page 4 page 3 reviving the craft of calico...
TRANSCRIPT
Karanvir Gupta
Yes, it is that time of the year again whichbrings in love all around. Some people discovertheir love, some find their lost love and some arestill looking for it. Irrespective of which phasewe are in, love has all of us stuck into the beau-tiful feeling at some point of our lives. They saywith changing times, everything changes.Situations change, people change and our prior-ities change too. True! But I believe how a per-son feels when he or she is loved by somebodydoesn't change at all.
While the younger generation has more"exposure" in the field of love, I feel bad for the
older generation forwhom the love wasalways a by-product ofa relationship. For
them relationship was seldom a product of love.It might have sounded alright years ago but notanymore. This generation always have beenburdened with responsibilities and duties and inthe process it could never let them make lovetheir priority. Office, Kids, Social, Office Trips,PTAs, Building things from the scratch, etc.Where was love in the list? Ormaybe they were not wired toinclude that in the list.
However with the timepassing by, love may or maynot have bloomed, com-plaints definitely start brew-ing. Men start feeling thatthey are not their women'spriority anymore. They startcomparing them to the otherrelatives who are more than afamily now. They think thingsare not being told anymore tothem. Men being men behave irrationally orlet's say start feeling insecure. Women on theother hand by now expect their men to be quiteunderstanding of the situation. After all if in allthese years, they say, love couldn't blossom, amisunderstanding is not what she looks forward
to.So under such a scenario, where will love
grow? Or will it ever grow? They need to under-stand that with time, the husband and wife are ateam and both are on the same side of the line.There needs to be understanding in taciturnity.While I was thinking about writing this article, Ichanced upon a video by British Airways India -Go further to get closer. And I almost instantlythought of mentioning it in this piece.
Yes, if we all could understand what ourpartners have done for us, it will be a greatepiphany in our lives - of feeling called love. It'sabsolutely fine to argue, debate but at the end ofdebate never forget to go to bed without cajol-ing. Hold the hands of your partner and givehim/her the belief that we are one. Give each ashoulder to cry and let the vent out and youwon't be able to stop falling in love with eachother. As per my understanding of this genera-tion, it is more for men to understand that loveneeds to be nurtured. Or else they will be leftwith partners who do things for them out ofduty and not out of love, which shall hurt andeven more!
We all need to put in someextra effort and breathe more.Those small little gestureswhich we feel are not soimportant can actually make awhole lot of difference.Because as we all grow up, weneed more of an emotionalcompanionship instead of aphysical companionship.Sooner we all realise, better itwould be. Being an incorrigi-
ble believer of love, I have beenwriting on this day for last few years.
This year I thought, let us write a message forour oldies. Now as you think for a while, gosearch for the video I mentioned and watch it.May be some love sprouts! Wishing all couplesout there a very Happy Valentine's Day.
Avanti Sopory
On the morning of 14th February,reporters were flashing pictures ofcupid's arrows lying scattered andimpaled all around the internationalborder. The security officers wereshocked to see the plight and orderedenquiry; but just then an officer from theenemy country looked up at the azureskies and said - Mr. Angel, better lucknext time. Love and humanity is a rarecommodity on enemy ground.
That's true. Doesn't the red heart shaped arrow ofthe Angel mean love, compassion and humanity? Thenwhat stopped St Valentine from spreading his messageon the frontiers of two rival countries?
St Valentine's Day, as we know it more popularlyas Valentine's Day was first celebrated in England andnow in most parts of the world as a day when loversexpress their love for each other. It came into promi-nence when Saint Valentine was nursing and perform-ing the wedding of Christian soldiers who were perse-cuted by the ruling Romans. Since that the day gainedliturgical importance. The past misunderstandings aredug deep down and renewed love and compassion isspread. It is a celebration of life and everything that hasa longing heart, because love is a universal language.
Since the 18th century, 14th February echoes loveacross all nations, communities, creed and cultures.And India which was an emerging country in the ear-ly 1990's aggressively acquired this imported date andsoon Valentine's Day was added to our list of celebra-
tions. A burgeoning economy and democracy, theyounger generation in India rapidly took to celebrat-ing Valentine's Day. And of course, after the impact-ful years of British Empire, we like everything "Vilay-ati". So Valentine's Day was a delayed parting gift fromthe erstwhile kingdom.
Gifts, cakes, curios, confectioneries, greeting cardsand flowers are exchanged as an expression of love.After all who doesn't like giving and receiving gifts?They are far better than bombs, drugs, WMD's, nuclearthreats, suicide attacks and violence.
In all this helter-skelter of the "in-thing" of celebrat-ing Valentine's Day in India, there were many peoplewho were at unrest; for both good and bad reasons.There were groups who saw the Valentine's Day cel-ebration as a threat to the rich, ethnic culture of Indiaand some saw the celebration as an opportunity forbusiness and expansion.
Since the early 1990's when the Indian economyopened up, there was a flood gate of internationaljob avenues for young Indians. They travelled theworld and returned with a truck load of experienceand exposure. Around the same time the advent ofcable television and the introduction to foreign chan-nels and news, made the resident Indian aware aboutmany "phoren" things, which also included theValentine's Day. The media got rolling and soonValentine's Day celebrations coloured India in its sig-nature red colour.
Simultaneously the hawk eyed business man sawan opportunity in the Valentine's Day celebration. Tillyesteryears what was just a small business set -up,had overnight grown into a big industry of makingValentine cards, photo frames, personalized gifts,mugs with messages, home décor and curios. Besidesthese the businesses' of flowers, cakes, Jewelleries,
accessories has also grown by leaps and bounds in thelast two decades. In current times, the gear-up to theday happens a month in advance through the com-mercials played on television, radio, internet, bill-boards, metro stations, bus kiosks, public transport,OOH's (Out Of Home) and whatever medium themarketer can think of. Freebies, surprise parties andgifts for the partners are some of the other waysthrough which the consumer can be lured into buy-ing. This is all a commercial set-up where the primarymotive is to make money. The marketing team, saleteam, idea team and the creative team together cre-ate the eyeballs for the Valentine's Day product. Thesoldiers on the enemy borders aren't love-stuck;because the industry does not see any monetary ben-efit there.
While the industry is busy creating noise and mak-ing money around the Valentine's Day, certain socialand political groups, who claim to believe in Indianculture, think that this celebration is "alien" to Indiaand celebrating love in public is against the Indianculture. They fear the loss of Indian ethicality and areantagonistic of Western culture and social influences.To them celebrating Valentine's Day means trudgingover our family values, respect and decency.
Lest we forget, even India has its version of cupidGods - Kama and Rati who long ago instilled a feel-ing of love and compassion. In coming ages India hadimmortal love stories of Heer-Ranjha, Shreen-Farhad, Sohni-Mahiwal which overwhelmed theyouth. The magic was further spread deep into thecorners of India through the mushy Bollywoodmovies, so love and romanceis not a new thing for Indians.In fact the world considersIndia to be the haven of lovelegends, spirituality and self-actualization. But whatbaffles is why are we hooked to Valentine's Day as theonly day of love? Or is it because it comes from theWest? Love what you own and own what you love.
There is truth in the fact that Valentine's Day cel-ebration has seeped deep into us. Like other impor-tant dates, this day too has blocked its permanentplace on our calendars. But the questions that stillremain unanswered are:-
* Is the rise in the celebration all a marketinggame-plan?
* Are there interested business lobbies working tomake it this popular?
* Since times immemorial India has had foreigninfluences which have got blended so well, then whydo we still feel insecure about our ethnicity.
* If we shun the celebration, will we not be alien-ating ourselves from the larger world?
The answers to these questions may still be in thedark but there is a larger question. Sometimes in therush to ape the foreign cultures, we often forget orignore many of our own festivals and events. Agreedthat we are global citizens and open to all cuisines,cultures and beliefs of the world, but this magnanim-ity should not come at the cost of losing our own orig-inality. Valentine's Day, La Tomatina, Carnivals ofworld and Ice festivals of the world are welcomed butIndia should not forget its own identity.
Ravi Kumar
The Jammu region of J&K has a very rich traditionof crafts and artisan production. All districts of theregion are equally efficient in the production ofdifferent crafts. Handicrafts are the substantial sourceof livelihood for the people of these areas. These artsand crafts showcase the creativity of the peopleproducing them. Basically, the artisanal productionwas the only form of industrial production until themill industries were established.
Samba, a small town about 40 kms from Jammu, onJammu Pathankot highway is a well known centre of Calicoprinting also known as Block Printing. Printing in vegetablecolour with help of wooden blocks on hand woven cottoncloth is being used as cool, comfortable, floor/bed coveringsand are in great demand. Prints on bed sheets, quilt covers,table linen, cushion covers etc are made with the help ofdesigned blocks with vegetable colors.
Handicrafts are the matchless appearance of our societyand way of life. As the Handicrafts of a region represent, per-haps, the oldest tradition of a living culture, the diversity ofJammu region's cultural tradition is aptly reflected in thetradition of handicrafts it produces.
Calico Printing enjoys a wide popularity. Masnads andJamas, handblocked and printed by artisans of the area havebeen traditionally in great demand. The prints with theirattractive floral and geometric colourful designs and fast col-ors have a ready market within the state and outside. Thecraft which passed through a phase of decline years immedi-ately following partition has now been revived and thedemand has again started picking up. Training centres set upby the Department of Handicrafts in district Samba are help-ing in providing additional skilled hands and in widening ofthe base of the craft with new designs being introducedalongside of traditional ones at the centres.
Samba has been the best known centre for hand printedtextiles. It is popularly called as Chhintawala Shehar (city ofprinting). In olden ages, Samba was famous for its calicoprinting, mostly on handwoven cotton sheets, in soothingvegetables hues at a time when the printing industry in manyother parts of India had not developed. Indigenous dyesused in Calico printing were Majith (Indian Red), Navtati(red), Haldi (Yellow) and Neel (Blue). Special Sonahri (gold-en) and Rupehri (silver) printing was also done at Samba byexpert hands stepped in long years ago using real silver andgold leaves.
In hand block printing, the design is first drawn on wood
using a sharp needle and then the desired design is carvedusing the chisel, hammer, file, nails etc. The printing involveslaying the cloth/fabric, which is to be printed, on flat tablesand impressions are made using the beautifully carvedblocks. In case of direct printing, the block is dipped in thecoloured dye and impressions are made. Traditionally naturaland vegetable sources were used for dyes. But with the adventof synthetic dyes, things have changed, not necessarily forgood. However the ease of usage and the availability of syn-thetic dyes have replaced the vegetable dye in many cases.
There is an interesting story recorded by D. N. Saraf in hisbook ''Arts and Crafts, Jammu and Kashmir: Land, People,Culture'', about the traditional chhimbas, sheet printers ofSamba town, who were deft craftsmen. It is said thatMaharaja Ranjit Singh wanted to start a textile printingindustry in Amritsar, then the capital of Sikh Kingdom.When he approached some of master printers of Samba toshift to Amristar they were reluctant: one of the reasons (orperhaps excuse) they advanced was that if they were to moveto Amritsar the pond called Bann, in their town, should alsobe taken to Amritsar as fastness of the colors of Sambaprints, they held was due to the quality of water. Craftsmenhave generally been stay-at-home people and thus managedto remain in Samba and carry on the industry.
Handicraft activities are playing its important role in theupliftment of weaker sections of rural economy of the stateand also serve as tourism resource. In order to keep alive theart of Calico printing, the Department of Handicraft, J&KGovernment has set up training centres where trainedinstructors have been providing training to the youth so thatthey can connect themselves with the oldest handicraft of thearea and to earn their livelihood.
The Department is providing wooden blocks fromFirozabad (Uttar Pradesh) as they are famous for its qualitywith the approved designs from the Design Institute. Mainlyfive colors including black, blue, red, green and yellow arebeing used in printing.
The Department of Handicrafts is playing a importantrole in skill enhancement, design & printing consultancy,financial support, artisan welfare measures and organizationof Expo, craft bazaars etc.
Women especially girls undergoing training at the centreshave been enjoying learning the old skill of Calico printingwhich has its name since long. Right from preparing colorsand till the final printing of designs with the help of woodenblocks, they seem very confident of carrying forward the oldtradition of Samba.
SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2016 INTERNET EDITION : www.dailyexcelsior.com/magazineNNoott uuppttoo eexxppeeccttaattiioonnss..........PPaaggee 44 TTeemmppllee BBeellllss.....Page 3
Reviving the craft of Calico Printing
Cultural or Marketing Crossroads
Valentine’s Day Special
Wooden blocks used for printingTrainees learning art of Calico Printing
GO FURTHER TO GET CLOSER
Yes, if we allcould understandwhat our partnershave done for us,it will be a greatepiphany in ourlives - of feeling
called love.