practical food and beer pairing 17june10 for · pdf filepractical food and beer pairing kyle...

Practical Food and Beer PairingPractical Food and Beer Pairing

Kyle Jones

Foam RangersFoam Rangers

Houston, TX

Learning objectivesLearning objectives

1 Recognize and understand the sensory1. Recognize and understand the sensory aspects that guide us in pairing beer and foodfood

2. Learn basic techniques/rules for pairing food and beerand beer

3. Learn how to practically host a food and beer i ipairing event

SENSORY ASPECTS OF FOOD ANDSENSORY ASPECTS OF FOOD AND BEER

In GeneralIn General

• Food and beer share many of the sameFood and beer share many of the same sensory aspects– Taste– Taste

– Aroma

Mouthfeel– Mouthfeel

– Appearance

Th i i f h diff• The origins of these aspects can differ

TasteTaste

• Generally accepted that the tongue/brain Ge e a y accepted t at t e to gue/b arecognize five basic tastes– Salty– Sour– Sweet

i– Bitter– Umami (savory – think soy sauce or a steak)

• From an evolutionary standpoint we are wired to• From an evolutionary standpoint, we are wired to seek out salty and sweet, and bitter is a warning sign of potential toxicitys g o pote t a to c ty

BalanceBalance

• Balance is key in both beer and fooda a ce s ey bot bee a d ood– Bitter/sweet– Acidic/sweet

• With beer, we commonly speak of balance between malt sweetness and hop bitterness– Other styles strike balance with different elements

• Lambic – acidity and sourness

• With food we commonly speak of balance in• With food, we commonly speak of balance in terms of acidity– Lack of acidity results in bland flavorsLack of acidity results in bland flavors

Balance 2Balance 2

• In a food and beer pairing beer providesIn a food and beer pairing, beer provides another potential source of “balance”

• It is important that the overall pairing be• It is important that the overall pairing be balanced

Ch k /IPA– Cheesecake w/IPA

– Braised collard greens (cider vinegar) with porter

AromaAroma

• Unlike the small number of tastes to which the U e t e s a u be o tastes to c t esenses respond, there are thousands of smells our olfactory system can recognize and interpret

• Aromas are strongly linked to memory• We quickly become accustomed to smells, a phenomenon known as “odor fatigue”, when the nasal mucosa and olfactory receptors become saturated with moleculessaturated with molecules– Also reason behind sensitivity – sensitive on a molecular level

MouthfeelMouthfeel

• Alternatively referred to as “texture” when te at e y e e ed to as te tu e espeaking of food

• Refers to the tactile sensations perceived when pwe chew and swallow food or drink beer– Creamy (F+B)– Slick (F+B)– Tingling (F+B)Crunchy (F)– Crunchy (F)

– Crisp (F+B)– Drying/astringent (F+B)Drying/astringent (F+B)

AppearanceAppearance• The visual aspects of food and

beer are also important as ourbeer are also important, as our eyes, along with the nose, are the first to evaluate

• In general, foods display a wider f l h d barray of colors than does beer

– Anthocyanins – purple cabbage– Carotenoids – orange carrots,

yellow peppers, red chiles– Chlorophyll – green leafy

vegetables, broccoli• Beer is evaluated primarily on its

attenuation of light (SRM), and other secondary characteristics– Clarity– Head formation and retention– Color highlights (ruby, orange, etc.)Color highlights (ruby, orange, etc.)

http://www.notcot.com/images/2008/05/tastes0.jpg

Appearance 2Appearance 2

• The appearance of a ppbeer or food can also shape (or distort) our initial taste aroma andinitial taste, aroma, and even mouthfeelperceptionsp p– E.g. Poor/no head– Beer too dark for styleF d l d d– Food plopped down on a plate doesn’t taste as good as food presented i lnicely

Summit Brewing

Putting it togetherPutting it together

• The interplay of all these aspects must beThe interplay of all these aspects must be considered when creating beer and food pairings

• However, it seems to often be the case that people are intimidated when the prospect of pairing food and beer, or hosting a pairing dinner, arises

• In this talk, I will try to convince you that you already know how to pair beer and food

TREATMENT PLANNING: AN ILLUSTRATION FROM MEDICAL PHYSICS

Forward planningForward planning

• Historical approachpp– Co‐60 therapy

• Parallel‐opposed fields, 4‐fieldfield

• Decide on treatment parameters, then pcalculate dose

• Need to have a good idea about what combinedabout what combined effects the parameters will have

www.aoctr.com/images/imrt_Znb1.jpg

Inverse planningInverse planning

• Decide what is the desired tumor dose, critical organ dose, other constraintsother constraints

• Treatment planning system usessystem uses optimization routines to calculate the best plan

• We already know the desired outcome, why sweat the details?

http://img.medscape.com/pi/emed/ckb/otolaryngology/834279‐846797‐2142.jpg

sweat the details?

Inverse planning in pairingInverse planning in pairing

• I have been applying the same approach forI have been applying the same approach for food and beer pairing

• We all share a few things in common and two• We all share a few things in common, and two of them are a love and appreciation for beer and a love and appreciation for foodand a love and appreciation for food

• We have an innate sense for what makes a d i i h h b blgood pairing, even though we may not be able

to explain or verbalize it

I’m not this guyI m not this guy

But this guy can offer us some help…But this guy can offer us some help…

http://todustyoushallreturn.wordpress.com/2009/10/

BlinkBlink

• In this book Malcolm Gladwell explores theIn this book, Malcolm Gladwell explores the subconscious and how it affects our decision‐makingmaking

• Most relevant vignette: Strawberry jam and professional tasters/amateur tastersprofessional tasters/amateur tasters

The Jam VignetteThe Jam Vignette

• Consumer Reports had hired experts for a taste Co su e epo ts ad ed e pe ts o a tastepanel on strawberry jam– 44 brands ranked on specific measures of taste, texture, etc.

• College students asked to rank 1, 11, 24, 32, 44 ranking jamsranking jams– 0.55 correlation

• Other group asked to provide written explanation• Other group asked to provide written explanation for rankings– 0.11 correlation0. correlation

Garrett OliverGarrett Oliver

• “People have been enjoying beer with food forPeople have been enjoying beer with food for millennia, so it’s fair to ask what the point is of trying to formalize an already happytrying to formalize an already happy relationship”

The Brewmaster’s Table

What does this mean for us?What does this mean for us?

• Thin‐slicing: In our subconscious we can makeThin slicing: In our subconscious, we can make great pairings without (and perhaps because we don’t) fully understanding why we thought of it) y g y g

• Training can help us understand why pairings workwork– BJCP, cooking classes, reading

• Experience is also valuableExperience is also valuable– Catalog of flavors/pairings

– Garrett OliverGarrett Oliver

LuckilyLuckily

• I’m the type of person to jump headlong intoI m the type of person to jump headlong into anything, without really giving much thought to any of the benefits or consequencesto any of the benefits or consequences

Creating pairingsCreating pairings

• The process of creating pairings is really aThe process of creating pairings is really a year‐round task– Trying different beers with food (2/meal)– Trying different beers with food (2/meal)

– Simply tasting and evaluating food and beer

S ti I’ll j t thi k b t i i• Sometimes I’ll just think about pairing possibilities as I daydream

• Having a theme in mind helps as well

The genesis of a pairingThe genesis of a pairing

• For me ideas come in several different formsFor me, ideas come in several different forms– Food I enjoy

Beer I enjoy– Beer I enjoy

– Considering elements of a beer and finding a food to matchto match

– Pairings others have enjoyed

Exploring and eliminatingExploring and eliminating

• It is only after I have set the pairings that IIt is only after I have set the pairings that I begin to think more deeply about them and explore what makes them workexplore what makes them work

• However, it is not only important to explore them for this reason but also to make surethem for this reason, but also to make sure they do work

I h h d l f ti k th t h d t b– I have had a couple of stinkers that had to be dropped or modified

Trial runTrial run

• You should perform a trial run for eachYou should perform a trial run for each planned pairing

• The trial run is important on several levels• The trial run is important on several levels– Perfect cooking techniques and seasoning for dishesdishes

– Make sure the pairings work

All t it d th ht b t– Allows you to write down some thoughts about the pairings for discussion at the dinner

Pizza deconstructedPizza deconstructed

• Three different ways to look at pairing pizzaThree different ways to look at pairing pizza with beer

• Sierra Nevada Kellerweiss with herbed• Sierra Nevada Kellerweiss with herbed tomatoes

D h Bl k B P i h h• Deschutes Black Butte Porter with mushroom crostini

• Summit IPA with Northern Lights Blue Cheese

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Chico CA (Laura Harter Brian BadeSierra Nevada Brewing Company, Chico, CA (Laura Harter, Brian Bade, Andrew Davis, Ken and Steve Grossman)

1: Weissbier with herbed tomatoes1: Weissbier with herbed tomatoes

• Tomatoes are the main element in traditionalTomatoes are the main element in traditional pizza sauce, often seasoned with herbs

• Fresh tomatoes are also a pizza topping• Fresh tomatoes are also a pizza topping– Different flavor in this role

• The delicate flavors of weissbier play well with the subtleties of fresh tomatoes

• Clove notes harmonize with herbals, in particular the licorice‐like flavor of basil


• The toastiness and breadiness of the crust linkThe toastiness and breadiness of the crust link together with the same flavors provided by the wheatthe wheat


• Other elements that are in play:Other elements that are in play:– Basil/parsley: Licorice flavors are a nice match with clove phenols in weissbierp

– If your pizza has cheese, the high carbonation level of weissbier will scrub the tongue of the fat and oils from cheese, clearing a path for other, more subtle, flavors

– Weissbier is a refreshing counterpoint to spice from crushed red pepper jalapenos Italian sausage etccrushed red pepper, jalapenos, Italian sausage, etc.

– Pesto would be nice as well

Pairing dinner themesPairing dinner themes

• I think it is easiest to conceive pairings andI think it is easiest to conceive pairings and organize the event around a central theme

• However, I did not have a theme the first twoHowever, I did not have a theme the first two years and everything went quite well

• The theme can be as formal or as informal asThe theme can be as formal or as informal as you like– Brief presentation or discussion prior to each p ppairing

– A few words of introduction

Themes I have usedThemes I have used

• Go Local– Included only beers from TX and LA– Sourced as much food locally as possible

• Farmer’s MarketsFarmer s Markets

• Elements of beer– Focused on the sensory aspects, flavors, and aromas found in beerin beer

– Tried to pair each beer with a food that demonstrated a nice synergy or contrast

S l• Seven course meal– Theme for this year– Showcase the versatility of beer at the dinner table

Ideas for the futureIdeas for the future

• I would really like to be able to host a moreI would really like to be able to host a more formal dinner some time, however I don’t have the space (40+ people this year)have the space (40+ people this year)– Renting space?

Other possibilities?– Other possibilities?

• I have also considered a (smaller) dinner in hi h h t i i hwhich each person presents a pairing, perhaps

centered around a theme

Pairing dinner #1Gruyere and Manchego cheeses St. Arnold's Amber

Herb and sausage bites Celebrator DoppelbockHerb and sausage bites Celebrator Doppelbock

Smoked salmon Alaskan smoked porter

New potatoes with butter, salt, and pepper Pilsner Urquell

Bacon‐wrapped asparagus with olive oil, salt, and pepper Maredsous 10and pepper Maredsous 10

Spiral‐cut ham glazed with Vermont maple syrup Homebrewed Maple Nut Brown

New York cheesecake Elysian Immortal IPA

Chocolate truffles Rogue Chocolate StoutChocolate truffles Rogue Chocolate Stout

Pineapple upside‐down cake Lindemans Framboise

Pairing dinner #2Queama Mahado Cottonwood Low Down Brown

Potstickers with spicy peanut sauce Victory Prima PilsPotstickers with spicy peanut sauce Victory Prima Pils

Fruit ‐ apples, oranges, and pears Avery White Rascal

Spicy Thai potato chips Franziskaner HefeweizenSpicy Thai potato chips Franziskaner Hefeweizen

Grilled endive Saison Dupont

Buffalo burgers with oak‐smoked cheddar and arugula

Terrapin Rye Pale Ale

New York cheesecake Lindemans Framboise

Chocolate‐covered pretzels St. Arnold's Christmas Ale

Donuts Homebrewed Coffee Porter

Pairing dinner #3 (Go Local)Pine Belt Pale Ale (Southern Star, Conroe, TX) Albuquerque Turkey Sandwich

St Arnold Texas Brown (St Arnold Houston TX) Piave cheeseSt Arnold Texas Brown (St Arnold, Houston, TX) Piave cheese

Shiner Christmas (Shiner, Shiner, TX) Homemade brittle with caramel, candied ginger, gingersnaps, and g g , g g p ,honey

Real Ale Full Moon Rye (Real Ale, Blanco, TX) Fried green tomatoes

Turbodog (Abita, Abita Springs, LA) French butter pears poached in Turbodog infused with anise

Stormcloud IPA (Rahr and Sons, Ft. Worth, TX) Barbeque pork pizza( ) q p p

Abita Harvest Ale (Abita, Abita Springs, LA) Pecan‐crusted buttermilk chicken

St. Arnold Winter Stout (St. Arnold, Houston, TX) Molten lava cakes

Go local!Go local!

• This was a pairing theme one year (#3)This was a pairing theme one year (#3)

• The greenest (and freshest) beer and food is that which is brewed and grown locallythat which is brewed and grown locally– Or by you!

• Also provides a seasonal feel for the dinner– Produce that is in season

Pairing dinner #4 (Elements of beer)

St. Arnold Fancy Lawnmower Crackers with paté

Bass Pale Ale Prosciutto crisps

Belhaven St. Andrews Ale Caramelized onions on toast

Duchesse de Bourgogne Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog

Deschutes Black Butte Porter Braised collard greens with bacon

Stone Oaked Arrogant Bastard Cheesecake with vanilla beam whipped cream

Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout Chocolate cupcake with mocha ganache

Pairing dinner formatsPairing dinner formats

• The format I began with and continue to useThe format I began with, and continue to use, is the “open house” format– Good for large crowds– Good for large crowds

– Not conducive to education, Q+A

A it d tti i i ti t d ll• A sit‐down setting is more intimate and allows for more contemplation of the pairings

d f l d– Not good for large crowds

– Conducive to education, Q+A

Timetable and workflowTimetable and workflow

1. ~ 45 days out – set date and send invitations*1. 45 days out set date and send invitations2. ~ 40 days out – decide on pairings and try

pairingspairings3. ~ 30 days out – finalize pairings and contact

beer retailer and any food purveyorsbeer retailer and any food purveyors4. ~ 1 day out – remind guests, prepare any

food that will not suffer from reheatingfood that will not suffer from reheating5. ~ 8 hours out – prep remaining ingredients,

organize beer for easy pullingorganize beer for easy pulling

PlanningPlanning

• Beer: Easy. I allow 4 oz. of beer per person,Beer: Easy. I allow 4 oz. of beer per person, per pairing– 12 oz. bottle serves 3– I always purchase extra, usually ends up this way anyway

– Some people drink less, some more

• Food: Harder. I don’t want tons of leftovers, but I want everyone to have plenty. Use your experience (you’ve tried it, right?)

HardwareHardware

• 2 cups per person2 cups per person

• 1 plate per person

2 f il• 2 sets of utensils per person

• Ample napkins

• Large bin for collecting bottles for recycling

During the dinnerDuring the dinner

• I usually keep the first course i l ll t tsimple – allows guests to straggle in, meet one another, and allows me to get more complex dishes goingp g g– Alas, my kitchen is largely

closed off from living/dining room

• I pull the first beer out of the• I pull the first beer out of the fridge to allow it ample time to arrive at the proper temperature– ~ 20 min. for ales, ~ 5 min. for

lagers– Depends on room temperature

During the dinnerDuring the dinner

• I typically introduce a new pairing every 20‐30 min. throughout the evening– Good time – enough time

to enjoy, pour residual beer, but evening finishes in 3‐3.5 hours

• Hopefully you have• Hopefully you have someone like my wife who is kind enough to help with the whole affairhelp with the whole affair, as it would be nigh impossible to do solo

Large groupsLarge groups

• I typically start by announcing the nextI typically start by announcing the next pairing, showing the bottle, and pouring– Have second bottle in hand– Have second bottle in hand

• Food is placed on a table, with serving utensil

• As needed, I open extra bottles and simply hand to someone to pass around– I can be in kitchen preparing/pulling

Smaller groupsSmaller groups

• Everyone seated at one or two tablesEveryone seated at one or two tables

• I would pour beer for everyone, and serve the food on a dishfood on a dish

• More time and opportunity to explain and di i idiscuss pairing

After the dinnerAfter the dinner

Four stagesFour stages

1 Create pairings1. Create pairings

2. Refine pairings

3 i i3. Execute pairings

4. Serve pairings

Deschutes Brewing Company St Paul MN (Jason Randles Dave EspyDeschutes Brewing Company, St. Paul, MN (Jason Randles, Dave Espy, Gary Fish)

2: Porter with mushroom crostini2: Porter with mushroom crostini

• This pairing combines two elements of pizzaThis pairing combines two elements of pizza, the crust and mushrooms, a common topping

• The dark roasty notes of porter are an• The dark, roasty notes of porter are an excellent complement for the earthy, musty flavor of good mushroomsflavor of good mushrooms

• In addition, the earthy hop character of Black B P ib h f hiButte Porter contributes to the success of this match


• The crostini a substitute for the real pizzaThe crostini, a substitute for the real pizza crust, provides a textural contrast to the soft, slightly chewy tenderness of the sauteedslightly chewy tenderness of the sauteedmushrooms– Don’t neglect the food‐only elements– Don t neglect the food‐only elements

• Toasting of the crostini highlights subtle toasty flavors in the porterflavors in the porter


• These earthy woody flavors make sense as aThese earthy, woody flavors make sense as a match when I consider it further – mushrooms often grow on woodoften grow on wood

• Would I have paired these foods because of these facts no waythese facts – no way

• I paired them because I thought they would b d h hi h hbe good together, which they are

• Then I considered more deeply


• Other elements:Other elements:– Porter (particularly with English‐derived hops) is a nice match with other earthy, woody flavors such as oregano

– The rich, malty flavors in porter (and in general) are nice matches for hearty meats like sausageare nice matches for hearty meats like sausage and bacon – wild boar pizza anyone?

– Heirloom tomatoes have a nice meaty savoryHeirloom tomatoes have a nice, meaty, savory flavor (glutamate) and would make a nice topping for a pizza to pair with porter

ResponsibilityResponsibility

• Keep an eye onKeep an eye on everyone towards the end of the night

• Stop pouring if necessary

• Make sure everyone has a sober driver

• Let them stay at your place if they do not

Another way to host a dinnerAnother way to host a dinner

• Hosting a dinner at a BYOB restaurant is alsoHosting a dinner at a BYOB restaurant is also quite fun

• This allows you to concentrate on the beerThis allows you to concentrate on the beer and pairings, and leave the cooking to someone else

• With a small group, more time can be spent discussing the pairings

• Let them know in advance if you are bringing a large group

OTHER PRACTICAL TIPS AND TRICKSOTHER PRACTICAL TIPS AND TRICKS

Educate yourself – StudyEducate yourself Study

• Garrett Oliver – The Brewmaster’s TableGarrett Oliver The Brewmaster s Table

• Harold McGee – On Food and Cooking

d h i• Randy Mosher – Tasting Beer

• Lucy Saunders – Cooking with Beer (great ideas for pairings)

• Marnie Old, Sam Calagione – He Said Beer, , g ,She Said Wine

Continuing educationContinuing education

• The only way to gain experience is to drinkThe only way to gain experience is to drink and eat

• I always try at least two different beers each• I always try at least two different beers each night with dinner

BYOB• BYOB restaurants

• Experiment with different tastes as you enjoy a beer

Don’t go overboardDon t go overboard

• The surest way to have a bad experience is toThe surest way to have a bad experience is to try to do too much

• I typically try to limit the number of dishesI typically try to limit the number of dishes involving extensive prep and cooking– Not as big of a deal if most can be done the night g gbefore

• Also, making dishes too complex can make it difficult for guests to appreciate your pairing points

Manipulating beer and foodManipulating beer and food

• Certain beer characteristics can beCertain beer characteristics can be manipulated to better match food

• For example, serving a more balanced,For example, serving a more balanced, English‐style IPA slightly colder than normal accentuates the bitterness, which would aid in cutting through a rich, pungent cheese

• Two main areas for manipulation– Temperature (beer and food)– Carbonation level (beer)

Utility playersUtility players

• Know your utilityKnow your utility players – beers that can pair with a wide variety of foods– Saison

– Weissbier

– German pilsner

http://blog.cleveland.com/tribe_impact/2008/12/large_mark‐derosa.jpg

No‐No’sNo No s

• Lots of hops with vegetables/vegetal foodsp g / g– Hops = vegetable matter

• Pungent cheeses with delicate beers– Serve funky cheeses with sour/funky beers– Serve strong cheeses with bitter/strong beers– Serve nutty cheeses with nutty/malty beersServe nutty cheeses with nutty/malty beers

• Heat/spice with high alcohol or extremely hoppy beers– I prefer malty beers with spicy food

• Omitting a dessert course

Other stumbling blocksOther stumbling blocks

• Not trying your pairingsNot trying your pairings

• Not getting the freshest beerM ti t ff th t i ’t d i kl b– More exotic stuff that isn’t moved quickly may be a bad choice

Become good friends with your local liquor store– Become good friends with your local liquor store manager

Summit Brewing Company St Paul MN (Emily Abraham Kayla JurrensSummit Brewing Company, St. Paul, MN (Emily Abraham, Kayla Jurrens, Mark Stutrud)

France 44, Minneapolis, MN (Song Lee, Rick Anderson)

3: IPA with blue cheese3: IPA with blue cheese

• This pairing addresses the other majorThis pairing addresses the other major element of most pizzas, cheese– Not likely to find blue cheese as the major source y jof cheese on a pizza, but it makes an interesting topping

h h h f f• In this case, I have chosen one of my favorite types of cheese, blue

Ni h i h h f i– Nightmarish cheese for wine– Beer can handle


• Beer brings two elements to the party thatBeer brings two elements to the party that help it forge a match with strong cheeses– Carbonation– Carbonation

– Bitterness

C b ti d t ll t fl t• Carbonation does not allow strong flavors to linger on the tongue and mask others

• Bitterness provides some balance to stronger flavors and “distracts” the tongue and brain


• Here is a case where we have a very smooth,Here is a case where we have a very smooth, well‐balanced English IPA

• Bitterness and carbonation cut through theBitterness and carbonation cut through the strong flavors of the blue cheese– If we needed more bitterness, we could serve the ,beer slightly colder than we typically would

• As you finish the cheese, and the beer warms, your tongue is clean and you can enjoy the pleasant citrusy hop character of Summit IPA


• Other elements:Other elements:– Again, cheese – an imperial IPA would be wonderful with a goat cheese‐topped pizzawonderful with a goat cheese topped pizza

– Bitterness and carbonation scrubs the tongue

– Herbs and hop character can be a match made in– Herbs and hop character can be a match made in heaven

– Tomatillo pizza anyone?Tomatillo pizza anyone?

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Chico CA (Laura Harter Brian BadeSierra Nevada Brewing Company, Chico, CA (Laura Harter, Brian Bade, Andrew Davis, Ken and Steve Grossman)

Deschutes Brewing Company St Paul MN (Jason Randles Dave EspyDeschutes Brewing Company, St. Paul, MN (Jason Randles, Dave Espy, Gary Fish)

Summit Brewing Company St Paul MN (Emily Abraham Kayla JurrensSummit Brewing Company, St. Paul, MN (Emily Abraham, Kayla Jurrens, Mark Stutrud)

France 44, Minneapolis, MN (Song Lee, Rick Anderson)

Susan RuudSusan Ruud

Steve from DuluthSteve from Duluth

Sean PaxtonSean Paxton

Gary GlassGary Glass

The Cellar CrewThe Cellar Crew

Sheraton staffSheraton staff

practical food and beer pairing 17june10 for · pdf filepractical food and beer pairing kyle...

Documents