nine unforgettable moments in zanzibar · reef shoes and go sploshing knee-deep in water along the...

1
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SAVE up to $2,700/couple - Reduced Deposit From $100/ per-person (Fully Refundable) + - Bonus Shipboard Credits! + - Onboard Coupon Book (Value of $650) + (Applies to select sailings) 1866636WAVE GUARANTEED LOWEST PRICE WWW.CRUISE-CONNECTIONS.COM *Includes Air & air tax from Toronto, otherwise cruise only. Other low cost air available. Prices CAD, per person, based on twin sharing, for new bookings only and may not be combinable with other promotions. Government taxes & fees extra. **Shore excursion alcoholic beverages & sodas. Shore excursion credits and free specialty dining apply to select Alaska and Europe sailings. +Princess Cruise Super Sale may not be combinable with other promotions, reduced deposit is per person, fully refundable prior to final payment. Onboard Coupon Book valued at $650 is per stateroom. Shipboard credits are per stateroom and vary on sailings. Promotion available on new bookings only. Cruise Lines reserve the right to charge a fuel supplement without prior notice, including on fully paid bookings. Air subject to change & not guaranteed until full payment. Cruise Connections reserves aboard the 118-passenger Sea Adventurer Greenland & the Canadian Arctic Voyages of Discovery: Expeditions to the land of the polar bear and northern lights. © Andrew Stewart June to September 2014 EARLY BOOKING SAVINGS Book and Pay in Full by November 30th Call Devon 905-271-4000 or 1-800-363-7566 Ext. 254 Visit www.adventurecanada.com or Email: [email protected] 14 Front St. S. Mississauga, ON L5H 2C4 Ont Reg # 4001400. Adventure Canada is a Member of TICO and ACTA. All travellers, foreign and Cubans living abroad, must have a medical insurance policy when travelling to Cuba. Prices reflect applicable reductions, are subject to change without notice and cannot be combined with any other offer or promotion. Prices are in Canadian dollars, are valid for bookings made on Nov. 16, 2013, apply to new bookings only and for departure dates as indicated. Prices are per person based on double occupancy, unless otherwise stated, from Toronto - Pearson International Airport in Economy class and include surcharges. Non-refundable. Subject to availability at time of booking. Not applicable to group bookings. Further information available from a travel agent. Flights operated by Air Canada or Air Canada rouge. For applicable terms and conditions, consult the Air Canada Vacations brochures or www.aircanadavacations.com. Holder of Quebec permit #702566. TICO registration #50013537. BC registration #32229. For details, visit www.aircanadavacations.com. For terms and conditions of the Aeroplan program, consult www.aeroplan.com. n ® Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aimia Canada Inc. ®Air Canada Vacations is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license by Touram Limited Partnership, 1440 St. Catherine W., Suite 600, Montreal, QC. Visit www.aircanadavacations.com for up-to-date information. aircanadavacations.com Call 1 877 236-6228 or your travel agent Cayo Coco, Cuba Iberostar Mojito AAA All-Inclusive• Standard rm. Nov. 30, Dec. 7 & 14•1 wk. $ 739 Add taxes & other fees: $70 Departure tax: 25 CUC cash, paid locally Varadero, Cuba Iberostar Laguna Azul AAAA All-Inclusive• Standard rm. Dec. 21, 22 & 29•1 wk. $ 1779 Add taxes & other fees: $70 Departure tax: 25 CUC cash, paid locally Iberostar Hotels & Resorts | AIR, HOTEL & TRANSFERS Spring River Cruises ON SALE APPLICABLE 2014 DATES Mar 24 or Mar 31 Cruise the Rhine & Mosel Rivers Mar 27 Cruise the Rhine River Apr 5, 8, 14 or 21* Tulip Time Cruise Apr 7 or 18* Cruise the Danube River *$599 air is not applicable to these dates. Must be booked by December 31, 2013. Offer is space available, not combinable with any other offer, capacity controlled subject to change at any time. Hurry – space at these rates will not last long! $599 p/p Return Airfare from Toronto or Montreal (includes transfers & all taxes) OR Save $1,000 per stateroom OR NO Single Supplement ON–4499356/4499372 200-111 Peter Street, Toronto, ON M5V 2H1 1.800.593.3334 THE GLOBE AND MAIL SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2013 A T5 GLOBE TRAVEL Y ou will not find brand-name hotels on Zanzibar. Tourism, beyond hostels and cottages, only started to sprout on this Tanzanian island in the past dec- ade. But a handful of boutique beach resorts offer travellers will- ing to head off the beaten path a taste of luxury. Because of the long flights, North Americans typically tack Zanzibar onto the end of an African safari – a bush- and-beach vacation. ................................................................ Try reef walking At low tide, the waves of the Indi- an Ocean along Bwejuu Beach on the east coast recede more than a kilometre. Grab hiking poles and reef shoes and go sploshing knee- deep in water along the reef out to the surf break, being careful to avoid spiny sea urchins. Stop to pick up shells and examine sea cucumbers. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a small octopus. ................................................................ Learn about the local economy Off the eastern shore, village women in long, colourful dresses work on seaweed farms. At low tide, they wade into the water to gather the plants, which they drag to shore and sell to a factory to make soaps, creams and med- icine. The men stalk fish with wooden spears. ................................................................ Sleep like a star Past guests at andBeyond Mnem- ba Island Lodge, located on a pri- vate island, include Bill Gates, Tom Cruise and Naomi Campbell (from $1,550 a person a night; andbeyond.com). The gleaming white Baraza Resort & Spa made Condé Nast Traveler’s 2012 hot list of best new hotels in the world (from $1,100 a night for two, all inclusive; baraza-zanzi- bar.com). And its sister property, the Palms, is an adults-only escape with private villas over- looking the beach ($1,220 a night for two, all inclusive; palms-zan- zibar.com). ................................................................ Confront history Stone Town, in Zanzibar city’s historic quarter, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a storied past. Zanzibar was once the centre for the East African slave and ivory trade. At its height, in the 18th and 19th centuries, about 45,000 slaves, captured on mainland Africa, were shipped to Brazil, India and Arab countries. The old slave market and whip- ping post are a sobering remin- der of man’s cruelty. One dank underground chamber – smaller than a single-car garage – reput- edly imprisoned 50 chained and shackled slaves for days at a time. Get active Ride a bicycle on the firm coral sand of Bwejuu Beach, past fish- ermen building dhows from mangrove wood. When the wind picks up, fly through the white- caps while windsurfing or kite boarding. There’s good snorkell- ing and scuba diving off Mnemba Island, a boat ride away. Or swim- ming with wild dolphins on the south coast. ................................................................ Take a spice tour Known as the “spice island,” Zan- zibar’s lush interior is full of farms growing cardamom, cinna- mon, vanilla beans and other spices. For excellent guides – both knowledgeable and fun – try Indoma Tours (indoma- tours.com), run by two young brothers who hire and train locals. ................................................................ Catch the sunset in Stone Town It’s worth spending a night in Stone Town, especially if you stay in one of the historic palaces that have been turned into atmos- pheric boutique hotels (try Zan- zibar Palace, from $210 night; zanzibarpalacehotel.com). Kick back with a sundowner on a roof- top lounge, or join locals by the passenger dock and snap pics of returning dhows silhouetted against the pumpkin-orange sky. ................................................................ Tour Jozani National Park The mahogany forest, near the middle of the island, is home to red colobus monkeys found only on Zanzibar. About 2,000 live in the park and a large group, habit- uated to visitors, can be observed up close near the park entrance. With their crowns of white tufty hair, they’re awfully cute. ................................................................ Lounge on the beach Ultimately, though, the beach and bathtub-warm water is where you want to spend most of your time (hey, it’s the reason you go to Zanzibar). Bwejuu Beach is rated by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the world’s 30 most beautiful island beaches. More gob-smackingly gorgeous beaches are on the north coast, with sand as fine as flour and calm all-day swimming. ................................................................ The writers stayed as guests of the hotels, which did not review or approve this article. ................................................................ Special to The Globe and Mail EAST AFRICA Nine unforgettable moments in Zanzibar ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... JANICE MUCALOV GEORGE MUCALOV ZANZIBAR ................................................................ IF YOU GO If adding Zanzibar to a Kenya safari, look at Kenya Airways, which flies to Zanzibar from Nairobi. From Tanzania, KLM flies from Kilimanjaro to Dar es Salaam, and from South Africa, South African Airways flies from Johannesburg to Dar es Salaam. From Dar, there are several 30-minute flights a day to Zanzibar. Foreign Affairs Canada advis- es travellers to Tanzania to exercise a high degree of cau- tion because of the threat of terrorism. In September, po- lice made 15 arrests related to three acid attacks – one of which involved two British tourists – in recent months.

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Page 1: Nine unforgettable moments in Zanzibar · reef shoes and go sploshing knee-deep in water along the reef out to the surf break, being careful to avoid spiny sea urchins. Stop to pick

Panama Canal11 nightswith AIR* from $1,009 CAD

Roundtrip Fort Lauderdale, visiting Aruba,Cartagena, Panama Canal, Colon, Puerto Limon

&Caymans/GeorgeTown.

Panama Canal15 nights with AIR* from $1,999 CAD

Los Angeles to Fort Lauderdale, visiting Cabo SanLucas, San Juan del Sur, Puntarenas, Panama

Canal, Cartagena&Aruba.

South America17 nightswith AIR* from $2,329 CAD

Los Angeles to Santiago, visiting Cabo SanLucas,San Juan del Sur, Puntarenas, Lima

(Callao), Pisco&LaSerena.

Orient / Asia10 nightswith AIR* from $2,689 CAD

Singapore to Kobe, visiting PhuMy, Nha Trang,HongKong, Xiamen&Kochi.

Australia/New Zealand12 nightswith AIR* from $3,139 CAD

Sydney to Auckland, visiting Melbourne,Hobart, Fiordland National Park, Dunedin,

AkaroaHarbour&Tauranga.

Transatlantic14 nightswith AIR* from $2,019 CAD

INCLUDES 1 NIGHT SPECIALTY DINING**BONUS SHORE EXCURSION CREDIT**

Fort Lauderdale to London (Southampton),visiting Royal Naval Dockyard, Lisbon, Bilbao &

LeHavre.Caribbean9 nightswith AIR* from $909 CAD

Roundtrip Fort Lauderdale, visitingCaymans/GeorgeTown, Cozumel&PrincessCay.

Alaska7 nights with AIR* from $1,639 CAD

INCLUDES 1 NIGHT SPECIALTY DINING**BONUS SHORE EXCURSION CREDIT**

Roundtrip Vancouver, visiting Juneau,Skagway, Glacier Bay & Ketchikan.

Pacific Coastal10 nights with AIR* from $1,919 CAD

Roundtrip Vancouver, visiting Victoria,San Francisco, Santa Barbara,Santa Catalina & Los Angeles.

SuperCruiseSale!From $91/Day

Best OverallProvider ofVacation and

Cruise Packages

SAl k

24NightHawaii&TahitiGrandAdventureApril 9 - May 3, 2014 -Papeete to Vancouver

th A ith A iii

from$4,209CAD

• Includes Air* from Toronto & Transfers• Includes 2 Nights Pre-Cruise hotel inMoorea (Breakfast Included)

• Shipboard credits

Visit Moorea, Tahiti (Papeete), BoraBora, Hilo, Kona, Maui (Lahaina),Kauai (Nawiliwili) & Honolulu.

SAVE up to $2,700/couple

- Reduced Deposit From $100/per-person (Fully Refundable)+

- Bonus Shipboard Credits!+

- Onboard Coupon Book (Value of $650)+

(Applies to select sailings)

1866636WAVEGUARANTEED LOWEST PRICE

WWW.CRUISE-CONNECTIONS.COM*Includes Air & air tax from Toronto, otherwise cruise only. Other low cost air available. Prices CAD, per person, based on twinsharing, for new bookings only and may not be combinable with other promotions. Government taxes & fees extra. **Shore excursion������� ��� �� ������� ��� ��� � ��������� ���� ��������� ������ ����� � ���� � ������ �� � ������� � ��� �� �������alcoholic beverages & sodas. Shore excursion credits and free specialty dining apply to select Alaska and Europe sailings.+Princess Cruise Super Sale may not be combinable with other promotions, reduced deposit is per person, fully refundableprior to final payment. Onboard Coupon Book valued at $650 is per stateroom. Shipboard credits are per stateroom and varyon sailings. Promotion available on new bookings only. Cruise Lines reserve the right to charge a fuel supplement without priornotice, including on fully paid bookings. Air subject to change & not guaranteed until full payment. Cruise Connections reserves��� ����� � ������ ����� ��� �������� ��� ����� � �������� ������� � ������ � � ���������� �� ���� � ������ �� �� !�"#$%�

aboard the 118-passenger

Sea Adventurer

Greenland &the Canadian Arctic

Voyages of Discovery:

Expeditions to the land of the polarbear and northern lights.

©An

drew

Stew

artJune toSeptember 2014

EARLY BOOKING SAVINGS

Book and Pay in Full by November 30th

Call Devon 905-271-4000 or 1-800-363-7566 Ext. 254

Visit www.adventurecanada.com

or Email: [email protected]

14 Front St. S. Mississauga, ON L5H 2C4 Ont Reg # 4001400. Adventure Canada is a Member of TICO and ACTA.

All travellers, foreign and Cubans living abroad, must have a medical insurance policy when travelling to Cuba. Prices reflect applicable reductions, are subject to change without notice and cannot be combined with any other offer or promotion. Prices are in Canadian dollars, are valid for bookings made on Nov. 16, 2013, apply to new bookingsonly and for departure dates as indicated. Prices are per person based on double occupancy, unless otherwise stated, from Toronto - Pearson International Airport in Economy class and include surcharges. Non-refundable. Subject to availability at time of booking. Not applicable to group bookings. Further information available from a travelagent. Flights operated by Air Canada or Air Canada rouge. For applicable terms and conditions, consult the Air Canada Vacations brochures or www.aircanadavacations.com. Holder of Quebec permit #702566. TICO registration #50013537. BC registration #32229. For details, visit www.aircanadavacations.com. For terms and conditionsof the Aeroplan program, consult www.aeroplan.com.n ®Aeroplan is a registered trademark of Aimia Canada Inc. ®Air Canada Vacations is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license by Touram Limited Partnership, 1440 St. Catherine W., Suite 600, Montreal, QC. Visit www.aircanadavacations.com for up-to-date information.

aircanadavacations.com Call 1 877 236-6228 or your travel agent

Cayo Coco, CubaIberostar MojitoAAAAll-Inclusive • Standard rm. • Nov. 30, Dec. 7 & 14 • 1 wk.

$739Add taxes & other fees: $70

Departure tax: 25 CUC cash, paid locally

Varadero, CubaIberostar Laguna AzulAAAAAll-Inclusive • Standard rm. • Dec. 21, 22 & 29 • 1 wk.

$1779Add taxes & other fees: $70

Departure tax: 25 CUC cash, paid locally

Iberostar Hotels & Resorts | AIR, HOTEL & TRANSFERS

Spring River Cruises ON SALE

APPLICABLE 2014 DATESMar 24 or Mar 31 Cruise the Rhine & Mosel RiversMar 27 Cruise the Rhine RiverApr 5, 8, 14 or 21* Tulip Time CruiseApr 7 or 18* Cruise the Danube River

*$599 air is not applicable to these dates. Must bebooked by December 31, 2013. Offer is space available,not combinable with any other offer, capacity controlledsubject to change at any time.

Hurry – space at these rates will not last long!

$599 p/p Return Airfarefrom Toronto or Montreal(includes transfers & all taxes)

OR

Save $1,000per stateroom

OR

NO SingleSupplement

ON–4499356/4499372200-111 Peter Street, Toronto, ON M5V 2H1

1.800.593.3334

T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L • S AT U R DAY , N O V E M B E R 1 6 , 2 0 1 3 A T5GLOBE TRAVEL •

You will not find brand-namehotels on Zanzibar. Tourism,

beyond hostels and cottages,only started to sprout on thisTanzanian island in the past dec-ade. But a handful of boutiquebeach resorts offer travellers will-ing to head off the beaten path ataste of luxury. Because of thelong flights, North Americanstypically tack Zanzibar onto theend of an African safari – a bush-and-beach vacation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Try reef walking

At low tide, the waves of the Indi-an Ocean along Bwejuu Beach onthe east coast recede more than akilometre. Grab hiking poles andreef shoes and go sploshing knee-deep in water along the reef outto the surf break, being careful toavoid spiny sea urchins. Stop topick up shells and examine seacucumbers. If you’re lucky, youmight even spot a small octopus.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Learn about the local economy

Off the eastern shore, villagewomen in long, colourful dresseswork on seaweed farms. At low

tide, they wade into the water togather the plants, which theydrag to shore and sell to a factoryto make soaps, creams and med-icine. The men stalk fish withwooden spears.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sleep like a star

Past guests at andBeyond Mnem-ba Island Lodge, located on a pri-vate island, include Bill Gates,Tom Cruise and Naomi Campbell(from $1,550 a person a night;andbeyond.com). The gleamingwhite Baraza Resort & Spa madeCondé Nast Traveler’s 2012 hotlist of best new hotels in theworld (from $1,100 a night fortwo, all inclusive; baraza-zanzi-bar.com). And its sister property,the Palms, is an adults-onlyescape with private villas over-

looking the beach ($1,220 a nightfor two, all inclusive; palms-zan-zibar.com).. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Confront history

Stone Town, in Zanzibar city’shistoric quarter, is a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site with a storiedpast. Zanzibar was once thecentre for the East African slaveand ivory trade. At its height, inthe 18th and 19th centuries,about 45,000 slaves, captured onmainland Africa, were shipped toBrazil, India and Arab countries.The old slave market and whip-ping post are a sobering remin-der of man’s cruelty. One dankunderground chamber – smallerthan a single-car garage – reput-edly imprisoned 50 chained andshackled slaves for days at a time.

Get active

Ride a bicycle on the firm coralsand of Bwejuu Beach, past fish-ermen building dhows frommangrove wood. When the windpicks up, fly through the white-caps while windsurfing or kiteboarding. There’s good snorkell-ing and scuba diving off MnembaIsland, a boat ride away. Or swim-ming with wild dolphins on thesouth coast.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Take a spice tour

Known as the “spice island,” Zan-zibar’s lush interior is full offarms growing cardamom, cinna-mon, vanilla beans and otherspices. For excellent guides –both knowledgeable and fun –try Indoma Tours (indoma-tours.com), run by two youngbrothers who hire and trainlocals.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Catch the sunset in Stone Town

It’s worth spending a night inStone Town, especially if you stayin one of the historic palaces thathave been turned into atmos-pheric boutique hotels (try Zan-zibar Palace, from $210 night;zanzibarpalacehotel.com). Kickback with a sundowner on a roof-

top lounge, or join locals by thepassenger dock and snap pics ofreturning dhows silhouettedagainst the pumpkin-orange sky.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tour Jozani National Park

The mahogany forest, near themiddle of the island, is home tored colobus monkeys found onlyon Zanzibar. About 2,000 live inthe park and a large group, habit-uated to visitors, can be observedup close near the park entrance.With their crowns of white tuftyhair, they’re awfully cute.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lounge on the beach

Ultimately, though, the beachand bathtub-warm water iswhere you want to spend most ofyour time (hey, it’s the reasonyou go to Zanzibar). BwejuuBeach is rated by Condé NastTraveler as one of the world’s 30most beautiful island beaches.More gob-smackingly gorgeousbeaches are on the north coast,with sand as fine as flour andcalm all-day swimming.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The writers stayed as guests of thehotels, which did not review orapprove this article.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Special to The Globe and Mail

EAST AFRICA

Nine unforgettable moments in Zanzibar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

JANICE MUCALOVGEORGE MUCALOVZANZIBAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

IF YOU GO

If adding Zanzibar to a Kenyasafari, look at Kenya Airways,which flies to Zanzibar fromNairobi. From Tanzania, KLMflies from Kilimanjaro to Dares Salaam, and from SouthAfrica, South African Airwaysflies from Johannesburg to Dares Salaam. From Dar, there areseveral 30-minute flights a day

to Zanzibar.Foreign Affairs Canada advis-

es travellers to Tanzania toexercise a high degree of cau-tion because of the threat ofterrorism. In September, po-lice made 15 arrests related tothree acid attacks – one ofwhich involved two Britishtourists – in recent months.