and disease control

Many insects, diseases and other pests attack vegetables, and the home garden is not the easiest place to keep them under control. Pests live on a wide range of hosts, and they can hide in cracks and crevices in fences and buildings close to the garden. Pests can travel, too, and neighboring gardens can be a source of trouble.

However, insects and disease organisms may not be the only cause of poor growth. Always ensure that vegetables have adequate plant food and water. Often it is difficult to distinguish physiological upsets from diseases or insect troubles.

Prevention is the keynote of good pest control ; clean gardening practices along with regular spray programs will keep most pests in hand.

Crop rotation Crop rotation prevents the building up of diseases and pests which are specific to a vegetable or group of vegetables. This has already been discussed more fully on page 8.

Garden sanitation Clean cultivation and the regular disposal of old plants and rubbish in the garden will upset the life cycle of many pests. While a garden may have very little grow- ing in it during the winter months, many insects can be completing their life cycles in the egg stage, as a chrysalis, or in some cases overwintering as a mature adult.

Overwintering pests are usually found in sheltered spots in the garden, away from cold and wet

and out of sight of birds and other predators. Favorite hiding places are dark corners under boards, in old cans and bottles, and especially on plant refuse. Weeds shelter pests throughout the year, as well as providing living quarters for those insects which remain active through the winter. Keep weeds under reasonable control and dis- pose of what remains of old crops when harvesting is over. Burn any diseased plant material.

Pre~dators and birds Predators, insects which eat other insects, and birds, are valuable allies in the garden. The preying mantis and the ladybird are two well-known garden friends. Spar- rows and other small birds are often considered a nuisance

Pests and diseases can overwinter 012 plant refuse. Clean u p weeds and old crops and burn any diseased plant material.

especially when they scratch out a newly sown bed, but they do far more good than harm by keeping down insect numbers.

Look for pests Frequently examine vegetables and other plants in the garden, includ- ing weeds, for any sign of trouble. Keep a close watch on the growing points and flowerbuds and check the undersides of leaves. Some insects feed only at night, and these are best found by inspecting plants with an electric torch. As seedlings are emerging or if trans- plants have just been set out in the garden bed, keep a close watch on the ground around them and turn over any clods or flat objects on the ground.

Many larger insects and slugs and snails can be effectively con- trolled by simply picking them off the plants. Pests and diseases appear and disappear with changes in the weather. As temperatures warm up in the spring, check that sufficient pesticides are on hand and apply a preventive insecticide spray. Diseases, such as mildew, appear when conditions are humid and there is little wind. Preventive copper or zineb sprays will keep many leaf diseases in check.

Pest and disease control mea- sures are summarised in the tables on pages 43 to 47. Pests and diseases affecting vegetables in the home garden are further discussed on pages 48 to 58.

Pest

Vegetable pest and disease control guide Here is a guide to the main pests and diseases which affect vegetables in the home garden. The pests and diseases marked with an asterisk (*) are described in more detail in this section along with the control of general garden pests such as slugs, snails and earwigs.

Vegetable Pest Symptoms Treatment

Artichoke, Globe Aphids* Plant unthrifty, insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or Leafhoppers * maldison or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone.

Leaf miner White tunnels in the artichoke leaves. Spray as necessary with maldison.

Web moth Plant attacked by grubs which are Spray as required with maldison or found beneath a protective web. carbaryl.

Spotted wilt* Plant unthrifty, outer bracts of heads Spray as necessary with dimethoate or blackened and unattractive. maldison to control thrips. Use only

plant pieces from healthy plants for propagation.

Root rots Plant unthrifty and dying. Roots No chemical control. Plant in well drained rotten. areas. Use only healthy plant pieces for

propagation.

Beans, French and Aphids* Plant unthrifty or insects present. Spray when necessary with maldison or Climbing White fly* dimethoate or dust with pyrethrum or

Leafho~uers* rotenone.

Caterpillars* Leaves or pods eaten. Caterpillars Spray with maldison or carbaryl as soon present. as the pests appear.

--

Two-spotted mite* Leaves mottled and unthrifty. The Spray with dicofol or dimethoate or (Red spider) under side of leaves attacked. maldison.

Halo blight* Angular brown spots appear on the Spray with copper oxychloride, Common blight* foliage. Halo-like greasy spots hydroxide, or Bordeaux mixture. Syringae* appear on the pod. at the first sign of disease. Use clea

cupric Spray

n seed.

Sclerotinia* Plants attacked by a copious white Spray with benomyl as a preventative at fungus. Foliage and green bean pod early budding stage and repeat weekly are both subject to attack. two or three times or apply when humid

weather makes attack likely.

Summer death* Virus disease transmitted by Use resistant varieties such as Apollo, leafhoppers causing heavy losses of Canyon or Cascade. Spray with maldison susceptible varieties. or dimethoate or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone at the first sign of leafhoppers.

Syb clover stunt Virus disease transmitted by aphids. Spray as for summer death above. vuus Plant unthrifty, leaves yellow and the

growing point is dwarfed and the plant useless.

Broad Beans Aphids* Plant unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dime Leafhoppers* maldison or dust with rotenc

pyrethrum.

Fungus disease causing brown spots Spray with copper oxychloride, cuplir

on the plant. hydroxide or Bordeaux mutture.

Beetroot see Silver Beet

Broccoli Aphids* Leaves rolled. Plants unthrifty. Grey Spray as necessary with dimethoate, aphids present. maldison or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone.

Caterpillars* Leaves eaten. Pest infesting leaves. Spray as necessary with carbaryl, maldison or Bacillus thuringenisis.

Downy mildew* Leaves infested with white downy Spray at the first sign of disease with fungus. A problem in seed beds and cupric hydroxide or copper oxychloride or poorly ventilated areas. Bordeaux.

Veget able Pest Symptoms Treatment

Broccoli Ringspot Fungus disease which attacks foliage Heat treat seed. If the disease appears causing circular spots 8 to 10 mm in spray with cupric hydroxide, copper diameter. Disease can be seed borne. oxychloride or Bordeaux.

Bacterial leaf spot Small water soaked areas appear on Heat treat seed and spray as for ring- leaves which gradually turn black. spot. Can be seed borne.

Black rot* Bacterial disease seed or soil borne. Heat treat and spray as for ringspot. Leaves are attacked by the disease, area5 on the leaf die to form wedge- shaoed areas. AAected area held up to the light shows black veining.

Black leg* Soil inhabiting fungus also may be Heat treat seed as for ringspot. No carried on seed coat. Affected plants chemical control for this disease. collapse. The stem blackens at soil level and roots die.

Club root* Soil borne fungus which causes gross Improve drainage and lime just prin* swelling and death of roots below planting. D o not grow crucifers soil suface. Plants wilt on hot days. than once in three years in the sam

L"L ," more

e bed.

Brussels Sprouts see Broccoli

Cabbage see Broccoli

Capsicums Inrect pests- see tornatoes Powdery mildew* Plant unthrifty. Powdery fungus Spray as necessary with benomyl, dicofol

visible on the underside of leaves. or sulphur.

Spotted wilt* See tomatoes

Carrot Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate, Leaf hoppers * maldison or dust with pyrethrum or White fly* rotenone.

Carrot o r Leaves of plant eaten by a small grey Spray with maldison every week while vegetable weevil* weevil with a long probiscus. the adult weevil is present. The larva

Nocturnal in habit, hides under burrows into the ground and attacks the clods during the day. Roots eaten carrot root and cannot be controlled by weevil larvae. at this stage.

Carrot motley Carrots dwarfed and unthrifty with Plant tolerant varieties such as Topweight, dwarf virus yellowing and reddening of foliage. Osborrre Park or Western Red in late

Virus disease transmitted by aphids. autumn, winter and early spring plantings. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or maldison to control a ~ h i d s .

Leaf Blights Fungal spots on carrot foliage. Spray as necessary with copper oxychloride, copper hydroxide, Bordeaux, mancozeb or zineb. Alternation of maneb mancozeb o r zineb fungicides with a copper compound is recommended.

Cauliflower see Broccoli

Celery and Celeriac Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or Leafhoppers* maldison or dust with pyrethrum or White flv* rotenone.

Caterpillars* Leaves eaten by pests. Spray as necessary with carbaryl or maldison.

Septoria leaf spot Fungal spots on celery foliage. Spray at first sign of disease with copper oxychloride, cupric hydroxide, Bordeaux, mancozeb, maneb or zineb.

Cucumber see Pumpkin

Egg plant Two-spotted mite* Leaves taken on an unthrifty mottled Spray as necessary with dicofol or (Red spider) appearance. Mite visible on the dimethoate or maldison.

underside of the leaf.

Other insect pests- see Tomato

44

Vegetable Pest Symptoms Treatment

Endive and see Lettuce Chicory

Fennel Aphids Plants unthrifty or insects present Spray as necessary with dimetl maldison, or dust with pyrethru rotenone.

hoate, m or

Garlic see Onion

Kohl Rabi see Broccoli

Lettuce Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with maldison or Leafhoppers* dimethoate or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone.

Light brown apple Grub in the heart of plant protected Spray as necessary with carbaryl, or Moth by a web. maldison

Downy mildew* A white downy fungus infesting the Spray as necessary with copper leaves of plants. oxychloride or copper hydroxide or

zineb or maneb or mancozeb. Alternate one of the copper group sprays with one of the other group.

Minor leaf spots Spots appearing especially on old Spray with copper oxychloride, cupric, (Septoria, Anthracnose, leaves. Usually encountered in the hydroxide or Bordeaux mixture. or Cercospora) cooler seasons of the year.

Sclerotinia* Copious white or grey fungus attacks Spray with benomyl from thinning stage. Botrytis* plant usually at ground level causing

death of the plant.

Lettuce mosaic virus Plants unthrifty with characteristic Plant clean seed. Spray with maldison o r mosaic pattern on the leaves. Disease dimethoate to control aphid population. may be seed borne or transmitted by avhids.

Lettuce necrotic Plant yellows and if infected early Eliminate sow thistle which is host t o yellows does not heart. Virus spread by disease and aphid vector alike. Control

aphids from sow thistle. aphids by spraying as necessary with dimethoate or maldison.

Marrows see Pumpkin

Melons see Pumpkin

Onions Thrips* Leaves have silvery patches. Plants Spray or dust with maldison or unthrifty. dimethoate.

Downy mildew* Downy white to purple growth on Spray with Bordeaux, copper oxychloride, leaves. cupric hydroxide, maneb, mancozeb or

zineb. Control is difficult. Do not grow onions in a sheltered position.

White rot* White cotton-like growth at base of No chemical control. Burn diseased plant, leaves yellow and die back. plants and do not replant area to onions Black fungal bodies form in infected or related crops. tissue.

Neck rot* Neck of onion becomes soft. Leaves Do not harvest until leaves dry down. yellow. Mainly a problem in stored onions.

Parsnip Aphids* Plant unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or maldison, or dust with pyrethrum or rotenone.

Two-spotted mite* Plants unthrifty. Mite visible on Spray as necessary with dicofol. (Red spider) the underside of leaves. dimethoate, sulphur or maldison.

- --

Leaf spots Spots appearing on the foliage of Spray as necessary with copper plants. oxychloride, cupric hydroxide, maneb,

mancozeb or zineb.

Powdery mildew* Foliage unthrifty, white powdery Spray when necessary with sulphur, fungal growth on the underside of repeat if required. leaves.

,getable Pest Symptoms Treatment

Peas Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray when necessary with maldison or White fly* dimethoate or dust with pyrethrum or Leaf hoppers* rotenone.

Caterpillars Leaves or pods eaten. Caterpillars Spray with maldison or carbaryl as soon present. as the pests appear.

Red-legged earth mite Young plants mottled and unthrifty. Spray with dicofol, dimethoate or maldison.

Potato Tomato caterpillar* Adult moths present. Plants eaten by Spray as necessary with maldison or Potato caterpillar* caterpillars. carbaryl. Keep tubers well covered with

soil.

Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate White fly* maldison or dust with pyrethrum or Leafhoppers * rotenone. Thrips*

- -

Early blight* Plant develops fungal leaf spots s p r a y as necessary with copper Late blight* which spread rapidly in humid oxychloride, cupric hydroxide, maneb,

weather. or mancozeb or zineb.

Spotted wilt* Plant initially looks unthrifty with Spotted wilt is a virus disease spread by new growth a bluish color. Later thrips. Control thrips on tomatoes, bronze spots appear on the foliage. potatoes and ornamental plants in the

vicinity by weekly spray applications of maldison. Spraying will give limited control only.

Big Bud* Foliage turns purple, growing points Disease is spread by leafhoppers. Weekly enlarge. spray application of maldison or

dimethoate will give limited control only. -- -- -

Pumpkin and Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or Squash maldison or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone.

Pumpkin beetle Plant leaves eaten (usually found in Spray as necessary with maldison or Northern Victoria only). carbaryl or dimethoate.

Two-spotted mite* Plant unthrifty, leaves mottled, mites Spray as necessary with diwfol (Red spider) visible on the underside of the leaf. dimethoate, maldison or sulphur.

Powdery mildew* Plants unthrifty, white powdery Spray at first sign of disease with fungal growth on leaves. benomyl or sulphur. Use resistant

varieties such as Polaris cucumber and Suner Pickle gherkin.

Storage rots Fruits rotting in storage. Pick pumpkin, squash and marrows with about 100 rnm of stem attached, Avoid mechanical damage to fruit and protect from frost. Prolonged temperatures below 10°C will cause cold damage.

Radish see Broccoli -- - - - - - - -

Rhubarb Downy mildew* Fungus attacks underside of the leaf Spray asnecessarywithcopper oxychloride giving an unthrifty appearance. or copper hydroxide or Bordeauxmixture. Affected area dies and takes on the appearance of brown paper.

Crown rot Soil borne fungi which attacks the Drench the crown with a copper fungicide crown and eventually kills the plant. before planting and as required.

Silver Beet Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with maldison Leaf hoppers * dimethoate or dust with pyrethrum or

rotenone.

Web worm Plants eaten. Caterpillars shelter Spray as necessary with maldison or in leaves drawn together with web. catbaryl.

Leaf miner Visible as white serpentine lines Spray as necessary with maldison or within the leaf. dimethoate.

Downy mildew* Leaves stunted and attacked by grey Spray as necessary with copper fungus. oxychloride or copper hydroxide or

Bordeaux mixture.

Vegetable Pest Symptoms Treatment

Silver Beet Rust Old plantings attacked by a fungus Spray as for downy mildew. visible as small circular rust like spots.

Spinach Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate o r Leafhoppers* maldison or dust with pyrethrum o r Leaf miner rotenone.

Downy mildew* A white downy fungus infesting the Spray as necessary with copper plants. oxychloride, copper hydroxide, maneb,

mancozeb or zineb.

Sweet corn Aphids* Plants unthrifty, insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate or Leafhoppers * maldison.

Grubs* Heliothis grub attacks the tassel and Spray as necessary with malathion or especially the cob. carbaryl. Pay attention to spray placement

on the tassel and the silk where it enters the cob.

Rust Fungus of a brown appearance Spray as required with zineb. attacking the foliage.

Tomato Tomato caterpillar* Adults moths present. Plants eaten Spray as necessary with maldison or Potato caterpillar* by caterpillars. carbaryl.

-

Tomato mite* Lower leaves first affected and dry Spray as necessary with dicofol o r to a brown color. Main stem golden sulphur or dimethoate or maldison. in color. Insect visible only if viewed through a lens.

Aphids* Plants unthrifty or insects present. Spray as necessary with dimethoate, White fly* maldison or dust with pyrethrum or Thrips* rotenone. Leaf hoppers*

Target spot* Plant develops fungal leaf spots Spray as necessary with copper Septoria spot* which spread rapidly in humid oxychloride or cupric hydroxide or maneb

weather. or mancozeb or zineb.

Bacterial spot* Bacterial speck and spot attack the Spray as necessary with copper Bacterial speck* plant and fruit. Foliage has small oxychloride or cuprlc hydroxide or

dark areas at point of attack. Fruit standard Bordeaux mixture. NB copper develops characteristic raised black sprays will control the spread of the specks or spots which greatly detract disease only. Will not control seed or from their appearance. soil borne infections.

Bacterial canker* Foliage turns brown and dies, Do not use seed from infected plants and usually on one side of the plant. when in doubt treat seed with hot water. Dark brown sunken cankers develop Destroy all infected plants and do not on the stem and raised spots may replant tomatoes in the same bed. appear on the fruit while it is green.

Tobacco mosaic virus* Mottling and slight puckering of leaves. Badly affected plants are stunted and the fruit may develop brown blotches as it ripens.

Spotted wilt* Plant initially looks unthrifty with new growth a bluish color. Later bronze spots appear on the foliage. Fruit ripens to an abnormal yellow to pink color with spots up to 7 to 8 rnm containing several concentric circles.

Do not save seed from affected plants and destroy all diseased plants. Seed can be treated by soaking in a 10% solution of tri-sodium phosphate for 25 minutes to control virus on the seed surface. This solution can also be used to disinfect hands when pruning.

Spotted wilt is a virus dis&&. spread by thrips. Control thrips on tomatoes and ornamental plants in the vicinity by weekly spray applications of maldison. Spraying will give limited control only.

Big Bud* Flowers enlarged and malformed and Disease is spread by leaf hoppers. Weekly fruit produced woody and useless. spray application of maldison or

dimethoate will give limited control only. - - -

Fusarium wilt* Soil inhabiting fungi which attack Use tolerant varieties. Burnley Metro, Verticillium wilt* the plant impairing its capacity to Burnley Fortune, Burnley Surecrop

take up moisture and nutrients. tolerate Verticillium. Burnley Gem Plants wilt in the heat and are tolerates Fusarium. generally unthrifty.

Turnips see Broccoli

47

Insect pests Insects that are controlled with chemicals are considered in two groups-chewing insects and suck- ing insects.

Chewing pests Chewing pests are generally larger than sucking insects and they cause very obvious damage by chewing holes in leaves and fruit and through stems. This group in- cludes cutworms, cabbage cater- pillars, earwigs, pumpkin beetles, leafminers, root maggots, web- worms, weevils and wireworms.

Slugs and snails are chewing pests but they are not insects.

Sucking pests Sucking pests insert their mouth- parts into the plant and suck out the plant juice. Heavily infested plants will begin to wilt and will eventually die. Some sucking in- sects also carry virus diseases from plant to plant. Aphids and leaf- hoppers in particular are respon- sible for the spread of several virus diseases.

Besides aphids and leafhoppers sucking insects include vegetable ,...-. thrips, and harlequin bugs.

sucking pests which are not Dugs, Other insect! red-le:

Chew Browi This . .

of tap-rooted vegetables. The adults hide in the soil during the day. Control. Carbaryl or maldison sprays can be applied to seedlings, such as tomatoes, after they have been transplanted or as soon as they have emerged. Most damage is done in the spring and early summer. Control is generally directed at the weevil, not the grub.

Control is greatly assisted by eliminating nearby capeweed or marshmallow plants which can be a source of infestation.

related crops by chewing holes in the leaves. They are : Cabbage White Butterfly Cater- pillar. A green caterpillar about 30 mm long, velvety green with a yellow stripe down the back and

Vegetable weevil and larvae, a legless grub, enlarged about five times.

mark at the rear. The larvae are stout legless grubs with brown heads and greenish bodies. Both the adults and the larvae feed on the foliage of various vegetables. The larvae also attack the crowns

Cabbage white butterfly and caterpil- lar.

yellow spots on the sides. Cabbage Moth Caterpillar. This caterpillar is up to 12 mm long and bluish green. I t wriggles vig- orously when touched. Cabbage Looper Caterpillar. This caterpillar is 25 mm long, light green with a white stripe down each side ; it crawls by loop- ing its body. The adult is a night- flying moth.

5 include two-spotted mite, Control. Spray or dust with mal- gged earthmite, tomato mite Other dison, carbaryl or Bacillus thzir-

and nematodes. The larvae of the garden ingiensis. Maldison and carbaryl Sucking pests are controlled and the carrot weevil can be des- can be used up to three days from

with contact insecticides or sys- tructive tap-rooted harvest and Bacillus thuringiensis temic insecticides. Systemic insec- such and parsnips, by right up to the harvest. Apply ticides persist in the plant sap for chewing round in them. sprays or dusts while caterpillars a short period and are sucked in They are legless, creamy are small. Caterpillars are most by the insect. Soil fumigants are gmbs up to lo mm long which active during the summer and used to control nematodes. live in the soil. The adults are autumn months.

The most common home garden similar to the vegetable weevil, but pests and suitable control mea- are more feed sures are discussed here. The at night time. rates of pesticides mentioned are Control. There is no satisfactory

given in the section on pesticides. chemical control for home garden use. The beds should always be

ving pests kept as clean as possible of weeds, and the crop rotated to prevent

n vegetable weevil any build up of the weevils. is a sporadic pest of vege-

tables. The adults are brownish- Cabbage caterpillars grey beetles, 6 to 8 mm long, with Three types of caterpillar cause Cabbage and roterpillar (en. a snout, parallel sides, and a V serious damage to cabbage and larged aborrt three t imes).

Cutworms or armyworms Cutworms or armyworms are the larvae of several species of moths. The caterpillars are 35 to 50 mm long and brown to green ; some are striped. Some feed only at night and hide in the soil or under debris during the day; others spend their entire larval life on the plant and feed in the daytime. They attack many vegetables and cause damage by eating young seedlings or transplants. They also eat leaves and fruit. Control. Cutworms can be con- trolled by spraying with carbaryl.

Cutworrns may damage young seed- lings.

Earwigs The European earwig is a dark brown insect 12 to 15 mm long with a pair of " forceps " on the rear of the body. It runs quickly along the ground although it does have short wings. Earwigs feed at night and hide during the day under rubbish and clods and in crevices. They chew holes in

Earwigs live under cover during the day and feed at night.

leaves, stems and flowers of vege- table and other garden plants. Control. Clean up rubbish and other possible hiding places and spray these areas with carbaryl. Foliage can be protected by spray- ing with carbaryl. Use at concen- tration of 0 - 1 % when spraying foliage. For longer protection use a spray of 0.25% on hard sur- faces (paths, bottom of fences etc) near the vegetable garden.

Potato Caterpillars The adult is a small grey-brown moth about 12mm across the wings. The larva is a caterpillar with a grey or greenish body 12 mm long and with a dark brown head. They burrow into leaves and stems of potatoes and tom- atoes and into exposed potato tubers.

Potato caterpillar twice the natlcral size ancl ad~l l t moth four times the rlatural size.

Control. Spray or dust the plants with maldison or carbaryl. They can be used to within three days of harvest. If the plants are well watered and if the developing tubers are kept well covered with soil by regular cultivation, other control measures are rarely needed.

Slugs and snails Slugs and snails are not insects but have a chewing habit and they are a common pest in most gar- dens. They are generally more trouble to the home gardener than to the commercial grower as they shelter under rocks, shrubs and

hedges and then move into the vegetable patch at night. Like many chewing insects they cause severe damage to seedlings and young plants. Slugs and snails are more active when conditions are moist and cool. Control. Spread metaldhyde or methiocarb (Baysol ) baits around the edge of beds or around individual plants. Place baits be- tween vegetable beds and places where slugs and snails seek shelter. Sprinkle Baysol baits, do not heap them. Metaldhyde baits are most effective when they are applied in damp weather immediately fol- lowed by a sunny period. Hand- picking is also a most effective method of control.

Tomato caterpillars The tomato caterpillars (Heliotlzis species) are 35 mm long when fully grown and range from green to almost black, and have mark- ings along the side. The adult moth lays the eggs singly on the leaves of the crop and when the young caterpillars hatch they bore into the tomato fruit, usually at the stem end.

The tomato caterpillnr is about 35 m m long fully grown. The adrtlt moth is a grey brown color with a wingspan of 25 m m .

Control. Spray or dust tomatoes with maldison or carbaryl. These materials should be applied at from seven-to-10-day intervals during the summer months. Mal- dison and carbaryl can be used to within three days of harvest.

Sucking pests Aphids Aphids are small, soft-bodied in- sects, grey, green or black. Some are winged. They live in colonies on many plants and suck sap, causing the plant to wilt and turn yellow. Aphids also spread some virus diseases.

less and pale. They are found on the underside of leaves. The leafhopper can jump quickly and the adults can fly rapidly. Injury is caused by the insects )sucking the leaves, which gives leaves a white stippled appearance. Leaf- hoppers transmit some virus and virus-like diseases. All crops are attacked but tomatoes and cucur- bits are most seriously affected.

Green peach aphid enlarged about 12 times ( l e f t ) .

Control. Spray or dust with mal- dison, dimethoate, pyrethrum or rotenone. Because aphids deve- lop on the underside of leaves and in the growing points of plants, thorough insecticide application is most .important. Spray or dust as 'soon as aphid colonies are ob- served and destroy or spray nearby weeds which will also harbor these pests.

Harlequin bug The harlequin bug has bright red and black markings on a shield- shaped back. The adult and the young will suck sap from most garden plants.

,ontrol. Hand pick the bugs from the plants. Maldison will control the younger bugs, but it is not effective against the adults. Re- move weeds and rubbish around the garden. The bugs can also be trapped by spreading old bags nn the ground near the plants and

ken daily collecting the insects hich hide underneath.

Leafhopper or Jassid Several species of leafhopper attack garden plants. They are small slender green-brown insects about 3 mm long. The young are wing-

Control. Spray or dust with mal- dison, dimethoate, pyrethrum, or rotenone. Under conditions fav- orable to leafhopper breeding, re- infestation will occur very soon after spraying or dusting. I t is virtually impossible to obtain good control under these conditions without spraying or dusting every few days.

Greenhouse whitefly These are tiny white flying insects which cluster in large numbers on the underside of leaves, especially on tomatoes and beans. The juvenile stages are pale green scale- like objects attached to the leaves. Whiteflies suck the sap, but dam- age is apparent only when very large numbers are present. Leaf damage is more often due to the presence of two-spotted mites in addition to whitefly. Control. Spraying with maldison directed under the leaves will kill whiteflies, but reinfestation can occur very quickly. Leaves with many of the scales turned black are an indication that a parasitic wasp is controlling the whitefly.

Two-spotted mite, or red spider highly magnified. The mite is just visible to the naked eye.

Two-spotted mite I

Two-spotted mite, also called " red spider" is barely visible to the naked eye. Its color ranges from yellow to red. It spins a silvery web which can be seen on the underside of leaves. The mite sucks sap from leaves and stems and an infestation is first seen as a white stippling on the leaves which later turn yellow. They attack several vegetable crops. Beans, cucurbits, tomatoes and celery are mostly affected. Control. Spray with dicofol or dust with sulphur. Maldison will kill the adult mite but it has no effect on the eggs, therefore repeat maldison applications every seven to 10 days.

Red-legged earthmite The adult mite is larger than the two-spotted mite. It has a velvety black body with four pairs of salmon pink legs. Young mites also have a red body. The mites cluster together on foliage ; their

Red-legged earthmite.

sucking of sap from the leaves gives the leaves a bleached appear- ance. Damage to young seedlings can be severe. Control. Spray with maldison.

Rutherglen bug The Rutherglen bug is a small brown insect with silvery grey wings. The insects are usually present in large numbers, sucking sap from fruits, leaves and flowers and causing plants to shrivel. They attack all garden plants including fruit trees and are most active in mid-summer. Rutherglen bug plagues do not occur every season.

Diseases Control. Maldison will control im- mature bugs. Adults are difficult to kill.

Tomato mite Tomato mites are w r y srr~all in- sects which may be seen only with a magnifying glass. They move slowly along the stems and leaves of the tomato plant and cause wilting and eventual defoliation by sucking sap. Affected plants have a bronzed appearance. Infesta- tion begins at the bottom of the plant and gradually works up the plant. Mites cause most damage when conditions are hot and dry in the late summer and early autumn. Control. Dust with sulphur or spray with colloidal sulphur. Sulphur can be applied separately or in combination with insecticides and fungicides.

Thrips There are several species of thrips. They are small slender insects about one mm long, pointed and yellowish-brown to black. They have two pairs of fringed wings carried lengthwise along the back. Thrips rasp leaf tissue, sucking the sap which exudes from the wound; the leaves take on a silvery appear- ance. Thrips are active during hot weather and attack a wide range of crops; they also damage flowers and affect the setting of fruit.

Thrips rasp leaf tissue and suck sap. They are about one mm long.

Control. Maldison dust or spray will effectively control thrips ; re- peat in 10 days if necessary. Rotenone and pyrethrum will also give control.

Diseases can cause losses in veget- able crops from the time the seed is sown until after they are harvested.

Bacterial soft rot infection in a caiiliflo~vcr crrrd.

The most obvious diseases are number of diseases which affect those which completely kill plants vegetables, it is impossible to dis- or make produce quite inedible. cuss them all fully. Only those Other diseases which are not as which generally affect the home damaging and which attract less gardener are considered. attention can nevertheless cause a decline in both yield and quality.

The diseases which mainly con- cern the gardener are caused by plant pathogens--organisms which live on plant tissue and reduce the vigor of the plant and affect its development. These organisms are either fungi, which cause most troubles, bacteria or viruses.

Disease can also occur without the presence of a pathogen. This is the result of some upset in the plant's metabolism caused usually by too little or too much plant food, or too much or too little water. Upsets are also caused by chemical poisons and by growth- regulating substances such as weedicides.

Pathogenic diseases only are con- sidered here ; nutritional aspects are discussed under individual crops. Because of the very large

Grey mould Grey mould is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Under suitable humid conditions, it can occur on young shoots of almost any plant in the home garden. The fungus usually infects plant tissue through either wounds or yellow- ing leaves, but it can also directly infect delicate healthy tissue such as flower petals and young leaves when the atmosphere is very humid. Infected tissue develops a soft watery rot and becomes covered with a layer of ashen grey mould. The disease is common in plantings of beans, lettuces and tomatoes and is sometimes respon- sible for the rotting of vegetables in storage. Control. Avoid damaging plants or fruit in any way and discard affected vegetables before storing. The usual fungicides used in the

A n onion bulb infected witlz grey moulrl caused by Botrytis fungi.

home garden are ineffective. How- ever, commercial growers achieve some control with the fungicide benomyl, but it must be applied at an early stage of growth.

Damping-off Darninpg-off is a seedling disease, which is caused by a number of soil-inhabiting fungi, and is often referred to as either " pre-emer- gence " or " post-emergence " damping-off, depending on whether the seedlings are killed

. before or after emergence. The pre-emergence form does the most damage in cold, wet soils. Post- emergence damping-off is more troublesome in warm humid situa- tions, especially when seedlings are crowded. Control. Damping-off is almost impossible to control once it has started and therefore preventive measures are essential. To pre- vent pre-emergence damping-off dust seeds with thiram or captan. This can be applied to small seeds by adding a pinch of fungicide (enough to cover the tip of a pen- knife) to a seed packet and shak- ing it. Larger seeds should be treated by shaking the fungicide and seed in a screw-top jar. Do not use too much fungicide as this may impair germination.

To prevent post-emergence damping-off, it is best to use fresh soil which has not been used for seedlings previously, a mixture of inert material such as peat moss

and vermiculite or soil treated by heat or a chemical. Heat treat- ment is not usually practical in the garden, but chemical methods are quite effective. Formalin is the easiest and least toxic material for home garden use. Mix one part of commercial formalin with 49 parts of water and apply the mixture at 5 litres per square metre on a loosely dug bed. Cover the bed with polythene sheeting

either the seed bed before sowing or the seedlings after emergence. It should be applied at the rate of 25 ml in 10 litres of water to one square metre of seed bed. Plants should be watered to re- move excess fungicide.

Downy mildew Downy mildew affects a number of vegetable crops and is most troublesome when conditions are

Good ventilatio~z of seedheils t r ~ i l l Iwlp pr

for two days to hold in the formalin gas. After this period re- move the covers and dig the bed over to let the gas escape. Do not plant in treated soil for at least two weeks.

Seed beds should be ventilated once the seedlings have emerged so that they do not become hot and humid. Avoid watering seed- lings late in the day, otherwise the leaves will remain wet overnight and the atmosphere in the seed bed will remain humid.

If symptoms of damping-off do appear in a seed bed the fungicide zineb should be applied to the seedlings and the soil at the rate of 35 g in 10 litres of water to the square metre. The seedlings should then be watered so that the excess fungicide is removed from the foliage.

The fungicide Le San Dx Q is effective against the Pythiaceous group of fungi which cause damp- ing-off. I t can be used to treat

humid. The disease is caused by several closely related fungi, each of which has a very limited host range. For example, the fungus causing mildew of cabbage will only attack members of the cru- cifer family; similarly the fungus causing downy mildew of onion is restricted to plants closely related to the onion.

Vegetables most prone to downy mildew are the crucifers, lettuce, onion and rhubarb. Downy mildew also occurs in peas, beet root, silver beet and spinach, but it is not as common in these crops. Crucifers-Downy mildew causes most damage to seedlings. Initially the fungus forms a downy white growth on the under surface of a young leaf and this is followed by yellowing of the corresponding area on the upper surface. The young leaf when completely yellow may be shed. On older plants the fungus sometimes causes dark

U ( I \ ~ , I ~ \ r~iiltie~t, c.triisc,.\ /(rr.gr, ll?obr'n nrzgrrlrrr spots or1 the lrnves of rhrtbnrb.

purple spots on the leaves and floral parts. Lettuce-Infection of seedlings by downy mildew fungus will seriously retard their growth. The affected leaf at first develops a downy white growth on the under surface and a corresponding yellow area on its upper surface. Later the whole leaf turns brown and collapses. 'Onions-Downy mildew is mainly a problem in onions grown in sheltered situations. The fungus forms a downy white to purple growth over the surfaces of the leaves and is often followed by other fungi which produce dark mouldy growth. Generally plants are not killed by this disease but bulb growth is retarded. Rhubarb-Downy mildew causes large angular brown spots on the upper surface of leaves and a downy white to violet growth on the under surface. As the disease progresses some spots tear away from the healthy tissue and the foliage becomes ragged in appear- ance. Control. Plants should be sprayed with either Bordeaux, copper oxy- chloride, cupric hydroxide, zineb, maneb or mancozeb or alterna- tively dusted with zineb.

Powdery mildew Powdery mildew is caused by

several fungal species each of which contains strains that are specialised in their host range. Many vegetables are affected by powdery mildews, but the disease is mainly a problem in cucurbits.

Powdery mildew first becomes noticeable as a white powdery growth on the foliage, especially on the upper leaves of the host plant. At first the tissue beneath the mildew remains normal in ap- pearance, but later it becomes brown and dry. Usually the mildew spreads rapidly over the whole foliage and plant growth is

responsible for poor germination of many vegetables of the cucurbit family.

Wilting diseases are caused by some strains of Fusarium. Initially the affected plants show slight wilt- ing at times of water stress such as in the middle of the day. How- ever, as the disease progresses, the amount of wilting increases until finally the entire plant wilts and dies.

Other strains of Fusarium species cause root-rotting of their I

host plants. On established plants, the commonest symptom is a red- 1

Onion bulbs infected with Fusarium rot.

retarded. Control. Plants should be sprayed with benomyl. Alternatively sul- phur dust may be used but this frequently burns cucurbits.

Fusarium diseases Fusarium diseases are caused by several closely related fungal species each of which contains strains that have an extremely limited host range. For example, the Fusarium oxysporum strain, which causes wilt in tomato, will not attack other plant species. Vegetables most commonly affected by Fusarium diseases are beans, cucurbits, potatoes, onions and tomatoes.

Some strains of Fusarium species that cause damping-off of seed- lings in the home garden are often

brown discoloration of the lower stem and roots. This is often accompanied by wilting of the entire plant. Control. Seeds should be dusted with thiram to reduce rotting of seed and damping-off of seedlings. Resistant varieties (for example, the tomato Burnley Gem) are available for some of these Fusarium diseases. Use rotations which reduce the build-up of Fusarium.

Verticillium wilt Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-inhabiting fungus which has a wide host range. Some of the com- mon hosts in the home garden are cucurbits, potatoes, tomatoes, chrysanthemums, dahlias, snap- dragons and strawberries. The

fungus usually first infects young uninjured hosts and then passes into the conducting tissue. Initially this causes a wilting of the lower leaves, but later the plant may become defoliated and .die. Control. Rotation is the most effective means of control ; affected areas should not be re- planted with susceptible hosts. Some resistant varieties of tomato, such as Burnley Surecrop, are now available and should be used in affected areas. Verticillium can be introduced in infected seedlings and therefore care should be taken to purchase healthy plants.

Sclerotinia Sclerotinia is a fungus disease which can affect a large number of plants in the home garden. It can attack almost any vegetable but is particularly troublesome on beans, and lettuce. Infection by the fungus may occur at any point on the parts above ground of the host plant and is quickly followed by a soft brown rot. The affected tissue becomes covered with a whitish mould and as the disease progresses, black pebble-like bodies (sclerotia) are formed on

Sclerotinia lrgrecrlng carrots. This disease attacks a large nr~rn l~e r - of vegetnble crops.

Halo h l ig l~ t ic.rior~s orz berrrz potis. 7 ' h i b

the white growth. The disease is carried over by the sclerotia which are able to survive in the soil for many years.

Control. Because of the wide host range effective control of sclero- tinia is extremely difficult. How-

'ever spraying with benomyl should give some control in the growing

crop. In addition, diseased plant debris should either be burnt or buried at the end of the season.

If the area is naturally damp the drainage should be improved as the disease is generally worse in wet situations. If the disease is limited to a very small area the top 150 mm of soil, which will contain the sclerotes, should be

removed and buried to a depth of at least 300 mm.

Bacterial blight of beans Bacterial blights are some of the most serious diseases of dwarf and climbing beans. The symptoms are small, brown dead areas sur- rounded by a larger yellow area or halo. Small water-soaked patches appear on the pods and an ooze-like candlegrease develops on these lesions. Control. The disease is seed- borne, therefore where possible buy certified seed. Bordeaux, cupric hydroxide or copper oxy- chloride will check the spread of bacterial blights.

Summer death of beans Summer death causes rapid wilt- ing of susceptible varieties of dwarf beans. The disease is trans- mitted by leafhoppers and is most severe in dry inland areas. Stringed varieties are not susceptible but it does affect many commercial stringless varieties. Control. Use resistant stringless .varieties such as Apollo, Canyon or Cascade.

Sprollt plarlt showing rile effects of ~ 1 1 t h root disease. The Ico~,es of affected plants turn yellow and wilt o n 11ot days.

Club root disease of crucifers Club root or "finger and toe disease " is caused by a soil in- habiting organism which invades root tissue, thereby producing galls and swellings. Leaves of infected plants turn yellowish and are liable to wilt on hot days. The disease can be spread by drainage water from infected areas.

Control. Seed beds should be sterilised with formalin before sow- ing and infested areas should not be cropped with crucifers for at least four years. Acid soils should be limed to raise the soil pH above 6 and drainage should be generally improved.

Moilc,rt~ strir~~/c,.c.c. Decrn varrrriec nrc resistant t o srtn~mer declrli rli.\r,ri.se The plant o n / / i f right is se~,rrely aflccted.

ck leg disease affects crucifer seed- lings at grosrnd level.

Blackrot and blackleg of crucifers Blackrot and blackleg are both seed-borne diseases. Blackrot is caused by bacteria which attack leaf tissue. The infected area

' ' becomes yellow and the veins blacken. This is followed by a general wilting of the plant.

Blackleg is caused by a fungus which invades the stem at ground level and produces sunken cankers. Sometimes these cankers enlarge and girdle the stem and thereby cause the plant to wilt and die. Control. Adopt the same measures as for clubroot and also hot water; treat seed just prior to sowing. Do not treat seed more than two years old or damage may result. Spray with Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, or cupric hydroxide to control blackrot in the garden.

Whiterot of onions Whiterot is a fungal disease which affects garlic, leek and shallot as well as onion. The fungus attacks the roots and the base of the bulb and forms a white cotton-like growth over the surface of the invaded tissue. At the same time

the leaves of the infected plants yellow and die back. Minute black fungal bodies (sclerotia) are formed on the diseased tissue and are responsible for the carry-over and spread of the disease. Sclerotia are known to survive for up to 25 years. Control. Affected plants should be burnt or alternatively they should be buried to a depth of at least 600 mm. The disease is introducsd into most gardens on infected seedlings, therefore be sure to purchase healthy seedlings if you don't grow onions from seed.

Neckrot of onions Neckrot is a fungal disease which can cause considerable loss of onions and shallots in storage. The fungus attacks the neck of the bulb either directly or through yellow- ing leaves, and then passes down to the bulb. After harvest the fungus spreads and rots the bulbs if they are stored under humid conditions. Bulbs with thick necks are especially susceptible. Control. Bulbs should not be harvested until the tops have gone down and then they should be cured in a dry shed rather than in the open. Well dried well stored onions are seldom affected by this disease.

Bacterial canker of tomatoes i Bacterial canker causes foliage to '

turn brown and die, usually on one side of the plant. Dark brown sunken cankers develop on the stem and raised spots may appear on the fruit while it is green. Control. Do not use seed from in- fected plants and when in doubt treat seed with hot water. Destroy all infected plants and do not re- plant tomatoes in the same bed.

Bacterial speck and bacterial spot of tomatoes Bacterial speck and bacterial spot affect the stems, leaves and fruit of tomatoes. The diseases are seed and soil borne and are readily transmitted from plant to plant by splashing water from sprinklers. , Leaves and stems develop small dark areas at the point of attack. Fruit develop characteristic raised black specks or spots which greatly detract from their appearance. Control. Spray as necessary with cupric hydroxide, copper oxy- chloride or Bordeaux mixture. Copper sprays only control the spread of the diseases, other con- trol measures are the same as for bacterial canker.

Tile orzio~zs or! the r ight arc cificr,/ctl h y rr)i~irerot ~Jlscase. I..f'hiferor, orice introduced, is nln?ost it~~possible ro control.

Bacterial speck o f tomatoes can be checked with copper sprays.

Bid bud or purple top of tomatoes md potatoes rhis is a virus-like disease which affects both tomatoes and potatoes. Enlarged flower buds and growing points develop on the affected plants, and the foliage and stems turn purple. The disease is spread by leafhoppers. Control. Maintain an insect con- trol program and destroy affected plants.

Early blight or target spot of tomatoes and potatoes Early blight or target spot is a fungus disease which affects both tomatoes and Dotatoes. The disease first appears on the lower leaves as dark brown, concen- trically ringed spots and gradually spreads upwards to other leaves. Tomato fruit and potato tubers may also be affected by the fungus. Control. Spray or dust with maneb, zineb or mancozeb.

Late or Irish blight of tomatoes and potatoes Late blight is a fungal disease which occasionally affects both tomatoes and potatoes when con- ditions are warm and humid. The disease is first seen as irregular water-soaked areas on leaves and stems. The stems blacken and de- cay. Tomato fruit and potato tubers may also be attacked by the

Earl: v Blight or target spot lesions or? tornato fruit.

fungus. The spread of the di- sease is dependent on prevailing weather conditions and it is checked by dry weather. Control. Spray or dust with maneb, mancozeb or zineb.

'cal spotted wilt diseasc symptoms on tonlato fruit. Spotted ~vi l t is spread by IS.

Spotted wilt of tomatoes, lettuce and potatoes Spotted wilt is a virus disease of tomatoes, lettuce and potatoes which is spread by thrips. SeveraI ornamentals, including dahlias, are susceptible to spotted wilt. Plants are stunted if infection is early and foliage becomes bronzed with dark irregular markings. The plants turn yellow and die. Blotchy patches develop on tomato fruit

and may be the only marked cymptom if infection is late.

:ontrol. Try to control thrips :om the seedling stage. Remove nd bum infected plants. Use overnment certified potato seed.

'obacco mosaic virus 'obacco mosaic virus causes a lottling and slight puckering of :aves of tomatoes and peppers. adly affected plants are stunted nd the fruit may develop brown lotches as it ripens. :ontrol. The disease is carried ver on seed and plant debris and

is spread from plant to plant by handling and by insects. Do not save seed from affected plants and <destroy all diseased plants. Seed can be treated by soaking in a 10% solution of tri-sodium phos- phate for 30 minutes to control virus on the seed surface. This solution can also be used to dis- infect hands when pruning.

Controlling seed-borne

lumber of diseases which affect etable crops are transmitted on in the seed. There are two In methods of controlling :ases which are seed-borne-

roducing seed from disease-free -ops or treating the seed with :at or chemicals to kill the

,,le disease organisms.

'Heat treatment Heat treating seed in hot water is :a relatively simple operation, but water temperature and the timing .of the heat treatment are quite critical. If the seed is heated too much or for too long, viability may be impared, and if the tem- .perature is too low or the treat- .merit time too short the disease torganism may survive. Never heat sold seed.

Small lots of seed are easily treated in the kitchen using a basin or saucepan. Adjust the

Seed disease time temp

Cabbage

min "C

Blackleg and blackrot 30 50

Cauliflower Blackleg and blackrot 20 50 -- -

Brussels Sprouts Blackleg and blackrot 20 50

Broccoli Blackleg and blackrot 20 50

Celery Celery leaf spot 30 48

Tomatoes Bacterial canker 25 55

temperature by adding hot or cold water ; never heat the vessel directly at the stove. Place the seed in a muslin bag or old cotton sock along with a small stone to weight it down and com- pletely immerse in a water bath. Check the temperature from time to time and bring it up with a small quantity of hot water if necessary.

When the time is up, im- mediately remove the bag and plunge it into cold water. Dry the seed on newspaper in a dry place away from direct sunlight. When dry, the seed should be dusted with thiram and stored until required. An accurate thermometer is essential for suc- cessful hot water treatment of seeds.

Chemical treatment Several chemical treatments can be used to control specific seed- borne diseases. Tri-sodium phosphate treatment of tomato seed is most useful for gardeners who save their own seed. Soak seed in a 0.1 % tri-sodium phos- phate solution for 30 minutes and dry as described above. The solution is prepared by dissolving one gram of tri-sodium phosphate in a litre of water. Tri-sodium phosphate will control the virus on the seed surface only.

Seedsmen use a 24-hour thiram soak to control a number of other seed-borne diseases but the tech- nique is rather too specialised for home-seed treatment.

Hot water treatment of seed can be carried out in a drum insulated toprevent heat loss. The temperature should be checked frequently and a4usted if necessary.

Spraying vegetables with a sinzple bucket spray. The plastic raincorrt helps protect the operator from any drif t . Wash protective clothing after use.

Pesticides for vegetables Insecticides and fungicides are poisons. Some are extremely dan- gerous and cannot be recom- mended for use in the home garden. These materials must be used only by experienced oper- ators. Many materials listed in this publication are quite toxic to humans and animals, but they are less hazardous to use. Extreme care must always be exercised with pesticides-they are poisons.

Read the directions on the con- tainer and note and heed all warnings. Keep all pesticides in their original containers and ensure that they remain correctly labelled. If in doubt destroy the material and the container by burying it deeply. Never store pesticides in old food containers especially bottles. This is against the law. Keep all pesticides out of the reach of children and pets. Lock all pesticides in a cup- board. Store materials away

Caution from light, they will keep better. Always observe these safety pre- Take particular care when mix- cautions ing concentrated pesticides ;

preferably wear rubber gloves. Cotton overalls give protection for most garden spraying jobs. However, they should be kept laundered and they must be changed immediately if they be- come wet. Wash hands and clothing at once if spray is spilt. Avoid inhaling spray mist o r dust. Do not smoke or eat while spraying. Mix up only enough spray for the job in hand. This avoids the risk of contaminating the environment with discarded spray, as unused spray mixture will not keep. 1 Keep children and pets away. from bottles and equipment while you are working. 1 Wash out empty containers 1 thoroughly, and bury them o r place in a lidded garbage can. Wash all equipment thoroughly, including measures and the sprayer. Wash face and hands thoroughly with soap and water after spray- ing or dusting. Avoid leaving harmful residues on vegetables by not applying sprays or dusts closer to harvest than the interval recom- mended. Always wash vege- tables and fruit thoroughly before cooking or eating raw.

The following pesticides are suit- able for controlling pests and' diseases in the home garden. Mix and use according to the directions printed on the label.

Pesticides for the home vegetable garden The pesticides listed below are all suitable for home garden use, more details about each material are: given in this section. Although these pesticides are of low t@ medium hazard they can be quite dangerous in the concentrated form. Follow the safety precau- tions outlined above and a l s ~ on the label. Dilute the spray con- centrate according to label direc- tions.

59

Pesticides for vegetables Users Withhold

Common name Brand Name hazard period * B~cill~rs thurinniensis Dipel, Thuricide low 0

~ e n ~ a t e Benomyl low 0

Carbaryl Bugmaster, Resistox, medium 3 Septene, Sevin, Zevilon

Copper oxychloride Cobox, Cupravit, Cuprox, medium 1 Oxydul, Tricrop, Vitigran

Cupric hydroxide Kocide medium 1

Dicofol Kelthane medium 7

Dimethoate Roger, Perfekthion medium 7

Maldison Malathion low 3

Mancozeb Dithane M-45, Manzate low 7

Maneb Mangan, Curit low 7

Sulphur Cosan, Elosal, Kumulus not toxic 0 S Sulfaloid. Thiovit

Zineb Zebtox, Curit low 7

Pyrethrum Slay AFE concentrate low 1 Sure Kill concentrate Pyrethrum insect dust

Rotenone Derris Dust, Derris Vege low 3 Dust and Derridust (no liquid formulations of Rotenone

*Minimum number of days between application and harvest

Insecticides Carbaryl Carbaryl is a carbamate insecticide with a short residual life. It is a contact poison and is particularly useful on vegetable crops as it can be applied within three days of harvest. Carbaryl can be used for the control of most caterpillars but is not effective against the cater- pillar of the cabbage white butter- fly. It will also control earwigs, webworms, pumpkin beetle and leaf miner. Mix 10 g of 80% carbaryl in 8 litres of water.

Rotenone Rotenone (Derris) dust is both a contact insecticide and a stomach poison and is relatively less toxic to humans. It will control soft- bodied insects such as aphids, leaf- hoppers thrips, and small cabbage caterpillars. The active constitu- ent of Derris dust is rotenone and to be effective it must contain at

least 0 .5%. Like pyrethrum it is not as effective as the newer and more toxic materials but both of these materials have an important place in the home garden as they can be used up to harvest time. Sunlight and alkaline ma'terials rapidly inactivate rotenone.

Bacillus thuringiensis Bacillus thuringiensis (Dipel @ and Thuricide ) is a bio- logical insecticide based on a pre- paration of a bacterium. Affected caterpillars cease eating, and soon die. Because it is specific to cater- pillars, it does not present a hazard to beneficial insects, or to birds or animals, or humans, and can be used up to the day of pick- ing without hazard to the user.

Dimethoate Dimethoate (Rogor @ or Per- fekthion @ ) is an organic phosphate insecticide. It is moder- ately toxic to humans and should

be handled carefully; avoid skin contact and do not breathe the vapor. Use rubber gloves when handling the concentrate.

Dimethoate is a systemic insec- ticide (carried in the plant sap stream) and will control thrips, aphids, leafhoppers and plant- sucking bugs. It is sold as a 20% aqueous solution. Mix 15 ml of 20% concentrate with 10 litres of water to make a -03% solution. Do not apply within seven days of harvest.

Maldison Maldison (Malathion @ ) is also an organic phosphate insecticide with a short residual life. It is moderately toxic to humans and should be handled carefully especially in the concentrated form. It is a contact poison and is effective against a wide range of insects including aphids, leafhoppers, pumpkin beetle, thrips, green vegetable bug, Rutherglen bug, red-legged earth- mite and the caterpillars of the potato and tomato moth. Maldison is one of the most valuable insec- ticides for the home garden. Crops can be harvested three days after application.

Maldison is available as a dust and as an emulsion. Mix 10 ml of 10% emulsion with 10 litres of water to make a 0 .1 % solution.

Metaldehyde Metaldehyde is the active ingre- dient in prepared baits sold for the control of slugs and snails. Keep pets away from baits, as baits are attractive to dogs and cats.

Methiocarb Methiocarb (Baysol @) is car- bamate insecticide used as the active ingredient of Baysol slug and snail bait.

Dicofol Dicofol (Kelthane 8 ) is a miticide, and is particularly effective against two-spotted mite and tomato mite. Apply when mites are first noticed but not

within seven days of harvest. Apply dicofol as a 0.03 % spray which should be prepared accord- ing to the manufacturer's direc- tions.

Pyrethrum Pyrethrum is relatively less toxic to humans and animals and although not as effective as more toxic materials it is a useful contact insecticide. Pyrethrum can be used to within one day of harvest and will control aphids, thrips, leafhoppers and other soft- bodied inseots. It has no residual killing power. Apply pyrethrum as dust or spray.

Sulphur Sulphur is used mainly as a fungi- cide on fruit trees and ornamentals. Its use as a fungicide on vege- table crops is limited because of the damage it causes to crops, especially cucurbits.

Sulphur is an excellent miticide and regular fortnightly dust or spray will keep tomatoes free of mite in the summer months. Sulphur is often sold as mixed tomato dust and sprays. Mix 25 to 35 g of colloidal sulphur with 10 litres of water to make a suit- able spray mixture.

Fungicides Benomyl Benomyl (Benlate @) will control powdery mildew but not downy mildew. I t is also effective against sclerotinia and grey mould when infection is not severe. Do not use benomyl within three days of harvest.

Bordeaux mixture Bordeaux will control many fungal diseases including rust on beans, broad beans, beetroot and silver beet ; downy mildew on beetroot, capsicums, crucifers, lettuce, onions, peas, rhubarb, silver beet and spinach ; leaf spots on celery, parsnip and peas ; leaf blight on carrots ; anthracnose on lettuce ;

chocolate spot on broad beans ; and ring spot on crucifers. It is also effective against bacterial diseases such as halo blight on beans, bacterial canker on tomatoes and bacterial spot and speck on tomatoes.

Bordeaux mixture should be freshly prepared each time it is used. To make this fungicide, dis- solve 100 g of bluestone crystals in 5 litres of water in a plastic bucket or other non-metallic con- tainer. In a second bucket add 100 g of slaked lime (Limil @ ) to 5 litres of water and then mix the contents of the two buckets.

Copper oxychloride and cupric hydroxide These copper containing fungi- cides are alternatives to Bordeaux mixture and are far easier to pre- pare. Mix the powder with water according to the manufacturers directions. A number of copper dusting compounds are also avail- able.

Thiram Thiram is used mainly for dust- ing seed to prevent pre-emergence damping-off. I t is suitable for seeds of all types of vegetable crops.

Zieb, maneb and mancozeb These fungicides have a wide use in the vegetable garden and are available as dusts and also as wet- table powders. They are particu- larly effective against early and late blight in potatoes and tomatoes and also against septoria spot of tomatoes. Zineb can be used as an alternative to copper sprays, for the control of mildew on lettuce, onions, peas, silver beet, and spinach. Do not apply within seven days of harvest.

Dusting and spraying Where pesticides are available to control a pest or disease apply at the first sign of damage and repeat as necessary. However, do not overspray or dust, as too much pesticide may damage the crop or leave undesirable residues. Always observe the recommended with- hol-ding period-the minimum time which must elapse between pesticide application and harvest.

Many insecticides and fungi- cides can be applied as either dusts or sprays.

Both dusts and sprays are effective when applied properly, although sprays are generally longer lasting than dusts. Dusts are washed off plant surfaces easily by rain and sprinklers, and must be applied more frequently. However, when dusts are applied properly, they can often cover the plant surface more effectively. Dusts require no mixing and, as you do not have to carry any water, the work is much lighter.

Dusting Apply an even light coating of dust over the crop. Avoid putting it on in " blobs" as this is not only wasteful and less effective, but is also likely to damage the crop. Use dust at the rate of about 40 g to 15 metres of row or ten square metres. Dust when the air is still and force the dust through the foliage rather than apply it over the top.

Apply dusts with a small dust- ing machine to ensure even cover- age, small garden dusters are avail- able from garden suppliers.

Spraying Unlike dusts, sprays are rarely marketed ready to use, and they must be mixed with water. Sprays are formulated as emulsifiable con- centrates or wettable powders. These often contain different con- centrations of the active constitu- ents, therefore it is essential to

A sitnple garden duster made from an old plastic detergent bottle.

follow the manufacturer's recom- mendations on the bottle or packet. Vegetable supplies: -

~t is best to first mix t6e con- storage and centrate, emulsion or powder with a little water and then dilute it to preservation the desired strength. When using wettable powder formulations it is necessary to keep the mixture agitated to prevent the powder set- tling in the sprayer. Apply about one litre of spray to 20 metres of row or 12 square metres. The amount will depend on the stage of growth of the crop.

Apply a coarse spray, not a fine mist, and ensure that the leaves are thoroughly wet. There are a number of good spray applicators sui,table for the home vegetable garden, they range from one to eighteen litre capacity. A simple sprayer which draws liquid from an open bucket through about three metres of plastic hose is ideal, the spray bucket can be left at the edge of the plot and the spray lance can be directed into the crop.

- Planning family supplies The information in the table on pages 64 and 65 will help garden- ers plan planting to suit their own particular requirements. The size of planting, row length or number of plants is for a family of four.

The germination time, time to reach table size and harvest period will all depend on local conditions; these figures are intended as a guide only.

Planting priorities The probable value of each vege- table crop to the home gardener is suggested in the table in the guide to supply for the family. Not only must you consider the likes and dislikes of the family, but also the amount different vegetables will yield and the attention they will require.

Vegetables that yield most 1. Tomatoes 2. Climbing Beans 3. Brussels Sprouts 4. Broccoli 5. Onions 6. Dwarf Beans 7. Beetroot 8. Parsnips 9. Carrots

10. Silver Beet 11. Lettuce 12. Turnips 13. Leeks 14. Asparagus 15. Cabbage 16. Cauliflower 17. Potatoes 18. Peas 19. Rhubarb

Vegetables which require least attention Not all gardeners can devote the amount of time they would like to the vegetable garden. The crops requiring least attention are shown first. 1. Vine vegetables of all kinds 2. Rhubarb

3. Asparagus 4. Culinary Herbs 5. Radishes 6. Artichokes 7. Potatoes 8. Peas 9. Silver Beet

10. Chinese Cabbage 11. Sweet Corn 12. Beans 13. Broccoli 14. Brussels Sprouts 15. Cabbage 16. Cauliflower 17. Lettuce 18. Turnips 19. Onions 20. Leeks 21. Parsnips 22. Beetroot 23. Carrots 24. Tomatoes 25. Celery.

Storing Vegetables Whenever possible use vegetables as they mature, however, surplus supplies can be stored in several ways. The storage period indicated is for ideal conditions of tem- perature and humidity. Always harvest vegetables which are to be stored with care and reject any which are imperfect, damaged or diseased.

Domestic refrigerators operate at about 4OC and are suitable for holding leafy vegetables and tomatoes for short periods. The low humidity however will cause wilting or shrivelling.

Root crops can be stored in single layers in boxes of dry sand or larger quantities can be held in " clamps ". Clamps should be located on dry soil and the first layer of roots placed on a bed of 25 mm of dry sand, crowns to the outside. Each layer is covered with sand and the whole pile then covered with sand then straw and earth. The top of the clamp must be open for ventilation and plastic sheets can be placed over the sides to shed water. Always replace the covering after removing roots for use. Other methods of storing are

also discussed under individual crop headings.

Preserving vegetables Tomatoes and rhubarb are the only vegetables which should be bottled because of the risk of botulism. Beans can be salted or frozen and other vegetables can be frozen, pickled or dried.

Deep freezing of vegetables Home gardeners.who own a deep- freeze uni't can conserve their sur- plus vegetables by freezing them at the peak of the season.

Most vegetables may be deep frozen successfully by following these simple rules : 1. Select vegetables at the peak of the season when their flavor and texture are at their best. 2. Freeze them as soon as pos- sible after picking. 3. Wash the vegetables in cold water to remove any dirt or insects. 4. Prepare as for normal cooking. 5. Vegetables require blanching in boiling water to set the color and stop the enzyme action which causes the vegetables to have an "off" flavor and become tough. Use a big saucepan for blanch- ing and see that it contains a large amount of water. Do not blanch large quantities of vegetables at a time as it will take too long to return the water to the boil and the vegetables will overcook.

Place the vegetables in a wire basket or a piece of cloth. Plunge them into the rapidly boiling water. Heat until water begins to boil again and time from this point. If this takes more than two minutes then blanch smaller quantities each time. 6. At the end of the blanching time lift out the vegetables and plunge them into ice water.

It is necessary to thoroughly chill the vegetables before packing them into bags, otherwise they will continue to cook in their own

haat. Break one piece of veget- able open and see that it is cool to the centre. 7. Lift the chilled vegetables from the ice bath into a colander and allow to drain well. 8. When all of the water is drained from the vegetables pack quickly into suitable containers. Plastic bags are suitable for this purpose. Place sufficient vegetable for one meal in each bag as food cannot be thawed out and re-frozen. 9. When the vegetables are packed expel as much air as possible from the bag ; twist the top tightly, fold over and tie very tightly with a piece of string. Rubber bands are I not as satisfactory as string for 1 securing the tops of the bags as I

they tend to perish and break dur- ing freezing. 10. Place the bags in the freezer as soon as prepared and freeze at once.

Some vegetables are irregular in shape and hard to pack. Here is a hint you will find useful when preparing them : place the por- tions or vegetables into the freezer bag, plunge the bag into a deep pan of ice water, taking care to keep the top of the bag well above the surface of the water. Twist the top, fold over and tie down tightly. (See table on page 66).

L guide to supply for the family

Vegetable

Moderate Optimum storage planting conditions for family of four. Germination Weeks to Weeks of Approx. (No. of time table size harvest storage life plants or Temperature Relative metres of humidity row)

Days Weeks "C %

kticboke Globe (B) 3-4 pt. 17-2 1 40 12 1-2 0 90-95 Jerusalem (C) 10 pt. 40 12 10-12 0 90-95

Asparagus (C) 30-40 pt. 14-28 65 14 3-4 o 85-90

an Broad (A) 5-6 m. 6-10 18-20 8 1-3 4 85-90 Dwarf (A)* 5-6 m. 6-10 10-12 2 4 1-2 1-4 85-90 -

BU - Brc -

ztroot (A) . . 3-5 m. 7-10 10-12 10 4-12t. 0 90-95

xcoli (B)* 10-15 pt. 6-10 16-20 I4 2-3 0 90-95

ussels Sprout

bbage (B)*

bbage Chine

Capsicum (C)

5 pt. 6-10 16-20 16 3-4 0 90-95

5 pt. 6-10 1620 4 12-16 0 90-95

5 pt. 3-7 8-12 4 16-20 0 90-95

5-10 pt. 10-14 16 8 3-4 4-7 85-90

Carrots (A) * 6-8 m. 10-21 16-18 8-10 1620$ 0 90-95

Cauliflower (B)* 10-15 pt. 6-10 16-18 2 2-3 0 85-90

. Celery (O* 20 pt. 12-20 20 6 8-16 0 90-95

cumber (B) 4-6 pt. 6-8 8-10 3 19-2 7-10 85-95

g Plant (0 4 6 pt. IS15 16 8 I t 7-10 85-90

~hl Rabi (B)* 3-5 m. 6-8 10 3 2 4 0 90-95

:ks (B) 3 m. 8-12 13 4-12 0 90-95

tuce (A)* and Endive (C)* 3-5 m. 6-12 4 2-3 0 90-95

lrrow (B) 4-5 pt. 6-10 8 2-3 4 85-90

Melons Honeydew (C) 4-6 pt. 6-10 14-1 1 6-8 2-4 2-3 85-90 Rock (C) 4 6 pt. . . 14-17 6-8 1-l& 1-4 85-90 Jam (C) 4 6 pi. . . 14-17 6-8 4-6 2-4 85-90 Water (C) 4-6 pt. . . 14-17 6-8 2-3 2-4 85-90

Onions-(A) ?arly White, etc. 9-12 m. 8-12 28-32 12 6-8 M 65-75

Vegetable

Moderate Optimum storage planting conditions for family of four. Germination Weeks to Weeks of Approx. (No. of time table size harvest storage life plants or Temperature Relative metres of humidity row)

Onions-continued Days Brown Globe 15-18 m. 12-21 32 7

Pukekohe, Australian Brown 15-18 m. . . 32 7

Weeks "C % 13-18 0-4 65-75 26-32 &4 65-75

Parsley (A) 3 4 pi. 18-24 10-14 . . Pick as . . . . required

Parsnips (A)* 3-5 m. 10-21 20-24 12 8-16$ 0 90-95

Peas (C)' 6-9 m. 6-10 12-16 2 1-2 0 85-90

Potatoes (C) 5 M 0 pt. 20-30 21 16-20 12-16 6 1 0 85-90

Pumpkin (C) 1-3 pt. 6-10 14-17 8 8-24 10-13 70-75

Radish @)* 1 m. 4-6 &8 2 1-2 0 90-95

Rhubarb (A) 3-5 pt. 12-14 60 Perennial 2-3 0 90-95

Silver Beet (A) 3 4 m. 7-10 8-12 20 1-2 0 90-95

Spinach @)* 3 4 m. 6-12 8-10 6 1-2 0 90-95

Sweet Corn (0 15-20 pt. 6-10 12-16 1 t-1 0 90-95

. Squash Summer (B) 2 4 pt. 6-10 14-17 4 2-3 10 85-95 Winter CB) 2 4 pt. 6-10 14-17 6-8 1 6 2 4 10-13 70-75

Tomatoes (A)* 10-15 pt. 6-10 6-10 8-10 1-2 10-13 85-90 (ripe) 4-8 (preen)

Turnip (B)* 5-6 m. 4-7 4-7 4 8-12 0 90-95

The letters against each vegetable suggest the probable value of the crops to the home gardener : (A) Indicates crops which should be in every home garden. (B) Indicates crops requiring more space and greater attention to pest control, o r useful alternatives to certain crop in (A). The larger garden could well contain a selection of these. (C) Indicates crops which should not be planted to the exclusion of crops in groups (A) and (B).

Successive sowings should be made. 2 Topped.

Deep freezing of vegetables: preparation for freezing Vegetable Blanching time Preparation for freezing

paragus 2 4 mins As asparagus loses flavor and becomes tough rapidly after picking, it is advisable to freeze it as soon as possible after harvest. Trim the stalks. use only the tender portion. Wash well, blanch, cool quickly, drain, pack and freeze.

- -

ans 3 mins Select tender beans, stringless are best. Wash and prepare as for cooking. Blanch drain, and cool quickly, pack and freeze.

Broccoli 3 4 inins Wash thoroughly. Trim off large leaves and thick stem buds. Cut the heads into serving-size pleces. Cut the stalks if they are more than 10 rnm thick. Blanch, cool quickly, then drain, pack and freeze.

Brussels sprouts 4-5 mins Trim off the outer leaves. Wash very well, blanch, cool quickly, drain and pack.

Carrots 4-6 mins Wash and scrape well. Prepare as for cooking. If the carrots are very small they may be left whole. Blanch, cool quickly, drain and pack.

Cauliflowers 4-5 mins Wash very well and break into serving-size pieces. Blanch, cool quickly, drain and ~ a c k .

Celery 3 mins Use crisp tender celery. Frozen celery can only be used in cooked dishes. Trim and string the celery. Cut it into 25 mm lengths, blanch cool, quickly, drain and pack.

Corn on the cob 6-9 mins Choose slightly immature yellow corn. Husk and de-silk. Blanch, cool quickly and wrap each cob separately, then freeze.

Corn off the cob 5 mins Husk and de-silk the cobs, blanch and chill thoroughly, Cut the corn from the cob and pack into suitable containers.

Kohl rabi 1 5 2 mins Choose young small bulbs 50 to 75 mm in diameter. Cut off the tops. Wash, peel and dice. Blanch, cool, quickly drain and pack.

Mixed vegetables for JP

Prepare each vegetable separately, use the correct blanching time for each, then cool thoroughly and mix together. Pack and freeze.

ushrooms 1. Prepare as needed. Slice large mushrooms, Saute until tender in a small amount of butter. Allow to cool, pack sufficient for one meal in each container and freeze. 2. Blanch for 2-4 minutes in 1 litre of water and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Cool quickly, drain and pack.

Onions Peel and slice or chop the onions but do not blanch them. Pack in small packets just sufficient for one dish. These chopped onions are very useful to have on hand, and will keep well for two months.

Parsley Chop the washed, well drained parsley very finely. Place in small ice cube trays and cover with cold water ; freeze. When quite frozen, tip from trays and pack in plastic bags until needed. Parsley treated in this manner keeps well and is ready for use at any time.

Parsnips 2-3 mins Scrub the parsnips well, remove the tops and peel. Cut into 10 mrn slices or dice Blanch, cool quickly, drain and pack.

Peas Jrl min Shell the peas, sort and remove old or split peas. Wash and drain then blanch, coolquickly and pack into containers just sufficient for one meal.

Peppers-green or red Halves 3 4 mins 1st method. Wash well and, if required for stuffing and baking, cut the peppers in Slices 2-3 mins. half, remove the cap and seeds. Rinse to remove loose seeds. Blanch the halves for

3-4 minutes then pack in bags when quite cool. 2nd method. Prepare as above but cut the peppers in slices suitable for stews, casseroles or frying. Blanch and pack as required. 3rd method. A few peppers may be sliced and packed without blanching into containers and frozen. Slices prepared in this manner are used for garnishing dishes or serving with salads.

Potatoes Must be cooked before freezing. French fried potatoes are most suitable. Peel the potatoes and cut as desired. Scald for 1-2 minutes then drain and fry light brown. When cold, pack and freeze.

Pumpkins Must be cooked before freezing. Prepare, cook and mash in the usual way. Cool completely, pack in rigid containers allowing 10 mm head space for expansion. Sufficient for one meal to each container. Freeze at once.

Sweet potatoes Wash the sweet potatoes. Cook until just tender in water or steam. Cool and peel. Dip in solution of lemon juice and water. (150 rnrn of lemon juice to 1 litre of water). This prevents darkening. Lift out, mash and mix in 2 tablespoons of orange or lemon juice to each 1 litre of mashed potatoes. Pack in rigid containers sufficient for one meal in each container and freeze.

Vegetables Blanching time Preparation for freezing ! Tomatoes Tomatoes may be frozen only when cooked. Puree them in the usual manner. Pack

sufficient for one meal in rigid containers and freeze. Tomatoes may also be cooked and frozen whole. Wash the tomatoes, scald and remove the skins. Place the prepared tomatoes in a pan with a small amount of water. Simmer gently until they are just soft. Allow to stand until they are quite cold. Pack the tomatoes in rigid containers, Cover with with their own juice. Leave 25 mm head space for expansion. Freeze.

Tomato juice Wash tomatoes, cut up roughly and place in a pan. Simmer until quite soft. Press through a fine sieve. Allow to become quite cold, pour into containers, leaving 25 mm head space and freeze. To serve. Allow to thaw slowly in the refrigerator. i When liquid, add sugar, salt, lemon and mint to taste.

Was11 and prepare vegetables as for rzornzal cooAirlg. After blarlchirzg for the requireti time plunge the vege- tables into iced water immediately.

After draining, pack required quantity into a plastic Before placing the bag in the freezer, label the bag bag and tie. with date o f packaging.