ogfi session xii
TRANSCRIPT
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
1/56
OGFI
SESSION XII
INTERNATIONAL FASHION CENTRES
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
2/56
What well cover..
Major fashion capitals ofthe world
Specialtiesand the creators
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
3/56
Five 5 centresare:
1. Paris
2. Milan3. London
4. Tokyo5. New York
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
4/56
Fashion centres emerged because of
concentrations of
Resources
Supplies
Skilled labour
Creativity
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
5/56
o Designers are influenced by other
designers and vice versa
many creative people gravitate to
major creative centres
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
6/56
PARIS
Required resourcesare available
Creative atmosphere
Govt. supportand encouragement
Tremendous cooperation among designers, mills
and auxiliary : shoe,hat, fur,trimmings, findings
and embroidery industries they are ready to
make very very small quantities
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
7/56
PARIS
Personalised service shoes, buttons, laces, etc.
Q. Is Paris the top fashion capital in the world?
1960s strong trend towards youthful casual
styling
Emergence ofprt--porter
Socio-economic stability
Couture waspractically out of business
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
8/56
PARIS
Fashion hub presence ofall main fashion offices
*many famous fashion designersarent French!
(Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, etc.)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
9/56
THE COUTURE
fine custom dressmaking made to measure as
per individual client
Today, couture means original (pattern + fabric)
Couturier Vs. Couturiere
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
10/56
Businessis called Maison (HOUSE)
Salon an elegantshowroom where clients can
see the collection and order. Leadtime usually
several weeks and takes 2 to 3 fittings
THE COUTURE
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
11/56
haute couture
high dressmaking
Hi-fashion (U.S.A.)
highest quality fabric and workmanship
Only those who are in the selective couture
creation list ofF
d
rationFranaise de la
Couture
are considered members ofthe haute couture
# Couturier membership Dept. of Industry
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
12/56
Fdration Franaise de la Couture has 3 branch
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne for
promotion and protection of couture. To be a member, one
should have at least 1 atelier in Paris with minimum 15 staff
Chambre Syndicale de Prt--Porter association
of RTW branches of couture + best of Prt--Porter
Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine
association of menswear industries ofthe couture
haute couture
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
13/56
French Designers
YSL king of couture major influence
trendsetter restrained,sophisticated good
sense oftiming
Hubert de Givency,Pierre Cardin, EmanuelUngaro, Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Marc
Bohan(Dior), Andr Courrges, Carven, Grs (Alix
Grs),Guy Laroche, Hanae Mori, Jean Partou,
Jean-Louis Scherrer,Lanvin, Lecoanet-Hemant,Louis Feraud,Nina Ricci, Per Spook, Philippe Venet,
Pierre Balmain, Ted Lapidus, Torrent
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
14/56
French Designers
Ateliers workshop
Boutique retail shops for RTW & accessories
# large firms may have separate designer for
couture and Prt--Porter
(1)flou (dressmaking),
(2)tailleur (tailoring for suits & coats)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
15/56
Frenchterms
large houses modelistes
toile sample garment
premier datelier production manger or chief
technician
midinettes saleswoman/seamstress
apprentices
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
16/56
Governmentsupport
French T.V. free exposure
Funding for overseasshowing of couture
Publicity helps generate exports + licensing
business (couturiers export 55% oftheir
production)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
17/56
Licensing
Perfumes + stars
Diversification
Example
Pierre Cardin 400 licenses menswear, womens
wear, kids wear, from UG to coats,hatsto shoes,
swimsuitsto skiwear,accessories,jewellery,
eyeglasses,sheetsand towels, ceramics, furniture,
and even bicycle!!
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
18/56
Licensing
Licensing popular with couture as well as
RTW
Promotion w/o exposure to financial risks
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
19/56
Future of couture
Shiftin economic priorities
Today, couture shares 4000 private clients
worldwide!?
Couture usually loses money but getshuge publicity
RTW + licensing bringsin the footfalls & the moolah
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
20/56
Prt--Porter (RTW)
gets mostattention today
prt designershave become the innovators
their showsare earlier than couture showings
Karl Lagerfeld star of Prt--Porter' (Chanel, Fendi)
YSL Rive Gauche RTW collection (left bank of
river Seine)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
21/56
Prt--Porter (RTW)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
22/56
Prt--Porter' (RTW)
Prt designers Sonia Rykiel,Kenzo, Jean-Charles
de Castelbajac, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler,
Chantal Thomass, Anne-Marie Beretta,Jean-Paul
Gaultier, and Angelo Tarlazzi
Prt designersare further knocked off
Ton-Sur-Ton : world famous less expensive
sportswear
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
23/56
Fashion center in Paris
Avenue Montaigne & Fauborg Saint-Honor :
center ofsalon, boutique and ateliers
Sentier district of Paris center of Prt--Porter'
manufacturing
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
24/56
Fashion center in Paris
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
25/56
Fashion center in Paris
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
26/56
MILAN
Fashion industry < Paris fashion
Impact on international fashion has grown
significantly
1940 only 30 manufacturers ofapparel
Almosttotal shift from custom made RTW
fashion is 2nd biggest industry after tourism
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
27/56
MILAN
Italian look distinct richness or casual elegance
Wool,silk, leather enriched by colour and texture
combinations
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
28/56
MILAN
Reasons for success
Global outlook,innovative products, co-operation
among supply chain components
North-Central region around Milan : 80% prodn
Other noted fashion cities Rome and Florence
Milan is center for moda pronta (RTW)
Milano Collezioni organised by Italian Fashion
Industry Association
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
29/56
MILAN
Famous designers
Armani, Gianfranco Ferre, Gianni Versace,
Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia), Tai & Rosita Missoni,
Laura Biagiotti, Luciano Soprano, Enrico Coveri
Prominent manufacturers
Fendi Sisters, UCB (3000 Stores), Sportmax,
Complice, Jenny,Byblos,Ferragamo, Trussardi
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
30/56
MILAN
MIPEL leather goods fair
IDEACOMO fabric fair
Ideabiella mens fabric fair
Centro Mode @ Florence runspitti filati (yarnsand
knits)
Pitti Uomo tailored mens clothing
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
31/56
MILAN
Pitti Bimbo childrens clothing
Rome center of Italian couture
Most couturiershave RTW lines
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
32/56
MILAN
Italian fashion rose to prominence due to export
Started with leather goods knits everything!!
Today Italysspecialty jackets, coats,tailored
garments
Italy top 3 textile and apparel exporter
Buyers of Italian fashion Germany, France
followed by U.S.A.
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
33/56
LONDON
Couture has virtually disappeared
Resurgence of swinging London of 1960s
Manufacturing hasspread all over UK
Young designer from all over the world study at
UKs famousart colleges they stay back to start
on their own or work for some other designer
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
34/56
LONDON
Top Designers
Betty Jackson, Katharine Hamnett,Wendy,
Dagworthy,Jasper Conran,Nigel Preston, Maxfield
Parrish,Body Map, John McIntyre, Jean Muir,
Zandra Rhodes, Caroline Charles
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
35/56
LONDON
UK hasa long tradition of clothing like riding
wear,tweedjackets,trench coats, cardigans from
Burberry & Jaegar
Menswear Savile Row tailors
Prince Charles Gieves & Hawkes, #1 Savile Row
New mens designers Paul Smith, Charlie Allen,
Roger Dak
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
36/56
LONDON
Savile Row gives 3 fits
1. Traditional, form fitting
2. Squarish, conservative
3. Slim,trendy, continental fit
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
37/56
TOKYO
5th fashion capital
Japanese women until WW II Kimono
1950s & 60s women withjobs became eager for
western outfits (practicality)
Japanese apparel industry made line-for-line copies
of western fashion
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
38/56
TOKYO
1970s Kenzo Takada & Hanae Mori
studios/showsin Paris
Japanese designs unusual shapes,sombre colour
combo,asymmetrical balance,use of natural fibers
Japan is textile capital ofthe world
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
39/56
TOKYO
Top Designers
Issey Miyake, Kansai Yamamoto, Yohji Yamamoto,
Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garon)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
40/56
TOKYO
RENOWN
Renown isthe largest manufacturer in Japan, 3rd
largestin the world. Levi Straussisthe largest
followed by Blue Bell
Ithas Japanese manufacturing rights for over 40
international brands (Perry Ellis, Norma Kamali,
etc.)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
41/56
EUROPE
Germany
Decentralised
Berlin, Munich, Krefeld and Dsseldorf major
production center
Publication Hamburg
Accurate and dependable technical production
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
42/56
EUROPE
Germany
Designers ESCADA, MONDI
Huge fashion fairsin Dsseldorf, Munichand
Cologne
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
43/56
EUROPE
Spain
Govt. subsidised alta costura (haute couture)
Madrid H.Q. of womensand kids RTW
association
Leather products, moderate price knitwear
Massproduce for French companies
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
44/56
EUROPE
Scandinavia
Denmark more conservative apparel
Sweden, Finland, Norway more youthful styling
Copenhagen Scandinavian Clothing Council
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
45/56
EUROPE
Eastern Europe
Factoriesin Poland, Yugoslavia, Hungary and
Romaniaproduce for companies of France,
Germany and UK
Yugoslaviaalso triesto promote its own fashioninternationally
RUSSIA DOM MODELE
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
46/56
Israel
Production isspread in and around Tel Aviv
Textile/apparel = 12% ofindustrial output
Exports mostly to UK, DE, FR and Denmark
Well known for its leather wear
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
47/56
Latin America
Have important raw material
Large supply of low-cost labour
Govt. supports manufacturing and exportsto
North American countries
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
48/56
The Orient
H.K. known for fast, low cost, made-to-measure
dress making and tailoring
Many western manufacturershave factoriesin
Orient or they have an agent for monitoring
production/quality
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
49/56
Canada
Fashion is 4th largest employer
Montreal isthe main center of garmentindustry
Toronto 2nd important followed by Winnipeg and
Vancouver
Produces full range ofproducts cheapto veryexpensive
Outwear > furs > leather goods > childrens wear
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
50/56
Canada
Top Designers
Alfred Sung,Wayne Clark, Leo Chevalier, Harry
Parnass & Nicola Pelly (Parachute), Margaret
Godfrey, Jean-Claude Poitras, Robert Chernin,
Marilyn Brooks And John Warden
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
51/56
New York
American RTWis largestand most competitive
Uses mostinnovative marketing methods
N.Y. garments center because suppliesand
skilled labour isavailable
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
52/56
New York
7th Avenue district
Origin of most American fashion
6000 garment firms
2/3rd ofall American made womens + kids clothesare
either designed or made here
Plushshowroomsin front, cluttered design room@back
No. of large firmshave been continuously increasing
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
53/56
New York
Top Designers
Calvin Klein, Geoffrey Beene, Norma Kamali,Ralph Lauren
LizC
laiborne mostsuccessfully publicly tradedcorporation in fashion industry
Bill Blass, Adolfo, Louis Dell Olio for Anne Klein,Kasper,
Mary Mc.Fadden, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera,
Donna Karan, Adrienne Vittadini, Zoran, Shamask,
Michael Kors, Tarquin
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
54/56
New York
Mainstay of USA RTW + sportswear
N.Y.C. > L.A. > Chicago > Philadelphia > Boston >
Dallas
N.Y. > Pennsylvania > New Jersey > Massachusetts
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
55/56
California
2/3rd firmsare located in L.A.
LEVI STRAUSS San Francisco
California designer mostinnovative in sportswear
and swimwear
Chicago & Rochester menswear
Seattle menswear (Generra, Union Bay)
-
8/8/2019 OGFI Session XII
56/56
California
Philadelphia Kidswear, ladies dresses
Dallas moderate price sportswear
St. Louis junior dresses
Miami resort wear
Boston outerwear