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AR15 Manual

by Paolo.Orange 1a edizione. Introduzione di Luchs

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Indice AR15 una introduzione 3 General Information 6

Evolution of an AR. A look at where the M16/AR-15 platform is headed 6 AR-15s for Serious Use 13 The Wonderful AR15 Land of confusion or heaven on earth? 21

Maintenance and do it yourself 36 Rifle cleaning 36 Lubrication of firearms 38 Receiver tightness 41 Description of AR gas operation and how everything works in harmony. 42 Refinishing AR-15, M-16, and AR-10B Magazines 47 Troubleshooting And Servicing 20 Round Ar-10b Magazines 47 Defects in material and workmanship 49 Zeroing Armalite national match sights 50 Colt ar-15 hammer/trigger pin diameters 50 MILSPEC Rifles 51 Short Stroking problem and gas port 52 Assemble your own AR15 rifle from parts.... for dummies. 56 Installing a match trigger in your lower, step by step: 92 Mil Spc Pin and Spring 102 Check list after modifications 105

Barrels 109 Breaking in Match Barrels 109 Breaking in your barrel 110 Measuring headspace 113 Chamber Dimensions 114 The Effects of Barrel Design and Heat on Reliability 116 Barrel Drawings 120

Ammunition and Relaoding 124 Chamberings: a selection 124 Brass Capacity and Speed 124 Cartridge Case Failure in the M16 and Similar Rifles 125

Sources 136

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AR15 una introduzione Quando nel lontano 1963 lArmalite di Costa Mesa California, una piccola divisone del grande complesso aeronautico Fairchild, present un nuovo fucile chiamato AR 15 dovuto al progetto di Ugene Stoner pochi avrebbero creduto al suo successo e che la sua versione militare denominata M16 finisse pre infrangere il record di durata come arma di ordinanza delle forze armate americane detenuto sino ad allora dal vecchio e venerabile Springfield 1903. Larma era innovativa sotto molti aspetti: dal calibro ai materiali con cui veniva costruito sino alla meccanica. IL calibro 223 nasce da unallungamento della cartuccia 222 remington per aumentarne le prestazioni e renderla in grado di far volare la sua leggera palla da 55 grani a oltre 1000 m/s alla bocca, introducendo cosi in campo militare il concetto del piccolo ma velocissimo per aumentare il potere lesivo e perforante della munizione ordinaria. Un concetto per lepoca,che aveva visto in occidente la recente affermazione del 7,62x51, rivoluzionario. Larma era costruita con materiali altrettanto rivoluzionari ,una lega di alluminio aeronautico costituiva la base da cui veniva ricavato fusto e castello mentre il calcio, lastina e limpugnatura a pistola erano in polimero un materiale praticamente mai impiegato prima dallindustria americana per le armi leggere. Anche meccanicamente larma era diversa dal solito concetto di pistone presa gas degli M14 e degli FN FAL. Al suo apparire larma suscit parecchio scetticismo da parte dei comandi delle forze armate americane il suo aspetto avvenieristico ,fu rapidamente soppranominato Mattel Gun a cuasa del calcio in plastico e della sua leggerezza (la Mattel ancora adesso una nota casa di giocattoli in plastica). Ma con la guerra del Vietnam in pieno sviluppo lidea di unarma leggera che potesse sparare a rafica in maniera pi controllabile dei degli M14 in 7,62x51 e che fosse maneggevole e con un rinculo simile alle carabine M1 ma con un calibro dalla lesivit superiore attir lattenzione delel forze speciali americane. Un lotto di 3000 AR15 fu quindi aquisito per sperimentazione e distribuito ai Beretti Verdi. I rapporti furono molto buoni: larma era leggera precisa e le munizioni in grado di indurre ferite molto gravi. Sullonda di queste esperienze ne fu decisa ladozione e larma ricevette la denominazione ufficiale di M16, i primi 30.000 esemplari furono aquisiti dallUS Air F Force subito seguiti da unordine di 300.000 per lus army. Il concetto era quello di non dimettere lM14 , il cui sviluppo era costato 12 anni di studi e svariati centinaia di milioni di dollari dei contribuenti, ma di utilizzare lM16 solo per il teatro del sud est asiatico. Nel frattempo lArmalite non potendo far fronte a commesse cosi grandi cedette i diritti del brevetto alla Colt che si assunse lonere di produrre larma per le forze amate americane. Da questo punto cominciarono a manifestarsi dei difetti che non appartenevano allarma ma alla sua messa sul campo da parte dellUS Army, dal suo complesso logistico e dai suoi fornitori ma che finirono per apparire difetti propri dellAR15/M16 dandogli unombra che ancora adesso si porta appresso. Prima di tutto lM16 fu distribuito alle truppe senza corredarlo di un completo di pulizia e dicendo alle truppe che larma era autopulente. Questo perch le munizioni cal. 223 prodotte dalla Remington e impiegate nelle prove campali erano erano caricate con una polvere adatta ai piccoli calibri che bruciava del tutto lasciando pochissimi o anche nessun residuo di combustione. Peccato per che la OLIN ,societ incaricata di fornire allUS Army le munizioni cal. 223, avesse deciso di impiegare per il caricamento delle munizioni destinate allM16 la medesima polvere che gi impiegava per il caricamento del 7,62x51 perch giudic antieconomico smaltire le ingenti quantit di polvere gi disponibili nei suoi magazzini. Cosi accadde che le

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armi si sporcavano in maniera ben superiore a quella prevista in sede di progetto e verificata durante le prove con conseguente inceppamenti e mancate camerature; a questultimo problema contribu anche il fatto che la manetta di armamento dellM16 concepita solo per arretrare lotturatore e non per accompagnarlo in chiusura. Tutto ci port non solo alla morte di diversi militare ma anche ad ingenerare nelle truppe una sfiducia nellarma. Naturalmente quando il Pentagono si rese conto di questi problemi corse ai ripari: distribuendo alle truppe un kit di manutenzione e addestrando i soldati alla pulizia capillare dellarma e sostituendo interi lotti di munizioni. Larma f modificata: la camera di cartuccia fu cromata, fu aggiunta sul fianco del fusto un pistone che spinto manualmente permetteva di spingere in chiusura lotturatore e il rompifiamma a tricuspide a cui si imputava una certa facilit di raccolta di corpi estranei f sostituito con uno a forma di barilotto. Nonostante tutto ci continuarono a manifestarsi casi di inceppamenti e malfunzionamenti, f solo grazie ad unindagine del movimento consumatori dAmerica che si scopri che la Colt consegnava allUS Army armi difettose o che erano state respinte dagli ispettori eludendo i controlli. Alla fine della guerra del Vietnam lM16, nel frattempo denominato M16A1 per comprendere le modifiche, era diventato de facto larma di ordinaza di tutte le forze armate americane. La Colt nel 1965 aveva presentato una versione civile dellM16 denominandola AR15 sporter , larma era esteticamente identica allAR15 prodotto dallarmalite ma mancava ovviamente della capacit di tirare a raffica. Larma incontr un buon successo commerciale presso i privati anche in virt del fatto che nel frattempo il Gun Act del 1968 aveva reso complicato o in alcuni casi impossibile ottnere una licenza per acquistare unesemplare dotato di tiro selettivo. La produzione dellAR15 sporter sub alcune modifiche allinizio degli anni 70 tra cui ladozione del medesimo rompifiamma a barilotto del corrispondente modello militare. Per impedire che qualcuno montasse un castello militare su un fusto civile nellAR 15 sporter fu modificato leggermente lattacco tra le due parti usando per la versione civili viti al posto del perno a pressione. Per tutti gli anni 70 la produzione dellM16A1 e dellAR 15 rimase statica, lunica novit introdotta sul mercato civile dalla Colt alla fine degli anni 80 f una versione carabine dellAR15 sporter che montava una canna da 16 pollici invece che da 20 (la minima lunghezza legale ammessa dalle leggi federali statunitensi) e dotata di un calcio collassabile identica alla versione sperimentale accorciata dellM16 usata durante la guerra del Vietnam e denominata XM177 e mai effettivamente adottata e la definitiva introduzione in servizio del congegno lanciagranate M203 da abbinare ad un fucile M16. Nel 1984 la NATO dopo un decennio di prove adotto definitivamente come calibro STANAG il 5,56x45con la definizione di SS109 per in una versione diversa dalla cartuccia M193 di ordinanza americana, dotata di una palla da 62 grani invece che da 55 grani. Questo port alla necessita di cambiare il passo delle rigature delle armi. LUS Army aveva gi da tempo deciso di sostituire i fucili M16A1 in servizo ,principalmente a causa della usura e dellanzianit di servizio, dopo laccantonamento di alcuni programmi su fucili che impiegavano munizioni a freccette ,si decise di cogliere loccassione per introdurre una versione migliorata del M16 denominato M16A2. LM16A2 incorporava molte migliorie per farne un fucile pi preciso nel tiro quali una canna pi pesante, un diottra di mira regolabile e un selettore per la raffica controllata pi naturalmente un passo di rigatura ottimizzato per stabilizzare le palle pi pesanti. Questo rese lM16A2 unarma molto apprezzata nelle competizioni di tiro con fucile ordinanza in grado di competere a 300 metri con il vecchio e venerato M14. Per peggior le qualit lesive della munizione, cosi si pu dire che dal punto di vista bellico larma divenne meno efficace pi complicata. La Colt replico prontamente in versione sporter lM16A2

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denominandolo AR15A2 Hbar, larma f subito apprezzata dai tiratori per leccellente precisione. Alla fine degli anni 80 la Colt,in gravi difficolt finanziarie , non rinnov i brevetti dellAR15 lasciando cosi la possibilit di costruire armi di tipo M16/AR15 a chiunque fosse legalmente in grado di farlo. Nel frattempo nonostante la Colt avesse sviluppato una nuova versione carabine per le forze armate americane, adottata sotto la definizione di M4, non ricevette le grosse commesse militari sperati per problemi inerenti alla qualit e hai costi e si vide assegnare i contratti di fornitura alla filiale americana dell FN e alla DIEMACO canadese. Invece notevole sul mercato civile f limpatto del mancato rinnovo dei brevetti dellAR15. Quasi subito fiorirono diverse ditte e societ che si cimentarono nella produzione di armi tipo AR15 sia per il mercato civile che per quello militare e delle forze di polizia. Alcune di queste societ divennero famose come lOlympics arms,la Bushmaster o la Fulton Armory e sinonimo di alta qualit altre sparirono rapidamente nel nulla. Una cosi ampia offerta sul mercato port allo sviluppo di un classico fenomeno americano e cio lapparire del Custom, cio della disponibilit dei pi svariati accessori per personalizzare lAR15. Se agli inizi della sua apparizione sul mercato civile lAR15 sporter originale vantava circa 5 accessori : caricatore da 5 colpi, cinghia, completo di pulizia, tappo di volata e ottica 3x. adesso si poteva disporre di calci, astina, perti dello scatto, molle, attacchi per cannochiale ecc. Un ulteriore impulso allo sviluppo del custom venne dalla concomitanza di due fattori: il primo fu il cosiddetto assault rifle ban del presidente Clinton in cui si definivano alcuni parametri per impedire il possesso ai civili di armi di aspetto militare. Cosi naquero i pi svariati accessori per poter continuare a produrre ed impiegare armi con meccanica AR 15 ma privandole dellaspetto maarziale. E per seconda cosa dopo il fallimento di un ulteriore programma destinato a selezionar eun successore dellM16 lUS Army decise di rendere modernizzare le armi in dotazione rendendole in grado di impiegare tutta quella categoria di accessori considerati indispensabili per la guerra moderna e cio visori notturni,laser di puntamento,torce di illuminazione ecc.. Tutto ci impiegando appositi rail messi a punto dallarsenale di Picantinny. Naturalmente subito dopo lapparire dei primi esemplari di carabine M4A1 e A2 cosi equipaggiati subito ci f una vasta richiesta di accessori di questo tipo. Nel frattempo lo scadere dellassault rifle ban e le guerre che seguirono l11/9 che riepirono lo schermo di carabine M4 ed M16 ipertrofizzati di accessori sanc il definitivo affermarsi anche in campo civile di questi accessori abbinati alle meccaniche AR15, Giunti al termine di questo breve e frettoloso escursus della storia dellAR15/M16 permettetemi di dire due parole sul lavoro dellamico Paolo: a differenza di moltissimi scritti sullAR15 che rispondono al dove e al quanto, il lavoro di Paolo risponde alla pi comune domanda che si pone unappassionato tiratore e cio il come. Come faccio a smontare questa parte? Come faccio a smontare questaltro componente? E cosi via. E questo lo giudico un pregio raro in unopera dedicata ad unarma che si resa giustamente popolare per le sue qualit meccaniche e balistiche pi che per le sue qualit di testimone di un periodo storico specifico. E con questo vi auguro una buona e proficua lettura. Luchs

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General Information

Evolution of an AR. A look at where the M16/AR-15 platform is headed

By David Fortier Guns & Ammo, March 2005

A design either evolves or becomes obsolete. Unlike many rifles, the AR-15 has continued to keep pace with the needs of its users.

It's a simple-enough matter: A firearm design either evolves to keep up with the needs of the user, or it becomes obsolete and falls by the wayside. Probably the best example of this is Browning's 1911. Similarly, the AR-15 has likewise evolved in an amazing manner to keep up with the needs and desires of its end-users.

From a lightweight combat rifle sent to battle Kalashnikov's Avtomat in the jungles of Southeast Asia, the AR-15 has continually evolved down through the decades. From being considered a poor joke in the accuracy department, it has gone on to drive the M14 from the 600-yard line in NRA High Power. Scoffed at for being a "poodle shooter," the AR has grown fangs and is now available in a variety of calibers, including bigbores like the .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowulf. Its ergonomics and accuracy have allowed it to dominate three-gun and steel-plate matches. Today ARs ride in an increasing number of patrol cars, and M16A2s, A4s and M4 carbines are turning live terrorists into dead ones in Iraq and Afghanistan.

Without a doubt, the AR hasn't stood in one place for very long. With the surge of research-and-development work due to our war on terror and the recent demise of the assault weapons ban, the AR-15 is more popular today than ever. So let's take a look at where the venerable AR is headed.

Brass And Bullets

One of the most exciting changes to take place in recent years for the AR has been the introduction of both improved ammunition and entirely new chamberings.

Without a doubt, the driving force in improving the performance of the .223 has come from Service Rifle competition. With the 55-, 62- and 69-grain bullets unable to compete with the .30-caliber 168-grain Sierras at 600 yards, service-rifle shooters clamored for something

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better. This they eventually got in the form of 75-, 77-, 80- and 90-grain match bullets. Overnight the .223 went from being a 300-yard gun to being able to hold its own against the .308 at 600 yards and beyond.

In Afghanistan, where the distances are long, U.S. troops have deployed a wide variety of optical sights (such as this Horus Vision) to aid target ID and engagement.

One company that took the lead in this area was Black Hills Ammunition. Due to its quality and consistency, Black Hills quickly won every contract for .223 match ammo for every branch of the Armed Forces. When the war on terror began and our Special Forces needed a long-range load for the new SPR, they simply fielded 77-grain Black Hills Match loads.

Designated MK 262 Mod 0, this load quickly earned an enviable reputation in Afghanistan for excellent accuracy and superior terminal performance. Kills were made with this load out to 700 meters, and in one engagement two SF operators armed with SPRs killed 75 Taliban with 77 rounds. Upgraded to become the current MK 262 Mod 1, this load features a 77-grain Sierra MatchKing with a cannelure for reliable operation in full-automatic weapons.

While you cannot buy MK 262 Mod 1 ammunition, you can purchase 77-grain match ammo from Black Hills. This load is almost identical except for the lack of a cannelure and no crimp on the primer.

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The poodle has grown fangs: The 6.5mm Grendel (right)--with its 144-grain FMJ-- is just one of a number of cartridges designed to add punch

to the AR. Shown at left is a 62-grain M855 round.

While MK 262 Mod 1 gets the glory, Hornady's 75-grain TAP load is also making its presence felt in Afghanistan and Iraq. Also in use by certain Special Forces units, Hornady's 75-grain HPBT TAP load features a 75-grain Match bullet and offers improved terminal performance and superior accuracy compared to the standard-issue 62-grain M855 Green Tip.

Today, though, the AR is no longer confined to only the .223 cartridge. Current models are chambered in a wide variety of pistol and rifle calibers. In this regard probably the most interesting are the 6.5mm Grendel, 6.8x43mm SPC, .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowulf. Both the 6.5mm Grendel and 6.8x43mm SPC are modern intermediate cartridges based on existing cases.

A flexible design, the AR is now available in a variety of chamberings (left to right): 5.56, 6.5mm Grendel, 6.8x43mm SPC, .458 SOCOM, .50 Beowulf.

Developed by Alexander Arms, the 6.5mm Grendel is based on a PPC case and throws bullets weighing from 90 to 144 grains. The standard load drives a 123-grain Lapua Scenar at 2,650 fps. Thanks to a very high ballistic coefficient, this load has less drop and wind drift than a 175-grain Sierra from a .308 out past 1,000 yards.

The 6.8x43mm Special Purpose Cartridge was developed by the 5th SFG as a CQB round. Firing a 115-grain OTM bullet, this cartridge was designed to offer superior terminal performance compared to the 5.56 M855 ball round. This it does quite handily.

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U.S. military 5.56 ammunition has only slowly progressed. Clockwise from top: M855 ball, Hornady 75-grain HPBT TAP, 100-grain subsonic, Black Hills 77-grain MK 262 Mod 1 and Mod 0, the original M193 ball.

The .458 SOCOM was developed by Maarten ("Marty") P. ter Weeme of Teppo Jutsu and drives 250- to 500-grain projectiles at fairly respectable velocities (a 300-grain bullet at 1,900 fps, for example). Like the .458 SOCOM, Alexander Arms' .50 Beowulf is a short-range powerhouse. Pounding out 334-grain .50-caliber bullets at 1,900-plus fps, it quickly changes one's attitude toward a short AR carbine.

Flash Suppressors

After the assault weapons ban came into effect you only had two barrel options: a plain muzzle with a simple crown or a permanently attached muzzlebrake. Neither option, to be frank, is really desirable in a 5.56 tactical gun. Now, with the demise of the ban, it's time to make things right by adding a good-looking and highly effective flash suppressor to your rig. My list here is short: Buy a Smith Enterprise Vortex, and have it properly installed by a qualified gunsmith. Simply put, this is an excellent unit that graces my Les Baer and Rock River ARs.

Barrel Twist

For some time now a compromise 1:9 twist rate has been very popular, offering better accuracy than the military 1:7 twist with the light bullets then available. Times change, though, and with the move toward heavier bullets in the 70- to 90-grain range, a faster twist is required. Accordingly, there's been a move toward barrels with a twist rate from 1:8 to 1:6.5. I think most people would be best served by a high-quality 1:8-twist barrel. Accuracy is excellent (my Les Baer is a veritable hammer at 600 yards), and it digests a wide variety of bullet weights extremely well.

Handguards

Today's free-floating AR handguards are intended to do more than just provide a place to hold on to. Another development we can thank NRA High Power shooters for, free-floating handguards primarily enhance accuracy. Plus, with the addition of MIL STD M1913 rails, they also allow the attachment of mission-specific accessories like lights, vertical foregrips, bipods, IR illuminators and white lights. This allows an end-user to quickly and easily configure his

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weapon to fit his specific needs. In doing so, it increases the flexibility of the weapon and the survivability of the operator.

Flattop uppers allow a variety of optical and iron sights to be easily mounted.

Two quality designs that I like are LaRue Tacticals (due to its secure attachment method) and PRI (due to its shape). If you'd like to retrofit a fore-end rail system onto your weapon in place of your existing handguards, SureFire offers a system recently adopted by the DEA and FBI. A two-piece design, it locks in place securely via set screws. While it can't enhance accuracy compared to a free-floating design, the amount of degradation is not significant enough to matter in the real world.

Flattops

Today optical weapon sights have advanced to the point where they are replacing iron sights as the primary sighting system on fighting rifles. This has led to the traditional carrying-handle upper receiver being superseded by the much more versatile flattop design. A flattop receiver not only allows a variety of iron sights to be easily mounted, but, more important, it facilitates mounting optics at a proper height from the bore. With flattop rifles legal for use in NRA Service Rifle competition, I feel the only role for a carry-handle upper is on a nostalgic M16/A1/A2 clone.

With optical sights being mounted lower, folding front sights are becoming popular. At left is a Les Baer; right is a PRI.

Backup Iron Sights

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With optical sights relegating iron sights to a backup role, folding sights have become extremely popular. A folding front and/or rear sight allows the unit to be dropped out of the field of view of the optic, providing an uncluttered sight picture. If it should be needed, it only takes a moment to quickly pop them back into view. In the case of a folding rear sight, it also provides additional room for mounting an optical device. A.R.M.S., PRI and Knights Armament all make top-notch folding backup iron sights.

Some shooters, however, prefer fixed backup sights, which are always ready, co-witnessing directly through their optics. This is usually in the form of a standard A2 front sight with a fixed rear. For this type of rear sight I prefer the LaRue Tactical model hands-down due to its simplicity and ruggedness. One thing to keep in mind when considering backup iron sights: Keep it simple and rugged. Such sights are not meant for shooting High Power at Camp Perry. Rather, they are intended for emergency use only in case of optical failure. Elaborate elevation and windage adjustments are neither needed nor desirable. Again, think simple and rugged.

One new concept is a QD 3-4X magnifier, which mounts behind an Aimpoint (in this case) or EOTech. Easily mounted or removed, it turns a

red dot into a low-powered, magnified optic.

Getting A Grip

Simply put, the A2 pistolgrip is junk. It doesn't seem to fit anyone's hand well and indexes the triggerfinger too far forward. Luckily, it's easily removed via one bolt and tossed into the trash. What should you replace it with? Whatever fits your hand best. While I prefer Falcon Industries Ergo Grip, it may not fit your hand. There are many good units out there, so find something that actually fits your hand.

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Fully tricked-out and tactical: A dressed-up PRI 6.8x43 SPC sits in front of a 7.62x39mm Krebs KTR-03S AK. While it is the most prolific assault rifle in the

world, the AK is just starting to catch up to the AR in its ability to mount modern accessories.

Buttstocks

In many ways the A2 buttstock was a step in the wrong direction. While the additional length was fine for shooting slung up at Camp Perry, it's really too long for a modern aggressive stance. With the assault weapons ban gone, ditch the A2 in favor of a four- or six-position collapsible stock. This will allow you to tailor the length of pull to your needs. Snap it in for CQB drills, or quickly lengthen it for shooting prone.

While the extremely cheap imported stock sets are tempting, I strongly suggest buying a Vltor. Why Vltor? Equipped with multiple sling-attachment points, a better cheekweld and two battery-storage compartments to keep your gadgets juiced up, it's a great piece of kit. Don't like collapsible stocks? Not a problem; Vltor makes fixed stocks in both A1 and A2 lengths.

High cool factor: LaRue Tactical makes an SPR scope mount, which accepts a tiny Dr. Optics or J Point red dot. This allows the red dot to be used at close-quarter

battle distances.

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AR Optics

While the U.S. military dragged its feet behind our allies, it has now fully acknowledged the superiority of modern optical weapon sights over conventional iron sights. The sudden strong push in this direction has spurred a flurry of development among optics manufacturers. This has resulted in three major categories: red-dot-type sights, conventional scopes and low-powered scopes designed to cross over between roles.AR

When it comes to red-dot sights, the hands-down favorite is the Aimpoint Comp M series. Simple and rugged, it has seen extensive combat use and is now the yardstick by which others are measured. The Aimpoint's only rival is EOTech's Holographic Weapons Sight. Recently adopted by SOCOM, this versatile sight is now seeing broader use and performing well.

Both of these sights are designed for quick engagement at in-your-face distances out to approximately 300 meters. Both work well with night-vision monoculars, like Insight Technology's Multi-Use Minimonocular, and both companies are working on 3-4X magnifiers that will quickly mount behind the sight. This will allow them to act normally with the magnifier removed or act as a scope with it in place.

One traditional scope developed expressly with the AR family in mind is Leupold's 3-9x36mm Mid Range Tactical. Designed for the SPR, it's available with both M1 and M3 knobs, a Mil Dot reticle and allows targets to be engaged out to the limits of the system. While not perfect, it is compact and lightweight and a good match for this rifle. Another is the Trijicon ACOG. Recently adopted across the board by the Marines, this scope saw heavy fighting in the battle for Fallujah. While an older fixed-power design, its BAC feature keeps it popular.

The latest group of optics is designed to perform like a red dot at short range yet provide enough magnification for target identification and extended shots. Examples include Schmidt & Bender's 1.1-4x20mm Short Dot, IOR's 1.1-4x26mm CQT and Leupold's brand-new Mark 4 1.5-5x20mm MR/T with SPR reticle and half-MOA M2 turrets. This type of dual-purpose scope seems to be the current trend in optics.

AR Accessories

How about lights, lasers, vertical grips, rail-panel covers, QD optics mounts and more, much more? Whatever you truly need, or your heart desires, is readily available. Just choose wisely from a reputable company.

When it comes to lights and lasers, consider SureFire and Insight Technology. Vertical grips and rail-panel covers? Consider Tango Down. QD optics mounts? Think LaRue Tactical or A.R.M.S.

As long as the AR continues to evolve to meet the needs of its users, I'm sure it will thrive. While certainly not perfect, it's a surprisingly flexible design capable of phenomenal accuracy. Although ARs are easy to dress up, keep things in perspective. I feel it's better to have a worn, plain-Jane A1 and the training to use it than a gadgeted-up, techno-wonder rifle with no skills. Choose wisely.

AR-15s for Serious Use

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By Forest

Manager of the Maryland AR-15 Shooters Site

I have seen a lot of postings about unreliable AR-15s from people who intend on using them for "serious" purposes. Most often these problems can be repaired or were avoidable in the first place if you know what to look for when choosing an AR-15. My goal with this article is not to upset those who made "less than ideal choices", but to inform those who are considering relying on an AR-15 with their life. If your rifle is not one of the ones I list as being reliable enough, there will be a paragraph dealing with how to upgrade it to spec. The rifles I discuss may not be true tack drivers but all are capable of 1 MOA groups with the proper ammo, or sub 2 moa groups with decent quality ball ammo. There are four things to consider if you want a reliable AR - the rifle itself and what features it contains, your magazines, your maintenance/cleaning, and your ammo selection. We will trade-off some accuracy for reliability, and cosmetic looks for functioning and durability.

Required Features

Too often people judge rifles by fit & finish or form over function. For a serious rifle you must ignore the superficial cosmetics and go to the working parts. First off what is needed for a "serious" AR-15? There are several features that should be considered, these features are all present in Military M16s, but not in all civilian AR-15s. In order of importance (IMHO) they are: M16 sized chamber, chrome lined chamber, mil-spec heat treated fire control parts, chrome lined bore, a chrome lined bolt carrier, and standard sized fire control pins. The serious AR should have a forged lower receiver and a forged front sight for maximum strength.

* The M16 sized chamber is a bit larger than its civilian counter part (the SAMMI spec). It will allow you to safely shoot military ammo (especially tracers) and are usually slightly larger in diameter to be able to handle dust & dirt.

* The chrome lined chamber aids in extraction with its very smooth, hard, and slippery surface. It also is very corrosion resistant (good for those who live in wet/humid environments).

* The Mil-Spec heat-treated parts are for long-term reliable operation and to minimize wear (some of the parts vendors sell stamped parts that will wear much quicker).

* A chrome lined bore helps resist corrosion, extends barrel life from wear, and makes clean up much easier. Note that all non-stainless barrels are Chrome/Moly steel of some kind, very few are chrome-lined.

* The chrome LINED (not on the exterior) bolt carrier is good for reliable operation and ease of cleaning.

* The standard sized fire control pins are mostly for replacement parts. With standard sized pins you can use 90% of the available AR parts and you can use surplus M-16 parts in a pinch (I recommend demilling them to AR standards before installation to avoid potential problems with the BATF).

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One other feature a working rifle should have is a lightweight (not HBAR) barrel, a minimum of 14.5" of barrel length (flash hider/muzzle brake not included), and 1:9 or 1:7 twist. We will talk more on this in other paragraphs, and how to get one if you already have an HBAR.

4150 barrel steel is a "nice to have" feature, as opposed to the lower grade, less expensive 4140 steel. Its not a critical feature, but the barrel will last longer.

Feature Compliant Manufactures

Of all those features, only one manufacturer currently gives you all these features, two others come close. If you buy a rifle (or kit) from someone other than those listed you are taking some chances with reliable operation and long-term wear. The least compliant of the Big Three manufactures surprisingly is Colt! Colt no longer chrome lines the bores of their rifle (gives a bit more accuracy), and their fire control pins are usually (90% of the time) non standard (limits parts availability). Lately they have also been a bit cheap on the trap door buttstock and buffer, but at least are now offering the rifle with two push pins to separate the receivers. Note that older rifles may have the chrome lined bores, and may not have the font take down pin. Colt usually has the best quality control (though they have been slipping a bit lately), but the worst customer service (good thing they usually make the rifles right the first time!). Colt is a good choice if you are looking for the most accuracy possible. The next manufacture to consider is Armalite, but only those rifles with the chrome-lined chambers & bores. Note I said Armalite, NOT Eagle Arms, while they come from the same factory the Armalites have the chrome lining in their barrels. Dont let the clerk try to sell you the more accurate rifle with the stainless barrel - You want reliability over accuracy. The only point where the Armalites fall short is in the chamber. While Armalite has repeatedly promised, during the last 2 years, they were going to the M16 spec chamber in their chrome-lined barrels. Well recently they admitted it had not yet been done (but its coming soon). Armalite is the only one of the Big Three to not use the mil-spec 4150 steel in their barrels. The tougher steel is nice, but not critical in this rifle, as the chrome lining will help extend the wear. On the plus side they do have a lifetime warranty and better quality control than the last of the Big Three. The last of the Big Three is Bushmaster. Bushmaster is also the ONLY one to offer all of the desirable features, and is the closest to the rifles used by the US military. You want to select a model that has a chrome lined bore (this leaves out the DCM rifle and the new Varmint rifle). Bushmaster also offers several lightweight barrel options for post ban rifles (16" M4 barrel {best}, the M4/AK barrel, and the M4 Dissapator [16" barrel with rifle sight radius]). They also offer all their HBARS in fluted form for a modest weight reduction. By the way in 1999 Bushmaster made more AR-15s for the commercial market than ALL the other manufacturers (in the US) combined. With such a large number of rifles produces sometimes little things get by. The biggest complaint is the barrel is improperly torqued, resulting in a rear sight that is all the way to one side when zeroing. I dont worry about it, if you do then send it back. Bushmaster has great customer service and is quick about fixing any glitches or problems. Note even the Big Three occasionally turn out a lemon - it happens to the best of manufacturers. All of them will take the rifle back and get it fixed (though it may take a while with the Colt). Just be sure to maintain them properly and you should have minimal (near zero) problems.

Upgrading a Non-Compliant Rifle

OK so you already have an AR and want to upgrade it to make it more reliable. First lets talk about part suppliers. Many are indicating the parts they get are FN Manufactured (they hold

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the current M16A2 contract for the US Army). BEWARE OF ANYONE SELLING "FN" PARTS/BARRELS/RECEIVERS - AVOID THEM LIKE THE PLAUGE. FN is prohibited from selling rifles or parts on the commercial market. FN can not legally produce AR-15s, so all their fire control parts are M16A2 (thus not legal in a typical AR-15). Any parts that are truly FN produced were either stolen, or were factory rejects that were sold as scrap. Buying stolen item is never a good idea, and using what may be factory rejects isnt smart either. Do you want to bet you life that FN barrel you bought doesnt have some sort of flaw in the steel? Another point to consider. Most AR parts are not marked as to the manufacturer, many shady dealers sell their parts as FN knowing no right minded person will buy factory seconds or cheap imported parts. A word to the wise - stick with the big three for parts.

First thing to consider upgrading is the barrel (replacement cost about $200). While this might seem like a good sum of money, you got to think what is your life worth? Plus you could always sell the old barrel on the net and recoup some of your costs. A new in spec barrel gets you a chrome-lined M16 sized chamber, a chrome lined bore, a forged front sight, and often a lightweight profile. There are only two brands to consider Colt or Bushmaster. Many of the Colt aftermarket lightweight barrels are chrome lined (completely), and their military (A2 or M4) barrels are fully lined. The biggest difference between the two is the twist rate. Most Colts are 1:7, this will stabilize 55gr and 62gr rounds, and will stabilize the M856 tracer and the 80gr match loads. Unfortunately under rapid/heavy fire the barrel will burn out quicker than the now common 1:9 barrels. Bushmaster is a big proponent of the 1:9 barrels as theyre optimal for 62gr loads (i.e. M855/Nato SS109) and will handle 40gr varmint loads up to 75gr match loads. It should have a longer barrel life given the same shooting conditions as the 1:7. Now when selecting a barrel you DO NOT want an HBAR. The AR is intended as a lightweight rifle, and the extra weight offers little. The difference between an HBAR 20" rifle and the same rifle with an A2 barrel profile is 1 pound - that is an empty HBAR rifle weighs the same as a fully loaded (30 rounds) A2 barreled rifle, quite a difference.

Pre-Ban Options: For the pre-ban rifle Colt makes barrels in A2 (20"), M4 (16"), and lightweight (16") profile, all in 1:7 twist. For a carbine Id go with the weight savings of the lightweight over the 16" M4 - though neither will allow you to use a bayonet. Bushmaster makes pre-ban barrels in A2 profile, M4 (16"), M4 (14.5" with welded on Phantom flash suppressor), and a lightweight profile. For the carbine Id recommend the M4/Phantom combination because it WILL allow you to use a bayonet. Avoid the surplus A1 barrels. The A1 barrels 1:12 twist will prevent you from being able to shoot the 62gr (and heavier) loads. If you must have an A1 profile barrel - then send it to a gunsmith for reprofiling (see Upgrades to All Rifles).

Post-Ban Options: In post ban form Bushmaster offers a 16" M4 barrel (best post-ban carbine barrel), a M4/AK barrel (14.5" M4 barrel with an AK muzzle brake - skip this), and a M4 Dissipater (16" barrel with a 20" barrel sight radius, .2 lbs more than a 16" M4 barrel). Id stay away from the fluted barrels, their weight loss is minimal compared to the profiled barrel, and for roughly the same price you can turn an HBAR into the barrel profile of your choice. Of course for a post-ban rifle you can use a pre-ban barrel with some changes. Remove the bayonet lug (or just its ears), and permanently attach a BATF approved muzzle brake (like the Wilson Combat or Kurts Kustom brake). Instructions for the BATF approved method of hi-temp silver soldering a muzzle brake onto a threaded barrel can be found at the Maryland AR-15 Shooters Site. Most smiths (Kurt included - see next section) can do the pre-to post change with little work.

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Low on funds? Ok you want to upgrade you barrel but you are low on funds for the moment. What can you do the help improve reliability for now? Polish the chamber! You will need some JB Paste or Remington Bore cleaner, polishing compound, a drill, and either a mop (large enough to fit the chamber or a chamber brush and some patches. First use some of the JB Past on the mop (or a patch wrapped around the chamber brush) and put it in the chamber. Use the drill to polish the chamber (not too much!). Then repeat using finer polishing compound. This will open up the chamber a tiny bit, but more importantly allow easier round extraction.

If you are unsure about the quality of your parts you can buy internal parts sets from Armalite, Colt and Bushmaster (cost around $60). This will ensure that your parts will not wear out prematurely (you can keep the old ones as emergency field spares). Be sure your bolt carrier is chromed lined (in the area the bolt resides), if it is not lined or the hole is not round (i.e. oval) then replace it with a quality (in-spec) unit.

Parts to Avoid (Other than FN)

There are several parts out there that are sold as upgrades and better than spec. Most of these parts are intended to separate you from your money with little to no improvements offered, and a possibility of reduced reliability. These parts include Chrome plated bolt carriers, Chrome plated bolts, TiN coated parts (bolt carrier, fire control), and Titanium firing pins.

* Chrome plated bolt carrier were first used back in the 60s, they helped reduce corrosion and made cleaning easier. However it was found out that these bolt carrier caused excessive wear on the upper receiver, Since the 70s the military has regulated chromed bolt carriers training units and are forbidden in deployable weapons (i.e. rifles that will be used in battle).

* Chromed Bolts are allowed, however they are no longer in spec. Then why avoid them you ask? Simple, no top tier (Big 3) manufacture makes them. I know of one person who is now on his THIRD chromed bolt, as they seem to be prone to breakage (one broke after 200 rounds). If the process isnt done just right the steel gets brittle and that leads to breakage. The same problems with the chromed parts apply to the TiN parts. Until the military starts requiring them in duty weapons your best bet is to stay away from them.

* Some people go to the Titanium firing pins to solve a mythical slam fire problem. Sorry folks, that was solved 35 years ago, and the result is the current chromed steel pin. In a modern AR-15, slam fires are caused by either using very soft primers (like pistol primers) and/or not seating the primers deep enough (so the bolt face hits the primer). Titanium firing pins will not offer an accuracy improvement for non-match rifles, and due to the nature of Titanium have a tendency to wear out and chip (chipping can lead to pierced primers - something you dont want to happen).

Save your money and keep the rifle reliable - use standard parts from quality vendors.

Upgrades to All Rifles (especially HBARS)

If you have an HBAR barrel on your rifle you need to consider a weight loss program. The AR-15 was intended as a lightweight rifle, carrying around the extra weight just leads to early fatigue. As said before an empty HBA R 20" rifle is the same weight as a 20" A2 barreled rifle with a 30 round magazine. Heck a 20" A2 barrel is LIGHTER than a 16" HBAR barrel. Since you already have a rifle with an HBAR what can you do? The cheapest way to

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get the barrel down to fighting weight is to send it to a smith and have him put it on a lathe and turn it down to the proper diameter then reparkerize the barrel. This should affect accuracy minimally if done right. Any decent AR smith should be able to reprofile and reparkerize your HBAR barrel to a military profile for much less than the cost of a new barrel. Kurt Wala of Kurts Kustom ( http://www.kurts-kustom-firearms.cityslide.com/pages/page.cfm/64927 ) does this at his shop (16" HBARs to M4 or lightweight, 20" HBARS to A2 or A1 profile) for a very reasonable rate (HBAR 20" to A2 is $55). I prefer the A2 to the A1 profile for my 20", while being a few ounces heavier it keeps its accuracy longer when shooting a lot.

Another area people want to upgrade is their extraction. This is especially an important thing to look at for carbines with their shortened gas system. There are three ways to do this. The first is the mil-spec way, by replacing your current extractors (with the blue insert in the extractor spring) for the newer extractors with the black insert. The black insert was originally developed for the M4 carbine, but works in all AR-15s and is the only replacement part the military is now buying. Cost is $4 from SAW LE Sales (http://www.SAWLESALES.com). The other two methods are designed to be used with the older blue insert. They are the Armforte Defender ($14) and the Olympic Arms EXring ($1.49). Basically they work the same, they go around the extractor spring and add more force to the extractor. Personally the easiest and best way is to get the mil-spec part, but having a few EXrings on hand as spares isnt a bad idea.

Trigger upgrades are something most people want for a more accurate rifle. That is fine; just remember your upgraded trigger should not have any screws to adjust. Screws have a tendency to come loose at the wrong time (Murphy principal). There are several ways you can upgrade your trigger and still keep the rifle military reliable. The first is to just polish the trigger pin and smoothen out the pull. The other was is to get one of the replacement triggers that do not have screw adjustments. If you want a double stage type trigger consider either the Armalite or Rock River Arms trigger. If you just want a better single stage then look to the one offered by Accuracy Speaks.

Speaking of triggers you know that open area just behind the trigger guard and in front of the pistol grip? Yeah the one that can give you blisters if you carry your rifle all day (like at an urban rifle class). Well you can solve the blister problem either by stuffing a foam earplug in there, or spending a couple of bucks and buy a Gapper (available from many sources). The Gapper fills the void and prevents the blister. This doesnt affect reliability or durability, but it does making holding the rifle for long periods much easier.

Other Part Notes

There are threee other parts you should be aware of. Normally these parts are made of aluminum, but in some cases plastic is used. Depending on the part that could be a good thing. The first part is the Trigger Guard. Traditionally that part has been aluminum. Bushmaster currently uses plastic (they claim it is allowed by the mil-spec). Personally I prefer the plastic. The aluminum can be bent in such a way that it blocks the trigger (not a good thing!). If the plastic is bend beyond the breaking point it snaps; it may be broken - but it wont block the trigger. The next part that is often replaced by plastic is the magazine release. Aluminum is preferred here, but it is not a big issue. The Delta Ring is the final part that is often replaced by plastic. This part is subject to being hit on rocks and should be aluminum for maximum durability. The chief problem is it is very difficult to replace (you will

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need to remove the front sight post). Best bet is to get it replaced when you have your HBAR reprofiled.

Magazines

Magazines are a critical part in the reliability of any semi-automatic firearm; this is especially true with an AR. To insure reliable feeding DO NOT PURCHASE aftermarket magazines. These may be used for training purposes just fine, just dont rely on them with your life. There are only 3 magazines I would consider for a reliable AR. USGI 30 round aluminum, USGI 20 round aluminum, or 30 round US produced Thermolds (not Orlites). Theoretically the steel FNC 20 round magazines (European military issue for the FN-FNC 5.56mm rifle) should also be fine, but I have not found any for sale in the US. USGI 20 round magazines include those used by the military (alloy follower) and the Colt commercial magazines (with plastic follower). The military ones are a bit more reliable due to their alloy follower. The 20s in general are considered more reliable than the 30s due to their straight walled design. The 20s weak point is the feed lips, they are unsupported at the rear and will tend to wear out (spread) earlier than the USGI 30s. The USGI 30s are the most common magazine. Thermold magazines, a hard black plastic magazine, were intended to replace the USGI aluminum ones. I find the 30 round versions made in the US to be very reliable, the 20 round version are not so reliable and should be considered 2nd tier (along with the Orlites - softer black plastic) suitable more for training. I have reports from soldiers in the field that the Canadian produced Thermolds (have a maple leaf stamped on them) are less than durable. Their lips wear out quickly, and they cannot be stored loaded for long periods of time (the stress bulges the magazine at the feed lips resulting in double feeds). I have not noted these problems with the US produced magazines (marked Master Mold), but I dont have nearly as much field time with them as my source.

When buying magazines there are some items you should inspect, and some you should ignore. Here is how to check for a magazine.

* Finish. Amount of finish is not important - only function. Exterior finish is cosmetic and doesnt help the functioning, longevity, or reliability. Generally steer clear of refinished magazines as they can have fit and function problems if too much finish is used.

* Check the Lips. You are looking to see if they have cracks (especially where they connect to the body of the magazine and at the rear. Also check to see if they have started to spread (compare to a known good magazine).

* Check to see the magazine fits into your magazine well with little effort and that the body has not spread or bulged. Look for failed weld along the edges, and be sure there are 6 welds per edge (front & back) on a 30 round magazine.

* Check to be sure all 4 of the tabs are present holding the bottom plate on. Sometimes there is duct tape covering up that area. Remove it, if possible, to be sure it is not holding the base plate on. (Duct tape is sometimes used to aid in extracting the magazines from the pouches)

* Check the action of the follower, make sure it is smooth and the spring is not rusted.

* Check the baseplate. The name on the plate is not important, DO NOT pay a premium for Colt magazines they are no better than any other USGI contractor. Just be sure there is a name (that it is not blank), and it is one of the USGI contractors ( Adventure Line, Colt, BFI,

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Center, Colt, FN, Labelle, Okay, Sanchez, Simmonds). Beware of Coopers, if you do find some - verify they have the 6-7 welds per seam and they fit in your magazine well.

Ammo

Like with all things if you feed it garbage, dont expect high performance. Ammunition like Wolf (steel cased) usually feeds fine in in-spec rifles. It is cheap blasting/training ammo, though it is very dirty and underpowered. However to insure full reliability and performance stick with mil-spec (or close to it) ammo. Even the clean/accurate commercial ammo (like American Eagle) should only be regulated to training as they lack the flash retardants and muzzle velocity of the military loadings. Military spec (M193) ammunition includes Winchester Q3131 (made in the USA), Winchester Q3131A (made in Israel by IMI), and IMI M193 and IMI M855 (62gr). Of all these I prefer the Winchester Q3131A it is of higher quality (IMHO) than Q3131 and it generally costs less than the IMI M193 (though its the same stuff). Stay away from the 1999 lots of Winchester Q3131 (USA produced). Ive found there was poor quality control and different lots have had problems (including popping primers). Some of the lots were known, but others have just been discovered (2 years after production). As a rule its just best to avoid the 1999 lots for maximum dependability. Another good inexpensive load is the South African military ammo (in the brown battle packs). It seems identical to M193, and if nothing else its cheap, CLEAN, practice ammo that shoots to the same point of aim as M193. This stuff is 20 years old so I wouldnt be using it for long-term storage, but it shoots well.

Keeping the Rifle Clean

Many people think that the AR is only reliable when it is spotless. The rifle should be cleaned, but it does not have to be spotless. A typical cleaning should take no more than 15-20 minutes and 6 to 8 patches for the bore! Any more and you are probably over cleaning it (not necessarily bad, but it really doesnt help). First off, follow the Operators Manual (-10) for cleaning AND lubrication (you can down load it for free from http://old.ar15.com/books). Many people want to clean and lubricate the rifle like it was a match rifle. That would be fine if it were such a beast, but we are talking about a reliable weapon, not a range toy. Be sure to use CLP (either Break Free CLP or Remington Nitro CLP - be sure the bottle says CLP). DO NOT use any other lubricants or solvents, these can react with the CLP and really gum things up. Areas to pay attention to include the chamber, locking lugs, end of the gas tube, bolt, extractor, cam pin, and bolt recess (in the bolt carrier). Be sure to lubricate the ejector on the bolt face (instructions are in the -10). These are the areas most critical for reliable operation of the rifle.

When cleaning the barrel you should only need 6 to 8 patches. If the patches come out a little gray that is OK. CLP is constantly pulling carbon out of the pores, even if you were to get a white patch, if you ran a patch down the bore the next day it would come out gray (from stuff the CLP pulled out of the fissures and pores). If you do need to clean out the copper (rarely needed - only when the groups start to open up, about 2000-3000 rounds) be sure to strip the barrel and upper receiver of the copper solvent by using Gun Scrubber or similar degreaser.

If CLP is not available then LSA would the second choice. When changing lubricants to or from CLP remember to strip off the old lube with Gun Scrubber or another degreaser to prevent gumming.

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Closing Comments:

If the AR is properly set up, uses good magazines, good ammunition and is properly cared for; it should be an extremely reliable system. Just keep it as close as possible to the same specification the military demands for its rifles. To those that dont have spec rifles but are saying "my rifle works fine - thank you". Great for you, you got one of the lucky ones; or you have not sufficiently pushed it in a bad environment. Does having a Spec guarantee you will not have a malfunction?? Of course not! (Otherwise we wouldnt need immediate action drills!) However, it will significantly reduce problems. You may want to keep a bad magazine or two so you can still practice malfunction drills, as they will most likely not occur during range time with a top tier AR. Leave the match barrels and such to the DCM shooters and gun game players, give me a serious AR.

The Wonderful AR15 Land of confusion or heaven on earth? by Scott Powers Due to the continuing reader interest in the AR15 rifle, I have been roped into producing the following Four Part article. I will cover the AR15 Match Service Rifle, the AR15 Tactical Carbine, the AR15 Tactical Rifle and close it all up with a short piece on how to built an AR15. I hope to include all the options but I am sure I will miss a few. If I do, it does not indicate that the overlooked part is a bad one. There are just so many on the market one has a genuinely tough time keeping track of them all and deciding which is the way to go. Herein lies one reason why the AR15 is such an excellent base rifle to choose when looking for a good close to medium range tactical rifle as well as an excellent base for long range target shooting, a High Power rig or a varmint rifle. The amount of gear on the market boggles the mind. It ranges from the silly to the sublime. There are cheap $30 tactical scopes that only a fool or an ignoramus would use and there are no nonsense products worth every penny. I will try to highlight the basics with this article in an attempt to give you, our readers, an idea of what you can do and what you can expect from your AR15. So YOU want to built an accurate AR15? Maybe you can not quite afford to do it all at once, or you are reluctant to pay the premium for a custom rifle. Not to worry. Everything you need to roll your own AR is readily available and easily procured. The truly great thing about the AR is its modular design. You can use your current rifle to create another of excellent accuracy, or you can order all the parts to build a rifle from scratch that will be almost as competitive as the top of the line custom rifle. Only your imagination is the limit. You may not believe me when I tell you that it is possible to build a match grade Service Rifle for as much as half the price of a custom built rig, but this is true. How can this be? The basic design of the AR15 is such that it lends itself to easily done modifications. As well, it is a very accurate rifle to begin with. A top smith can supremely tune the AR and by all means, he will manage to wring out a little more accuracy. But the difference might be measured in a few thousandths of an inch! Your half moa rifle might not be as accurate as his .2 moa rif le, but you probably will not be able to tell during a High Power match! First off, you have to choose what it is you want to build and why? As this website deals exclusively with tactical rifles, I will touch on these as well as High Power rifles. All other uses stem from these anyway, so while I may not mention a varmint rig or Space gun, everything listed here applies. A flat top tactical rifle, with a different scope, can easily do second duty as a varmint rifle.

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Tools Building an AR15 is pretty basic . While I won't say any idiot can do it, my wife might beg to differ. All it takes is a little common sense, a few simple tools and two specialized tools that any AR owner should have anyway. The specialized tools are inexpensive and readily available from most parts houses selling AR15 parts. You will need a barrel nut wrench, a torque wrench, a barrel/action block to hold the upper receiver in a vice, a pair of needle nose pliers, an X-Acto knife, a screw driver, a hammer and a center punch (Flat Tipped). If you are building a free float tube equipped AR, you will want the Free Float tube wrench instead of the regular barrel nut wrench. Oh, and an old M-16 armorer's manual helps, but is not a must have. Get it anyway as it will help you through the process and has good trouble shooting tips. You can get by with less, but these tools will make life a lot easier. My first AR was build using nothing more than a hammer, 16 penny nail and a screw driver. I do not recommend that but it can be done! The specialized tools are the Barrel wrench ( either Free Float tube type or standard ) and the barrel/action block. I will go into more detail below. Type of usage Tactical Carbines Dedicated Sniper Rifles High Power Rifles I will start with the last first as this is most applicable to the average citizen. The High Power rifle. Each passing year sees more and more AR15s on the line at High Power matches. Why? The AR has many advantages over the M1A, which until now, has been the traditional king of the line. The AR is not particular about bedding. It has none to spoil. The AR is light of recoil and is a joy to control during the Rapid fire strings. The AR holds its zero indefinitely unless treated VERY badly. It is indifferent to the elements. Humidity, rain, cold. Nothing seems to bother it much. It can be sloppy and still shoot well. In short, when compared to the rifle it replaced, it is totally versatile and can take the hard knocks. The fact that it has remained for so long the main service rifle of the United States says much about its design - nothing better has come along in 30 years. The M1A only lasted a few years before being replaced. It is essentially an M1 Garand with a 20 round magazine. 1930s technology at its best. But the best reason the AR is taking over the line is accuracy. A tuned M1A seldom matches an AR15 for pure accuracy. With the introduction of long bullets of high ballistic coefficient, the little .224 bullet has finally reached the 1000 yard line! It can compete and hold its own against the best .30 caliber 168 grain bullet on the market. So you want to get into the High Power game, but can not afford to purchase an accurized Service Rifle due in part to all the other equipment requirements needed for this game. This is OK. Frankly, you could use any old AR to start, and upgrade it as you go. This is why the AR is so great. You can replace parts as needed and as the budget fits. I competed for a year without a free float tube. I went from Marksman to Expert in three matches this way, so obviously not being equipped with state of the art didn't matter. The idea is to learn to shoot well, no matter how basic the rifle. You can add accuracy improving enhancements as your skill improves. At first, you will not be able to shoot as well as the standard rifle anyway, so take your time building the ultimate Service Rifle rig. If you are starting from scratch, you will need to purchase a post ban lower receiver. In a way, this is a good thing as you will not need to worry about flash hider tension which does have an effect on accuracy. ( The AMU found that a flash hider screwed on HAND TIGHT is the best in terms of accuracy. Too tight and it will distort the bore and affect accuracy. ) A quality post ban barrel with a target crown is a good thing, no matter how odd it may look at first glance! This eliminates the flash hider completely and allows one to keep a close tab on the condition of the crown. Avoid those staked on post ban muzzle breaks! You can never service the crown, clean it or even see it with these

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things! Either go with no muzzle attachment or stick with a pre-ban military flash hider on a pre-ban gun. A real case can be made that no muzzle attachment is the most accurate anyway, as it will allow the gasses to expand evenly as the bullet leaves the muzzle. The lower receiver can be purchased from many sources. My two favorites are Bushmaster and Armalite. Both make excellent lowers at reasonable prices. There are other companies also. Check around comparing quality and price. Do not be hung up on a name. Especially do not be hung up on a Colt. This is like Nike. You are paying for the name but getting no extra performance for the money. A good lower receiver will run between $100 and $120. With lower in hand, you will need to order a complete rifle kit from one of the many outlets doing this business. My favorite is M&A parts. Model 1 Parts and Sun Valley are also in this business. Armalite and Bushmaster have kits too, but you will pay quite a bit more of these and in the case of Armalite, you may have to wait longer to get them. Frankly you get little extra for the money when compared to the other parts houses. On the plus side, going with either Armalite or Bushmaster parts may make the rifle easier to sell someday as some people prefer these two companies over others. My impression is that they ALL rely on outside contractors and you might be getting the same upper no matter who you purchase it from. Do not worry about the upper not matching the lower exactly in finish. Having a two tone rifle affects accuracy not a bit. Also let me address here the issue of receiver play. Many people are under the false impression that the slop between the upper and lower receiver on the AR15 affects accuracy. It does not. At least not in the manner in which you might think. You can put this one firmly into the realm of operator error. Guys think this makes a big difference and they shoot lousy accordingly. There have been many efforts to tighten up the receivers, but the accuracy gain is infinitesimally small for the effort. I once met a guy who would not open his rifle up for fear that it would not have the same zero when closed! He was going to attend a match and didn't want to upset the rifle after zeroing it. I almost busted out laughing at the poor sap as he was suffering under some seriously false impressions. And he was Manic about it! You can pop the AR receivers apart all day and nothing is going to change. Must I say it again? There is NO bedding to spoil! Back to the project. When you order the complete kit you will be getting all of the assemblies needed to finish your rifle. BUT you will ask to have some of these deleted from the order. This is imperative if you plan on building a top flight competition rig.

You do not want... ... the standard 1:9 twist Heavy Weight barrel most companies offer. These are generally Chrome Lined barrels of military grade. Chrome lining is not the most accurate option and several companies sell button cut or broach cut non chrome lined barrels. Olympic Arms, Krieger, Obermeyer to name a few. You can also go with a stainless barrel. Expect to pay from $190 to $450 for a quality match barrel. Olympic Arms barrels run around $225. Krieger runs closer to the upper end of the price scale. They all shoot well, so you have to decide where your priorities are. I went with the Olympic match barrel on the theory that I would pay less for my first barrel and burn it out while learning the High Power ropes. I had thought that by the time I was good enough to notice, the barrel would be worn out and I'd replace it with a more expensive Krieger. To my surprise the Olympic barrel was incredibly accurate. When this one is finally worn out, I may get one again!

You do not want... ... the stock trigger group but you might take it anyway, as spares are good to have. The stock trigger can be tuned, but the final result is seldom worth the cost. Do not, and I MEAN DO NOT try to tune the stock trigger yourself. Unless you are a very experienced smith, you will ruin it. Between a buddy and myself we are responsible for ruining about four trigger groups. The best you can do with a stock trigger is to polish the surfaces smooth. Do not try to change the angles. You'll just end up making the rifle double fire or not fire at all. Leave the stock unit alone and go after-market. These are a quantum leap in feel and reliability. There are several good after-market options. Armalite offers a two stage trigger, tunable for weight. It retails around $150 to $170. The two stage Krieger-Millazo

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is a very popular trigger group for around $230. JP Enterprises offers an excellent single stage trigger that can be tuned below three pounds for $125. This is one of my favorite triggers. It can be tuned for zero creep and zero over travel. I have mine set to the NRA High Power required 4.5 pounds. I like this trigger a lot as it is so versatile. You can use it in a tactical rifle, High Power rifle, or plain old plinker. It is not hard to install and the directions are easy to follow. I feel single stage triggers are better than two stage triggers for some uses. A case could be made that the two stage is ideal for High Power but both its cost and longer travel bothered me as the lower receiver I have sees multiple use. Having a two stage trigger for tactical carbine did not appeal to me. Of course, this is subjective. I "grew up" in the infantry using a single stage trigger in an M16A1, so it is what I am used to. The JP is so crisp, you can not help but love it. All I can tell you to do is visit a match and try to dry fire a two stage. It may be exactly what you need and want. I can tell you that the single stage is great, but until you have tried both, you will not know which you'll prefer. They both have advantages.

You do not want... ... the stock Rear Sight Assembly. You have several options here. Armalite offers an excellent National Match rear sight assembly. Smith Enterprise does also. BE WARNED: Some people are selling standard service rifle rear site assemblies as NM. They are not. To be truly NM, the elevation screw can not be the cam system you find on the stock rear sight body. It must be a fine thread. This allows very repeatable adjustments in half moa increments. Also, the windage can be made either quarter or half Moa by utilizing an extra detent ball in the windage knob. Order the quarter moa site and remove the extra ball if you prefer half moa windage. The Armalite NM rear sight is easily changed and is a good value at $75. When ordering from M&A parts or any of the other parts houses, grill them on which NM rear sight they are using. Chances are it is a stock military body with a small aperture. Tell them you do not want that. Get a full blown match sight. Armalite is a good option as is Smith. In addition to these three items, you can special order several other parts as needed. I recommend a NM front sight. This is a front sight post that has been milled down very thin. Depending on your eyesight, you might prefer the thicker stock A2 front sight post. Armalite has this for about $10. A free float tube is a must if you plan on using your sling a lot. I went a year without this and did very well, but I was extra conscious to not use too much sling tension when getting into a shooting position. The free float tube will allow you to tighten up as much as you like without bending the barrel of the rifle. There are several very good DCM legal free float tubes. Do not confuse these with plain free float tubes found on varmint and tactical rifles. The DCM legal tube actually goes under the stock service rifle hand guard, maintaining the original lines of the Service rifle. You may see a little more accuracy out of this product. You are after all totally floating the barrel, an accepted accuracy trick. I saw my 600 yard slow fire ammo go from a .6" average @ 100 yards to a .3" to .4" 100 yards group simply by installing this tube. Expect to pay about $125 for a DCM legal tube. I went with Armalite but there are equally good options out there. Items you do not need I often see supposed NM parts that do little to enhance accuracy. They might be nice looking, but they do not seem to make a difference in terms of the total accuracy of the firearm they are installed in. One example is the Bolt Carrier Group. There are several NM bolt carrier groups on the market and they will cost you a pretty penny. But I seriously doubt you will see a reduction in group size. The AR is a loose weapon. It rattles. It sproings. It makes funny noises. But when the bolt locks into the chamber, it is square enough to work and work well. The stock Bolt Carrier groups is totally acceptable for Service rifle matches. Save your money for a good barrel. Another item that gets people confused is the screw in apertures on some NM rear sights. These are nice items to have as you can pick one to suit your specific eyesight, but do not expect to go to a match and swap these out in an attempt to combat lighting conditions. There is just not enough time. Nor is this needed. If you understand the basics of marksmanship and how light plays with you sight picture, you will never need to change the aperture. Remember, do not get hung up on brand name. I prefer mil-spec parts

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and do not care who the outlet is. Just as long as the parts are NEW, I am satisfied. To break down the High Power March rifle cost for you I will list the major items needed to complete a rifle, minus tools: Lower receiver: $120 True Match grade barrel: $225 DCM Legal Free Float Tube: $125 NM Rear Sight: $75 NM Front Sight: $10 (optional) Trigger group: $125 to $250 Complete Rifle Kit, minus Barrel, Rear Site and possibly Trigger group: N/A. It all depends on the deal you cut with the Parts House. A complete AR15A2 kit from M&A parts goes for $375. Subtract the stock heavy 1:9 twist chrome lined barrel (-$125), and the Rear sight assembly ($35) and the total would be $215. Your total not including tools is $895 not including shipping. Add to that a Turner sling at $45. This is a must. For your efforts you should be able to shoot handloads into .75 or less. My rapid fire load holds .6 to .75 with cartridges designed to fit into the magazine. My long range slow fire load will go into .3 to .5 with bullets seated out too far to fit the magazine. You can ask to have the barrel maker send you a barrel with the chamber cut short to allow you to seat long bullets into the magazine, thus allowing you to use the 80 grain VLD type bullets in the magazine. I didn't bother. I probably should have as eventually I will want to do this. Also, when ordering a barrel, consider the twist rate. 1:9 is a good all around rate. It will handle 50 grain bullets as well as some 75 grain bullets. If you plan on shooting at very long ranges you will want to use the Sierra 80 grain bullets. This will require either a 1:7/8th twist or a 1:8 twist barrel. The 1:8 is sufficient. The military 1:7 barrel is too fast and generally wears out sooner from the friction this high rate of spin causes. The 1:8 barrel is probably the best choice for High Power. I chose the 1:9 twist and am limited to the Sierra 69 grain HPBT or the various 75 grain match bullets for high power matches. This bothers me not a bit as my local matches have little wind to deal with and thus far I have not needed the 80 grain bullet. Still, I would be hard pressed if I ever made it to Camp Perry for the National Matches. A day without wind there I am told, is impossible. If you are even remotely serious about competition, get the 1:7/8 or 1:8 twist barrel. This ends the first part of this article. We eventually plan on listing all the phone numbers and addresses for the various reliable parts outlets. Parts two through four shall follow shortly. In closing, do not short change yourself and your abilities. You can build an AR with only a modicum of skill. Common sense is the biggest asset. If you did not have any of that, you wouldn't be visiting this website, now would you? The AR15 Tactical Carbine The AR15 carbine has been a popular rifle since its introduction. It is handy, easily carried, reliable, sufficiently accurate and gets the job done. It is like an extension of the person carrying it. Building a carbine is easy but there are some new things to consider. Sadly, one has to do with the rather silly law about so called assault rifles. The Pre-ban rifle was no more deadly than the post ban, but politicians always feel the need to look like they are doing something to save mankind from itself, so the ban exists and must be considered when building a carbine. This is less an issue with a full length service rifle, as flash is of little concern - if you happen to want to compete, the loss of the flash suppressor is actually a plus for accuracy! But with the shortened barrel of the carbine, flash and report are increased and frankly, you are best off purchasing a full size pre-ban rifle and just building a carbine upper to augment it. You can usually find a pre-ban rifle, purchase an assembled carbine upper from a parts house, and still pay LESS than what you would pay for a pre-ban carbine. I recently saw several pre-ban AR15A2 rifles in the $840 range and saw a few AR15A1 police cast off's

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for much less. A carbine of the same era can go for as high as $1300. This is a rip off of course and no more than price gouging. I can find little justification for this high price. Therefore the reason for this article. BYOR. Build your own rifle. Trying to build the ideal post ban carbine is problematic. You have to resort to muzzle breaks that are pinned permanently to the barrel and this is less than ideal for several reasons listed in Part 1 of this series. Also, with the short length of the barrel, muzzle blast is already loud. Adding a muzzle break to it will increase the amount of noise the shooter suffers. I recently spent some time next to a post ban ArmaLite rifle with their proprietary muzzle break. It was painful to lay next to and I finally had to get off the firing line in disgust. I have since come to believe that having a normal exposed crown is a better alternative to a permanent muzzle break. It is not as if the 5.56 NATO round has any recoil to worry about anyway. If you want a decent carbine I feel it is worth locating a pre-ban rifle for this project when compared to accepting the compromise forced upon us when trying to make a post ban carbine. I will cover your post ban options at the end of this article. If you already have a pre-ban AR15 you are in luck. This will allow you to swap uppers and create a tactical carbine and swap back when you need the long rifle. The pre-ban rifle, to the best of my knowledge, is grandfathered and you can still install a collapsible stock on it. Check the LAW to be sure. The carbine owner will need one more tool. It is very inexpensive. About $8.00. It is a small metal handle with a finger on it and it is used to remove or install the collapsible stock. If you are sharing one receiver for a long rifle and a carbine this tool is a must for switching the stocks back and forth. You can get the collapsible stock off without it, but not without marring the finish. Assuming you are legal (pre-ban) and good to go, getting a carbine upper is easy. Any number of sources have the necessary parts. We will list the various sources below. You can buy complete upper assemblies, complete carbine kits which have all the parts for the entire rifle minus the lower receiver, or you can purchase carbine barrels to install on your current upper. The options are endless and you can make a carbine in just about any configuration you want. Be Warned When ordering a new upper, do not forget to order a NEW bolt. You CAN order a complete carbine upper without a bolt carrier group to save money, but you should always have a dedicated bolt to match each complete upper assembly. This is a must. As the bolt wears in to match the chamber in which it is being used, it will no longer headspace exactly to another rifle's chamber. It "may" be usable for a time, eventually it will wear in a manner that will allow excessive headspace in another receiver, particularly if you shoot a lot. Spend the money on a new bolt. It is your face. Lets try to save it! Configuration Do you want a tactical carbine? A plain old carbine like the XM177? A carbine for room entry practice? You have seen several options available. Not all Carbines are the same. A Flat Top carbine will allow a large amount of versatility, as you can mount countless optical devices and iron sights. An A1 style upper is a good inexpensive shooter that will work for room entry and limited long range. An A2 type upper gives you more range with its iron sight versatility. My personal feeling is that the Flat Top upper is the only way to go. With it you can configure the rifle for room entry, basic infantry type shooting, medium range tactical shooting (with the appropriate scope) or just out and out plinking. The point is, by design the Flat Top upper allows you to reconfigure the rifle as your needs change. While both the A1 and A2 upper will serve your needs, the Flat Top will do this, and then some. We will assume here that you are limited to a 16" barrel to stay legal. Will you be adding lights, optics, or other tactical gear? There is a wealth of aftermarket and surplus equipment that attaches to the AR15 rifle. Some of it is next to useless and needn't be considered. I rate the 37mm M203 lookalike as one of these. Looks neat. But that is about it. I recently saw a flare fired from one of

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these things and it went all of 40 feet up and 50 feet down range. Worse than useless. My point is, think long and hard before spending good money on a neat toy that you will have zero actual use as a civilian or police officer. If you are not dumping CS gas into a drug house, you do not need to blow money on the M203 attachment. This will also help you out in another area: money. The M4 is the latest version of the AR15 carbine. It is the most versatile and handy to date. With its flat top upper, you have a choice of sighting systems. Kits exist today that include contract M4 upper assemblies. They are somewhat expensive and I would make the case that they are unneeded other than as a unique collectors piece. Why? If you have no plan or need to mount an M203 you have no need for the M4 barrel with its reduced diameter cut aft of the flash suppressor. When you compare the average price of a real M4 upper assembly to an equally effective carbine upper, it becomes harder to justify the difference. For example, a 16" M4 upper assembly may go for anywhere from $500 to $650 depending on dealer. A regular and complete flat top carbine upper assembly with a relatively accurate 16" heavy match barrel (1:9 twist) with an M4 handguard will go for about $300. The only difference between the two will be the lack of a cut in the barrel for the M203 attachment and the heavy barrel of the carbine. In a way, you are getting a better barrel with the Non-M4 upper, for less money. If you want a normal A2 upper and no M4 handguard, expect to pay $260 for a complete upper assembly. Personally, I will never have a carbine without the standard M4 handguard. Once you try it, there is no going back. The larger handguard does away with the main reason the older carbine was somewhat of an annoyance. With double heat shields and a large surface area, the M4 handguard allows you to shoot all day without ever feeling the sting of barrel heat in your hand. The older style grip was next to useless in this department. It was small in diameter and often came without any shielding whatsoever. Extended shooting left your hand covered in sweat and often allowed enough heat to pass through that continued shooting become very uncomfortable. No matter what you decide to build, tell the dealer you want to delete the "shorty" carbine handguard and replace it with a real M4 handguard. You will be very glad you spent the extra money. These run around $40. More from those who wish to gouge. Other handguard options include short aluminum free float tubes and a specialized handguard similar to the M4 but that accepts a wealth of attachments. This one is not particularly comfortable to use but it does have the advantage of multiple uses. Unless you are in some sort of special operations unit, you needn't waste you money on this one. Sight systems A flat top upper receiver gives you unlimited options. But be forewarned, if you plan on having the detachable carrying handle/rear sight as a back up, you might find it impossible to zero the rifle unless you get a handle specifically matched to your barrel - in other words, buy the handle from the same people you purchased the upper receiver and barrel from! Many of these detachable handles will not work with the front sight bases from another manufacturer. It appears that the handles some people are offering are too high in relation to the front sight base and the result is that you can never get your point of impact down to the point of aim. Either the handle is too high or the front sight base is too low. I can not offer a fix for this as I have yet to find a set that works. Every front sight base I have measured - from several manufacturers - has been almost of identical height, but the various detachable handles vary slightly in height. I could get none of them to zero low enough at 25 meters. Eventually I said to heck with it and decided to forget about this handle altogether. Ask about this problem specifically when you order your upper or parts kit. My ArmaLite A2 style handle will not allow me to zero at 25 yards on my mil-spec Flat Top upper. It "may" work on an ArmaLite built upper. I can not say as I do not have one. This problem is well known to shooters but whenever you ask a dealer about it, they look kind of clueless. I do not know if there are different front sight bases on the market, or if the handles themselves are all of differing heights. All I know is that with several different handles the best I could do was get six inches high at 25 yards. As my latest Carbine was built to work as a means to practice room entry and team tactics, I didn't give any more thought to this issue and mounted instead the excellent Aimpoint Comp M.

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Optics The flat top upper allows you a large variety of optics. Some things to consider: If you plan on using a rifle scope, you will need to get high or extremely high ring mounts. If you try to use standard or regular height rings you will find that you have to lay your head over the stock to get a good sight picture. This is neither comfortable or conducive to good marksmanship. Even though you are shooting a carbine, possibly at close range, you still want to be able to maintain good shooting form. Do not expect to mount a standard Mk4 ring on a flat top upper. Do not allow anyone, no matter how well known, to convince you otherwise. I know of one builder who markets a tactical carbine who uses very low rings on his carbines. You just about have to retract your head into your shoulders just to get low enough to see through the scope! And for this discomfort he'll charge you several THOUSAND dollars! Purchase the high or extra high ring set. If you already have a set of standard rings, you can buy an inexpensive riser that will lift the center point of the scope high enough to be functional. Optics range from combat sights to sniper scopes. All can be utilized on a carbine and all have different purposes. My favorite, as stated above is the Aimpoint Comp M or ML. This particular red-dot type scope has a small 3 moa dot and is very good out to ranges that amaze me. The smaller dot allows you to see the target clearly as opposed to some of the other scopes of this type with 7 moa or larger dots. Other excellent options include the AGOG Reflex, the ACOG 4x32, and the ELCAN. All have slightly different uses. Research will show which fits your needs. For close-in work, I felt the Comp M made a lot of sense as you can shoot with both eyes open for total awareness of your surroundings. Police Marksman looking for a good backup or lightweight tactical rifle would of course want a more normal scope of higher magnification. Any number of variable scopes could fit this need. As the ranges are reduced, I'd go with a plain duplex reticle. Barrel options for the carbine General Use For general use a chrome lined barrel is the best option. This is in direct opposition to how I feel about a rifle designed for maximum accuracy. The carbine, while capable of extreme accuracy, is not generally used for sniper ops. It can be used this way, but only out to limited ranges. For the average user, who plans on shooting a lot with minimal maintenance, the chrome barrel is the way to go. Twist rates can be had in 1:7 and 1:9, unless specified otherwise. A rate of 1:9 is the most popular and available. A twist rate of 1:9 will allow the barrel to last much longer than the fast 1:7 rate. There is little reason in fact to go with a 1:7 twist for this project. A 1:9 twist rate will stabilize 50 grain bullets all the way up to 75 grain bullets. Barrels come either in a heavy configuration or in the old lightweight configuration of the AR15A1. I prefer the heavy option. It is more versatile and allows you a certain amount of abuse in terms of sustained fire. It also balances out the rifle nicely without adding much weight to the overall package due to its short length. The carbine in this configuration is not designed for total accuracy. It is a good backup, or spotter's rifle. It is a great entry team rifle. It needn't drill 5 rounds into a half inch at 100 yards. Used on an ERT (SWAT), it may never be used against someone farther than 20 yards away, but is capable of body hits beyond 300 yards when required. A tactical carbine is versatile if nothing else. Precision use For a scoped precision carbine, you should look for a good stainless steel match barrel. A 1:8 twist is ideal but 1:9 will do. Plan on utilizing a free float tube. While is it not necessarily needed on such a short barrel, the extra cost is minimal and this will allow you to use a straight taper bull barrel. Configured this way and topped with a good piece of glass, the rifle can be very accurate and serve well for close range work (100 to 300 yards). It is far superior for police work than the Ruger Mini-14.

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Its accuracy is superior to the Mini-14 and its ergonomic design is better suited as well. The Ruger, while well represented in local law enforcement, has nothing to offer over the AR15 carbine. Attachments There are many attachments for your carbine. Lights seem to be the most popular. Of these, the Sure Fire systems are probably some of the best. There are too many to list, but you can get these in just about any configuration you desire. Beside the barrel, under the barrel, attached to the handguard. Laser sights are another option. I am not a great fan of these, particularly on handguns, but if you do your research, you'll no doubt find one that fits you needs. Sling attachments When employing a carbine the standard sling attachment points are not always ideal due to their location on the bottom of the rifle. With the collapsible buttstock, which moves the rear sling mount to the side, you will want to locate an M4 side attachment for the front sling mount. This devise slips between the barrel and the front sight base and moves the sling mount to the side. It runs about $30. The alternative is the "paper clip" style assault sling clip that attaches to your front sight. It