noble fruits a guide to conserving heirloom apples

Noble Fruits A guide to conserving heirloom apples 1

A guide to conserving heirloom Apples

Noble Fruits


slow Food usA developed this resource guide for local chapters that are

interested in getting more involved in conserving heirloom apple diversity.

Surely the apple is the noblest of fruits.

henry david thoreau, Wild Apples

A is for Apple: the basics of apple conservation

the core: a few profiles of chapter-initiated apple projects

the seed: project ideas

Apple picking: a region-by-region guide to apples in need of attention and orchards and nurseries that carry them

Pg 2

Pg 3 –5

Pg 6

Pg 7 – 14

in this guide you will find:


A is for AppleApples Are eNdANgered?it’s true—those brightly polished rows of fruit stacked year-round in your grocery store are under threat of extinction and not in the way you would think. Apples as a species are well established, but the majority of known apple varieties are desperately close to extinction, being grown in fewer than three orchards. Just a century ago, there were over 15,000 distinct apple varieties grown on u.s. soil. today, only 11 varieties regularly appear on supermarket shelves. red Delicious alone accounts for 60% of all apples grown and eaten in the u.s.

Why is biodiversity importANt?thanks to the fact that such a high percentage of apple trees produce the same few apple varieties, the gene pool that apples can draw from is perilously shallow. shallow gene pools have a hard time defending themselves against outbreaks of pests or diseases; many experts believe that the irish potato famine could have been avoided if farmers were growing a wider variety of potatoes.

in the four hundred years since apples were brought over to North America from Kazakhstan (and later spread across the continent by Johnny Appleseed) they have come to hold a key position in u.s. heritage, food traditions, and orchards. Heirloom fruits and vegetables are living links to our past, and to lose them would be to lose a part of our history.

Why Apples?the renewing America’s Food traditions (rAFt) Alliance is a group of organizations that share a common vision of a future where people have a stronger connection to the history of their food and take pride in actively conserving their regional food culture. rAFt believes that apples can serve as a delicious gateway to deeper engagement in biodiversity conservation, and so declared 2010 to be the Year of the Heirloom apple. this guide was released by slow Food usA in observance and celebration of that event, and is a companion resource to the rAFt publication Forgotten Fruits Manual and Manifesto: Apples.

Apple vocAbulArybefore you begin, here are some words you should know. orchardists prefer growing apple trees using a technique called stem grafting. scion or scionwood (a cutting of tree tissue) is carefully selected from a parent tree with desirable fruit characteristics. the scion is then joined with a cutting from a tree with an established root system called rootstock in a process known as grafting. the process of passing down scionwood through several generations of family and friends makes a tree an heirloom variety.

Volunteer trees are small saplings that grow out of the root system of a mature tree, or have sprouted naturally from fallen apples. Finding a good volunteer is a rare treat, as they generally produce small, bitter fruit. the volunteers that grow spontaneously from seed are also known as pippins. some pippins are so delicious that they become popular sources of scionwood, but most produce undesirable apples.

A is for Apple

Check out “the Forgotten Fruits Manual and

Manifesto: Apples” for a more in-depth study of

the root causes of the decline in apple diversity.

Download it for free at www.raftalliance.org


the coreHere’s what a few slow Food usA chapters are doing to conserve apple diversity and apple culture in their regions. Don’t hesitate to email the project leader if you’d like to learn more! is your chapter already involved in apple conservation, but you don’t see your project listed below? email [email protected] so we can include your project in future publications.

sloW Food russiAN river & the sebAstopol grAveNsteiN Applethe delicate late-summer Gravenstein apple, first planted in sonoma County, California in 1820 by russian trappers once filled bay area orchards, only to be pushed out of the marketplace by sturdier apple varieties that ship better and last longer. Add to that suburban development, the conversion of apple orchards to vineyards, and overall decreased apple production—the Gravenstein was soon in trouble. in 1958, 5,449 acres of Gravensteins flourished in the u.s. Just fifty years later, production plummeted to fewer than 900 acres.

Determined to reverse that trend, slow Food russian river leads a project to build awareness about the Gravenstein apple and support Gravenstein farmers. Not only does the chapter sing the apple’s praises at county fairs (not to mention posters and bumper stickers) but they also organize a restaurant project, asking chefs to feature the apple on their menus throughout the month of August. seventy-five restaurants participated in the first year, including berkeley’s Chez Panisse and Yountville’s the French laundry. because of the chapter’s hard work, demand for fresh Gravensteins continues to increase which means local farmers are filling their orchards with endangered heirloom varieties.

For more information visit http://www.slowfoodrr.org or email project leader Paula shatkin at [email protected]

sloW Food NeW yorK city & the NeWtoWN pippiNit’s hard to imagine the big Apple as a major producer of fruit, but not so long ago, it gave birth to one of our country’s most celebrated apple varieties. the Newtown Pippin apple—developed in Queens, New York as early as 1730—was later a staple of the orchards at thomas Jefferson’s estate, Monticello. Despite its versatility, rich history, and wonderful flavor, the Newtown Pippin was nowhere to be found in New York state until slow Food New York City decided to take action. Members of the chapter tracked down 85 young trees in an out-of-state orchard, and distributed them to farmers who now sell the pippins at New York City farmers’ markets. the chapter now focuses on getting the Newtown Pippin planted in public spaces throughout the city such as New York City’s first public access orchard at randall’s island Park, and is campaigning to make the Newtown Pippin the official apple of the big Apple.

For more information visit http://www.newtownpippin.org or email project leader ed Yowell at [email protected]

the core

Gravenstein apples Photo, slow Food russian river.

slow Food russian river held a photo exhibit showcasing the faces and hands of the growers that bring Gravenstein apples to fruition.Photo, Arthur Perley.


sloW Food moNAdNocK & the moNAdNocK heritAge Nurserythe Granite beauty apple, which originated before 1815 in Weare, NH, was considered functionally extinct before the Monadnock Heritage Nursery got involved. the Monadnock Heritage Nursery, started by slow Food Monadnock co-leader ben Watson, preserves and distributes rare and regional varieties of fruit trees to home orchardists and others throughout the Monadnock region of southwest New Hampshire. in just two years of work, the nursery sold over 100 trees to home orchardists and garden centers. All proceeds from tree sales support the nursery and the slow Food Monadnock chapter’s local initiatives.

Nurserymen and nurserywomen from Monadnock Heritage Nursery also educate the public in the forgotten skills of orcharding, such as grafting and pruning. each winter the nursery exchanges scionwood (tree cuttings) with other orchards, grafts the scionwood onto rootstock, and grows out non-native apple varieties in trials to see how they perform in New england. in 2010, the nursery saw the fruits of its labor: enough rootstock of the Granite beauty apple had been made to distribute to orchardists nationwide through the Fedco trees catalog. After this successful work with rare and historic apple varieties, Monadnock Heritage Nursery expanded to preserve and distribute a greater variety of grafted fruit trees, such as peaches, pears, and cherries.

For more information visit http://www.slowfoodmonadnock.com/chapter-projects/heritage-apple-project/ or email project leader ben Watson at [email protected]

sloW Food blue ridge & the Apple corpsDiane Flynt noticed a trend. As the owner of Foggy ridge Cider in Dugspur, VA, she hosted grafting workshops at the Foggy ridge orchards. During these workshops, many participants shared fond memories of a particular type of apple, from their grandparents’ farm or childhood backyard, but they couldn’t recall the last time they had tasted one. these stories gave Diane, a member of slow Food blue ridge, an idea: Why not collect apples—both named varieties and wild apples–that have value and meaning, but are in danger of becoming lost? With that idea, Apple Corps was born, an organization where members collect uncommon apples in the fall and learn to propagate new apple trees in the spring with the help of local apple experts like tom burford. slow Food blue ridge helps to promote this project by hosting apple tastings and encouraging local orchardists and home gardeners to grow rare and endangered apple varieties identified by the Apple Corps team—thus reversing the trend of loss of diversity.

For more information visit http://www.slowfoodblueridge.org or email project leader Diane Flynt at [email protected]

sloW Food reseArch triANgle North cAroliNA & lAKeWood elemeNtAry schoollakewood elementary school in Durham, NC already had a well-established school garden when slow Food research triangle NC found a way to take the garden to the next level by planting heirloom apple trees. Having trees in school

the core

What approaches can you use to educate your community about apple diversity? Here, slow Food blue ridge holds a tasting of local apple varieties.


gardens creates year-round learning opportunities, and unlike many crops that ripen over the summer, apple harvest falls during the school year. the slow Food project leaders worked with a local family-owned orchard to pick out five rare heirloom apple trees that would appeal to their young gardeners based on color, taste, and history. the planting ceremony in January 2009 and apple celebration later that year brought together parents, teachers, students, and neighborhood residents. since apple trees don’t produce fruit until they reach maturity, lakewood students also learn a real lesson in the value of patience!

For more information visit http://www.slowfoodtriangle.org or email project leader Anna Child at [email protected]

sloW Food pittsburgh & Apple Festsoon after moving to the area, slow Food Pittsburgh member Donald Gibbon noticed that the small orchards that had been a picturesque part of the Pennsylvania landscape were beginning to disappear. inspired by Michael Pollan’s Botany of Desire and Frank browning’s Apples: The Story of the Fruit of Temptation, Donald decided to start an annual event to promote local apples. slow Food Pittsburgh, in conjunction with other local agricultural and environmental groups, hosted AppleFest for the first time in the fall of 2006 and continues to host this popular community event each year. in addition to marvelous apple-based food available to taste and purchase, the event features music, art, performances, and a highly celebrated apple pie baking competition. All pie entries must be made entirely from scratch using apples from local farms; both farm and apple variety must be identified on the pie’s label. the festival helps to raise local awareness about the unique and diverse apples available to residents, and also benefits the local farmers who provide apples and cider to the festival for sale and tasting. Volunteers even travel to pick up apples from the local farms so that farmers do not have to give up a day of work. some of the unique varieties featured at the festival include Monroe, opalescent and stayman.

For more information visit http://www.slowfoodpgh.com/ or email project leader Donald Gibbon at [email protected]

sloW Food WiscoNsiN southeAst & the milWAuKee Applein 2009, no one in Milwaukee, Wisconsin could remember tasting the Milwaukee apple, but slow Food Wisconsin southeast (Wise) is working to change that. slow Food Wise members teamed up with expert orchardists to create pippins of the Milwaukee apple and other rare varietals, including Pewaukee and oneida, from Maple Valley orchards in Gillett, Wisconsin. Volunteers grafted and planted the pippins in late May 2010 at the historic stahl Conrad Homestead, a tiny nursery that was once a large orchard. Apple activists, chefs, and orchardists patiently wait with anticipation for the Milwaukee apple trees to bear their first fruits. until then, chapter members continue to host events that celebrate local food heritage as a way of investing in the future.

For more information visit http://foodbiodiversity.yolasite.com or email project leader Jennifer Casey at [email protected]

the core

slow Food Pittsburgh organizes an annual celebration of regional apple varieties, including a pie baking competition where all apples must be locally sourced. Photo, Don Gibbon.


the seedHere are some project ideas to get you started, or to take your chapter’s current conservation efforts to the next level.

ideAs For the Apple eNthusiAst:u organize a fresh apple tasting or cider tasting to give people the chance to fall

in love with regional varieties.u Pay attention to which restaurants in your city list the apple varieties on their

menu by name. encourage more restaurants to consider the practice, and thank the restaurants that already do so.

u Ask your grocery store if they’d consider stocking a broader range of apple varieties, or apples that are locally grown.

u Help orchards promote their favorite heirloom varieties through events and educational signage at farmers markets. You can download a free PDF sign of any apple on the us Ark of taste from www.slowfoodusa.org/arkoftaste.

u take a look at the regional list of endangered apples at the end of this project guide. if there’s an apple variety with a connection to your area, consider adopting the variety as the centerpiece of your chapter’s biodiversity efforts.

ideAs For the ArdeNt Apple Activist:u organize a field trip to a local orchard.u Get people together to make applesauce, apple butter, pie filling, and other

apple preserves. experiment with different apple varieties in each recipe.u Come up with creative ways to get the word out about regional apple diversity,

based on the skills of your chapter members: include a fact about apples in every email your chapter sends to its members for a month; organize a photo exhibit of the orchardists in your area; create a flyer with apple diversity statistics that you can have out on the table at chapter events.

u support the creation of new apple orchards and the restoration of neglected orchards by partnering with a local orchardist.

ideAs For the Apple obsessed:u Find space to plant heirloom apple trees in city parks, backyard and

community gardens, schools, and other public places. Plan a public planting day celebration and invite local press to cover the event.

u organize an event highlighting the different uses for different varieties of apples. invite a knowledgeable chef to talk about how each apple variety is unique and best suited to different uses, from eating out of hand, to pies and pastries, drying or preserving, applesauce, cider making, etc.

u organize a field trip to collect apples or scionwood from an abandoned orchard. take notes on what you find and ask an apple expert for help in identifying the varieties. see the rAFt Forgotten Fruits Manual and Manifesto: Apples for suggestions on how to document your findings.

u Ask a local orchardist to lead a workshop on apple tree maintenance and propagation (grafting, pruning, mulching) so that people know how to get the most out of their heirloom trees.

u interview a traditional apple orchard-keeper for an oral history account of his or her work.

the seed

the resurgence of artisanal cideries is a boon to apple diversity, as most cider apples are too tart or acidic for other purposes. Consider hosting a cider tasting to learn about regional apple varieties.


Apple pickingour partners and consultants in the rAFt Alliance have scoured decades of seed catalogs, interviewed a cadre of lifelong orchardists, and sifted through tens of thousands of pages of historic documents to create conservation priority lists of the 90 most endangered apple varieties in several regions of the country. We’ve chosen to profile a few varieties from each list that deserve immediate attention based on their relative rarity, outstanding culinary qualities, and colorful history. We’ve also provided a list of orchards, organized by region, that carry a wide variety of heirloom rootstock. if we’ve overlooked your favorite apple variety, nursery, or orchard, let us know!

Conservation lists for other regions are still in development. if you’d like to get involved in the creation of your regional list, or if you’d like information on apples in a region not profiled below, email [email protected]

greAt lAKes – Ky, il, iN, mi, oh, Wi, Wv

brier (sWeet) crAb: Developed from a cross between a siberian crab and a bailey’s sweet, then propagated by b.b. brier of baraboo, Wisconsin, around 1870. its pale yellow skin is awash in fire-engine red streaks, and its white flesh is crisp, juicy and very sweet. its rich flavor is well suited for desserts or for cooking into sauces. Not commercially available from nurseries, but worth finding in historic orchards.

eureKA: A pippin apple developed from a volunteer beneath a tolman sweet, this heirloom is a treasure from the Phillips family of West salem, Wisconsin. A.J. Phillips’ father planted it around 1865. its pale yellow-green skin blushes to crimson on its sunny side, and becomes striped with reds and purples. Maturing late in the season, this apple has white, juicy flesh that can either be sweet or mildly subacid. Propagation material available from only one source: edible Forest Nursery in Madison, Wisconsin.

hANKo: From a tree planted by a Mr. Hank in sauk County, Wisconsin, around 1862 that came to the attention of orchard-keepers around 1904. its skin has broad crimson stripes across a yellow- green background, and its flesh is greenish white, tinged with red. this is a crisp, somewhat coarse-textured apple with a slightly acidic flavor. Not commercially available from nurseries, but worth finding in historic orchards.

hyslop crAb: this crab apple was named for thomas Hyslop, a Milwaukee, Wisconsin, nurseryman, and was selected prior to 1869. its skin is a translucent yellow overlaid by a rich, reddish brown shading and a blue bloom. its yellowish flesh is very firm and fine-textured, turning from juicy to mealy and astringent as it ripens. its slightly acidic flavor makes it function both as a dessert and as a cooking apple. Propagation material is available from five sources: boyer Nurseries and orchards in biglerville, Pennsylvania; Cider Hill Nursery in Winchester, illinois; orchard lane Growers in Gloucester, Virginia; eastman’s Antique Apples in Wheeler, Michigan; and Worley Nursery in York springs, Pennsylvania.

Apple picking

Hyslop Crab Apple. Photo, eastman’s Antique Apples.


mcmAhoN: this heirloom pippin apple may have been selected from the progeny of the giant Alexander apple. it was planted by Mrs. isaac McMahon on the west branch of the Pine river, near bloom, richland County, Wisconsin, around 1860. it was featured at the richland County Fair in 1869 and then propagated in the richland County Nursery by A. l. Hatch of ithaca, Wisconsin. Very large in size, McMahon’s skin is pale green or yellow, with a faint carmine blush. its crisp flesh is creamy white, tender and juicy. its sprightly acid flavor makes it a good pick for dessert use. Propagation material is available from only one source: edible Forest Nursery in Madison, Wisconsin.

milWAuKee: this pippin apple was found under a Duchess tree and then developed by George Jeffrey of Milwaukee, Wisconsin. it appeared in commerce around 1899. its tough but thin skin is greenish yellow and marbled, dotted or blotched with reds. its yellowish white flesh is tender and juicy, with a pleasant acid flavor good for most uses except as a fresh dessert apple. Propagation material is available from only two sources: edible Forest Nursery in Madison, Wisconsin, and st. lawrence Nursery in Potsdam, New York.

NeWell’s WiNter (also called orANge NeWell): this heirloom pippin apple is derived from a volunteer found under a Perry russet that was originally planted around 1849 by a man named orange Newell. it originated in section 13, township 12 of sauk County, Wisconsin, but was introduced into trade by nurseryman J. W. shoards of reedsburg, Wisconsin. its skin has a rich yellow hue overlaid by bronze or carmine blushes and russet dots. its crisp yellow flesh is juicy but rather coarse-textured. its slightly acidic flavor makes it excellent for cooking and it is a good keeper in cold cellars. scionwood is available from eastman’s Antique Apples in Wheeler, Michigan.

pAWpAW (also called bAll, rubiNcoN or WesterN bAldWiN): this pippin apple was raised from a seed found by a Mrs. ball on the farm of a Mr. barnum, close to the town of Pawpaw, Van buren County, Michigan. by 1858 it had spread to other parts of Michigan, and was featured in the Western Fruit Book of 1859. A large apple with smooth skin, it features crimson reds on a yellow background. the yellow flesh is firm, fine-textured and tender. Pawpaw has a rich, slightly acidic flavor that has earned it a reputation as a dessert apple. Propagation material is available from three sources: the Christian Homesteading Movement in oxford, New York; orchard lane Growers in Gloucester, Virginia; and Worley Nursery in York springs, Pennsylvania.

sAlome: A Mr. elias C. Hathaway found this pippin apple in an abandoned nursery in ottawa, illinois, and guessed that it had first sprouted in 1853. After several false starts, Hathaway’s tree produced fruit that he featured at the ottawa Horticultural society in 1872 and at the illinois state Horticultural society in 1878, where he named it after his mother. Hathaway sold all of his stock to nurseryman Arthur bryant of Princeton, illinois, who introduced it to trade in 1884. the thin, tough skin is smooth, and pale greenish yellow. the yellow-tinged flesh is firm, crisp and somewhat tender. Maturing late in the season, the salome has a juicy, sprightly subacidic flavor and is good for many uses. Propagation material is available from: Christian Homesteading Movement in oxford, New York and Worley Nursery in York springs, Pennsylvania.

Apple picking

orange Newell Apple. Photo, eastman’s Antique Apples.


shiAWAsse beAuty (also known as michigAN beAuty): A pippin apple from the town of Avon in oakland County, Michigan, got into the hands of Ms. beebe truesdell of Vernon, in shiawassee County, Michigan. it first fruited around 1850 and was widely promoted throughout Michigan in the latter half of the nineteenth century. its thin skin is pale yellow, blushed with carmine red, and covered with a thin bloom. its flesh is exceedingly white, crisp and juicy. its flavor and fragrance are aromatic, briskly subacidic and altogether distinctive for a dessert apple. Propagation material is available from two sources: bluebird orchard and Nursery in Grand rapids, Michigan, and Worley Nursery in York springs, Pennsylvania.

outstANdiNg orchArds & Nurseries iN the greAt lAKesu bluebird orchard and Nursery: 4711 three Mile rd Ne, Grand rapids, Mi

49525, 616-361-0919, [email protected]

u boyer Nurseries and orchards: 405 boyer Nursery road, biglerville, PA 17307, 717-677-8558, http://www.boyernurseries.com/

u Christian Homesteading Movement: richard Fahey, oxford, NY

u Cider Hill Nursery: 1852 Woodson-Winchester road, Winchester, il 62694, 217-882-2047

u eastman's Antique Apples: 1058 W Midland-Gratiot County line rd. Wheeler, Mi 48662, 989-842-5576, www.eastmansantiqueapples.com

u edible Forest Nursery: Po box 260195, Madison, Wi 53726, 608-271-8311, http://www.edibleforestnursery.com/

u orchard lane Growers: 5014 orchard lane, Gloucester, VA 23061, 804-694-0470

u st. lawrence Nurseries: 325 state Highway 345, Potsdam, NY 13676, 315-265-6739, http://www.sln.potsdam.ny.us/

u Worley Nursery: 841 Franklin Church road, Dillsburg, PA 17019, 717-432-5058, http://www.worleynursery.com/

AppAlAchiA – Ky, Nc, oh, pA, sc, tN, vA, Wv

dulA beAuty: J.A. Dula of lenoir, North Carolina, purportedly planted the Dula beauty from the seeds of the limbertwig. because of its strength, vigor, and disease resistance, the North Carolina Department of Agriculture recommended this variety for Piedmont growers at the turn of the 20th Century. the tree is well adapted for many growing conditions. this immense, beautiful red apple overlaid with darker red stripes boasts yellowish-white flesh that is tender, crisp, juicy and recommended for frying and baking. ripens in the late fall to early winter months. Available from Heritage Apple, Clemmons, North Carolina and big Horse Creek Farm, lansing, North Carolina.

hAll: this variety originated perhaps in the late 1700’s to early 1800’s on the farm of Mr. Hall of Franklin County, North Carolina. Don’t let its small size fool you. this variety is a good late keeper, with an exquisite flavor. the yellow flesh is tender, juicy, with a hint of vanilla. because it was unable to compete with larger apples it was forgotten and only rediscovered by the apple hunter and collector tom brown of Clemmons, North Carolina in 2002. today is it widely

Apple picking


sold in southern nurseries. Also known as Hall Apple, Hall’s red, and Hall’s Pippin. Apple trees available from Heritage Apple, Clemmons, North Carolina and big Horse Creek Farm, lansing, North Carolina.

JuNAlusKA: the Junaluska apple is named for the famous leader of the eastern band of Cherokee indians from North Carolina. legend goes that the original tree was from Junaluska’s land in western, North Carolina. thought to have gone extinct in the 1800’s, tom brown of Clemmons, North Carolina rediscovered a tree in Macon County, North Carolina in 2001. the apple is large, with a dull golden yellow skin streaked with russet, occasionally splotched with green and a light red flush on its sunny side. the tender yellow flesh has a slight spicy tart taste. ripens in late fall and keeps through the winter. Apple trees available from Heritage Apple, Clemmons, North Carolina and the big Horse Creek Farm, lansing, North Carolina.

reAsor greeN: First distributed by the Davis family at the silver leaf Nurseries of lee County, Virginia, in 1887. the tree was thought to be extinct until 2001 when Harold Jerrell of the lee County extension helped the urban Homestead orchard locate a scion from orchardist “Hop” slemp of Dryden, Virginia. the fruit of the tree is roundish to oval. its skin is green with a light to prominent scarlet blush. the flavor is mild and juicy. the fruit is also capable of drying when wounded, instead of rotting. Available from the urban Homestead, bristol, Virginia.

red horse: Also known by a dozen other names. this variety is said to have originated in louisa Co., VA and grown throughout the south for over 200 years. Yellow to red with thick smooth skin, marked with dark red stripes, the fruit is medium to large and slightly conical. it ripens in the late summer/early fall and makes an extremely tasty dried apple. Available from the urban Homestead, bristol, Virginia.

red limbertWig: Apple historian lee Calhoun believes that this old Virginia variety it may be the parent of the many limbertwig cultivars. Found on one of the urban Homesteads “turn-of-the century” nursery plates the red limbertwig was described as “an old southern variety that ought to be in every orchard south of the Potomac river; dull red color; sub-acid flavor; fine grower, bearer and keeper.” the late Henry Morton of Gatlinburg, tennessee wrote, “Well-known here in the smoky Mountains as a commercial apple and good for fresh eating, cider, apple butter, jelly. Keeps all winter.” Available from the urban Homestead, bristol, Virginia.

other endangered Appalachia varieties include: black limbertwig, lowry, red royal limbetwig, Walker Pippin, Winter Jon, Kinniard’s Choice, and many more!

outstanding Nurseries & orchards in Appalachiau backyard Fruit Growers: 5276 steelville road, steelville, PA 19310,

http://www.sas.upenn.edu/~dailey/byfg.html

u big Horse Creek Farm: P.o. box 70, lansing, NC 28643, http://www.bighorsecreekfarm.com

u boyer Nurseries and orchards: 405 boyer Nursery road, biglerville, PA 17307, 717-677-8558, http://www.boyernurseries.com

Apple picking


u brown’s orchard & Cider: 265 southview road, Mc Donald, PA 15057, 724-356-7960, http://www.brownsorchardandcider.com

u Carver’s orchards & Farm Market: 3460 Cosby Hwy, Cosby, tN 37722, 423-487-2419

u Century Farm orchards: P.o. box 271, Altamahaw, NC 27202, 336-349-5709, http://www.centuryfarmorchards.com

u Heritage Apples: 7335 bullard road, Clemmons, NC 27012, 336-766-5842, http://www.applesearch.org/index.html

u Horne Creek Farm: 308 Horne Creek Farm road, Pinnacle, NC 27043, 336-325-2298, http://www.nchistoricsites.org/horne/horne.htm

u lawson’s Nursery: 2730 Yellow Creek road, ball Ground, GA 30107, 770-893-2141, http://www.lawsonsnursery.com

u North star orchards:3226 limestone road, Cochranville, PA, 19330, http://www.northstarorchard.com/index.php

u orchard lane Growers: 5014 orchard lane, Gloucester, VA 23061, 804-694-0470

u urban Homestead: 818 Cumberland street, bristol, VA 24201, 276-466-2931, http://www.oldvaapples.com

u Worley Nursery: 841 Franklin Church road, Dillsburg, PA 17019, 717-432-5058, http://www.worleynursery.com

eAsterN piedmoNt ANd mid-AtlANtic – ct, md, me, Nc, Nh, NJ, Ny, pA, vA

cAmpField: Well known is early America’s fondness for a drink of cider; lesser known are the apples that created such a refreshing drink. originating before 1817 in essex County, New Jersey, the Campfield apple was one of the most popular varieties of cider apples. William Coxe, the great American pomologist (one who studies apples) described it in his two-volume manuscript A View of the Cultivation of Fruit Trees in America. Published in 1817, the Coxe describes the Campfield as “a small red apple with yellow dots of a greenish-yellow.” the beloved cider qualities can be found in its firm white flesh and sweet, rich flavor. trees available from Vintage Virginia Apples, North Garden, Virginia.

hArrisoN cider Apple: Also originated in essex County, New York in the early 1800’s. thought to be extinct until it was rediscovered in New Jersey in 1976 by Paul Gidez. During the colonial period the juice was combined with that of the Campfield or Graniwinkle apple varieties to produce incredible tasting cider. by itself, the Harrison makes a dark, extremely rich cider, which at the New York market, was “frequently ten dollars and upwards per barrel when fined for bottling.” the apple is scab and rot-resistant, bears annual, full crops, and keeps well in storage. trees available from Foggy ridge Cider, Dugspur, Virginia; and Vintage Virginia Apples, North Garden, Virginia.

pArAdise sWeet: the Paradise sweet – also known simply as Paradise – apple variety is thought to have originated from the area of Paradise, Pennsylvania around the time that samples were sent to rural architect and pomologist A.J. Downing in 1842. one can spot this endangered apple by the peculiar shards of under-color that show through a think blush and give it such an unusual appearance. the flavor is also treasured, as the fine-grained flesh is

Apple picking

Harrison Cider Apple. Photo, ben Watson.

Campfield Apples. Photo, eastman’s Antique Apples.


so juicy and sugary, one source claims it is quite lively on the tongue and tastes somewhat like a fresh pear. the historic uses for this september apple are typically raw eating or drying. trees available from boyer Nurseries & orchards, biglerville, Pennsylvania.

stArr: originating as a pippin on the farm of John starr of Woodburg, New Jersey, the starr variety of apple was widely marketed and sold with great success throughout the Mid-Atlantic and southern states as “the largest early apple known.” sometimes called the early Greening, the starr is around 10-12 inches in diameter, with a somewhat roundish, pale, greenish-yellow skin with a faint hint of red blush. Pomologists recommend picking the apply in late June to early July and note it is a great keeper with preferred qualities for a cooking apple. Propagation material is available from big Horse Creek Farm in Ashe County, North Carolina, and eastman’s Antique Apples in Wheeler, Michigan.

vANdAvere: Distinct from the Vandevere Pippin grown in western parts of the country. the Vandavere is a native to Wilmington, Delaware, probably originating in the 1700’s at a farm owned by members of the Vandiver family—who came to the united states from Holland. the fruit’s appearance is of medium size, oblate in shape, yellow with red stripes of color. the flesh is yellowish and tender with a fine, rich and subacid flavor that makes this late-ripening variety ideal for culinary use. Apple trees available from big Horse Creek Farm, Ashe County, North Carolina.

WilloW tWig: this rare apple variety derives its name from the beautiful drooping and willow-like appearance of the tree. While the origins are not certain, an 1845 catalogue suggests this variety originated in Virginia. the fruit is medium and conical in shape and sometimes ribbed. the color is a yellowish green skin with splashes and stripes of red and the yellow flesh tastes coarse, crisp and juicy. this apple ripens in october and keeps well. Apple trees available from big Horse Creek Farm, Ashe County, North Carolina.

outstanding orchards and Nurseries in the eastern piedmont and mid-Atlanticu big Horse Creek Farm: P.o. box 70, lansing, NC 28643,

http://www.bighorsecreekfarm.com

u boyer Nurseries & orchards: 405 boyer Nursery road, biglerville, PA 17307, 717-677-8558, http://www.boyernurseries.com

u Foggy ridge Cider: 1328 Pineview road Dugspur, VA 24325, 276-398-4041, http://www.foggyridgecider.com

u riamede Farm: 122 oakdale road, Chester, NJ 07930, 908-879-5353, http://www.riamede.com/

u reid’s orchard: 2135 buchanan Valley road, ortanna, PA 17353, 717-677-7466, http://www.reidsorchardwinery.com/

u Vintage Virginia Apples: P.0. box 210, North Garden, VA 22959, 434-297-2326, http://www.vintagevirginiaapples.com/index.html

NeW eNglANd - me, Nh, vt, mA, ri, ct

AuNt peNelope WiNsloW: Fall apple with unknown parentage. the story goes that “Aunt” Penelope brought the apple to Maine’s North Haven island from

Apple picking

starr Apple. Photo, eastman’s Antique Apples.


Marshfield, Massachusetts, over 200 years ago. this medium-sized, slightly ribbed, roundish fruit has long narrow depressions at the base with pronounced red stripes and blush. it is an all-purpose apple. Propagation material available from Fedco seeds, Waterville, Maine.

cole’s QuiNce: Around the year 1840 the Cole Quince was discovered by Captain Henry Cole in Cornish, Maine. it was revived again from a tree found in the collection of Cynthia Anthony of searsmont. Possibly called “quince” because of its tart flavor, shape, and coloring. As the fruit begins to ripen in the summer, the blush turns a glowing translucent rusty red spotted with yellow stars. its white flesh has a delicious tangy, aromatic, and zesty taste. it is recommended to collect the fruit before it completely ripens. the Cole Quince is available from Fedco seeds, Waterville, Maine and eastman’s Antique Apples in Wheeler, Michigan.

goldeN russet (also called Wheeler’s): originates from an older family of apples from england and has a sister variety that originates from New Jersey. it is a late fall/winter apple with a rough reddish brown skin and bronze highlights. Prized for its rich, spicy flavor, this variety was once called the “champagne of old-time cider apples.” Also enjoyed eaten fresh. Available from shelburne orchard, shelburne Vermont; Gould Hill Farm, Contocook, New Hampshire; Clarkdale Fruit Farm, Deerfield, Massachusetts; eastman’s Antique Apples in Wheeler, Michigan.

grANite beAuty: Grown on the farm of Zephaniah breed in Weare, New Hampshire, sometime before 1815. in an article published by breed in the New Hampshire Journal of Agriculture, the story of the apple was unveiled: “Dorcas needed a riding whip, she was supplied by pulling from the earth, by the side of the road, a little apple tree. With this she hurried her patient and sure-footed horse towards her wild-woods home in Weare, then Halestown and the little tree was carefully set and tended, and when it produced its first fruit it was found to be excellent.” A large and unusually shaped fruit, the skin is golden yellow, splashed with bright vermilion red color. the flesh is yellowish-white, fine, crisp, and tender, with abundant juice and a pleasant sugar to acid balance. When first tasted many describe the flavor as having an initial burst of “warm spice” reminiscent of coriander or cardamom. the trees are cold-hardy, precocious bearers, and produce an annual crop of good quality fruit. the fruit is harvested in the fall and will keep in ideal storage conditions until February. scionwood and seedstock only available from the 250-year-old Gould Hill Family Farm, Contocook, New Hampshire.

JeWett red (also called NodheAd): the foundling was brought to notice in 1859 in Weare, New Hampshire. According to legend, the Jewett red got its nickname, “Nod-head” from the way that its developer, samuel Jewett nodded his head as he walked or talked. this medium sized fruit has a mild and mellow flavor and has pronounced ribs and a blush on its skin that runs from streaky greenish yellow to a deep crimson purple. the flesh is yellow and has a nice amount of juice. Good as cider or eaten fresh. Arrives around late september. scionwood and seed stock is available from Gould Hill Farm, Contocook, New Hampshire.

moses Wood: before the distribution of readymade grafts from orchards and commercialized distributors, apple varieties use to be sold by apple peddlers. one of these itinerant grafters was named Moses Wood. the apple that takes his

Apple picking

Granite beauty Apple. Photo, ben Watson.

Cole’s Quince Apple. Photo, eastman’s Antique Apples.


name is thought to have originated on his farm in Winthrop, Kennebec County, Maine, sometime before 1847. its medium sized, roundish and conic body has distinct ribbing and lobes around the base. it has light yellow skin with pink blush and red stripes. its mildly acidic, juicy flesh is medium to fine grain. this is an extremely tart variety that is good as a late summer dessert and cooking apple. Propagation material available from Fedco seeds, Waterville, Maine.

summer sWeet (also called sidNey sWeet): this apple originally came from the farm of ichabod thomas in sidney, Maine. its skin has a yellow-green base with a golden apricot orange blush and an occasional russet splash above its stem. the yellow flesh is juicy with a mild, yet distinct flavor. this apple ripens in early summer and is delicious eaten fresh. it is still found in sidney, Maine

today. Propagation material is available from Fedco seeds, Waterville, Maine.

other endangered or threatened varieties in this region include: black oxford, Canadian strawberry, Dudley, Davey, orange sweet, starkey, Kearsage, Winthrop Greening.

outstANdiNg Nurseries & orchArds iN NeW eNglANd

u Alyson’s orchard: P.o. box 534, Walpole, NH 03608, 800-856-0549, http://www.alysonsorchard.com/alyson-orchards

u Applecrest Farm:133 exeter road (rt.88), Hampton Falls, NH 03844, 603-926-3721, http://www.applecrest.com

u Clarkdale Fruit: 303 upper road, Deerfield, MA 01342, 413-772-6797, http://www.clarkdalefruitfarms.com

u Fedco: P.o. box 520, Waterville, Me 04903, 207-873-7333, http://www.fedcoseeds.com

u Five islands Farm: 1375 Five islands road, Georgetown, Me 04548, 207-371-9383, http://www.fiveislandsfarm.com

u Gould Hill: 656 Gould Hill road, Contoocook, NH 03229, 603-746-3811, http://www.gouldhillfarm.com

u Hackett’s orchard: 86 south street, south Hero, Vt 05486, 802-372-4848

u old sturbridge Village: 1 old sturbridge Village road, sturbridge, MA 01566, 1-800-733-1830, http://www.osv.org

u Poverty lane: 98 Poverty lane, lebanon, NH 03766, 603-448-1511, http://www.povertylaneorchards.com

u ricker Hill orchards: route 117, turner, Me 04282, http://www.rickerhill.com

u sandy river orchard: 240 W sandy river road, Mercer, Me 04957, 207-587-2563, http://www.sandyriverapples.com

u scott Farm: 707 Kipling road, Dummerston, Vt 05301, 802-254-6868, http://www.scottfarmvermont.com

u shelburne orchards: 216 orchard road, shelburne, Vt 05482, 802-985-2753, http://www.shelburneorchards.com/htm/home.htm

u tower Hill: 11 French Drive, boylston, MA 01505, 508-869-6111, http://www.towerhillbg.org

Apple picking

black oxford Apples. Photo, John bunker.


sloW Food usAslow Food usA seeks to inspire and engage everyday people through grassroots advocacy and local projects that move towards a just and sustainable food system. We advocate for food and farming policy that’s good for the public, farmers and workers, and the planet. We create programs to bring the values of eating local, sustainable and just food to schools and campuses. We preserve diversity in our fields and on our forks by promoting vanishing foods and food traditions. A non-profit movement-building organization, slow Food usA has 225 volunteer-led chapters across the country, representing more than 28,000 members and reaching a network of 200,000 people. to get involved with your local chapter, visit www.slowfoodusa.org

rAFt AlliANcethe renewing America’s Food traditions (rAFt) is an alliance of food, farming, conservation and culinary advocates who have joined together to ensure that the diverse foods and traditions unique to North America reach our tables by means that make our families and communities healthier and our food system more diverse: ecologically, culturally and structurally. We focus on clusters of at-risk foods that we feel we have a capacity to recover, using models of discovery, recovery and sustainability that may inspire others to do similar work. Go to http://www.raftalliance.org for more information about the alliance’s current initiatives. Current rAFt partners: American livestock breeds Conservancy, Chefs Collaborative, Dr. Gary Paul Nabhan, and slow Food usA.

www.slowfoodusa.org

Midwest apple historian Dan bussey led a workshop on apple tree cultivation at the rAFt Forgotten Fruits summit. Photo, Jenny trotter.

noble fruits a guide to conserving heirloom apples

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