press release - 2011 vintage
TRANSCRIPT
Press Pack
Vintage
2011Press Contact:Lettres de ChâteauxMarie-Stéphane Malbec12, rue d’Enghien - 33000 Bordeaux - [email protected]: +33 (0)5 56 44 63 50 - Fax: +33 (0)5 56 44 69 45
20112011
Summary
2011 harvest in BordeauxA crazy vintage 3
2011 vintage in the Bordeaux appellationsChâteau Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Haut-Médoc 4Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Médoc 5Château Pédesclaux, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Pauillac 7Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Saint-Julien 10Château Belle-Vue, Château de Gironville, Crus Bourgeois - Haut-Médoc and Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur 13Château Lilian Ladouys, Cru Bourgeois - Saint-Estèphe 15Château Paveil de Luze, Cru Bourgeois - Margaux, and Pont Rouge du Paveil - Bordeaux 18Château de Lamarque - Haut-Médoc 21Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé - Graves 23Château de Rouillac - Pessac-Léognan 24Château Soutard - Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé 26Château de Pressac - Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 27Château Rouget - Pomerol 28Château La France, Bordeaux Supérieur 30Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Sauternes 32
2010 vintage in LanguedocVignobles Lorgeril - Languedoc 34
2011 vintage in ProvenceChâteau Lauzade - Côtes de Provence 36
2011 vintage in Burgundy« Pleasure first and foremost » 38Maison Louis Jadot - Burgundy 39
2011 Vintage in foreign vineyards, Languedoc and Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) EstatesChâteau d’Aussières - Corbières 40Viña Los Vascos - Chile 40Bodegas Caro - Argentina 41
2011 vintage in LebanonChâteau Marsyas 42
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20113
2011 harvest in Bordeaux
A crAzy vintAge
Decidedly, the 2011 vintage will remain in wine growers’ memories as one resembling nothing previously encountered. Because of the year’s unpredictable and capricious weather, the mood in the cellars of Bordeaux swung between fear and hope. For more than 6 months, at times anxious, at others ecstatic, winemakers scanned the skies, without doubt examining their vines with as much concern as a gardener inspecting his roses every morning.
Winter began with the normal cold snap, but by February spring had arrived to stay. By April, even summer had made its appearance, with unprecedented heat lasting until June. The first six months of 2011 were the warmest in Bordeaux in the past 60 years. At the same time vineyards received only a third of the usual rainfall for the period.
In July the situation changed completely, with the coldest recorded temperatures for that month in thirty years halting the spectacular progress the vegetation had undergone in the wake of early flowering at the beginning of May. Light rain showers cooled the dried-out vineyards, though they also brought the risk of unwelcome rot. August proved averagely warm, with its customary thunderstorms putting increased pressure from cryptogrammic parasites upon the vines. The good winegrower had to work relentlessly in the vineyard, getting as much air as possible to the grapes and treating when necessary.
September began poorly. There was more rain and low morale among growers. Then another dramatic change came on September 10th with summer’s sudden return, followed by three weeks of perfect sun and very hot days.
Médoc châteaux benefitted the most (as their Cabernets were harvested with perfect ripeness) as did Saint-Emilion producers who had waited for blue skies and optimal grape maturity.
In short, the 2011 Bordeaux vintage was one of the earliest in history, with the first whites being picked on August 18th and the entire harvest being completed before the end of September at some of Pauillac’s most prestigious Crus.
Most probably the wines will not be comparable to the three previous years, which are more consistent and marked by a different climatic conditions, although one thing remains certain: dry white and, above all, sweet white wines did not suffer from the weather.
2011 20114
Philippe Dambrine,Managing Director of Château Cantemerle,Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Haut-Médoc,Château Haut-Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé,Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classéand Château Le Jurat, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
We certainly won’t forget the 2011 vintage.
At first it looked like being a very early year, then became complicated and
capricious, and finally delivered surprising quality.
The weather in a few words: three months of drought from April to June, peak
temperatures in July, then cool but dry conditions in August, followed by a few
localised thunderstorms as the harvest approached. The harvest came in with a
small yield about ten days ahead of the normal date. After meticulous sorting,
the grapes produced exceptionally rich wines. Very intense colour, concentrated
and mature tannins and good acidity.
The wines that are now in the cellar have everything to age well. The way they
mature in barrel will, nevertheless, be the determining factor to give the true
dimension of this very fine vintage in the making.
20115
Ludovic David,General Manager of Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé in 1855 - Margaux David Houdet, Vineyard ManagerJulien Brahmi, Cellar Master
The vintage was marked by problematic weather conditions, including drought,
high temperatures, hail and excess water in August. Solid vineyard management,
however, such as the right pruning strategy, regulated leaf removal, and careful
thinning out on certain parcels, enabled us to obtain good maturity and meet the
quality targets we had set ourselves.
Since the beginning of October 2010, average rainfall in the Gironde had been a
mere 660 mm. In spite of heavy rains, there was an overall deficit exceeding 250mm
compared to the thirty-year average.
The exceptionally mild spring, with April temperatures averaging 15.5°C, encouraged
rapid, early growth. The first leaves emerged in April, roughly ten days earlier
than in recent years. The first flowers in early May, as well as initial verasion
at the beginning of July, confirmed that we were 2 to 3 weeks ahead of schedule.
July and August weather, however, slowed veraison. Recorded rainfall during these
two months proved higher than the seasonal average, with temperatures remaining
cool. Summer changed things and the vintage was not as early as might have been
predicted. A summer-like spring and a spring-like summer made this vintage
viticulturally very distinctive indeed.
For David Houdet, Vineyard Manager, “This year’s weather made vineyard monitoring
complicated. Hail did not spare the vines when it hit on May 9th, ripping some
leaves in early flowering, then again on June 4th, causing much more damage to the
whole property. We also observed significant coulure on the Merlots and Cabernets,
probably due to cool nights and very hot days (2 to 3° higher than average).
Lack of water produced a small yield, particularly for the Cabernet. From July
to September there was more rain and less sun. The success of this vintage was
down to the excellent condition of the grapes, which enabled us to wait for the
optimal time to harvest: September 15th.”
The threat of grey rot remained serious following the August rains and it was
important to take calculated risks between the balance of maturity and the
development of grey rot already present in late August.
201120116
We began harvesting the Merlot on September 20th, continuing until the afternoon
of the 22nd in fine sunshine.
We stopped for a full week and began once again on Friday, September 30th for the
Petit Verdot. On October 3rd we turned our attention to the Cabernet Sauvignon;
this way we were able to take a good break after the Merlot harvest to wait for
optimal maturity that was crucial for the Cabernet Sauvignon in 2011. We were
rewarded with fine smooth tannins.
The week of the 26th to the 30th September saw the return of summer-like
temperatures, (ranging from 23°C to 30°C), which blocked all progress of grey
rot and completed the ripening process.
The Cabernet Sauvignon harvest from October 3rd to the 6th took place in perfect
temperatures, enabling us to obtain excellent maturity.
For Julien Brahmi, Cellar Master, “Our sorting system, based on densityand put
in place in 2009, fully demonstrated its role this year, particularly on the
Merlot. Most were fully matured but the ripening was uneven, so we were able
to eliminate some pink berries immediately. More than ever, the harvesting
strategy, as well as perfect control over state-of-the-art techniques, produced
beautiful, colourful wines with good structure and mature tannins. 2011 was a
somewhat complicated yet promising vintage.”
For Ludovic David, General Manager, “2011 once again proved that terroir quality
is key in these atypical years. The team effort at Château Marquis de Terme,
coupled with the patience required to obtain full maturity, places this vintage
in line with its older brothers, 2009 and 2010.”
With its excellent fruit and balance, the 2011 should provide very enjoyable
drinking over the years to come, joining other great Margaux wines with long
ageing potential.
20117
Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical Manager of Chateau PédesclauxGrand Cru Classé en 1855 - Pauillac
2011, A technicAl chAllenge
General Characteristics of the 2011 Vintage
Extremes of weather and rare early development characterised the 2011 vintage.
An exceptionally hot, dry spring (the warmest on record for the past 50 years)
enabled the first flowers to make their appearance four weeks ahead of schedule.
Vineyard growth, however, slowed until mid July due to water stress, requiring
flexibility during green operations when the work had to be staggered and
repeated.
Scorching hot days were a feature of 2011 (maximum highs of 39°C on June 26th
and 27th), which led to light scorching of some of the Cabernet Sauvignon. July
and August brought mixed weather, July being cool and rainy, whereas August was
hot and sunny, bringing with it gradual maturation.
Vineyard Management
Key Word: adapt.
The unstable weather meant we had to keep constant watch over the vineyard, with
decisions changing from day-to-day on how best to manage the canopy.
Special vigilance also had to be maintained regarding botrytis; because of extreme
grape sensitivity, we began leave removal on the second side in August.
Heavy rainfall on September 1st was followed by moderate temperatures that lead
to good skin and pip maturation, as well as the development of intense, complex
aromas. At that point, technical ripeness (sugar/acid ratio) was then close to
phenolic ripeness.
2011 2011
Harvest
Favourable weather conditions throughout the campaign meant that the 2011 vintage
proved exceptionally early and we started harvesting 15 to 17 days earlier than
usual.
We picked the Merlot from September 12th through to September 21st, the Cabernet
Franc from September 14th to 22nd and, finally, the Cabernet Sauvignon from
September 21st until September 27th.
The aim was to pick as quickly as possible, sequencing from one variety to
another. It was essential to take advantage of the small window of opportunity
between perfect maturity and the arrival of botrytis. Huge stress for a very
encouraging result!
New for 2012: tailored harvesting. On one plot we actually harvested the middle
before the sides. Moreover, following the pedological study we carried out in
2010, we selected each type of soil and zoned the areas based on vine growth.
Following the excellent results of recent years, we again harvested by hand,
using shallow 8kg crates, and then put the grapes into cool storage for 24 hrs
to reduce and even out the temperature.
We then had the crop carefully sorted (before and after soft de-stemming) by a
team of 40 people. This eliminated every green berry that had not ripened due to
the extreme heat, which blocks the ripening process.
Vinification
This year, we maintained gravity vatting without crushing the grapes. We began
this method in 2009 to avoid grape trituration, enhance the fruit and obtain soft
tannins by gentle, progressive extraction. We also ran off the vats and punched
the cap during fermentation.
In 2011, we wanted to go further with the gravity system, so we also funneled
100% of the wines into barrel by gravity.
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2011
Maturing
For the 2011 vintage we used 60% of new barrels and 40% of barrels already used
for one wine. We work with 7 different barrel makers which, in turn, will also
contribute to enhancing the fruit.
2011, A New Level of Quality Attained
In 2009, the technical team began laying the groundwork with a massive programme of
work in the vineyard. But it is only when the vintage is technically challenging,
as in 2011, that we can really measure what the current team has achieved. For
Pedesclaux, the 2011 has kept its promise: the result of our work transcends the
vintage.
Although 2009 and 2010 were unanimously acclaimed, 2011 is denser and more
powerful. The high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the
blend has enabled us to obtain more power and intensity, thus enhancing the fruit
and the finesse of the tannins, so characteristic Pédesclaux’s terroir.
The qualitative revolution at Pédesclaux is thus well under way. The 2011, is
more accomplished than 2009 and 2010 and stands up to comparison brilliantly.
Wine Characteristics
Château Pédesclaux: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc
Fleur de Pédesclaux: 100% Merlot
Proportion: 60% of the harvest went into the Grand Vin and 40% into the second
wine.
Le Haut-Médoc de Pédesclaux: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot
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2011 201110
Christian HosteinVineyard Manager of Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Saint-Julien de Beychevelle
The vines’ extraordinarily early phenologic state, in particular the
date of mid-flowering (May 12th), is closely linked to the atypical
spring that we experienced in 2011.
Between April and May there were 61 days of fine, dry weather, and the
vines took full advantage of them to develop!
Subsequently, in the key month of June, vegetation slowed and July and
August took its toll on vines that had shallow root systems or were on
shallow terroirs.
Fortunately, after growth had fallen back in June, fine autumn-like rain
provided deep soils with humidity. In certain cases the vines were able
to renew their growth cycles.
We had to adapt our methods by constantly monitoring and adapting work
in the vineyard in particular, cutting back the intense growth that
would be detrimental to quality - at least that is what we tried to
do!
On a beautiful, sunny September 23rd we picked the Petits Verdots, which
were at their peak; the fine Cabernets on the plateau would be ready the
following week.
Yesterday, at the first “official” tastings of the Merlots we had a
glimpse of good things to come (fullness, fat and opulence from old
Merlot vines, reminiscent of 2005).
In short, 2011 was heavily influenced by the break in the weather in
June. Between April and May our wine-growing operations (leaf-thinning)
responded to an almost Mediterranean type of development in the vines,
whereas the months of July and August, with very typical maritime weather
conditions were more in line with what we are used to in Bordeaux.
Talbot, Friday 23rd September 2011
201111
As the year ends, it is time to assess the 2011 vintage and draw some
conclusions.
In early December, we were happy to see beneficial rains and southwesterly
winds had returned to the Médoc. These are so necessary to the vines’
health and are the link between the forest-covered dunes and vineyards
along the estuary. The year closes, however, with a significant shortfall
in precipitation (approximately 500 mm) and we predict a rainy winter
to refill the water table.
N.B: July and August were the most ‘generous’ months!
The harvest was completed on September 28th, with nicely ripe Cabernet
Sauvignon on the plateau. The yield was limited by the year’s specific
climatic constraints: spring drought putting significant stress on the
vines, early flowering followed by a heat wave that sometimes caused
scorching (June 26th: 40°C).
The wines are now in new barrels that are housed in our brand new
cellars.
Blendings are planned for January and unless we get advice from our
consultant oenologists to the contrary, things seem quite defined, with
the noble terroirs seeming to have performed better than lesser plots, as
2011’s exceptional weather highlighted water management as an essential
element in great vineyards.
January: 26 mm
February: 50 mm
March: 36 mm
April: 11 mm
May: 26 mm
June: 32 mm
July: 59 mm
August: 72 mm
September: 42 mm
October: 41 mm
November: 24 mm
December: 50 mm to date
2011 201112
Harvest Dates:
7th – 8th – 9th September: Harvest of Merlot plots and trials of a new
reception machine with automatic bin-flipping capability.
12th – 13th – 14th – 15th – 16th September: Picking of best Merlots and
Cabernet Sauvignons.
20th – 21st – 22nd – 23rd: Cabernet Sauvignon harvested around the Talbot
plateau.
26th – 27th –28th: Cabernet Sauvignon on the plateau were harvested.
Talbot, Tuesday 20th December 2011
201113
Isabelle Mulliez Manager of Château Belle-Vue, Cru Bourgeois - Haut-Médoc, Château de Gironville, Cru Bourgeois - Haut-Médoc, Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur, Jean-Michel Marle, Operations Director, Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical manager
2011, A demAnding vintAge!
Exceptional weather
2011 was marked by an outstanding hot and dry spring, which led to a fast and early growth of the vine. First buds appeared more than four weeks in advance, compared with average year.
Nevertheless, the important hydric restrictions slowed down the vine’s growth and from May the vegetation began stagnating. Hence operations during the vine’s growth were tactful, with repeated and laid tying-up.
The heat wave during 26th & 27th of June (+39°C) had an impact on Macau’s soils with a scald on Cabernet Sauvignon (Dryness of berries and several stalks).
July and August were contrasted with a decrease of earliness. Veraison was fast for Cabernets Sauvignons but certain berries, blocked, didn’t ripen.
Berries’ sensitivity to Botrytis (skin with a sign of high membranous permeability) plus rainy days (1st of September) led to a strong local pressure on certain plots.
Thanks to high minimal temperatures during the early fifteen days of September, skin’s maturation was fast: technologic maturity of berries was closer to phenolic maturity than in 2009 and 2010 (gap of a few days).
The precocity of 2011 vintage was assessed 15 to 17 days, compared to year 2010 (harvest dates).
201114
2011
Dense harvest, varieties coming in a pretty close agenda
From September 10th to 26th, Merlots Noirs were harvested, then Cabernets Sauvignons from Sept 22nd to 1st of October, finally Petits Verdots from Sept 26th to 1st of October.
Due to berries’ sensitivity to botrytis, we had to manage risks real time, anticipating, reacting quickly and harvesting between the state of willing maturity and the sanitary damage of grapes. Pretty stressful for a promising result!
2011 was favorable to Cabernets Sauvignons and Petits Verdots which enjoyed good weather in September and endured well the exceptional hydric constraints. Some Merlot may suffer hydric stress before reaching full maturity.
At cellar, we did a drastic selection to eliminate green berries (du to heat wave). Wine making is long with cold pre-ferment maceration, (<5°C during more than 3 weeks). Then, alcoholic fermentation is exclusively managed by gravity release (no pumping-over). Final phase, a long post ferment maceration around 25 days at 28°C.
Everything was done to value and express the full potential of berries. Total maceration in vats is around 8 to 9 weeks, ensuring wine stability and high quality of tannins.
Our capacity to make audacious choices is worth again. Wines show superb tannins concentration and density. Thanks to the power and high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, these wines are promising to be among the best wines in the area.
Report
Variable climatology along 2011 led to a dynamic vineyard management. Thanks to a perfect control of each step, wines’ potential was expressed. A new year with great achievement.
Wines with a deep personality, flavored and sweet, in the three properties. A true class which perpetuates the excellence goal left by Vincent Mulliez.
201115
Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical Manager of Château Lilian LadouysCru Bourgeois – Saint-Estèphe
2011, A rock’n roll vintAge
General Characteristics of the 2011 Vintage
The 2011 vintage, which turned out to be the hottest year in France
since 1900,
will be remembered for its extremes of weather.
Spring proved hot, dry and sunny, leading to very quick, early vine
growth to the extent that flowering occurred 4 weeks earlier than
usual.
At the beginning of May, significant hydric stress slowed growth.
Consequently, we had to be extra careful regarding ‘green’ operations,
repeating and staging the work.
Due to very contrasting weather in July and August, veraison occurred in
two phases but from July 20th, thanks to favorable weather conditions,
it was quick and consistent for the Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the vineyard
Throughout the 2011 vintage, we had to work fast and be vigilant.
Because of the mild weather, any green operation sparked off debate:
should we remove leaves or not? On both sides? Or only one? Every
day threw our decisions into question. We also had to contend with
the presence of botrytis and the skins’ particular sensitivity to it
required special care.
Hail and heavy rains hit the south and east sectors of the Saint Estèphe
appellation on September 1st. As our plots are fragmented, we managed to
limit the impact of the damage and although there was some berry burst
among the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon on certain plots, which led to
smaller yields, fortunately they were not downgraded.
162011
We decided, however, to begin harvesting on September 3rd, to bring in
the slightly damaged Merlot – something that required a rapid response
from the technical team, because we had to complete preparation of the
cellars within 36 hours and call in all the teams to be able to harvest
as of the weekend of September 3rd and 4th.
Harvest
Thus, we began harvesting the Merlot from September 3rd, 2011 until the
16th, the Cabernet Franc on September 13th and 14th and, finally, the
Cabernet Sauvignon from September 13th to 23rd.
The challenge was to harvest each variety in as short time a time as
possible, obtaining desired maturity but getting the grapes in before
they could be spoiled. Careful sorting was necessary, however, before
and after destalking.
Vinification
Work, speed and investment were the year’s leitmotifs!
We had to bleed the tanks several times to obtain high quality wines.
The more mature Merlot turned out to be very good in this particular
vintage but the best was the Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested during the
second half of September, which provided truly excellent wines.
Ageing
This year we are using 35% new barrels, which should improve our wines.
We have had such remarkable results with Burgundy coopers, such as
François Frères or Cadus, that we contracted some of them for the 2011
vintage.
2011
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2011: when flexibility rhymes with success
Above all, 2011 emphasised team work and know-how; by adapting the
vinification process, the wines gained power and concentration while
preserving fruit. With deep colour, intense aromas and very pleasant
balance on the palate, Lilian Ladouys 2011 is a wonderful achievement.
Wine Characteristics
Château Lilian Ladouys 2011: 70% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon,
Devise de Lilian 2011: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot
Proportion: 60% of harvest made into Grand Vin and 40% into the second
wine
2011 201118
Frédéric de Luze,Owner of Château Paveil de Luze, Cru Bourgeois - Margauxand Pont Rouge du Paveil, Bordeaux
Spring and summer weather proved unpredictable.
In June we took the tail end of the hailstorm that devastated part of the
Margaux appellation. It was only two weeks later that we were able to estimate
the true damage, which turned out to be greater than initial assessments.
The severe drought, combined with record temperatures (+ 38°C) had us thinking
we were in for an early year, like 2003, and the high temperatures had caused
some scorching of berries that were unprotected by foliage.
Since there were so few grapes, we decided not to thin out and do only a light
green harvest on a few Merlot plots.
In late July, very heavy rainfall caused rapid swelling in the grapes and the humid
weather, with below normal seasonal temperatures, then slowed development.
Around September 10th we began preparing the cellars for harvest.
On August 24th, while I was in China with a delegation from the Médoc Crus
Bourgeois, where we successfully presented the 2008 vintage, we harvested our
small plot of Sauvignon Blanc. We obtained a single barrel!
On September 6th Stéphane Derenoncourt and Simon Blanchard visited us for a first
look at the Merlots. We needed to wait and decided to begin picking on September
19th. The gravely soil plots had suffered and the signs were that this was going
to be a very small vintage.
13 long days of hot, stormy weather ensued, and we trembled with each peal of
thunder. We had to calm the worried teams, as all around us the region was in
full harvest. It is more than likely that our surprise guest, botrytis, had a
role to play in this unrest!
We finally did begin picking on September 19th, though at a snail’s pace and not
for long each day. There was a sense of unease with the threat of botrytis ever
present, despite the drying wind.
201119
But then, as in 2010, we enjoyed magnificent weather. It was summer again, with
30°C temperatures and the nights not even cool; fortunately our refrigerating
units proved efficient enough to cool the harvest.
On September 24th we harvested the Cabernet Franc and stopped picking on Sunday
25th.
After running-off for a while, the first vats quickly began fermentation and
when we began pumping-over, beautiful colour and very attractive aromas were
immediately in evidence.
From the 26th we moved on to the Cabernet Sauvignon, a real jewel, with highly
concentrated juice. It had been worth the wait.
Harvesting ended Saturday, October 1st.
Work in the cellar began in earnest, with ‘raw material’ that suggested
a surprising Paveil de Luze 2011! Fermentations started very quickly, with
frequent but short pumping-over for soft extraction.
We obtained slightly less extract than last year but not dramatically so, since
the objective had been to bring the grapes to proper maturity and to extract
as thoroughly as possible since the skins were quite thick.
We macerated at high temperatures to obtain fat to coat the tannins during post-
fermentary maceration.
The new wine was rich and fat, and the daily tastings allowed us to extend
vatting time: our Cabernet Sauvignon remained in vats for 28 days!
Tasting prior to barreling:
Merlot Grand Vin: crimson with shades of bright ruby. Cherry fruit on the nose
and redcurrant with smoky notes so characteristic of good gravel terroir.
Mellow palate, plump and round with good tannic structure and a fresh finish.
2011 201120
Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin: crimson colour with tints of purple. Complex nose
of smoky blackcurrant and rose aromas. Fresh, clean front palate. Round and
structured with a long finish. Very good quality Cabernet, bringing a classic
touch to the ensemble.
2011 HARVEST DATES
August 24th : Sauvignon Blanc
September 19th to 26th : Merlot
September 24th : Cabernet Franc
September 26th to October 1st : Cabernet Sauvignon
201121
Marie-Hélène and Pierre-Gilles Gromand d’Evry, Château de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc
A consultant at Lamarque from 1963 to 1987, Professor Emile Peynaud, Bordeaux’s
father of modern oenology, constantly repeated, ‘It is with good grapes that
one makes good wine.’ It is a phrase one should never tire of repeating.
‘Good grapes’ are perfectly healthy and mature, resulting from a not too large
yield (relative to the number of plants per hectare). This provides the fruit
with the taste and flavours the wine grower requires before launching harvest
operations.
To obtain this ideal result, the weather must be in accord with the life of the
grape: in simplified terms, from pruning to harvest. The weather, however, can
be capricious, unexpected (despite weather forecasts) and totally independent
of the winegrower’s wishes. He must adapt and find solutions.
All this serves as a reminder that the 2011 vintage will be remembered as a
continual game of ‘hide and seek’ between the weather and the winegrower. In
other words, the weather often played an antagonistic role in the various
stages of the vine’s growth and the development of the grapes. 2011 was above
all a ‘winegrower’s vintage’. Experience, knowledge constant surveillance and
finding technical solutions to bring his grapes to harvest safely made all the
difference.
All this meant adapting work in the vineyard to the terroir’s structure (air,
nutriment and water circulation), proper grape-positioning (well-exposed and
properly oxygenated); limited but precise protective intervention (no preventive
treatments).
In the end, because the vines were in very good condition, we were able to wait
for full maturity to begin harvesting.
The harvest weather proved very favourable! We were able to start on Tuesday,
September 20th with the Merlot, then picked the old Merlot, our small quantity
of Cabernet Franc, and the Cabernet Sauvignon. We interrupted picking before
we brought in the Petit Verdot and returned, once again, for the last Cabernet
Sauvignon. We finished on Wednesday, October 5th with a couple of breaks and no
weekend work. In short, we took our time. The yield was 35hl/ha.
201122
2011
The easy pace of the harvest enabled us to perfectly sort the grapes, after de-
stemming, on our new vibrating sorting table. Vinification was easy (alcoholic
and malolactic fermentations being relatively quick). Pressing, one spinning
and one press.
Vintage characteristics:
Average alcohol: 13 degrees
Average IPT: 72
Acidity: 3.4 g/l
In short, a good balance.
Blending, with enologists Jacques and Eric Boissenot, has produced a breakdown of
70% ‘first wine’ (Château de Lamarque) and 30% ‘second wine’ (D de Lamarque).
As for previous vintages, the blend consists of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45%
Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. The Cabernet Franc can be found with the younger
Merlot in D of Lamarque.
The wines were all in barrel by mid December 2011. 100% of the harvest goes into
barrels from five French barrel makers. We use average toasting and a mixture
of 45% new oak, 40% of barrels already used for one wine and 15% already used
for two wines).
As of January 19th the 2011 vintage of Château de Lamarque shows: dark, dense,
garnet-red colour. Brilliant and clear. Nose still slightly dominated by oak,
although notes of vanilla and black fruit (blueberry and blackcurrant) are
already showing through. The palate is well balanced and has good structure;
it is intense, pleasant, very round and fruity, with a long finish.
If the 2009 and 2010 will remain unequalled for many years, the 2011 should be
well-ranked among the 2000 vintages, perhaps between 2006 and 2008.
201123
Eric Perrin, Owner of Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé - Graves
The most striking thing about the 2011 vintage was that it was so early; we
started harvesting the Sauvignon Blanc on August 18th!
Cool conditions in July provided pleasant acidity – a sign of typicity and
quality in white grapes – and overall the quality is very even. 2011 will
certainly be considered a great vintage for white wines.
Regarding the reds, we obtained very fruity Merlot, mainly on the cool, clayish-
chalky soils and also very concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon, which complement
each other nicely and have produced powerful, yet fine, elegant wines.
In spite of the atypical conditions, we made a classic vintage in 2011, in the
pure Bordeaux tradition.
2011 201124
Jean-Christophe Barron,Technical Manager of Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan
2011 vintAge: historicAl!
The exceptionally hot, dry spring lead to early budburst, flowering and
vegetative growth. In 2011 each spring day was a new page in history: we
saw the first Merlot buds on May 6th (unheard of); we contented ourselves
with 3 mm of rainfall in three months and at the end of spring the vines
were virtually a month ahead of where they are in a normal year.
Summer restored some order to this profusion of heat and drought. July,
in particular, proved one of the coldest in the past 50 years, comparable
to 1993, 1977 (ouch!!), but also to 1961 and 2000 (phew - there may still
be hope!)
In August, we even enjoyed an unexpected harvest of cep mushrooms from
the woods around Rouillac. While the cooks may well have rejoiced, the
winegrowers worried, all too aware of the threat of rot. We redoubled
our vigilance, using effective prophylactic treatments: systematic
leaf-removal on both sides of the vine plants and airing of compacted
bunches...
On August 25th, we began harvesting the white varieties, using a team of
20 harvesters who finished on September 1st.
September marked the beginning of an exceptionally mild Indian summer.
Picking of the red varieties, by 30 pickers, kicked-off on September 8th,
ending on the 22nd. Sorting proved crucial and each bunch underwent close
examination prior to continuing its path towards excellence.
For the 2011 vintage, the new mechanical cap-punching system was
providential, with polyphenol extraction proving exceedingly soft,
perfect for the 2011 crop.
Meantime, in the woods mushroom gatherers filled whole baskets, buckets,
wheelbarrows, trailers, freezers, trucks, boats… it was the harvest of
the millennium (the harvest of the century was in 2006).
201125
In the end 2011 proved a close call and we felt a mixture of feelings
during blending. It will be a difficult year to compare, as it has
something of 2006 about it, but also of ’76, ’85 and ’88.
Once again, the patient, painstaking labour of the wine grower who
knows how to adapt his methods to the whims of the weather, followed by
respect for the grapes in the cellar, provided a vintage with character,
generosity and aroma - much like our mushroom harvest.
2011 201126
Claire Thomas ChenardOperations Director and Enologist at Château Soutard,Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé
The end of winter and the beginning of spring showed a significant deficit
in rainfall.
Average temperatures for April and May were particularly high.
In the vineyard, these climatic conditions translated into:
- an early vintage
- significant symptoms of hydric stress and lack of minerals (particularly
potassium) apparent from very early in the year.
The heat wave of 26th and 27th June (temperatures reaching 40°C) led to
scorching that caused a reduction of 20 to 30% in yields (our assessment
at Soutard confirmed this). A second heat wave on August 20th and 21st had
no noticeable consequences, however.
The 20 mm of rainfall in July and 15 mm in August contributed to reviving
the vines’ metabolism and accelerated veraison. The lack of potassium,
however, was still observable.
Odium was present throughout this vintage but was kept in check with
periodic spraying.
There was more botrytis than in previous vintages. Certain plots were
affected around September 15th and we picked these early. After this,
the weather thankfully became drier and on the whole the grapes were in
good condition when they arrived at the cellar; the fine weather in late
September greatly contributed to this.
Soutard: 38 hl/ha
201127
Jean-François Quenin, Owner of Château de Pressac,Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
2011 was a year of extremes and heterogeneity. It was also hot and dry,
two essential factors for making quality wine.
A very warm spring started the vine cycle early. Temperatures peaked
around June 25th and 26th, damaging plots already weakened by water stress.
There was significant scorching on these plots and, consequently, reduced
yields.
The weather in July proved mediocre but hot, dry conditions returned in
August.
In September, there were some restorative showers but also, and more
worryingly, thunderstorms with hail, which caused significant damage in
certain vineyards. Pressac, thankfully, was not affected. There was a
single, large thunderstorm without hail, but this still weakened the
berries and botrytis was certainly lying dormant.
Harvesting was early (we started in Pressac in the week of September
19th i.e. about 10 days earlier than usual). In addition to the dangers
of botrytis, the main difficulty was uneven ripeness. The late June heat
appeared to have left traces, having damaged certain sap channels in the
grape clusters. We had to remove grapes that had not reached peak maturity
(green or rose-tinted). The optical sorting machine (acquired in 2009)
worked wonders here in 2011 – that and as one of our consultants remarked
‘the obsessive nature of sorting at Pressac in 2011.’
Vinification was trouble-free. Due to high level of alcohol on the one hand
and risk of heterogeneity in tannin maturity on the other, we extracted
gently (extraction primarily occurred early in the vinification process)
and did not macerate for too long.
As in 2010, we obtained opulent wines, where acidity is balanced with
tannic and alcoholic richness; these wines have everything needed for long
ageing.
January 15th 2012
2011 201128
Edouard Labruyère,Owner of Château Rouget, Pomerol
After early budburst in March, the vines suffered from dry weather and
high temperatures throughout spring. Vegetation was therefore significantly
advanced by early June, first with the leaves, then the berries, which
developed and turned colour quickly.
At the end of June the vines were three weeks ahead of where they
normally are at this time of the year. July and August slowed things down
considerably, as repeated rainfall decelerated the cycle by more than a
week. As is often the case, the weather became summerlike at the end of
August and through much of September, which allowed us to harvest under
optimal conditions.
The precocious vintage, combined with a dry spring, forced the vines to
go deep to obtain the best of their terroir and nourish the fruit. Summer
rainfall swelled the berries without causing them to split or be attacked
by botrytis. But this was only the case if the vineyard was under constant
surveillance and care. Never had we had so many vineyard hands on deck!
On the other hand, because of the dry weather the vines had to draw deeply
on their resources, thus weakening leaves and wood. Such weather meant
there was no room for error when it came to treating the vines: not too
early and staggered when the weather was dry and very sustained when the
weather turned wet in order to fight off disease. With temperatures almost
reaching 40°C, too much groundwork could have endangered the harvest. We
had to be ultra-careful not to intervene too much.
Because Rouget vinifies in small vats, we harvest plot by plot and then go
on to intra-plot harvesting, based on grape maturity levels within that
plot.
Picking was extended from September 19th for the young vines to October
4th for the latest ripening plots. Rouget is not a Sauternes but in the
largest plots, up to 6 pickings were required to ensure we had picked at
peak maturity.
201129
Ultimately, winegrowers found themselves with a vintage where there was
good maturity, if and only if they had delayed picking in order to obtain
alcoholic and phenolic maturity. The weather has resulted in higher
acidity than in 2009 or 2010 and the tannins are less opulent than in
those two vintages. The finesse of the wines, however, as well as the very
fine tannins will make it a favorite with connoisseurs. It is undoubtedly
a vintage for mature markets and for certain export markets; those who are
looking for hyper concentration will be disappointed. No recent vintage
is comparable to 2011, because none combines the levels of acidity and
maturity we had last year.
At Rouget, we are proud of our 2011, probably because the vineyard team
had to give it so much care, in extreme and unusual conditions. If you
compared it to a birth, I suppose you would say that we had to use the
forceps during delivery. 2011 will not show its charm immediately but will
age well, provided we demonstrate a little more patience than we had to
do with the 2009s and 2010s.
2011 201130
Bruno MottetOwner of Château La France, Bordeaux Superior
The 2011 vintage was affected by unusual, inconsistent weather, which
modified the vine growth cycle and consequently the work of the men and
women looking after the vines.
Drought
To talk about the 2011 vintage, we need to go back an entire year as, since
October 2010, the vine cycle was characterised by a lack of water. Lack
of rain lead to vine stress as early as the end of May 2011?. We observed
significant leaf drop and it was clear that the plants were suffering. This
shortage in rainfall not only led to a lack of water for the plants but
also to poor mineralisation of organic material in the soils.
Unbridled Growth Cycle
From the onset, spring 2011 put fast-paced pressure on growth in the vines.
Early, but above all exceptionally hot and dry, the spring forced us to
play catch-up with Mother Nature and manage the vineyard in ways that would
produce proper vine development.
One growth cycle followed another at break-neck pace. As early as the
first half of April, the first leaves appeared, followed by flowering in mid
May, with clusters closing around mid-June and the first berries turning
at beginning July. Veraison seemed imminent. All this confirmed that the
harvest would begin 2 or 3 weeks earlier than usual. We had to get
organised...
A cool, rainy month of July
Cool, rainy July weather, however, slowed things down. The vine cycle
struggled to re-balance. The plants recovered, drawing in the water they
needed. Now we had to wait for veraison… In early August it was complete
and we awaited perfect grape maturity. We closely followed the sugar and
acid balance, tasting the berries to assess aromatic maturity.
Waiting for harvest…
201131
On the afternoon of September 1st, the sky suddenly darkened, and heavy
rain began falling. The massive black clouds mercifully passed us by, with
the hail falling a few kilometers further on, around the villages of Branne
and Grézillac. For some, an entire year’s work was reduced to nothing by
a hailstorm; Mother Nature certainly knows how to bring us back to basics,
teaching us to put things in perspective.
The Harvest
Harvesting took place over the period of a month under friendly skies.
On August 29th we began harvesting the white varieties, beginning with
the Sauvignon. One week later we picked the Sémillon, which by then had
matured beautifully.
We began to bring in the red varieties on September 13th, starting with
the young Merlot plots. Three weeks later, on October 4th, we finished the
last plot of Cabernet.
First Impressions of the wines
The whites are pleasantly fresh, naturally sweet and have volume. Aromas
are already intense. White flowers and citrus fruit dominate.
The reds are vivid and intense, the nose dominated by very ripe, black
fruit aromas. They are round on the front palate with pleasant structure
and lots of black fruit flavours. The balanced tannins, sometimes a little
firm on the finish, will round down with time.
2011 201132
Xavier Planty, Manager of Château Guiraud Grand Cru Classé en 1855 – Sauternes
Spring 2011 was warm and dry. Early flowering led us to believe the harvest
would be 3 weeks early. However, cool weather in July slowed growth down
somewhat, and this was followed a wet, hot month of
August.
In the end, the harvest started 2 weeks ahead of time. The first day of
picking was on Thursday, 25 August for the dry white wine.
The month of September was ideal, with warm, sunny days and cool nights.
Conditions were optimum for the spread of botrytis, which concentrated
aromas while retaining good acidity.
Thanks to a north-easterly wind, this concentration was very rapid, and
we were able to start first and second passes in the vineyard as of the
2nd of September. The latter produced extremely fine grappes and was soon
followed by a 3rd and even a 4th and 5th pass in certain plots until 10
October, the last day of the harvest at Château Guiraud.
Picking took place for a total of 25 days (for the Sauternes) and was done
by nearly 100 people. The crop was small – barely 9 hl/ha this year – but
of superb quality. A hail storm on Easter Monday (25 April at 6 pm) led
to the estimated loss of 40% of the crop, and as much as 80% in certain
parts of the vineyard...
All the wine has finished fermenting by the 20th of October. Everything
went very quickly this year, incredibly quickly! The cool night-time
temperatures are beginning to clarify the wines. They already taste
remarkably good: concentrated, aromatic, and complex. The speed with which
the grapes became concentrated preserved magnificent vivaciousness. The
wines are truly brilliant. My neighbours are saying “it’s like 2001”...
but this remains to be seen.
An initial tasting with the associate owners will be held on Monday, 24
October
Xavier Planty, 21 October 2011
201133
Key figures
Beginning of the the harvest of «G», Château Guiraud’s dry white Bordeaux:
Thursday 25 August 2011
Beginning of the Sauternes harvest: Friday 2 September 2011
End of the harvest: Monday 10 October 2011
Number of days of picking: total = 31 (uniquely Sauternes = 25)
Average number of pickers each day of the harvest: 97
Yield of Sauternes: 9 hectolitres per hectare
2011 201134
Miren de LorgerilLorgeril Vineyards,Languedoc Roussillon
Summary of the 2011 Growth Cycle
At last! The return of normal rainfall enabled the vines to recover,
remain balanced throughout the vegetation and maturation cycles and
rebuild soil reserves. In our region, the most humid years are good
years!
The vines developed well and vegetation was very well balanced until
the eve of harvest, even if the bunches were not very large and resulted
in no more than average yields.
Summer proved pleasant without excess; there were no heat waves although
we did get our three ‘traditional’ thunderstorms. During the harvest
the weather was exceptional, with heavy rainfall in late September that
cooled things down, bringing clear skies, warm afternoons and thus easy
maturation. Subsequent day-night temperature differentials afforded
favorable aroma development.
Harvest Dates and Progress
In Cabardès, we started harvesting the rosé early (on September 20th)
and the Merlot at the end of September – again rather early.
The Syrah were next on all the estates. As in 2010, early ripening in
what are traditionally later varieties (Cabernet, Grenache, Mourvèdre)
led to a quick harvest in perfect weather conditions.
Harvest volumes were surprising: in Cabardès, despite an increase in
grape weight, juice quantities were as low as in 2010. On the other
hand, in the Roussillon, Minervois, Faugères and Saint-Chinian, we
returned to normal production figures with around 20% more than in 2010,
a tragically small year.
201135
What are the year’s characteristics?
The very ripe grapes yielded their aromas, colours and tannins readily,
making it easier for us to vinify with a light hand. More than last
year then, the wines are fruit-driven, fresh and elegant, but with good
structure and mellow tannins. In particular, we feel we have progressed
in Ciffre, in Roussillon and at La Livinière, with beautiful, expressive
intensity, preserved by very soft extraction. Fermentation was very
even, with no halts or acceleration.
201136
Nicolas Perolini,Operations Director at Château Lauzade,Côtes de Provence
Due to an extremely mild spring at the beginning of the vegetative cycle,
the vines had an advance of approximately 10 days on the 2010 vintage,
heralding an early year. This tendency could be observed throughout the
vegetative cycle, right up until flowering. Flowering occurred without
incident, with no coulure, even on the Grenache.
June and July were particularly cool, slowing the growth cycle, which meant
re-adjusting the projected harvest date, bringing it more in line with
recent vintages.
Both vines and grapes were healthy. Initial samples indicated a harvest
date in early September, around the 5th or 6th. However, this did not take
into account the sharp rise in temperatures that occurred in mid-August.
Sugar concentrations rose and consequently we had to bring the harvest
forward to August 31st.
Positive and Sensitive Aspects
In late July we had good rainfall that was beneficial to the vines, as hydric
stress would have been detrimental to harvest quality. We began picking
early and regularly and were thus able to anticipate a sudden acceleration
in maturity. The cellars were ready.
Harvest Date and Procedures
We started harvesting on August 31st with the Sémillon followed by the Rolle.
We then brought in the Grenache for the rosé. To obtain maximum maturity,
we kept the Syrah, destined for our reds under surveillance, while keeping
a close eye on the weather (rainfall at this stage of maturity could lead
to catastrophic consequences).
We harvested the Syrah at the end of the first half of September, then the
Cinsault (for the rosé). We only harvested the Cabernet Sauvignon in early
October.
2011
372011
Year’s Characteristics
All in all, we obtained very fat wines with pleasant fruit, vivid, intense
colours, with no oxidative characteristics. The reds have mellow tannins
with a long finish.
Vintage Specificity
Round and rich (no rain during the harvest!).
Vintage resembling 2011
2009: early harvest producing big, round wines.
2011 Report
Very good vintage, though in the back of our minds the thought of what it
could have been without the August drought! No rain during the harvest
allowed us to pick everything quickly.
201138
2011
2011 Vintage in Burgundy
PLEASURE FIRST AND FOREMOST
2011 will remain etched in our memories, not just because it was an
early year, but because of its unique weather conditions. Whilst the
world’s wine enthusiasts are getting ready to discover this new vintage,
the first impressions are already being made. This year, elegance and
indulgence, in particular, are enhancing the mosaic of Burgundy’s
«Terroirs». These wines are accessible, providing an ideal way of
discovering the wealth and diversity of Burgundy wines.
The Burgundy winegrowers know how to trust their instincts. Before the
arrival of summer, they remained cautious, even though the particularly
hot, dry spring gave the vines the potential for excellent quality.
The rainfall in July helped reconstitute the water reserves in the
soil and provide the vines with a new lease of life. The stormy
weather in August, which was very difficult to anticipate, encouraged
the winegrowers to follow their plots inch by inch. They were fully
aware that they would need both humility and intuition to determine the
date of the harvest: between maturity and the health of the vineyard,
nature has an important role to play. To wait or not to wait? This is
the crucial question that the Burgundy winegrowers asked themselves in
the last weeks of August, particularly for Pinot Noir, which is reputed
for its delicacy and complexity.
The harvest was spread out across several weeks, with the winegrowers
harvesting the plots according to their maturity. The sunshine and
lack of rain in September were the rewards for their patience. Careful
selection was carried out, on the vines and in the cellars. Only the
very best grapes were vinified.
BIVB, 15 November 2011
201139
Jacques Lardière, Maison Louis Jadot, Burgundy
Early budburst at the beginning of April was the logical consequence
of a summer-like spring that encouraged the vines to literally burst
into life.
High temperatures and exceptionally dry air meant that flowering was
rapid and so early that were 3 weeks ahead of our 2010 calendar.
By late May, flowering had taken place on soils where water reserves
were decreasing rapidly and, in such conditions, we witnessed the
formation of small berries on the new bunches (in particular on the
Pinot Noir).
This summer-like weather became less so during the post-flowering period
and the actual summer months were even worse. While early in the
vegetative season our winegrowers could `garden’ in their vineyards,
late June and the early veraison period were marked by thunderstorms,
at times accompanied by hail that dealt a blow to the potential harvest.
The Côte Chalonnaise between Rully and Mercurey was particularly badly
affected.
Cool, humid weather delayed full maturity until very late August,
reawakening cryptogamic parasites in the vines and apprehension in the
winegrowing community.
The first day of September heralded the first day of picking in ideal
weather that lasted until the final bunches had been cut.
White wines: Fermentation was fast and furious. Interesting sugar/
acidity balance that promises very pure wines.
Red wines: Powerful polyphenolic potential. Sorting the grapes had
obviously resulted in quality and purity of flavour. Acidity levels
were tempered by high temperatures in late summer, resulting in wines
that have fullness and ripe fruit on the palate with pleasant, supple
tannins.
There will be very some fine surprises in store, following what was an
astonishing vintage.
2011 201140
Eric Kohler,Barons de Rothschild Estates (Lafite)Technical Manager of Domaine d’Aussières, Corbièresand of Barons de Rothschild Estates outside France
DOMAINE D’AUSSIèRES, WINES : CHâTEAU D’AUSSIèRES, BLASON D’AUSSIèRES, AUSSIèRES RED AND AUSSIèRES WHITE
As elsewhere in France, the weather last year proved altogether atypical.
Much of spring was exceptionally warm and summer rather cool, with
moderate rainfall until the end of August.
Due to high temperatures the vegetative cycle accelerated quickly in
spring before slowing considerably in summer.
Fortunately, September was ideal, with good sunshine and cool nights
that compensated for the relatively chilly summer and enabled us to
await optimum maturity.
In the end, the trouble-free harvest began at the usual dates at
Aussières: September 7th for the whites and from September 15th for the
reds.
2011 was a generous year. The wines will be less concentrated than in
2010 but certainly pleasant, with finesse and fruit.
CHILE - VIñA LOS VASCOS
In 2011 we had the second consecutive atypical climatic year at Viña Los
Vascos, with climatic conditions in the Colchagua valley much resembling
those of 2010.
Throughout the year the weather remained relatively cool, with below
normal temperatures and little rainfall. Flowering was disrupted, which
obviously led to reduced yields.
Moderate temperatures during summer and autumn favoured slow maturity,
in particular for late varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and
Carmenère.
201141
Again, the harvest occurred very late, especially for the white varieties
that grow near the Pacific; we harvested the last grapes here in early
May.
Overall, phenolic maturity is well-balanced, as is the sugar / acidity
ratio. Once again it will be a fine year for Los Vascos with the wines
displaying quite a lot of ‘Bordeaux’ character.
ARGENTINA - BODEGAS CARO
An extremely rare attack of frost during the flowering on certain plots
marked the year in Argentina. Luckily conditions were excellent from
then on, with good temperatures that provided good, relatively even
ripening.
As in Chile, temperatures were rather cool in late summer, with the late
harvest finishing early in May.
The wines will be excellent this year, with Malbec at the fore.
201142
Stéphane DerenoncourtConsultant for Château Marsyas Lebanon
In 2011, the Lebanon experienced a cool spring. Budburst and flowering
were late and the vines had a long vegetative cycle, which resulted in
much greater aromatic complexity.
Summer was fine and hot, though not excessively so, with relatively
cool nights. There were significant differences between day and night
temperatures – a thermal shock that is crucial for the skins to harden
properly during the phenolic maturation process.
Luckily, although the growing period was long, there were no hot winds
that often dehydrate grapes at the approach of harvest and which can
lead to ‘candy’ notes in the wines as well as concentrated alcohol and
dry tannins.
All in all, 2011 is a great vintage of fresh fruit, bursting with
flavours, backed up by a full and well-defined structure that combines
power and great finesse.