portugal 11 - preview...portugal gregor clark, duncan garwood, catherine le nevez, kevin raub, regis...

Portugal

Gregor Clark, Duncan Garwood, Catherine Le Nevez, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis, Kerry Walker

The Algarve(p158)

The Minho(p430)

Porto,the Douro &

Trás-os-Montes(p362)

The Beiras(p306)

Estremadura& Ribatejo

(p271)

Lisbon &Around

(p63)

The Alentejo(p216)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Portugal . . . . 4

Portugal Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Portugal’s Top 25 . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

Getting Around . . . . . . . . 22

First Time Portugal . . . . 24

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Month by Month . . . . . . . 29

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Portugal Activities . . . . . 42

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 53

Regions at a Glance . . . . 59

LISBON & AROUND . . 63Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 85Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 107Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 112Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Sintra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124West of Sintra . . . . . . . . . . 132Cascais . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Estoril . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Mafra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Ericeira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Setúbal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

THE ALGARVE . . . . . 158Faro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Estói & Milreu . . . . . . . . . . 169São Brás De Alportel . . . . 169Olhão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Tavira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Ilha de Tavira . . . . . . . . . . . 178Vila Real De Santo António . . . . . . . 179Castro Marim . . . . . . . . . . 180Alcoutim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Loulé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Serra do Caldeirão . . . . . . 184Albufeira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Carvoeiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Silves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Portimão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Praia da Rocha . . . . . . . . . 193Lagos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Salema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Sagres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205North of Sagres . . . . . . . .209Monchique . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214

THE ALENTEJO . . . . 216Alto Alentejo . . . . . . . . . 217Évora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Around Évora . . . . . . . . . . 229Reguengos de Monsaraz . . . . . . . . . . . 231Monsaraz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Estremoz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Vila Viçosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Elvas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Portalegre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Castelo de Vide . . . . . . . . . 246Marvão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Baixo Alentejo . . . . . . . . 252Beja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Mértola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Castro Verde . . . . . . . . . . . 259Serpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Moura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Coastal Alentejo . . . . . . 265Vila Nova de Milfontes . . 265Zambujeira do Mar . . . . . 268Porto Côvo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268Comporta . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269

ESTREMADURA & RIBATEJO . . . . . . . .271Estremadura . . . . . . . . . 273Peniche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Reserva Natural da Berlenga . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Óbidos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Foz do Arelho . . . . . . . . . .280São Martinho do Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Nazaré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Alcobaça . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Batalha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Leiria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Pinhal de Leiria . . . . . . . . . 292Fátima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

Porto de Mós . . . . . . . . . . . 295Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros . . . . . . . . . . .296Ribatejo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Santarém . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Constância & Castelo de Almourol . . . . . . . . . . . .300Tomar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

THE BEIRAS . . . . . . 306Beira Litoral . . . . . . . . . 307Coimbra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307Around Coimbra . . . . . . . .320Figueira da Foz . . . . . . . . . 323Praia de Mira . . . . . . . . . . . 327Aveiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Piódão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Beira Baixa . . . . . . . . . . 334Castelo Branco . . . . . . . . . 334Monsanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336Idanha-a-Velha . . . . . . . . . 338Sortelha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela . . . 339Seia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Gouveia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343Manteigas . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Torre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347Penhas da Saúde . . . . . . . 347Covilhã . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347Beira Alta . . . . . . . . . . . . 350Viseu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Guarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355Linhares & Folgosinho . . . . . . . . . . . 358Trancoso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Almeida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361

PORTO, THE DOURO & TRÁS-OS-MONTES . .362Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Vila do Conde . . . . . . . . . .398Amarante . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400Lamego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402Around Lamego . . . . . . . .403Peso da Régua . . . . . . . . .404Alto Douro . . . . . . . . . . . 405Pinhão & Around . . . . . . .406Vila Nova de Foz Côa . . . .409Trás-os-Montes . . . . . . . 411Vila Real . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411Parque Natural do Alvão . . 413Mondim de Basto . . . . . . . 415Chaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415Bragança . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Parque Natural de Montesinho . . . . . . . . . 422Miranda do Douro . . . . . . 425Parque Natural do Douro Internacional . . . . .428

THE MINHO . . . . . . . 430Braga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Barcelos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439Guimarães . . . . . . . . . . . . .440Viana do Castelo . . . . . . .446Valença do Minho . . . . . . . 453Monção . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Ponte de Lima . . . . . . . . . . 457Ponte da Barca . . . . . . . . . 461Arcos de Valdevez . . . . . .462Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês . . . . . . .463

Portugal Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476

Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491

Art & Architecture . . . . 495

Saudade: the Portuguese Blues . . . . . 503

Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 508

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .516

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 524

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 542

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . 32

Off the Beaten Track . . 40

Lazy Days Near Lisbon . . . . . . . . .136

Lazy Days Lagos . . . . 202

Driving Tour: Wines of the Douro . . . . . . . 366

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

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Itineraries

Highlights of Portugal

This grand journey takes you from the vibrant Portuguese capital to the sunny beaches of the Algarve and up north to striking, riverside Porto. Along the way, you’ll visit Unesco World Heritage Sites, stroll medieval town centres and sample the varied cuisines of the north, south and centre.

Start in Lisbon, spending two days explor-ing the city’s enchanting neighbourhoods, atmospheric restaurants and fado-filled taverns. Take vertiginous tram rides, and visit the city’s hilltop castle, museums and

historic sites. On day three, head to nearby Sintra, with its fairy-tale woodlands and palaces. Next, enjoy two days exploring fascinating Évora and its nearby mega-liths. From there, go south and spend a day in peaceful Tavira, one of the Algarve’s prettiest towns, then take the ferry out to the car-free Ilha de Tavira. Continue west to beach- and nightlife-loving Lagos. Don’t miss the pretty beaches (Batata, Dona Ana and Camilo) south of town. Keep going west until you hit laid-back Sagres, where you can visit its dramati-cally sited fort, surf good waves and con-template the endless clifftop views. Return

2 WEEKS

32©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Funicular, Lisbon

north to Lisbon, stopping en route at the coastal town of Vila Nova de Milfontes, a great spot for superfresh seafood grilled to perfection. You can eat it right on the waterfront. Spend a day in Tomar, a sleepy river town that is home to the stag-gering Convento de Cristo. Then head to Coimbra for two nights. This venerable university town is packed with medieval convents and churches and lively bars (during term time). Spend your last two

days in Porto, Lisbon’s rival in beauty. Enjoy a day exploring the Ribeira, visiting avant-garde galleries and museums, and taking in the nightlife in the city centre. Then cross the river to Vila Nova de Gaia for an introduction to the country’s great ports. If time allows, finish with a boat trip along the Rio Douro, passing through dra-matic gorges flanked by steeply terraced, centuries-old vineyards.

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Foz do Douro

Vila do Conde

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Scenic shorelines, captivating towns and staggering architectural monuments set the stage for this memorable journey down the Atlantic coast.

Begin in Porto, the port-wine capital at the mouth of the Douro. Spend two days exploring its historic centre, museums, parks and gar-dens, plus the beach neighbourhood of Foz do Douro. On the third day go north to the seaside town of Vila do Conde, a quick and popular beach getaway. Next, head south to Aveiro, for rides along its scenic canals from high-prowed moliceiros (traditional boats). For a fine day trip from here, take a bus and ferry out to the Reserva Natural das Dunas de São Jacinto, a scenic nature reserve and birdwatching site. The popular resort town of Figueira da Foz is the next stop; you’ll find prime surfing, a touch of nightlife and wide people-packed beaches, with more isolated sands out of town. After a day of sunbaking, make an inland day trip to the striking mountaintop castle of Montemor-o-Velho. The picturesque and fun-loving beach town of Nazaré is next, and here you can frolic in the waves, enjoy traditional seafood restau-rants and take the funicular to a clifftop prom-ontory for superb views. Nazaré is also a good base for exploring the architecturally stunning monasteries (and Unesco World Heritage Sites) in Alcobaça and Batalha. From there, head south to Óbidos, with its cobblestone lanes and upmarket inns. Go west back to the coast to reach Peniche, where you’ll find excellent beaches, particularly in nearby Baleal. From Peniche, be sure to take a boat out to the remote island of Berlenga Grande. You can even stay overnight (reserve well ahead). Continue south to Ericeira, a whitewashed village perched atop sandstone cliffs. Explore the beaches, feast on seafood, then continue on to the fairy-tale setting of Sintra, where picturesque guesthous-es make a fine overnight stay. Take the road to the coast, and follow it out to the dramatically set Cabo da Roca and down to the windswept beach of Praia do Guincho. The next stop is the pretty village of Cascais, home to narrow pedestrian lanes, lively outdoor restaurants and leafy gardens. End your journey in Lisbon, spending a few days exploring Portugal’s vibrant capital.

3 WEEKS Exploring the

Atlantic Coast

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Top: Ribeira (p363), PortoBottom: Baleal beach (p273), Peniche

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Dramatic scenery, frozen-in-time villages and clifftop castles make for a charming journey on this loop around Portugal’s often overlooked interior.

From Lisbon head 200km southeast to the historic village of Castro Verde. Visit the royal basilica in town then the LPN Interpretative and Environmental Centre, a great spot for bird-watching some 5km north of town. Drive east to Mértola, a picturesque medieval settlement perched high above the placid Rio Guadiana. Wander the old streets, go kayaking on the river and overnight in one of the area’s charming inns. From Mértola, drive north to Beja, a lively town with a walled centre, intriguing museums and a 13th-century castle. For a break from the heat, head to Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz and cool off in refreshing Alqueva Lake, then head up to looming Monsaraz, a jaw-droppingly beautiful medieval village. From there, it’s a short hop to Évora, the most vibrant town in the Alentejo – its large cobblestone centre is packed with history (don’t miss the Bone Chapel and Roman temple). Évora has great traditional restaurants and makes a good base for visiting nearby Neolithic sites. Head northeast to the marble town of Vila Viçosa, home to a stag-gering palace and peaceful town centre. Next up is Castelo de Vide, a wildly remote-feeling town set on a clifftop. Nearby, you can stop in Marvão for more magnificent views from a cobblestone village. Continue to Monsanto, a photogenic castle-in-the-sky town. Leave early for the two-hour drive to Vila Nova de Foz Côa, gateway to some of Iberia’s most extensive petroglyphs. From here, it’s an easy detour to the vineyards along the Douro. Otherwise, head southwest into the Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela, a scenic, mountainous area with great hiking and tranquil guesthouses where you can soak up the scenery – Manteigas makes a great base. After a day or two in the mountains, head west to the lively university town of Coimbra. Visit the historic campus, stroll the riverbank, feast on hearty Portuguese cooking and catch live Coimbra-style fado. Visit Conímbriga, southwest of Coimbra, for a look at Roman ruins, then continue to Santarém, with its Gothic architecture, atmospheric res-taurants and panoramic views, before finishing the tour in Lisbon.

10 DAYS Circling the Centre

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This trip will give you a chance to see spectacular contrasts in scenery by following Portugal’s southern rivers, beaches and ridges.

From Lisbon head to the Costa da Caparica, taking in the festive beaches near the town, and then escaping the crowds on wilder beaches to the south. Next head down to Praia do Meco for more sandy action and some great seafood. Keep going south to reach the desolate cliffs of Cabo Espichel. A good place to stay for the night is at a rural guesthouse outside Sesim-bra, a fishing village turned resort with open-air restaurants and family-friendly beaches. On the next day, continue east, stopping for a picnic on the forest-lined shores of Parque Natural da Arrábida. At night, stay in Setúbal for more seafood feasting and a wander through the sleepy old-town quarters. The next day, book a dolphin-watching boat trip along the Sado Estuary. From Setúbal, take the ferry across to handsomely sited Tróia. Continue south to overnight in Vila Nova de Milfontes, a lovely seaside town with fine beaches and charming places to stay. Next is Zambujeira do Mar, a tiny village perched above a pretty beach. Follow the coast to Aljezur, with its unspoilt, cliff-backed sands, and into the rustic town of Carrapateira, with more wild, untouched beaches, plus cafes and guesthouses catering to the surf-loving crowd.

Head south, and you’ll reach the southern coast at pretty, laid-back Sagres, another surfers’ town. Visit Sagres’ sea-cliff fortress, followed by the surreal cliffs of Cabo de São Vicente.

Go east to Lagos, one of the Algarve’s liveli-est towns, with loads of good sleeping, eating and drinking options. Afterwards, go inland to Monchique, with its densely wooded hillsides that offer picturesque walking, cycling and pony-trekking opportunities, and then stop at Termas de Monchique Spa. Back on the coast, stay overnight in the old town centre of lively Faro, before journeying out to the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, a lagoon system full of marsh, creeks and dune islands. From there, head to Tavira, set with genteel 18th-century buildings straddling the Rio Gilão.

2 WEEKS Southern Beauty

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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532532

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Aliaksandr Roussak, André Rousseau, Andrea Casella, Anthony O’Toole, Bill Cooke, Bruce Crow, Caryn Lesko, David Muir, David Willett, Dawn Simpson, Eric Wallbank, Esther McClelland, Evelien van Delft, Fiona Daniel, G Frank, Gayle Taylor, Gordon Winocur, Gwyneth Graham, Irving Levinson, Jean-Francois Berthiaume, Jim Martin, Jody Hoffmann, John Briggs, John Docker, John Robinson, Keith Clay, Kevin Boreham, Kirk Siang Yeo, Lis Lindskov, Marco Crombeen, Margaret McAspurn, Marianna Bebu, Mariella Abdilla, Meltem Kılıçcı, Michelle Charrette, Peter Tudor, Philippe Jolicoeur, Rachel Armitage, Renato Maserati, Ricardo Antunes, Seb Neylan, Sharon Malleck, Stephanie Park, Vitor Passarinho, Yvon Lemieux

WRITER THANKSGregor ClarkMuito obrigado to all the Portuguese people who generously shared their local knowledge – especially Inês Albuquerque in Vila Real; Alice Braga in Parque Nacional Peneda Gerês; Pedro Mendes in Guimarães; Francisca, Rita and Roberto in Amarante; Nuno in Viana do Castelo; Margarida and Luis in Peso da Régua; and Yvonne in Foz Côa. Back home, abraços to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip.

Duncan Garwood Thank you to everyone who helped me on this project, starting with Tom Stainer in London. In Por-tugal, obrigado to Edoardo Queiroz; Joana Sequeira; Margarida Salavessa; Samuel Pereira; João Maltes; the team at Idanha-a-Velha turismo, Carla Regio; Claudia Figueira; Kirk Mitchell; Cristina Baía; Patricia Santos; Martha at Praia de Mira; and the folks at Gouveia turismo. Most of all, a heartfelt grazie to Lidia, Ben and Nick.

Catherine Le Nevez Muitíssimo obrigada first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism professionals throughout the Algarve who provided insights, information and great times. Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Tom Stainer and the Portugal team, and everyone at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce.

Kevin RaubThanks to Tom Stainer at Lonely Planet. On the road, thanks to Carolina Cardoso, Rui Matias, Jayme Simões, Filipa Achega, Hugo Ferreira, Francisco Gomes and Inês Oliveira.

Behind the Scenes


533BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Regis St Louis I am grateful to Nina in Évora; Mitch and Vicki in Evoramonte; Filipa in Estremoz; Lina, Eduardo and Lenny in Beirã; and countless others who shared tips and insight along the way. Thanks also to my co-authors for all their hard work. Special thanks to my family, who make coming home the best part of travelling.

Kerry WalkerA big thank you goes to all the people who helped make this book what it is, not least the team at Porto Visitor & Conventions Bureau. I am muito obrigada to ‘gourmet guru’ André Apolinario at

Taste Porto Food Tours, Diogo at Prova and David at Touriga for their insight into Portuguese wine, as well as Nuno and Rita at Workshops Pop Up for their excellent tips.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Decorated moliceiros boats, Aveiro, Olimpio Fantuz,/4Corners Images ©

THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Portugal guidebook was curated by Gregor Clark and researched and written by Gregor, Duncan Garwood, Catherine Le Nevez, Kevin Raub, Regis St Louis and Kerry Walker. The previous edition was written by Regis, Kate Armstrong, Kerry, Marc Di Duca, Anja Mutić and Kevin.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tom StainerSenior Product Editors Genna Patterson, Jessica RyanRegional Senior Cartographer Anthony PhelanCartographer Hunor CsutorosProduct Editor Ronan AbayawickremaBook Designer Mazzy Prinsep

Assisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Sarah Reid, Rosie Nicholson, Katie Connolly, Kellie Langdon, Amy Lynch, Lorna Parkes, Sam WheelerCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Paul Harding, Sandra Henriques Gajjar, Sandie Kestell, Charlotte Orr, Kathryn Rowan, Saralinda Turner, Amanda Williamson

534

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 508accommodation 24, 508-9

language 524pousadas 14, 509 14

activities 42-52, 44-5, see also individual activities

adventure sports 51-2Afife 450airlines 516airports 21, 516air travel

airports 21, 516to/from Portugal 516within Portugal 518

Albufeira 186-8Alcobaça 15, 285-7Alcoutim 180-1Aldeia do Mec 149Alentejo 59, 216-70, 218-219

accommodation 216climate 216food 216highlights 218-19history 217

Alfama 9, 70-1, 74-5, 83, 76-7, 83, 8-9

Algarve 14, 46, 59, 158-215, 160-1, 14

accommodation 158children, travel with 187climate 158food 158highlights 160-1history 159travel to/from 159

Aliança Underground Museum 331

Aljezur 211-13Almancil 184Almeida 361Alte 184-5

Alvito 254Amarante 400-2amusement parks

Aldeia Típica José Franco 142

Aquashow 186Portugal dos Pequenitos

315Slide & Splash 189-215

aquariumsMuseu Marítimo de Ílhavo

332Oceanário de Lisboa 82

aqueductsAqueduto da Água de

Prata 224Aqueduto da Amoreira

241Aqueduto das Águas

Livres 81Aqueduto de Pegões 303

archaeological sites 151Alcáçova 257Anta Grande do Zambu-

jeiro 229-30Calçadinha de São Brás

de Alportel 170Casa Islâmica 257Casa Romana 257Citânia de Briteiros 444Citânia de Santa Luzia

447Conímbriga Roman

Ruins 321Convento do Carmo &

Museu Arqueológico 70Cromeleque dos

Almendres 230, 13Évora 13, 229-30, 13Fonte do Ídolo 433Menhir do Outeiro 233Milreu ruins 169Monumento Natural das

Pegadas dos Dinossáu-rios 296

Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros 67

Parque Arqueológico do

Vale do Côa 409-10Rio Côa 496Ruínas Fenícias de Tavira

173Templo Roman 221Termas Romanas do Alto

da Cividade 434architecture 27, 495-500,

see also notable buildings

Arcos de Valdevez 462-3area codes 514Arraiolos 230Ascensor da Glória 69-

70, 62 art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 28, 495-502, see also

azulejos, individual artsCovilhã 349Lisbon 116Porto 394

ATMs 513automobile associations 22Aveiro 328-33, 329Avenida dos Aliados 370Azenhas do Mar 132azulejos 16, 500-1, 16

Lisbon 70Porto 383Viseu 351-2

BBacalhôa Buddha Eden 278Baleal 273, 34-5Barcelos 19, 439-40bargaining 25baroque architecture 498-9Barragem de Miranda 426Batalha 15, 287-9, 15Batalha de Aljubarrota

Centro de Interpretação 288

beaches 26-7Albufeira 186Algarve 14, 202, 14, 203

Aljezur 211Aveiro 330Baleal 273, 34-5Camilo 195, 27Carrapateira 210-15Cascais 135Colares 132Costa da Caparica 148Dona Ana 195, 203Ericeira 144Faro 164Ilha de Tavira 12, 178, 12Lagos 195, 202Odeceixe 213Parque Natural da

Arrábida 152Praia da Conceicao

135, 137Praia da Figueira 323Praia das Maçãs 132Praia de São Jacinto 330Praia do Cabedelo 447Praia Fluvial 181Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz

232-3Praia Grande 132Sagres 205Setúbal 153Vila do Conde 398-9Vila Nova de Milfontes

265Beiras 15, 60, 306-61, 308-9

accommodation 306climate 306food 306highlights 308-9

Beja 252-6, 253Belém 79-81Belmonte 352Benagil Caves 188, 14berrões 420Biblioteca Joanina 311bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 46

LPN Interpretative & Envi-ronmental Centre 256


535IN

DEX B

–C

Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 13, 164, 13

Parque Natural do Vale do Guadiana 256-7

Reserva Natural das Dunas de São Jacinto 328-30

Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado 152

Reserva Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim e Vila Real de Santo António 180

Serra do Caldeirão 184-6boat travel 47, 378, 518books 474, 499-500

Fátima 493history 486, 487, 488,

489saudade 504walking 49

Braga 18, 432-9, 434accommodation 435-6drinking & nightlife 438entertainment 438festivals & events

433, 435food 436-8history 432shopping 438-9sights 432-5tourist information 439tours 435travel to/from 439

Bragança 418-22, 419Bravães 461bridges

Ponte de Dom Luís I 370Ponte de São Gonçalo

400Ponte Medieval 457Ponte Pedonal Penedos

Altos 348Ponte Romana (Chaves)

417Ponte Romana (Tavira)

173Burgundians 478-9bus travel

to/from Portugal 516-17within Portugal 23, 518,

520, 522business hours 21, 513

CCabo da Roca 132Cabo de São Vicente 11,

207, 11Cabo Espichel 149-50,

38-9

Cacela Velha 178Cacilhas 101Cais da Ribeira 370Cais Palafítico da Car-

rasqueira 269Camera Obscura Tower 173Campo do Gerê 469-70Cante Alentejano 261Capela dos Ossos 221-2car travel

to/from Portugal 517within Portugal 22-3,

520-2Carnaval 29carpets 230Carrapateira 210-11Carrascalinho 429Carvoeiro 188-90Casas Pintadas 223Cascais 133-41, 134, 136-7

accommodation 138beaches 135drinking & nightlife 140festivals & events

135, 138food 138-40shopping 140sights 133-5tourist information 140-1travel to/from 141travel within 138, 141

Cascata do Arado 468Castelo Branco 334-6Castelo de Almourol 300-1Castelo de Vide 246-9castles, see also forts

Alcoutim castelo 180-1Aljezur 211Beja 252Castelo de Almourol

300-1Castelo de Leiria 289-90Castelo de Lindoso 466Castelo de Linhares 358Castelo de Óbidos 277Castelo de Porto de

Mós 295Castelo de São Filipe 153Castelo de São Jorge 71Castelo de São Tiago da

Barra 449Castelo de Sesimbra 150Castelo de Vide 246-7Castelo do Montemor-o-

Velho 322Castelo dos Mouros 124Castro Marim 180Elvas 241-2Fortaleza de Santiago 150

Guimarães 440Marvão 250Mértola 257Monsanto 336Monsaraz 232Moura 263Serpa 261Silves 190Tavira 173Trancoso 359

Castro Marim 180Castro Verde 259-60cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCatholicism 491-4caves

Benagil Caves 188, 14Gruta do Escoural 230Grutas da Moeda 294Grutas de Alvados &

Grutas de Santo António 296

Grutas de Mira de Aire 296

cell phones 20, 514Centro de Diálogo Intercul-

tural de Leiria 290-1Centro de Recuperação do

Lobo Ibérico 143Cerca Velha 102Chaves 415-18, 416Chiado 70, 62children, travel with 47,

509-10Algarve 187Lisbon 99Porto 379

Christianity 477-8churches & cathedrals

Basílica da Estrela 75Braga Sé 432-3Capela de Santo Ovídio

458Capela de São Miguel

313Capela de São Pedro de

Balsemão 403Catedral de São Domin-

gos 330Catedral de Viseu 350-1Convento de Jesus 152-3Escadaria do Bom Jesus

do Monte 433, 18Évora Se 222-3Guarda Sé 357Idanha-a-Velha 338Igreja & Museu São

Roque 70Igreja da Misericórdia

(Arraiolos) 230

Igreja da Misericórdia (Tavira) 173

Igreja da Santa Maria Graça 299

Igreja das Carmelitas 371Igreja de Marvila 298Igreja de Nossa Sen-

hora da Conceição (Santarém) 299

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (Vila Viçosa ) 239

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lagoa 232

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Nazaré 283

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira 441

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo & Capela dos Ossos 163

Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios 402

Igreja de Santa Cruz 313-14

Igreja de Santa Maria (Covilhã) 348

Igreja de Santa Maria (Óbidos) 277

Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo 173

Igreja de Santo António 196

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso 383

Igreja de São Domin-gos 69

Igreja de São Francisco (Évora) 223

Igreja de São Francisco (Faro) 164

Igreja de São Francisco (Guimarães) 441-2

Igreja de São Francisco (Porto) 363

Igreja de São Gualter 441Igreja de São Jão

Baptista 360Igreja de São João 223-4Igreja de São Lourenço

de Matos 184Igreja de São Pedro 164Igreja do Carmo 383Igreja Dos Terceiros

352-3Igreja Matriz 257Igreja Nossa Senhora

Conceição 334Lamego Sé 402Miranda do Douro Sé 426Mosteiro de São Vicente

de Fora 75

536

IND

EX C–

G

churches & cathedrals continued

Nossa Senhora da Conceição 181-2

Portalegre Sé 245Porto Sé 363-8Santuário de Fátima

293-4Santuário de Nossa Sen-

hora da Peneda 464Sé de Lisboa 71, 74Sé (Faro) 162-3Sé (Silves) 190Sé de Lisboa 71, 74Sé Nova 313Sé Velha 311Templo do Sagrado

Coração de Jesus 447Citânia de Briteiros 444climate 20, see also

individual locationscockerels 440Coimbra 17, 307-20, 310-

11, 17accommodation 315-17activities 315drinking & nightlife 318entertainment 318-19festivals & events 315food 317-18history 307information 319shopping 319sights 307-15travel to/from 319travel within 320

Colares 132Comboio Histórico do

Douro 404Comporta 269-70Conímbriga Roman Ruins

321Constância 300-1consulates 511convents, see monasteries

& conventscooking courses 82, 175,

376Costa da Caparica 147-9costs 21Covilhã 347-50, 348credit cards 513Cristo Rei 101Cromeleque do Xerez 234Cromeleque dos

Almendres 230, 13

culture 25, 474-5currency 20cycling 23, 49-50, 518

Cascais 138Costa da Caparica 148Lagos 198Lisbon 84, 121Ponte de Lima 458Porto 396-7Setúbal 153Sintra 127Viseu 353

Dda Gama, Vasco 479dance

Lisbon 114pauliteiros 427Porto 392

Dão wine region 354design 27Dine 423dinosaurs 151disabilities, travellers

with 508discount cards 122, 397diving 43-7

Algarve 46Carvoeiro 189Cascais 135Lagos 197Peniche 274Praia da Rocha 194Sagres 207Sesimbra 150

Dom Pedro 286Douro 12, 60, 362-429,

364-5, 366, 12,accommodation 362climate 362food 362highlights 364-5

Douro gorge 429drinking & nightlife 9, 28,

9, see also individual locations

drinks 26, see also wine, ginjinha, port

driving, see car travel

Eearthquake of 1755 483economics 474-5economy 485, 489-90electricity 510-11Elevador de Santa Justa 69Elvas 240-3, 241embassies 511emergencies 21, 527

emigration 424, 503-4Entradas 260environmental issues 475Ericeira 144-7, 146Ermelo 414Escadaria do Bom Jesus do

Monte 433, 18Escola de Rendas de

Bilros 273Esposende 450Estói 169Estoril 141-2Estrela mountain dog 344Estremadura 60, 271-305,

272accommodation 271climate 271food 271highlights 272

Estremoz 235-8, 236etiquette 25events, see festivals &

eventsÉvora 11, 217-29, 220-1,

11, 36-7accommodation 225-6activities 224-5drinking & nightlife 228festivals & events 225food 226-8history 217, 221tours 225shopping 228-9sights 221-4tourist information 229travel to/from 229travel within 229

FFábrica de Brinquedos 184fado 13, 505-6, 13

Casa Museu de Amália Rodrigues 75

Fado no Castelo 30Lisbon 112Museu do Fado 74-5Porto 393

family travel, see children, travel with

Faro 159, 162-8, 162-3Farol da Nazaré 283Fátima 293-5, 493-4Fátima Romaris 29Festa de Santo António

30, 87Festa de São João 30Festa de São Pedro 87Festas dos Santos

Populares 87

festivals & events 17, 29-31, 55, see also individual locations

Figueira da Foz 323-7, 324film 474, 493, 504-5, 506Fisgas de Ermelo 414Fóia 215Folgosinho 358-9food 17, 18, 26, 53-8, 525-7,

17, 18football 114, 392-3Fórnea 296forts

Cidadela 420Cidadela de Cascais

133-4Fortaleza de Peniche 273Fortaleza de Sagres

205-7Fortaleza de Valença

453-4Forte da Graça 242Forte de Santa Luzia 242Forte de São Francisco

417Ruinas da Fortaleza de

Arrifana 211Torre de Belém 80

Foz do Arelho 280Fraga do Puio 429fuel 521

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 512-13

Lisbon 113Porto 393

Gil Eannes 447ginjinha bars 110golf 141, 182Gothic architecture 496-7Gouveia 343-4Gruta do Escoural 230Grutas da Moeda 294-5Grutas de Alvados 296Grutas de Mira de Aire 296Grutas de Santo António

296Guarda 355-8, 356Guimarães 440-6, 442

Hhealth 21, 511-12highlights 8-19hiking, see walkinghistoric buildings, see

notable buildings


537IN

DEX H

– M

historic villages 28history 476-90, see also

archaeological sites, individual locations

Age of Discoveries 479-82books 486, 487, 488, 489Burgundian era 478-9Catholicism 491-4Christianity 477-8, 491-4early peoples 476earthquake of 1755 483historic villages 28Inquisition 492Knights Templar 304Moors 477-8, 492Neanderthals 476, 489recent 487-90republicanism 483-6Roman settlement 477,

495-6Salazar, António de

Oliveira 485, 486-7Spanish rule 482-3Vasco da Gama 479WWI 486WWII 487

hitching 522holidays 513horse riding 52

Albufeira 187Campo do Gerês 469Comporta 269Silves 191Sintra 127Lagos 197-8Marvão 250

IIdanha-a-Velha 338Ilha de Tavira 12, 178-9, 12Inquisition 492insurance

car 521health 511travel 512

internet access 512internet resources 21

accessible travel 508travel advice 512, 514

itineraries 32-41, 67, 83, 366-7, 377, 32, 34, 37, 38, 83, 366, 377

JJudaism 494, 506

Kkayaking

Albufeira 186-7

Carvoeiro 189Coimbra 315Faro 164Lagos 198Mértola 257-8

kitesurfing 47Minho 450Peniche 274Tavira 175

Knights Templar 304

LLagos 195-204, 196, 200,

202-3accommodation 198-9activities 197-8drinking & nightlife

200-1entertainment 201food 199history 195shopping 201sights 195-7tourist information 201tours 198travel to/from 204travel within 204

Lamas de Ôlo 414Lamego 367, 402-3language 20, 25, 426,

524-31legal matters 512Leiria 289-92, 290LGBT+ travellers 512-13

Lisbon 113Porto 393

Linhares 358-9Lisbon 59, 63-124, 64-5,

68, 72-3, 76-7, 84-5, 92, 96, 105, 108, 9, 33, 62

accommodation 63, 86-94, 88-9

activities 82-5Alfama 9, 70-1, 74-5, 83,

76-7, 83, 8-9Chiado 70, 62children, travel with 99climate 63drinking & nightlife 9,

107-12entertainment 112-14festivals & events

85-6, 87food 63, 94-107highlights 64-5history 66itineraries 67LGBT+ travellers 113

Parque das Nações 81-5, 108

safety 119shopping 114-19sights 67-82tourist information

119-20travel to/from 120-2travel within 90, 121,

122-4walking tours 83, 102, 83

literature 499-500, 504Loulé 181-4, 182Luso 320-2

MMafra 142-4Manteigas 344-6Manueline architecture

497-8maps 513marble 239Marialva 360markets

Aljezur 213Aveiro 330, Barcelos 19, 439, 19Braga 437Cascais 140Coimbra 317Estremoz 238Évora 226, 229Lagos 199Lamego 403Lisbon 95-6, 115, 116,

118, 57Loulé 183-4Porto 375-6, 395, 57Sagres 208Setúbal 156Tavira 172Viseu 354

Marvão 249-52Mata Nacional do Buçaco

320measures 510megaliths 13, 229-30, 233,

234, 248, 250, 13Menhir de Bulhoa 234Mértola 256-9, 36-7Milreu 169Minho 60, 430-72, 431

accommodation 430climate 430food 430highlights 431

miradourosMiradouro da Pedra Bela

467-8

Miradouro da Vitória 371Miradouro de São Pedro

de Alcântara 70Miradouro de Trás-do-

Cemitério 411Miradouro do Forno 336Miradouro do Sítio 283Miradouro Ribeira d’Ilhas

144Miradouro São Leonardo

de Galafur 407Parque Natural do Douro

Internacional 429Miranda do Douro 425-8Mirandês 426mobile phones 20, 514Moimenta 423Moledo 450monasteries & convents

Convento da Arrábida 152

Convento de Cristo 301-3

Convento de Santa Clara-a-Nova 314

Convento de Santa Clara-a-Velha 314-15

Convento de Santa Cruz do Buçaco 321

Convento de São Fran-cisco 299

Convento dos Capuchos 127

Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar 374

Mosteiro de Salzedas 404

Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória 15, 287-8, 15

Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaça 285-6

Mosteiro de Santa Marinha da Costa 441

Mosteiro de São Gonçalo 400

Mosteiro de São João de Tarouca 403-4

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 79-80, 27

Monção 455-7Monchique 214-15Mondim de Basto 415money 20, 21, 510, 513Monsanto 336-8Monsaraz 231-5Montalegre 472Monte de Santa Luzia 447Montemor-o-Velho 322-3Monterosa Olive Oil 171Montesinho 423Moors 477-8, 492

538

IND

EX M–

M

motorcycle travel 517, 520-2Moura 263-5museums & galleries

Alfândega Regia Museu da Construção Naval 398

Aliança Underground Museum 331

Barroso Eco Museu 472Burel Factory 344Casa da Cultura 152Casa da Inquisição 246Casa da Ribeira 352Casa das Histórias Paula

Rego 133Casa de José Régio 398-9Casa do Barco 398Casa Museu Bissaya

Barreto 314Casa Museu de Amália

Rodrigues 75Casa Museu Passos

Canavarro 297-8Centro Ciênia Viva de

Lagos 195-6Centro Cultural de

Cascais 135Centro de Arqueologia e

Artes 252Centro de Arte Contem-

porânea Graça Morais 420-1

Centro de Interpretacão da Serra da Estrela 341

Centro Histórico Judaico de Faro 164

Centro Interpretativo das Memórias da Miser-icórdia de Braga 433

Centro Português de Fotografia 371

Cidade de Ammaia 249Coleção de Carruagens

223Espaço Porto Cruz

371, 374Fórum Eugénio de

Almeida 223Lagar de Varas do Fojo

264MCCB 288Museu Alberto Gordillo

264Museu Alberto Sampaio

441Museu Almeida Moreira

352

Museu Alvarinho 455Museu Amadeo de

Souza-Cardoso 400Museu Arqueológico

Martins Sarmento 441Museu Calouste Gul-

benkian Coleção do Fundador 78-9

Museu Cargaleiro 335Museu Coleção

Berardo 80Museu Condes de Castro

Guimarães 134Museu da Casa Grande

410Museu da Ciência 312-13Museu da Cultura

Castreja 444Museu da Guarda 357Museu da Lucerna 260Museu da Marioneta 75Museu da Misericórdia

do Porto 369-70Museu da Presidência da

República 81Museu da Região

Flaviense 417Museu da Renda de

Bilros 273Museu da Ruralidade 260Museu da Tapeçaria

de Portalegre Guy Fino 243

Museu da Terra de Miranda 426

Museu das Artes de Sintra 127

Museu das Rendas de Bilros 398

Museu de Arqueologia & Museu de Caça 238-9

Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia 80-1

Museu de Arte Contem-porânea de Elvas 242

Museu de Arte Sacra e Etnologia 294

Museu de Artes Decora-tivas (Lisbon) 71

Museu de Artes Decorativas (Viana do Castelo) 447

Museu de Aveiro/Santa Joana 330

Museu de Cera dos Descobrimentos 195

Museu de Francisco Tavares Proença Júnior 335

Museu de Lamego 402Museu de Lanifícios

347-8

Museu de Leiria 290Museu de Marinha 99Museu de Portimão 192Museu Diocesano de

Santarém 298-9Museu do Abade de

Baçal 420Museu do Aljube 71Museu do Brinquedo 341Museu do Brinquedo

Português 457Museu do Carro Eléc-

trico 375Museu do Douro 404Museu do Évora 223Museu do Fado 74-5Museu do Fresco 232Museu do Mar e da Terra

da Carrapateira 210Museu do Mar Rei Dom

Carlos 135Museu do Oriente 77-8Museu do Pão 341-2Museu do Relógio 261Museu do Trabalho

Michel Giacometti 153Museu do Traje (São

Brás de Alportel) 169-70

Museu do Traje (Viana do Castelo) 447

Museu Dom Diogo de Sousa 433-4

Museu dos Biscainhos 433

Museu dos Descobri-mentos 352

Museu dos Fósforos 303 Museu dos Terceiros 458Museu e Fundação

Robinson 243-4Museu Etnográfico 261Museu Grão Vasco 350Museu Histórico Militar

de Almeida 361Museu Ibérico da Más-

cara e do Traje 420Museu Islâmico 257Museu Judaico de

Belmonte 352Museu Luso-Hebraico

Abraham Zacuto 303Museu Marítimo de

Ílhavo 332Museu Municipal (Alje-

zur) 211Museu Municipal

(Estremoz) 235-6Museu Municipal

(Faro) 163Museu Municipal (Lagos)

196-7

Museu Municipal (Loulé) 182

Museu Municipal (Mar-vão) 250

Museu Municipal (Óbi-dos) 277

Museu Municipal (Por-talegre) 244-5

Museu Municipal de Arqueologia 190-1

Museu Municipal de Arte Moderna Abel Manta 343-4

Museu Municipal Dr Santos Rocha 323

Museu Nacional de Arqueologia 80

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga 79

Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro 312

Museu Nacional dos Coches 80

Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis 371

Museu Paleocristão 257Museu Regional de

Beja 252Museu Regional do

Algarve 164Museu Relogio 224Museu Visigótico 252Núcleo Islâmico 174Núcleo Museológico da

Rua do Sembrano 252Nucleo Museológico de

Campo do Gerês 469Núcleo Museológico do

Sal 323Padrão dos Descobri-

mentos 81Palácio da Cidadela de

Cascais 133Palácio da Galeria 173Palácio dos Marqueses

da Praia e Monforte 235

Panteão Nacional 75Pavilhão do Conheci-

mento 82Pólo Museológico

Cândido Guerreiro e Condes de Alte 185

Pólo Museológico da Água 185

Pólo Museológico de Salir 184-5

Serralves 380Synagogue & Museum

246music 28, 261, 474, 504,

see also fado


539IN

DEX M

–P

Nnational parks & reserves

Lagoas de Bertiandos e São Pedro de Arcos 458

Mata Nacional do Buçaco 320-2

Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 19, 463-72, 464, 19

Parque Natural da Arrábida 152

Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 13, 164, 13

Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela 18, 339-49, 340, 18

Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros 296-7

Parque Natural de Mon-tesinho 422-5, 423

Parque Natural do Alvão 413-15

Parque Natural do Douro Internacional 428-9

Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina 209-10

Parque Natural do Tejo Internacional 335

Parque Natural do Vale do Guadiana 256-7

Quinta de Marim 171Reserva Natural da

Berlenga 46,276Reserva Natural das

Dunas de São Jacinto 328-30

Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado 152

Reserva Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim e Vila Real de Santo António 180

Tapada Nacional de Mafra 142-3

Nazaré 281-5, 282Neanderthals 476, 489newspapers 510nightlife 9, 28, 9, see also

drinking & nightlife in individual locations

notable buildingsAntigos Paços do

Concelho 441Casa do Infante 370Centro de Cultura

Contemporânea de Castelo Branco 335

Convento dos Lóios 224Fundação José Sar-

amago Casa dos Bicos 75

Lagar de Varas 338Livraria Lello 370Mãe d’Água 79Palácio da Bolsa 368-9Plataforma das Artes e

Criatividade 441Prisão Acadêmica 313-61São Bento Train Station

370Nova Cortiça 170

OÓbidos 16, 276-80, 16Óbidos, Josefa de 501-2Observatório do Lago

Alqueva 232Ocean Revival Underwater

Park 46Odeceixe 213-14Olhão 170-2opening hours 21, 513outdoor activities 42-52,

44-5

Ppacking 24painting 501-2palaces

Casa de Mateus 411Paço das Escolas 313Paço dos Duques de

Bragança 441Paço Ducal 238Paço Reial 235Palácio & Parque de

Monserrate 125-6Palácio Cadaval 224Palácio da Brejoeira 455Palácio de Belém 81Palácio de Queluz 139Palacio do Buçaco 321Palácio Nacional da

Ajuda 81Palácio Nacional da Pena

124-5Palácio Nacional da Pena

124, 10Palácio Nacional de

Mafra 142Palácio Nacional de

Sintra 124Paleolithic era 495paragliding 51-2parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Jardim Botânico 314Jardim Botânico

Tropical 81

Jardim da Cerca da Graça 71

Jardim da Estrela 75Jardim das Oliveiras 264Jardim das Portas do

Sol 298Jardim de Santa Bárbara

434Jardim do Infante Dom

Henrique 370Jardim do Morro 371Jardim do Paço Episco-

pal 335Jardim do Passeio Alegre

376Jardim Dr Santiago &

Spa 263-4Jardim Público 224Jardins da Quinta das

Lágrimas 314Jardins d’Água 99Jardins do Palácio de

Cristal 374-5Mata Nacional dos Sete

Montes 303Palácio de Queluz 139Parque da Cidade 376Parque da Pena 125Parque de Serralves 380Parque do Fontelo 352Parque Eduardo VII 99Parque Marechal

Carmona 134Parque Temático do

Arnado 458Quinta da Regaleira 130

Parque Nacional da Peneda- Gerês 19, 463-72, 464, 19

hiking 464-5, 466, 468, 470-1

protected areas 466tourist information 463travel to/from 463

Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela 18, 339-49, 340, 18

activities 340-1Estrela mountain

dog 344tourist information 341travel to/from 341

Parque Natural de Mon-tesinho 422-5, 423

Parque Natural do Alvão 413-15

Penedo Durão 429Penedono 360Penha das Torres 429Penha Garcia 337Penhas da Saúde 347

Penhas Douradas 345Peniche 273-6Peso da Régua 367, 404-6Pessoa, Fernando 498photography 52Pinhal de Leiria 292-3Pinhão 367, 406-9, 367Piódão 333-4planalto 360planning

budgeting 21calendar of events 29children, travel with 47,

99, 187, 379, 509-10first-time travellers 24-5internet resources 21,

508, 512, 514itineraries 32-41, 32, 34,

37, 38 32-41, 67, 83, 366-7, 377, 32, 34, 37, 38, 83, 366, 377

Portugal basics 20-1Portugal’s highlights

8-19Portugal’s regions 59-60travel seasons 20

Poço do Inferno 344-5poetry 498politics 474-5, 489-90Ponta da Piedade 195Ponte da Barca 461-2Ponte de Dom Luís I 370Ponte de Lima 457-61population 474-5port 26, 378, 390Porta Férrea 313Portalegre 243-6, 244Portimão 192-3Porto 10, 60, 362-429,

364-5, 368-9, 372-3, 384, 10, 35

accommodation 362, 380-3

children, travel with 379climate 362drinking & nightlife

389-92entertainment 392-3festivals & events

378-80food 362, 383-9highlights 364-5history 363shopping 393-5sights 363, 368-371,

374-6street art 394tourist information 395tours 376-8travel to/from 395-6

540

IND

EX P–

V

Porto continuedtravel within 396-8walking tours 376, 377,

377Porto Côvo 268-9Porto de Mós 295-6Portuguese 524-31Portuguese exploration

479-82postal services 513pottery 231pousadas 14, 509, 14Praça do Comércio 67Praia da Conceicao 135,

137Praia da Rocha 193-5Praia de Mira 327-8Promontório do Sítio 282public holidays 513

QQuatro Águas 174-5Queima das Fitas 315Queluz 139Querença 185-210Quinta da Regaleira 130

Rradio 510Rego, Paula 502Reguengos de Monsaraz 231religion 475, 491-4Reserva Natural da

Berlenga 46, 276reserves, see national

parks & reservesRibatejo 60, 271, 272, 297-

305, 272accommodation 271cimate 271food 271highlights 272

Ribeira 363-400Ribeira das Naus 69rideshare services 522Rio Caldo 470-1Rio de Onor 422-3rock art 409, 496rock climbing 51-2Rodrigues, Amália 505-6Roman settlement 477,

495-6Romaria de Nossa Senhora

d’Agonia 31

Rua de Santa Catarina 371Rua de São Bento da

Vitória 371ruins, see archaeological

sites

SSabugueiro 342safety 513

driving 521-2hitching 522health hazards 511-12 internet resources

512, 514women travellers 515

Sagres 205-9, 206Salazar, António de Oliveira

485, 486-7Salema 204-5Salir 184-5Santa Luzia 175Santarém 297-300, 298Santiago de Compost-

ela 48Santo André 429São Brás De Alportel

169-70São Domingos 259São João das Arribas 429São Martinho do Porto

280-1São Pedro do Corval 231São Salvador do Mundo

408Sapinha 429saudade 503-6Seia 341-3Semana Santa 29Sernancelhe 360Serpa 260-3, 262Serra da Boa Viagem 323Serra do Caldeirão 184-6Serralves 380Serralves em Festa 30Sesimbra 46, 150-2Setúbal 152-7, 154Setúbal Peninsula 147-57Silves 190-2Sintra 10, 124-31, 126,

129, 10accommodation 127-8activities 127drinking & nightlife 130entertainment 130festivals & events 127food 128-30, 131sights 124-7tourist information 130-1travel to/from 131

travel within 131 Siza Vieira, Álvaro 497skiing 52, 341, 347smoking 510soccer 114, 392-3Sortelha 15, 338-41, 15Souto de Moura, Eduardo

497street art 349, 394Supertubos 43, 273surfing 42-3

Aljezur 211-12Aveiro 330Cascais 135Costa da Caparica 148Ericeira 144-5Escola de Surf da Figue-

ira da Foz 323Lagos 197Minho 450Nazaré 283, 284Odeceixe 213Peniche 273-4Praia de Mira 327Praia Grande 132Sagres 207Viana do Castelo 449Vila Nova de Milfontes

265sustainable energy 475

Ttapetes 232Tavira 172-8, 174, 38-39taxis 522Teleférico de Gaia 374telephone services 514television 510Termas de Chaves 417Termas de Luso 321-2Termas de Monção 455Termas de Monchique

Spa 214Termas do Gerês 468time 20, 514tipping 25toilets 514Tomar 15, 301-5, 302Torre 347Torre da Cadeia Velha 458Torre da Universidade 313Torre de Menagem 417Torre de São Paulo 458Torre dos Clérigos 370-1Torre Fernandina 240-1tourism 475tourist information 514,

see also individual locations

tours 48-9, 50, 522, see also individual locations

train travelto/from Portugal 517-18,

519within Portugal 23, 522-3

Tram 28E 90tram travel 522

Lisbon 90Porto 398

Trancoso 359-61Trás-os-Montes 60, 411-29,

364-5travel to/from Portugal 21,

516-18travel within Portugal 22-3,

518-23trekking, see walkingTrilhos Verdes 345

UUniversidade de Coimbra

307, 311

Vvacations 513Valença do Minho 453-4Viana do Castelo 446-53,

448-9accommodation 449-51activities 449drinking 452entertainment 452festivals & events 449,

451-2food 451-2history 447shopping 452sights 447-9tourist information 452travel to/from 452-3travel within 453

Vila do Conde 398-400Vila do Gerês 467-9Vila Nova de Foz Côa

409-11Vila Nova de Gaia 366-7Vila Nova de Milfontes

265-7Vila Real 411-13, 412Vila Real de Santo António

179Vila Viçosa 238-40vinho verde 456visas 514Viseu 350-5, 351Visigothic tombs 359volunteering 514-15


541IN

DEX V

–Z

Wwalking 47-9

Capela da Senhora da Graça 415

Dão Greenway 353Ecopista 295Mosteiro de Santa Maria

das Júnias Loop 470Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 464-5, 466, 468, 470-1

Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela 340-61

Parque Natural do Alvão 414

Parque Natural do Douro Internacional 428

Penhas Douradas 345Percurso dos Sete

Vales Suspensos 189Rocha da Pena 185Rota Vicentina 213, 266São João de Fraga

Hike 470-1Trilhos Verdes 345Vale do Zêzere 345Via Algarviana 181

walking tours 48-9, see also individual locations

water 512weather 20, 29-31, see also

individual locationswebsites, see internet

resourcesweights 510wildlife watching 50-1,

see also birdwatching, national parks & reserves

windsurfing 47wine 26, 378, 390, 456

wine regionsAlentejo 224-5Dão 354Douro 12, 366-7, 366, 12Minho 456Pinhão 406-7Ribatejo 297

wolves 143women travellers 515work 515

ZZambujeira Do Mar 268

542

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Regis St LouisThe Alentejo Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which has served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Regis also wrote the Plan section.

Kerry Walker Porto Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and Lonely Planet author, specialising in Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored/co-authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold places and true wilderness. Kerry’s insatiable wanderlust has taken her to all seven continents and shows no sign of waning. She features her latest work at its-a-small-world.com and tweets @kerryawalker.

Kerry also wrote the Understand section.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – Nov 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 801 3© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in Hong KongAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSGregor Clark The Douro & Trás-os-Montes, the Minho Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 US states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Titles include Italy, France, Brazil, Costa Rica, Argentina, Portugal, Switzerland and Mexico.

Duncan Garwood The Beiras From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to the Mediterranean and Italy, his adopted homeland, where he has been living since 1997. He’s worked on more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Spain and Portugal, and has contributed to books on food and epic drives.

Catherine Le Nevez The Algarve Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Eu-rope from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to some 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. Over the past decade-and-a-half she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris,

France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publica-tions. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.

Kevin RaubLisbon, Greater Lisbon, Estremadura & Ribatejo Atlanta native Kevin Raub start-ed his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written over 70 Lonely Planet guides, focusing mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-con-

fessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

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