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Nordstrom Product Group
CONSTRUCTION MANUAL• 1901 – Calibrate – JWN – Nordstrom Signature – Nordstrom Men’s Shop
– The Rail – Treasure & Bond – 14th & Union – Broletto – Public Opinion –Nordstrom Rack – Wallin & Bros
MAY 2019
In reviewing the Construction manual table of content, please reference below diagram to locate the accurate page. Our naming format is as below:
“ 1 – W – pockets – A ” 1st portion is the number of the top main category. (1 for Tops, 2 for Bottoms, 3 for 2pc/Dresses, 4 for General) 2nd portion is the letter for the fabric type. (W for woven, K for Knits, S for Sweaters, G for General) 3rd portion is the descriptive file name 4th portion is the end letter for variations
“1-W-Sleeve Setting-A” for example: this is a construction method for a Top, made with woven fabric, on how to set sleeves, construction variance A As always, please contact your technical designer should you have any questions.
Table of Contents Men’s
1-G-Full Zip Front Sleepwear 1 1-G-Shoulder Pad Set-A 2 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-D 3 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-E 4 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-F 5 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-G 6 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-H 7 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-I 8 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-J 9 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-K 10 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-L 11 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-M 12 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-N 13 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-O 14 1-K-Neck Edge Finish-P 15 1-K-Neck quality point 16 1-K-Neck types 17 1-K-Placket quality point 18 1-K-Placket variation 19 1-K-Pocket-Hanging Pocket Bag- Quality Point 20 1-K-Raglan Seam Finishes-A 21 1-K-Shoulder Seam-B 22 1-K-Sleeve Body Construction 23 1-S-Armhoe Shaping Standards 24 1-S-Hanging Pocket Bag Standards 25 1-S-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns 26 1-S-Matching Standards 27 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-A 28 1-S-Neck Construction Standards-B 29 1-S-Sleeve and Bottom Opening Standards 30 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-A 31 1-S-Sweater Shoulder Construction-B 32 1-W-Back Lining 33 1-W-Back Vent Lining Construction-A 34 1-W-Collars on jackets 35
1-W-Collars-B 36 1-W-Cuff and Sleeve Placket-B 37 1-W-Front Lining 38 1-W-Hem Finish-C 39 1-W-Interlining on Collar Bands 40 1-W-Interlining on Lined Jackets 41 1-W-Interlining Standards 42 1-W-Jacket Darts 43 1-W-Lapel and collar on jacket 44 1-W-Lapel basting 45 1-W-Lining Construction Standards 46 1-W-Matching Plaid Standards-B 47 1-W-Matching Plaid, Stripe or Patterns-C 48 1-W-Placket and Shaped Facing-D 49 1-W-Pockets Inside Leather Jacket 50 1-W-Pockets Inside of Pocket Flaps and Epaulettes 51 1-W-Pockets Inside-A 52 1-W-Pockets Inside-B 53 1-W-Pockets Patch Pockets-B 54 1-W-Pockets Welt Pockets 55 1-W-Seam Binding Unlined Jackets 56 1-W-Sleeve Lining Join at Hem 57 1-W-Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and Fusing 58 1-W-Sleeve Vent Construction on Jackets 59 1-W-Smart Care Taping Standards 60 1-W-Standard Seam Shell & Lining 61 1-W-Taping for Suiting-A 62 1-W-Taping for Suiting-B 63 1-W-Tux Standard 64 1-W-Unlined Jacket Hem 65 1-W-Yoke seam 66 2-K-Seam finish 67 2-W-Alterable CB Standard-A 68 2-W-Body Join Seams 69 2-W-Crotch Piece Standard 70 2-W-Lining Standards-B 71 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-B 72 2-W-Pockets Back Pockets-C 73 2-W-Pockets Coin Pocket-B 74 2-W-Pockets Front Pockets-A 75 2-W-Waist Pleat Standard 76
2-W-Waistband-N 77 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-A 78 2-W-Zipper Fly Closure Terminology-B 79 4-G-Bead and Sequin 80 4-G-Beltloops-B 81 4-G-Beltloops-D 82 4-G-Button Set Quality Points 83 4-G-Button Setting Method-A 84 4-G-Button Setting Method-B 85 4-G-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 86 4-G-Buttonholes Types and Size 87 4-G-Collar Band Button and buttonhole Placement 88 4-G-Fabric handling 89 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-A 90 4-G-Grainline direction dress and sports Shirt-B 91 4-G-Grainline sweater 92 4-G-Hanger loop coats 93 4-G-Hardware Attachment 94 4-G-Pressing-A 95 4-G-Pressing-B 96 4-G-Pressing-C 97 4-G-Pressing-F 98 4-G-Pressing-G 99 4-G-Spare Button Placement-A 100 4-G-Spare Button Placement-B 101 4-G-Spare Button Placement-C 102 4-G-Spare Button Placement-D 103 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-C 104 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-D 105 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-E 106 4-G-Stitch Per Inch-G 107 4-G-Stitch Terminology 108 4-K-Seam Construction Standards-A 109 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-A 110 4-S-Buttonholes and Button Position-B 111 4-W-Standard Seam Types 112
FULL ZIP FRONT STYLES
Quality Point
Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side.
Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck seam, neck, and bottom opening.
Set interlining CF and neck facing.
If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.
001
SHOULDER PAD SET STANDARDS
Shoulder Pad Quality
Use approved quality for shoulder pads.
For unlined jackets, shoulder pads must be covered.
Shoulder Pad Setting in Sleeve
Place the pad so that pad extends past the armhole stitch line, follow specific direction from TD.
002
3 Needle bottom cover stitchat edge
Binding - inside no turn
Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:
3 Needle Bottom Cover stitch at Edge
Binding with 3 needle bottom cover stitch at edge
003
Single thread chain stitch
Binding - inside turned under
Crew Seam Finishes - Bound Neck Edge:
Binding With Single Thread Chain Stitch
Binding with single thread chain stitch
004
2 Needle bottom cover stitchstraddling seam
Inset Neck Trim
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
2 Needle Bottom Cover stitch straddling seam
Inset with 2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam
005
Inset Neck Trim
3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam
Inset trim with 3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam
006
Inset Neck Trim
2 needle 4 threadcover stitch straddlingseam
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
2 Needle 4-Thread Cover stitch Straddling Seam
Inset trim with 2 needle 4 thread cover stitch straddling seam
007
Inset Neck Trim
Single thread chain stitch
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
Single Thread chain Stitch
Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge
008
Inset Neck Trim
Single thread chain stitch
Trim covers back neck join seam
Crew Seam Finishes - Inset Neck Trim:
Single Thread chain and Back Trim
Inset trim with single thread chain stitch on body at edge and trim covering back neck join seam
009
2 Needle Bottom cover stitchstraddling seam
Mitered V Neck
Inset Neck Trim
V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim
2 Needle Bottom Cover Stitch Straddling Seam
2 needle bottom cover stitch straddling seam
010
Inset Neck Trim
Mitered V Neck
3 Needle 5 Thread cover stitchstraddling seam
V Neckline Finishes - Mitered Inset Neck Trim
3 Needle 5 Thread Cover Stitch Straddling Seam
3 needle 5 thread cover stitch straddling seam
011
Inset Neck Trim
2 Needle 4 Thread cover stitchinside needle on join seam
Lapped V Neck
V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim
2 Needle 4 Thread Cover Stitch Inside Needle on Join Seam
2 needle 4 thread cover stitch inside needle on join seam
012
Inset Neck Trim
Lapped V Neck
Lock stitch at edge
V Neckline Finishes - Lapped Inset Neck Trim
Lock stitch at edge
013
Necklines - Neck Edge FinishRequirement for Neck Extended Minimum12” on the half measure (24” total)
Inside Binding- Clean finish with designated fabric bias set to inside- Refer to VCS for binding width
Turn and under stitch to inner binding and close with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401 or if binding is on fold, turn under to inside and single needle topstich down at designated width
Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered
Inside Binding#2B#1 #3#2A Or
Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.
014
Necklines - Neck Edge FinishRequirement for Neck Extended Minimum12” on the half measure (24” total)
Neck Binding- 1/4” binding set with Single Needle Chain Stitch Type #401
Quality Points- Neckline edge must be smooth and flat- Binding must not have roping or be puckered
Seam Type BSc
Binding
015
Neckline Quality Point
Acceptable shaped neckline Unacceptable shaped neckline
016
NECK TYPES
Rib or Self Trim
▪ Set rib trim to body with 4 thread overlock.
▪tape.
Flat KnitCollar
▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread overlock
▪tape.
Self Fabric Collar w/o band
▪
Self or contrast fabric collar w/ band
▪
HoodieX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
XX
x
▪
Rib and Self fabric Mock
U
U
UU
▪ Set rib trim to body with 4-thread overlock with or without top stitch.
▪assigned neck tape quality.
017
FRONT PLACKET
Quality Point▪ Set interlining to top layer of front placket facings.▪ Set interlining to top layer of under placket facings.▪ Set all buttonholes should be set vertically.
018
Placket Variation
Standard Polo Placket
tklP nO ddA w/ Edge Stitch
tklP nO ddAw/ Box Stitch
Hidden Zip Front
E x p o s e dzip Front
019
HANGING POCKET BAG
Quality Point
▪ Made with double layer dye to match self fabric, light weight interlock or tricot material. ▪ Attached to garment with 3 Needle 5 Thread Cover stitch.
020
3-Thread overlock Seam Allowance
Self fabric binding w/single needle lock stitch
Binding - inside turned under -clean finished at join seam
Bound Neck Edge With Over Lock Seams Binding with single needle lock stitch at edge and over locked seam
021
SHOULDER SEAM
Set clear stabilizing tape to back of shoulder seam.
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
All Knit tops should have clear elastic, DTM twill tape, or DTM elastic yarn set to the back shoulder seam asstabilizing tape. Unless it is reglan sleeve, in this case, the tape is not required. When the stabilizing tapeis used, it should be inserted with over edge stitch application, so it is hidden.
Clear elastic, DTM Twill tape,or Self fabric tape
022
SLEEVE AND BODY CONSTRUCTION
1. Join shoulder seam2. Join sleeve cap to armhole3. Close sleeve seam and side seam in 1 operation4. Turn back sleeve and body hem
Stitch as requests in spec pack construction
Note: Do NOT turn back hems before step 3.
2.
1.
3. 4.
Hem should be clean finished at bottom edge
023
ARMHOLE SHAPING STANDARDS
▪Add cast off at underarm of sleeve and armhole for all sweaters whenever it is posible. ▪Set in sleeve - 1/2” cast off. ▪Raglan sleeve - 1” cast off. ▪
Set in sleeve without cast off @ under arm
1/2” cast off @ underarm. Set in sleeve
1” cast off @ underarm - Raglan sleeve
Note:
This eliminates excess pulling or bunching up at the underarm when wearing.
024
HANGING POCKET BAG STANDARDS
Quality Point
▪ Pocket opening can be made with various stitches and will be specified in VCS
▪ Make with jersey stitch continuous piece.▪ Close the both sides of pocket bag by linking.
025
MATCHING PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNSRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes and patterns unless otherwise statedin the specification package.
Matching Standards
Collar Paired and balancedCollar band Paired and balancedCuffs Paired and balancedBack Yoke Prominent stripe/plaid to be centered vertically or
horizontallyFronts Left and right fronts to be paired and horizontally matched
Left and right fronts to be vertically paired from centerPockets Matched horizontally and vertically to the frontBack Prominent stripe/plaid to be centeredSleeves Paired and balanced
sleeve notchFront Plackets Prominent stripe/plaid must be centeredSide seams Matched horizontally
For uneven fabric plaid, stripe or pattern repeats, need to follow special instructions on the VCS.
When selecting matching lines, avoid bright or narrow contrast lines at dart points.
Note:
026
MATCHING STANDARDS
CablesPlace cables balanced between left and right side of garment, unless otherwise specifiedin style specification package. Note: Follow specification package for style specific directions.
Plaids, Stripes, and PatternsRequire 100% matching on plaids, stripes, and patterns unless otherwise stated in the specification package.
TerminologyFully Balanced = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body(Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and /or vertically in each garment.One way match = horizontalTwo way match = horizontal and vertical
Matching Tolerances
0” for presentation areas: center front
027
NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
V Neck
▪▪
Double layer neck trim ▪ Also, it needs to be knotted at beginning
and the end of each linking. These knots will later be secured by linking the neck trim to body.▪
Single layer neck trim▪
Crew Neck
▪ See VCS for construction details
028
NECK CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
Half Zip Mock
▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side panels must be balanced at neck seam and neck opening.▪ Set 5/8” wide full needle rib tape inside of garment. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.
Full Zip Front
▪ Set zipper pull at wearer’s right hand side. ▪ CF Zipper’s left and right side front panels must be balanced at neck and bottom opening.▪ Set 1” wide 5/8” wide full needle rib tape facing. ▪ If buttons are used, set all buttonholes direction per spec pack callout.
Button Front
▪ CF Placket can be made with continuous tape with full needle, rib single layer, or jersey double layer.
▪ Set buttons at wearer’s right hand side and buttonholes at wearer’s left hand side. ▪ Utilize thread shank for the buttons to prevent curves at edge of CF placket after button. ▪ If buttons are used, buttons will mainly be set in the vertical direction. Exceptions will
be defined in VCS.▪ Set neckband button and buttonhole so that when buttoned all buttons align
029
SLEEVE AND BOTTOM OPENING STANDARDS
Variations
▪ 1x1, 2x2, 2x3, or 3x3 Single start rib or double layer layer rib.▪ Jersey tubular or Full needle.▪ Links and links.
Quality Point
▪ Linked seams must be secured to prevent unravel.
030
SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION
lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll
All Sweaters should have clear elastic set to the back shoulder seam, unless the shoulder seam is fully fashioned and set to the back.
Fully Fashioned shoulder seam to back
Clear elastic
031
SWEATER SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION
Tubular Neck Trims - Fine Gauge
Cast off shoulder seam and link together, stabilize with DTM Nylon Taping. Tubular Neck Trims: catch endof DTM Nylon Taping insidetubular when linking neck trim(�ne and chunky gauges)
Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam
Non-Tubular Neck Trims - Fine and Chunky Gauge
Fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at end andtack down along armholeseam
Non-Tubular neck trims:fold under 1/4” or less ofDTM Nylon Taping at endand tack down along necktrim seam. (�ne andchunky gauges)
032
Back Lining for 3/8 lined jackets
033
BACK VENT LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
The lining is seamed along the vent edge on the outside extension. The seam allowance is understitched along the edge of the vent, but not across the top of the vent.
We do not accept mitered corners on vents.
Vent facings should be 1 1/2” + 1/2” seam allowance.
SN/L, 5/16” margin
8 1/2
2”
1 1/2”
24L button
034
SETTING COLLAR
Collar Setting
Under Stitch
Under Pressing
1” 1”
We expect that the collar be “barrel” set to the body. The top collar is set to the front facing and back lining and the under collar is set to the body. The neckline seams are “busted” (pressed open) and the seam allowances are basted together. Stop the collar basting 1” from the collar notch.
After forming the collar and lapel, we expect that the seams along the edges will be under stitched to keep the under collar and lapel from rolling out. The under stitch can be replaced by an under press operation depending on fabric. When edges are top stitched, no under stitch is required.
We expect that collars and lapels be under pressed before continuing to next operation. Please avoid over pressing. Do not create seam impressions and “shine” on the collar and lapel edges.
035
COLLAR STANDARDS
Quality Points
▪▪▪
Collar and collar band operations must be single needle lockstitch, ISO# 301.Collar band must be squared to front edge to avoid gapping between neck seam and the 1st body button. Collar and collar band must be clean finished.
The collar points need to be turned carefully. No visible holes on the corner points.Corner points are well turned and shaped to form a sharp corner or smooth curve.Collar and collar bands must be even and symmetrical.
Construction
Collar Band Collar Stay Pocket
1/16” SN/L Edgestitch
1/16” SN/L Edgestitch3/16” SN/L Stay Stitch
x
Stay Pocke
tAngle pocket according tocollar stay length.
Fold
▪▪
▪
▪
Collar Stay Pocket Requirements
▪▪
Collar stay pocket needs to be angled according to collar stay length.Edge of collar stay pocket is folded for clean finish. Collar stay pocket is formed with single needle lockstitch type, ISO #301.
▪
036
CUFF AND SLEEVE PLACKET STANDARDS
Quality Points
▪ Cuff edge to sleeve placket edge must be even. ▪ On square cuff, the corners need to be turned carefully, so there are no holes in the
corners, and the points are well turned. ▪ Cuffs must be even and symmetrical.
Terminology
BC = Barrel CuffFC = French CuffMC = Mitered CuffAdj = Adjustable Cuff
037
Front Lining
Lining patterns should have extra ease build in over the bust. Ease should be minimal and not create pleats in lining.
038
BOTTOM HEM STANDARDS
▪▪ Stitch through hem must have back tack of 3 Stitches, tolerance +/-1.
Quality points
▪ No tuck, pleats or roping.
Hem must be clean finished with double turn folder or guide & Single Needle Lockstitch Type #301.
039
INTERLINING ON COLLAR AND BAND
COLLAR
Apply interlining to outer collar in direction of grain.Apply bias interlining to under collar.Once the band and collar have been joined, apply stabilizer to the collar band at the neck seam.
Block fusing is also acceptable.
Outer Collar and Band
Under Collar and Band
InterliningAngle of LineRepresentsGrainlineof Interlining
Shell
040
Body Pieces: Layer 1
Interlining: Fully Lined Jackets: Fusing
The front panel should be fully interlined.The Princess, side panels and back are interlined for 2” at the armhole and hem. Upper Back can be stabilized in either of the 2 options:A. Fused PanelB. Lapped Percaline
Exceptions to be confirmed by TD▪Loosely woven fabrics▪Fabric with long floats▪Light weight▪Light color
Front Back
2”
SidePan
2”
Front
2”
2”
OVERLAP PERCALINEAT CENTER BACKTO ADD “GIVE”
OPTION 2 METHODPERCALINE AT BACK
1. Full front2. Under arm3. Bottom hem4. Upper back (2 options) A. Fused panel B. Non fused lapped Percaline
FUSIBLEINTERLINING
041
INTERLINING STANDARDSPlease follow Bill of Materials needed for interlining Quality.
Woven Fusible
The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Bond strength▪Show through▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.▪Verify heat setting on fusing machine at least twice a day.
Woven Non - Fusible
The following testing must be completed for interlining. Results must be included when sending garment for approval.▪Hand feel▪Dimensional stability▪Appearance after wash using assigned care instructionIf you find an interlining that performs better than designated interlining, please make recommendation and submit mock up to Technical Designer.All above tests should be conducted on bulk before production starts.When applying or testing the interlining follow supplier specifications and guidelines for the best results.
042
Dart Construction
The dart stitch should follow the edge of the dart fold for 1” from the end. See Diagram 1a. Diagram 1b is NOT acceptable.
On thicker fabrics, stitch a piece of self fabric into the dart seam to help balance the thickness. See Diagram 2.
Knot off the ends by hand or leave 3/4” of thread chained off from machine. See Diagram 4.
Do not clip the dart open to the very tip. This weakens the seam and can create a hole. See Diagram 3.
DIAGRAMS:1a. 1b.
DIAGRAM:2
DIAGRAM:3
1” 1”
1”1”
KNOTTED END CHAINED END
DIAGRAM: 4ACCEPTABLE METHODS FOR
SEWING OFF DART ENDS
043
Under collar to beshorter and narrower than the top collar
Front
Facing to be longer and wider than body
at top of lapel
Facing to be shorter and narrower than body at bottom edge
LAPEL - Forming Lapel and Collar Lapel
In order for the front facing to roll and lay correctly, make the following adjustments to the pattern
1. Make the lapel point longer and wider by 1/8” - 1/4” 2. Shorten facing by 1/8” - 3/16” at hemline 3. Make 1/16” - 1/8” narrower beginning at hemline. Blending to 0” at breakpoint
Collar
The collar points should roll toward the body. Under collar is smaller then upper collar to have small roll. Ease may need to be adjusted depending on fabric thickness and jacket style. *Steam set the lapel and use slight pressure with hand iron to set the lapel breakpoint.
044
BASTING PEAK LAPEL STANDARDS
3/8”
On a peak lapel, the lapel and collar must be basted so that they do not separate when wearing.Make an invisible basting stitch from the join of lapel and collar to 3/8” from edge to collar.
Fold over collar edge
The front collar edge to fold over onto the undercollar to give a clean appearance.
045
LINING CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS1. All lining construction seams should be the same width as the shell. Lining seams do not have to be
pressed open.2. Form a pleat in the center back of the jacket lining 1” deep.
NON stretch lining should be 1 size larger than shell in girth.
Chainstitch is acceptable for lining construction only.
4”PLEAT OPENS4” BELOWNECK LINESEAM OR 2”BELOW FACINGSEAM
WAISTLINE
Lining
Shell
1/2” Seam Allowance1/2” Seam Allowance
1/2”
1 1/2“ Total Hem depth 1/2” Shell showing
2”
FACING
HEM FINISH STANDARDS
Lined Jackets without Topstitching
Form a 1/2“ pleat at the bottom of the jacket lining. The lining should join to the front facing to form a continuous pleat that grows from nothing to 1/2“ at the facing join.
Lined Jackets with Topstitching: As diagramed below.
Unlined Jackets
Unlined jackets need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine, depending on fabric) under binding. Hand tack at facing edge at allowance.
046
Matching StandardsPlacement Sketch JWN Signature Dress & Sport Shirts Young Mens
Top Collar CBv
Paired (vertically & horizontally)
Paired (vertically & horizontally)
Paired (vertically & horizontally)
Under Collar CBv
Match to top collar (vertically & horizontally)
Paired (horizontally)
Fronts & CF Placket
Balanced & Match (vertically & horizontally)
Balanced & Match (vertically & horizontally)
Match (vertically & horizontally)
Fronts - Bias Paired (Chevron) Paired (Chevron)
Pockets Match (vertically & horizontally)
Match (vertically & horizontally)
Match (vertically & horizontally)
Back
CBv
Balanced (vertically) Balanced (vertically)
Back Yoke CBv Match at CB to top
collar, under collar, outer & inner collar band (vertically)
Match to CB collar (vertically)
Split Back Yoke (Center Back Seam)
CBv Paired - Chevron
(Inverted V Chevron)
Paired - Chevron
(Inverted V Chevron)
Paired - Chevron
Sleeves BackBack Front Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)
Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)
Paired (vertically & horizontally)
Sleeve Top Placket
Match to Sleeve (vertically & horizontally)
Paired (vertically & horizontally)
Cuffs - Outer Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)
Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)
Paired (vertically) & Match (horizontally)
Cuffs - Inside INNER CUFF
OUTER CUFF
Match to outer cuff (vertically & horizontally)
Paired (horizontally)
047
MATCHING STANDARDS FOR PLAID, STRIPE OR PATTERNS
Terminology
Fully Balanced Plaid = A center line with pattern repeat in same order left to right AND top to bottom.
Unbalanced Plaid = No center line, but pattern repeats in same order left to right OR top to bottom.
Prominent Stripe = High contrast of color and/or size of pattern.
Balanced = Prominent Stripe is placed at center of garment (center front or center back)
Paired = Vertical and horizontal stripes fall in the same place on the left and right sides of the body (Horizontal and vertical match is mirrored from left part to right part).
Match = Horizontal and/or vertical alignment of plaid/pattern at seam.
Chevron = Pattern alignment forms a V or inverted V at seam and pattern must be mirrored.
Engineered = Pattern is placed at the same location horizontally and/or vertically in each garment.
One way match = horizontal
Two way match = horizontal and vertical
Continuous Front or Back = Prominent stripe of the plaid is the top center front or center back.▪ Use same top center line for center front placket and for center back (except Rack and Young Men’s)▪ Use same top center line for center of collar (horizontal stripe for Transcript and Young Men’s).
Matching Tolerances
Woven Shirts0” for presentation areas: center front, pocket and split yoke
1/16” for non-presentation areas: yoke to top collar and collar band
Smart Care Woven Shirts1/16” for presentation areas: CF, pocket and split yoke
1/8” for non-presentation areas: Back yoke to top collar and collar band
048
PLACKET STANDARDS
Front edge must be clean finished with SN/L Type #301.Placket and/or facing edge must be clean finished.
Top placket:double turn to face with topstitching
Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L
Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L
Top Placket:Set w/ 2N/Chain double sided folder
Top Placket:Double Turn,No Topstitching
Bottom Placket:Double Turn w/SN/L
French Placket Reversed French Placket Set-on Placket
049
INSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET
5 1/2”
INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKET
5 1/2”
2”
Inside Pockets - Leather Jacket
050
1/4” 1/4”
1/4”
1/8”
STEPPED TRIMMING IS IDEAL
INSIDE OF POCKET FLAPS AND EPAULETTES
Insides of pockets should be sewn with 1/4” seams trimmed to 1/8” at corners.
On straight seams, stepped trimming is ideal.
Pocket flaps are self lined, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.
051
INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKETINSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET
RIGHTARMHOLE
BEASOM(BREAST POCKET)AND TICKET POCKETARE OF LINING FABRICAND SHOULD BE ON THE SAMELEVEL.
POCKETIS OF LINING FABRIC
LEFTARMHOLE
LABEL
LABEL
= Self fabric / Facing = Lining Fabric
Inside Pockets
052
INSIDE LEFT FRONT OF JACKETINSIDE RIGHT FRONT OF JACKET
ARMHOLEARMHOLE
LINING LINING
LINING
14”
Self fabric
8”
10”
Self fabric
Self fabric
Inside Pockets
053
PATCH POCKETS
Invisible stitch patch pockets should be reinforced at the top corners only if requested.
054
INVISIBLE STITCH STANDARD
(STITCH IN THE DITCH)
1/2”
1/2”
LEAVE 1/2” FREE ATBOTH ENDS
BASTING STITCH
TOP STITCH ONLYWHEN SPECIFIED
Angle Welt Pockets
NIARG
WELT POCKETS
Welt pockets should be loosely basted closed with a basting stitch, leave 1/2” open at each end.
Single Welt pockets are to be tacked on both ends with an “invisible stitch” unless otherwise specified.
055
SEAM BINDING IN UNLINED JACKET STANDARDS
For unlined jackets, all body construction seams and hems must be bound with a double-fold binding.
Bust open all seams except for ones that will be topstitched.
Armholes to be bound with both seam allowance sewn together.
In front lined jackets, the side seam needs to be pressed open. Front seam allowance pressed towards front. Back and sleeve seams to be bound as shown below.
Binding fabric for seam binding will be called out in the BOM.
Double—fold binding
Single Fold Binding: Do Not Use
056
SLEEVE LINING JOIN AT HEM
Sleeve Linings
Form a 1/2” pleat at the bottom of the sleeve lining.
Unlined Jackets
Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on fabric) under the binding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.
SEAM JOIN,SHELL TOLINING
PLEAT DEPTH
FROM FOLDOF LINING TO HEM LINEOF SHELL
TotalHem1 1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
INSIDE SLEEVE HEM DETAIL
INSIDEVIEW
SHELL
INSIDEVIEW
SHELL
LINING LINING
BACK SLEEVE
057
Sleeve Setting, Sleeve Head and FusingIf an Automated sleeve setting machine is not available, cap must be preshirred with 1-2 rows of single needle basting or chain stitching. Do not use automated shirring. Shirring must be evenly distributed around the sleeve cap, but should not extend below the arm hole notches.
Sleeve must be set using a lock stitch.
Armhole seam allowance must be clipped at 2” from shoulder point front and back after sewing. Press open the seam allowance at the top of the sleeve cap.
Sleeves need to look the same from left to right.
The sleeve head should be a single piece, long enough to fit between the sleeve cap notches. The sleeve head should sit slightly to the back of the sleeve. Based on fabrication it is acceptable to recommend playful headers or self fabric folded bias as the sleeve head.
FOLD LINE
INTERLINING
SLEEVE HEADER
058
Sleeve Vent ConstructionConstruction should be alterable and not mitered.
For light weight fabrics, roll the seam allowance towards the vent, starting 3” above the vent.
For heavy weight fabrics, clip the seam allowance and press the seam open all theway to the top of the vent.
INSIDE VIEW - VENT DOWN
HEAVY WEIGHT FABRICSLIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS
INSIDE VIEW - VENTFOLDED UP TO SHOWCONSTRUCTION
059
SMART CARE TAPING STANDARDS
Taped seams are indicated with grey shading in the below images. Tape must be applied in sewing and be invisible to the customer.
Full Taping
CF UNDERPLACKET
UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAMBACKFRONT
Partial Taping
UNDER ARM SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET SEAMBACKFRONT
060
STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL AND LINING
Body Construction Seams
All body construction seams, small parts and darts and lining should be sewn on single needle lock stitch machines. Chain stitch is not acceptable. Body construction seams are normally pressed open except when top stitched. We do not accept clipping of seam allowance.
Seams that are covered by the lining can remain raw unless the fabric is a loose weave and need to be over locked to keep from fraying. If the bottom of the lining is left open for any reason, the seam allowances of the body have to be over locked.
STANDARD SEAMING—SHELL ONLY
Body Construction Seams Imperial Measure
Min Max
Body Construction* 3/8” 1/2”
Princess Seam 3/8 3/8”
Collar Set 1/4” 3/8”
Armhole 1/4” 3/8”
Small Parts** 1/4” 1/4”
Shoulder 3/8” 1/2”
Neckline 1/4” 3/8”
Foldback on Hems 1 5/8” 1 3/4”
Note: *Shell and lining. In cases where a style has a wider topstitching, the seam allowance is 1/8” wider than the topstitching.
Note: **Clip corners, but trim curve to 1/8”, step trim straight seams.
061
BODY PIECES: LAYER 2
Lapel and Shoulder Taping
We have found that fusible tapes are more stable and easier to apply than traditional sew in tapes. We prefer non-woven as they add less bulk at the seams when pressed and are more stable. We will accept other methods of taping if the result is neither stretched nor bunched.
Front
The lapel and center front edge should be taped, ending at breakpoint. If the CF hem edge is curved, add taping to stabilize.
Bridle Tape
Bridle tape is not necessary for all jackets. If it is used, fusible tape is recommended. Set bridle tape with tension to hold break line to body.
Shoulder
The tape should be applied to the back shoulder before closing the shoulder seam. The ease should be pressed away after seaming.
FUSIBLE INTERLINING
CHEST PIECE
FUSIBLE TAPING
Front Back
2”
SidePan
062
Front2”
2”
Chest Piece And Taping1. Chest piece: non fusible,
set over fused panel2. Roll Line: fusible tape3. Lapel edge: fusible tape4. Front edge hem when curved: Fusible taping5. Armhole: fusible tape
BODY PIECES: LAYER 2
Armhole Taping
Apply armhole taping in single continous piece with the body seams joined and shoulder seams open (see note below).
FRONT
BACK
Note: The only exception is for Hong Kong and China OPA product. Taping
063
TUX STANDARDSTux - Bib Tux - 4 Button String
Bib Variation includes plain and pin tuck. 4 BUTTON STRING
3-1/2”
3-1/2”
Tux - PleatedPleat Depth = 1/2”
Note: 4 button string used for Bib, All-Over and Pleated Tuxes.
064
Unlined Jackets
Unlined sleeves need to be blind hemmed (hand or machine depending on fabric) with thebinding. Then hand tack at seam allowance.
065
Woven Yokes
▪
▪ Close with SN/Lock and topstitch with SN/Lock if required.▪ Prestitch pleat before setting yoke.
Inner and outer yoke clean finish body panel.
066
KNIT BOTTOM
Front Rise
Inside View
▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along
seam
Back Rise
Inside View
▪ 2N 4 Thread Overedge▪ Clear Stabilizing Tape along
seam
067
ALTERABLE CENTER BACK STANDARDS▪ The seam allowance for alterable waistbands are:
1” at CB seam for Tailored Clothing 3/4” for Sportswear Smartcare1 1/2” for non-Smartcare
▪ Stitch CB seam after waistband is set. This must be a continuous seam from top of waistband seam.
▪ Press center back seam open before stitching down waistband.
3/4“
CB WAISTBAND INSIDE SEAM ALLOWANCE
SEAM ALLOWANCE BLEND TO 1/2“ AT RISE CURVE
CE
NTE
R B
AC
K S
EA
M
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
OVERLOCK
BIAS BINDING
CROTCH SEAM IS STITCHED AFTER WAISTBAND SET.CONTINUOUSTHRU CROTCH POINT.
OPERATION FROM TOP OF WAISTBAND
PRESS CB SEAM OPENBEFORE STITCHING DOWNWAISTBAND
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
Z
ZZ
ZZ
ZZ
Z WAIST SEAM
WAISTBAND
CENTER BACKSEAM
FOLD DOWN CORNERS
OUTER SHELL WBROLLOVER 1/16”TOWARD INSIDE
TAPED W/ LINING
OVERLOCK 1/8”
1/2” INSIDE WAISTBANDSEAM ALLOWANCE
PRESS OPEN
INSIDE
SPLIT CENTER BACK WAISTBANDAND BACK RISE SEAM ALLOWANCE
068
Body Join Seams
Location John W. Nordstrom , Nordstrom & 1901 Transcript
Front Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted
edge and a bartack at crotch / inseam join.
5 Thread Safety Join seam
Back Rise Tandem Double Needle Chain Stitch Busted
edge.
5 Thread Safety Join seam
Inseam Clean set, Single Needle Lock Stitch Busted
edge.
5 Thread Safety Join seam
Outseam Clean set, Single Needle Chain Stitch Busted
edge. Reinforce seam at pocket opening with backtack.
5 Thread Safety Join seam
Hemblind hem.
Bottom.
Needle top stitch
069
CROTCH PIECE STANDARDSTailored Clothing Form a single layer pocketing patch finished with self binding.Placed over the crotch point. Tack on each side to inseam or rise seam allowance.
6” Length x 4 3/4” width Curved Center Seam to follow the shape of the crotch
Front
Back Front
Back
Flat ShapeCurved Center Seam to follow the shape of the crotch
SportswearSet a strip of bias cut pocketing over the seam allowance from bottom of fly facing to 1 1/2” from crotch point.The strip should be a separate piece from fly facing and be clean finished.
070
LINING STANDARDS
Tailored Clothing ▪ Front panel only lined to 2” below the knee notch on pattern for all fabrications except light colored fabrics, ▪ See Production Spec Pack for details on light colored fabric.▪ Set lining with body fabric at side seams and inseam.▪ Cut lining so that bottom edge is on selvage edge.
Sportswear▪ Only Wool, Wool blend, Linen, and Linen blend
dress Pant need to be lined to knee.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXX X
XXX
XXXX
X
XXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XX
X X XXXXX
XXX X
071
Back Pockets
Terminology
Single Welt Pocket Double Welt PocketSingle welt pocket with opening at top. Double welt pocket with even welt widths.
On occasion, double layers of single welt is callout with pocket opening at bottom.
On occasion, a welt with 1/3 and 2/3 width is called out.
072
Back Pocket Setting into Waistband
Tailored Clothing Sportswear▪
▪
▪
▪
UPPER WAIST CURTAIN
LOWER WAIST CURTAIN
INSIDE LINING
POCKETING
A light weight interlining should be used around welt pocket inside of garment for
Pocket bag bottom should be a folded edge to minimize bulge.
Sometimes pocket bag require binding. Follow spec packs for style specific directions.
Pocket facing needs to be fold in with single top stitch clean finish.
073
Inside of left front pocket bag Inside waistbandINSIDE OF RIGHT FRONT(WEARING)
POCKET BAG
FOLD
3“
2 1/2“
3 1/4“
1/2” HEM1 1/4“
INSIDE COINPOCKET
Set coin pocket on side of panel closer to body.
INSIDEWEARER’S RIGHT
BODY
Clean Finish hem3/8” margin
Tack bottom of coin pocket to regular pocket bag.
3 1/4”
3 1/
2”
Coin Pockets
Note: This does not apply to tailored clothing.
074
Outside View
Inside ViewOnseam
Angle
3”
CF
CF
INSIDEWEARER’S LEFT
INSIDEWEARER’S RIGHT
BUSTEDSIDE SEAMS
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXX
XXXXXXXXX
XXX
XXXX
X
XX X
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XX
XXXXXXX
XXXX
▪
▪
▪
POCKET STANDARDS
Front Pockets
Quality PointsA reverse stitch or back tack needs to be applied to inside of garment at side seam for re-inforcement at top and botton of pocket opening. The stitch needs to be 1” long. Bartacks are required to be placed at top and bottom of pocket opening for re-inforcement.Body fabric facing is required at both side of pocket opening to prevent the pocket bag from exposed at face side of garment.
075
Box Pleat Double Pleat
PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN FROM THE W/B ON INSIDEOF GARMENT.
1-1/2“ PLEATDEPTH
5/8“ PLEATDEPTH
Single Pleat
PLEAT SEWN 1/2” DOWN FROM THE W/B ON INSIDEOF GARMENT.
1“ PLEATDEPTH
FRONT PLEAT STANDARDSTerminologyMen’s tailored clothing have either one, two or no pleats at front (flat front). Both pleats open toward the side seam.In addition to two pleats opening toward the side seam, Men’s Sportswear also has a varia-tion in which the pleats are box pleats.
076
WAISTBAND STANDARDS- All waistbands for Men’s brands product should be set with single needle lock stitch machinery. - For dresswear, we do not accept waistbands set in one operation on folder equipment. - Denim jeans with straight waistband may be set with a folder machine. - Waistbands can be cut and fused in blocks, then trimmed and notched. - Young Men’s waistbands are style specific. See production spec packs for details.
Waistband Finish Terminology
Dressmake Waistband Two-piece Waistband
▪ Waistbands in Men’s Tailored Pants are made with
polyester lining piping, and heavy interlining.▪ Tack waistband lower curtain down at
approximately 12 points in inconspicuous areas, such as pocketing or seams.
▪ A two-piece waistband is used for most sportswear.
Lower Curtain
UpperCurtain
Waistband
Piping
Interlining Waistband
InsideWaistbandSelf fabricBind
ing
One-piece Waistband
▪ A one-piece waistband is used in some sportswear.
Waistband
Binding
077
Front Closure TerminologyTailored Clothing
The tab closures can be pointed or squared depending on the styling of the garment.
Sportswear
The tab closures can be pointed or rounded depending on the styling of the garment for Type One.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXX
XXXXXXX X X
X XX
X X X X
X X X X
XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
X X
XXX
X X X X
X
X X X
XXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXX
XXXX
XXXXXXX
X X X XXX X X X X X X X
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX X XXXX X X X XX X X
U
Bullnose Fly Closure
3-1/4”
2 1/4”
1/2”2 1/2”
Bullnose Fly Closure Tab Closure Type Two
Insd
ie V
iew
Out
side
Vie
w
078
Straight Closure with One Buttons Straight Closure with Two ButtonsIn
sdie
Vie
wO
utsi
de V
iew
Tab Closure Type One Tab Closure Type Two
Insd
ie V
iew
Out
side
Vie
w
Cut on bias
Cut on bias Cut on bias
Cut on bias
Cut on bias
Cut on bias
Cut on bias
3”
3”
2”
2”
079
Bead and Sequin Sewing Specifications- Tie off on every sixth bead or sequin.
080
BELTLOOP STANDARDS
Beltloop Placement6 Beltloops 8 Beltloops▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 30-33 ▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 28-36
▪ Men’s Tailored: Placement for sizes 34-46▪ Sportswear: Placement for sizes 38-48
# 1 # 2 # 3
CE
NTE
R F
RO
NT 2” from
centerback
# 1 # 2 # 3 # 4
CE
NTE
R F
RO
NT
2” from centerback
081
BELTLOOP STANDARDS
Beltloop FormationTailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim▪ Fold raw edges to inside of loop ▪ Finish with blind stitch
▪ Form with beltloop folder▪ 2N cover bottom
Beltloop SettingTailored Clothing and Sportswear Smartcare and Denim▪ Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from
waistband seam▪Tack belt loop down at 1/4”—3/8” from waistband seam
082
▪▪▪
2 Hole - Parallel Stitch 3 Hole - Triangle 4 Hole - Parallel 4 Hole - X-Stitch
Quality Points
Buttons set on wearers right sideButtons set center line unless otherwise specified on spec pack Mark button position after making button holes
Button Setting
Terminology
▪
▪
▪
Machine Set Button
Hand Set Button
NPG requires Lockstitch button sew Type #304.Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.
Must be set with double strand thread.▪ Thread must be trimed at inside of garment.
083
▪
▪▪
▪▪
▪
▪
▪
▪
▪▪
BUTTON SET
Button
Machine Set Button
NPG requires Lock Stitch button sew Type #304
Button Sew Thread (POV)Use Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specified on VCS4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per hole)
Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open
Pinch tuck catching top layer only
Hand Set Button
Must be set with double strand thread Thread must be concealed when collar is worn open
Pinch tuck catching top layer only
Button Sew ThreadUse Tex 40 Core Thread unless otherwise specificed 4-Hole Button, set with 16 threads (4 threads per
Parallel2-Hole Button, set with 8 threads (4 threads per hole)Knotting must be secured and hidden
2 Hole
4 Hole
084
BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLE STANDARDS
Button Setting Method
We prefer buttons to be set with lock stitch machines and finely finished on underside. If only chain stitch machines are available, please be sure the cycle is correct so that the last stroke locks the chain on the inside of the garment.We do not set buttons with an “X” stitch. We make two horizontal stitches on a lock-stitch machine.
Shanks (Wrapping)
The length of the thread shank should be determined by the thickness of the fabric. The button should hold the garment closed without distort-ing the buttonhole.Buttons with shanks should not be wrapped.
Thread
Match the thread color to the button unless otherwise stated in the spec pack. Use Perma Cored or equivalent Tex 40 button sewing thread for buttons. Do not use thread designed for single needle or over lock machines.Note: For inside buttons and hook & bar, fuse fabric to add strength ifneeded.
085
▪
▪▪
▪
▪
▪
FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE
ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE
LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE
Straight
Keyhole
BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION
Buttonhole Type
Must be Lock Stitch Type #304
Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons
Buttonhole Thread
Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified
Button Thread Color
Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM
Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified
086
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv vvv
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
VV
VVV
V
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
VV
VVV
V VV
VVV
V1/16” apart
BUTTONHOLES
The buttonhole should be clean. Loose or fraying threads are not acceptable. Buttonhole should not stretch out the fabric or cause damage to the weave.
Loosely woven fabrics, refer to Number 3.
Leather and suede garments must have bound buttonhole, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.
1. Keyhole Buttonholes
2. Bound Buttonhole
3. For Loosely Woven Fabric - edge stitch is added to prevent fraying
Note: Buttonholes on sleeve should be non-functional, unless otherwise stated on the VCS.
087
CFCF
Collar Band Button and Buttonhole Placement
Button is placed 1/8” off center to maintain collar band
length and to keep placket aligned top to bottom. Button hole is placed 1/8”
off center front line.
088
FABRIC HANDLING
Fabric InspectionNPG requires The 4-Point System and Fabric Sampling Plan.Refer to the Fabric Inspection Guidelines link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.
Flaws/DefectsProduction Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.▪ Please contact NPG Production Developer ▪ Production Planner may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision
Minimum of 1 yard full widthSpreading and CuttingNPG does not accept Drill Holes.Refer to the Process Inspection link on the Nordstrom Supplier Web site.
Shading
Fabric must be shade sorted.All cut parts must be identified with an appropriate numbering system.▪ If adhesive stickers, paper tags or chalk is used for numbering cut parts, they must be
removed before pressing If there are Shading issues:▪ Please contact NPG Product Developer ▪ Product developer may require samples to be sent for evaluation/decision
Minimum of 1/4 yard full width
Production Planner may advise shade grouping to allow distribution by DC or store.Note: Follow Visual Construction Sheet (VCS) for style specific directions
Cut DirectionNapped fabrics: 1 way, nap upNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way
Cut Direction - KidsNapped fabrics: Nap down unless otherwise speci�ed in teck packNon-napped fabrics: 2 way Directional fabrics: 1 way
089
GRAIN LINE STANDARDS
Dress Shirt Grainlines
Used for patterns or solid fabrications.
Sport Shirt Grainlines
Used for shirts without split back yoke or with Twill fabrications with split back yoke.
These standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.
090
GRAIN LINE STANDARDSThese standards should be followed for all woven shirts, unless otherwise stated on the spec pack details or construction sketch for style specific directions.
Piece StandardCollar/Under Collar Cross grainCollar band Cross grainCuffs Cross grainBack Yoke Cross grainSplit Back Yoke Shoulder seam is grainline forming ChevronBody Straight grainPockets Straight grainSleeves Straight grainFront Plackets Straight grainSleeve Placket Straight grain or bias
091
KNIT DIRECTION
For all solid fabrications, body, sleeve and inside panels are cut on straight of grain.These standards should be followed for all knit tops, unless otherwise stated on the VCS for style specific directions.
092
HANGER LOOP SETTING STANDARDS
Coats
2”
Closed 1.5-2”from neckseam line
Center Back pleat in lined products only 1” deep
CB
Hanger loops are required in all coats. The loop should be made from lining. It can be 3/16 -1/4” wide. Set hanger loop over CB seam so that when the loop is laying flat, it is 2” in length.
093
HARDWARE ATTACHMENT
For Snaps( 4-Part and Prong), Rivets, and Jeans Buttons
▪▪▪▪▪
▪
▪
▪▪
C
094
PRESSING
▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation andpresses
▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable
Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.
095
PRESSING - MEN’S WOVEN TOPS
▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting.▪ Finish product pressing completed to meet following quality points.
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling.▫ Heat settings on presses must be checked twice a day.▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable.▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable.▫ Over pressing not acceptable.▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable.
Pressing variations will be called out in specification packages as needed.
Back Pleats
The back yoke pleats should be pressed to the armhole drop.
Wrinkle-Free Shirts
Ensure that the center crease on the sleeve, the sleeve pleats and the back yoke pleats are well pressed.
PRESSING - ALL MEN’S EXCEPT WOVEN TOPS
▪ Interlining must be applied as per Supplier specification ▫ Must test heat setting at least twice a day at fusing operation and presses
▪ Pockets must be pre-creased before setting▪ Inline pressing completed as required per operation▪ Finished product pressing must meet following quality points:
▫ All seams must be smooth, without rippling▫ Pressure setting on presses must be checked twice a day▫ Sleeve must not be creased on top sleeve line▫ Seam impressions or lay in creases not acceptable▫ Fabric or seam shine not acceptable▫ Over pressing not acceptable▫ Double edge press/crease not acceptable
Note: Follow VCS for style specific directions.
096
PRESSING - DARTS
We expect that all body seams, darts and small parts be under pressed. Avoid over pressing.A straight seam can be pressed on a flat board. If it has a curve, it should be pressed on a curved board so that the silhouette is maintained. Darts should be pressed with the end over the curve of a board to prevent a bubble. Press a dart from the widest part (usually the waist) towards the end
097
Leg Crease
▪▪ Crease runs from the inner fold of 1st pleat to the bottom of the pant for double pleat pants.
098
PRESSING STANDARDS
▪▪▪▪▪
▪
099
InsideWearer’s right
EXTRA BUTTON PLACEMENT
Extra Button:Placed at pocket bag seam.
1/2”
1/4” BUTTONSPACINGEXTRA TROUSER
BUTTON
SPARE BUTTON PLACEMENT STANDARDS
Sportswear / Rail
Clothing
▪▪
Place spare button inside a 5cm (W) X 7cm (H) poly bag. Insert bag inside wearer’s left interior chest pocket.
John W. Nordstrom Signature, John W. Nordstrom & Calibrate
100
Spare Button Placement
▪▪▪
▪▪▪▪
OUTSIDERIGHT FRONT PLACKET
HEM
18L14L
CA
RE
LAB
EL
1/2”
1/4”
18L
14L
16L1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
CA
RE
LAB
EL
OUTSIDERIGHT FRONT PLACKET
HEM
JWN Signature Dress JWN Dress Shirts1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for medium button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
101
Spare Button Placement
▪▪▪
▪▪▪
1/2”
3/4
16L
14L
CA
RE
LAB
EL
OUTSIDERIGHT FRONT PLACKET
HEM
OUTSIDE RIGHT FRONT PLACKET
HEM
3/4”
1”
Calibrate, 1901, Rack and 14th & Union Dress Shirts
Nordstrom Dress Shirts
1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
102
▪▪▪▪
▪▪▪
18L
14L
16L1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
OUTSIDERIGHT FRONT PLACKET
HEMINSIDE LEFT SIDE SEAM
4” ABOVE HEM
CARE LABEL
ID LABEL
BLANK LABEL
Spare Button Placement
Broletto Dress Shirts Sport Shirts, Rail, and Rack1 extra button for larger button ligne. 1 extra button for larger button ligne.
1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to blank white label.
1 extra button for medium button ligne. 1 extra button for smaller button ligne.Sew extra buttons to top of underplacket.
103
KNIT PRODUCT
THREADS AND STITCHES PER INCH REQUIREMENTS
▪ Preferred suppliers are A & E and Coats▪ For seam join use Texturized Polyester▪ For top stitching use Spun Polyester
Stitch Per Inch Guideline Location SPIInternalStitching
12 +/- 1
Topstitch 12 +/- 1Button Sew 18 (“X” B/Tk) lockstitchButton hole 24 +/- 1 (B/Tk)
Note:
decorative stitching.
Young Men’s stitch per inch is style specific. See production spec packs for details.
104
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Dress Shirts
John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Broletto
Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate, 1901, Rack & 14th & Union
Regular Non-Iron RegularSmartcare & Non-
IronSPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1
Sport ShirtsRegular Smartcare
Heavy Gauge Thread
SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1
Young Mens
Shirts RegularHeavy Gauge
Thread
SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1
105
STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Button sew includes the lock of the button sew as the last cycle (9th stitch).
Woven SleepwearStitch Requirement PJ Sets and Sleep Pants
Regular FlannelStitching 16±1 14±1Topstitch 16±1 14±1Bartack 42 ± 1 42 ± 1Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles
Knit SleepwearStitch Requirement Top and Bottom
Stitching 12±1Topstitch 12±1Bartack 40±1Button Sew 9 cycles
Robes
Stitch Requirement
Shawl-Collar Robe
Kimono Robe
Maxi Hooded RobeRegular Terry
Stitching 16±1 12±1Topstitch 16±1 12±1Bartack 42±1 40±1
UnderwearStitch Requirement Knit Top and Bottom Woven Boxer
Stitching 12 ±1 12-14Topstitch 12 ±1 12-14Bartack 40 ± 1 42±1Button Sew N/A 9 cycles
Note:
stitching.
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STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Woven BottomLabel
JWNJohn W. Nordstrom & Nordstrom
Transcript Young Men’s
InternalStitching
20 ±1 12±1 8 ±1 16 ±1
Topstitch 20 ±1 12 ±1 8 ±1 16 ±1Decorative N/A N/A 9 ±1 N/ABartack 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1 24 ± 1Button Sew 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cycles 9 cyclesButton hole 18±1 24±1 24±1 18±1
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We follow the Stitch Terminology as recongized by International Organization for Standardization.
Please reference below:
https://www.iso.org/standard/10932.html
http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-education/glossary/stitch-terminology-glossary/
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SEAM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS
Location Stitch
Collar Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch
ShoulderSeam
2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge
Placket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch with 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge
Pocket Clean Set, Single Needle Lockstitch
Armhole 2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge
SleeveSeam
2 Needle 4Thread Overedge
Side Seam Underarm
2 Needle 4Thread Overedge
Cuff 2 Needle 4Thread Overedge
Hem As per spec pack
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▪
▪▪
▪
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Straight
Keyhole
BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION
Buttonhole Type
Must be Lock Stitch Type #304
Buttonhole LengthInside length to equal button diameter Adjustment for length may be required for thicker buttons
Buttonhole Thread
Use same Thread and Tex size as join seam thread unless otherwise specified
Button Thread Color
Match button color unless otherwise specified on VCS or BOM
For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density
Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.
For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density
Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.
ChunkyGauge
For Buttons Size 18L and smaller;recommend 152 Thread density
Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.
For Buttons Size 20L and larger; recommend 200 - 250 Thread density
Top of B.H. Bottom of B.H.
ChunkyGauge
Button Hole Standard
Fine Gauge Chunky Gauge
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BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTON POSITION (cont’d)
▪▪▪
Quality Points (Women’s only)
Buttons set on wearers left Buttons set on center line unless otherwise specified on VCSMark button position after making button holes
▪
FIRST BUTTON SHOULD BE AT TOP OF BUTTONHOLE
ALL BUTTONS BETWEEN 1STAND LAST SHOULD BECENTERED ON BUTTONHOLE
LAST BUTTON SHOULD BE ATBOTTOM OF BUTTONHOLE
Button PositionMust be vertical, unless otherwise specified
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STITCHING STANDARDS
Stitches per Inch (SPI) Standard
Dress Shirts
John W.Nordstrom, JWN Signature & Broletto
Nordstrom Men’s Shop, Calibrate, 1901, Rack & 14th & Union
Regular Non-Iron RegularSmartcare & Non-
IronSPI 20 ±1 16 ±1 18±1 16 ±1
Sport ShirtsRegular Smartcare
Heavy Gauge Thread
SPI 18±1 16 ±1 10 ±1
Young Mens
Shirts RegularHeavy Gauge
Thread
SPI 12 ±1 10 ±1
Standard Seam TypesDescription Construction Top ViewShoulder Set with Yoking Seam or
Seam, Fold & Cord
Armhole Set with Sleeve Set Seam
Side Seam & Underarm
Set with Faux French Seam
Set with Felled Seam
Set with 5 Thread Safety stitch
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