PO Box 2511 Battle Ground, WA 98604 360.601.9744

Puppy Foster

Protocol Serving our Veterans who served us all

www.northwestbattlebuddies.org

Contacts:

Dorothy Benson Foster Coordinator (emergency contact)

509.292.8867 (home ~ preferred) 509.999.1351 (cell phone, texts accepted)

dorothy@northwestbattlebuddies.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Megan CasedayFoster Representative (Washington/Oregon)

360.702.7899 (cell phone) megan@northwestbattlebuddies.org

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Jona Vanata Foster Representative (Wyoming/Montana)

360.558.2049 (cell phone) jona@northwestbattlebuddies.org

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If your foster puppy is experiencing a medical emergency and you cannot get in touch with us, seek veterinary care. We will cover the expense.

Signature of Foster

I have received the items listed above for my puppy and understand that some items will need to be returned.

NWBB Representative

Soft Brush

Enzyme Cleaner

Lint RollersDog Bowls

Dog Food ContainerFurminator (when older)

Rake BrushProbiotics

Foster Family Go Home Package

Item Checked out Needs to be Returned

Suggested items for Foster Family to Purchase

Poop BagsToys Dog Food - First BagCollarDog Crate

Shampoo

LeashPuppy Protocol Binder

NoYes, if in good conditionNoYes, if in good conditionYesYes, if in good conditionYes

Serving our Veterans, who served us all! www.northwestbattlebuddies.org

Puppy Fostering Protocol We would like to thank you for your interest in becoming a foster family! It is our responsibility to ensure that our puppies are placed in a loving home environment. It is also important that this is a wonderful experience for our foster families. In placing dogs, we must be diligent in evaluating our foster applicants. We ask that you be completely honest and forth coming with your answers on the application. If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to contact us.

The Beginning:

At 8 weeks old the priority for the puppies is to be crate trained, potty trained and socialized. We want the puppies to develop their social skills and be exposed to various sounds and environments. It is very important to purposely expose the pups to a variety of everyday activities early on.

Socialization:

Socialization is not just taking dogs out into public to get them used to new environments. It is teaching them how to act in their new environment and to expose them to things such as vacuums, hair dryers, lawn mowers, etc. If t h e puppy reacts negatively to the loud noises or objects, just ignore their reaction and go about your daily routine. If the puppy runs away and does not recover from the new stimulation quickly, please contact Dorothy for instruction.

After puppies are vaccinated they are welcome to go into public where other pets are allowed to go. This includes Home Depot or Lowes. NWBB branded bandannas are encouraged to be worn in public.

NEVER take them to dog parks, PetSmart or Petco.

Any puppies showing insecurity or fear must stop going out in public. Please notify Dorothy Benson to discuss furthering the pups socialization skills.

When your dog is out in public they are not to be introduced to another dog on leash.

PO Box 2511 Battle Ground, WA 98604 360.601.9744

Children: We want your children to be involved in this process and feel it is very important for all children to understand the importance of proper handling and care of a puppy. Each child is different but for the most part children under the age of 10 should be supervised by a parent when interacting with dogs. Puppies have sharp little teeth and they can be mouthy when playing with children. If the child is young, they may not know how to stop the biting and might get to rough with the puppy to make them stop or get away.

Children should not be allowed to handle the puppy on a leash. Older children may take the puppy on a walk with a leash under adult supervision. This would need to be approved by the puppy foster coordinator, Dorothy Benson.

Crate training: It is recommended that you do not have blankets or absorbing material in the bottom of the crate while potty training. The puppy can have an approved stuffed animal, toy or bone. Before placing your puppy in the crate, make sure the dog has been outside to relieve themselves. If the pup whines and you are sure that it does not need to go potty, then let it whine. The puppy will discover that whining will not work. Eventually, the puppy will learn to surrender to the confinement of the crate. If the whining in the crate is excessive, please call Dorothy Benson for further instruction.

House Breaking: An 8-week-old puppy will need to go outside to go potty every hour during the waking hours. There is no need to wake the puppy if it is napping, however, you will want to take them out as soon as they wake up. Take the puppy out through the same door, to the same place and stay with it while outside. Encourage the puppy by saying, “go potty” until the pup has done so. When they have finished going potty, praise them by petting them calmly. It is important to stay with the puppy while outside. They may run back to the door and not relieve themselves and then potty in the house. If the pup sits at your feet, start walking around and repeat “go potty”. In time, the pup will potty on command and make the process much easier. If the puppy does NOT potty while outside, then place the pup in the crate for 10 minutes or so. Repeat this process until successful.

If the pup has an accident in the house and you do not see it happen, then you can do nothing about it. Dogs live in the moment and they will not understand if you are scolding them after the fact. If you see the puppy start to potty in the house, quickly pick the puppy up (this will generally startle the puppy and help deter the behavior) and take it outside to the appropriate place to go to the bathroom. Repeat your "go potty" command. If it is a long way from the crate to the door, it is beneficial to carry the puppy outside to go potty. This should only be necessary when it is young.

PO Box 2511 Battle Ground, WA 98604 360.601.9744

Visiting: There may be times when you want to take the puppy to a friend’s house for a visit or another foster puppy's home to play. Your puppy may be potty trained at your house but they may not be potty trained in a new environment. Your pup may not understand where it is okay to go potty. You will need to watch your puppy carefully and take them outside frequently to show them where to go potty.

Feeding: A puppy may need to be offered food 4 to 5 times per day at 8 weeks old. Individual feeding instructions may be necessary. If you have questions ,please contact Dorothy Benson, Foster Coordinator. Food is to be put down in a quiet environment, such as the crate, for 10-15 minutes. If puppy does not eat the meal, the food is pulled until the next feeding. DO NOT FREE FEED. The pup must learn to eat when food is presented. NEVER are puppies to be fed or given ANY treats by hand. Food or treats are ALWAYS placed in the puppy’s bowl for consumption. Always soften food with warm water or chicken broth. It is very important to maintain a good weight on the puppies. Additionally, it is important to maintain a healthy weight for the dog.

Each puppy can be different based on temperament, environment and activity levels.

Age Weight Amount Times

Per Day

Total Amount per Day

8 ~ 12 weeks 10 ~ 20 lbs 1 cup 3 3 cups

3 ~ 4 Months 20 ~ 30 lbs 1 ½ cups 3 4 ½ cups

5 ~ 7 Months 30 ~ 40 lbs 2 cups 2 4 cups

8 ~ 12 Months 40 ~ 50 lbs 2 cups 2 4 cups

***Fresh water should always be available.

Bland Diet for Upset Tummies: If your puppy has an upset tummy (diarrhea or vomiting), you can feed them food that will be softer on their tummies. Cook ground turkey, white minute rice and mix it together with some pumpkin puree. This can be refrigerated or frozen for future use.

Treats: Only approved treats and toys will be allowed to be given to pups. Approved treats consist of bully sticks, chicken strip type treat, femur bones or antlers. NEVER FEED FROM THE HAND.. ONLY FROM A FOOD BOWL.

Toys: A p p r o v e d t o y s i n c l u d e Kong toys, durable stuffed animals, or any toys that cannot break apart and be consumed. (no rope toys or rawhides) We provide toys to start but you are more than welcome to buy more. If you have a question about a toy please do not hesitate to email or call Dorothy Benson.

PO Box 2511 Battle Ground, WA 98604 360.601.9744

Grooming: Bathing: As service dogs, our dogs are bathed more than the regular household pet. We ask that you expose them to regular bathing. You do not need to use shampoo every time, just getting the puppies used to the bath tub and running water is enough.

Collars: You will be provided with a collar when you bring your puppy home. It is very important to check for the correct fit. You should be able to put two fingers between the collar and your puppies neck. Contact your local representative if you need a larger collar.

Drying: You do not need to blow dry your puppy, but it is asked that you introduce him/her to the sounds of a blow-dryer.

Nails: It is very important for you to play with your puppy’s paws and pads so they will get used to having their paws touched. If you don't have experience in nail trimming, have them done professionally. If you are close to Man’s Best Friend (Battle Ground) call 360.666.3260 or Dorothy Benson (Spokane) and we will take care of it. If you go to Man's Best Friend for vaccinations, we will always trim nails as necessary during that visit.

Furniture: Puppies are allowed on furniture and in the beds of the foster family. When the Veteran receives their service dog, being in the bed and on the furniture is encouraged. We want the pup to feel comfortable in the space of the human to help assist the veteran with night terrors and panic attacks. The pup should only allowed in the bed when it is housebroken and will not be destructive during the night.

Respect: Even though we are not concerned about formal obedience at this age, it is important that the puppy be respectful to the human. Around 4 months old, the puppy should not be jumping on or mouthing the human. They should also not be jumping on the furniture or your lap without invitation. A slight touch in the ribs when the puppy is jumping on or mouthing the human would be appropriate, followed by an “off” command. If the pup has any insecurities at all, none of these corrective techniques should be applied until the puppy is older and bolder as instructed by Dorothy Benson.

Leash Training: All puppies should be allowed to explore on leash until 4 months old. Pulling ahead with excitement is permitted until further instructed by Dorothy Benson, Foster Coordinator. A flat nylon collar is appropriate for puppy to wear until other training equipment is advised. Unless in a fenced area, puppies MUST be on leash at all times! Puppies are NEVER allowed to run loose for its protection.

Flexi-leads: These retractable leads should only be used to take your puppy outside to go potty if you do not have a fenced yard. Do not use flexi-leads for walks. You have been provided a 6- foot black lead for this.

NWBB Puppies are never allowed to go to dog parks or pet stores like Petco and Petsmart.

PO Box 2511 Battle Ground, WA 98604 360.601.9744

Affection: If the puppy is experiencing stress or fear, it is imperative that the human does not share affection or comfort the pup during this time. Affection and praise is to be shared only when we want to imprint a current positive experience. It is important not to be excited when sharing affection with the pup. It is always best if the human and the dog are in a calm state when sharing affection. If the puppy is in distress, holding it on leash or in your arms is appropriate if you are not petting them at this time. A strong confident presence will be the best support for the puppy.

There may be times when you notice that your puppy pees when it gets petted or excited. If this is something that begins to happen with frequency, it is best to not share affection with your puppy when they are excited. For example: if the puppy pees when you come home due to their excitement, come in and ignore your puppy until they have calmed down. Calm touch is the best affection.

Boarding or Kenneling: Northwest Battle Buddies puppies are never to be in the care of anyone that is not previously approved. If the foster family is temporarily unable to care for the pup, proper care will be arranged by the Foster Coordinator. Puppies are not allowed to travel out of the area with you on vacation. Arrangements will need to be made with the Foster Coordinator for your trip.

Strangers: Contact by people other than the puppy foster is encouraged, however contact with unknown dogs is not. A negative experience with another dog can imprint the wrong conditioning as well as jeopardize the safety and service career of the pup.

Photos & Social Media: As some of our puppies have been sponsored, we require photos to be taken as we put together digital photo books for them. On Facebook, there is a NWBB Foster page to share photos with other foster families. Please request to join.

Transportation: It is important that the pup go on car rides periodically to ensure that they do not get car sick. It is best for small puppies to travel in a crate. As the pup gets older, they may be allowed to ride in the back seat if they are calm and feel secure. The puppy SHOULD NOT EAT prior to riding in the car.

_____INITAIL

Expenses: upp oster's are responsible or t e dail needs and supplies or t e pupp . uppies will be sent o e wit su icient supplies to get started, including one bag o dog ood.

The list o appro ed dog oods are attac ed.

We can pro ide, upon re uest, an in kind donation receipt to be used or inco e ta purposes. e donation receipt can be or ood, ot er supplies, edical care or dog to s. e oster a ilies ust pro ide proo o purc ase. We will send t e in kind donation receipt at t e

end o t e ear.

All veterinary expenses needed for the Northwest Battle Buddies foster program will be provided by NWBB. All puppies are legally owned by NWBB, therefore puppy fosters must adhere to the above guidelines for the safety and well-being of the puppy as it grows up.

If you have any questions regarding the care of the puppy, please contact Dorothy Benson for guidance. We want this experience to be a positive one for the puppy and the puppy foster. IF AT ANY TIME the puppy foster wants to terminate their “foster” agreement, Northwest Battle Buddies will collect the puppy from the foster family immediately.

Let me express my deepest gratitude for your assistance in helping us raise these life-saving service dogs for our American Heroes. We could not do it without the help and dedication of people like you.

Sincerely,

Shannon Walker

CONTACT INFO: Dorothy Benson, Foster Coordinator

dorothy@northwestbattlebuddies.org 509.292.8867 Home509.999.1351 Cell

es e u es Office N t t. uite

ancou er, W

Man's Best Friend (The Kennel) 1611 SW 20th Ave. Battleground, WA 98604

______INITAIL

Bringing Your Puppy Home

Preparing your home:

• Move all electrical cords out of the reach of puppy and place all medicines and cleaningsupplies in a secure location.

• Check all areas for items that could be ingested. This includes screws, nails, antifreeze, ratpoison, fertilizer, cement mix, etc.

• Keep the puppy out of the kitchen, if possible. They tend to get underfoot, which can lead topotentially dangerous situations for you and your puppy.

• Use baby gates or barriers to prevent the puppy from exploring unsupervised areas of thehouse.

• Show the puppy any sliding glass doors to help deter them from running into the glass.• Find a good place for the crate. It is important that it is within earshot in order to listen to the

puppy.

Supervising the puppy

• If you are unable to monitor the puppy sufficiently to prevent accidents or other indiscretions,the puppy should be in a crate or on a leash near you.

• Puppies should always be supervised while playing with other dogs.• Check the puppy's collar for fit and condition daily. If a replacement is needed, please reach

out to your local foster contact.• Give the puppy plenty of quiet time. Too much attention and activity from people, children or

other pets can be overwhelming.

Introducing the foster to resident dogs

• Introductions between a foster dog and the resident dogs should be done inneutral territory. This should be a large area where either of the dogs canchoose to move away from one another.• If introductions are done at your home, take the foster dog to the backyardto sniff and eliminate first. Afterwards, let the resident dogs out into the yardto investigate the smells left by the new dog.• Some growling or posturing is completely normal.• If there are multiple dogs in the residence, introductions should be madewith the new foster one at a time.• Baby gates can be used for gradually introducing animals inside.

List of Approved Foods:

Dog food can be purchased at www.chewy.com, www.Amazon.com, your local feed mill or o . Prices below are estimates.

Diamond Naturals - $35 for 28-40 lb bag Taste of the Wild - $50 for 30 lb bag Royal Canin - $65 for 17.6-25 lb bag Merrick - $60 for 25 lb bag Blue Buffalo - $45 for 24 lb bag

and gna a Doma n o co - $27-$34 for 35 lb bag

Caring for your Dog's Neck and Spine: Dog Collar Issues by Rose Smith, Copyright 2005

On one of my visits to my chiropractor, he suggested I pick up the book The Well Adjusted Dog by Dr. Daniel Kamen. The book is written by a chiropractor who also does adjustments on animals, although he doesn't advertise this. Apparently, chiropractors are not allowed to practice on animals in many states, which I didn't realize, since I live in Canada and this doesn't seem to be a problem here in my province. However, what is good to know is that veterinarians in the U.S. are allowed to do adjustments on animals... that is if you can find one that's studied chiropractic medicine. Not an easy task.

In any case, Dr. Kamen wrote this book (among others) so that a dog owner could learn to do their own adjustments on their dogs. The book is very informative and walks you through the anatomy of a dog's spine, teaches you how to feel for misalignments and provides a variety of techniques that you can do at home. Many of the techniques focus on how to release tense muscles, especially if you're not comfortable with actually working on spinal column.

While reading the book, I came across a very interesting section which talks about dog collars and how they can easily cause neck problems for a dog. Most of it boils down to our (ie human's) improper handling of leash control on certain collars. Here's what Dr. Kamen has to say about dog collars:

"The improper use of collars is the number one cause of cervical (neck) subluxations in dogs. Of all the places to put undue stress, the cervical region, especially the upper two cervical vertebrae, is the most harmful. It is at this point that the body meets the brain." (Dr. Daniel Kamen, The Well Adjusted Dog, p. 24)

** What Types of Collars Are Available **

I thought I was doing well by using a dog harness. Ha! I quickly learned that this might actually be the cause of my dog's disc problems located where her neck meets her shoulders. I was even more surprised at what he said was the best collar to use.

Basically, you will find that there are five major types of collars in use by most dog owners: the regular flat nylon and leather collars, the choke collar, the prong collar, the leader or head collars, and the harness.

** Flat Collars **

The regular flat collars are what most dog owners often choose, however they can also be the most dangerous type. These collars are used for hanging your dog's tags and for simply attaching the leash to the metal loop. This collar type should never be used for dog training... nor should they be used if you have a hard time controlling your dog while out walking.

When frustrated, owners tend to pull back on the leash to stop the dog from pulling and running, or in many cases, to get them to move along if they've stopped to sniff something. This yanking will cause tremendous muscle tightening in the cervical neck area, which in turn results in cervical subluxations. This is one of the largest causes of disc and other neck problems in dogs. Unfortunately, most of these disc problems don't show up until much later in life. At this point, dog owners either put their dogs on medication for pain control and muscle relaxation or resort to surgery to try to repair the damage of degenerating discs.

** Leader Head Collars **

These appear to be an ideal way to train your dog. A leader collar fits over the head of your dog, much like a muzzle does. The leash attaches to a metal loop located on the collar under the dog's chin. The idea behind it is to turn the dog's head to "lead" them where you want to go. Sometimes humans may turn the head too sharply or too hard in frustration when trying to train their dog. This, like the regular collar, can cause upper neck problems.

** Choke Collars **

This is the type of collar most often used by dog trainers. The idea behind it is that if a dog pulls too much, it starts to choke and therefore will ease back and release the tension of the collar. In reality, the instinct of a dog when it feels the tightening of a chain is to pull away from it, effectively tightening the collar even more. Your dog could literally choke itself into a coma! Improperly trained dogs and more importantly, improperly trained owners, could cause extreme damage using a choke collar.

** Harness **

A harness is designed to fit over a dog's shoulders and be secured around the chest area. While a much better choice over a regular collar or a choke collar, these harnesses can cause subluxations in the lower neck, shoulder, chest, and foreleg area. Again, the primary cause to this is often attributed to frustrated owners yanking back on the leash, which causes the harness to put a large amount of stress on the shoulder and chest areas.

** Prong Collar **

This collar looks like some medieval torture device. Made of metal, the prong collar has a circular ring of spikes on its inner surface. When training the smallest amount of resistance distributes pressure evenly around the neck area effectively restraining the dog. As Dr. Kamen states in his book: "Some trainers liken the prong collar to "power steering" where even the slightest touch will produce the desired result." He has found that dog's that use this particular collar have far less upper cervical subluxations than with any other collar type. So in essence, this is actually the best collar to use when training and walking your dog, believe it or not.

** What Else May Cause Cervical Subluxations in Dogs? **

There are many other issues that can also cause problems with cervical subluxations. The requirements of how dog's are trained (taught to sit on the left and look up at the owner causes neck strain) is one area of concern. Mismatching dog size to dog owner size, dog obesity, improper bedding, dangerous play practices, leash length, and the way certain dogs are bred, are a few of the other causes of canine neck problems.

Of course, you would be hard pressed to monitor every move your dog makes. Perhaps he likes sleeping on the hardwood floor near the fire rather than the comfy dog mat you bought. Maybe you played a little too hard today with the Frisbee and caused your dog to jump too high, causing neck pain. The important thing is to try to correct possible activities that could cause neck subluxations in your pet so they don't continue to do more damage. You may also want to pick up the book - The Well Adjusted Dog - and learn how you can check for possible misalignments in your dog's neck and spine, then learn how to do some of the corrections yourself. By doing so, you'll be giving your dog a much happier and less painful life.

NWBB Feeding Guidelines

All fosters should reference the guidelines below or ask the advice of your local NWBB foster contact.

The amount of food provided will vary according to the puppy’s growth rate, activity level and other factors. These guidelines supersede the instructions on the dog food bags, as they are only general averages.

• 8 -12 weeks old - feed 1 (one) cup of food, three times a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner).• 12-16 weeks old - feed 1 ½ cups of food, three times a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner).• 16 weeks and beyond – feed two cups of food, twice a day (breakfast, dinner).

Feeding: 8-12 weeks: Soak the dog kibble in water. Give the puppy 10-15 minutes to finish their meal. If puppyis not able to finish their entire meal, pick up the bowl. Eventually, puppy will consume their entiremeal when it is served.

Water: Dogs should always have unlimited access to fresh and clean water. If it is not practical to have unlimited access, offer water frequently throughout the day.

It is not appropriate to limit the amount of water puppy can have, unless directed to do so by NWBB staff. Water is an essential nutrient and limiting water can cause significant health concerns including life-threatening dehydration.

Monitor drinking and relieving patterns for your puppy. Changes in these behaviors can indicate a medical issue and should be brought to the attention of your local NWBB foster contact.

Treats: Never feed puppies treats or food by hand. Food and treats are ALWAYS to be placed in their bowl for their consumption.

Only NWBB approved treats and toys will be given to pups.

• Clean food and water bowls at least once a day.• Measure dog food with a standard measuring cup, not a can, jar or

mug.• Feed the puppy away from other family pets, in a quiet environment

with little distractions.• Only serve approved foods.• Do not hover over the puppy while it is eating.• Do not test the puppy by trying to remove the bowl or put a hand in

the bowl prior to the puppy finishing its food. You either give thefood or you take it.

• If the puppy becomes possessive at any time during the feedingprocess, immediately notify your local NWBB foster contact.

Notify NWBB immediately if you observe any of the following symptoms:

• The puppy appears to be underweight• Diarrhea, vomiting, or other symptoms of an

upset stomach• Poor skin or coat• Picky eater• Loss of appetite• Unusually quiet for longer than an hour or

two• Puppy eats so fast it gags or vomits

Reminders:

Household Hazards Help keep your Service Dog safe by being aware of these household hazards:

Prescription Drugs and Over-the-Counter Medications

Accidental ingestion of drugs is the most common cause of animal poisoning. Store all medications securely and out of reach. Do not give your Service Dog any over-the-counter medications meant for human consumption without your veterinarian’s permission and never give acetaminophen to a dog or cat; just two extra-strength tablets in 24 hours will most likely kill a small dog.

Household Cleaning Products

Products containing bleach can burn your Service Dog’s skin upon contact; many cleaners can be poisonous if ingested. Close cleaning products containers tightly when not in use and store securely. Keep toilet lids closed to prevent Service Dogs from drinking treated toilet water.

Fertilizers, Insecticides, Pesticides, Baits, Traps

Keep Service Dogs away from areas treated with fertilizers, herbicides, and insecticide for 3-4 days. Service Dogs who walk on treated surfaces and then lick their paws can be poisoned. Baits and traps for ants, rodents, snails and slugs are also toxic and should be kept inaccessible to Service Dogs.

Food

Potentially harmful food includes: coffee grounds, chocolate, tea, alcohol, hops, salt, onions and onion powder, grapes and raisins, avocado, garlic, macadamia nuts, and gum, candy or breath fresheners containing the sweetener xylitol. Also, keep Service Dogs away from garbage, as rotting food contains molds and bacteria that could be harmful.

Antifreeze

As little as one-half teaspoon can be toxic to a cat and just a quarter cup can kill a medium-sized dog. Do not leave antifreeze unattended or allow it to spill in the garage or street. Use non-toxic antifreeze with a bettering agent to discourage Service Dog consumption.

Flea Products

Use only products specifically designed for your dog or cat and make sure you administer the proper dosage. Flea treatments meant for can be deadly if give to cats instead.

Tobacco

Tobacco products can cause excitement, salivation, vomiting, muscle weakness, and coma or death, and toxic effects can develop within minutes.

Plants

These plants are highly toxic to Service Dogs: foxglove, lily, yew, sago palm, rhododendron, azalea, rhubarb (leaves), oleander, castor bean and kalanchoe. If you Service Dog ingests any of these, seek immediate medical care. Website at: https://oregonvma.org/care-health/safety/poisonous-plants.

Other Hazards

These items can be harmful if swallowed or chewed on: pennies, buttons, alkaline batteries, mothballs, paints, solvents, electrical cords, and Service Dog crate bolts made of zinc.

If you ever have a questions or concerns about your Service Dog that is not life threatening, please contact us.

Dorothy Benson 509.999.1351 or

Northwest Battle Buddies 360.601.9744

The Oregon Veterinary Medical Association is a nonprofit organization of veterinarianswho are dedicated to helping people give their animals a high quality of life.

Poisonous PlantsIf you suspect your pet has ingested any toxic substance, including these plants,If you suspect your pet has ingested any toxic substance, including these plants,If you suspect your pet has ingested any toxic substance, including these plants,If you suspect your pet has ingested any toxic substance, including these plants,If you suspect your pet has ingested any toxic substance, including these plants,

please contact a pet poison hotl ine, an emergency veterinaryplease contact a pet poison hotl ine, an emergency veterinaryplease contact a pet poison hotl ine, an emergency veterinaryplease contact a pet poison hotl ine, an emergency veterinaryplease contact a pet poison hotl ine, an emergency veterinaryhospital , or your veterinarian immediately .hospital , or your veterinarian immediately .hospital , or your veterinarian immediately .hospital , or your veterinarian immediately .hospital , or your veterinarian immediately .

Scan for a listof plants that

are toxic topets.

10 Plants Highly Toxic to PetsKeep pets away from these plants. Seek veterinarycare if your pet ingests any of these.

AzaleaAzaleaAzaleaAzaleaAzalea1

2

3

CyclamenCyclamenCyclamenCyclamenCyclamen4

KalanchoeKalanchoeKalanchoeKalanchoeKalanchoe5

Autumn CrocusAutumn CrocusAutumn CrocusAutumn CrocusAutumn Crocus6

FoxgloveFoxgloveFoxgloveFoxgloveFoxglove7

LilyLilyLilyLilyLily8

Amanita MushroomAmanita MushroomAmanita MushroomAmanita MushroomAmanita Mushroom9

YewYewYewYewYew10

Cocoa mulchcan be hazardous tocan be hazardous tocan be hazardous tocan be hazardous tocan be hazardous todogs if consumed indogs if consumed indogs if consumed indogs if consumed indogs if consumed insufficient quantities.sufficient quantities.sufficient quantities.sufficient quantities.sufficient quantities.

Flowers from the lily family, including Easter,stargazer, tiger, day, rubrum, and Japaneseshow are very toxic to cats. Contact with even apetal or leaf can cause kidney failure within 72hours. Keep lilies out of homes with cats.Keep lilies out of homes with cats.Keep lilies out of homes with cats.Keep lilies out of homes with cats.Keep lilies out of homes with cats.

Liliesare highlyare highlyare highlyare highlyare highly

toxic to cats!toxic to cats!toxic to cats!toxic to cats!toxic to cats!

✲ Unconsciousness✲ Irritation to skin or mouth✲ VomitingVomiting is common after a cat or dog ingests plant material.Seek veterinary care if there are other symptoms or if youknow the item consumed was toxic.

Symptoms of Plant Poisoning✲ Drooling✲ Diarrhea✲ Lethargy✲ Seizures

MarijuanaMarijuana can make your petvery sick. Keep marijuana andedibles such as brownies awayfrom pets and stored inpet-proof containers. Seekveterinary care if your petingests marijuana.

©2015 Oregon Veterinary Medical Association

OregonVeterinaryMedicalAssociation

oregonvma.orgTwitter: @oregonvma

Facebook: /oregonvma

Or visit: http://oregonvma.org

RhododendronRhododendronRhododendronRhododendronRhododendron

Sago PalmSago PalmSago PalmSago PalmSago Palm

Other plants found in Oregon that can be toxic:lupine, delphinium, elderberry, iris, tulip, hyacinth,and daffodil.

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d foods

Salt

Fatty

foods

Gum

, ca

ndie

s, o

r oth

er

foods

sw

ee

ten

ed

with

xylit

ol

Tea le

ave

sR

aw

yeast

dough

The

se h

ou

seho

ld o

bje

cts

can

ca

use

pu

nct

ure

wo

un

ds,

ch

oki

ng,

o

r in

fern

al o

rga

n d

am

age

to

yo

ur

pe

ts.

Ma

ke s

ure

the

y a

ren

’t le

ft

lyin

g a

rou

nd

OB

JEC

TS

B

alls

(sp

eci

fically

balls

that

are

sm

all

or

have

a s

mooth

oute

r co

atin

g

Batteries

Bre

ad tw

ist tie

sB

uttons

Coin

sC

otton s

wabs

Gla

ssH

air p

ins

Jew

elry

Nyl

ons

Paper

clip

sP

last

ic w

rap

Sock

sR

ubber-

bands

Sharp

obje

cts

(kniv

es,

razo

rs,

scis

sors

, nails

, needle

s, e

tc.)

Str

ing,

yarn

, or

denta

l flo

ssT

ow

els

Wax

HA

ZA

RD

S I

N T

HE

HO

ME

D

ogs

an

d c

ats

are

more

like

ly to b

e in

jure

d in

these

are

as

of

your

hom

e.

Kee

p y

our

pets

aw

ay

from

these

pla

ces

or

watc

h t

hem

clo

sely

wh

en t

he

y’re

near

them

if y

ou c

an.

TR

OU

BLE

AR

EA

S

-Balc

onie

s -

Tall

balc

onie

s w

ithout sa

fety

raili

ngs,

or

raili

ngs

space

d too F

ar

a

pa

rt,

can

lea

d to

a d

an

ge

rou

s fa

ll.-B

ath

tubs

or

sinks

- Sm

all

pets

can

dro

wn

in full

bath

tubs

or

sinks.

-Doors

and w

indow

s -

Dogs

and c

ats

can r

un a

way

if th

ey

find a

n o

pen d

oo

r o

r w

ind

ow

. T

he

y c

an

als

o g

et

se

rio

usly

inju

red

if t

he

y r

un

acro

ss a

bu

sy

roa

d. W

ind

ow

s sh

ou

ld h

ave

scr

ee

ns

to p

reve

nt ca

ts o

r oth

er

pets

fro

m

falli

ng

ou

t.-E

lect

rica

l co

rds

- Yo

ur

pets

can

be

ele

ctro

cute

d if

the

y bite

or

che

w on

ele

ctri

cal c

ord

s th

at

are

plu

gg

ed

in.

Do

n’t le

t th

em

chew

on s

peake

r an

d

ph

on

e w

ire

eith

er,

wh

ile n

ot d

an

ge

rou

s b

eca

use

of

little

vo

lta

ge

, a

co

rd is

a

cord

an

d y

ou

mu

st b

e c

on

sist

en

t-F

irep

lace

- Your

pets

can

be

burn

ed

by

the

flam

es

or

get

sic

k if

the

y

ea

t th

e a

she

s.-T

oile

ts -

Toile

t w

ate

r is

not h

ea

lthy

for

pets

to d

rink;

alw

ays

rem

em

ber

to

close

the li

d. M

ake

sure

you le

ave

ple

nty

of

clean, fr

esh

wate

r fo

r your

pets

if

you m

ust

leave

them

hom

e a

lone.

-Wash

er

and D

ryer

- Y

our

pets

can c

raw

l into

a w

ash

er

or

dry

er

with

out y

our

know

ledge; cl

ose

the d

oors

to these

applia

nce

s w

hen y

ou’re n

ot u

sing t

hem

.

Pet

Fir

st A

idKe

ep a

firs

t aid

saf

ety

kit o

n ha

nd a

t hom

e an

d if

you

trav

el w

ith y

our p

et,

in y

our c

ar. A

kit

on h

and

in th

e ca

r can

bec

ome

hand

y if

you

see

an a

nim

al

that

is in

jure

d –

just

use

cau

tion

whe

n he

lpin

g a

stra

nge

dog

or c

at to

avo

id

inju

ry to

you

rsel

f.

Your

hom

e ki

t sho

uld

incl

ude

an a

nim

al fi

rst a

id b

ook

that

you

are

fam

iliar

w

ith –

don

’t w

ait u

ntil

the

emer

genc

y to

sta

rt re

adin

g. S

mal

l pam

phle

ts a

re

avai

labl

e fr

om th

e A

mer

ican

Red

Cro

ss fo

r use

in y

our c

ar.

Keep

ess

entia

l med

ical

reco

rd in

form

atio

n in

clud

ing

your

pet

’s n

ame,

ag

e, b

reed

, and

sex

, mic

roch

ip n

umbe

r, va

ccin

e hi

stor

y, a

nd a

ny p

re-

exiti

ng h

ealth

pro

blem

s w

ith a

ny k

it. T

his

will

mak

e it

easi

er to

rela

y th

is

info

rmat

ion

to a

vet

erin

aria

n if

you

call

for a

ssis

tanc

e. B

e su

re to

kee

p yo

ur

vete

rinar

ian’

s co

ntac

t inf

orm

atio

n ha

ndy

in b

oth

kits

. If y

ou a

re tr

avel

ing,

do

a li

ttle

rese

arch

ahe

ad o

f tim

e to

col

lect

em

erge

ncy

vete

rinar

ian

cont

act

info

rmat

ion

shou

ld y

ou n

eed

help

alo

ng th

e w

ay.

In th

e ca

r kit,

kee

p ad

vanc

e di

rect

ive

info

rmat

ion

in c

ase

you

are

also

sev

erel

y in

jure

d an

d/or

con

tact

info

rmat

ion

for a

frie

nd o

r re

lativ

e w

ho c

an m

ake

med

ical

dec

isio

ns fo

r you

r pet

.

Fir

st A

id K

it S

uppl

ies:

sB

lank

et (a

com

pact

ther

mal

bla

nket

wor

ks w

ell t

o he

lp c

ontr

ol s

hock

)s

Ban

dana

(muz

zle

– do

not

use

ifvo

miti

ng, o

r hea

d w

ound

wra

p)s

Sock

s (fo

r use

a fo

ot b

anda

ges

orfo

r war

mth

)s

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on le

ash

sB

anda

ge s

ciss

ors

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eeze

rs (fl

at s

lant

tip

inst

ead

ofth

e ro

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riety

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ue d

epre

ssor

(to

exam

ine

mou

th)

sD

ispo

sabl

e gl

oves

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ecta

l the

rmom

eter

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ispo

sabl

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fety

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r (fo

r sha

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aro

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ound

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2)

sPa

per t

owel

s an

d ha

nd s

aniti

zer

sPe

nlig

hts

3x3

ster

ile g

auze

pad

ss

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gauz

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r ban

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rm

akin

g a

muz

zle)

sA

dhes

ive

first

aid

tape

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t wra

p (s

ticks

to it

self

but n

ot fu

r)s

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i-bac

teria

l wip

es o

r pad

ss

Q-ti

pss

Hot

/col

d pa

ck (t

o re

duce

sw

ellin

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vasa

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type

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antis

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ile s

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e so

lutio

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flus

hou

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con

tam

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ound

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Art

ifici

al te

ar g

el (l

ubric

ate

eyes

afte

rflu

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g)s

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gre

ase-

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ng d

ishw

ashi

ngliq

uid

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lean

con

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inat

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kin

orst

icky

sub

stan

ces)

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astic

bag

gies

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t cra

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r car

rier (

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alm

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plac

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r pet

and

a s

afe

way

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ansp

ort)

sB

ottle

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ater

sB

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r oth

er c

onta

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ater

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& E

vacu

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add

ition

to y

our fi

rst a

id k

it, it

is a

goo

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ea to

kee

p a

disa

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/eva

cuat

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or y

our p

et a

t hom

e. S

tore

this

eva

cuat

ion

kit w

ith le

ashe

s an

d ca

rrie

rs

as c

lose

to a

n ex

it as

pos

sibl

e.

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part

of y

our e

vacu

atio

n pl

anni

ng, a

rran

ge a

ccom

mod

atio

ns fo

r you

r pet

ah

ead

of ti

me.

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ou h

ave

to e

vacu

ate,

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AVE

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R P

ET B

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is n

ot s

afe

for y

ou to

be

in y

our h

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it is

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afe

for y

our p

et. S

ince

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al

l Red

Cro

ss o

r oth

er d

isas

ter s

helte

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ccep

t pet

s, it

is im

pera

tive

that

you

ha

ve d

eter

min

ed w

here

you

will

brin

g yo

ur p

ets

ahea

d of

tim

e.

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e su

re a

ll yo

ur p

ets

wea

r col

lars

and

tags

with

up-

to-d

ate

iden

tifica

tion.

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ur p

et’s

ID ta

g sh

ould

con

tain

a n

ame

and

tele

phon

e nu

mbe

r at a

m

inim

um.

If sh

e ha

s ur

gent

med

ical

nee

ds, a

med

ic-a

lert

type

tag

is a

goo

d ad

ditio

n. If

you

are

eva

cuat

ing

with

a s

mal

l dog

or c

at, b

e su

re y

our p

et’s

na

me

as w

ell a

s yo

ur n

ame

and

cont

act i

nfor

mat

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are

on y

our p

et’s

car

rier

in c

ase

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are

sepa

rate

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e ev

acua

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ns a

head

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ime

so t

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whe

n di

sast

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trik

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ou

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prep

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ur e

vacu

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t sho

uld

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lear

ly la

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1 | P a g e

NWBB F s e Fle i n i n

Protecting your puppy from fleas and ticks is an important part of responsible pet care. But it's not easy. The fleas and ticks on your dog are only a small percentage of the number in the animal's environment. Fleas and their eggs can live outside in grass, soil and even crevices in sidewalks, while inside they live in rugs and carpets, cracks in floors, bedding, etc.

Symptoms of Fleas on Dogs Fleas are most commonly noticed on a dog’s abdomen, the base of the tail and the head. Common symptoms of fleas on dogs include:

• Droppings or “flea dirt” in a dog’s coat (small dark "grains of sand")

• Flea eggs (tiny, white grains)

• Allergic dermatitis

• Excessive scratching, licking or biting at skin

• Hair loss

• Scabs and hot spots

• Pale gums

• Tapeworms

Causes of Fleas

• Fleas are easily brought in from the outdoors.

• Fleas thrive in warm, humid climates at temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees.

• Adult fleas spend most of their lives on the animal, laying eggs in the fur.

• These eggs drop out onto rugs, upholstery, bedding and furniture; the new adult fleas will, inturn, find their living host (either human or animal).

Flea Complications

• Fleas can consume 15 times their own body weight in blood, which can cause anemia or asignificant amount of blood loss over time.

• This is especially problematic in young puppies or kittens, where an inadequate number of redblood cells can be life-threatening.

• Some pets have heightened sensitive to the saliva of fleas, which can cause an allergic reactionknown as flea allergy dermatitis.

Flea Treatment

It is important that all of your pets are treated for fleas, including indoor and outdoor cats, and that the environment is treated as well. Once your veterinarian confirms the diagnosis, a treatment plan may include the following:

2 | P a g e

• Topical or oral treatment or the use of shampoos, sprays and powders on the pet.

• Thorough cleaning of your house, including rugs, bedding and upholstery. Severe cases mayrequire using a spray or a fogger, which requires temporary evacuation of the home.

• It is very important not to use products on your cat that are intended for dogs.

• Lawn treatments may also be needed if your pet keeps getting re-infected every time it goesoutside.

Flea Prevention

• Use a flea comb on your pet and wash his bedding once a week.

• Keep the outside of your house free of organic debris, such as rake clippings and leaves, andremember that fleas like to hide in dark, moist, shady areas.

• There are many preventative flea control products available, both as prescription and over-the-counter formulas.

Ticks

Ticks are parasites that feed on the blood of unlucky host animals, such as cats and dogs. Like mites and spiders, ticks are arachnids. Although their presence may not even be noticed by the host, ticks can transmit many diseases through their bite.

Tick species and disease transmission tend to vary based on where you live, so check with your vet about what is common in your area.

Tick Transmission

• Most species of ticks require blood meals from a host to survive.

• Ticks bury their head into a host’s skin when they bite and then gorge themselves on blood.

• Ticks tend to be most active in late spring and summer and live in tall brush or grass, where theycan attach to dogs and outdoor cats.

• Ticks can be transferred from pets coming into the household from outdoors.

• Ticks prefer to attach close to the head, neck, ears and feet, but can be found anywhere on yourpet’s body.

• Ticks are particularly prominent in warm climates and certain wooded areas of the Northeast.

How Do I know if My Pet Has Ticks?

• Most ticks are visible to the naked eye. Ticks are often the size of a pinhead before they bite,and not noticed until they swell with blood.

• While these parasites rarely cause obvious discomfort, it is a good idea to check your petregularly if you live in an area where ticks are prevalent, especially if he spends a lot of timeoutside.

3 | P a g e

• Run your hands carefully over your pet every time he comes inside, and especially check insideand around the ears, head and feet.

Complications Associated with Ticks

• Blood loss

• Anemia

• Tick paralysis

• Skin irritation or infection

• Lyme Disease

• Lyme disease is a bacterial infection than can affect humans, dogs, cats and othermammals.

• Its primary carrier is the deer tick, which can attach to a dog or human and transmit thebacteria that cause the disease.

• Clinical signs of Lyme disease include depression, swelling of the lymph nodes, loss ofappetite, fever, swollen, painful joints and kidney failure.

• Lyme disease is most effectively treated with antibiotics.

• With prompt, proper treatment, your pet’s condition should start to improve within 48hours.

• Cytauxzoonosis

• Cytauxzoonosis is a lethal infection caused by tick bites.

• This blood parasite is common in the South and is carried by bobcats.

• Ticks who feed on bobcats may transmit the infection to domestic cats, for whom thedisease is fatal.

• Clinical signs of infection include: high fever, difficulty breathing, loss of appetite,jaundice, coma and death.

• The infection progresses rapidly—in a matter of weeks—and there is no known cure,though several studies have proved successful in managing certain strains of thedisease.

Tick Treatment and Removal

If you do find a tick on your pet, it is important to take care when removing it. Any contact with the tick’s blood can potentially transmit infection to your pet or even to you. Prompt removal is necessary, but it is important to stay calm and not rush.

Ten Rules for Training Your Dog

1. Your Dog Needs A Leader, If It Can't Find One, It Will Try To Do The Job Itself

We put our dogs in a world that they can't possibly comprehend completely. We make them follow rules that don't make natural sense to them. The least we can do is be a good guide and mentor for them. This means we let them know who's in charge. Don't project negative feelings on me because of that last sentence just because you might have a crappy boss at work. When you know there is someone who knows what they are doing, is confident in their abilities, and is able to do the job in a leadership position, it sets you at ease. The same goes for your dog. If your dog does not find you to be a meaningful leader, it will assume that role itself because,

well... somebody's gotta do it. But they'll make choices that make sense to them, which are incompatible with the world we have them live in. Out in the wild, it would make sense to

guard your resources as a matter of survival. It would make sense to pee and poop wherever you want so long as it's not where you sleep or eat. It would make sense to run away from

things that are a bit scary and to fight off things deemed a threat. None of these behaviors are compatible in our society. If you want your dog to conform, you better be ready to show them.

2. Make It Exactly What You Want, From The First Repetition To The Last

Practice doesn't make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. When placed in a situation where your choices are to make an exercise easier or lower your standards for performance, you should ALWAYS pick the former. Whether you are looking for a straight sit at the end of a recall or working through growling and lunging on walks, find the point where your dog can do it right and move forward from there only as quickly as they are able to maintain the standards of the exercise.

3. Fix One Problem At A Time

Small issues build up to bigger ones. Most problems on walks and anywhere else, are solved before you leave the house. If your dog can't sit still while you put their leash and collar on, they won't wait nicely at the door. If they can't wait nicely at the door, they won't walk nicely at the beginning of the walk. And if they can't walk as nicely during that first block, the rest of the walk won't be any better. Well, maybe after they're exhausted, the walk gets easier, but a TIRED dog and a TRAINED dog are not equal.

4. If It's Not Right At Your Side, It Won't Be Right Anywhere Else

A dog that can't sit still by your side will never be able to walk nicely by your side. Reactivity, over excitement, aggression... the solution for EVERY. THING. starts with being able to do nothing. A dog that can't do nothing won't be able to do much. Tethering, benching, place, sit on the dog, crating... there are many exercises that can help teach a dog to find internal and external comfort, to self calm, and that they don't need to respond to every little thing that happens in front of them. Dogs, like people, need a clear mind to learn.

5. If It's Not Right On Leash, It Won't Be Right Off Leash

Does your dog jump on guests, get on the furniture, not come when called...? "Are they on leash?" is the first question I always ask.

Go to meet someone at the door, have the dog on leash, step on the leash so that there is enough slack that the leash won't get tight unless the dog's front feet come off the floor. Now open the door. The dog will be restricted from jumping. Wait until they stop trying and then ask for a sit.

Dog jumps on furniture. Dog doesn't listen when you tell them to get off. Just grab the end of the leash, and pull them off. Don't sling shot them across the room, just turn and walk with leash in hand and take the dog with you. Rinse and repeat.

Dog is in the back yard. You want to call them to come inside, and of course, they respond with "No." Attach a long line (15-20 foot leash) to the dog's collar and make sure you are holding the end of it before you call them. Give the leash a little tug and reel them in like a fish. Give them something really good (their favorite treat, a game of tug, whatever they like) . Rinse and repeat.

Here's where people go wrong: they only do this for a week or so. Do it (every. single. time.) until you don't need to actually use the leash (you never have to pull them, stop them, reel them, guide them), and then keep the leash on for 100% of the time it took to get to that point (so if it took 4 weeks to get to the point where you don't ever have to use leash pressure, keep the leash on for another 4 weeks). Dogs are natural gamblers. If they "win" one of these exchanges once, they'll continue to place bets. Make the result inevitable until you are sure your dog isn't calculating the odds.

6. Quit While You're Ahead

Always end your sessions before you've completely exhausted the mental capacity of your dog. Sometimes we drill something so much that our dog loses steam and we take offense. Really, it's the dog that should be offended, that you're a jerk who can't recognize they did their best the last 50 times you asked for something and now they'd really like to take a nap. Particularly when your working on something that has been a real sticking point for your dog, when they nail it, stop. Don't "reward" that success by demanding 100 more of those things, whatever they are, in the same session.

7. You Have To Go Back To Go Forward

Remember rule #5 way up there? That doesn't apply only to the house, or the back yard. It applies to ANY new situation you put your dog into. This is particularly important when people are moving into the proofing phase of training a behavior. So even if your dog is 100% perfectly reliable off leash in your yard, when you go to a new place or work around new stimuli, start on leash and make sure everything is just right before moving forward.

8. Under Stress, Animals Go Back To What Is Most Familiar

When a dog is aroused in any way they typically revert to whatever behavior is instinctual or the strongest habit. It does us no good to only train in relaxing environments, or by avoiding things that typically trigger them. We have to work through those situations. The only way to teach a dog to cope... is to make them cope. This doesn't mean throwing them into the deep end, but it does mean that you need to train behaviors to the point of habit, under the same circumstances where they would usually fall apart (once foundation work has been completed, and by working up to those situations methodically) if you want to really resolve issues. If you still have any second thoughts about how your dog is going to act in a situation, you have more work to do.

9. Do Not Give A Command You Can't (Or Won't) Reinforce

Going back to #5 again, where I said dogs are gamblers. People go through 6 weeks of a group class and think they're done. Their dog "knows" sit, and stay, so they use those words while they sit on the couch at the end of the day. The dog blows them off, but they are tired, so they let it slide. Congratulations! You just made 10 times more work for yourself.

Keep the dog on leash so it's easy to follow through. And think before you tell your dog to do something. If you aren't going to be willing and/or able to follow through, you'd be better served by crating them (managing their behavior by limiting their options and not allowing the opportunity for them to do something wrong).

And A Bonus...

10. Always Train, Never Test

Tests are fine for kids in school. Not for dogs. Whenever you are with your dog, get it in your mind that you are not testing them to see if they are going to do the right thing or the wrong thing. You are, instead, going to give advice and guidance... as much as necessary, but as little as possible... always. This is an important thing to get in your head. I've said this in front of group classes before and literally seen an immediate change, a softening in handling, a release of tension, and an overall more understanding attitude from clients. The actual actions (leash pressure, corrections, praise, everything) don't actually change. But the attitude and the vibe the person is giving off makes a major difference to the dog.

Appropriate greetings are common sense. Imagine if someone greeted you the way many people greet dogs!

Human to DogC O R R E C T

Stay outside the dog's bubble andpresent your side to the dog.

Avoid rushing up. Approach slowly (at a relaxed walk).

Ask if you can interact first.

Avoid reaching in or towards the dog's car.Stand a safe distance awayso that you are not a threat.

Avoid interacting with unfamiliar dogs,especially if they're tied up.

Avoid staring at or approaching head-on. Approach sideways and lookusing your peripheral vision.

© 2011 Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS

Avoid leaning over or towards dogs even whenyou change position to squat or get up.

Avoid reaching your hand out for the dog to sniff. Let the dog approach at his own rate.

Avoid petting if the dog looks nervous or tense.Just admire him instead.

It's OK to pet the dog if he looks relaxed,comes up to you, and solicits yourattention by rubbing against you.

Avoid hugging, kissing, and patting roughly.This is too familiar and disliked by many dogs.

Avoid reaching into their safety zone.

Avoid rushing up.

Avoid interactions without asking.

Avoid staring at people. This is scary.

Avoid looming over.

Avoid reaching into personal space.

Avoid close interaction if the personis afraid of you.

Avoid touching inappropriately. Pet gently.

Human to DogINCORRECT

Human to HumanINCORRECT

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How to Greet a Dog (and What to Avoid)

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Housebreaking:

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