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Puppy Owner’s GuideAdvice and information on raising and training

your pup with kindness, fairness and fun!

Brought to you by Super Pup

South Africa’s only independent certifying body for puppy trainers

In this guide you will find: Puppy Training Information Tips On Puppy Raising Advice On Preventing Problem

Behaviour General Canine Information Details Of Further Training Learning Theory

Enjoy!

Welcome to Puppy Group!

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Index to ArticlesClick on the various topics to go straight to the page

General

Why is Puppy School So ImportantClass NotesFurther Training

Your Puppy

Stages of Canine DevelopmentThe Right Puppy For You

Training MethodsBehaviour Sums

Positive ReinforcementTraining TreatsQuick n Easy Learning

Common Behaviour ProblemsExcessive BarkingExcessive DiggingGuests & PetsSound Sensitivity

Canine CareThe VetNutritionVaccinationsParasite ControlPet IdentificationCommon Household DangersGastric Torsion

Extra Resources

Websites

Information on learning theory

Common Puppy ProblemsGolden RulesToilet TrainingChewingBitingFeedingBarkingSleepingPulling On The LeadInside Puppy's HeadDisciplining Your Puppy

Dog BehaviourThe Dog’s DrivesWhy Does My Dog Do That?

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Why Is Puppy School So Important?

How did this concept come about?

To fully understand the process of puppy socialising let's apply this concept to wild canines - which give us the basis for ourunderstanding of natural canine behaviour.

For the purposes of this scenario let's imagine two litters of wolf puppies. The first litter progresses as any normal litter of wolfpuppies would i.e. they remain in the den for 5-6 weeks. Upon emerging they meet the big world outside. Because they stay closeto the den until the age of 16 weeks, they spend a lot of time investigating and getting socialised to new objects - such as thewolves in their pack, trees, insects, rocks, thunder, birds etc - which will become an integral part of their everyday life. After theage of 16 weeks they start exploring further afield and encounter different "new" objects. As they are past their maximumsocialising period they view these items with great suspicion and caution. These objects would be other wolves, hunters, snakesetc. and this is nature's way of ensuring that the wolves exhibit necessary caution as adults.

Now let's have a look at litter two. Instead of coming out of their den at 5-6 weeks they remained inside until 16 weeks of age.After this age they viewed everything outside of their den such as rocks, birds and insects as highly dangerous and to be avoided atall costs! As the only place they could guarantee no contact with these objects is the den, they spend most of their life in their denand undergo high levels of stress when forced to go outside.

By drawing a parallel between the den and your home one can easily understand how puppies that do not experience propersocialising before 16 weeks of age have a MAJOR problem with the world outside of their den! Not only do they not cope with the"big wide world outside" but they also have problems with new stimuli on their own turf.

How does it work?

A puppies brain is still undergoing "growth" during the socialisation period and the more positive experiences that they have beforethis age, the larger their "experience bank". This larger database actually promotes a thought process when the adult dogencounters a totally new experience and not an instant fear reaction of fight, flee or freeze. All under-socialised dogs will befearful in new situations and how they react to this fear depends primarily on the dog's breed. In general, bull breeds, terriers andworking breeds will fight, gundogs will freeze, while hounds and herding dogs will flee - this is not to say that these dog have nocourage as these reactions were bred into these working dogs for their specific working purpose. A good puppy socialising class putspuppies on the path of a thought process as an adult and not a "kill or be killed" mentality.

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But my puppy is not destined to be a show dog, so it doesn't have to get used to different things.While this may have some merit, a well-socialised dog will not go into a flat spin for example when it hears a motorbike whizzingpast from behind a wall. As this dog has been exposed to various stimuli during the maximum socialising period it will apply athought process to this strange noise and probably only show natural curiosity and perhaps a bit of territorial protection. The samedog will not also try to "kill" the new lawnmower or "murder" that vicious-looking pram that came to visit.

Do puppy classes influence aggression?Puppy socialising classes play a critical role in minimising adult dog aggression. As mentioned before, a new situation is met witheither a fight, flee or freeze reaction. But by putting your puppy through a good puppy socialising class, they will not instantly gofor this option. This is not to say that a mature dog that has gone through puppy socialising will not fight! If there is an unresolvedchallenge or resource guarding potential confusion fighting could still result, but a well-socialised dog will not instantly go for thisoption with a strange dog.

How does that work?Normally just as a puppy is starting to get the hang of "talking dog" with its littermates and mother, it is removed from the litter.Even if it goes into a household with other dogs, these resident dogs most probably also had their canine communication schoolingcut short, so we end up with a pack of semi-literate dogs, that encourages "no-brainer" reactions. So the solution may seem to beto leave puppies together until they are past the magic 16 weeks. But no, because this lands us with an even bigger problem -canine bonding.

We must still remember that even though puppies are born into a domestic environment, they must still be "tamed" or socialised.By leaving puppies together, they end up imprinting on one another and not on human beings. A canine-bonded dog can be one ofthe most frustrating dogs to own - ears become ornaments as soon as another dog enters the picture. So what's the answer? Puppysocialising - as this is a controlled environment where puppies can communicate with one another, without sacrificing any of theirhuman imprinting potential.

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What do I look for in a puppy socialising class?As this concept has become more popular, many people have jumped on the bandwagon. While their intentions are good,

a great deal of experience and training is required before one is suitably qualified to be a puppy trainer. For thepuppy owner it’s really hard to know who to entrust their puppy’s development to. This was the driving force behindthe Super Pup initiative!

All Super Pup certified trainers undergo a certification process, adhere to a comprehensive code of ethics and commit toa mandatory continuing professional development programme to ensure that the high standards of Super Pup aremaintained. Super Pup provides puppy owners with an assurance of quality training for them and their puppy.

A good puppy socialising class will:

• Provide a secure and clean area where puppies can interact freely and match puppy ages and sizes appropriately• Only use well-trained and bombproof "senior" dogs• Emphasis the fact that this is not a hour-long playtime (you don't want your puppy growing up thinking that every

time it sees another dog it's "Lead's off and playtime!")• Cover classic puppy "problems" such as toilet training, destructiveness and boisterous behaviour• Start teaching puppies basic reward-based obedience training• Expose the puppies to a variety of sights and sounds at appropriate levels• Hand out relevant literature pertaining to a puppy's development• Provide appropriate and safe puppy obstacles such as tunnels, mazes etc.• Equip owners with the information to be able to handle their pups now and past the “small and easy” stage• Be approved by the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA©™ or operated by a certified Super Pup trainer

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•Please advise your instructor if you are unable to make a class.•Do not bring a sick puppy to class! If you are unsure please contact your vet ortrainer.•In the event of missed lessons, please speak to your trainer about catching up.•Please clarify training arrangements in inclement weather with your instructor

Class with a Super Pup trainer are all about value and enjoyment.

If you are not gaining these benefits please speak to your traineror contact Super Pup – watchdog@superpup.co.za

Class Notes

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Further Training

A lot of people get bitten by the training bug and would like to continue past the puppy training. The good news is thatthere are a number of great dog training activities available.

Speak to your trainer about options available in your area.

Agility & Dog Jumping

Advanced Obedience

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The Right Puppy For You

By now you’ve probably already got your puppy and hopefully you researched the breed andhave ended up with a puppy that is compatible with your lifestyle.

Young Couple with no children:

If the couple spend a lot of time away from home at work, then perhaps a dog is not a good idea at all - a cat or twomay be better. However, if the dog will be able to spend a good deal of time with its owners then the followingbreeds are suitable : Boxer, Bull Mastiff, German Shepherd, Weimeraner, Chow Chow, Great Dane, Airedale Terrier,Bloodhound, Greyhound. If the owners enjoy jogging, then the perfect companion (once mature) on their runs wouldbe: Dalmatian, Siberian Husky, Border Collie. We have purposely not mentioned any smaller breeds because in a two-person household these dogs could easily become treated as if they were children. This could result in problemsespecially if the couple intend having children later on - the established dog will have a harder time in coping withthe new baby. It is more difficult to "baby" bigger dogs and thus easier to avoid this trap.

Family with young children

Puppies raised with children will generally speaking be more tolerant and accepting of the children - this is howeverno excuse for the child to tease the dog! Good breeds for this scenario are: Labrador, Golden Retriever, StaffordshireBull Terriers, Standard Poodle, Beagle.

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Townhouse Dwellers

Obviously smaller breeds are more appropriate and the bracycephalic (snub-nosed) dogs are even better suited as they tend not to bark too much andthey prefer to not have too much exercise. Examples of these breeds are:Pug, Pekingese, Bulldog, Boston Terrier, French Bulldog.

Elderly Owners

Again, size is an important consideration. Many small breeds are veryprotective and intelligent and provide delightful company and constantamusement. Some examples are: Chihuahua, Toy Poodle, MiniatureDachshund, Pomeranian, Miniature Pinscher. Again the temptation to "baby"these dogs must be overcome in order to avoid possible conflict withgrandchildren and over-protection against visitors.

Always consider the breed’s original purpose. If your garden is your pride andjoy, don't choose a terrier. They were bred to dig vermin from undergroundtunnels.

If your idea of a fun weekend is a hike, then the Bulldog is not for you. Whilethe general characteristics of a breed do hold true for most of the dogs ofthat particular breed, don’t take anything for granted. Don’t assume thatevery Labrador is good with children for example.

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The dog’s breed, genetic temperamentand how he is raised and treated all

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Age Description

5 - 16 Weeks The most critical stage in terms of habituating a puppy to other dogs, people and novel stimuli.

4 - 5 Months The young dog will start testing the limits with all and sundry to assess his boundaries. A fearful stage

also occurs during this period. Consolidating commands already learnt is very useful.

5 - 7 Months The young dog is keen to interact. Participatory and positive training maximises this stage.

7 - 8 Months Accepted stimuli suddenly present a challenge and the handler feels like they have taken ten steps

backwards. All pressure must be removed and if needed a break from formal training.

8 - 10 Months During this stage the dog is on a delicate balance. Commands learnt earlier should be reinforced and

new commands introduced steadily and slowly with participatory and positive methods.

10 – 12Mnths This is a wonderful stage during which the dog will eagerly participate.

12 – 15Mnths Prior to the next stage, all exercises and commands must be consolidated to aid the handler in the

following phase.

15 – 18Mnths This is a normal stage of development and the handler must not "buy into" the power struggle.

Bad behaviour must not be reinforced. This will provide enough motivation for the dog to

continue with unwanted behaviour.

18 – 24+Mnths This stage coincides with the dog's emotional maturity. If the previous stages have been handled

correctly, this marks the beginning of the stage during which the dog and handler team can start

perfecting their teamwork.

Stages Of Canine Development With thanks to Carole O’Leary & Karen Gray-Kilfoil

These stages vary from dog to dog and from breed to breed especially in the later stages. Smaller breeds candevelop earlier, with the converse being true of larger breeds.

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Understanding What Makes Your Pup Tick -Behaviour SumsAll behaviours can be simplified by looking at them in a mathematical sense. Throughout this guide you will find the relevant behaviour sumrepeated. Once you understand how the behaviour sum works, it will be much easier for you to shape your puppy’s behaviour in a mutuallyacceptable manner. Let’s look at the following example:

Owner comes home and puppy runs to car and jumps on owner. Owner pushes puppy off and shouts.

The behaviour sum (from the puppy’s perspective) is OWNER RETURNS + BOISTEROUS BEHAVIOUR = ATTENTION

The attention is a benefit for the pup so this behaviour will increase as he has been rewarded for it.

Owner comes home and puppy runs to car and jumps on owner. Owner turns back on puppy.

The behaviour sum (from the puppy’s perspective) is OWNER RETURNS + BOISTEROUS BEHAVIOUR = NO ATTENTION

The sum has changed and the boisterous behaviour has received no reward so it will decrease.

Owner only responds when puppy is calm.

The behaviour sum (from the puppy’s perspective) is OWNER RETURNS + CALM = ATTENTION

The sum has changed again, but this time the desired behaviour is being increased.

All we are doing is controlling something that the dog desires (the owner’s attention). By either giving or removing “something good” wechange the pup’s behaviour in a simple way which he understands. This is the philosophy that we apply in all of our training.

If you would like to learn more about learning theory please refer to the section in this guide.

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Using the scientific principles of intermittent reinforcement we end up with dogs that respond promptly and willinglywhether a treat is present or not.

We also start using “life rewards” such as attention and play. We always reward, but not always with treats –sometimes verbal praise can be just as effective

It is possible to train a dog entirely without treats, but this is a very old fashioned method and it relies on physicallyintimidating the dog and excessive use of punishment. Technically speaking, punishment can be an effective trainingtool for an experienced handler, BUT applied incorrectly it can and does lead to defensive aggression and ADHD typedisorders.

Why do we use positive reinforcement?By controlling “something good” we can effect a lot of behaviour changes in our pups. We can add a desired stimulus(food, toy, etc) to increase the behaviours we like. This is called positive reinforcement. Apart from the fact that positivereinforcement is proven to aid learning it also has many wonderful side effects such as:

Focus - the dog learns to ignore distraction and concentrate on the handler

Positive Association - the dog enjoys the rewards and hence enjoys listening per se and this aids the bond between dogand handler

Easy – There are no complicated co-ordination skills required. If you like it you reward it – simple as that!

It’s humane, fun and kind for both owner and puppy.

Will my pup only listen when I have treats?

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We want to reward our pups handsomely for their co-operation and there are a variety of treats that can be used. It isrecommended that treats are small, soft and moist (chopped up vienna sausage, polony, chicken etc).

Or, you can also make the “holy grail” of dog treats – liver cake. We humans find it quite distasteful, but as far as yourpup is concerned, it’s the bomb!

500g Liver (chicken liver is fine, but ox or lamb liver is better)4 heaped tablespoons of powdered dry milk (use a canine milk-substitute if your dog show excessive lactoseintolerance)4 heaped tablespoons of cake flour (don't use self-raising flour)1 egg1 teaspoon crushed garlic (Optional)1 teaspoon Brewer's Yeast (Optional)

Blend all ingredients until smooth. Place in greased baking tray - the larger the better. Place in over preheated to 180ºCfor about 30 - 40 minutes. Cut into required pieces. Allow to cool and freeze remainder in plastic bags.

A Word Of CautionIf your dog is not used to liver cake don't expect them to handle it straight away. It is rich, so care should be taken thatyou don't overdo it and cause your dog to have a runny tummy. A general rule of thumb is that the size of the treatshould be half the size of the dog's nose.

Training Treats

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How do I use treats?

The treats effectively act as a lure to get the pup into the desired position and then as a reward for when he has done so.

When working with treats, it is best to keep the bulk of the treat in your hand so the dog sees the BIG picture and breakoff small pieces for him. The effect this has on focus is phenomenal. With any kind of training the dog should nothave a meal prior to working. This increases their comfort and also protects against gastric torsions.

Exactly what is the procedure?

1. Give a verbal cue such as “Sit”

2. Lure the puppy into position

3. Reward him!

After a couple of repetitions the pup knows the sequence. Then you start pausing after stage 1. He’ll probably skip thesecond stage to get his reward quicker. Once the puppy is performing well (10 out of 10 times) then you startrewarding him on an intermittent basis – this cements the behaviour.

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My pup is only complying when I have a treat in plainsight. What am I doing wrong?

The treats have probably been phased out too quickly and thus the trust and sequencehas been damaged. The key to phasing treats is to gradually increase what you wantfrom the dog and even in four years time it is important to give them a treat fromtime to time to keep them on their toes.

Or, the pup has never been given the verbal cue BEFORE the lure/hand signal. In hismind he always has to have the lure/hand signal to perform the behaviour.

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Quick ‘n Easy LearningThe keys to teaching a puppy anything are:

1. Reduce the possibility of unwanted behaviour. Do not leave temptations around.Supervise your pup when temptations cannot be removed. Your pup can not attachmaterialistic value to your belongings. If a pup cannot cope calmly with a situation andshows undesired behaviour,then teach him in incremental levels that he can cope with.

2. Reinforce the wanted behaviour (with a treat, game, attention). If you do not dothis, your puppy has no idea of what behaviour is desired from him. If you are notteaching your pup then he is teaching himself! This must be done continuously at firstand then it may be reinforced intermittently.

3. Make the wanted behaviour more rewarding than the unwanted behaviour. There isno “right” and “wrong” in a puppy’s world. There is however “rewarding” and“unrewarding”. Using this proven framework most problem behaviours can be avoidedall together.

4. Your pup is learning all the time – there is no “Off” switch. Reinforcing an undesiredbehaviour just once is enough to teach your pup that the undesired behaviour gets himresults. He is not being naughty – he has been taught to behave like this.

5. Your pup is not a person. Do not apply complex human emotions such as spitefulness,jealousy and revenge to your pup. It will leave you feeling disheartened and“betrayed” and your pup will be left feeling very confused and insecure. If a mistake ismade is it more than likely that you did not follow the rules of learning.

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Golden Rules for Super PupsA couple of simple points must be followed in order for your pup to become the great dog he wants to be:

• Consistency: This is a vital area often overlooked. Don't lie to your pup by being inconsistent. He gets confusedand eventually gives up on you and you do not set a good example. Would you enjoy working for a boss who praisesyou for making coffee on a Monday and then shouts at you for the same thing on Thursday?

• Focus: You have to make yourself more exciting and rewarding than anything else. With positive trainingtechniques this is child's play. Every time your puppy looks at you reward him. This focus can be reinforced soeasily and once you've got him to buy into the concept it's plain sailing. This is so easy to do, but owners overlookthis point constantly.

• Training - Formal & Informal: Every minute you spend with your dog you are training him. When he is being calmand well behaved let him know you like it. Don't miss golden opportunities simply because you don't think it countsbecause it didn't happen during a formal training session. Training does not mean getting into the car once a weekand coming down to classes. Training happens at home and is going on every minute of the day.

• Guidance: If your pup has a behaviour that you don't like, then actively work to get him to do something you dolike. If you're not working to prevent or address an unwanted behaviour then you may as well be encouraging it.

• Trust: Let your puppy know he is safe with you as his leader. Don't put him into a situation he can't cope with anddon't expect him to know what to do. You are his leader and it's your job to show him the ropes.

• Reward & Fun: Make co-operation rewarding and fun. Boring owners have bored dogs, which quickly becomefascinated with everything except their owner. Don't give your pup half a chance to become bored with you.

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Toilet TrainingA puppy will need to go to the toilet after eating, sleeping, playing and periods of inactivity. By making sure that thepuppy is on grass (or where ever you choose) at these times you'll effectively condition the puppy to only "go" on theseareas.

A reward is not necessary as the action of eliminating is rewarding in itself. Whenever an “internal” reward is used thebehaviour tends to be stronger.

If you don't supervise the puppy at these times and it happens to be inside it will toilet on the carpet and an undesiredimpression has been created in the puppy's mind i.e. “This surface is acceptable for toileting.“ The pup gets relieffrom the act of toileting and the behaviour is thus reinforced.

Never rub a puppy’s nose in his mess or scold him as this just frightens him and will make him determined never totoilet in your presence. This is often the reason that a pup will dart inside and toilet when the owner takes him outsideto toilet.

Scolding your pup for a mistake very effectively teaches him the following equation:

Mom/Dad + Me + Wee/Poop + Anywhere = ANGER/BAD!

The pup thus runs away thereby removing Mom/Dad from the equation to safely toilet.

The equation we are trying to teach is: Mom/Dad + Me + Wee/Poop + Outside = RELIEF/GOOD!

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ChewingPuppies should be given free access to numerous allowable and safe chew toys. Buy a good number of them and scatterthem around the garden, house etc. This way the puppy will have the option to chew the toy where ever they may be,which conditions this behaviour.

Obviously the puppy will also chew any soft toys or clothing left lying around, so these should be out of reach initially.Should the puppy get hold of an illegal object the best way to handle this is to get the puppy to come over to you(preferably with the item still in its mouth), praise the puppy and then swap the item for a proper chew toy.

This may sound nuts - why on earth should the puppy be praised?!? It's quite simple - by conditioning the puppy to bringthe item to you, you get the puppy to think : "If I find something unusual and bring it to my owner then I get rewarded."By getting the puppy to bring you the item straight away, you condition a "return and reward" instead of a "run away,hide and chew!".

The added benefit is that your dog may find items that you though you'd lost or toys that the children may have left inthe garden - now that's handy isn't it?

HELP YOUR PUP GET IT RIGHT - DON’TLEAVE TEMPTATIONS OUT!

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BitingPuppies have needle sharp teeth and there are two very good reasons for this.Firstly the sharp teeth aid in the weaning of the puppies from their mother.By the mother experiencing painful nips from her growing puppies shebecomes more and more reluctant to feed the puppies - this is nature's way ofensuring that the puppies go onto solid food.

The second reason is so that puppies can learn to have "soft mouths". Thismay seem like a contradiction, but when the puppies play with one anotherand a nip becomes a little strong the other puppy will yelp and the nippingpup will stop. This extremely valuable lesson lets puppies know how hard to"bite" when playing. This occurs at a stage in their development when theirjaw strength is still relatively weak – even if they make a mistake it doesn’tcause serious damage.

As humans we have really pathetically soft skin which can't stand the samenips that puppies give one another and besides we don’t want out dogs tolearn to use their teeth on us.

By applying the same rules that puppies apply to one another we can let thepup know what behaviour is acceptable and vice versa.

If we teach the pup to never even touch our skin with his teeth we can neverend up in the situation of a rough game getting out of hand.

Normal mouthing is not to be confusedwith aggression as shown above. If youfeel that your puppy is being aggressiveplease speak to your Super Pup trainer –do not be complacent about aggression

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Teach Your Pup To Respect Human Skin Hold a sausage in your hand and let the end protrude. Invite the pup to eat

the sausage. If your puppy even touches you with his teeth, say "Ouch" in quitea high pitched voice and withdraw from interaction. The puppy shouldwithdraw immediately and look at you with a strange expression.

A couple of repetitions will achieve the desired effect because the pup islearning the rules relating to human skin.

It is imperative that all family members do this. Dogs are not goodgeneralisers and what may apply to one person does not necessarily apply toanother person in a dog's mind.

Smacking and shouting at a nipping puppy will produce exactly the oppositeresult as this can be interpreted as a game (particularly in bull breeds) andwill encourage this behaviour instead of stopping it.

Don’t expect your pup to be gentle during high excitement times - especiallywhen you have just started training him. Be realistic about his capabilities as ayoung puppy.

Ensure that children playing with the dog are well aware of the rules and thatthey help teach the pup to be gentle (and vice versa).

A dog is armed with a set offormidable weapons in hismouth – teaching him bite

inhibition is crucial for his andhis family’s wellbeing.

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Feeding Time

• Most adult dogs are fairly good at telling puppies off when theytry steal their food. It may look vicious, but with all thegrowling and snapping no real harm is done and the puppylearns a valuable lesson – possession is nine tenths of the law!

• If your adult dog is a real pushover, then physically restrain thepuppy from taking the adult's food. After a while the puppy willbe conditioned to leaving the other dogs alone when they arestill eating. If need be a verbal “Oi!” backed up with a squirtfrom a water bottle normally does the trick. Of course the pupis praised and rewarded for backing off.

• Puppies between the ages of two and four months should be fedfour times a day and puppies from four to six months should befed three times a day. Once the puppy is older than six monthsthey should then be fed twice daily. This regime should becarried on through out the dog's life to reduce the risk of caninebloat and the charged battery syndrome.

Possessive food behaviour such asthis should be discouraged – speak to

your Super Pup trainer

Do not leave food down for your pup all day. Apart from the fact that this can cause or cloak healthproblems, it is not conducive to a healthy bond with the owner.

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Barking• The function of the bark is primarily to alert the rest of

the pack. So when your puppy barks, investigate. If thereason for barking is insignificant - a bird for example -then simply go back inside and ignore the puppy. If thereason for barking is of significance - the arrival of peoplefor example - then praise the puppy and perhaps evenreward him.

• With constant attention from you the puppy soon learns todiscriminate with its barking. By always ignoring thepuppy's barking and never investigating, the puppy willprobably grow up into a dog that barks with the sameexcitement and vigor at a burglar or a bird.

• Puppies also bark at other dogs to solicit play. This type ofbarking is very distinct, with the puppy also adopting aplay bow, perhaps even jumping and then bowing and it isa short bark often preceded with a soft growl or whimper.When your puppy barks like this is it not to be investigatedas it is not an alarm bark.

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SleepingYour puppy's sleeping arrangements on the first night are critical. The puppy should spend the firstnight in the spot where it will sleep as an adult. By letting the puppy sleep inside for a couple of nightsand then putting him outside in the kennel is confusing and unfair. Most people do this as the puppymight cry on the first night and our hearts take over from our heads. By giving in and letting the puppysleep inside after he has been crying at the back door, the puppy learns that if he cries loud enough hegets what he wants. If the dog will sleep inside then this is not a problem, but the key here isconsistent management. If your other dogs sleep outside and the puppy gets to sleep inside it may alsofoster problems between the dogs.

Let your puppy sleep with your other dogs on his first night. The puppy will enjoy the company and itwill make him feel more secure. If your puppy stills whines and cries to be let inside ignore thebehaviour totally. If your puppy is an only dog and therefore can not get reassurance from other dogs,there are a couple of things you can do to make him feel more secure.

A warm, clean and dry kennel is a must and some puppies benefit from a hot water bottle (securelywrapped in a towel). Of course safety is a priority and the pup should not be left unattended with anypotentially harmful object.

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If you have decided that your puppy will be ahouse dog then of course it is fine for the dog tosleep inside from day one.

However, don't make the mistake of letting yourcute puppy sleep in the bed with you unless youare prepared to deal with this when the pup ismature.

Letting dogs sleep in your bed or go ontofurniture is not a problem as such. Not being ableto get the dog off without a big deal is however aproblem.

If you are unsure about your ability to do thiswhen your dog is mature then rather implement a“no bed/furniture” rule with your pup and thusavoid this problem all together.

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Pulling On The LeadThis is the #1 problem with puppies and the reason is quite simple. Owners actually teach their puppies to pull!

OWNER + TIGHT LEAD = FORWARD! The pup is rewarded for pulling by going forward and the problem is reinforced.

The easiest way to solve this problem and develop a lifelong habit of your pup keeping a loose lead is to change thisequation to something that is mutually acceptable OWNER + LOOSE LEAD = FORWARD

We call this the “Red Light Green Light” system. Simply put whenever the lead goes tight the handler stops. Withoutany encouragement or enticement the handler waits for the puppy to loosen the lead. As soon as the lead is loose thehandler moves forward. This forward movement is the reward for the pup. Giving a food reward for a slack lead can alsowork well.

Sounds too good to be true? There is a teeny catch. If the pup is allowed to take even one step forward with a tight leadthis behaviour is intermittently reinforced and it will get even worse! So, pup is never ever ever allowed to go forwardif the lead is tight. This is all well and fine, but sometimes you need to get from A to B and you can’t take 30 minutesto do so. In these cases the pup can simply be lured by placing a treat in the left hand and keeping the pup close to thehandler and thus on a loose lead. If this is not an option then the pup should be picked up and carried (care must betaken that this does not become a learned response).

Please note that we are referring to an informal heel where the pup is allowed to walk on either side of the handler andsniff, but never allowed to pull.

If the pup is never rewarded for pulling he will never pull! Simple as that.

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Getting inside your pup’s headUnderstanding your puppy and "what makes him tick" will enable you to look at things from his perspective, make

training him easier and will certainly increase your enjoyment of him. Without getting too technical, let'slook at how dogs think and why they behave the way they do.

Little People in Furry CoatsOwners who perceive their dogs to be little people in furry coats, do their dogs a massive injustice and cause terrible

stress for the dog and themselves. Dogs do not have the complex emotional system to be capable of spite, guilt,shame or jealousy. Humans have the monopoly on these delightful emotions.

Owners often complain that the dog "knows that he was wrong". A typical example is a dog chewing a specific object.The owner comes home and sees the chewed object. The owner gets annoyed and the dog appears to behavesheepishly. "Ah ha! He knows that it is wrong to chew the pool net!" The dog has no concept of right and wrong -he is simple picking up on aggressive body language and trying to calm his owner down as it upsets him to see hisleader getting aggressive.

If he repeats this unwanted behaviour is he being spiteful? Certainly not. He has been taught that chewing the pool netgets him attention - any attention is equally rewarding at this point. Has the owner considered the similaritybetween the pool net and the rope toy that they bought the dog to play with yet? The most important point toremember is: dogs do not understand the difference from right and wrong. In fact they do not even have a "right"or "wrong" as we know it. They are completely amoral.

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DisciplineNobody wants to spend all their time administering discipline. Apart from that fact that it is unpleasant, the last thingwe want to do is damage your bond with your pup. However discipline is important and overlooking this area could leadto problems.

If discipline is administered fairly, kindly and consistently your pup will benefit tremendously from being aware ofboundaries. Your pup will grow into a more content and relaxed companion as a result.

If you find yourself always having to discipline (a couple of times a week) then something is going very wrong – ask yourSuper Pup trainer for help without delay.

Effective discipline is:

•Swift•Obvious•Insistent•Never cruel

In most cases a stern voice, freezing of body language and a short cooling off are all you will need.

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Your vetYour vet will be a source of information, knowledge, practical

advice and support. There are a couple of pointers toremember when dealing with your vet in order to ensure thatyou both derive maximum benefit:

• When possible try to avoid the “rush hours”. Most clinics areincredibly busy from 16h30 to closing time and your vet maynot be in a position to give you the extra 15 minutes of histime that he or she would like to.

• In a non-emergency phone ahead and see if the clinic is busybefore going through.

• In an emergency phone the clinic and let them know you arecoming through and give a description of the problem so thatthey can start preparing the relevant treatment. Ensure thatyou have an after-hours contact number as well.

• When describing or treating your dog’s condition it may helpyour vet if you keep a written record.

• If in doubt – seek a second opinion! You are entitled to thisright and most vets will have no problem with this.

• Adhere to your vet’s advice and recommended treatment.

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NutritionProper nutrition for your new dog is the key to providing him with a long, healthy life. Your vet is the best person

to speak to with regard to the best food for your pup.

SELECTING A PUPPY FOODLarge or small, young or old, they all need a well-balanced diet for good health. This is especially significant when it

comes to puppies. The energy requirement of a puppy is up to 3 times that of an adult dog in the first weeks anda puppy may not have the stomach capacity to eat enough food to meet his needs unless the food is specificallyformulated to do so. These high-quality formulas contain all your dog needs for sound and healthy development.

Because growth rates differ among the breed sizes, you need to feed a formula designed to address the specific needs ofyour puppy’s breed size. Use the recommended amount for weight and age as a starting point, and feed thisformula until your puppy is an adult.

WHEN IS YOUR PUPPY FULLY GROWN?If his adult weight is then his breed size is and he will be fully grown at ...<10kg Small 12 Months10 -25kg Medium 2 Months25 -40kg Large 18 Months>40kg Giant 24 Months

Your puppy may eat more or less than the guidelines depending on his temperament and activity.

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LARGE BREED PUPPY NUTRITIONAlthough large-breed dogs have bigger bones than medium or small breeds, large-breed puppies do not need more

calcium. University studies and researchers at the have shown that: Rapidly growing large-breed pups are moreinclined to exhibit developmental bone problems. Controlling the rate of growth is more beneficial thanpromoting rapid growth. Moderating calcium, phosphorus and calorie levels in their diet promotes normal skeletaldevelopment. Over feeding and weight gain can actually contribute to developmental bone problems. This makesfood intake very important to monitor.

MEDIUM BREED PUPPY NUTRITIONMedium-breed puppies require nutrients and levels between those of large- and small-breed dogs. Medium breeds’

nutritional demands can be satisfied by feeding a 100 - percent complete and balanced formula that featuresmoderate amounts of all the essential vitamins and nutrients.

SMALL BREED PUPPY NUTRITIONSmall breed puppies have unique needs due to their small mouths, small stomachs and their growth spurt to adult size in

a short period of time. That is why it is important to pack a lot of nutrition and energy into a small amount offood. Premium foods for small breed puppies are formulated to be energy and nutrient-dense to meet the needsof growing puppies.

DRY OR CANNED FOOD?Premium dry dog food offers the best value and convenience while providing your dog with high-quality nutrition.

Premium dry foods come in a number of bag sizes and formulas suited to every size, life stage and activity level.Dry food also helps keep teeth clean and stay fresh for longer periods if stored properly.

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VALUE OF PREMIUM NUTRITIONNon-premium food may appear to cost less, but it is not always a bargain and may not provide optimum nutrition.Premium food makes sense both nutritionally (because of consistent, high-quality ingredients) and economically because

it provides: Complete and balanced nutrition. High nutrient and energy density, which can translate into smallerfeeding portions.

NUTRITION, SKIN & COATA dog’s nutritional requirements are best met by high-quality animal proteins such as those contained in chicken, fish,

lamb and eggs. Premium products are made with these highly digestible proteins, which promote excellent skinand coat condition and support your dog’s overall health and well-being. When your dog’s coat looks good, therest of the body is well nourished too.

ANTIOXIDANTS FOR EVERY STAGE OF LIFEScientific research has shown that we can help support a healthy immune system by including antioxidants in the diet.

THE ROLE OF FATTY ACIDSFat not only provides energy, but it is also a source of essential fatty acids necessary for the skin’s healthy structure,

Fatty acids in the diet show up in the skin, keep it moist and supple and also contribute to a lustrous and healthycoat.

IMPORTANT TYPES OF FATTY ACIDSThere are two different types of fatty acids: Omega-6 fatty acid are found in beef, pork, chicken and some vegetable

oils. Omega-3 fatty acids are found in cold-water fish oils, and some lamb meat.

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THE PROPER FATTY ACID BALANCEThe right balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids helps maintain your

dog’s healthy skin and coat. The optimal range of omega-6 to omega-3fatty-acid ratios is between 5:1 and 10:1 to promote skin and coatquality.

UNDERSTANDING LABELSDog food labels are like human food labels – they list ingredients in

descending order by amount. Because dogs are best fed as carnivores,look for dog foods that list animal protein or fish sources as the firstingredient.

FEEDING INSTRUCTIONSYour new dog’s first meals at home are very important. Find out what

formula your dog has been eating and continue feeding this food for aday or two after bringing him home. If you want to change his diet toa premium food, gradually move him from the old food to the newformula and avoid intestinal upsets by using these steps:

Day 1: Mix 75% of his current food with 25% of the new premium food.Day 2: 50/50 ratio.Day 3: 75% premium food and 25% current food.Day 4: New premium formula only. Supported by

FEEDING TIPSTo feed a puppy, from weaning to 4 months of age, offer a 100-

percent complete and balanced premium puppy formula fourtimes a day. Divide the daily feeding amount into 4 meals,following manufacturers guidelines indicated on the pack (yourpuppy may eat more or less depending on temperament andactivity.) Between 4 – 6 months, feed your puppy three timesdaily on a regular schedule.

• Always provide your dog with clean, fresh water.• Discard any uneaten wet food after 30 minutes.• Do not add nutritional supplements to your dog’s diet. Adding

commercial dietary supplements or “people food” such ashamburger, eggs, cottage cheese or cow’s milk is unnecessaryand may even do more harm than good.

FEEDING TIPS FOR A TEETHING PUPPYFrom about 3 to 6 months, most pups will lose their puppy teeth (you

may even find a tooth on the floor).

During this phase, a puppy’s mouth and gums may be very sensitive,which could cause him to be a bit picky when it comes toeating. Softening his food with water during this period mayhelp.

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VaccinationsWith the excellent vaccines available today, there is no excuse for not having your pet vaccinated. The most

common dog diseases vaccinated against are : rabies, parvovirus and distemper. In addition to these diseasesyour dog also runs the risk of canine leptospirosis and canine adenovirus (hepatitis) if they are not vaccinated.

All of these diseases can be fatal, with very young, elderly or fragile dogs being most at risk. These diseases arehorrific and no pet should run the risk of contracting them due to their owner's negligence or ignorance.Another common disease is kennel cough, which can be caused by a multitude of viruses. Until recently therewas no vaccine available, but there is now a vaccine, which should be given to dogs in high risk cases i.e.being in close proximity to many dogs in either a kennel or show scenario. Kennel cough is not usually fatal,but again young puppies and elderly dogs can fall prey to this ailment.

Your puppy should be vaccinated at 6, 10 and 14 weeks and thereafter on an annual basis. The reason for thenumerous puppy vaccinations is that the maternal anti-bodies interfere with the vaccine and therefore thepuppy needs more than one vaccine before they are safely protected. This is merely a guideline, as your vet isbest suited to advise which vaccines to give your pet and at which intervals.

Until two weeks after your puppy’s last vaccination you should exercise caution with regard to taking him onoutings. The obvious exception to this rule is properly run puppy classes where sick or unvaccinated dogs aredenied access to the training grounds.

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Parasite Control

Your pup is not only irresistible to you, butalso to ticks, fleas and intestinalparasites.

Ensure that your pup is well protected fromthese health risks by speaking to your vetwho will advise suitable products.

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It really it so easy to protect your pet from these killer diseases and relatively inexpensive too, so there's no excusefor not keeping up to date. So, keep your pet's vaccinations up to date and ensure their wellbeing.

If your pet is a bit off colour, it is best to postpone their vaccination until they are completely healthy again, for themaximum vaccine efficacy, but check with your vet.

Healthy puppies in a secure environmenthelp one another develop a robust immune

system by cross-immunisation

Should your puppy appear to be illplease do not attend puppy class!

Your pup will need to receive aveterinary check-up and a clean bill ofhealth before being allowed to rejoin

the class.

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Pet IdentificationIt is with absolute horror that pet owners react when they find that their pet has disappeared. If and how you getyour pet back depends on one crucial point - identification. There are various methods available and a combinationof one or more methods is often the best route to take.

Collar and disk - A disk is a small, lightweight plate attached to your dog or cat's collar which can either have yourphone number or an identification number, which is logged with either the local SPCA or a vet. It is wise not to putyour dog or cat's name on the disk as this gives would-be pet thieves an easier job. The disk should have only yourhome and work or cellphone number and not your physical address as this can also assist people with dishonestintentions. A lost pet with a collar and disk will be viewed as someone's pet and not "just a stray" which could makeall the difference.A good collar for a dog is a nylon web flat buckle collar. You should be able to slip two fingerscomfortably under the collar. Anything more or less means that your collar is either too tight or too loose.Tattoo - Many pedigreed dogs are tattooed with a number in their ear flap or inner thigh. This number is lodgedwith the appropriate breed club who have all of the relevant details on file. While the dog can not lose his tattoo atattoo is not as visible as a collar and disk is therefore not recommended as the best identification method.Microchip - A small chip (about the size of a grain of rice) is inserted under the skin between the pup’s shoulderblades by a vet. The procedure is no more painful than an inoculation. This microchip then stays in this positionthroughout the animal's life and when a scanner is passed over the site, a personalised number pops up onto thereader. Most vets and all SPCA's have scanners and all stray animals are scanned upon arrival. Should there be amicrochip, the owner's details are traced and pet and owner reunited!

Keep your contact details up to date on the disc and with the microchip organisation.

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Household DangersAs with the arrival of a new baby and the subsequent "baby-proofing" to the household, the preparations for thearrival of a new puppy should also include "puppy proofing". Following are a couple of pointers which also includedanger prevention for adult animals.

A number of normal household items are deadly poisonous to animals and they should be stored in either a lockablecupboard or a very high shelf. Alkaline household cleaners, bleaches, sanitisers and pool chlorines are absorbedthrough the skin and can result in bad burns. Likewise solvents, paint strippers and thinners are also dangerous. Theincorrect application of tick and flea dips or ingestion thereof also presents a serious health risk. Rat poisons andsnail/slug baits are very dangerous and may be eaten by the unsuspecting animal.

Some items may appear harmless, but are lethal to our furry friends. These include: antifreeze or coolant leakingfrom radiators (dogs will eat this and it causes irreversible kidney damage often resulting in death); lead (old paintand batteries are the most common domestic sources) and chocolate (the ingredient theobromine in chocolate islethal to dogs. Cooking chocolate has the highest concentration and a 1kg slab can kill a large dog in half an hourafter consumption!).

The garden also presents possible poisoning. The list is numerous, but the most common poisonous plants are:oleander; elephant's ear; cyclamens; foxglove; ivy; rhododendron; sweet peas and the bulbs of daffodils; tulips andcrocuses. Should you suspect that your pet has been in contact with something poisonous, consult your veterinarianimmediately.

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Burglar bars - either on a security gate or window. Your puppy may slipthrough as a youngster, but as they grow they could become stuck. If you arenot at home when this happens the consequences could be disastrous.

A flight of stairs is another potential danger. These should be cordoned offto prevent the young animal from falling and breaking a limb.

The swimming pool is another possible danger. All puppies should be able toswim, but should they fall in they will find it hard to climb out and after awhile exhaustion sets in and the animal will drown. Pool nets also make itmore difficult to get out of the pool.

Dogs love to play with sticks, but if the stick breaks off and is swallowed itmay require surgery to be removed. The same applies to stones.

Electrical cords also present a potential electrocution threat. Make sure thatall cords are well out of reach.

Not recommended!

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Gastric TorsionMany a dog owner has had the misfortune of their dog becoming a gastric torsion statistic. This horrible conditiondevelops very rapidly and unless prompt veterinary attention is received, the dog's chances of survival are virtually zero.Gastric torsion involves dilation of the stomach combined with twisting or displacement of the stomach from its normalposition. It is a serious life-threatening condition.

Certain breeds of large, deep-chested dogs are particularly prone to gastric torsion. These breeds include : Great Danes,German Shepherds, Bloodhounds, St. Bernards, Rottweilers, Dobermans, Rhodesian Ridgebacks etc. While these type ofdogs are at a high risk, all breeds can be affected.

The symptoms of gastric torsion include : restlessness, excessive salivation, unproductive vomiting and a distended(swollen) abdomen. If your dog shows these symptoms, do not wait until the stomach distends, because at this stage yourdog's life is hanging in the balance. The best methods of protection against this condition are :•Feed your dog twice daily instead of one large meal•Allow at least a one hour period to elapse between heavy exercise and feeding your dog (this applies to both before andafter the meal)•Include water with the food to avoid the dog gulping air and reduce the food swelling inside the stomach•Avoid excessive water intake both before and after the dog has eaten•When changing your dog's food, introduce the new food over a couple of days

Should your dog display the symptoms listed above or even if you are not sure, don’t waste time. Get him to yourvet immediately!

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The drives of the dogThe canine mind is controlled by drives. These drives are what makes the canine so useful to man in a working

capacity, but they can be troublesome in a pet environment. Drives will vary in intensity from breed to breed andeven amongst individuals. Take heed of your dog's drives - they are the essence of the dog. There are many drives,but let's address some of the more pertinent ones.

• Prey Drive: Ever wonder what makes your puppy chase a ball or bite onto your pants? It's the instinct or drive thatwas crucial to the first canine’s survival and it still remains intact today.

• Food Drive: Why is your pup biting your hand when you give him a treat? Because his mind is saying "Consume,consume, consume!!” And he hasn’t yet been taught how to take a treat gently.

• Social Drive: Why does your pup scream at being isolated? Because he has an innate drive that requires him towant the company of others.

The dog pictured left would not be capable ofherding an animal far larger than him if he didn’thave drive. In this case it is his prey drive that hasbeen modified through selective breeding. Herding

breeds such as this Australilan Cattle Dog gothrough the motor patterns of the stalk-hunt-kill,

but with an inhibited “kill” response.

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Why does my dog do that?Each and every dog owner has at one point or another watched their dog performing some type of behaviour and

wondered : "Why does my dog do that?". While some of these behaviours may be learnt as a response to aparticular situation, the majority of them have at their root a practical function.

Circling before lying downThis is most common when the dog is about to lie down on bedding of some sorts. There are two schools of thought on

this one - the first is that when wild canines "bedded down" it was on grass and the action of circling flattened thegrass and thereby made the "bed" more comfortable. The second theory is that by circling, the wild canine had anopportunity to survey the area before resting to do a last check for potential danger.

Scratching the ground after urination or defecationDogs have scent glands between their toes and by scratching the ground this scent is released as a territory marker. It is

believed that the scratching also serves as a visual marker. (By observing your dog and rewarding him each time hedoes this and then linking it to a word, you could have a dog that will "wipe his dirty feet" on command beforeentering the house!).

Lifting a leg to urinateThe purpose of this type of urination is to mark territory. By leaving the calling card higher, the impression of a bigger

dog is made - a clear cut and very clever case of misleading advertising! Some dogs take this to the extreme bydoing a type of "handstand" to leave their mark even higher (hey when you're a macho Chihuahua you've got to pullout all the stops!).

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Chasing the catIt is a myth that cats don't like dogs and vice versa. As with any species of animal, if properly socialised and handled,

even adult cats and dogs will get along. The problem is when the cat runs. Every dog possesses a prey drive, whichis an instinct to chase any small, furry, retreating object. Once the dog slips into this mode even dogs that havebeen raised with cats will find it difficult, if not impossible, to resist a running feline.

Displaying strange behaviour after a heatThis only occurs in unsterilised bitches and is called a phantom pregnancy. Even though the bitch is not pregnant, she

goes through the motions - some bitches even go so far as to "give birth" to the phantom puppies after the two-month gestation period. This is not very common, but bitches that do experience this will become frantic and startnesting.

Some bitches will even mother inanimate objects such as stones. The reason behind this is that in the wolf pack youngfemale nursemaids often look after puppies while the older mother (the alpha female) is hunting. By their heatscoinciding and the younger bitches experiencing phantom pregnancies and the resultant lactation, there is alwaysa food source for the puppies during the mother's absence and should the mother wolf unexpectedly die, the livesof the puppies are thus not necessarily over.

Hating the postmanThis is a learned response i.e. every day the postman arrives, the dogs bark and he leaves. The dogs are justifiable

proud that they have managed to chase the ugly postman away, not knowing that he has finished delivering themail and that's actually why he has left. The next day the postman's back and the cycle repeats itself. Dogs mustsurely think that this postman chap is definitely the most persistent intruder on earth! Some dogs will get workedup more and more at this persistence and others will eventually ignore the postman if he goes away in the normaltime span. Supported by

Excessive BarkingExcessive barking is a common complaint from many pet owners. To best understand how to stop excessive barking it

is imperative to understand why dogs bark in the first place.

WHY DO DOGS BARK NORMALLY?• Alerting the group• Soliciting play• Comfort seeking• Frustration/confusion/excitement

HOW SHOULD THIS BE DEALT WITH?How these different barks are dealt with from the beginning may decide whether a dog develops a barking problem

or not.

Alerting the groupThe primary function of a bark is to alert the rest of the dog’s social group to possible danger. So, when your puppy

barks, investigate. If the reason for barking is insignificant - a bird for example - then simply ignore the puppy. Ifthe reason for barking is of significance - the arrival of people for example - then praise the puppy and perhapseven reward him without overdoing it. With constant attention from you the puppy soon learns to discriminatewith its barking. By always ignoring the puppy's barking and never investigating, the puppy will grow up into a dogthat barks with the same excitement and vigor at a burglar or a bird - he has never been taught what deserves abark and what doesn't.

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Soliciting playDogs also bark at other dogs and humans to solicit play. This type of barking is very distinct, with the puppy also

adopting a play bow, perhaps even jumping and then bowing and it is a short bark often preceded with a softgrowl or whimper. When your puppy barks like this is it not to be investigated as it is not an alarm bark. Playingwith the puppy when it barks like this straight away will encourage the puppy to become a vocal dog.

Comfort seekingDogs that are hungry, cold, thirsty etc. will bark to indicate discomfort. The solution is simple - provide the dog with

what he needs. It is important however to not jump to attention every time you hear a bark as your dog will soonfigure out that barking gets him immediate attention.

Frustration/confusionDogs that are denied a perceived privilege may bark out of frustration. Very often this perceived privilege might be

the neighbour's cat sitting just out of reach. Also a confusing strange object (such as a new lawnmower) may bebarked at to try and establish the nature of this strange object. Some dogs will also bark out of excitement.

In addition to these reasons for barking, there are also several reasons that dogs will bark excessively:

WHY DO DOGS BARK EXCESSIVELY?• Boredom• Fear• Over Stimulation• Owner Reinforcement• Allelomimetic Response• Obsessive Compulsive Behaviour• Physical Abnormalities

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HOW DOES THIS HAPPEN?

• Boredom - This is the most common cause. If the dog's environment and daily schedule do not provide adequatestimulation (both mentally and physically) a dog will often resort to the "sound of his own voice" to break themonotony.

• Fear - Under socialised dogs and dogs with a fearful genetic temperament will bark excessively. These dogs tend tolive in a constant state of fear and are always calling for their group to assist with a perceived threat.

• Over Stimulation - Dogs that can see pedestrians and passing activity through a gate or fence may develop anexcessive barking problem if they cannot cope with the volume of stimulation. This is not a common cause ofexcessive barking, as the dogs generally tend to ignore the stimuli after a period of time.

• Owner Reinforcement - Dogs are very often unknowingly encouraged to bark by their owners. If the dog is ignoredwhen he is quiet and then paid attention when he barks excessively, he has been taught that being noisy gets himattention. Even if the attention is “aversive” i.e. shouting or even smacking, dogs will either avoid punishment bydarting out of reach (and barking more due to the excitement) or they will endure their punishment and start up assoon as they are being ignored again.

• Allelomimetic Behaviour - In a nutshell this is mimicry. A dog in a noisy household will often become an excessivebarker as he is simply following the behaviour of the rest of the pack.

• Obsessive Compulsive Behaviour - This is a neurological condition and fortunately it is rarely the cause of excessivebarking.

• Physical Abnormalities - Dogs with physical abnormalities and disabilities (deafness, blindness etc.) are more proneto becoming excessive barkers as they feel the need to "call their group" more often. Elderly dogs often develop anexcessive barking problem due to loss of sight and hearing.

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HOW IS THIS DEALT WITH?

• Boredom - The fastest and easiest way to remedy this situationis to enrich the dog's environment and daily schedule with morementally and physically stimulating activities, such as:

• Toys - The dog must be given suitable toys, which should berotated so that he does not become bored with them.

• Digging pit - All dogs love to dig and a digging pit lets themindulge to their heart's content without destroying the garden.Treats, the dog's daily food ration and toys can be buried in thepit to encourage digging in the pit only.

• Exercise - A 15-minute walk twice daily goes a long way towardsolving excessive barking as the dog can get physical exerciseand the sights and smells along the way provide good mentalstimulation.

• Splitting meals - By splitting the dog's daily meals into smallerportions the dog does not go through the "charged battery"syndrome and it feels fuller for a great part of the day and lesslikely to bark excessively.

• Training - Obedience/agility/tracking training also provides thesame benefit as exercise while also teaching the dog commandsand enhancing the bond between owner and dog. Practicesessions at home provide stimulation and without them trainingis of little benefit.

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Fear - The most obvious solution is to research the breed and bloodlines from which you would like to acquire a dogand stay away from breeds and bloodlines likely to be excessive barkers. This is however not always possible andshould your dog be barking excessively due to fear, the following is recommended:

• Remove the cause of the dog's fearful reaction. This may sound obvious, but it has solved many excessive barkingcases!

• When the dog barks investigate as if it were a puppy - by adhering to these guidelines the dog soon learns what itand what is not a threat (with older dogs it may take some time before they break their habit)

• Change the reaction. By playing a game with your dog and giving your dog treats consistently during what normallycauses him to bark e.g. thunderstorms, your dog will soon look forward to these events that previously caused himto bark.

Under socialised dogs and dogs with a fearful genetic temperament will often barkexcessively. These dogs tend to live in a constant state of fear and are always

calling for backup against a perceived threat.

Over StimulationThis is not a frequent cause of excessive barking. The answer is to restrict the dog's visual access to what is causing him

to bark - this often provides a solution within a very short period.

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Excessive DiggingDigging is a natural behaviour for dogs, but in most cases an unwanted behaviour in terms of the owner's requirements.

In order to understand how to stop unwanted digging it is important to understand the motivations:• Storing• Boredom/ Stereotypical Behaviour• Stress Relief (Frustration)• Stress Relief (Separation Anxiety)• Attention Seeking• Genetic

StoringIf a dog is given too many bones or toys, they may start storing these items. It is best to rather leave the dog with only

two or three toys or bones and to alternate toys so that they still retain their desirability.

BoredomMost dogs do not receive enough mental stimulation and physical exercise. Dogs were meant to work for a greater part

of the day, but in today's society most are redundant. By giving the dog a "job" the dog's inherent need to work issatisfied and this provides mental/physical stimulation. One of the most effective ways of doing this is to get thedog to "hunt" their food in a variety of puzzle feeders, which are available at good pet supply shops.

These brainteasers need to be rewarding in themselves and so they should all contain delicious treats, which need to beworked on to be enjoyed. Supported by

A word of caution – regularly check toys for wear and tear and also check your dog's mouth every day to make

sure that none of the toys has wedged in their teeth etc. Again it is important that these objects are rotated andare only left for them when you are gone - we want them to actually look forward to you going so that they canplay with their toys.

FrustrationSome dogs get very excited when watching the neighbourhood proceedings. Other dogs get excited when they can hear

what it going on, but they can't see anything. This frustration sets up a vicious circle - the dg gets frustrated, digsand feels calm. It is important to identify what might be setting them off and reducing this stimulus.

Separation AnxietyDecrease level of excitement at departure and arrival. The task (food) and brainteaser/s (treat) for the day should

casually be placed in the garden and you should depart with a minimum of fuss. Don't even say Goodbye initially. Bygiving them a treat and saying Goodbye with a couple of hugs etc., they are being primed to be stressed in yourabsence. A surefire way of relieving this stress is digging.

Likewise upon your arrival home, ignore the excited behaviour and only when they have calmed down greet themcalmly away from the gate. This reduces the excitement level awaiting your return and the resultant stress. On aday when you have lots of time, go through the motions of leaving and if the dog jumps up and starts actingexcited/stressed stop and then start again once they have calmed down. This routine can also be used to stopbolting toward the gate.

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Attention SeekingSome dogs (particularly bull breeds) do not mind too much

whether the attention they receive is nice or not. If thedog's wanted behaviour is ignored and the unwantedbehaviour receives attention it is understandable whythe dog digs. If a hole has been dug, it should berepaired without saying a word when the dog cannot see(watching the owner can stimulate mimicry). It iscritical to praise the dog for not digging, or for diggingin the wanted places.

GeneticTerriers were bred to go to earth and as such will turn to

digging much quicker than other breeds. This is animportant consideration to take into effect - some dogsreally NEED to dig.

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Guests & PetsGuests are a very exciting event for your pup and let’s make sure that it stays that way by following these tips:

1. Prepare ahead by getting some treats ready so that you can ask your pup for a particular behaviour instead ofexpecting him to figure it out

2. Reward your puppy for sitting or lying down when guests arrive3. Show the guests how to greet your puppy calmly4. Let the guests give your pup a treat5. Let the pup greet the guests and be petted by them6. If your pup is very eager then perhaps attach his lead so that you can prevent an accident (butbe sure to let your

puppy know what you require of him – he will NOT figure it out by himself)7. Once everybody is settled your pup can either stay with or go to a private spot where he has an extra special treat

waiting for him

Having houseguests can be quite challenging. As it is holiday get-togethers at your house can be stressful, especially if youdon't consider how to care for your pets in the midst of the holiday visitors. If your pet gets nervous around bigcrowds, you might want to set aside a quiet, private space just for him in your home. You also have to considerrelatives with particular allergies, and those that just aren't "animal people". Don't forget it's also important toknow when the best interaction is no interaction at all.

As much as your pets might be members of the family, some people simply do not like dogs. It has nothing to do with theperson's feelings for you, so don't take it personally if someone doesn't want anything to do with your belovedfriend. By respecting people's likes and dislikes and not forcing animals on them the holiday season will be all thebetter for your visitors, your pets and you. Supported by

Never knowingly place your pets in situations in which they are likely to annoy human visitors. Pets don't need enemiesany more than you do, and they'll get confused when a behavior that always charms you, such as touching noses,draws a startled yelp from a new human acquaintance.

Be firm about your feeling that you must try to make both your pet and your guest happy. Don't let anyone minimize yourfeelings for your pet with remarks such as "Couldn't you get rid of all your dogs while we're here for the holidays?"Simply reply, "You are a dear friend (or relative), and I simply couldn't bear it if your feelings about my animal/sgot in the way of our having a wonderful visit. It would just be a waste of all the time and effort we've put intoplanning this."

Demand that your pet be treated with respect in your home. It's completely within bounds for you to insist that visitorsrefrain from squeezing, teasing, or thumping your pet -- no matter whether the visitor is your three-year-oldneighbor or an overzealous family member.

When a child under the age of twelve comes to your home, take the lead in acquainting her with the resident pets.Introduce them and spell out any restrictions to the child, within the parent's hearing.

Warn overnight guests of any animal quirks and how to deal with them: "Billy usually sleeps in here, so the dog mightscratch on the door in the morning. Just say 'Go away, Bowser'.".

Most adults won't come right out and say that they're scared of dogs, so be on the lookout for signs that a visitor is wary,jumpy, or nervous around your animal. Be careful to keep your dog away from the tension before he picks up on itand gets defensive, protective or confused. A guest who is afraid of dogs is more likely to imagine that your dogacted aggressively or even bit or lunged at her. Put your dog outside or in a private dog area in your house, and youwon't have to defend her against imaginary infractions or argue with a friend.

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Never confront a scared person with your dog, however sweet and lovablethe animal is. An adult can get over a dog phobia, but it's a slowprocess - first seeing pictures of a dog, then holding a collar, thenlooking at dogs at a distance, and so forth.

You can not overcome a person's phobia easily and you don't want your dogto be offended or confused by someone yelling "Bad dog" or "Getaway" when the animal is just doing his regular sniffing routine.

Even adults will compulsively feed pets at someone else's home. Withchildren, it's almost a given. This applies especially to dogs whichmay get a dangerous cooked bone from a kindly but misguided guest.Either make it quite clear to your guests that they are not to feedyour pets or after a greeting put your dogs in a private space wherethey can enjoy a special treat.

By taking precautions and being aware of everybody's needs the crazyholiday season can be enjoyed by all.

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Sound SensitivityWe cannot understand or appreciate the terror and absolute fear that some petsexperience during fireworks and thunder storms. Some pets have been known tochew through fences and gates in an attempt to escape the noise. Scared out of theirwits they bolt and more often than not, end up being run over by a car. Those thatescape the cars either roam the streets for weeks before dying of hunger or aretaken into the custody of the SPCA, becoming yet another statistic.

If your pet is sound sensitive you must take every possible precaution to preventtheir escaping. You could also confine your pet to a dark room inside the house toreduce their stress. Tranquilisers could also be used - under your vet's supervision -or the homeopathic drops called Rescue Remedy. Leaving a television or a radio onfor your pet can also help reduce stress. Bathrooms and garages are not ideal placesfor a noise-sensitive pet as these structures can actually amplify noises due to theiracoustics. A quiet, dark secluded spot – even a blanket over a box – can help manydog feel more secure and thus less anxious during fireworks and thunderstorms.

The Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) is a synthetic copy of the pheromone thatbitches emit while nursing their pups. It is thought to promote a sense of wellbeing inthe dog. The diffusers are available from vets.

Sound desensitising CD’s are also available. These can be played on a hifi to helphabituate sound sensitive dogs to noises. Supported by

Good luck with your puppy!

We wish you many happy years ofcool canine company!

We hope that you have found this guide of use andthat you gain the most possible benefit from your

puppy classes with your Super Pup trainer.

We invite you to drop us a note about your SuperPup experience – watchdog@superpup.co.za

Visit the Super Pup website for further informationand trainer listings www.superpup.co.za

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Extra Resources

For further reading we have a included more information of atechnical nature.

We also suggest the following websites which have comprehensivearticles on puppies and dog training:

www.dogstardaily.comwww.animal-behaviour.org.za

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Learning Theory 101We do not wish to overwhelm you with technical information, but if you wish to gain a good understanding of how yourpup learns (and thus get better results) this information will assist you greatly. Please note that we have kept theterminology as basic as possible.

All animals learn by consequence and it occurs in a very simple sense. In effect there are only five possibleconsequence to a behaviour:

•Something good can be added and behaviour increases•Something good can be removed and behaviour decreases•Something bad can be added and behaviour decreases•Something bad can be removed and behaviour increases•Nothing can happen

Please note that when we use the word behaviour we mean anything that the dog does, not necessarily just obediencetype exercises.

Using these simple consequences we then arrange them according to their effect on behaviour. They become eitherreinforcers or punishers based on whether they increase or decrease the behaviour.

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Knowing the difference between a reinforcer and a punisher is thus quite simple:

•A reinforcer increases behaviour•A punisher reduces behaviour

A reinforcer could be allowing the dog a free run or giving him a treat after performing a good exercise (this willultimately increase the occurrence of the good exercise).

A punisher can be something as mild as a verbal correction or putting a dog on lead if he becomes boisterous (this willhave the effect of decreasing the occurrence of the behaviour).

Once we understand the difference between reinforcers and punishers we look at positive and negative. Please notethat this is in a mathematical sense and does not have any implication to the type of the experience for the dog.

•Positive is adding a stimulus dependant on the dog’s behaviour.•Negative is removing a stimulus dependant on the dog’s behaviour.

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Now that we understand reinforcers, punishers, positive and negative let’s have another look at fourof the possible consequences to behaviour and classify them.

Something good can be added and behaviour increasesSomething is added so it is positive, behaviour increases so it is reinforcement This is positivereinforcment

Something good can be removed and behaviour decreasesSomething is removed so it is negative, behaviour decreases so it is punishment This is negativepunishment

Something bad can be added and behaviour decreasesSomething is added so it is positive, behaviour decreases so it is punishmentThis is positivepunishment

Something bad can be removed and behaviour increasesSomething is removed so it is negative, behaviour increases so it is reinforcement This is negativereinforcement

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Using the a philosophy of “do no harm” and the end results we can analyse the four possible training approaches forpuppies:

Positive Punishment – Strongly DiscouragedThis approach can and does result in problem behaviours such as defensive aggression as well as learned helplessnessand attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) if the punishment is applied incorrectly. The addition of punishers(positive punishment) is thus best left to highly experienced and knowledgeable handlers who choose to go this route.Please note that the use of aversives and distractions can be classified as positive punishment and while these may beused with discretion it would be better to avoid the situation that necessitates their use in the first place.

Negative Reinforcement – Not RecommendedAgain there is potential for harm, but used correctly and under supervision it may be of benefit in some cases.

Negative Punishment – Occasionally SuggestedIt sounds horrible, but remember that this approach simply means removing something good with the aim ofdecreasing a behaviour. Giving a puppy a “time out” for unruly behaviour is such an example. Puppies also need tolearn that life is not a series of fantastically rewarding events, so the odd negative punishment is in fact beneficial indeveloping their coping skills. It is very helpful to add a verbal “pre-punisher”. The dog then has the option to stop hisobjectionable behaviour and thus avoid the punishment all together.

Positive Reinforcement – Highly RecommendedVery easy to use and with very little risk of problem behaviours developing, this is the approach of choice. Withcorrect usage of reward this approach gets the best results and enhances the bond between puppy and owner.

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Our dogs learn very quickly and by using some additional teaching tools we can make this process even easier. Weneed to teach a “teaching language” which will aid us tremendously in communicating with our pup.

REWARD MARKERWe have to let pup know when he has got something right. Excellent timing with his reward can and does achieve this,but it very useful to have a marker word – especially when it is not possible to reward the dog straight away. The dogis taught that the behaviour he was performing at the time of the reward marker will be rewarded.

We initially teach our pups a “drive exercise”. We place a treat in our hand and we lure the pups as they follow andeven start pushing at our hand. We then say “Yes!” and reward. All the pup is doing is interacting with us. After ashort while the pup starts tying his hardest to get us to say “Yes!”.

Our reward marker is thus “Yes!” and puppy knows that whatever he was doing at the time of that word beng said iswhat he is being rewarded for. To be used in the purest sense this should be done every single time we “mark” andreward a behaviour.

This teaching tool is incredibly useful for when the dog is at a distance from the handler.

The clicker is also used in exactly the same way and it can be an incredibly powerful training tool.

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BRIDGEThis is something that tells the pup that he is not quite doing what we want, but he is close. In effect we want a toolthat tells the pup “Carry on, you’re nearly there”.

We can simply use a low key and drawn out “Goooood” while the pup is performing an existing behaviour. While he issitting for example we can say “Goooood” and this in effect is teaching the pup a stay. Once a pup learns this concepthe is very willing to try even complex behaviours as he knows he can rely on his handler for guidance during thebehaviour.

NO REWARD MARKERThis tells the pup that he is on the wrong track altogether and he should try something else. Most people tend to dothis automatically with the use of “Uh Uh”.

When used properly this command is a great time saving and the dogs enjoy it as it saves them from expendingunnecessary energy. It thereby increases their willingness to learn and in a roundabout manner it acts as a motivator.

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PRE-PUNISHMENT MARKER

We need to have a marker that tells the pup that if he continues with his behaviour he will illicit punishment fromeither us or his environment. When using punishment it is only fair to give the pup a warning and then allow him tomake an informed choice.

Most people do this automatically by using the word “No!”. The danger with this word is that people use it too oftenand they also tend to nag and then sometimes do not follow with the punishment if applicable. This negates themeaning of “No!” and the punishment then becomes random in the puppy’s eyes. This a surefire way to destroy thepup’s confidence and trust.

How we teach this exercise is we first teach the pup how to take a treat nicely on command: “Take It”. By doing thiswe are giving the pup an alternate behaviour to perform, which gives him another option. Once this is cemented weoffer a piece of food without giving a command. As soon the pup moves toward the food we remove it and give thepre-punishment marker: “Leave!”. As soon as he backs off he is offered the food with the first command : “Take It”.He pups thus learns that carrying on with a behaviour after he hears the pre-punishment marker (Leave!) results in theremoval of something good. The decreases the behaviour so we are using negative punishment.

If this command is implemented and used properly it is invaluable for emergency situations.

There is some dispute as to the technical term and usage for this marker,but for the purposes of our use of it we will use this terminology and rationale.

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NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT

It sounds horrible, but remember that this approach simply means removing something good with the aim ofdecreasing an undesired behaviour. Giving a puppy a “time out” for unruly behaviour is such an example. Ignoring apup that is jumping is also an example of negative punishment.

Puppies also need to learn that life is not a series of fantastically rewarding events, so the odd negative punishment isin fact beneficial in developing their coping skills.

It is very helpful to add a verbal “pre-punisher” (you can read more about this in the Learning Theory section). Thedog then has the option to stop his objectionable behaviour and thus avoid the punishment altogether.

This technique is occasionally recommended. Ideally the pup should never be put into a position where he performsan undesired behaviour, but we do not live in a perfect world so we do need to have a plan for these eventualities.

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