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NI DUNG1. TNG QUAN V HNG LIU

2. M T HNG LIU & THC HNH PBIT NOTES HNG LIU

3. CC VN V K THUT NH GIHUNG TRONG THC T SN XUT V

NG DNG

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Phn 1

TNG QUAN V HNG L

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NI DUNG

A. HNG LIU V PHM VI S DN

B. TM QUAN TRNG CA HNG LTRONG I SNG

C. CC DNG HNG LIU THEO TRTHI VT L, NG DNG V U NIM CA TNG DNG HNG LI

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HNG LIU KHI NIM V LCH S PHT TRIN

Hng liu l nhng hn hp cc cu t c mi c trng c trong cc cht mang gi l carrier. Mi thm ca hng liu l dng mi tng hp ca tt c cc cu t.

Cu t mang hng l nhng thnh phn tao nn mi v

v c trng cho tng loi hng liu. V hn hp hng liu s c th c cu thnh t 30 cu t n hng tr ln

Cht mang Carrier c tc dng ha tan cc cu t mang

hng v trong sn phm. Cht mang c th l dng lng hoc bt ty thuc vo dng hng liu. Thng thng thnhng cht mang khng c mi v thng khng phn ng vi nhng thnh phn nguyn liu to mi thm

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HNG LIU KHI NIM V LCH S PHT TRIN

T xa xa, con ngi bit s dng nhng cht thm ch yu l tinh du n cht nhng ph bin ch yu trongthnh phn qu tc v nhng hot ng tn gio. Khi , conngi xem hng liu nh l mt cu ni gia con ngi

vi th gii tm linh v nh to nn nhng iu k diu.T th k 16 tr i cng nghip hng liu ra i vi nhng bc tin r rt trong vic phi trn cc loi tinh du khcnhau to ra nhng loi hng liu n gin by gi.

Ngy nay, ngnh cng nghip hng liu c nhng bc pht trin vt bc c v s lng ln cht lng. Con ngi s dng hng liu trong nhiu lnh vc nhm phc v chocc nhu cu hng ngy nh n ung, chm sc c nhn, tr liu v.v v hng liu tr thnh mt phn khng th thiu trong cuc sng hng ngy

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C CH NGI MI CU TO MI

cm nhn c mithm, mi phi c t bokhu gic. mi ngi bnhthng c khong 5 triu t bo ny. l cc nron songcc, c lng khu gic hng v pha nim mc mi, cnsi trc ni vi nron a cc.T cc nron a cc, cc si

trc i ra to thnh dy thn kinh khu gic. Ni tip xcgia nron song cc vnron a cc l cc bi khu gic, mi bi nhn khong 23.000 si trc.

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C CH NGI MI C CH NHN BIT MI HNG

C ch nhn bit ngo ngt hng bay ca mi l mt c ch ha hc, trong cu trckhng gian ca phn t mang

mi c ngha quyt nh.Mi phn t mi c mt cu trc ring. Mun nhn bit c mi, phn t mi phi tip xc vi t bo khu gic.Cht mi no cng d bay hi th cng d kch thch khu gic.

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C CH NGI MI C CH NHN BIT MI HNG

Mi cht mi c mt ngng miring (tnh theo t l s phn t t do trong mt th tch khngkh nht nh). Mc mihng ph thuc vo s nguynt carbon trong phn t cht to mi. Khi s nguyn t carboncng t th mi hng cng r vngc li. S d nh vy v carbon

cng nhiu th trng lng phnt cng ln v cht to mi cngkh bay hi. V nu phn t cht khng bay hi c th lmsao mi c th tc ng vo t bo khu gic.

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C CH NGI MI C CH NHN BIT MI HNG

Theo thuyt ha hc lp th, h thng khu gic gm nhiu t bo nhn cm, mi t bo tng ng vi mt mi c bn ring

bit. V phn t gy ra cm gicmi bng cch nm gn vo phn nhn ca t bo , tng t nh cha no ch tra ng vo

kha y. Mt s phn t mi cth lt va vo 2-3 phn nhn cm c dng khc nhau, to rami phc hp, pha trn gia 2-3mi c bn.

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C CH NGI MI C CH NHN BIT MI HNG

Theo thuyt vt l phn t thmi pht ra nhng sng v tuyn m t bo khu gic s thu nh my thu thanh, thu hnh. Theo

trng phi ny, ngi ta hy vng s to ra c nhng phim phtra mi: Bn cnh ng ghi mthanh c ng cc sng mi chophp khn gi c cm gic v minh mi thuc sng trong cctrn chin u, hay mi hoa hng khi thy cnh vn hoa.

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THNH PHN NGUYN PH

THC PHM

M PHM & CNG NGHIP

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NGUYN LIUHNG THC PHM

Thnh phn t nhinC th ni phn ln nguyn liu t nhin l nhng tinhdu c chit xut t t nhin nh t l, t ht, t g hoc t c cy.

Thnh phn bn t nhinL nhng cu t c hng c tng hp bng qutrnh ha hc, nhng nhng cht cng l nhng cht c sn trong t nhin. V d: Ethyl butyrate cotrong du tay c th c tng hp t phn ng esterha ca Etanol v Butyric Acid.

Thnh phn tng hp Phn ng l cc hp cht tng hp c tnh cht to mi khng c mc trong t nhin v thng c tng hp ch yu t cc ngun nguyn liu t du m.

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NGUYN LIU HNG M P T NHIN

TNG HP

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NGUYN LIU T NHIN Essential oils: l hn hp ca nhng thnh phn c mi c bn c

sn trong cy v c th ly t nhiu b phn khc nhau ca cy nh l, hoa, cnh, ht c chit xut ch yu bng chng ct

Concrete: l hn hp chit xut tinh cht ca cc cht hng t nhin bng dung mi hoc cht bo. Trong Concrete c cha khnhiu cc acid bo mch di v thng khng tan trong cn.Phng php chit tch concrete thng rt c v ch s dng vi nhng loi nguyn liu c bn thp v sn lng thp khng th chng ct c

Resinoid: l hn hp chit xut ca nhng nguyn liu hng dng rn nh nha thng, h phch

Absolutes: l hn hp hng sau khi c chit xut bng cn t Concrete v Resinoid. V khi , hn hp nguyn liu mi ny s khng cn cha nhng loi sp khng mi c trong qu trnh chit tch ban u. V hn hp nguyn liu ny l dng hon ton tantrong cn.

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U NHC IM Hng liu s c mi c trng v ging

t nhin hn

Hn ch trong thnh phn to hng

Gi thnh cao

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NGUYN LIU TNG H L dng nguyn liu c tng hp t qutrnh ha hc to ra cc dng phn t c mi c trng ca cc dng nguynliu t do.

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U NHC IM a gii php hn ch s dng nguyn liu t nhin.

To s n nh cao trong sn phm hn l nguyn liu t nhin

Phn ln nguyn liu dng tng hp c th phn ng vi nhau to nn mi c trng hn cho sn phm.

Vi nhiu loi nguyn liu tng hp mi, ta c th ti cu trc li nhng mi thm c bit ca nhiu loi hoa v tri cy m thngthng nhng nguyn liu t nhin dng ny khng th chit tch

a thm vo trong nguyn liu nhng thnh phn mi c tnhc trng hn v tt hn so vi nguyn liu t nhin

Nguyn liu tng hp thng phi c nghin cu mt cch ludi v tc dng cung nh l nhng nh hng trc tip i vi con ngi. Chnh v vy m hng nm u c mt s nhng nguyn liu buc phi ngng s dng.

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PHM V S DNG C th ni mt cch n gin nht, bt k nhng sn phm c mi u l i tng ca ngnh cng nghip v hng liu.Chng ta c th chia phm vi s dng hng liu ra thnh 3 ngnh chnh l thc phm, m phm v cng nghip. iu nyth hin tnh a dng ca cng nghip hng liu.

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TM QUAN TRNG CA HLIU TRONG I SNG

Hng liu dng lm th gin:C th thy phbin trong spa, trong du massage, trong nhngsn phm air care. Nhm to cm gic d chu,th gin v x stress V d: Lavender, Lily,Orchid.

To cm gic hng phn d chu trong cc hotng hng ngy nh v sinh c nhn hng ngynh nh rng, tm gi, lm p.

To nn nhng c trng ring cho chnh mnh nh nc hoa, cologne, ln kh mi.

To cm gic d chu cho nhng cng vic nich hng ngy vi nhng mi hng d chu chocc sn phm bt git, nc git, nc ra chn,lu sn, x vi, lau chi

To nn mi hng d chu c tc dng che lp

cc sn phm cng nghip c mi kh chu nhnha, nht, sn, cao su.

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Vi vic ny, mt s ngi cho rng l chng ta tip xcn ha cht mi ngy v t e d cho nhng sn phm ny. Tuy nhin, chng ta phi hiu rng vi vic phttrin hng liu trong thc t to nn nhng bc pht trin v cng gii quyt c nhiu vn v xhi nh: to s thoi mi v gii quyt c vn thc phm trong cng ng

Tuy nhin, ngy nay, ngnh cng nghip v hng liu c pht trin nhiu v c nhng yu cu v anton sc khe cho ngi s dng nhiu hn bng mt s cc ch tiu cho cc sn phm hng liu nh PB,MSDS, HC, IFRA, HALAL nhm m bo cho cc sn phm l sch, thn thin mi trng v m bo sc khe ngi tiu dng

TM QUAN TRNG CA HLIU TRONG I SNG

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CC DNG HNG LIUNG DNG CA TNG DNG

C th chia thnh 5 loi c bn sau Dng lng

Dng paste Dng bt Dng vin nn

Dng vin bao

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DNG LNGLIQUID FORM

L dng hng liu nguyn thy k t khi bt u xut hin cho n nay vn cn c s dng. Dng lng ch l mt hn hp cc nguyn liu hng liu trong dung mi.

Dung mi ch yu trong hng liu lng thng dng nh l:

Thc phm: Propylene Glycol, Triacetine,Palm oil, Water, Alcohol, Glucose Syrup. M phm: Dipropylene Glycol, EthylPhtalate, Tergitol, Cermophor C40,Alcohol.

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U, NHC IM V NG D L dng n gin d s dng cng nh l bo qun C hai dng ph bin l hng liu tan trong nc v hng liu tan

trong du.

Trong m phm, phn ng hng liu l dng tan trong du, do sn phm m phm ch yu l mt h bao gm hn hp cc cht hot ng b mt. Tuy nhin vn c hng liu tan trong nc trong m phm, nhng phm v s dng tng i c bit v hng thng khng a dng nh hng tan trong du do hu ht nguyn liu u lnhng dng tan trong du.

Trong thc phm, hng dng lng c s dng kh ph bin c haidng l tan trong nc v trong du.

Hng liu dng lng thng c shelf-life l 1nm

Gi thnh hng liu ty thuc vo nguyn liu tng hp nn hng.

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DNG BT POWDER FORM

L dng hng liu mi, c pht trin trong qu trnhs dng nhm phc v cho cc sn phm mi m hng dng lng khng th s dng hoc hn ch s dng.

Hng bt l dng nguyn liu c trn n gin t nhng cht to hng vi cht n hay c sy phun nhit v p sut cao spray dried trong hng

lng c a ln mt dng cht mang carrier. Carrier thng dng nh l maltodextrine,

monodextrine,

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U NHC IM V NG DL dng hng liu c s dng ch yu trong thc phm vi phm vich dng trong cc sn phm dng kh nh l nc tri cyha tan, sa bt. V d: bt cam Tang, Lipton Ice Tea, Nestea, sa bt,.

Khisn xut hng bt th lng hao ph l kh ln do cn phi sy phun, nn gi thnh s cao hn nhiu so vi dng hng liu lng cng thnh phn.

Ngoi ra, hng liu dng bt rt kh to dng concentration dotnh cht mt mt trong qu trnh sn xut v khng th so ngangv mnh vi hng lng cng direction.

Ngoi ra, hng bt thnh phm cng khng th gi c nguynbn directiont hng dng lng ban u.

Tuy nhin, trong m phm vn c th c s dng. Nhng ch lcho cc sn phm cao cp v hn ch trong vn s dng do githnh cao

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DNG VIN NN GRANULATED

V c bn l hng dng bt c nn p to dng ln hn.

Nhng ton b ch l dng trong thc phm m thi v tnhcht c trng .

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U NHC IM V NG D

c s dng ch yu trong tr ti lc c hng. V mt sn phm, sn phm tr s c c mi thm dai v tot mithm nhanh lm cho ngi s dng cm thy d chp nhn.

Tuy nhin, hng dng nn li c nhc im l ha tan lu.iu ny gy cn tr s tot mi thm trong qu trnh s dng, nhng li c hiu qu cho hng lu c lu hn khis dng sn phm.

Hng dng granulated c shelf-life l 1nm

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DNG VIN BAO ENCAPSULATED

L dng hng lng c bao bc bn trong ca mt lp hydrate carbon gip cho hng liu c n nh v mt cht lng trong thi gian di.

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U NHC IM V NG DHng liu c bo qun tt hn v c thi gian s dng luhn (4 nm)

Hng liu dng ny rt kh sn xut v cn c mt k thut cao v cng ngh v my mc.

Cng nh dng vin nn, dng vin bao c to ra nhm mc ch cho cc sn phm c bit. V dng sn phm l tr ti lc, do tnh cht d ha tan trong nc ca n, v th khi c ha tan vo trong nc s dng c th to hiu ng mnh cho ngi s dng.

Sn phm ny cng gy ra mt nhc im ln l kh ta mithm v hng liu c bc trong mt lp hydrate carbon, vch tot mi thm khi v bc b v ra. Chng ta c th khc phc nhc im bng cch s dng hng lng km theo ccng direction.

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Phn 2 CCH NH GI CC HN THC HNH NH GI H

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NI DUNG CCH NH GI HNG THC PHM FLAVORS KIM T THP HNG NOTES HNG LIU

CCH NH GI HNG M PHM FRAGRANCES / PERFUME KIM T THP HNG M T HNG LIU NOTES HNG LIU

THC TP CCH NH GI HNG LIU C TH

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CCH NH GI HNG THC PHFLAVORS

Kim t thp hng l mt dng n gdng miu t mt hng

+ 4 hoursFragrancesubstantivity

Until 4 hoursBody of thefragrance

O to 10 minutes

Firstimpression

heart notes

head notes

Bottom notes

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NOTES HNG LIU V cch nh gi hng thc phm thtng i n gin ch bao gm 3 ntchnh sau y

Nt tri cy c th nhn bit d dngnh to, o, mn, du, tri xanh, trichua,..

Nt Nu Brown notes nh l cc ntvani, caf, bnh ngt, chocolate, sa,u.

Nt tng hp l nhng nt khng c trongt nhin v c con ngi to ra bngcc qu trnh tng hp ha hc nh l nttng lc, cola.

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CCH NH GI HNG M PHFRAGRANCES / PERFUME

Kim t thp hng l mt dng n gdng miu t mt hng

+ 4 hoursFragrancesubstantivity

Until 4 hoursBody of thefragrance

O to 10 minutes

Firstimpression

heart notes

head notes

bottom notes

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FRESH PERFUME

Head

notes

Heartnotes

Drydown

ORIENTAL PERFUME

Headnotes

Heartnotes

Drydown

Ty theo dng hng liu v s cnhng dng thp hng khc nhau

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M T HNG LIU Nh chng ta thy, hng m phm tng i tru tng v cloi cm nhn khc nhau i vi tng ngi. Bn cnh , c

hiu r hn v th trng cng nh l nhn mnh hn v chca sn phm m i vi hng liu m phm ngi ta thnmt phn gi l M T HNG DESCRIPTION.

Vn tip theo t ra l chng ta phi m t nh th no. ng trn phng din chuyn nghip, mt ngi lm vic v hkhng ch n thun nhn xt hng tt hay khng tt, m cn pphn bit ra mt cch chi tit nhng thnh phn cng nh l nhhng c s dng trong hp hng mt cch chnh xc vn.

Phi nh gi v m t mt cch chnh xc nhng h v accortrong hng liu. V d: Oriental, Floral, Citrus.

a thm chi tit vo trong bng m t cng nhiu cng tt ni bt ln tnh cht v mi v ca hng liu. Floral: Rose,Tuberose, Jasmine,

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M T HNG LIU

FAM. 1 ADJ. 1 ADJ. 2 ADJ. 3 ADJ. 4

5 descriptors: one family and 4 adjectives,from the generic to the more detailed of the various elements

FLORAL Fruity Jasmine Apple Musky

1st step 2nd step

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FRAGRANCES TRAINING

NH GI NOTES HNG THEO KHGIC OLFACTORY NOTES

THC TP NH GI MI HNG THP THEO TNG LOI NOTES HNG

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OLFACTORY NOTES

H HNG C BN

citrusy green aldehydic fruity marine

aromatic floral spicy woody leathery

animalic musky powdery amberytobacco

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citrusTNG HP

CITRALDIHYDROMYRCENOL - 4GAMMA TERPINENOLCORPS M226

ALDEHYDE C8 OCTANAL ALDEHYDE C9 NONANAL ALDEHYDE C10 DECANAL

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CK OneCalvinKlein

Eau SauvageC. Dior

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greenGREEN family cho mt cm gic vmi trng, v nhng g xanh nh cct.

Note Green thng c kt hp nofloral v chypre to nn s c trring

Nhng sn phm nh du gi, sa tm v cc sn phm chm scca thng c notes green to nn s tui mt cho sn phm

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NATURALS

GALBANUMVIOLET LEAVES - 5PARSLEYBIRCH LEAVESBLACKCURRANT BUDS Abs.NARCISSUS Abs.

green

SYNTHETICS

CIS 3 HEXENOL

CIS-3-HEXENYL ACETATETRIPLAL STYRALLYL ACETATE - 6METHYL OCTINE CARBONATE - 7UNDECAVERTOL

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ANAIS ANAISCacharel

HUGOHugo Boss

TOMMY GIRLT. Hilfiger

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aldehydicy l nhng notes hng tng hpc trng

- Aldehyde C12 MNA

(Methylnonylacetaldehyde)- C 12 Lauric ( n Dodecanal)- C11 Lenic ( 10 Undenelal)- C10 Decanal

Notes ALDEHYDIC xut hin trong cng nghip hng t u th k 2 Hn hp FLORAL ALDEHYDIC vn l mt trong nhng hn hp ph bin trong hng liu H aldehydic thng to cm gic sch s nh trong x phng cc, kem

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ALDEHYDIC FRUITYALDEHYDE C8-OCTANALALDEHYDE C9-NONANAL

ALDEHYDE C10-DECANAL - 8

ALDEHYDIC FLORALALDEHYDE C11 LENICALDEHYDE C11 LICALDEHYDE C12 LAURIC

ALDEHYDIC WOODYALDEHYDE C12 MNA - 9

aldehydic

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CHANEL N5Chanel

DoveShower Cream

Unilever

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fruity

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APPLE

RASPBERRYPEACHMELONCASSISCOCONUTPEARPINEAPPLESTRAWBERRYBANANA

MANGOPAPAYA

fruity

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Gama undecalactone - 10PEACH

Gama nonalactoneCOCONUT

Manzanate - 11Cis-hexenyl isobutyrate

APPLE

Hexyl acetate - 12PEAR

MelonalCis-6-nonenolMELON

FrambinonRASPBERRY

Ocimene MANGO

Ethyl butyratePAPAYA

Allyl Caproate PINEAPPLE

Isoamyl acetateBANANA

fruityT NHINDavana oilWine lees oilBucchu oilBlackcurrant bud oilRoman chamomile oilGerman chamomile oilCarrot oilTagetes oil

TNG HP

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RALPHRalph Lauren

MOON SPARKLE MENEscada

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marineGi ln s gi nh v thcnc, bin, khng kh

To nn note ti mt,trong mt v l noteshng tng hp

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FUCUS ALGENONE

CALONE

CANTHOXAL

ADOXAL

HELIONAL - 13

SCENTENAL

FLORHYDRAL

FLORALOZONE - 14

marine

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ACQUA DI GIOGiorgio Armani

LEAU DISSEY Issey Miyake

ESCAPECalvin Klein

http://www.e-cesko.cz/images/downloads/Ocean-8c5n.jpg

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aromaticAROMATIC notes thng l nhng notecho cm gic tho v dc liu

C th chia ra lm 5 loi chnh. C th gSub-families: Aromatic, Lavender, Camphor,Bc h v Hi qu

Note Aromatic khng phi l note chnh trong hng nc hoa m thl hn hp chnh trong accord fougere hay chypre

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LAVENDERROSEMARYLAVANDINMINTS

THYMEBASIL - 15ANISE - 16TARRAGONARTEMISIA - 17EUCALIPTUSCAMPHOR - 18

aromatic

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POLO BLACKRalph Lauren

COVETSarah Jessica Parker

OLFACTORY NOTES

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floralH hng floral l h hngc s dng rng ri nht vc s dng trong 90

hng liu hin nay

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JASMINEBenzyl AcetateCis-jasmoneHedioneIndolMethyl Dihydro Jasmonate - 23Jasmine Abs.

ROSEPhenylethyl alcohol - 22GeraniolCitronellolRose Abs.

VIOLETMethyliononesIonone alphaIonone betaMethylonantheme - 25Violet leaves Abs.

ORANGE BLOSSOMMethyle AnthranilateOrange Blossom Abs - 21

LILY OF THE VALLEYLyral - 24LilialHydroxycitronellal

TUBEROSEYLANG YLANGMethyl salicylateTuberose Abs. - 19Ylang ylang - 20

floral

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PARISYSL

JADORE C. Dior

PURE POISONC. Dior

i

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

65/159

spicySPICY c s dng kh rng trong nu n truyn thng

Phn ln nguyn liu h SPICY c thu t cc ngu

liu t nhin nh l nhc u khu, inh hng, quhi.

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

66/159

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

67/159

OPIUMYSL

POLO EXPLORERRalph Lauren

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

68/159

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

69/159

CEDARWOODSANDALWOODBACDANOL

EBANOL

VETIVERVETIVERIL ACETATETREE MOSSPATCHOULIPINE - 29ISOBORNYL ACETATE

INCENSEIS O E SUPER 30VERTOFIX COEURCASHMERAN

TIMBEROL

CEDRAMBER - 31KARANAL 32

woody

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

70/159

GUCCI POUR HOMMEGucci

FEMINITE DU BOISShiseido

l h

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

71/159

Leathery note l h hng mang tng qu phi, nh nhv rt c bn trong nhm hng kh

leathery

l h

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

72/159

STYRAX - 33

BIRCH

CISTUS

LABDANUM - 34

CASTOREUM

CADE

ISOBUTYLQUINOLEINE

leathery

i li

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

73/159

animalicL nhng notes c chit xut nhng cht bi tit ca nvt v c c trong mt ong vmt vi loi hoa trng nng m

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

74/159

CIVET

CASTOREUM - 35

GREY AMBER

COSTUS

AMBRAROME

INDOL 36

BEESWAX

animalic

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

75/159

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

76/159

musky

k

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

77/159

AMBRETTE SEEDS

MUSK KETONE - 37GALAXOLIDE

MUSK T-ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE

TONALIDE

AMBRETTOLIDE - 38

AMBROXAN - 39

MUSCENONEEXALTOLIDE

musky

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

78/159

LE MALEJPG

WHITE MUSKThe Body Shop

b

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

79/159

COUMARIN

TONKA Abs - 40

HELIOTROPINE - 41

EVERLASTING Oil, Abs

HAY Oil, Abs

LIATRIX Abs

tobacco

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

80/159

TABACMaurer & Wirtz

powdery

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

81/159

powderyNote Powdery l mt trongnhng notes kh ph bintrong cc dng m phmdnh cho n. Mang li cmgic nh nhng th gin

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

82/159

NITRO MUSKS

VANILLIN

ETHYL VANILLIN

BENZOIN - 42

MALTOL - 43COUMARIN

HELIOTROPINE

powdery

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

83/159

FUEL FOR LIFEDiesel HYPNOSELancme

b

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

84/159

amberyL h hng mang li noteshng m, nh nhng, quphi

H hng ny bao gmnhng notes hng chitxut t nha cy

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

85/159

PERU BALSAM - 44

TOLU BALSAM

VANILLA

AMBROXAN

CISTUS 45

ambery

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

86/159

SENSIGiorgio Armani

BOSS SOULH. Boss

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

87/159

OLFACTORY ACCORDS

Accord = l s kt hp hi ha bi nhiu longuyn liu khc nhau

The Fougere, Chypre, Oriental and Cologne

Chypreougere Oriental Cologne

f

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

88/159

fougere

f

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

89/159

c to ra t nm 1868 v c dng ch yu cho ph n. Nhng hin nay, Fougere c s dng kh r ng ritrong cc s n phm cho nam .

Fougere accord l s k t hp da trn ph n ng c a ccloi nguyn liu sau:

Geranium Phong L Bergamot Cam TyLavender Oi HngTree Moss RuCoumarin

fougere

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

90/159

h

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

91/159

chypre

h

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

92/159

A chypre l s kt hp ca cc RM:Bergamot Cam Ty

Patchouli Hoc Hng Musk X Hng Labdanum

c s dng rng ri trong hng dnh cho ph n

chypre

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

93/159

COCO MADEMOISELLEChanel

BALDESSARINI

H. Boss

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

94/159

orientalOriental accord l s tng hp da trn phn ng

ca note Citrus mt vi notes m, kh ca Vanilla vamber

Oriental c s dng kh rng ri trong cc cng

thc hng hin i mang lai s ngt ngo v i kOriental cn l s pha trn ca h Floral, Woods vFruity

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

95/159

oriental

SHALIMAR

Guerlain

ALLURE

Chanel

l

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

96/159

cologneCologne accord l fragrance c bn nht v l s k t hp c anhng mi thm ti mt:

CitrusesOrange Blossom Hoa CamMusks X Hng

l

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

97/159

cologne

SANEX COLOGNEFRESH SPIRITSara Lee => Unilever

COLOGNE 4711Muelhens CK ONECalvin Klein

THE NEW ACCORDS

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

98/159

Mar ine Accord

Initiated by New West for Her / Aramis (1990)

Tea Accord

Initiated by LEau Parfume / Bulgari (1992)

Swee t Ed ib le Accord

Initiated by Angel / Thierry Mugler(1992)

THE NEW ACCORDS

Phn 3

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

99/159

Phn 3 CC VN V K THUT NH

HNG TRONG THC T SN XU

NG DNG

NHNG VN K THU

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

100/159

NHNG VN K THU

VAI TR CA HNG LIU YU CU CA HNG LIU TNH N NH CA HNG LIU TNH CHT L HOA CA HNG L

VAI TR CA HNG LI

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

101/159

VAI TR CA HNG LI i vi sn phm thc phm hng liu to nnmi thm ring cho sn phm. i vi sn phm m phm hng liu thng

c dng che lp nhng mi khng cn thit ca sn phm thnh phm Mi ca sn phm n t hai ngun chnh: V mi ca hng liu phi nht thit che ph

nhng mi ny v to nn cm gic d chu chongi s dng.

YU CU CA HNG LI

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

102/159

I VI NH SN XUT Yu cu ca hng liu s tng i n gin: Direction ca hng liu hay cn gi l tng mi ca hng

liu: phi p ng yu cu ca ngi tiu dng, ca sn phm vth trng. Thng thng direction c xc nh theo nhiu

cch thc ng dng ca hng liu: l ng dng ca hng liu trong sn phm no nh nc c gas, ko cng, kemdng da hay sa tm v.v

Hm lng s dng: l lng hng s dng trong sn phm thnh phm v ph thuc ng dng ca hng liu.

Gi hng liu: l gi thnh ca hng liu m nh sn xut c th chp nhn cho sn phm ca mnh.

YU CU CA HNG LI

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

103/159

I VI NH CUNG CP Ngoi nhng yu t nu trn, nh cung cp hng liu cn phi xc nh thm 2 yu t l ngy ti hn v sn phm sosnh.

Ngy ti hn l ngy m nh cung cp hng liu phi

p ng mu hng liu yu cu. Sn phm so snh Benchmark: l sn phm sosnh v kh nng to mi cng nh l nhng yu t k thut khc.

Direction ca sn phm so snh: trong trng hp nh sn xut yu cu phi c hng tng t.

Kh nng to mi v lu hng ca sn phm:vi yu cu ny, hng liu mi phi c cho vonn sn phm ca nh sn xut v cng nh gichung vi sn phm so snh.

TNH N NH CA HNG

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

104/159

TNH N NH CA HNG

Tnh n nh ca hng liu l kh nng n nh ca hng liu trong sn phm sau cng. Mt hng liu c tnh n nh cao l hng liu phi khng c s thay i v mi ca sn phm cng nh khng lm thay i mu sc ca sn phm trong sut thi gian s dng ca sn phm

Vy mt hng liu khng n nh trong sn phm s nh th no? Thay i c tnh ca hng trong sn phm v thay i

tng mi ca sn phm trong qu trnh lu tr.

Lm i mu hoc mt mu sn phm. Gy tch lp, kt ta hoc l khng tan trong sn phm. Lm thay i nht ca sn phm. nh hng ln bao b ca sn phm.

nh hng ln hot tnh ca sn phm.

TNH N NH CA HNG CC YU T NH HNG

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

105/159

CC YU T NH HNG Bn thn ca hng liu / Hn hp cc nguyn liu: thng thng mi

mt hng liu to ra ch thch hp cho mt ng dng sn phm nht nh v trong mt mi trng sn phm nht nh.

Hm lng s dng ca hng liu: hm lng s dng c th tythuc vo nh sn xut v gi thnh ca sn phm.

Qu trnh oxi ha: hng liu l mt hn hp nhiu nguyn liu khc nhaunn kh nng oxi ha l kh cao.

nh sng: hu ht nguyn liu ca hng liu l cc hp cht hu c nn bn vi nh sng l kh yu v thng khng nn tip xc trc tip vi nh sng.

Nhit lu tr hng liu: nhit lu tr hng liu thng thng l25 oC m bo cc nguyn liu khng phn ng vi nhau v to ra

nhng cc hp cht khc lm thay i n tng mi nguyn bn ca hng liu. pH: nhng nguyn liu khc nhau ch c th bn trong mt pH khc

nhau nn hng liu ch thch hp cho mt loi sn phm nht nh vi pHnht nh.

Hm lng kim loi nng c trong sn phm S tc ng t mi trng bn ngoi

TNH N NH CA HNG YU CU V TNH N NH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

106/159

YU CU V TNH N NH Yu cu v tnh n nh ca hng liu

Mi hng liu phi c thng qua 2 th nghim sau thc gi l n nh: Hng liu phi c cho vo trong nn ca sn phm

v phi thng qua c tt c cc th nghim v vt l

Cc nguyn liu ca hng liu phi c th nghim trong nn m bo v tnh n nh ring l trong nn sn phm

Qu trnh th nghim nh sau: 2 mu khng cha hng liu c t hai nhit khc

nhau l 5 oC v 45 oC 2 mu c cha hng liu hay mu c cha cc nguyn liu

ca hng cng c t hai nhit trn trong 5 tun Ngoi ra, mu sn phm cn phi c thng qua cc ch tiu

l hc nh th nghim mu v ha tan ca hng liu.

TNH N NH CA HNG YU CU V TNH N NH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

107/159

YU CU V TNH N NH Yu cu tnh n nh ca hng liu trong nn sn phm Thng thng th tnh n nh sn phm phi c kim tra

kh nghim ngt theo ng yu cu v trong ht thi hn ca sn phm. Tuy nhin, do thi hn s dng ca sn phm thng l 3 nm k t ngy sn xut. Cho nn vic

kim tra cng phi c lu tr vi thi gian tng ng. Vvy, phng php lo ha nhanh v phng php test UVca sn phm l phng php nhanh nht kim tra tnhn nh ca sn phm.

Mt s th nghim c bit trong nn sn phm: Bn vi nh sng Kim tra bn v lu hng ca sn phm Th nghim trong cc phng nh v.v

TNH N NH CA HNG YU CU V TNH N NH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

108/159

YU CU V TNH N NH Phng php lo ha nhanh:

L phng php dng nhit y nhanh qu trnh loha ca sn phm. Vi phng php ny, nh sn xut s xc nh c hn s dng ti u ca sn phm.C mi 10 oC tng ln th tc phn ng s tng ln gp i

12 thng 25oC= 12 tun 45oC = 6 tun 55oC

Phng php test UV: 6 gi vi n UV 1000W = 3 thng di nh nng

TNH CHT L HATHI HN S DNG

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

109/159

THI HN S DNG Thi hn s dng ca hng liu ty thuc vo cc dng nguyn liu khc nhau. Nhng nhn chung thi hn s

dng ph bin l 12 thng k t ngy sn xut. Nhng loi nguyn liu khc nhau th c nhng thi hn

s dng khc nhau. iu ny gy khng t kh khn chonh cung cp khi sn xut hng liu. V d: Citrus thng khng c bn vng nn phi c

d tr trong kho lnh, mt m bo tnh n nh Nguyn liu tng hp thng c thi hn s dng lu

hn so vi cc nguyn liu t nhin. Tuy nhin, c mt vi loi nguyn liu khi lu tr cng

lu th to nn nhng c tnh cng tt. Vd: Patchoulie,Vanillin,

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

110/159

NG DNG

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

111/159

NG DNG

1. FLAVORS HNG THC PHM

2. FRAGRANCES HNG M PHMCNG NGHIP

FLAVORS HNG THC PH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

112/159

FRAGRANCESHNG M PHMCNG NGHIP

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

113/159

HNG M PHM CNG NGHIP

AIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

114/159

AIR CARE

AIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

115/159

AIR CARE

AIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

116/159

AIR CARE

AIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

117/159

AIR CARE

AIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

118/159

AIR CARE

AIR CARE AEROSOL BNH XT C GA Bnh xt c ga xut hin t kh sm sau th chin th hai v s dngcho ti ngy hm nay.

Cc dng ga thng s dng nh l Freon v Gas nh hin nay. Bnh xt phng thng ch c bm vi ti a 75 th tch bnh

Yu cu ca hng:Mnh top note Hng hoa c Hng c kh nng cover c mi kh chu trong khng

Hm lng s dng thng thng l 2

BODY WASH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

119/159

BODY WASH

BODY WASH

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

120/159

BODY WASH

Body wash l dng sn phm thuc nh ging nh FaciProducts v Skin Care

Hm lng hng vo khong 0.3 . Tuy nhin, sn ph Vit Nam, hm lng hng thng vo khong 0.8 1.8

Tongue hng ch yu s dng l Floral, Aldehydic,Powdery, Green nh l lily of the valley, rose, honey,lilac

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

121/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

122/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

123/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

124/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

125/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

126/159

FINE FRAGRANCES

Thng c chia thnh 4 loi

Fragrance 15 25Eaux de parfum 12 15Eaux de toilette Men 6 8

Women 8 12Euax de cologne 1.8 2

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

127/159

FINE FRAGRANCESChun b: Hng liu

Alcohol (Ethyl alcohol chng ct t c ci nghoc mt nho)

Nc Hot cht to mu Hot cht chng nh sng Hot cht chng oxi ha

Hn hp c khuy trn trong bn thp khng r trontun v khuy li c 15 mi ngy

Sau hn hp c lm lnh 0oC loi b tt c

nhng cht khng tan

FINE FRAGRANCES

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

128/159

Yu cu c bn ca hng nc hoa p ng th hiu tiu dng ca phn khc th trn

nhm n p ng lu hng cn thit theo ng yu cc ra

V d: 6 8h cho dng nc hoa cao cp 4h cho dng bnh thng 1h cho dng thp cp

FINE FRAGRANCES

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

129/159

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

130/159

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

HAIR CARE - SHAMPOO

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

131/159

Hng du gi thng thng c tongueFloral v Fruity cho n. Tongue Fougerev Woody dnh cho nam

Hng du gi thng khng c g cbit. Tuy nhin, i vi sn phm du gi

tr gu, thng hng liu phi c khnng chu c cc hot cht tr gu nhZPTO,

HAIR CARE SHAMPOO

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

132/159

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

133/159

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

134/159

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

135/159

HAIR CAREAIR CARE

Hng liu i vi cc sn phm ny thng dng l tongue FruityFloral.Hng s dng trong gel thng phi ha tan v khng lm c n

phm

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

136/159

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

137/159

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

138/159

HOUSEHOLD

Hng dng trong bt git thng thng l phi sch to cm

mt trong qu trnh s dng. Tongue hng ch yu l Aldehydic,Floral, Green, Hng trong bt git thng phi c test n nh m bo lng sn phm. Hm lng s dng: 0.3 0.5

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

139/159

HOUSEHOLD

Hm lng s dng: 0.5 0.8

Hm lng s dng: 0.3 0.5

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

140/159

HOUSEHOLD

HOUSEHOLDFABRIC SOFTENER

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

141/159

FABRIC SOFTENER

Hng liu dng trong nc x vi hin nay l tongue hng FlFruity. Vd: Comfort vi tongue hng to, Hng c s dng trong sn phm x vi th cn phi c tt. t nht phi lu mi trn vi kh sau khi x trong 3 ngy.

Hin nay, mt s nh sn xut c s dng thm ht lu hng lmt dng hng encapsulated. Dng b xung hng sau khi vkh, v khi i qun o s lm tot ln mi thm. Hm lng s dng l 1 1,5 cho san phm thng v 2 2.5cho sn phm m c

HOUSEHOLD

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

142/159

HOUSEHOLD

HOUSEHOLDTOILET CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

143/159

TOILET CAREHng liu s dng trong toilet care, d l nn sn phm acbase hay l dng block, thng rt hn ch trong direction. Vmi trng sn phm ny thng c pH cc cao v cc tcho nn hng liu v nguyn liu tao hng phi c btrong sn phm. Sn phm sau khi test hng n nh, cn phi test thmbao b v hnh thi sn phm trong thi gian di chc snphm n nh v tt c cc mt.

Direction ch yu ca hng liu thng thng l hng hhng pine thng. Hng ch yu c th cover c nn sphm acid hoc base bc ln trong qu trnh dn ra toilet Hm lng hng s dng thng thng t 0.15 0.3

INDUSTRIAL APPS

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

144/159

INDUSTRIAL APPS

INDUSTRIAL APPS

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

145/159

Sn phm cng nghip thng thng mi nn sn phm kh nngv qu trnh phi trn cng nh sn xut c nhit kh cao. Chnvy m cn phi c hng chu c mi trng khc nghit nhcng cn phi cover c nn sn phm Vi sn phm nht, hng thng thng l hng tri cy tng h Mixfruit. Hm lng s dng kh thp, ch vo khon 0.05 0.1 . Tuynhin, vi mt s sn phm c th mi sn phm s kh mnh nhm lng s cao hn vo khong 0.5 . V d: nht dng cho xe 2do co s dng du la, nn hm lng s dng s cao hn nhiu

Vi sn phm nha v cao su, hng liu s dng thng khng mi hay. Ch cn mt hng c mnh cao v bn vi nhit Chnh v vy, nhng hng liu dng ny thng l nhng hn hcc nguyn liu c mnh v bn nhit cao nh woody,ambery,

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

146/159

SKIN CARE

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

147/159

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

148/159

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

149/159

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

150/159

Hng s dng thng phi khng gy kch ng da do

dng trc tip ln vng da nhy cm nh mt v nimmc Hm lng hng vo khong 0.1

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

151/159

Hng dng trong nhng sn phm ny thng phi c mi d ch

v sang trng. Mc tiu ch to mi thm thoang thong khi s dv cn phi che mi base tht tt. Vi sn phm suncreen, thng thng s dng TiO2, ZnO hay cphn ng vi nguyn liu ca hng nn phi test cn thn

Hm lng hng ty thuc vo sn phm

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

152/159

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

153/159

SKIN CAREBABY & FEMILE CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

154/159

BABY & FEMILE CARE

Hng liu dng trong nhng sn phm ny cphi c kch ng thp nht. Hng liu s

dng thng thng l dng tan trong nc. Cnphi th nghim tht k v kch ng ca sphm. Hm lng hng s dng tng i thp t 0 0.3

SKIN CARE

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

155/159

SOAP

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

156/159

SOAP

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

157/159

X bng c nhiu dng khc nhau v nhiu loi nn khnhau, nn chnh v vy m cn phi chn hng sao chothch hp vi tng loi nn soap khc nhau

Hng liu cho vo c th lm thay i mu ca sn phNn cn phi kim tra chuyn mu ca sn phm xphng nu nh x phng l dng mu trng. Hm lng s dng vo khong 1 2 ty vo dng sn

phm

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

158/159

THO LUN T DO

8/10/2019 Phn 1 + Phn 2 + Phn 3

159/159

CM N