical or trade school. The Selection Committee meets to review finalists and awards are announced by July 1st. Internships Another special opportunity for youth is our internship program. Each summer, youth contribute both to the Guide Dogs program and to their own personal, educational, and career development by interning at the California campus. An internship generally runs for two weeks. Interns are assigned to a specific department, which could be the Puppy Raising, Dog Placement, Veterinary Clinic, Public Information or any department at Guide Dogs. Guide Dogs attempts to assign interns from outside the area to live in the homes of staff members or other volunteers during their internships. For more information on internships at our California campus, please contact the Volunteer Department at (800) 295-4050. Career opportunities Many of our raisers have gone on to become employees at Guide Dogs for the Blind. We encourage all of our puppy raising volunteers to consider a meaningful career in the Training Department or other departments at Guide Dogs. If you like dogs, enjoy working with people, and want a career that makes a difference, the Training Department could be the place for you (or someone you know)! Work with a team of professional instructors who help provide enhanced mobility to qualified individuals through a partnership with trained dogs. Applicants must have at least a high school diploma. Additional educations in fields such as life sciences, psychology, sociology, education, animal behavior, or veterinary technician program are highly desirable. Hands-on experience with dogs is often extremely valuable, but applicants without direct dog training experiences will also be considered. Experience in animal related work that is deemed helpful includes military or law enforcement K-9 handling, kennel or humane society work, horse training and/or professional riding, zoo animal or marine mammal work, dog training and veterinary or grooming facility work, and puppy raising. (Applications for the apprentice instructor and licensed instructor positions will also be accepted, but please note that these positions require extensive dog handling experience.)

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Instructor Assistants - Instructor assistants work to promote good canine behavior and enrich the kennel experiences for our dogs. They help to ease the dogs transitions from their puppy raising homes to life in our kennels during their formal guidework training. This entry-level program can lead toward a career as a professional guide dog instructor. Qualified IAs may be accepted to our three-year apprenticeship course. Apprentice Instructors - Apprentice instructors receive in-depth education about disorders affecting sight and adaptive mobility techniques. They also get hands-on Guide Dog training experience, as well as opportunities to work directly with our students who are blind or visually impaired. At the completion of the apprenticeship course and testing by the California State Guide Dog Board, successful candidates become licensed guide dog instructors. Licensed Instructors - Licensed instructors are responsible for training successful Guide Dogs and for instructing our students to safely and effectively travel with a dog for enhanced mobility. Licensed instructors must have excellent skills in delivering both classroom and practical instruction. They also participate in follow-up visits to our graduates throughout the United States and Canada.

To find out more about these unique opportunities - please visit our website at www.guidedogs.com or contact our Human Resource Department at (415) 499-4000. Gift shop Guide Dogs for the Blind has a gift shop at both the California and Oregon campuses. The gift shop carries clothing with the Guide Dogs logo as well as a variety of gift items. Raisers are entitled to a 10% discount at either gift shop. To visit our online gift shop store, please visit our gift shop catalog on the internet.

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2-1 SUPPORT Getting Started Once you have begun attending meetings with a local puppy raising group, you will be learning about the puppy raising process, including the basics of guide dog puppy handling, submitting an application for a puppy and the basic requirements of the program. In addition, you will receive a club activity description that will give you basic information about the club and its functions. Information contained in this document includes: Calendar of Club Activities: regular meeting days, times and locations; details of any

other regular club outings and activities. Specific Attendance requirements Leader names and contact information Club and GDB website information Financial expectations and obligations: dog food, crate, toys, fees for outings, dues for

incidental club expenses (postage, copies, etc.) Fundraising information: brief description of club fundraising activities and expected

raiser participation

Program Participation Requirements A Guide Dogs for the Blind puppy raiser must be at least nine years of age. For raisers under the age of 16, the following requirements must also be met: Raisers under 16 years of age will raise a puppy under the mentorship of a designated

parent or other adult. Parent(s) or adult mentor of youth under 16 will commit to and ensure that all

program requirements for puppy raising are met. At least one parent/designated adult mentor will attend all events, meetings and

activities with youth under 16. All family or household members that will handle the puppy at home or on outings must attend at least one club meetings within each 3-month period. In this way, all members of your household receive the same instruction and support while raising your puppy. Meeting Attendance: It is important to note that all puppy raisers are required to attend at least 80% of club meetings and outings during each six month period of participation in the program. For pups under 5 months, the minimum number of required meetings/activities is 4 per month. For puppies over 5 months, the minimum number of required meetings/activities is two per month. On the occasion that a raiser cannot attend a meeting, he is required to contact the leader and make arrangements for the puppy to be at the meeting, if possible. Equally important to remember is that puppy raisers with puppies that are temporarily unable to attend club events due to a veterinary issue will still attend business meetings.

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In addition to attending meetings and outings, you are expected to read and study this Puppy Raising Manual in order to gain familiarity with all aspects of raising a puppy. When you have attended a minimum of three consecutive meetings, you may submit your completed volunteer application to the club leader. Your application may be approved for a puppy after you have met the following requirements:

a. A successful home visit from your club leaders (e.g., no further modifications to house or yard required).

b. Demonstration of a minimum level of puppy handling skills, including appropriate use of commands, proper correction technique, appropriate use of head collars, etc.

c. Completed a minimum of five days of puppy sitting of program puppy. Puppy exchanges: Your club leaders will occasionally arrange for you to puppy sit for another puppy in your club, and, likewise, for your puppy to spend a few days in another puppy raising home. These puppy exchanges are an excellent way for your puppy to experience new people and environments, and for you to learn more about handling different types of puppies. Puppy exchanges (also called puppy trades) are an integral part of the puppy raising program and participation by all raisers and their puppies is required. Each raiser is expected to participate in a minimum of six exchanges per year (more at discretion of the club leadership or CFR). These exchanges are coordinated and monitored by a designated leader or club member. Puppy sitting: There will be times when you are not able to care for your puppy for a period of time, due to a family vacation, a change in your schedule, an illness, etc. Whether it is for a few hours or a few days, your leader will help you find a raiser to take your puppy during that time. Please remember to coordinate puppy sitting with your leader. He or she knows who has the time and is best suited to your puppys needs. For more information, see Basic Requirements of Puppy Raisers in the Policies, Forms and Resources section.

Introducing your team Before you receive your puppy, you should know that there is a wonderful support system of people who will help you through any problem or question that may arise. First and foremost is your leader. Leaders are supported by the CFRs and other staff members of the Puppy Raising Department, who are, in turn, advised and supported by a host of veterinarians, instructors and other professionals. The basic responsibilities of a leader include: Teaching raisers the Guide Dog puppy raising policies and procedures. Receiving and processing raiser applications. Conducting a thorough home interview with each applicant and family to determine

suitability of the raiser and the home environment.


Providing each raiser with their Puppy Raising Manual and other relevant material; thoroughly reviewing the contents of the manual and other material with each raiser when the puppy first arrives home and on a regular basis thereafter.

Teaching raisers the techniques and guidelines as established by Guide Dogs for the Blind regarding puppy handling and socialization.

Maintaining medical records, monthly puppy raising reports, Project Records and other documentation.

Serving as a liaison between Guide Dogs for the Blind staff and the raisers. Working with the local CFR to determine the best possible environment for the

puppies. Upholding the image of both Guide Dogs for the Blind and the 4-H organization (if

affiliated).

Solving problems Before you become involved in Guide Dog puppy raising, you must understand that our mission is to provide successfully trained guides to people who are blind or visually impaired. Sometimes that involves making difficult decisions - such as a decision to transfer a puppy to another raiser home. Likewise, you may be asked to accept a puppy that was previously being raised in another home. Our leaders, CFRs and entire staff are very committed and will make every effort to help you successfully develop your Guide Dog puppy. If problems arise with your puppy, your leader and CFR will suggest various procedures to help remedy them. There are times, however, when certain problems cannot be resolved in the raiser home. Sometimes, raising the puppy just doesn't work out - for any number of reasons. The puppy may just not be right for a particular household. The time may not be right in the raiser's life for a puppy. What we do know is that the vast majority of our raisers try very hard to successfully raise a Guide Dog puppy, and we appreciate their efforts. Possible steps to remedy an ongoing puppy problem: Puppy evaluations to assess problems and progress Temporary placement of the puppy to a foster raiser home Permanent transfer to another raiser home Career change - the puppy is dropped from the program and will be assigned to a

home as a pet (detailed in section 7: What's next for your puppy) Puppy evaluation Puppy evaluations are usually scheduled or requested by a leader or CFR, but can be

requested by another member of the Guide Dogs staff. Evaluations are conducted by a Guide Dogs for the Blind employee either from their

home or at a Guide Dogs designated facility. Evaluations can take place for medical, temperament, cosmetic or behavioral reasons. Following evaluations, recommendations are made as to what should be done next,

which may involve specialized training techniques, temporary or permanent transfer of the puppy, or career change.


Foster raiser homes Placing a puppy into a foster raiser home offers an opportunity to observe the

puppy's health or behavior outside the setting of his raiser home. The process can help determine if the puppy's problems are the result of reactions to environmental factors or human influence.

Permanent home transfer Permanent home transfers are sometimes necessary if the puppy is not developing

properly physically, mentally, socially or behaviorally in the raiser home. If your puppy is transferred to another home, you still will be invited to attend

graduation and meet the individual who receives the dog (as long as your puppy was not transferred due to your abuse or neglect).

Even if your puppy was transferred to another home, you still may be eligible to receive another puppy. This decision is made on a case-by-case basis. The option is usually available if Guide Dogs for the Blind believes that the puppy placed into your household was not a suitable match for your family.

You may also be eligible to receive another puppy at a later date if it is believed that there were temporary or resolvable circumstances that prevented you and your family from effectively managing or caring for your puppy at that time.

Puppies dropped from the program A puppy will be dropped from the program if the puppy has a health, temperament,

or behavior problem that would prevent him from being an effective guide or if he has a cosmetic flaw that would draw undue comment.

Usually the last raiser will be the first offered to receive their "career changed" puppy. Circumstances that may prevent you from being offered your puppy back are: Your puppy is dropped for inappropriate dog behaviors and you have one or more

dogs in your household that Guide Dogs believes may not be able to safely live with your puppy. In the case you are raising another Guide Dog puppy, you will be given the option of transferring your current Guide Dog puppy or receiving your career change dog back.

Your puppy has exhibited assertiveness or other inappropriate behaviors toward people.

For more information, see "Career Change" in section 7: Whats next for your puppy.

Dropping a puppy from the program is often difficult for a raiser family to accept. Please remember that our goal is to provide people who have visual impairments with a dog that can improve their ability to travel safely - one that is well mannered, healthy and easy to control. Guide Dogs has put together a strong team of staff and puppy club leaders to work with you as you raise your puppy. Whenever you have a question about anything that relates to puppy raising, please do not hesitate to call your puppy club leader. If he or she does not know the answer, they will either find it for you or direct you to the necessary staff member who can assist you. Please do not call other GDB employees, other departments or students in class unless instructed to do so by your leader.


Dispute Resolution Puppy raisers are encouraged to present all Guide Dog-related concerns or complaints to their club leader at the earliest possible time. Individuals involved in disputes within the club should attempt to resolve the dispute in a constructive and respectful manner. The leader should act as a mediator in club disputes if necessary. If a raiser believes that the leader is not the appropriate person with whom to raise the concern, or if the problem relates to the leader, the raiser should take the matter to the Community Field Representative. If the matter is still not resolved to the raisers satisfaction, the raiser may continue to raise the issue with the Puppy Raising Manager. Public Confrontations If you have a dispute with a member of the public about access or any other Guide Dog-related issue, please contact your puppy club leaders immediately for guidance.

If you have a question or problem, the very first person to call is your leader. If the leader doesn't have the answer or a solution to your problem, he or she will call the area CFR and then relay the information to you.


2-2 CREATING A SAFE, SECURE ENVIRONMENT In a lot of ways, a puppy is like a child. You need to be aware of its environment and how your pup's curiosity can sometimes lead it into danger. Some accidents are unavoidable, but proper, careful supervision can go a long way to keep your puppy safe. Prevent the following from happening to your puppy: BEING HIT BY A CAR: Our highest death rate and incidence of trauma (both mental and physical) is from puppies being hit by cars. Often it is the raiser's own car or the car of a friend on their own property. Puppies hit by cars, even if they are not killed outright or severely injured, may be dropped from the program due to their subsequent reactions to cars and traffic. DROWNING: Never leave a puppy unattended in an area with access to a swimming pool. If you have a pool, you may teach the puppy how to swim to the steps, but do not rely on this for total water safety. Do not leave a puppy unattended near any open body of water. Ponds, rivers and streams can be just as dangerous as pools. Control your puppy with a long-line or leash when you are around dangerous settings. Pools and other large bodies of water must be fenced to keep the puppy out of the area when not directly supervised. POISONING: Poisons can cause death or injury to internal organs that may result in your puppy being dropped from the program. Puppy-proof your house just as if you had a toddler in your home. Do not let your puppy drink from puddles (some contain dangerous anti-freeze) or other sources of water of uncertain purity. INGESTING FOREIGN BODIES: Foreign objects that are swallowed can cause obstructions in the stomach or intestines that must be surgically removed. The ingestion and the surgery both place the pup at risk. Puppies need to be taught from the time that they are young not to pick up objects from the ground, indoors and outdoors. Suggested first aid kit supplies Scissors - for cutting bandages and tape Tweezers - for picking off ticks and foxtails or picking out pieces of glass A roll of gauze - for wrapping bandages Gauze pads - for making a bandage A rectal thermometer (normal canine temperature is 101- 102.5 degrees) Adhesive tape - for securing bandages Blankets and towels - for covering a puppy to prevent shock K-Y jelly or Vaseline - to lubricate a rectal thermometer A flashlight - for checking ears and eyes Neosporin Ointment - for use on minor wounds or burns Hydrogen peroxide - for cleaning wounds Styptic pencil/powder or alum powder - to stop bleeding nails NEVER use these items without a veterinarian's instruction and approval: Mineral oil - for use as a laxative Hydrogen peroxide - to induce vomiting Benadryl tablets/capsules - for allergic reactions Boric acid solution - for soaking wounds

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Poisons In the case of a possible poisoning, consult a veterinarian immediately. Different poisons require specific treatments, and many times the speed of your response can make a crucial difference in your puppy's prognosis. After your puppy is stabilized, your veterinarian should contact a Guide Dog veterinarian to determine what further treatment should be provided. Immediately after you have initially consulted with your veterinarian, inform your leader of what has occurred and the advice you have received. Your leader will then contact your area CFR. Common substances that can be poisonous to dogs if ingested: Ant stakes Antifreeze Chocolate Fertilizers Household or automotive cleaning products and solvents Insecticides Unprescribed or overdosed medications Peach pits Potato "eyes" Raw fish Raw onions Rodent poisons Snail bait Tomato plants Houseplants - this list contains only the most common types of poisonous plants. A complete list is too large to be included here. Try to keep your puppy from eating any plant. If he does, call your veterinarian. Japanese Yew Mistletoe Oleander bushes Philodendrons Poinsettias Here are some excellent additional references that you can refer to regarding poisons: http://www.napcc.aspca.orghttp://www.avma.org/pubhlth/poisgde.asp#top (888) 426-4435 National Animal Poison Control Center (please note: this center does charge a fee per call).

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2-3 OUTDOOR CONFINEMENT AND HOUSING A good way to ensure both the comfort and the safety of your puppy is to provide him with adequate outdoor housing and confinement. Fence requirements Yard fences should be a minimum of five feet in height. Fences must be secure to prevent a puppy from going over, under, through or around

them. Fences must prevent the puppies from escaping into the neighborhood or into hazardous areas, such as nearby swimming pools, vehicles, livestock, etc.

If the fence is not 100 percent secure, a kennel run (preferably covered) is needed to provide a safe relieving area. The following are some recommendations for kennels: The kennel should be at least six feet wide, twelve feet long and six feet high. The kennel run must be clean and dry. The puppy must not be able to dig out of the kennel run. Rubber horse-stall mats or large cement stepping stones placed side by side make an

inexpensive, puppy-proof, non-permanent kennel floor. Shade and water must always be available. A warm, dry dog house must be provided for the puppy when he is outside in the

kennel. Kennel must be padlocked if no one is home so strangers cannot let the puppy out. Use a clip to prevent your puppy from accidentally opening the latch. General recommendations for confinement and housing: Do not leave your puppy tied and unattended. Temperatures over 85 degrees and below 30 degrees, including wind chill, can be life

threatening. Do not use your fenced yard as a kennel run for the following reasons: The average yard may contain poisonous plants. Many young puppies will chew when left alone and may ingest enough grass,

twigs, plants, rocks, house or deck parts to suffer poisoning or serious gastrointestinal obstructions.

Many young puppies learn to dig when they are left unsupervised in a grassy area. Puppies left alone in a fenced yard are more susceptible to being stolen.

Older pups, who are no longer prone to garbage mouth, may be left in a fenced yard when a responsible person is at home to check on the puppy frequently.

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2-4 EQUIPMENT (and how to use it) Training aids 5-6 ft. leather leash (5/8 wide) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the first

puppy raised. This leash should be kept by the raiser for subsequent puppies. 4 ft. nylon line to be used as a puppy leash and later as a short dragline - provided by

Guide Dogs for the Blind Cable tie-down (length: 30 inches) - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind with the

first puppy raised. This tie-down should be kept by the raiser for subsequent puppies.

General supplies Stainless steel food & water dishes, 2 qt. size should be adequate Large size travel crate (24" wide x 36" long x 26" high) This size will accommodate most of our adult dogs.

Enzyme cleaner (Nature's Miracle is highly recommended) A good enzyme cleaner removes urine smell and reduces the chance that the

puppy will relieve in the same area again. A first aid kit (see suggested supply list in previous section 2-2 Creating a safe,

secure environment)

Grooming supplies Baby wipes to clean the outside of ears (alcohol-free, non-scented) Ear cleaner - provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind Either a soft slicker brush or a rubber curry brush and a comb (The type of brush will

depend on the breed of dog you will be receiving. Talk to your leader.) Toenail clippers (See your leader for a recommendation about what type and for

instructions on how to cut nails.) Styptic powder (to control bleeding if toenail quick is cut) Toothbrush and toothpaste (Use only special toothpaste made for dogs. Human

toothpaste can make your puppy sick) provided by Guide Dogs for the Blind Toys (See the "Puppy toy and play policy," in the Policies, forms and resources section) Using the equipment There are many training tools that will prove instrumental in helping you control and train your puppy. First, we will introduce you to the crate, the ex-pen, the tie-down, the leash, the collar and the dragline. The crate A crate is not a cage. A puppy can be taught to regard a crate as his den where he has security. It should be large enough for a puppy to stand up, lie down and turn around in it, but small enough so a puppy does not feel comfortable in soiling it. It should be kept clean and dry. Approved toys such as Nylabones can be placed in the crate with a very young puppy. A crate is an excellent aid in teaching proper home behaviors, containing

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the puppy when you cannot watch him; however no dog or puppy should be contained for prolonged periods (no more than four hours at a time). Absorbent bedding such as newspapers or blankets should not be placed in the crate

with young puppies. Young puppies are bedded on shredded newspapers in the whelping and weaning

kennels at Guide Dogs for the Blind. They may therefore, consider absorbent bedding as an appropriate surface for relieving, and this may cause them to begin relieving in their crates.

The young puppy also may get into the habit of chewing on cloth or other materials left in the crate because a puppy is usually put into the crate when you are not available to supervise his actions. Ingesting bedding can cause intestinal blockage.

The ex-pen An ex-pen (exercise pen) is a portable pen that consists of wire panels that are connected together. When not in use it can be folded up and readily stored. When set up it can be formed into a circle or a square. Ex-pens come in 24, 30, 36, and 48-inch heights. Their internal diameters are generally 4 feet. Any pup over 25 pounds should not be confined in a pen without explicit approval from your CFR, and the minimum height of the pen should be 36 inches. The correct size to use would depend on the age and size of the dog. Baby pups need to be in at least the 30 inch and especially vigorous pups might need a full 48-inch sized pen to discourage them from climbing. It is generally recommended that, if you will be using an ex-pen to confine your pup for brief times, you purchase the tops that can be fastened to the pen. This firms up the pen but does only allow one dimension (48 x 48). Ex-pens should be used in the same fashion as a tie-down in a supervised situation

only. Ex-pens are useful to close off an area of the house (for instance, the kitchen) or for

making a large area smaller. This can give a dog success when it is being given more freedom and the raiser is with the dog.

Ex-pens should not be used in place of a run or a securely fenced yard, as unsupervised puppies can get hurt by getting caught in the opening or between bars.

Ex-pens can also topple or collapse. To use the ex-pen correctly, it should be secured to a wall by bungee cords or straps attached to eyebolts.

An ex-pen is also an excellent tool for teaching recalls and for practicing recalls with puppies that like to play keep away. If you are having difficulties with recalling your puppy or you would like to expand your ability to confine your puppy, please contact your leader about using an ex-pen. The tie-down The tie-down is used to teach the puppy to calmly accept remaining in one place. It can be especially helpful in the following situations: Supervising young puppies Housebreaking and teaching a puppy to relieve on command


Meal preparation time Quiet time When guests are visiting Guidelines for tie-downs Tie-downs are short, durable cables with clips on each end - one for the pup's collar,

one for a ring in the wall. They should be at least 30 inches in length, long enough to permit movement. Your puppy should be able to stand and turn around comfortably.

Tie-downs should be short enough to prevent tangling or the puppy's ability to walk to the end to relieve himself.

Do not use chewable objects (such as your leash!) for tie-downs. NEVER leave your puppy unattended on a tie-down. Teaching the puppy to relax on a tie-down is essential. Many puppies do not initially accept remaining in one place, but once they learn to relax, acceptance comes very quickly. To teach your puppy to quietly accept the tie-down, use the following procedure: Select a safe, visible spot to attach the tie-down Remember that puppies can be strong, so make sure that you find something steadier

than a chair. A chair may fall over on your puppy when he pulls on it. Good places for fastening a tie-down are into the studs in a wall, to a couch, a heavy

table or bed. Put the tie-down in an area where the puppy can be observed 100 percent of the time. Ideally you should have secure places to attach a tie-down in several areas of your

house.

Calmly introduce your puppy to the tie-down Once you have the tie-down secured, quietly bring your puppy and a chew toy to the

area. Remain positive and calm as you attach the tie-down. Before you leave the puppy, it is important that he realize that he is on a line. Lightly hold the tie-down and slowly move away from him as you release your hold. Rushing away from him will make him want to rush toward you, causing a jolt against

the tie-down. Once you move away from the puppy, he will realize that he cannot join you. Remain calm if your puppy begins to struggle, cry or scream. He is not being hurt; he

is just not used to being restrained. Ignore the puppy until he stops struggling and crying. Do not talk to the puppy or it will make him more anxious. Do not provide any type of attention. Simply ignore him until he is quiet and relaxed

unless he is in danger (paw caught, etc.). Return to the puppy and provide praise 30 seconds after he is quiet. Some puppies

relax in a matter of seconds while others seem to take forever. Be patient as your puppy is learning to accept the tie-down


Leave the puppy on the tie-down for only very short periods at first (start with just getting the puppy to relax at first - as little as three to five minutes - then slowly increase the time).

The puppy that will not relax needs your patience. You must wait until he is quiet and relaxed even if it takes many minutes.

The puppy that is released when he is struggling or screaming learns that struggling and screaming will get him released. The next time he is on a tie-down he will struggle harder and cry louder because that is what worked last time. You have, in effect, trained him to resist the tie-down.

When the puppy does relax, provide only light praise and support, rather than excited praise and coddling. Excited praise and coddling may cause the puppy to become anxious and begin the struggling and crying all over again.

With some puppies, you may be able to mark your success only by timing how long it takes before the puppy relaxes. At first it may seem that the tie-down training is not working, but if the time decreases (even if it is only by a few seconds), you are making progress. Should your puppy continue to strongly fight the tie-down after several days, contact your leader.

The dragline A dragline is a long, strong cord or cable that is attached to your puppy's collar as he is allowed to explore the house. A dragline should always be used on your puppy flat collar, and not with a headcollar. You can use your puppy's nylon lead at first but later you will need a longer line. If the puppy is running or moving quickly, first step on the leash to avoid a rope burn, then pick up the dragline and correct. A nylon cord with a snap on one end and a loop on the other may also work well. The dragline should be light enough that the puppy can forget he is wearing it. The dragline allows you to correct your puppy from a distance when he starts to get into trouble. Use of the dragline Do not let your puppy wear a dragline unless you are supervising him every

second. Puppies can get hung up and strangled in a moment. At first, do not drop the dragline on the ground. Instead, hold on to the end of it and

quietly follow him through the house as he explores. Remember to keep the line loose!

If the puppy displays any incorrect behaviors, quietly and quickly correct him from the end of the dragline.

Do not say "no" or use other verbal corrections. Do not telegraph that the correction came from you. Later, when he shows that he is starting to understand some of the basic rules (not

chewing on the carpet or couch, staying out of the trash, etc.), drop the line and let him drag it around.

When you first place the dragline on the ground, do not come to the puppy's rescue if he struggles, cries, acts confused or hesitant, doesn't want to walk or becomes tangled (as long as he can't hurt himself). Instead, act neutral and ignore him.


After he relaxes about the dragline, if a correction becomes necessary, pick the dragline up and administer a normal leash and collar correction (leash and collar corrections are described in the following section).

Praise the puppy as soon as he stops the inappropriate behavior. For slightly older puppies that may already have learned some inappropriate behaviors, 6'- 8' of plastic coated steel line is very effective as a dragline because it is stiff and doesn't catch as readily on furniture. The leash and collar Guide Dog volunteers at the California facility first introduced your puppy to walking on a leash. Now your puppy needs to learn how to respond to his leash in a new setting - your home and neighborhood. Introducing your puppy to the leash Start soon after you get the puppy. At first, let the puppy lead you. Stop any attempts to pull by using small pop-and-release corrections with the leash as

he leads you around. As you follow the puppy around, get the puppy's attention by sweetly talking to him

and walking close to him. Little light touches on his body as you talk in an animated tone will encourage him to be interested in you and what you are doing.

Once you have his attention, walk a few steps at his side as you continue to use your voice and little touches to keep his interest in you.

Encourage him to follow you by moving away from him at an angle. Remember to continue to use your voice and touches to keep his attention focused on

you. Praise him as he follows you. Do not scold him for not following you.

If he resists following you: Step in another direction. In an excited tone, encourage him to follow you. Bend over to his level and use your face to stimulate him to move toward you and

follow you. Remember also to verbally encourage him. Lightly clap your hands as you coax with your voice. Use encouraging body language or movements such as wiggles or skips while you

verbally encourage. Lightly tap the ground in front of him with your hand as you encourage him with your

voice or use little light touches on his body to encourage him to move toward you. As he begins to get the idea that he is supposed to follow you, work to increase the

distance he will follow. Praise him when he follows you and leash and collar correct for any attempts to pull. Repeat and continue to praise. Keep the exercise fun for the puppy.

Leash and collar corrections Now that the puppy is getting used to the leash, let's introduce you to the effective use of it before he decides he can drag you down the street. This information is only to get you


started. The proper use of a collar and leash will be detailed more in individual exercises. Use leash and collar corrections for pulling as soon as your puppy will walk on a leash. When he attempts to pull, use the following correction: Slide your hand(s) down the leash closer to the collar. Keep the leash loose between your hand and the collar. Time your correction to occur as the puppy starts to pull, but the leash is still slack. Use a snapping or popping motion with the leash while the leash is still slack. An

effective correction will snap or pop and then immediately release. Do not give a verbal correction. Give only one correction at a time. Try to give the necessary correction the first time. If the puppy doesn't stop trying to pull, correct again with stronger snap. Strengthen each correction until you have the puppy's attention and he stops trying

to pull. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PRAISE ANY TIME THE PUPPY TURNS HIS ATTENTION TO

YOU AND STOPS PULLING. INCORRECT collar and leash techniques are: A TIGHT LEASH - this leads to constant pressure or pulling Dragging the puppy or allowing it to drag you Light, repetitive and ill-timed yanks Improperly timed snaps Hitting the puppy with the leash Yanking on the leash without watching the puppys reaction

Giving effective corrections is an art. If your dog is not responding to your corrections, practice correctly using the pop-and-release technique without the puppy, i.e. hook the leash to a chain link fence and practice your technique on the fence. It's also important to remember to praise effectively. Your puppy will never respond appropriately to leash and collar corrections if you are not praising him for correctly traveling on a loose leash. The procedure is not easily described in writing. If you are having trouble understanding or it does not seem to be working, contact your leader for assistance and additional demonstrations. Other training equipment There are two other pieces of training equipment approved by Guide Dogs: headcollars and the chain training collar. Both of these types of equipment may be used only on the recommendation and direction of your leader in consultation with your CFR. Do not purchase and use them on your own initiative. The headcollar A headcollar is a piece of training equipment that fits on a dogs head and muzzle. 'Headcollar' is a generic term for this type of equipment and there are two brand names of products that Guide Dogs for the Blind routinely uses - the Halti and the Gentle Leader. It is appropriate to call either of these pieces of equipment by the generic term, 'headcollar' or, depending on the brand a puppy is fitted with, it may be called by the


brand name. The idea is simple; where the head goes the body will follow. Headcollars are used for gentle control of a puppy or dog, and should be looked upon as just another 'tool' available to the raiser. Imagine leading a horse by a collar around its neck, the horse would simply drag you where it wanted you to go! By having control of the horse's head, you control his body. The same thing applies for dogs. All Guide Dogs are introduced and worked in a headcollar at some point prior to being placed as a working guide. Depending on the needs of the individual dog or handler, it may be the best equipment for a working guide to use. It is beneficial, but not a necessity, for puppies to be accustomed to the headcollar before they return for formal training. Headcollars are used to teach control and to direct a dogs focus and body; they should never be used to correct. Who should use a headcollar and at what age should the puppy be introduced to one? Community Field Representatives, in consultation with leaders, will make the decision as to whether a puppy would benefit from a headcollar. They will give direction as to when and where to utilize the headcollar and when to stop using it. Puppies can be introduced to a headcollar at any age. Even pups as young as 8 or 10 weeks may benefit from this type of equipment. Fitting a headcollar properly can be challenging. Unless you have a proper fit, you will not get the best use out of the equipment and the puppy may be uncomfortable. The Halti and Gentle Leader fit and work slightly differently. This is one of the reasons why it is important for leaders and CFRs to be the ones that show you how to place the equipment on the puppy. Safety first! Next to proper fit, the use of a 'safety' collar is an important factor when using a headcollar. A nylon slip collar is used as a backup safety collar with all headcollars. Sometimes, a clever puppy will learn how to wiggle out of his headcollar, or slip it off over his nose. The safety collar will enable you to hold onto the pup if this should occur. The slip collar is not used to correct the dog and the leash should never be attached only to it. The slip collar should fit very loosely so that pressure on the headcollar will not cause pressure on the neck. The safety collar, like the headcollar, should never be left on an unattended dog. An improperly used headcollar may have many negative effects, including neck injury, eye irritation from headcollar rubbing, and negative public perception. The headcollar should never be kept incessantly tight. Puppies should never be lifted off the ground by the headcollar, dragged by a headcollar or corrected with a snap or pop and release correction while wearing a headcollar. Raisers must be completely attentive at all times while handling a dog, even while in a headcollar. Improper use of a headcollar may lead to its removal by the raisers leader or CFR. No, my puppy is not wearing a muzzle. This will be a common phrase the handler of a puppy wearing a headcollar will find himself or herself saying! While the headcollar does fit over the puppys muzzle, the


puppy can still open and close its mouth, pant, eat and drink. The general public is getting used to seeing this type of equipment on dogs, but many people do think it is a muzzle and will question the handler about the equipment. Guide Dogs produces a card that explains this and raisers should have some on hand to provide education to the public. Introducing the headcollar After a leader or CFR fits a puppy with his new headcollar, the first few days are spent getting the pup used to the new equipment. Some puppies take to the new feel right away and others need a little more time. Let the puppy wear the headcollar around the house when his mind is on something other than this new sensation. Feed the puppy, play with it or do puppy-handling exercises. Do not coddle the puppy or baby it; be matter-of-fact and upbeat and the pup will be more accepting. If the puppy rubs or paws at his face, give him a pop on his flat collar and/or distract him with some other activity. Increase the amount of time the puppy spends wearing the collar each day. It should not take more than a week, at the very most, for a puppy to adjust to the collar and be able to concentrate on his work again. At this time, you should meet with your leader or CFR to show you how to attach the leash and use the headcollar correctly. Never leave the puppy unsupervised with a headcollar on. When should a puppy wear its headcollar? Once the raiser has been shown how to use the headcollar the puppy should continue to wear it every time he is being handled on-leash unless instructed otherwise by a CFR. It may be recommended that certain family members or handlers use the headcollar on the puppy more than others. Children handling a puppy in a headcollar should be supervised by an adult familiar with its application. The CFR may instruct the raiser to use the headcollar for a specified amount of time or just in certain situations. It is important that the puppy learn collar response and be controllable without the headcollar; the ultimate goal is to wean the puppy off the headcollar before it returns for formal training. The CFR and leader will discuss with you when the puppy should be evaluated for a change of equipment. The puppy should never be left unattended in a headcollar or safety collar! This includes in his crate, in a kennel run or fenced yard or on tie-down. The collars could get hung up on something and injure the puppy or the puppy may learn how to remove it or chew it. The headcollar is a piece of training equipment and should be used for active training. You must remove the headcollar if the puppy is in a situation where you are not able to see its face and there is a possibility the puppy may be quietly removing or chewing the equipment. An example of such a situation is under a dark table in a restaurant. If the puppy can behave in this situation and you cannot directly supervise it, it would be appropriate to slip the leash onto the flat collar and remove the headcollar. Remember to re-attach your equipment before leaving the table and walking through the crowd! If the puppy cannot control itself without the headcollar in this type of situation, then the puppy is not ready for this type of outing. Good control is essential for a Guide Dog puppy; by using the appropriate equipment, it will help make your puppy more successful and your job a lot easier!


The chain training collar The chain training collar is commonly and incorrectly called a choke collar. Any handler who uses a training collar to choke a puppy is using it inhumanely, incorrectly and ineffectively. To receive permission to use a training collar, you must first receive personal training and demonstrate to your leader the ability to give an effective correction with a flat collar, keeping a loose leash. Improper use of a training collar can callous the puppy's neck or injure the puppy. Only individuals able to correct effectively should handle a dog that has been issued a training collar. Guidelines for using headcollars, training collars or other equipment Never leave a headcollar or training collar on a dog when you are not present;

your puppy could become injured. Never use any other training equipment without your leader's approval or before you

have received instruction in its use by your leader. Your leader should discuss the use of any alternate training tools for your puppy with your area CFR before you are instructed in its use.

Electrical shock collars are forbidden for use on Guide Dog puppies. Reports of their use will result in the removal of the puppy.

Use of the crate and tie-down: Crates and tie-downs should not be used to keep the puppy confined for

long periods of time. They should never be used as forms of punishment. Puppies on tie-downs should always be supervised. Leave your puppy in his crate or on tie-down initially only for short periods. Increase his times of confinement as he develops patience and control of his bodily

functions. Ignore your puppy if he cries out of loneliness or frustration. Learn to know the times he needs to "do his business" so that you can relieve him

before confining him.


2-5 YOUR PUPPYS ARRIVAL If you are planning to take a vacation, arrange to get your new Guide Dog puppy after your return. A brand new puppy has enough changes going on in his life without the added rigors of vacation travel. (see 3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles" in section 3: Caring for your puppy) Puppies may be transported to their new homes in a variety of ways, including: Flying as air cargo in approved dog transportation carriers. Traveling in an airplane's passenger section with a Guide Dogs for the Blind escort

(reserved for older, well-controlled pups with the permission of the airlines and the puppys CFR).

Picked up by raisers at either the California or Oregon campus (generally raisers or leaders living within four hours of either facility).

Transported by the Puppy Raising Department in our specially equipped puppy truck. (This truck can carry up to 40 puppies! It has a hands-free cellular phone, a stereo and air-conditioning. It is well furnished and spacious, making it the "Cadillac" of Guide Dog transportation.)

Some rules to remember when picking up your puppy: The more prepared you are, the better. The puppy is in a strange place with strange

people, sights, smells and noises. It's up to you to get it into the friendly environment of its new home as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Arrive early. Make sure that the person whose name is listed on the paperwork sent with the

puppy by the Puppy Raising Department is the person picking up the puppy. Bring proper identification. The following items are for picking up puppies delivered via air cargo: Be cooperative with all airline personnel. Remember that they have jobs to do and

policies that they are required to enforce. Bring puppy waste clean-up materials for the crate. Bring a vehicle in which to transport the crate. Realize that your puppy may be frightened. Be sure you are in a secured area before

opening the crate to eliminate the possibility of your puppy bolting beyond your control.

Return the crate to Guide Dogs by following the instructions listed on the crate. UPS will pick it up at your home within two weeks. Be sure to let the Puppy Raising Department know immediately the address where the empty crate is to be picked up. If you have any problems with the pick-up, call our office at (800) 295-4050.

Guide Dogs for the Blind, Inc. 2003 Puppy Raising Manual / 2: Preparing for puppy raising Section 2-5 2/2003 Your Puppys Arrival

Keep These Phone Numbers Handy: Your leader's phone number for any questions or problems you may

have. Your CFR's phone number in case you cannot reach your leader. A good veterinarian's phone number whom you have lined up in the event of an

emergency. The phone number for the nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic.

Please license your Guide Dog puppy with your county: In most areas, a county dog license is required. Some counties provide them free of charge or charge a reduced fee for Guide Dog puppies. Others ask for a full fee. Please check with your leader and/or your county animal control office to determine your county's procedure and fees. Prepare your home Never allow the puppy to chew on anything other than Guide Dog-approved toys.

Many non-approved toys and chewies can be ingested and may cause intestinal blockages.

Remove from reach anything that the puppy could quickly pick up that could go unnoticed by you: children's small toys, pens, and pencils, etc.

Move all wiring and electrical cords out of the puppy's reach so that they are inaccessible and place all medicines and cleaning supplies in a latched cabinet.

Check the garage for items that the puppy could easily ingest, including screws, nails, antifreeze, rat poison, fertilizer, bags of cement mix etc. Antifreeze is one of the most dangerous of all poisons. Just 1/4 of a teaspoon will kill most mature animals (that's just one lick!!!). Some manufacturers make antifreeze that is safer for pets, but be cautious of all.

Keep the puppy out of the kitchen when you are cooking to avoid burn injuries. Set up a portable baby gate in the doorway of any room as an easy way to prevent the

puppy from exploring other areas of the house where he can't be supervised. Show the puppy all the sliding glass doors so he knows that they are there and

doesn't walk into them. Consider putting a bright sticker on the sliding glass door (be sure to place it at puppy height so the puppy can see it).

Near your bed, set up a crate in which your puppy will sleep. This will prevent him from relieving in the house during the middle of the night. Most puppies will wake you when they need to go out.

Minimize your puppy's exposure to other people and animals for the first few days.


Supervising your puppy, keeping him safely secured Don't leave your puppy loose and unattended. If you cannot watch the puppy (even

for a moment), put him in a safe area such as a crate or a dog run. Never allow your puppy to run loose and unsupervised with other dogs - your pup

could be injured! Accidents can occur when puppies and dogs are running and playing in the backyard. Many internal injuries and broken bones (generally from excessively rough play) have been reported to us in the past that could have been prevented with adequate supervision.

Never allow the puppy outside of a fenced yard without a leash and always have a leash on the puppy when you open a door that leads to an unfenced area.

When the doorbell rings, do not open the door until you have secured the puppy in a crate or have put a leash on him.

Young children should always be supervised around your puppy. When you are grooming your pup, check the fit and condition of his collar. Should

you find a problem with the collar, contact your leader immediately. Secure your pup by attaching a temporary collar with the puppy's Guide Dog I.D. until you receive a new collar from Guide Dogs. If it's not possible to remove the I.D. from the old collar, have the puppy continue to wear it along with the temporary collar until you receive a replacement Guide Dog collar.

Never leave your puppy unattended when attached to a tie-down. Do not wrap the leash around your hand or loop it over your body or shoulder when

you are going out for a walk. It could be difficult to free yourself in the event of an emergency.

Your pup should never ride in the back of an open pickup truck loose or tied (see 3-5 Trains, planes and automobiles in the section 3: Caring for your puppy)

If you leave your Guide Dog puppy with anyone, make sure the person is experienced in Guide Dog puppy care. You may only leave your puppy with people trained in Guide Dog puppy training techniques or those who have been approved by puppy raising leaders.

On the trip home If your pup has just arrived by plane or via the puppy truck, put his leash on him as quickly as possible and let him relieve. Select an area that has not been used by other dogs but is considered an acceptable spot for dogs to use. Praise him if he relieves. Clean up after him immediately. Offer him a drink of water. Return him to his crate or place him on a passengers lap for the ride home. Do not hold him if you are driving. Do not let him roam your car freely. Remember not to have him on a front passengers lap or the front floorboard if you

have a passenger-side airbag in your car. Ignore his cries. Praise him when he is quiet. Gently correct him with a quick tug on his collar if he struggles or mouths the person

holding him. Hold him calmly and stroke him slowly after correcting him. Praise him when he is calm.


At your home Your new puppy has arrived! While you may be tempted to show him off, understand that your pup needs time to adjust to his new surroundings. Arrange some quiet time. Instead of inviting a crowd of people to welcome him to his new home, wait a few days and then allow only one or two visitors at a time.

Begin teaching your puppy your expectations immediately. Do not let him do anything now that will be unacceptable later, including mouthing, barking, jumping, inappropriate relieving, getting on furniture, etc.

ADMINISTER ANY MEDICATIONS THAT MAY HAVE ARRIVED WITH YOUR PUPPY. If

you have any questions, contact your leader. Carry him to the spot where you want him to regularly relieve upon his arrival and

follow the relieving procedure outlined in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.

Offer your puppy a drink of water and some puppy food if it is time for a feeding. If he eats, make sure to relieve him again.

Put your puppy on-leash and let him explore the house while you follow and supervise him. You may want to restrict him to non-carpeted areas initially.

Introduce your puppy slowly to other human family members. Allow him to meet other pets slowly, carefully and one at a time. Put the family pet dogs on leash and with the puppy also on a leash, slowly allow

them to approach one another. It is easiest to make these introductions outside in the yard.

Do not allow pet dogs and the puppy to be close enough to grab, mouth or bite each other.

Keep the leashes loose and praise the family pet dogs for friendly behavior. Teach family pet dogs to behave gently by giving them a leash and collar correction

when they behave roughly. Delay introducing the puppy to pet cats until the next day if possible. Many cats

adjust better when allowed to get used to the scent of the new puppy, rather than through forced introductions. Never attempt to restrain a cat while introducing a puppy.

Give the puppy some space. Too much attention and activity from people or other pets can overwhelm him.

Begin the instructions contained in "3-2 Relieving" in section 3: Caring for your puppy.

Place the puppy in his crate or kennel if he cannot be supervised. Take the puppy out frequently to relieve. Offer the puppy food and water regularly, according to his feeding schedule. The first evening Gently play with your puppy or do puppy-handling exercises prior to putting him to bed in his crate or kennel. See section 6: Training techniques.


Have the puppy sit calmly while you handle feet, head, ears, mouth, eyes. Perform the lay-over technique described in 6-3 Commands in section 6: Training

techniques. Make sure to do the exercises very calmly and quietly. This will help tire the puppy. Give the puppy one final opportunity to relieve for the evening and remember to

praise his success. Make sure the puppy is calm before you put him to bed. Give the puppy a Nylabone in his crate to chew on for comfort. Preferably, crate him in your bedroom at n

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