NUNWAN, PAHALGAM, JAMMU & KASHMIR

PAHALGAM SANASAR

BHADERWAH SHEY (LADAKH)

AFTER ACTION REPORT ON ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE SR. NO. 35

AND JOINT EXPEDITION TO MOUNT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) & MOUNT STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR) AT LEH (LADAKH)

Tel FAX: 01936-243129 Mob: 9419045194, 9906967820

JAWAHAR INSTITUTE OF MOUNTAINEERING & WINTER SPORTS, NUNWAN, PAHALGAM JAMMU-KASHMIR-192126

JIM/75/TGC/2011-12/ 01Dec 2013 Dte of AF Adventure Air Headquarters (WB) RCPO Building, Safdarjung Road New Delhi -110003

AFTER ACTION REPORT ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE SR. NO. 35 & JOINT EXPEDITION TO MOUNT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) & MOUNT STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR)

FOR INDIAN AIR FORCE (IAF), SDRF- J&K, PRIVATE STUDENTS & STAFF/INSTRUCTORS OF JIM & WS FROM 01 SEPT 2013 TO 26 SEPT 2013

Sir, 1. A copy of after action report on Advance Mountaineering Course serial No. 35

and Joint Expedition to Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) & Mount Stok Kangri (6135mtr)

conducted by this Institute for Indian Air Force personnel, SDRF personnel –J&K,

private students from different states of India and staff & Instructors of JIM & WS w.e.f

01 Sept 2013 to 26 Sept 2013 at Pahalgam & Leh is enclosed herewith for your

information and necessary action please. 2. Kindly ack. Yours Sincerely Sd/- (Virinder Singh) Colonel Principal (JIM & WS) Encl: As stated Copy to: 1. Addl. Director General of Police, HG/CD/SDRF, Jammu-J&K

2. Joint Secretary (G/Air), D (HMI), R.No. 225 F, South Block Ministry of Defence, New Delhi-11

3. Shri. Atal Dulloo, IAS, Commissioner/ Secretary Tourism, Govt. of J&K, Civil Secretariat Srinagar –J&K-190009 4. DFA, Defence Finance, Room No. 11-B, South Block, New Delhi-11

5. Institute Library.

COURSE REPORT

ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE SR. NO. 35 & JOINT EXPEDITION TO MOUNT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) & MOUNT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR)

FOR INDIAN AIR FORCE (IAF), SDRF –J&K, PRIVATE STUDENTS AND STAFF/ INSTRUCTORS OF JIM & WS

INSTITUTE: JAWAHAR INSTITUTE OF MOUNTAINEERING & WINTER SPORTS (JIM & WS) PAHALGAM

VENUE: PAHALGAM / LEH

REPORT ON: ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE AND JOINT EXPEDITION TO MT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) & STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR)

COURSE SERIAL NO: AMC- 35

DURATION OF COURSE: 01 SEPT 2013 to 26 SEPT 2013 (26 Days)

GENERAL 1. Jawahar Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports (JIM & WS) is a joint

venture between Ministry of Defence, Government of India and Department of Tourism

Govt. of J&K and is one of the four national Institutes in the country which imparts

training in adventure activities. Hon’ble Raksha Mantri is the president and Chief

Minister of J&K state is the vice president of the Institute. The Institute with it’s

headquarter at Nunwan, Pahalgam , has three sub centres at Bhaderwah (Doda),

Sanasar (near Patnitop), Shey (Leh) and one adhoc sub centre at Gulmarg for skiing

courses. The superintendence, direction and control of the affairs of the Institute vest in

the executive council of the Institute. Over the last 30 years the Institute has excelled in

different adventure activities like Mountaineering, Snow Skiing, Paragliding, Search &

Rescue, Mountain Expeditions, Water Rafting, short term Special Adventure Courses

and Mountain & Tourist Guide courses.

INTRODUCTION

2. 12 Indian Air Force Personnel, 31 SDRF –J&K personnel 10 staff & Instructors of

JIM & WS 43 private students from different parts of the country reported to

Headquarter, JIM & WS, Pahalgam on 31 Aug 2013 evening to attend Advance

Mountaineering Course serial No. 35. The students were divided in two groups 52

students for Expedition to Mt. Stok Kangri and another group of 44 students for

expedition to Mt. Golap Kangri.

In the advance course the Air Force personnel, SDRF personnel, staff &

Instructors of JIM & WS and private students from different colleges, universities,

corporate world etc showed active interest and all of them volunteered in the leading

team. They ensured each and every member of the team reach the summit thus

exemplifying their contribution in the success of this expedition.

2

Scheduled training of these 96 members started w.e.f 01 Sept 13 morning. Two

students were reverted back on medical grounds. Rest All 94 students completed the

training with desired levels of standard. Nominal roll of students with grading is

enclosed as Appendix “A”.

GROUP PHOTOGRAPH WITH COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS

AIM 3. (a) To impart theoretical and practical training on all aspects of Mountainous terrain

and High Altitude including advance techniques of rock and ice craft to students.

(b) To train the students to survive in mountains / survival camps and to take part in

expeditions in mountainous terrain of India & abroad.

(c) To plan, execute and climb a 20,000 ft & above peak to experience the

difficulties faced during an Expedition.

(d) To become an efficient tourist guide/group leader in an expedition team.

STANDARDS TO BE ACHIEVED 4. The competence levels expected from students upon completion of the course

are as follows:-

(a) Students should be able to effectively utilize technical skills during expeditions in

all kinds of ranges in India and abroad.

(b) Students should be able to effectively form part of team as an active member

and lead climber during missions and Expeditions in high altitude area.

3

OBJECTIVES 5. (a) Carryout rescue mission in any eventuality in mountains, at accidental sites and

during natural calamities and carryout Expeditions in all kinds of ranges in India

and abroad.

(b) Impart advance training on technical aspects of mountaineering.

(c) Hone mountaineering skills of students.

(d) Create environment awareness amongst the youth.

(e) Promote adventure activities in the state.

OPENING ADDRESS 6. Opening address was given on the first day by Col Virinder Singh, Principal,

JIM & WS, Students were introduced to well known history of the esteemed national

Institute JIM & WS. They were explained about expectations from them, administration

of the Institute and safety and security to be observed around the camp. Students were

told the duration of the course, test and grading system as well as the phases of course

going to be conducted in training area of the Institute.

OPENING ADDRESS BY COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS

4

CONDUCT OF TRAINING 7. The students were trained in Acclimatization walk, Endurance run, Introduction to

mountaineering equipments, Rope knots, rock climbing, Rappelling, Treks to different

picturesque and historical places around the area, Tent pitching, Tyrolean traverse,

River crossing, Ice craft , Crevasse rescue, casualty evacuation, Rope fixing, base

making and taking part in Expedition to 6000 mtrs peak.

8. Training for the students started with advance techniques of rock craft & ice craft

for initial one week at Pahalgam followed by move to Leh (Ladakh) where ten more

days of rock craft training was provided. This was followed by move to Stok

village(Ladakh) followed by Stok base camp on the culmination of which the teams

Summitted Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) and Mt. Stok Kangri (6135 mtr) as a routine part

of Advance Mountaineering Course to climb a peak. A copy of training programme is

enclosed as Appendix “B”. PHYSICAL EXERCISE 9. Given the location of the headquarter, JIM & WS, Pahalgam being at approx

6,800 ft and the location of Leh at 11500 ft, initial period was utilized for acquiring

physical fitness and mental robustness. Acclimatization marches of 1.5 to 3 kms around

the places were conducted during first 2 days which was accompanied by mountain

physical training. Students were made to run for long distances (7-8kms) at one stretch

to increase their endurance. At the end of this schedule, students achieved the desired

standards of fitness required to survive in hilly terrain.

ACCLIMITIZATION WALK MORNING PHYSICAL TRAINING

5

TECHNICAL TRAINING

10. Training was provided in advance skills of rock craft ,administration in mountain

terrain & introduction and use of mountaineering equipment. At the culmination of this

training, students could identify and narrate the uses of mountaineering equipments and

its skillful application in mountainous area. Details of rock craft and other adventure

activities conducted are as follows:

(a) ROCK CRAFT

48 periods were allotted to impart instructions in advance skills of mountaineering

including pitch climbing, fixed rope climbing and rappelling. The students were exposed

to various types of rock surfaces around Pahalgam and at Shey (Leh).

RAPPELLING ROCK CLIMBING

(b) ICE CRAFT

60 periods were allotted to impart instructions in advance skills of ice craft including

base making, Cramponing, crevasse crossing and rescue, rope fixing ice wall climbing,

in Glaciated terrains. In the expedition, the technical ice craft training was adequately

carried out simultaneously in the snow field below the summit and during the

acclimatization march at the base camp.

ICE CRAFT TRAINING

6

(c) HIGH ALTITUDE TREK Students were trained in tough high altitude trekking. They got familiarized with the

equipment needed while going on high altitude treks. They carried backpack of 23 kgs

each containing all the necessary equipment and clothing gear required to setup

survival camp in high altitude area.

TREK TO STOK VILLAGE TREK TO SHEY GUMPA

(d) LECTURE / PRESENTATIONS

The following aspects of adventure activities and related subjects were covered in great

details in the form of lecture cum Power point presentations and movies concerning

mountaineering as mentioned below:

(i) Mountain Terminology

(ii) Glacier & Crevasse rescue

(iii) High altitude illnesses and cold injuries

(iv) Avalanche rescue

(v) Expedition planning

CAPT P K SINGH, MEDICAL OFFICER AND INSTRUCTORS DELIVERING LECTURES

7

(e) ENDURANCE RUN

Team practiced running for long distance with backpack load of 10 -12 kgs which

helped them to attain the desired standards of physical endurance required during

rescue operations. Students showed marked improvement in endurance and they

excelled in the final endurance run of 8.5 kms taken by the Institute Umar Manzoor a

private students from Pulwama –J&K secured the first position in boys and Saakshi Chauhan a private girl student from New Delhi secured the first position in Girls.

COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS AND OTHER DIGNITARIES DISTRIBUTING

BEST IN ENDURANCE AWARDS OF THE COURSE EXPEDITION PLANNING

11. Couple of lectures were delivered to the students by Capt P K Singh and

experienced senior Instructors on the aspect of planning an expedition. They learned

formation of support team & climbing team, selection criteria of members taking in

account the physical capabilities, endurance, spirit of team work, high morale and

positive attitude. Students also learned to cater for equipments and administrative

requirements while proceeding on an expedition. Their capability to plan an expedition

was assessed by giving them the responsibility to plan an expedition to Mt Golap Kangri

(6025 mtrs) and Mt. Stok Kangri (6135 mtr). They completed the task given within given

timeframe with excellent planning and administrative strategy.

8

JOINT JIM & WS AND ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE SER. NO. 35 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT GOLAP KANGRI (6025MTR)

FLAGGING OFF OF EXPEDITION TO MT. GOLAP KANGRI (6,025 MTR) & MT. STOK KANGRI (6,135MTR).

12. The advance Mountaineering Course & Expedition to Mt. Golap Kangri (6025

mtr) & Mt. Stok Kangri (6135mtr) were flagged off by the Capt P K Singh, Medical

Officer, JIM & WS. He blessed the participants for their successful accomplishment of

the task. He praised the participants and JIM & WS staff for their extra ordinary efforts

to conduct the said courses at Leh even without having permanent resources at the

place.

FLAGGING OFF EXPEDITION TO MT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) & MT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR) BY CAPT P K SINGH, MEDICAL OFFICER, JIM & WS

CONDUCT OF EXPEDITION 13. (a) Both the Expeditions was flagged off on 15 Sept 2013 by Capt P K Singh, Medical Officer, JIM & WS.

9 (b) After having trained at Shey (Leh) in rock craft for next two days, the team moved to Stok Village on 17 Sept 2013 for further mandatory training and acclimatization.

GROUP PHOTOGRAPH SDRF-J&K PERSONNEL GROUP PHOTOGRAPH AIR FORCE PERSONNEL

BASE CAMP GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) 14. Team reached Base Camp (4500 mtr) of Golap kangri (6025 mtr) on 19 Sept

2013 after 6-7 hrs of approach march from the road head of Stok village. Stocking of

Base Camp was completed with the help of team members. The team carried out

acclimatization for next 03 days in the form of treks to glacier and nearby places. Two

groups composed of experienced climbers recced the Northern and southern glaciers of

the peak and submitted the report on 20 Sept 2013. The lead team consisting of

experienced and well trained climbers started from Base Camp on 21 Sep 13 at 0300

hours for attempting to summit.

BASE CAMP (4500 mtr) GOLAP KANGRI

10

ROPE FIXING

15. On 20 Sept 13, the trained climbers of the first team started opening route for

the summit. At around 0645 hours rope fixing party started fixing rope from base of the

peak and took around three and a half hours to fix rope till the summit.

ROPE FIXING BY TRAINED CLIMBERS

SUMMIT

16. On 21 Sep 2013, the team of 40 members along with lead party left the base

camp at 0300 hours the complete team summited at 1400 hours. High velocity winds

blowing at 140 kmph and false ridges one after the another also could not deter the

team from summiting the peak and this was for the first time that all the members of the

team scaled the peak. After offering prayer to the God on the summit, photographs were

taken. The team started descending down at around 1430 hours and reached Base

Camp at 1800 hours. The list of summiteers is attached as Appendix “C”.

SUMMITEERS ATOP MT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR) ON 21 SEP 2013

11

SNEAK PEAKS MOUNT. GOLAP KANGRI (6025 MTR)

FLAGGING OFF EXPEDITION TO MOUNT GOLAP KANGRI IN LEH-LADAKH BY

CAPT P K SINGH, MEDICAL OFFICER, JIM & WS

MOVE TO BASE CAMP WITH LOAD

ESTABLISHING BASE CAMP

12

WALKING ON SNOW FIELD IN ROPE UP FASHION

ATTEMPTING THE SUMMIT

SUMMITEER ATOP MT. GOLAP KANGRI (20,235 FT)

13

JOINT JIM & WS AND ADVANCE MOUNTAINEERING COURSE SER. NO. 35 EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STOK KANGRI (6136MTR)

BASE CAMP MT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR) 17. Team reached Base Camp (4500 mtr) of Stok Kangri (6135 Mtr) on 19 Sept 2013

after 6-7 hrs of approach march from the road head of Stok village. Stocking of Base

Camp was completed with the help of team members. The team carried out

acclimatization for next 03 days in the form of treks to glacier and nearby places. Two

groups composed of experienced climbers recced the Northern and southern glaciers of

the peak and submitted the report on 20 Sept 2013. The lead team consisting of

experienced and well trained climbers started from Base Camp on 21 Sep 13 at 0400

hours for attempting to summit.

BASE CAMP (4500 MTR) STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR) ROPE FIXING

18. On 20 Sept 13, the trained climbers of the first team started opening route for

the summit. At around 0645 hours rope fixing party started fixing rope from base of the

peak and took around three and a half hours to fix rope till the summit.

ROPE FIXING BY TRAINED CLIMBERS

14

SUMMIT

19. On 21 Sep 2013, the team of 45 members along with lead party left the base

camp at 0400 hours the complete team summited at 1000 hours. High velocity winds

blowing at 100 kmph and false ridges one after the another also could not deter the

team from summiting the peak and this was for the first time that most of the members

of the team scaled the peak. After offering prayer to the God on the summit,

photographs were taken. The team started descending down at around 1100 hours and

reached Base Camp at 1500 hours. This was first time that the Jammu & Kashmir State

Disaster Response Force (SDRF-J&K) personnel successfully conquered Mt. Stok

Kangri (6135). The list of summiteers is attached as Appendix “D”.

SUMMITEERS ATOP MT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR) ON 21 SEP 2013 DE-INDUCTION 20. After successful Summit and holding Flag-in ceremony on 23 Sep 2013 the

teams moved back to Pahalgam on 24 Sep 2013 and reported on 25 Sept 2013. The

movement plan for the conduct of Expedition is attached as Appendix” E”.

15

SNEAK PEAKS

MOUNT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR)

FLAG OFF EXPEDITION TO MOUNT STOK KANGRI(6135 MTR) IN LEH-LADAKH BY

CAPT P K SINGH, MEDICAL OFFICER, JIM & WS

MOVE TO BASE CAMP WITH LOAD

ESTABLISHING BASE CAMP

16

ATTEMPTING TO SUMMIT

WALKING ON SNOW FIELD IN ROPE UP

SUMMITEER ATOP MT. STOK KANGRI (6135 MTR)

17 ACCOMMODATION 21. The accommodation facility at Pahalgam was made in Institute Hostel building

and during Ice craft training and Expedition in Tents at Leh . The accommodation facility

provided was sufficient to comfortably survive in the cold climate of Pahalgam and Leh

(Ladakh).

INSTITUTE PAHALGAM CAMP AT LEH

FOOD 22. The students were provided with hygienic and palatable food during the training

period with additional energy supplements like fruits, dry fruits, chocolates, juices etc. A

copy of daily menu is attached as Appendix “F”

EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

23. Keeping in view the harsh training conditions during the course, the students

were provided with quality equipments and clothing gear for training purpose and

Expedition.

EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING PROVIDED BY JIM & WS

18

MEDICAL COVER 24. Dedicated medical officer Capt. P K Singh and nursing assistant of the institute

provided medical support to the participants through out the course duration. The

medical officer even went with the first summit team and also summited the peak.

Different first aid kits were prepared for trek, rock area and travelling, the students were

educated about the mountain hazards, illnesses of the mountains.

ASSESSMENT

25. The students were assessed of their performance in the course in the form of

Rock craft and Ice craft (written, Practical & oral) taken by the Instructors of the institute.

The students excelled in the test taken by securing good marks and grading. Mr Narinder Kumar, a private student from Pathankot Secured the best student Award

of the course, while Mr Ravinder Kandari a private student from Uttarakhand

secured best in Technique Award of the course. They were also assessed with their

performance as an active member of expedition to Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr). The

marks sheet is attached as Appendix “G”.

COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS AND OTHER DIGNITRIES PRESENTING BEST STUDENT AWARD TO MR NARINDER SINGH

19

OBSERVATIONS 26. (a) The students showed marked interest in learning and adopting the skills of Mountaineering & expedition planning.

(b) The students improved a lot in their physical as well as mental capabilities.

(c) The students excelled in the final test taken by the institute to assess their performance. (d) The students showed keen interest in to be trained in adventure sports at JIM &

WS.

(e) The students took keen interest in planning and executing the expedition to Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) and Mt. Stok Kangri (6135 mtr) and in successfully summiting the peak. RECOMMENDATIONS 27. (a) It is recommended that more courses be sent to JIM & WS for Basic, Advance

Mountaineering course and Method of instructions courses as well as other adventure

courses like Paragliding, White water rafting & Skiing. A copy of course programme for

the year 2014-15 is attached as Appendix “H”.

(b) The Air Force, SDRF and JIM & WS should form a strong bond to successfully

conquer higher peaks in India and abroad in the coming future to pursue the good

cause of promoting adventure in Indian youth.

(c) It is proposed that IAF warriors and SDRF personnel may be sent to JIM & WS

for more Expedition in the coming future.

FEEDBACK 28. The Photocopies of some of the feedbacks received from the students are

enclosed as Appendix “J”, reflecting the goal achieved as per the opinion of students.

20 GRADUATION CEREMONY AND FLAG INN 29. The team of advance Mountaineering Course was received at Shey (Leh) by Col

Virinder Singh, Principal, JIM & WS after the successful summit during Expedition to Mt.

Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) & Mt. Stok Kangri (6135 mtr). He flagged in the Expedition by

welcoming and felicitating all the successful participants and summiteers. He praised

the students for their excellent performance. The team was distributed with

complimentary prizes and souvenirs for their excellent performance during expedition to

Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) & Mt. Stok Kangri (6135 mtr). The students presented a

colourful cultural programme after completion of scheduled training. Beautiful events

like singing, dancing, mimicry were presented by the participants. Col Virinder Singh,

Principal, JIM & WS also praised the students for their excellent performance. The

event was followed by the distribution of the course batches, prizes and momentoes to

all the participants by the Dignitaries.

COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS AT FLAG IN CEREMONY

COL VIRINDER SINGH, PRINCIPAL, JIM & WS AND OTHER DIGNITARIES

DISTRIBUTING, BADGES, PRIZES, MOMENTOES & CERTIFICATES

21

CONCLUSION 30. During Advance Mountaineering Course training was imparted to make the

participants confident of living in mountainous terrain and to be technically proficient as

trained mountaineers. Special efforts were delivered to practice forming teams in

expedition planning. In their debut performance, the advance course team comprising

of 12 Indian Air Force personnel, 31 SDRF-J&K personnel and 43 private students and

most of them successfully summitted Mt. Golap Kangri (6025 mtr) & Mt. Stok Kangri

(6135 mtr) in Ladakh Himalayas. The performance of the participants validates the fact

that desired standards of exposure and training in advance mountain techniques were

achieved. Yours sincerely

sd/- (Virinder Singh) Colonel Principal (JIM & WS)

Encl: As stated Copy to:

1. Addl. Director General of Police, HG/CD/SDRF, Jammu-J&K

2. Joint Secretary (G/Air), D (HMI), R.No. 225 F, South Block Ministry of Defence, New Delhi-11

3. Shri. Atal Dulloo, IAS, Commissioner/ Secretary Tourism, Govt. of J&K, Civil Secretariat Srinagar –J&K-190009 4. DFA, Defence Finance, Room No. 11-B, South Block, New Delhi-11

5. Institute Library.

LIST OF SUMMITTERS JIM & WS, STAFF/ INSTRUCTORS

S.No Name Designation Remarks

1 Capt P K Singh

Medical Officer Mt. Stok Kangri (6135mtr)

2 Nk Gurmeet Singh Instructor -do-

3 Rishi Manhas Instructor -do-

4 Tsering Ladol Instructor -do-

5 Javaid Ahmad Sheikh Adm. Staff -do-

6 Nk Mangal Singh Instructor Mt Golap Kangri(6025mtr)

7 Laxman Singh Instructor -do-

8 Vikas Rana Instructor -do-

9 Mukhtar Ahmad Khan Instructor -do-

10 Shakoor Ahmad Adm. Staff -do-

Appendix “E”

MOVEMENT PLAN

S.No Date Event

1 05 Sept 2013 Move from Sonamarg and stay at Kargil

2 06 Sept 2013 Move to Leh

3 07 -12 Sept 2012 Stay at Choglamsar Leh

4 12 -17 Sept 2012 Stay at Shey Leh (Rock craft training)

5 15 Sept 2013 Flag Off

6 18 Sept 2012 Prep for move to Base Camp

7 19 Sept 2012 Move to Golap Glacier (Ice craft training), establish

base camp,

8 20 Sept 2012 Route open and Rope Fixing,

Recce and submission the report

9 21 Sept 2012 Ist Summit

10 22 Sept 2012 2nd Summit and Move back to road head

11 23 Sept 2012 Fag inn & Graduation Ceremony

12 24-25 Sept 2012 Move back to Pahalgam