product analysis development

Slide 1

DEVELOPMENTANALYSISPRODUCTPresented By:Shivangi SrivastavaPARTY WEARFROCK

PARTY WEARFROCK

1

INTRODUCTIONFABRICTRIMSMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET

INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENTFLOW PROCESS CHART

CMT

To identify and analyse fabric,, trims and its properties, sources and price

To Control the quality of garment by using correct and effective information on Patterns and constructionOBJECTIVES

2


INTRODUCION


CMT

METHODOLOGYWORKStep 1: Purchase of garments (2 in number)Step 2: Testing of all fabrics used in the garmentStep 3: Analysis of fabrics and trimsStep 4: Sourcing of similar fabrics and trims as per the testing results obtained Step 5: Testing of the purchased fabrics and trims

3


INTRODUCION


CMT

METHODOLOGYWORKStep 6: Analysis of deviation between the fabrics of the sample garment and the sourced fabric, on the basis of the test results of the sameStep 7: Preparation of measurement chartStep 8: Development of flow process chartStep 9: Pattern Development

4


INTRODUCION


CMT

METHODOLOGYWORKStep 10: Prototype Development (test fit in muslin fabric)Step 11: Alterations made in the developed patternsStep 12: Cutting of the fabrics as per the altered patternStep 13: Garment DevelopmentStep 14: Comparison of CMT (Cut Make Trim) for tailor-made and mass manufactured

5


INTRODUCION


CMT

DESCRIPTIONSTYLEBRAND : FM Dresses MERCHANDISE GROUP : Party Wear THEME : Fantasia SELLING PERIOD : Summer 2006BODY TYPE : Female Kids wear SIZE RANGES : 3-14SAMPLE SIZE : Size 3

6


INTRODUCION


CMT

INDICATORFITHEIGHT : 36-38 1/2CIRCUMFERENCE : slimWEIGHT RANGE: 20-25 kgHEAD CIRCUMFERENCE: 19 3/4

7

FABRICTRIMSMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET

INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

DESCRIPTIONFABRIC

FABRIC 1

FABRIC 2FABRIC 3

FABRIC 4FABRIC 5

8

MATERIAL NAMEBukram(starchedcotton) [Code F1] Polyester fabric [Code F2] Glass Tissue [Code F3] Glass Tissue [Code F4] Net [Code F5]VENDORHiralal and Sons F.D.Khan and Sons Ranglal Piramal Ranglal Piramal Mohammad Cap Mart VENDOR LOCATIONSecunderabad Abids, Hyderabad Charminar, Hyderabad Charminar, Hyderabad Charminar, Hyderabad MATERIAL DESCRIPTIONForms Innermost layer and give body. Forms the visible lining part. used as top layer at bottom used as ruffles and as top layer on sleeve used to add body to the garment COLOURWhite White White White WhiteFIBER CONTENTCotton Polyester Polyester Polyester NylonYARN TYPE4 ply fine yarn Filament Filament, Coaglative yarn Filament N/AWEAVEPlain weave Plain weave Plain weave Plain weave N/ACOUNT240 Ne 80 Ne 30 Ne, 120 Ne 30 Ne, N/AWEIGHT0.89 gsm 0.54 gsm 0.19 gsm 0.18 gsm 0.15 gsmSTRUCTURAL/APPLIED DESIGNNone N one geometrical square made with thick and thin yarns none Hexagonal meshFINISHEShighly starched softener wash softener wash softener wash softener washCARE INSTRUCTIONWash in cold water as can lose the stiffness use mild iron use mild iron use mild iron use mild ironQUANTITY1 meter 1 meter 1.5 mts 0.50 mts

DESCRIPTIONFABRIC

9

LOCAL SCOURCING PLACES OF

Abids

10

TRIMS

TRIMSMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET

INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

DESCRIPTIONTRIM

RIBBONZIPPERSEQUINSFUSED EDGELACEEMBROIDERED LACENET LACE

11

TRIMS


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

RIBBONDESCRIPTIONTRIM

MATERIAL NAMERibbon Plastic Wire VENDORBombay Button Shop Hiralal & Sons VENDOR LOCATIONAbids, Hyderabad Secundrabad MATERIAL DESCRIPTIONplain satin ribbonTo finish the edge of ruffles COLOURWhiteWhite transparentSIZE width0.50 mmSTRUCTURAL/APPLIED DESIGNSatin weave N/AFINISHESPolished N/ACARE INSTRUCTIONuse mild iron N/AQUANTITY1 mts N/A

PLASTIC WIRE

12

ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTED GARMENT GARMENTTEST RESULTS- FABRIC 1

WEAVELIST OF EXPERIMENTSSAMPLE SIZEUNITSSAMPLE RESULTWARP WAYWEFT WAYBOTH WAYORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCED1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test 5 CottonCottonCottonCotton1.2 Chemical Test 1/2cmCottonCottonCottonCotton2 YARN TESTING 2.1 Yarn Count 10 cmsDenier2402502402502.2 Yarn Twist 10 cmsTwist/m1301341321352.3 EPI X PPI 1 X 1yarns344032382.4 Crimp 20 cm%111.21.23 FABRIC TESTING 3.1 Aesthetic test 3.1.1 Crease Recovery4 X 1.5 cmDegrees707271753.1.2 Pilling Test25X12.5cmgrade333.2 Durable Test 3.2.1 Tearing TestKg0.52160.54160.46880.42683.2.2 Thickness1.25 (diameter)mm0.1640.1603.2.3 Abrasion Test38mm (diameter)Weight Loss %3.533.433.3 Comfort Test 3.3.1 Stiffness25X2.5 cmmgcm0.210.210.030.030.080.083.4 Safety Test 3.4.1 Shrinkage Test10 X 10%2.52.2

13

TEST RESULTSCOMPARISON OF FABRICTRIMSMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET

INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

Fabric used in the actual garment is lesser stiff than the fabric used in the constructed garment.Fabric sourced is constructed with finer yarns.Fabric sourced has got a more compact construction.Tearing strength is more of the fabric strength.Conclusion: Fabric sourced is of better quality as required for a kids garment as it is the under layer of the garment which will be in constant contact of the body.

FABRIC 1ORIGINALSOURCED

14


WEAVELIST OF EXPERIMENTSSAMPLE SIZEUNITSSAMPLE RESULTWARP WAYWEFT WAYBOTH WAYORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCED1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test 5 PolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester1.2 Chemical Test 1/2cmPolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester2 YARN TESTING 2.1 Yarn Count 10 cmsDenier808070702.2 Yarn Twist 10 cmsTwist/m00002.3 EPI X PPI 1 X 1yarns646844483 FABRIC TESTING 3.1 Aesthetic test 3.1.1 Crease Recovery4 X 1.5 cmDegrees135.331371201243.1.2 Pilling Test25X12.5cmgrade553.2 Durable Test 3.2.1 Tearing TestKg0.85330.87220.74130.76133.2.2 Thickness1.25 (diameter)mm0.1700.143.2.3 Abrasion Test38mm (diameter)Weight Loss %2.562.363.3 Comfort Test 3.3.1 Stiffness25X2.5 cmmgcm0.2960.2560.050.040.2960.113.4 Safety Test 3.4.1 Shrinkage Test10 X 10%00

15


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

Fabric sourced is less stiffer than the fabric used in the original garment.Construction of the fabric sourced is compact with the use of finer yarns.Fabric sourced has got better hand and drapability.Conclusion: Fabric sourced is for a high quality garment and will best suit a kids garment.


16


WEAVELIST OF EXPERIMENTSSAMPLE SIZEUNITSSAMPLE RESULTWARP WAYWEFT WAYBOTH WAYORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCED1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test 5 PolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester1.2 Chemical Test 1/2cmPolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester2 YARN TESTING 2.1 Yarn Count 10 cmsDenier301203030120302.2 Yarn Twist 10 cmsTwist/m00002.3 EPI X PPI 1 X 1yarns10410755583 FABRIC TESTING 03.1 Aesthetic test 3.1.1 Crease Recovery4 X 1.5 cmDegrees104.7107.7101.33104.333.1.2 Pilling Test25X12.5cmgrade553.2 Durable Test 3.2.1 Tearing TestKg0.3200.3800.6880.7213.2.2 Thickness1.25 (diameter)mm0.880.843.2.3 Abrasion Test38mm (diameter)Weight Loss %2.822.223.3 Comfort Test 3.3.1 Stiffness25X2.5 cmmgcm0.070.0720.050.050.060.093.4 Safety Test 3.4.1 Shrinkage Test10 X 10%O0

17


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

Fabric sourced has single type of yarn with more compact construction and better tearing strength.Conclusion: Fabric sourced has only one type of yarn while the fabric used in actual garment has 2 type of yarns(thick and thin), due to un availability of fabric.


18


WEAVELIST OF EXPERIMENTSSAMPLE SIZEUNITSSAMPLE RESULTWARP WAYWEFT WAYBOTH WAYORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCED1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test 5 PolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester1.2 Chemical Test 1/2cmPolyesterPolyesterPolyesterPolyester2 YARN TESTING 2.1 Yarn Count 10 cmsDenier302830282.2 Yarn Twist 10 cmsTwist/m00002.3 EPI X PPI 1 X 1yarns14815472802.4 Crimp 20 cm%00003 FABRIC TESTING 3.1 Aesthetic test 3.1.1 Crease Recovery4 X 1.5 cmDegrees99.33118.331031073.1.2 Pilling Test25X12.5cmgrade553.2 Durable Test 3.2.1 Tearing TestKg0.34130.54130.41070.61073.2.2 Thickness1.25 (diameter)mm0.590.623.2.3 Abrasion Test38mm (diameter)Weight Loss %3.893.203.3 Comfort Test 3.3.1 Stiffness25X2.5 cmmgcm0.070.030.050.030.060.053.4 Safety Test 3.4.1 Shrinkage Test10 X 10%00

19


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

Fabric sourced is less stiffer than the fabric used in the original garmentConstruction of the fabric sourced is compact with the use of finer yarns.Fabric sourced has got better hand, more lustre and drapability.Fabric sourced has different shade of white.Conclusion: Fabric sourced is of better quality with better hand and drapability.FABRIC 4ORIGINALSOURCED

20

ORIGINAL CONSTRUCTED GARMENT GARMENTTEST RESULTS- FABRIC 5LIST OF EXPERIMENTSSAMPLE SIZEUNITSSAMPLE RESULTWARP WAYWEFT WAYBOTH WAYORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCEDORIGINALSOURCED1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test5NylonNylonNylonNylon1.2 Chemical Test1/2cmNylonNylonNylonNylon2 FABRIC TESTING2.1 Needle Punch1 X 11651702.2 Durable Test2.3 Thickness1.25 (diameter)mm0.2310.2232.4 Aesthetic Test3 Shrinkage Test10 X 10%00

MESH STRUCTURE

21


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

FABRIC 5Mesh fabric sourced is of same quality as of the mesh fabric used in original garment

ORIGINALSOURCED

22

MEASUREMENTS

MEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

abcd

e

f

g

h

i

j

FRONT VIEW WITHa = Full Length of Frock = 23 inchb = Lower Bodice Fabric 5 = 12 inch c = Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 8 inchd = Upper Bodice = 123/8 inch e = Neck Depth = 5 inch f = Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 4 inchg = Second tier of drindle skirt = 18 inchh = Sleeve Round(Shoulder for Raglan Sleeve = 61/2 inchi = Shoulder Length = 4 inch j = Waist = 10 inch Waist drop = 1 inch

23

abcd

e

f

i

j

MEASUREMENTSBACK VIEW WITHa = Full Length of Frock = 23 inchb = Lower Bodice Fabric 5 = 12 inch c = Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 8 inchd = Upper Bodice = 123/8 inch e = Neck Depth = 5 inch f = Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 4 inchi = Shoulder Length = 4 inch j = Waist = 10 inch Waist drop = 1 inchMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET


INTRODUCION


CMT

FABRIC

24

DATE: 04-10-07STYLE NUMBER: 007NAME: PARTY WEAR FROCKMERCHANDISE GROUP : PARTY WEAR S.NO.MEASUREMENTSIZE(3)SELLING PERIOD: SUMMER 20061.Waist Circumference (TM)SKETCH: FRONT AND BACKa) Relaxed22b) Extended221/22.Bust223/43.Hip223/44.Centre Length:a) Front81/4b) Back105.Full Lengtha) Front103/4b) Back101/46.Side Length53/47.Waist to Knee128.Cap Height41/89.Biceps63/8

25

10.Across Shouldera) Front51/8b) Back53/811. Shoulder Slopea) Front105/8b) Back101/412.Waist Arca) Front51/2b) Back47/813:Hip Arca) Front55/8b) Back51/2ALL MEASUREMENT IN INCHES

26



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

CMT

FABRIC

DEVELOPMENT

DEVELOPMENT

MAKINGPATTERNCOMPONENTNO. OF PIECESCUTTINGMATERIALLower bodice(Circular skirt Structure)2Cut with face one wayF12F22F32F42F5Front bodice1Cut with C. F. on fold F11F2Back bodice2Cut with face either wayF12F22F3Shoulder strip2Cut with face one wayF2sleeve2Cut with face either wayF22F3Strips for making ruffles-Cut with face one wayF4

27

FRONTBACK

28

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

S026S005S004

S010S009S008

S002S012S016S015S013S014S011S001S022S021S020S019S018S017FRONTBACKSLEEVESUPPER BODICELOWER BODICE

S006

S007

S023

S024

S025

S003

BREAKDOWNOPERATION

29

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

DESCPITIONSEAMM/CPico F2 hemlinePico SNLS Pico F3, F4 hemline with plastic wire PicoSNLSPico Strips for sleeves and strip (to be attached to lower bodice 2nd layer) with plastic wire PicoSNLS

Stitch the spaghetti strip from inside and then turn Plain seam SNLS Attach fused edge lace strip on F2 fabric (upper bodice) (front) Plain seam SNLS

OPERATION NO. S001S002S003 S004 S005

30

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

DESCPITIONSEAMM/CStitch the neckline sandwiching the spaghetti strip(F1,F2,embroidered lace, fused edge lace)Plain seam SNLS Turn and press from back Plain seam SNLS Attach F3, F1 and F2 around the back neckline for both back pieces Plain seam SNLS Turn and press to finish neckline Pressing tableAttach zipper Plain seam SNLS

OPERATION NO. S006S007S008S009S010

31

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

DESCPITIONSEAMM/CAttach F1 side seam Plain seam SNLS Finish hemline for F1 Turn n stitch SNLS Attach F2 side seam Plain seamSNLS Attach side seam Plain seam SNLS Attach five layers with a securing stitch so that they are togetherPlain seam SNLS Attach two decorative ruffles at each side of centre front on F2Plain seam SNLS

OPERATION NO. S011S012S014S015S016S013

32

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

DESCPITIONSEAMM/CPico at sleeve hem with F2 and F3 together and a plastic wire inserted Plain seam SNLS Pico shoulder part of raglan sleeve with both F2 and F3 intact Pico SNLS Attach elastic at 1 from finished sleeve hemline Plain seamSNLS Make a loop at shoulder side for inserting elastic Plain seam SNLS Give safety stitch at ends to hold elastic Plain seam SNLS


33

FLOW PROCESSCHART


INTRODUCION

DEVELOPMENT

CMT

FABRIC

FLOW PROCESS CHART

DESCPITIONSEAMM/CAttach ruffles of F4 to sleeves of F2 and F3 Plain seam SNLS Attach sleeve with front and back Pico SNLS Stitch side seam with ribbons inserted Plain seamSNLS Attach lower part and bodice together Plain seam SNLS Over lock waist round Overlock O/V mc


34



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

CMT

FABRIC

DEVELOPMENT

DEVELOPMENT

211111221

11

2

21 = Plain Seam Stitch Type=301 2 = Overedge Stitch (PICO) with insertion of plastic wireSEAMS & STITCHESFRONT VIEW WITH

35

SEAMS & STITCHES

211111221

11

2

21 = Plain Seam Stitch Type=301

2 = Overedge Stitch (PICO) with insertion of plastic wire

BACK VIEW WITHMEASUREMENTSPEC SHEET


INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

CMT

FABRIC

DEVELOPMENT

DEVELOPMENT

36



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

CMT

FABRIC

DEVELOPMENT

DEVELOPMENT

GATHERING ZIPPER ATTACHMENTPLAIN SEAM TURN AND STITCH(at the hem of Fabric 1(Bukram)) STITCH TYPE=301 DIAGRAMILLUSTRATED

37



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

ITEMDESCRIPTIONCOST (in INR)Fabric 1 100% cotton, 38 25.00Fabric 2 100% polyester, 40 36.00Fabric 3 100% polyester, 40 220.00 Fabric 4100% polyester, 40 62.50Fabric 5 Mesh, 100% Nylon, 36 26.25

TRIMMAKECOSTMATERIALCOST

38



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

ITEMDESCRIPTIONCOST (in INR)Embroidered Lace 100% Nylon, 6 20.00Net Lace 100% Nylon, 1 20.00Lace (fused edge) 100% Nylon, 1 15.00 Threads Poly cotton, 2 ply, Z-twist 9.00Sequins Plastic, diameter 1.20

TRIMMAKECOSTMATERIALCOST

39



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

ITEMDESCRIPTIONCOST (in INR) Zipper 9 regular plastic zipper 10.00Ribbon satin ribbon 2.00Label (size, care) Woven taffeta - Others Stationery50.50TOTAL 497.45

MATERIALCOSTTRIMMAKECOST

40



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

OPERATIONTIME(in hours)COST (in INR) Pattern Making 4 60.00Cutting2 24.00Pico (given to fabricator) 70.00Sewing 330.60Finishing 1.80Overhead 140.00TOTAL 326.40

PRODUCTIONCHARGESTRIMMAKECOST

41



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

TRIMMAKECOSTTOTALCOST=MATERIAL COST+PRODUCTION CHARGES=497.45 + 326.40 = 823.85 INR = 10 % of total cost incurredPROFITMARGIN= 82.39 INR= (10/100) * 823.85

42



INTRODUCION

FLOW PROCESS CHART

FABRIC

CMT

CMT

DEVELOPMENT

TRIMMAKECOSTMass Manufactured Company : Angelguard International Location : Chennai, Tamil Nadu Quoted Price : Rs. 611.00Company : Fairchild Industries Location : New Delhi Quoted Price : Rs. 649.00

43

ENCOUNTEREDCHALLENGES Sourcing of fabric

Marking the pattern on the glass tissue fabrics

Pattern marks getting faded

Cutting of the sheer fabrics

Finishing due to different drapability of the layers

44

ENCOUNTEREDCHALLENGESSEWING CHALLENGES

Even distribution of ruffles on the sleeves

Occurrence of unwanted gathers and puckering while stitching the different layers

Stitching of side seams due to the bulk

45

CONCLUSIONThe subject of Product Analysis & Development has Imparted the hands on experience of analyzing a product in the market and to develop it in its original form keeping in mind the various parameters. Most of the part of the subject gave us a practical insight -Ability to identify and analyse Fabric and Trims, its properties, sources and price-Quality Control of Raw Material and Garment by using correct and effective information-Ability to develop and interpret Specification Sheets and working on patterns with Construction Details with them.-Quality Control of Garment by using correct and effective information on Patterns and Construction-Ability to source or develop the Product

46

YOUTHANK

47

product analysis development

Documents