WEDNESDAYTHE DAILY NEWS

16 SEPTEMBER 2015

YARNSEarliest

fibres and yarns for summer 17

at the Yarn Forum.

Hall 5 North

FABRICS Conference by Alvanon about

challenges facing brands today,

at 10 am Hall 5, room 512.

LEATHER The AW 16-17

film with inspirations and creative

directions for leather and fur.

Hall 3, Trends Gallery

DESIGNS Awards ceremony of the

Texprint® competition with Rosita Missoni and

presentation of the finalists’ designs

3:30 pm. Hall 5 North

ACCESSORIES Taste the colours of

the season at the ice happening.

Daily at 11 am, 2 pm and 5 pm. Hall 4,

Display Forum

MANUFACTURING Clothing designs by the

winner of the 2015 Première Vision Grand

Jury Prize at the Hyères Festival. Hall 6 North, Manufacturing Forum

REFINEMENT AND COMFORT : MEN REDEFINE THEIR WARDROBES P.6

CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNERS! THE PV AWARDS PRIZEWINNING

FABRICS AND LEATHERS P.7

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The dark purple lambskin at Platin Deri (Leather, 3A60) has a funny look, with long, carefully dishevelled but partially shorn curls. Far from going grey, a jacquard at Dutel (Fabrics, 5G4-5H3) sports red and khaki raffia fringes, tracing out and randomly emphasizing a garden of large flowers. The fringes continue their rebellious streak, in cashmere nevertheless, in the knits at Mely’s Maglieria (Knitwear Solutions,

6KW127) while they venture into dreadlocks galore on knits at Maglificio Ellynore (Knitwear Solutions, 6KW130) and A. Ferreira (Knitwear Solutions, 6KW141). Prefer super short cuts? Play on fake tattoos and sculpted materials with the synthetic taffeta flocked with a chenille-style white hair at Frizza (Fabrics, 6G12).

A conference dedicated to the behaviours of tomorrow thanks to the textiles of the future: strategic scenarios and opportunities for 2020. Don’t miss it. Wednesday at 4:30 pm. Fabrics, HALL 5, MEZZANINE, ROOM 520 AB

SCENARII 2020 BY R3ILAB

Sam Boardman, Denholme Velvets“Velvet is seeing a real revival. We bet on shorn velvet, in medium weights, which are primarily aimed at womenswear and are easily interpreted in stretch versions. And also very light burnt-out velvets, perfect for children’s collections or lingerie. For example we’re showing shorn burnt-out velvets with floral patterns or classic paisleys, which are quite successful. What both these trends share is a desire for something tactile, for a rich handle.”Fabrics, 5J26

Massimiliano Antonacci, Velcorex“The big return to velvet and corduroy is obvious in a season looking for warm, rich handles and cottony comfort, especially in women’s fashions. Medium weights (320-330 g) are at the heart of this trend, primarily featuring French ribs and stretch and viscose blends for fluidity. The

success of tone-on-tone printed velvets with geometric or vegetal micro-motifs is a continuation of a less casual, more chic and refined spirit.” Fabrics, 6H23

Marco Sassi, Duca Visconti“Velvets and corduroy for winter 16-17 are moving, playing on contrasts in weights and visual affects. Wide wales are very appreciated in heavy weights (from 600 g to 800 g), for a ‘70s feeling updated by enzyme washes. In stark contrast, there are velvets with a woolly feel that seem heavy even though they weigh only 250 grams. In line with this desire for motion, we also offer jaspé, doubled and yarn-dyed velvets, for a mélange effect that is visually structured but still soft to the touch.” Fabrics, 6D20

SOBERLY SHORN, PRINTED OR BURNT-OUT, OFTEN RICH AND WARM: WHAT’S UP WITH VELVETS?

LOOKING FOR A HAIRSTYLIST? THIS SEASON WILL BLOW YOU AWAY!

THE NEW SHOE FOCUS FORUMCutting-edge and closely tied to the season, Shoe Focus reveals the technical elements and components, ornaments and leather and fashion directions for footwear, in an exclusive and pertinent view of winter 16-17. Accessories, HALL 4 NORTH

10:30IT’S TIME FOR THE SEASON’S TREND TASTING SEMINAR by the Première Vision fashion team. Seats on sale outside the conference room. Fabrics, HALL 5, MEZZANINE, ROOM 520 AB

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THE TURKISH DESIGNER, STAR OF THE PREMIÈRE VISION ISTANBUL AD CAMPAIGN, SHARES WITH US HER FAVOURITES OF THE SEASON.

ARZU KAPROL GUIDED TOUR The very stylised,

almost futuristic shape of this garment

by Annelie Schubert (Première Vision Grand Jury Prize

at the last Hyères Festival) contrasts

almost violently with the combination of

compact broadcloth and traditional fur on

the insideManufacturing,

FORUM, HALL 6 NORTH

The embroidery and the finishing of this Raschel knit by Bischoff Roja (Fabrics 5K10) provokes multi-dimensional effects. It’s superb, and more than that, the whole fabric is eco-friendly.Fabrics, TECH FOCUS, HALL 6

EXHIBITORS CELEBRATE THREE SPECIAL ANNIVERSARIESThe Goldentex group (Fabrics, 6N30-6P23) celebrates its centenary at the show, while there are 120 candles on the cake at Swarovski (Accessories, 4F33-4G32). Liberty (Fabrics, 5E24-5F23) celebrates its 140th year with an exhibition at the Fashion & Textile Museum in London, running 9 October 2015 - 28 February, 2016.

UPPER JEANSWEAR : REWRITE THE BLUES!Poetry on a - supposedly - raw canvas: an inventive and delicate French atelier ennobles and embroiders a Spanish weaver’s pure, original and modern denim. The new Upper Jeanswear space displays a creative collaboration between the Atelier Jean-Pierre Ollier and Royo (Upper Jeanswear, 6F35). Here, jeanswear takes the floor to connect fluidity and tailoring, femininity and masculinity, crafts and industry, to advance the frontiers of sewing techniques and finishings, and dispatch received ideas with a passion.Upper Jeanswear Exhibit, HALL 6 NORTH, AT THE INTERSECTION OF FABRICS AND MANUFACTURING

FLOCKING

TRACEABILITYToday the quality of a skin is judged by its origins and the environmental impact of its manufacturing cycle. To learn more:• Midwax in drum. Everyday from 2 pm - 2:30 pm, by Kemas (Leather 3B44).• Technological Innovations serving quality and the environment. Every day from 3 pm to 3:30 pm by Chimontgroup (Leather 3A41)• New systems of bonding. Every day from 4 pm to 4:30 pm by Accoppiature Pisane (Leather 3B42) Leather, INCUBE FORUM, HALL 3

A printing technique that consists of spraying short hairs or fibres onto an adhesive-coated surface, for plain or drawn velvet effects.Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6

AUTUMN WINTER 16-17

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ECOLOGICAL, SWEET, TASTY: Milk derivatives seduce not only the taste, but also the eyes. Coming from a long tradition of combining casein with a polymer, the galalith buttons at Europroduction (Accessories, 4F40) have shine and unique colour renderings and feel. And at Euromaglia (Fabrics 5L26-5M25), the milk fibre is broken down in fine jerseys, which combine a surprisingly soft touch with antibacterial and moisturizing properties.

A CAPSULE COLLECTION OF 11 PIECES DESIGNED BY PARIS FASHION HOUSE L’ECLAIREUR AND ‘MADE IN JAPAN’ BY THE TORAY GROUP (FABRICS, 6D38), AS WELL AS A SELECTION OF ORGANIC TECHNICAL FABRICS, ARE PRESENTED EXCLUSIVELY AT THE BOUTIQUE.L’ECLAIREUR, 40 RUE DE SÉVIGNÉ, PARIS 75003, FROM 14 - 21 SEPTEMBER

Adriano Pistola, Ligneah © by Mymantra“Ligneah was born three years ago around an innovative, ecological idea: to produce a range of new materials from wood. As supple as skin and flexible as fabric, the Ligneah panels combine a wood multi-layer and a vegetal fabric, such as cotton or microfibre. The micro-laser treatment and the wide range of finishes and thicknesses (up to 4 mm) allow multiple uses, from automotive to

clothing. Ligneah is a young company, but the market is responding well to our eco-sustainable and cruelty free approach.”Leather, 3B53

Gunnsteinn Björnsson, Atlantic Leather - Lodskinn“We have been producing out fish leather for 15 years, and this material now accounts for about 60% of our production. The ecological character of our approach is clear: we give a second life to fish skins that are thrown out. And we use only renewable energy to work the skins, which are very suitable for dyeing and metal finishings, as well as vegetable dyes for a more natural effect.”Leather, 3C69

92original patterns by textile designers are shown at the Design Forum for winter 16-17. Designs, HALL 5 NORTH.

IS FASHION SMART? WHAT ARE YOU FABRICATING WITH LEATHER?

GUIDED TOUR This decoration caught my eye from pretty

far away. When I got closer I saw one of

my favourite houses, Jakob Schlaepfer

(Fabrics 5L6-5M5), in a play on volume,

printing and cut-out scales. Is it a dream or reality ? You can’t tell...

Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6

For next season, I’m going even further in terms of colour nuances, for a feeling of transparency in colour shades. Here yarns make fluid, undefined, intangible colours vibrate. Summer 17 will be quite evanescent.Yarns Forum, HALL 5 NORTH

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49 WEAVERS GAVE THEIR VIEWPOINTS ABOUT MENSWEAR FOR WINTER 16-17.

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05 TOUCH OF FEMININITY

The walls are coming down. Little by little, menswear is allowing itself to take directions formerly reserved only for women. To heck with motifs in the usual white- blue or black-white contrasts...the men’s palette for winter 16-17 is colourful but softer. And there are no taboos on flowers, which are preferred tone-on-tone, misty or darkened.

03 BACKS AND CUFFS Contrasts and opposites. Personal expression in menswear is looked for in the details. Heading up choices: shiny/matt contrasts, especially for major items, cosy on the inside and with a protective gleam on the outside; combining a calm plain and a colourful fantasy for jackets and trousers; jacquards with positive-negative effects in shirtings.

04 CONFIDENTIAL TECHNOLOGYTechnology is fully present, but shouldn’t show itself. Buyers are looking for performant wools – invisible rain-resistance, stain resistance, pollen-resistant...and are interested in bondings that introduce a sporty plus to the backs of chic materials. The popularity of rubbers and waxes follows their level of discretion.

01 ELASTI-CHICN°2 in the selections are stretch cottons and wool blends, tied behind 100% cottons. Certain exhibitors say elastane is in higher demand for men’s fabrics than women’s. The goal: new behaviours, comfort and suppleness, but still with a lot of nobility and elegance.

02 ENVELOPING SOFTNESS Velours and velveties receive a warm reception, with a dandy spirit alongside corduroys. All the sueded, skin-like handles, and Lyocell are favoured in extremely supple and enveloping versions. A continuation of warmness is felt in all sectors, with choices for puffy flannels, light brushings and malleable moleskins.

BESTTHE

WHAT ARE MENSWEAR BUYERS LOOKING FOR? HERE, THE FIRST INDICATIONS FROM YESTERDAY’S AISLES, FROM THE PREMIERE VISION FABRICS SURVEYS.

A TURNAROUNDWe’ve lost our bearings? Menswear, this stable, reassuring sector, so strong in its timeless values, is in full evolution. It is reassessing its apparel vocabulary, and adding softness, suppleness, flowers and stretch to the wardrobe. Without turning its back on its famed elegance. What a change! Casualwear is ultra chic, noble, refined. While tailoring is sturdier, more structured, almost raw thanks to a touch of rusticity.

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AUTUMN WINTER 16-17

Andrea Meschiari, N43 Knitwear Solutions, 6KW126

OUR COMBINATIONS OF FABRICS AND OUR SILHOUETTES ARE OFTEN CLASSIC. But summers and winters seem less distinct than before! Linen, almost fragile jacquards and floral motifs are cropping up all year.”

NO FANCY FIREWORKS FOR OUR MEN’S LEATHERS! Our lamb can be vintage or classic dipped lambskin, both raw and flexible. Certainly, the colour palette is more limited than in women’s, but this almost monochrome spirit - between faux blacks, dark browns or toast - is also more timeless. It favours patinas and improvement over time to fashion effects. We are witnessing the awakening of men to their own wardrobes, the birth of their own fashion awareness. Between their historic attraction to sportswear and its technical fabrics, and new notions of aesthetics, men are looking for updated leathers, clean lines. In short, discreet luxury.”

6BETWEEN A CRAVING FOR FANTASY AND A DEMAND FOR REFINEMENT AS MUCH AS COMFORT, MASCULINE ELEGANCE IS BEING REDRAWN. GENTLY. SUBTLY.

WE PRODUCE HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS with relatively classic lines. Some 90% of our shirts are made of cotton and we add stretch fibres in about 10% of cases to respond to the evolution of fashion towards slimmer designs. Even the most traditional clients are moving towards more sportswear because the working world is less formal. Sometimes men even dare floral prints alongside the still very popular checks.”

Hakim Hamdouch, Dounitex Manufacturing, 6V8-6W9

Vidas Vaitkus, Lincasa Manufacturing, 6Y16

WE ARE OPENING THE WAY FOR A MODERNIZED TRADITION with new blends. Cotton, wool and silk, or cotton, cashmere and linen coexist in the same shirt with a ‘flanellised’ spirit, while flannels grow heavier. We also want to signal the arrival of a true denim, a super soft indigo that develops a patina over time and gives even more character to our shirts.”

Nilgün Dülger, Soktas Fabrics, 6B2-6C1

Thomas Eberhard, Bodin-Joyeux, Leather, 3F1

JOINING THE STILL VERY STRONG TRADITIONAL TREND, there’s a new les ceremonial formal look. We certainly offer outfits for work, but their new casual spirit - with cotton / stretch yarn mixes for example - are an answer to the recent ‘soft working’ trend.”

Gustavo Faraci, T.B.M. Groupe Fabrics, 6D4-6E3

FOR MENSWEAR, EVERYTHING IS OVER THE TOP: precious silk / alpaca or cashmere / wool mixes, with many details, from meticulous cuffs to leather inserts or the addition of interior pockets. A strong trend is emerging with the use of jersey or cotton linings under knits, which broadens its scope to other items instead of just sweaters: coats, pants, anything goes! The machines are the same as before; it’s the ideas that are new.”

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VIEWPOINTS

“TECHNOLOGIES ARE USED IN NEW WAYS, AND EVENING MOVES CLOSER TO SPORTS. THIS ALL GIVES A VERY INNOVATIVE LOOK TO TEXTILES. AND, AMONG THE NOMINATED FABRICS, THERE’S ALWAYS A VERY SOFT AND REASSURING SIDE.”Livia Stoianova, artistic director and co-founder of On Aura Tout Vu

“SERVING AS JURY PRESIDENT OF THE PV AWARDS IS A MAJOR RESPONSIBILITY. WE UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH COMPANIES INVEST TO DEVELOP NEW FABRICS. WE KNOW WHAT IT COSTS, AND THE TECHNOLOGY IT REPRESENTS.” Yassen Samouilov, artistic director and co-founder of On Aura Tout Vu

YESTERDAY AT 5 PM, 6 EXHIBITORS RECEIVED PV AWARDS.For this 7th edition, the competition opened to tanners and tawers at Première Vision Leather. A jury of 12 influential international fashion figures awarded prizes to the most impressive winter 16-17 develop-ments, with 3 prizes in the textile universe and 3 awards for leather (see box). Discussions began in early September, with the nomina-tion of 24 leather skins and 94 fa-brics. Were the discussions tense? Fiery? Detailed? We’ll never know. But we do know that for their first participation, leathers inspired a great deal of excitement, surprise and emotion.

Livia Stoianova and Yassen Sa-mouilov, co-founders of the On Aura Tout Vu couture house, chaired the jury. “We are truly proud to have participated in this event, focused on discovering what will be happening in the future. Première Vision remains the most important fashion event in terms of innovation, while remaining very connected to reality,” they stated. They also noted that, “in the samples we had in our hands, technological innovations never deterred from the intrinsic values of the fabric or leather. This sea-son, both drape and handles were outstanding. The sample from Egedamla (Leather, 3B51) for exa-mple, is a good compromise between utility and modernity - it had everything, handle, suppleness and strength.” For Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision fashion director, certain hy-brids can skewer dress codes :

“The Eusebio fabric (Fabrics, 5P22 5R15) vibrates hot and cold and transformed a mesh into a velvet, and is extremely modern.” Jury member Laurent Lepainteur, Director of Leather Development at Saint Laurent Paris, singled out a product by France Croco (Leather, 3E61): “In luxury, crocodile has a si-gnificant market share. This leather is quite original because it’s classic yet has a vintage treat-ment, and the smoothing process was interrupted to achieve a matt and glossy effect.”The technique can have a poetic di-mension, according to Jaana Beidler, Director of the Fashion and Collection Design Master’s Pro-gram at Finland’s University of Aal-to and a member of the jury. She loved “the whimsical side of the Vema sample (Fabrics, 5M20), a tex-tile in which the weaver merged two strongly contrasting ap-proaches.”

THE PREMIÈRE VISION AWARDS

TO CHOOSE YOUR FAVOURITE LEATHER OR FABRIC.

“LIKE” IT TODAY!

FABRICS Public Prize

LEATHER Public Prize

PV Awards Grand Jury Prize For the most outstanding and pertinent development of the season. Fabrics, EUSEBIO (5P22) Leather, MÉGISSERIE ALRIC (3F39)

PV Awards Handle Prize The development most distinguished for its tactile and behavioural qualities. Fabrics, FABRICA TESSUTI (5L20) Leather, RUSSO DI CASANDRINO (3E91)

PV Awards Imagination Prize The most original development in terms of decoration, finishing, innovation or technology.Fabrics, FEDERICO ASPESI SRL (5M14) Leather, FEDI SILVANO (3E33)

THE 2015 WINNERSJury presidents Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, deliberating The two PV Awards Grand Jury Prize winners (Fabrics left; Leather, right)

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Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09e-mail: info@premierevision.com - Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos : R. Bord, R. Buenerd, F. Durand, S. Kossmann, A. Papaïs, V. Tanto, RR.

FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM

YOU HAVE TO STAY ONE STEP AHEAD. We pay attention to what takes place on the catwalks, of course, but we really believe inspiration can come from anything ... sometimes even the small things. You need an ability to feel something in the air... What we really want is for our clients to look forward to each of our collections. So we have to stay on top too!

Dan handles sales and the company in general. At the start of Cake, all his holidays were spent at Première Vision, between Paris and New York. Now, beginning last year, he’s here all the time! I oversee the creative side. I have a reputation for being an “experimenter.” I was known for cooking the knits when I was a knitwear designer! And in my family, women have always founded companies. I carried on the tradition by launching Cake! We always paint by hand, but it’s a point of pride to develop digital versions as high in quality as the originals. Cake designers must master their pencils, their brushes and their CAP software equally well. Our designs have to trigger an idea, a story, a collection ... Our day-to-day is fun, extremely creative, and no two days are alike. As the English saying goes, if you love your job you’ll never work a day in your life.

MY JOBPATTERNSPRODUCERCarol Martyn and her husband Dan Martyn, founders of Cake Studios, Première Vision Designs (5X20) with their brush and pencil.

MY JOBARTISAN

WOOL-MAKERPaolo Paoletti, of Paoletti dal 1795,

Première Vision Fabrics, (5J49) and his wooden yard stick,

over 50 years old, which he has had with him from the start.

I AM A 7TH GENERATION WOOL MILLERThe starting point for my work (and my day) is looking for raw materials. Having the sensibility to choose a good wool takes

time and experience. It’s a skill transmitted from father to son, but I haven’t stopped learning. A favourite day happened 20 years ago, when someone from a large French fashion house arrived with the image in mind of a dated company

dedicated to menswear. She stayed all day. The person was thrilled with our style offi ce set up like a kitchen where everyone can try out their recipes. She must have changed her mind about us because they’ve been working with us since that day!You know, we are a small company; we all know each other very well. Some have known me since I was a student and spent my summers at the factory. And for newcomers, I’m like a big brother they go to for advice. When I’m there, I love to delve into our archives. They are the basis for our products developments that go in every direction. But don’t think I’m backward looking: I believe in the power of social media and web marketing. Proposing gorgeous samples isn’t enough. To sell a fabric, you have to fi rst know how to tell its story.

WEDNESDAY