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NATURAL WONDERS OF

AUSTRALIA NEW ZEALAND

Charlie & Judith Moore

February 7-23, 2015

www.charlieandjudith.com

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Contents

INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................................... 4

NEW ZEALAND .................................................................................................................................................... 5

Saturday, February 7, 2015 "Kia Ora" (Welcome to New Zealand, "The Land of the Long White Cloud") 6

Sunday, February 8, 2015 An Auckland City Tour and Harbor Cruise ................................................... 7

Monday, February 9, 2015 Time to move on to Queenstown and the South Island. ............................... 8

Tuesday, February, 10, 2015 "Remarkable Highlights Tour" and Central Otago Winery Tour ..................... 9

Wednesday, February 11, 2015 A Steamer Voyage to the Farm and a Home – Hosted Dinner ................... 10

Thursday, February 12, 2015 Another "cracker" of a day in Milford Sound! .............................................. 11

AUSTRALIA ........................................................................................................................................................ 12

Friday, February 13, 2015 The beginning of the Chinese New Year - "The Year of the Sheep" .......... 12

Saturday, February 14, 2015 Happy Valentine’s Day! .............................................................................. 14

Sunday, February 15, 2015 Off to the Zoo! ............................................................................................. 15

Monday, February 16, 2015 To Cairns in Queensland and the Coral Princess ....................................... 16

Tuesday, February 17, 2015 Cooktown and Turtle Beach Sunrise: 0613 Sunset: 1853 .................... 19

Wednesday, February 18, 2015 Lizard Island and Ribbon Reef No. 9 .......................................................... 20

Thursday, February 19, 2015 Ribbon Reef No. 3 and Escape Reef .......................................................... 20

Friday, February 20, 2015 Goodbye Coral Princess and Hello Again, Cairns ...................................... 22

Saturday, February 21, 2015 Cairns, Aboriginal Culture Park and the Rainforest .................................... 23

Sunday, February 22, 2015 Ayers Rock ................................................................................................ 25

Monday, February 23, 2015 More Ayers Rock and Heading Home ....................................................... 26

Tuesday, February 24, 2015: On the Way Home! .................................................................................... 28

INSIGHTS:. ......................................................................................................................................................... 29

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INTRODUCTION

The Idea We were watching a documentary on Australia one evening, and at the conclusion we said, "That's it; we need to go to Australia!" In the mail, the very next day, a Smithsonian Journeys travel brochure arrived, outlining just such a trip, including New Zealand. We are extremely fortunate to have travelled to all seven continents, but we do still have a flexible "bucket list" which these two countries were on. This was clearly an act of providence, so of course we signed up! As in many prior years, our son David generously contributed the airplane tickets, just to make sure the "old folks" can still get around and then, to make sure they get back home! Thank you, David! Getting Ready I had spent one night in Auckland nearly twenty years ago, and Judith and I had both been to Sydney several times, including for the 2000 Summer Olympic Games. The rest was uncharted waters: to both North and South Islands of New Zealand and to three Australian provinces or territories - New South Wales (Sydney), Queensland (Cairns and Great Barrier Reef) and Northern Territory (Ayers Rock), whose ‘Top End’ is located just south of the Tropic of Capricorn. We had never before been away for three weeks! We even left two days early in order to hook up with two of our sons, (Charles and David), one daughter-in-law (Rita) and two grandchildren from San Francisco (Caroline and Parker) on February 4 for a "Western Moore Reunion" in Los Angeles; great fun. Thanks all of you for coming a long way just for lunch! The next day, before flying to Auckland, we visited with dear friends from New York who now live in LA. One of their three little boys is ill which is extremely sad, but we all rejoiced in our time together at lunch and seeing the new home that they were to move into the next week end – with a grapefruit tree in the backyard. Our Air New Zealans business class flight to Auckland was very comfortable. We were met by our Gohagan & Company Travel Director, Carl Bentley, who would stay with us throughout our trip and did the most professional job of making the trip the most enjoyable yet! Thank you, Carl! Fellow Travelers Our group consisted of eleven people who had signed on through the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and eighteen of us who connected through Smithsonian Journeys. We had Carl, our tour director, Scott, representing NTHP and a Smithsonian lecturer, Tom Illife. In all, thirty-two congenial folks, one small ship, eight different hotels, airplanes and multiple luggage transfers. The trip was called Natural Wonders of Australia and New Zealand" and that was our main focus. Six of our fellow travelers were from California, four from Texas, two each from Ohio, Colorado, Maryland, Michigan, Virginia, Utah, New Jersey and Pennsylvania and one each from Washington DC, Washington State and Hawaii. Twelve people signed on for the pre-trip to Auckland and twelve (not the same twelve) remained for the post-trip to Ayers Rock (now called by its Aboriginal name, Uluru). We signed up for both! Within days, we discovered that this was the most congenial, well-traveled group we had ever traveled with on a tour before. We really bonded, especially during our four days on the Coral Princess, our sea home on the Great Barrier Reef. Intent of this Journal We have always written our journals, and shared some photos: first, for our own education and edification and to record our experiences and impressions; secondly, to share with family and friends. This "Down Under" trip, largely in new areas for us, addresses (in more detail than normal), the history, culture and environment (all mostly interrelated) of the unique places we visited. While longer than most prior journals, it reflects personal experiences over three weeks that taught us so much and gave us such pleasure. We hope you enjoy it.

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NEW ZEALAND

Background It all started many millions of years ago, (a little before my time), when the great continent of Gondwanaland broke apart to form India, Australia, South America and Africa. New Zealand, an isolated result of that great cataclysm, was the last landmass to be inhabited. Cut off from the rest of the world, New Zealand developed unique flora and a rich bird life, but no mammals inhabited the land. Exactly why or from where the first New Zealanders (Maoris) originally came is uncertain, but the Maori language is most closely related to the Polynesian language of the Cook Islands and Tahiti, so it's presumed early humans ventured from those regions. It is certain, though, that a number of waka (canoes) made the journey, and Maori tribes trace their lineage to the beings who rode in them. The date of their arrival is hotly debated, ranging from as early as AD 800 up to the 13th Century. Early Maoris subsisted by hunting moa, large, easily caught birds which were mostly predator-free. These were hunted to extinction by the 14th Century giving rise to the establishment of an agriculture based economy. Kumara (sweet potatoes) then became the staple of the early Maori diet. Distinctive Maori styles of woodcarving developed, as did the use of native resources such as flax for weaving and the highly prized pounamu (greenstone) for carving. Dutch mariner, Abel Janszoon Tasman (1603-1659), sailing from Batavia (Jakarta) in the East Indies, is credited with being the first European to sight New Zealand. Crossing the sea that now bears his name, Tasman discovered New Zealand’s South Island on December 13, 1642. Five days later he anchored and was greeted by Maori trumpets. Replying in kind, the Dutch were unaware that they had unknowingly accepted a challenge to battle. Four of Tasman's men were killed, and the Dutch ships hastily pulled anchor. Tasman continued to chart the west coast of the North Island but dared not go ashore again. Named Nieuw Zeeland, after the Dutch province of the same name, this new world was deemed hostile and lacking in commercial interest, and no Europeans visited again for more than 127 years. In 1769, British explorer James Cook (1728-1779) spent six months circumnavigating New Zealand in his ship, HMS Endeavor. Cook came away with a very different view of the country. From Nieuw Zeeland, he sailed to Australia and became the first European to chart the east coast of that country. Given the problems early Europeans experienced in New Zealand, the British decided to establish their first Pacific colony at Port Jackson (Sydney) in Australia in 1788, using convicts from Britain's overcrowded prisons to develop the colony. As the penal colony expanded, men looked across the Tasman Sea for economic opportunities. Based on Cook's report of an abundance of seals prized for their fur, sealers established a base at the bottom of the South Island in 1792. The British appointed William Hobson lieutenant governor of the new colony in 1840 at Waitangi. The Treaty of Waitangi, transferring sovereignty to Britain, was signed by British and Maori Chiefs on February 6, 1840. We arrived in Auckland the day after the 175th anniversary! Annexation paved the way for wholesale settlement, as missionaries flooded in and Maori disenchantment with the new order grew. Many wars followed but the British maintained its control of the colony, and profits and stability brought prosperity. In 1900, New Zealand's GDP per capita was the highest in the world; in 1893, New Zealand became the first country in the world to give women the national vote. In 1907, New Zealand went from colony to dominion status, and in 1947, New Zealand ratified the Statute of Westminster, which brought complete autonomy from Britain in foreign as well as domestic affairs. Today, with a population of 4.4 million, around 15% identified as Maori and 80% European, New Zealand is called "Two people, One country". We travelers are here for only six days – not nearly long enough to absorb the aforementioned, let alone do any serious sightseeing! New Zealand stretches north to south for more than 1000 miles, from the sandy subtropical peninsula at its northern tip to the glacier-carved fjords in the far south. In between lie snow-covered peaks, smoking volcanoes, vast lakes, dark forests and fertile grasslands. It is a highly active region of earthquake, volcano and geothermal activity, part of the "Pacific Ring of Fire". We are convinced New Zealand is truly the “Jewel of the South Pacific”!

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Saturday, February 7, 2015: "Kia Ora" (Welcome to New Zealand, "The Land of the Long White Cloud")

Air New Zealand is terrific! Arriving in Auckland an hour early, we had covered the 6,500 miles from LA to Auckland in 12 hours. The sky was overcast as it had been raining fairly steadily; I guess until the Kiwis heard we were coming. Auckland, "The City of Sails", is a harbor city on a narrow strip of land on the Pacific Ocean to the east but only five miles from the western Tasman Sea. It boasts the largest Polynesian population in the world. Aucklanders take pride in the fact that they build nearly all America's Cup racing craft, including Larry Ellison's, and that they're famous for breeding thoroughbred racehorses. The North Island can also lay claim to forty-nine "mono-generic" volcanoes, which our guide tells us, means they only erupt once in their lifetime. New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road. On our way in from the airport, we passed the Sky Tower built some 12 years ago reaching a height of 1076' and popular as a base for sky jumping. We didn't explore that any further! We checked into the Stamford Plaza Hotel, unpacked (the first of 8 times!), rested and cleaned up, then went for a walk. The hotel is only one and a half blocks from the harbor. Before dinner, I tried, unsuccessfully, to call the widow of John Holland, who "split the Russians" by winning a bronze medal in the 400 meter hurdle finals in Helsinki in 1952. I had visited briefly with John and his wife during my only visit to Auckland thirty years ago. Judith and I had a wonderful dinner at the Harborside, enjoying a fileted John Dory for two (see photo), complemented by a great New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a glorious view of the harbor. A good start to our pre-trip visit to Auckland!

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Sunday, February 8, 2015: An Auckland City Tour and Harbor Cruise

We were greeted with a Maori Proverb: "He toi whakairo, he mana tangata" which means, “Where there is artistic excellence, there is human dignity”. It set the tone for the day. Auckland, by far the largest city in New Zealand, has a population of 1.4 million, 23% of which is Polynesian, the largest Polynesian population outside of the islands. On our tour, we saw: - Victoria Park - West Haven Marina, the largest of many in this city of islands

and waterways - Auckland Harbor Bridge, built in 1959 and later enlarged by

4 lanes by a Japanese contractor, so now it's called the “Nippon Clip-on"

- “The Solstice”, the largest cruise ship to enter the harbor (2,000 passengers)

- A large area specifically re-developed for the 2011 World Rugby Cup

- bucket winch (photo at right) along the harbor, - America's Cup ceremonial buildings; New Zealand won in

1995 and 2000 - domination of Asian built cars; local car manufacturing has

been discontinued - multiple grain silos and ship container rigs along the harbor - Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World and Antarctic Encounter - Bastion Point - Location of Savage Memorial Park, named

after NZ’s first Labor Prime Minister, Michael Joseph Savage. There is a splendid statue (photo) and lovely gardens. World War II concrete fortifications also share this historic space. The area was historically a Maori pa, (fortified village) and the site of 506 days of Maori protest in 1977 against the government appropriation of the site for residential development. Ten years of litigation followed after which the area was returned to the Ngati Whatua tribe and remains in native hands today.

- beautiful Norfolk Island Pine - Community of Parnell and St. Mary’s Anglican Church

(Gothic Revival, built in 1886 and considered NZ’s finest old wooden church), as well as the nearby Catholic Holy Trinity Cathedral.

- Stop at Auckland Domain (200 acres of parks, ponds and cricket pitches) to visit the Auckland Museum, as well as to witness a Maori Cultural Performance. The museum, (the original part built in 1930), is thought to be one of the best in the Southern Hemisphere, especially for its Maori and

Pacific treasures. Judith and I were also intrigued with the stuffed bird collection and impressed with their conservation lab.

Our tour bus then dropped us off at the Viaduct Harbor area for our "Pride of Auckland" (left) lunch and sail/cruise. The weather cooperated and accommodated a great sail around the harbor for several hours. After the sail, on our own, we toured the nearby Maritime Museum, which proved to be very interesting. Fortified by some rest and reading, we had a Thai dinner at the hotel’s Grasshopper Restaurant.

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Monday, February 9, 2015: Time to move on to Queenstown and the South Island.

Rising early, we flew from Auckland to Queenstown, New Zealand’s "Adventure City". With a population of 20,000 and 40 to 70 inches of rain a year, this is a charming community and a haven for “outdoorsy” tourists. Many see it as a twin city to Aspen in the US. In the Queenstown airport, we were joined by the rest of our Natural Wonders travelers and bussed to the Royal Lakeside Novotel, situated at the end of the Wakatipu Lake. The town, as advertised, offers adventure: Shotover River jet skiing, Bungee jumping, Bob’s Peak Skyline gondola, 2 casinos, skiing, and water sports as well as Fergburger's (world's greatest hamburger). Once settled in, we met and had lunch with Tom Illife, our Smithsonian expert and Professor of Marine Biology from Texas A & M University at Galveston and Research Associate with the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History. His specialty is Bio speleology (cave biology) and Scientific Diving.

Judith investigated St. Peter’s Church, the Anglican center of Queenstown. The corner stone was laid by the Ven. L. C. Whitehead, Archdeacon of Central Otago on June 22, 1932. This was the same day we heard of our good friend, John Whitehead’s, death at 92 in New York City. Incidentally, the builder of the church was Wm. McLellan. Later, we wondered through the Queenstown Botanical Gardens, which offer spectacular walks among very old trees like Wellingtonia Sequoias, Common Alders, Daun Redwoods, Pin Oaks and Mountain Gum (Eucalyptus) and Monkey Puzzles. In addition to lakes and trails, they have a Frisbee golf course (18 holes of par 3s and 4s), tennis and lawn bowling, all adjacent to beautiful Lake Wakatipu. With

our gang all assembled, we had a group reception with introductions and briefings with Carl, after which the two of us dined at the Fishbone Bar & Grill: Judith had flounder and I had grōper -- the very best! We are going to like Queenstown!

Sequoia Monkey Puzzle Tree

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Tuesday, February, 10, 2015: "Remarkable Highlights Tour" and Central Otago Winery Tour

In "Kiwi” language, it was a "cracker" of a day (i.e. starting chilly and getting warmer with lots of sun). After our best buffet breakfast yet, (Judith loves the latté machines which also produce steamed milk), we took off on our "Remarkable" tour and saw our first herds of sheep! We watched people paragliding from Bob’s Peak on our way to Arrowtown, an authentic gold mining town from the 1860s. Arrowtown has a quaint "western style" main street, ringed with cafes, pubs and arts & crafts shops. Our first stop was the Lake District Museum, which houses an excellent collection of gold mining relics and wonderful hand painted photographs. To handle the influx of miners during the Gold Rush, they imported 2000 Chinese workers, who, when they weren’t panning for gold, often smoked opium and gambled. We walked the streets of this charming town and visited the remains of the Chinese settlement there. Next came the Old Kawarau Bridge, where A.J. Hackett (born 1958 near Auckland) staged the first bungee jump in 1988. We saw 8 or more jumps @$195. The jumper is harnessed from waist to feet and jumps down 43 meters to be suspended head first over the torrents below. Amazing! One couple jumped harnessed together! Over age 75, you don't have to pay, and a man holds the record at age 94. I can go back when I turn 95 and capture the World Record! No, I was not even tempted! They also have a less expensive zip ride, which was closed for maintenance. Returning to our hotel, we dropped off some of our group, and began a leisurely wine tour into the Central Otago Region, where over 70% of the wine produced is Pinot Noir. What we found:

1. Gibbston Valley was initially planted by Alan Brady

in 1981. We visited the vineyards and storage cave. In this area, the locals enjoy "continental weather" and "global soil". Grape vines have roots that go down 20'! The grapes are handpicked and the cave where the wine is aged maintains 14 degrees Centigrade and 80% humidity. French oak barrels are bought at NZ$1600 each, and must be replaced every six years. Use of cork for capping the wine was discontinued in 2002. We tasted a 2014 Riesling, a 2013 Pinot Gris and 2011 Pinot Noir, after which we enjoyed a "harvest platter" luncheon (below).

2. Mt. Rosa Vineyard began as a Merino sheep

station. Here, we tasted five wines! The growers plant a rosebush at the end of each row of vines. This is very pretty and we thought might signify the name of the vineyard. But, no, it’s just aesthetics!

3. Amisfield Vineyard, where we tasted four wines and sent one case of Pinot Noir home. You may notice that the tour details get sketchier as the wine is consumed!

On the ride back to our hotel, most "rested" while we passed by the Remarkable Mountain range (2,600 meter max. height). Upon our return, we attended our first lecture. “Earth: The Ocean Planet"-- by Tom Iliffe, or as Tom says “Oceanography 101”!

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I already knew that the ocean accounts for 71% of the earth's surface but didn't know that the ocean supplies 97% of our fresh water! Tom discussed ocean activities such as hurricanes, earthquakes, plate subductions and volcanoes. I was surprised to learn that the Pacific Ocean is shrinking, while the Atlantic is expanding. And that ocean surface currents north of the equator go clockwise, while currents south of the equator go counter-clockwise. A new predator, a very unusual looking fish called "lion fish", has taken up residence in the world's oceans. Its fins are poisonous and it is proving hard to eradicate. Naturally, this is not subject matter you want to have stand between you and dinner!

However, we dined enthusiastically at the Botswana Butchery on lamb, washed down with Pinot Noir.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015: A Steamer Voyage to the Farm and a Home – Hosted Dinner

It's another "cracker" of a day and the opportunity to take the T.S.S Earnslaw, a coal generated steamship, to the end of Lake Wakatipu, landing at the Walter Peak High Country Farm. The steamer was built in 1868 and is a wonderful relic of the gold mining boom. The farm was initially established in 1869 as a sheep station. We got a lesson in sheep shearing (normally starts in early September) and in the economics of both Merino (finer and of better quality) vs. cross-breed wool (coarser but plentiful). This was followed by a demonstration in how sheep dogs work, very interesting! After a wonderful BBQ lunch in the Farmhouse, we checked out pens of Alpaca and Merino sheep, Red Deer and Highland Cattle (Judith's favorite).

The steamboat trip up and down could not .have been more picturesque, including watching the para-sailors drifting lazily from the top of Bob's Peak. The lake water IS crystal clear and a brilliant turquoise color. Some rest was in order before being transported to individually hosted dinners, giving us the chance to chat with local Kiwis about life in this amazing country. Our hosts were Raewyn and Gary McRitchie. Raewyn served vegetable soup, lamb, both kumara (sweet) and regular roasted potatoes, carrots, peas and Pavlova, the national dessert of both New Zealand and Australia. Gary was a former sheep farmer and now spends most of his time involved with people-to-people activities like arranging this series of dinners for travelers. Five of us were treated to a delicious dinner courtesy of the McRitchies and a stimulating, wide-ranging conversation.

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Thursday, February 12, 2015: Another "cracker" of a day in Milford Sound!

Today, we board a scenic transfer coach through the countryside to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Te Wahipounamu where, according to Maori legend, the demigod Tu Te Raki Whanoa created what today is New Zealand's stunning Fjordland. Our drive, along the Remarkable Mountain range was spectacular. Fun facts for the day: only the Rockies, Andes and the Remarkable ranges run north and south. Our "local" Lake Wakatipu, 48 miles long, is the third longest lake in New Zealand. Our destination, Lake Te Anua, is the second longest. Along the way, we saw "zillions” of sheep, although, over the last twenty years, their numbers have dropped from over 50 million to less than 30 million. Still, the sheep to people ratio exceeds 5:1! And in case you're interested, there are 19 species of Merino sheep. We also saw Red Deer and dairy cattle, the "new" farming business given the low price of wool. At one time, it was fashionable to hunt for deer from helicopters. This is no longer allowed. They also cross-breed the deer and elk, producing a wapiti. In Mossburn, we were introduced to the Plunket Society, a group of nurses that help mothers with their newborn infants. Named for the wife of the then New Zealand governor in 1907, the society was created to assure health care for all young children. Our coach driver was proud to say he is a "Plunket Baby". Plants and trees along the highway include broome and gorseflax (used by the Maori to weave), and red tussock grass. Trees include silver and black ash, bog pine and Norfolk Pine. We did not see the Takahu bird, but were told of its recovery from near extinction since 1948. Thanks to careless introduction into New Zealand, the island is now overrun by opossums and stoats. Both are serious pests and we regularly saw poison traps set along the roadways, to thin their numbers. The Milford Trek is a world-class hike of four days with various kinds of experiences. Milford Sound is the second wettest spot in the world, having an average of 8 meters of rainfall a year! As we proceeded to the Edlinger Valley and into the glacial lake area, we passed through the Turato Mountains and Crystal Falls and worked our way through the crossover divide and through new tunnel, which is 1.2 miles long and was dug by hand from 1935-1954. To aid in our descent the tunnel was built with a 1:10 decline. We stopped to hike "The Chasm", described here by our photos. What a beautiful wooded area! We eventually arrived in Fjordland National Park. At Milford Sound, we boarded the "Milford Sovereign" for a picnic lunch and the most beautiful cruise through the fiord and out into the Tasman Sea, complete with dolphins and seals.

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Filled with admiration/astonishment for everything we had seen throughout the morning and early afternoon, we still had one more treat in store. We were to fly back over the Southern Alps to Queenstown in a tiny eight-seater airplane. We flew into, over and among exquisite mountains and glacier lakes. But I am ahead of my story: our travel agent chartered five of these little planes. The other four left as scheduled but our plane's battery system didn’t work, so we had to wait for a replacement to "rescue us". Several hours later, we landed back in Queenstown after this thrilling experience. It really was most exciting, if you like twin engine little planes that can take you right into and among the glaciers! Back on land and still trembling, we were driven to our hotel. After a restorative drink, Judith and I went to Winnie's Gourmet Pizza House which turned out to have the best pizza ever! Back to the hotel to pack for a very early departure – still in awe when we remembered how very close we had come to those magnificent mountains.

AUSTRALIA

Friday, February 13, 2015: The beginning of the Chinese New Year - "The Year of the Sheep"

We had a 5:45 am start, and I was suffering from a "pesky" cold and sore throat. This was our day to fly to Sydney via Auckland. Everywhere we looked there were decorations celebrating Chinese New Year. We didn’t have to worry about missing it as the celebration runs through March 17! First on the day’s list was taking advantage of my last Novotel buffet breakfast (the best in the entire trip), where I even learned to "whip up" my own carrot and apple "smoothie "! As I did for New Zealand, let me introduce you to Australia with its own background: Looking back, Australia's first inhabitants arrived from Asia 50,000 to 60,000 years ago; some sources say that it was even earlier. The first migrations to Australia were most likely spurred by a period of glacial advance that encouraged the cave dwellers of the northern hemisphere to head for the sunbelt (much like we Laporte “cave dwellers”!). As ice caps accumulated, sea levels dropped drastically. So, in search of greener pastures, or more space, or perhaps having just been blown off course, the original immigrants arrived in Australia by boat from the north. For millennia, the Aborigines had Australia to themselves. Eventually, the rest of the world began closing in. Everybody seemed to be looking for Terra Australis Incognita, the "Unknown Land of the South". Throughout the 16th Century, explorers from Europe kept their eyes open for the legendary continent and its presumed riches. The first known landing was by a Dutch captain, Willem Jansz, in 1606, who reported “there is no good to be done there" and weighed anchor to return home. In 1642, the Dutch East India Company dispatched their ace seafarer, Abel Tasman, to track down the "farthest continent". On his first expedition, Tasman discovered an island he called Van Diemen's Land -- now known as Tasmania. A couple of years later, he was sent back to explore much of the coast of northern Australia but he still found no gold, silver or spices and had nothing

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good to say about the indigenous people. The Dutch named Australia “New Holland” but they believed the land so unpromising that they never bothered to claim it. Almost by accident, Captain James Cook, the celebrated British navigator, landed on the east coast of Australia in 1770 on a return trip to England from Tahiti. Aboard his ship, HMS Endeavor, were naturalists, Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander. They found so many fascinating species that Cook was moved to name the place he landed, Botany Bay. Cook claimed all the territory he charted for George III, calling it New South Wales. In 1779, Joseph Banks, by now president of the Royal Society, had a novel idea. He proposed colonizing Australia, but instead of conventional settlers, he would send out convicts as pioneers. These convicts were not hardened criminals, but instead were petty thieves, perjurers and other miscreants. This plan, he contended, would solve the crisis in Britain's overflowing jails. In May 1787, the British government began the transportation of criminals to Australia; the program was to endure for 80 years. In that time, more than 160,000 convicts were shipped to begin a new life "Down Under". Captain Arthur Phillip, a retired naval officer was put in command of the first fleet of nine vessels carrying nearly 1500 people, more than half of them convicts, on an eight month voyage from Portsmouth, England to New South Wales. When Phillip, now the Governor, came ashore at Botany Bay, he found, unlike Cook's rosy claims, no shelter from the east winds, not enough fresh water and the “meadowlands” were actually swamps. Governor Phillip and a reconnaissance party sailed just 12 miles up the coast and discovered Sydney Cove, "the finest and most extensive harbor in the universe", with "safe anchorage for all the navies in Europe"! The fleet reassembled at Sydney Cove on January 26, 1778, now celebrated as the Australian national holiday, and the British flag was raised over the colony. The remaining highlights can be summarized: - 1845 gold rush - 1855 England approved NSW's Constitution - 1901 Commonwealth of Australia established under the Queen of England - 1990 Government Commission granted indigenous people power to make decisions, etc. - 2008 Prime Minister Rudd apologizes to the “Stolen Generations" - 2015 "The Smithsonian Journeys invasion" Today, Australia is the sixth largest country in the world, encompassing landscape and climate ranging from desert to rainforest, and mountains to plains. Of the population of 22 million, 77% live in New South Wales, Victoria and Queensland and 10 million in just Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. Their economy has been strong but like most other economies, is being challenged by recession and higher than desired unemployment figures. Currently, unemployment is 6.4%, the highest in 12 years. Their Federal Reserve just cut the official cash rate to a record low of 2 1/4%. Their once- popular Prime Minister, Tony Abbott, is now threatened from all quarters, including for his unprecedented recent act of knighting Prince Philip. Australia is home to the oldest living culture in the world -- that of the indigenous Australians (Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders). These First Australians have a complex and mutually supportive relationship with the landscape and a rich social, cultural and linguistic heritage. For too long, the rights of Australia's Aborigines and Torres Straits Islanders were suppressed by the white majority. Still, their cultures and spirits flourish. Aboriginal culture is underpinned by 'the Dreamtime', a belief that puts Aboriginal history, traditions and culture under a single mythological roof. Dreamtime stories recount how ancestral heroes created the stars, the earth and all creatures. They explain the origins of Australia's unique animals and plants, and how humans can live in harmony with nature. The land plays a crucial part in Dreamtime lore, and responsibility for protecting significant sites is central to Aboriginal spiritual life. For example, Uluru/Ayers Rock, the world's largest monolith, which we will visit, is sacred to the local Anangu people. And now to get on with February 13, 2015 and Sydney! This was my fourth visit here, including our trip in 2000 for the Sydney Summer Olympics. After a brief bus ride, we checked into the grand old Grace Hotel, at the corner of King Street and York. It was rebuilt in 1930 but before that it was the site of the original Sydney Opera House. Unpacking yet again, we immediately took off to find a medical clinic, where I would get an antibiotic prescription , and then to the Apple Store, to sort out why my I-Pad

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refused to work at all. All challenges were met, and I was back in business! Judith and I set off for Nick's Seafood House in Darling Harbor and had to brave a torrential rain shower Thank heaven for the Grace’s offer of an umbrella! This was the only really bad weather we had the whole trip. The restaurant was crowded and the food just OK but we celebrated being back in Sydney!

Saturday, February 14, 2015 Happy Valentine’s Day!

And what a day it would prove to be! Starting with a city tour of Sydney and environs, which took us to the Rocks area, Circular Quay, with views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge from Mrs. Macquarie's Chair (see cover). We rode through Chinatown, Kings Cross and Double Bay, Heartbreak Hill, Vaucluse and Rose Bay Harbor, named after Governor Philip’s friend, George Rose. Nearby was The Royal Sydney Golf Club onto which the Japanese lobbed ten bombs during World War II. Seven of them exploded, two were later found and disarmed but the last one was known as a “local hazard” for more than 70 years. It has since been found on the third hole and destroyed. It's fair to say that much of our route was through the "privileged" sections of Sydney, including checking out the most elite boarding schools, upscale shopping areas and well-known hospitals. Ornamental ironwork decorates many of the lovely old homes in these leafy suburbs.

We settled in for a gelato at Bondi Beach where the sights tended more toward swimming apparel than historic buildings, etc. Myna birds joined us for any leftover crumbs.

In the afternoon, we visited and toured the magnificent Sydney Opera House, clearly one of the great architectural landmarks in the world. Designed by the Danish architect, Jora Utzon, construction began in 1959 but Utzon's project was fraught with difficulties, escalating costs and a slew of misunderstandings, which eventually led to his resignation in 1966. By the time the building was opened by the Queen in 1972, its costs exceeded $102 million, 15 times the initial estimate! It was worth it as it may just be the best combination of building and site in the world! The people of Australia, and everybody else, love it, and so do we! We visited all three performing centers: Drama Theater; concert hall which seats 2,669 and opera house which seats 1,547. One of the best features for those attending a performance is the seats, designed by an orthopedic surgeon and which are the most comfortable ever! They are now talking about additional renovation, to the extent of AUS $600 million, to address acoustic problems, etc. This project will likely depend on which party is in office: the Labor Party favors culture and were the ones who initiated the Opera House construction; the Liberal Party came in and did everything possible to scuttle the construction.

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After the day’s excitement, we decided to go opal shopping, and purchased a beautiful White opal ring and earrings. As most of you know, I have never recognized Valentine’s Day believing every day to be special. Judith bought this for 44 years. I think I made up for 44 years of neglect! A short nap and we dressed for dinner at the Aria (left photo), an elegant gourmet restaurant right on East Circular Quay and next to the Opera House, where we went to see Madame Butterfly. To continue with our Valentine Day celebration, they served free champagne at intermission! Not a bad day even if it was nearly impossible to find a taxi back to the Grace; at least it wasn't raining! How could it on such a romantic day!

Sunday, February 15, 2015: Off to the Zoo!

Today, we are going to the suburbs to visit Featherdale Wildlife Park. We left Sydney via the Anzac Bridge, which, architecturally, we like as much as the Harbor Bridge, passing on the way, the Sydney Fish Market, the UTS Rowing Club, and a village expressly built to be "slumless, lawless and public” in the 19 th Century. The Featherdale Wildlife Park offers an amazing collection of reptiles, mammals and birds. Our principal focus was the birds. We were scarcely in the door before we were greeted by the Australian King Parrot, Bush Stone-Curlew, Rainbow Lorikeet, Chestnut Teel, Green Catbird, Satin Bowerbird, Channel-Billed Cuckoo, Wonga Pigeon, Topknot Pigeon, Spring-Cheeked and Blue-Faced Honeyeater, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, the Tawny Frogmouth, the Spectacled Flying Fox (fruit bat which hangs upside down from high tree branches), the Black-Necked Ibis (visitors, not residents) the Crested Tern, an Apostlebird, Little Corella, the Emu, Southern Cassawary and last but not least, the Laughing Kookabura, among many others. That's some variety! To mix it up, we also visited the Common Wombat, the Long-Nosed Potoroo, the Common Goanna (with "rapid" tongue), Eastern Skink, Crocodiles, Kangaroos, Wallabys and Dingoes. Since I was into it, and getting very confused, I started taking more photos including Merton's Water Monitor, Eastern Wallaroo, Whistling Kite, Black- Breasted Buzzard, Brahminy Kite, Brolga, Spotted Quail, Black-Necked Stork, Tasmanian devil, and Short- Beaked Echidnas. With all of that unique bird life, can you believe that the gift shop was out of good bird books? On our way back to Sydney, we drove through the Olympic Park, which we had so enjoyed in 2000. Later by chance, I reached out to Ivan Curotta, author of "With Wings on their Feet", in which he chronicled collegiate track and field competition, mostly the Oxford-Cambridge International Exchange with Harvard and Yale and with Cornell and Princeton from 1894 to 1957. We had tea with Ivan and

his wife Mary and enjoyed hearing more about his research on the subject. Judith went to St. Andrew’s Cathedral nearby to what she expected would be a nice Anglican Evensong. Wrong! “Praise” music complete with visual aids and guitars! I stayed behind and sent “business" emails. We had had a lovely lunch that day in the Queen Victoria Building, a magnificent structure turned into a shopping mall, so were not very hungry and settled for a hamburger in a simple pub across the street from the Grace Hotel.

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Galah Koala Australian King Parrot

Echidna

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Black Breasted Buzzard

Tawny Frogmouth Wallabys

Tasmanian Devil Sulphur Crested Cockatoo + Charlie

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Monday, February 16, 2015: To Cairns in Queensland and the Coral Princess

Up again, very early (bags out before 6am) to fly from Sydney to Cairns and our introduction to the Great Barrier Reef, 1,250 nautical miles of submerged subtropical gardens full of marine life and one of the world's undisputed natural wonders. Here, off the northeastern coast of Australia, many millions of minuscule cells multiply relentlessly, growing into an infinite variety of colored forms to create the world's largest living phenomenon. The reef dates back to the last Ice Age when the current continental shelf was exposed. As the sea level rose, all the beaches, dunes and barrier islands were submerged, providing the perfect platform for reef colonies -- tiny animal organisms that multiply to build a coral reef. As the sea level rose, the reef grew. In periods when sea level fell, exposed coral broke off and this reef debris raised the level of the shelf floor in the reef zone. The Great Barrier Reef (GBR), the only living thing on earth that can be seen from the moon, is home to 400 different kinds of coral and a seemingly infinite array of vividly colored marine creatures. Proclaimed a marine park in 1975, the Reef was placed on the World Heritage list in 1981, becoming the biggest World Heritage site in existence. Nearly 7 million tourists and recreational visitors come to the Reef each year, placing enormous pressure on its fragile eco-system. As we had to wait for our ship to turn around from another excursion, we had plenty of time to explore Cairns, while our bags were being taken directly to the dock.

Population 170,000, Cairns’ principal trade is tourism, although they do produce sugar, exporting 80% of it in the unrefined form. At one time, Cairns was considered the "fishing capital of Australia". It is very warm and humid, as we are only 15 degrees below the equator. Our first visit was to the Doongal Aboriginal Art shop, where, to our delight, we purchased two relatively small paintings by an artist called Wiradjuri (b.1956) in Dubbo, NSW. One painting is called “Dreamtime Map,” the other is called “Telling of Dreamtime Stories.” Both are acrylic on canvas and painted in 2009. The former represents the travels of ancestors; the latter is about elders sitting in a circle sharing their stories with the next generation of

young men who will hand on the stories. Thank you, John and Barbara Wilkerson, for introducing us to this delightful art form. We had been driven around the area earlier, and there was not that much left to see, so we settled in for lunch and wine! Finally, it was time to board the “Coral Princess”, a Catamaran-type vessel with a warm friendly crew of 12. After the obligatory maritime safety instructions, we were treated to a fabulous seafood dinner consisting of Morten Bugs (tiny lobsters), prawns, snapper and all kinds of salads. By now, we had pulled up the anchor and, while the Coral Sea wasn't very choppy, our “stablerizer-less” ship was really rolling. Suffice it to say, it was a rough night at sea but all we had to do was lay in our beds and try to sleep, or not!

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Tuesday, February 17, 2015: Cooktown and Turtle Beach Sunrise: 0613 Sunset: 1853

We dropped anchor just off Cooktown for a visit to this sleepy little town where Captain Cook beached his damaged ship HMS Endeavour for much needed repairs in 1770. We were tendered ashore very early in the morning by our glass bottom boat. We were greeted by a sign: “No Swimming: Crocodiles". No worries! There is a wonderful statue of Captain James Cook

with the message, "He left nothing unattended". (After all, he did stay 48 days before sailing on to England, leaving behind quite a legacy). Cooktown is charming and retains historic references of the gold rush, lumbering, tin mining and agriculture. Queen Elizabeth II visited the town but could not take advantage of the concrete steps built especially for the occasion because the tide was too high (photo at left).

Most impressive were the many visible records of Cooktown’s history. My favorite was the Milbi (story) wall, complete with story tiles made by the Aboriginal people. Our hike up the mountain to see a botanical garden got way too arduous and even though it was still early, the heat was stifling. I left the "forced march" and hitchhiked back to the ship. Pretty, blonde Anna from Perth picked me up and drove me directly to the dock, giving me extra time to explore. Two restaurants, a few shops, a museum (none of which were open this early) and a lovely park where parents were attempting to teach their little children how to handle a cricket bat and a few houses. That was about it. While our weather was fine, hot but overcast, it had rained 11 inches the previous week. The "stalwart marchers" returned, and we were transported back to our ship for lunch, after which we had a slide presentation on the Great Barrier Reef and its inhabitants on our way to Turtle Beach to snorkel and swim. There are only two ways, either by scuba diving or snorkeling, to begin to appreciate the fancifully shaped coral, gently waving in the tide, along with the blazing, brightly colored fish darting into and out of sight, pushing a cloud of a thousand silver minnows ahead of them. This natural kaleidoscope is unique, and it is extraordinary. Snorkeling was planned for the afternoon (how many years has it been since the last time we did this?). First, Kristy provided basic instruction, especially on how to signal for help, etc. Then, it was time to get fitted out in Stinger suits! These are ultra light, full-length body suits, complete with gloves, socks and hood, as protection from stinging jellyfish (notice the suited-up "explorers" in the photos on page 20!) and finally, to get fitted with the ship's snorkeling gear, masks and fins. Our glass bottom boat ferried us to Turtle Beach. Notwithstanding some prior experience years and years ago, it required help and encouragement to get me afloat in the sea to snorkel! Once there, it was magical and exhilarating. Judith and I were "buddies" (nothing new about that!), and we saw so much it is impossible to describe. After our third swim, we finally agreed to call it a day. We were comfortable knowing we had two more days to repeat this experience.

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Back on the beach, we were treated to an antipasto tray and champagne! Back aboard ship, we rinsed off some of the sand and salt, showered and got ready for a barbecue dinner of grilled Kangaroo, Spanish mackerel and the best Pavlova ever. We remained anchored for the night, which promoted sound sleeping, for which we were all ready!

Wednesday, February 18, 2015 Lizard Island and Ribbon Reef No. 9

After a refreshing night’s sleep and a sumptuous breakfast, we both decided to pass on the Chinamans Ridge walk off Watsons Bay and more snorkeling off Lizard Island, in order to read (Judith) and catch up on this journal (Charlie). After lunch, Tom Iliffe presented on “Coral Reefs: Gardens of the Sun", as we sailed on to our first outer GBR location, Ribbon Reef No. 9, where we snorkeled off the boat. The Ribbon Reefs stretch from the eastern edge of the GBR between Lookout Point and Cape Tribulation, separated by narrow passages. They are numbered one to ten going north up the coast and offer spectacular coral viewing.

In our lecture on Coral Reef Ecology, we learned that, while coral reefs cover only 1/10 of 1% of the ocean's floor, it is home to 25% of existing marine life! Coral is characterized as either island habitants or continental; it is mainly found in the Caribbean, Indo-Pacific and the Red Sea. Coral reefs are further defined as “fringing" (close to shore) and "barrier" (separated from shore by lagoon). The temperature of ocean must be between 20 and 30 C (68-86F) to grow coral, of which there are two kind: hard and soft.

Our snorkeling from the boat was terrific: more confined than the day before. The coral was more complex and more colorful, but with comparatively fewer fish. After a shower and "tea" (really peach cobbler and wine!), we went on a glass bottom boat tour and got closer to the reef with our instructor, Kristy. She helped us identify “sweet-lips", brain and staghorn coral, sea cucumbers, parrot fish, etc. Still, it's all very foreign to me; I think I'll stick with people on land! Shortly after our coral reef tour, we pulled anchor and headed for Ribbon Reef No. 3, where we anchored for the night and another good night’s sleep. For dinner, we had our choice of pork bellies or lamb rump; we both chose the pork bellies, and they were delicious. We finished our dinner with a lemon tart.

Thursday, February 19, 2015 Ribbon Reef No. 3 and Escape Reef

Did you know that Jacques Cousteau once said, "The greatest resource of the ocean is not material but the boundless spring of inspiration and well-being we gain from her"? On that happy note, we bounded from bed to be greeted with another "cracker" of a day! We arrived at Ribbon Reef No. 3 just in time for breakfast. As we had the opportunity to snorkel or dive at 8:00 am, I wore my smart Stinger suit to breakfast! Again, we snorkeled right off the back of the boat. The sea was rougher, and we saw larger fish and lots of jellyfish (but only, we found later, the safe "moon" jellies). We had a spectacular view of the reef, its natural beauty and exciting inhabitants. We were even able to identify some of our beautiful

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fish friends; for example: Parrot Fish, Butterfly Fish, etc. To reinforce this "beginners learning", we followed our snorkeling with another glass bottom boat exploration. Just terrific! Later this morning, Tom Iliffe gave his third lecture on "Cave Diving: The Most Dangerous Science"

Tom shared his own "speleology" (study of caves) experience in the Bahamas (blue holes up to 650' deep), Yucatan Peninsula (along with the Bahamas where caves are formed from phosphate), Canary Islands (caves formed by volcanoes), Bermuda and Christmas Islands (near coast of Indonesia). He explained that the caves are open to the air and the hydrogen/sulfur dioxide "cloud", called "halocline" is where the fresh water changes to salt water. Crustaceans survive in the salt water as they can tolerate a much lower level of oxygen environment. The professional divers, like Tom, use a closed-circuit re-breather system; still, the decompression from 120' takes 2 hours including 1 hour for the last 20'. Tom claims that his equipment (and back up) will permit him to be down for up to 8 hours but you always must return when one-third of your air is consumed. During the last Ice Age, sea level was over 100 meters lower than present, accounting for some of the stalactite and stalagmite formations found in caves today.

During lunch, and who wouldn't eat after being exposed to that information, we traveled to Escape Reef, after which we took part in two glass bottom boat excursions, in lieu of one more snorkeling. By now, I had wanted to take photos of the coral and fish from the boat (the examples here are better than words but still leave a lot to be desired). Later, our guide Kristy prepared a "touch tank" with some marine animals and coral. Prior to dinner, we had a highly spirited Farewell Reception, while taking photos of the sunset over Cape Tribulation. For dinner, we had our choice of trout or filet mignon, both brilliantly prepared and presented. We chose the former, and it was outstanding. Another perfect day on the GBR!

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Friday, February 20, 2015 Goodbye Coral Princess and Hello Again, Cairns

We arrived in Cairns on the dot of 8:00 am, as announced. The weather was hot, over 32° C (90 F) and muggy. In our absence, they had had nearly 20" of rain in 24 hours. Still, the sky was a deep blue. Most weather stations were talking about the Category 5 tropical cyclone, Marcia, that was working its way down the coast toward Brisbane. At the same time, there's another cyclone, Lim, wreaking havoc in the Northern Territory. And there we were enjoying life under a clear blue sky! We had an unbelievable final breakfast of Eggs Benedict and bade farewell to our wonderful crew of 12. We believe this was the best chef we have ever had on any ship of any size! The whole crew had done an amazing job and were getting ready to turn the ship around for their next excursion that afternoon; we were to go on a short tour of the city, with the principal destination being the Cairns Botanical Gardens. As the included photos will attest, the Gardens were spectacular. Of particular interest was their Aboriginal Rain Forest Plant area, including the umbrella tree (Schefflera), fish poison tree (boil bark to kill fish to eat) and stinger tree, which was around when the dinosaurs were. In raw form, the Aboriginal people eat the Davidson's Plum, and Cedar Bay Cherries. The entire gardens were lovely and well maintained. Along the highway, we saw black and white cockatoos and red and yellow poinsettias. The yellows are indigenous; the red is imported from Madagascar. The red blooms in November, and children call it the "Christmas tree". Coconut palms are plentiful but are "de-nutted" in public areas to avoid liability from falling coconuts. In the distance, we could see the Great Divide Mountain range, which parallels the northeast coast of Australia. Before noon, our coach brought us to the Shangri-La Hotel, where we moved into a luxury suite with a great view of the harbor and Esplanade. What a contrast from our tiny, albeit completely adequate, berths on the Coral Princess. A little rest and lunch along the hotel's marina set us up for a stroll to Rusty's Market, where they have all kinds of fruits and vegetables (see below). In the back of the market, I stopped to get a 20 minute

Japanese massage. We made sure that we returned to our hotel by 5pm in order to take in the Zumba dance next door (below). This can be described as a field full of locals or visitors in a musical exercise dance, led by the "caller". As we had been on a tear since February 3, we decided to take the rest of the day off and had dinner on our luxurious hotel balcony -- not bad, complete with Tasmanian Salmon and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as dessert. "Old people” do eventually catch on!

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Saturday, February 21, 2015 Cairns, Aboriginal Culture Park and the Rainforest

With most of our gang preparing to return to the States via Sydney, the 12 "stalwarts" and our guide headed for the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park to be "transported back to Dreamtime by myths and legends" of the indigenous people of Queensland. The sky was cloudless but it was still very hot and humid. On our way, we saw lots of Flying Foxes (also called fruit bats) in trees; they are really "creepy". We also passed the “Mother of Good Counsel" Catholic Church. Unfortunately, they had no Music Librarian openings or Judith might have stayed for a while! At the Park, we were entertained by two dance companies featuring live actors and holograms retelling the Dreamtime stories of the Tjapukai speaking people and of those from the Torres Strait Islands, 18 islands running 175 miles to near Papua

New Guinea. We heard a fascinating description of women's medicines and nutrients, all coming from the tropical forests: from bark and leaves and including poisonous food, which becomes palatable once it’s boiled and soaked in sea water for weeks! We tried our hand at throwing the boomerang (not very successfully) but demurred from throwing spears.

Our final stop was to learn all about making and playing the Didjeridoo. Simple; you just blow low and slow, vibrate your lips, move your tongue, engage your vocal cords and breathe through your nose, all at once! We also took a group photo of the hardy "survivors".

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We then boarded the Skyrail Rainforest cable car, one of the world's most beautiful rainforest experiences. Opened in 1995 with private money (the Chapman family) against all kinds of environmental regulation challenges, it runs five miles over some amazing rainforest and the Barron River (now very muddy on account of the recent rains). This prevented us from seeing the resident crocodiles. The Skyrail's 33 towers (tallest is 133') were lifted into place by Russian helicopters to avoid disturbing the rainforest. There are three stops on the Skyrail: Red Peak Station (1788' elevation), Barron Falls Station and Kuranda. We saw Metallic Starlings and striking Eucalyptus woodland with an understory of primitive-like Cycads; Caribbean Pines; Elkhorn, Staghorn and Bird's Nest Ferns; Banyan Trees and so on. Truly an amazing display of lush, complex rainforest and to think, tomorrow we'll be in the desert where it’s even hotter!

Many years ago when we were in Panama with the National Board of the Smithsonian, we learned to respect what goes on in the canopy of rainforest trees. I think the best example of this in Australia is the red bloom at the top of the Schefflera which you can’t see from the ground (see photo). Another unique “happening" is the Strangler Palm Tree, which you can see sharing the canopy with a number of other trees. We later found out that the Strangler Palm makes its own root structure, then "piggybacks" on the tree as it grows (over 100' tall!) and finally, kills the tree and survives on its original root structure. It is striking how much you see/learn/respect riding in a gondola above the rainforest and particularly, this one in Queensland. The two photos here tell another part of our story: at Red Peak Station, my back pack got stuck in my seat and Judith rescued it just before we exited the door (the gondolas do not stop); then, at our final stop, Judith is all smiles, and I'm still concerned about exiting the gondola in time. Maybe, you had to be there. There was a bus to take us back to the hotel, where we rested and started the planning for our next packing job, which required the bags to be outside our door by 5am the next morning! The Hotel Shangri-La even delivered a box breakfast for the next morning as we had such an early departure. We had dinner at Barnacle Bill’s both having Barramundi, a favorite Australian fish that is born male and turns into a female at 3-4 years of age!. On the way from our hotel, we watched the fruit bats (flying foxes) and photographed curlews. We have decided we like Cairns now that we're ready to leave.

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Sunday, February 22, 2015 Ayers Rock

Yes, we made it to our waiting bus before 5:45 am having consumed what we wanted from our breakfast box. Everything in Australia takes at least 3 hours and our flight from Cairns to Ayers Rock was no exception. The temperature was surprisingly mild at 29 C (84F); there was a slight drizzle in the air. Ayers Rock, or Uluru (its Aboriginal name), is now under Aboriginal ownership but leased back to the National Park. With a population of 800, Ayers Rock is the 5th largest "city" in the Northern Territory, Darwin being by far the largest We dropped off our bags at the Sails in the Desert Hotel, included in a complex of upgraded hostelries started in 1980. The complex architect was American, Philip Fox, working for an Australian firm; it has been highly ranked for its ecological design. Since our arrival in Australia, we have been skirting around the historical suppressive treatment of the First Australians, including the Torres Strait Islanders. They endured the appropriation of their land, innumerable massacres and the removal of their children by the Church and State to break their cultural ancestry. Nevertheless, the Aborigine culture and their spirits flourished. We had come to the heart of this culture and spirit, in the very center of Australia! The Native Title Act was signed in 1993. Uluru was world Heritage-listed for its natural significance in 1987 and for its cultural significance in 1994, after the property was deeded to the Aboriginal people by the Australian government.

Our first stop was in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), an amazing collection of 36 rock domes made up of basalt, gneiss and limestone. The present formation is 350 years old, having been molded by the original mountain range (now gone), two rivers and a lot of time. The tallest dome is 546 meters high and projects downward (below ground level) more than 6,000 meters. In Aboriginal legend, it was a man's sacred place; women were forbidden to even look at it. In traveling to this sacred place, we were introduced to the desert oak (Kasarie), the silver blue maple, spiniflex grass, desert myrtle, upside-down plant (Ikulyukulyo), Gibson's desert fuchsia, desert Joey plant (Grevilles, with yellow flowers) and desert lantern plant. We also passed

a lone gasoline station (Shell), the only one within 190 km! How's that for a monopoly! Kata Tjuta is beautiful and surprisingly, supports plant and tree growth on its surface. We took advantage of several photo op stations but the black flies were terrible! We also had the opportunity to walk the Walipa Gorge, where two kangaroos were spotted. A surprising sighting was two camels. Sixty years ago, when they were building the first railroad line to this area, dromedary (one hump) camels were imported because of their ability to go long stretches without water and to haul large loads. By the time they built the herd to 15,000, the work was completed, or at least the camels were replaced. The Bedouin caretakers were told to destroy the herd but they just turned them loose. Today, there are 750,000 camels roaming the desert! Some are being returned to Saudi Arabia but most can still be found in the Watson and Simpson deserts. Our next stop was the Maruku Arts and Culture Centre, built in 1995, which does an excellent job of describing/demonstrating the Aboriginal culture. There are four 'ancestral beings’: Kunitz, Liru, Kurpany and Mali. Tjukurpa is the basis for social, religious, legal and ethical systems of the Anangu

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people/culture. We purchased a short book of Uluru stories, which we hope to share with our grandchildren. The Aborigines are excellent "land managers" (i.e. burning the desert to prepare for more crops), as they don't believe they own the land; rather, they care for it as they use it. Their calendar covers five seasons, all revolving around the harvesting of fruits and vegetables. They live in 25-35 person groups, or committees, and believe that your face and name go with you at the time of your death, so photos are not kept after a person dies.

On the way to our hotel, we passed Uluru (348 meters tall), to which we will return at sunset and tomorrow at sunrise. On arrival at our hotel, we went shopping, as a first priority, for mosquito nets and for a quick lunch before resting up for the rest of our Aboriginal immersion! One of the signature features of Sails in the Desert is the completely white gum trees in the courtyard (photo).

It is important for all visitors to Ayers Rock to observe the color changes in the rock as the sunsets (tonight expected at 19:46). Accordingly, we were at the designated viewing site at 18:45 with mosquito nets in place, even though the pesky mosquitoes are supposed to go to bed before sunsets! We were welcomed at our site with champagne and antipasto platter, just like at Turtle Beach on the GBR! Graeme, our bus driver, even provided folding chairs, so all we had to do is sit in the desert, hold our cameras and wait, and wait. The problem was, cloud cover moved in and obscured the setting sun, so there was no color change on the sacred rock, only increasing darkness. Still, the champagne was tasty, and we took rolls of film in anticipation of what might happen

color-wise with the world’s greatest monolith. Only one photo is included here, which looks the same as all the rest. Back at the hotel, we settled for salads and a drink, with high expectations for the sun rise tomorrow.

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Monday, February 23, 2015 More Ayers Rock and Heading Home

Our departure from the hotel was set for 5:30am. For what, you say? To see what happens to the sacred rock when the sun rises at 6:45am. For this, they have a great viewing stand, if you can find your way to it in mostly pitch black. Still, our group took its place in the vigil. The result was essentially the same as

the night before regarding the light play on the rock or lack thereof. The photo here attests that the sun did come up but the same cloud, or its brother, again interfered with the light on the rock. We captured a pretty sliver of pink light from the sky, itself, but no magic on Uluru. We had to content ourselves with visiting the native lands around “the rock”. It was relatively cool at 29 C (84 F) and thanks to recent rains the desert was surprisingly green. Our path, Kuniya Walk, represented by the "python woman " and "poisonous snake man" was a little scary! On our way, we discovered umbrella bushes (Watarka), bush plum (Arngarli), spring fern (Tjanpi), honey Grevilles, the waxy myrtle

(Ngarkelya), desert bloodword (Moor-murph) and some forms of mistletoe, a parasite high up in some of the trees. Of particular interest, were the caves and watering holes, some just for animals. The paintings on the cave ceilings were done in ochre and tell the "stories" of the caves. Some caves were specifically for men, others for women (co-ed didn't exist here 20,000 years ago!). Some caves were considered "fertility" spaces. Our included photos demonstrate the magic of Uluru (limestone) and its undulations gouges and ravines, nearly all with their own Dreamtime stories. Millions of

years ago, the rock was turned on its side, resulting in vertical striations. After a fabulous walk, my favorite of the entire trip, amongst all this magic and history, we traveled by bus around Uluru, whose circumference measures 9.6 km. One end looks like a dolphin (photo); the opposite end is where people climb to the top

(photo, lower right), which can take 3 to 31/2 hours up and down, with the record of less than 30 minutes (sounds like our Challenge kayak record around Blueberry Island!). Because of wind, rain, etc., the climb is mostly closed; in fact, it's only been open 75 days out of the last two years, which is the way the Aborigine owners want it on account of its sacred nature but not by Park officials who promote the

attraction to climbers. On the way back to the hotel, our guide Graeme regaled us with stories: he had guided William and Kate on their last trip to Australia and expects to guide the Dalai Lama when he visits in June. The Australian coat of arms includes the kangaroo and the emu, neither of which can traverse backward, symbolic of a new nation moving only forward! Finally, we were back to Sails in the Desert, ready for breakfast. We packed and were bussed to the Ayers Rock Airport. Another three hour flight and we were in Sydney airport, where we stayed for the night at Rydges Hotel, adjacent to the International terminal. The Rydges is "trendy" but not very comfortable. However, Judith’s ring was delivered and ready when we arrived at the desk.

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Tuesday, February 24, 2015: On the Way Home!

We bid farewell to our fellow travelers and "carted" our luggage to ANZ; did all the customs/security/Tax Return Scheme stuff and then waited. The plane to take us to Auckland had been hit by lightning and needed repair! Oh well! While Sydney may not be the world's largest and busiest airport, I have never seen a busier, more crowded one than we experienced in this instance. Finally, we were off to Auckland, where this great odyssey started, and then on to Los Angeles, and on to Newark, some twenty hours later. We were met by our son, Kevin and spent the rest of the night in Cranford with him and Nicholas. As always, it was great to be almost home! Our favorite travel writer, Bill Bryson, says in “In a Sunburned Country” that:

Australia is mostly empty and a long way away. Its population is small and its role in the world consequently peripheral. It doesn’t have coups, disagreeable despots, grow coca in provocative quantities, or throw its weight around in a brash, unseemly manner. It is stable and peaceful and good. It doesn’t need watching, and so we don’t. But I tell you this: the loss is entirely ours.

You see, Australia is an interesting place. And that really is all I’m saying. P. 304

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INSIGHTS: Beyond personal impressions already shared in the preceding pages.

It has been said that: "Yesterday is history; tomorrow is a mystery but today is a gift. That's why they call it the present!

Yes, this "Natural Wonders of Australia and New Zealand” journey has been a gift: to see such natural wonders in

two great countries, both "down under". Australia is the world's sixth largest country (roughly the size of continental U.S) and the world's largest island. It is the only island that is also a continent, and the only continent that is also a country. It was the first continent conquered from the sea, and the last. It is the only nation that began as a prison. Australia is the driest, flattest, hottest, most desiccated, infertile and climatically aggressive of all the inhabited continents (only Antarctica is more hostile to life). Eighty percent of all the plant and animal species that live in Australia exist nowhere else. Bill Bryson is absolutely correct: "There is no place in the world like it!" While we traveled to the very center of Australia, we visited only two of the six states -- New South Wales and Queensland -- and one territory, the Northern Territory. Australia is often referred to as the "Lucky Country", and this accolade certainly applies when it comes to natural attractions. In fact, Australia has more World Heritage- listed natural landscapes than any other country, with 15 appearing on Unesco's list. We visited two Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and the Great Barrier Reef. In addition, The Sydney Opera House is a World Heritage-listed building. On the other hand, New Zealand is an absolute jewel in the South Pacific, comprising large high islands, long isolated from the rest of the world and surrounded by vast stretches of ocean. Once covered in primeval forest, it is a land rich in bio-diversity, and its geography is equally varied and stunning. The country stretches more than 1,000 miles from the sandy sub-tropical peninsula at the northern tip to the glacier-carved fjords of the south. In between lie mighty snow-covered peaks, smoking volcanoes, vast lakes, dense forests and fertile grasslands. Beaches, bays and coves punctuate a convoluted 9,400 mile coastline. Lying on the boundary of the Australian and Pacific plates, New Zealand is geologically defined by the collision of these giant slabs of the Earth's crust. It is a highly active region of earthquakes, volcanoes and geothermal activity, part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. Isolated from the rest of the world for 80 million years, New Zealand developed unique flora and fauna, which it jealously guards today. Primitive forests flourished as flightless birds evolved free of warm-blooded predators, for the country had no land mammals except for two rare species of bats. And yes, we did visit one of New Zealand's World Heritage-listed sites, the world-renowned Milford Sound. It's not a matter of which country, or which specific venue we liked the most; we engaged in each "natural wonder" experience and loved it all! Australia has a bigger population at 22 million, nearly 5 times that of New Zealand's 4.4 million. Australia has a bigger land mass at 2.9 million square acres, 28 times that of New Zealand (New Zealand is the size of Colorado, or 10% larger than the UK). They share pavlova as their "national dessert". Arguably, New Zealand did a better job of sharing/confiscating land with the Maori, as compared to Australia's contentious relationship (until very recently) with the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people. While they were both "discovered” by Europeans at roughly the same time, New Zealand appears to be more “independent". They certainly gained their independence from the monarchy sooner. But then, you can't leave out the two country's competitive nature on athletic fields or in the water; we loved the press and TV coverage of cricket, rugby, sailing, etc. And they sure don't mind beating England either! It also needs to be recorded that we traveled with a terrific group of Smithsonian Journeys and National Trust for Historic Preservation members who greatly enhanced our experience. Some were with us through both pre- and post-excursions; all cared deeply about our exploration. A standout was Carl Bentley, our Tour Director, who left no stone unturned to assure our comfort and enjoyment. I don't know whether we will ever be fortunate enough to return but if we do, the Blue Mountains and Fraser Island in Australia and the Bay of Islands and Christchurch in New Zealand head my to-do list. Judith wants to go to Tasmania. At least, we can hope that our children and grandchildren (one already has) will indulge this great “down under" experience. This journal, compiled and written by me, edited by Judith and photographed by both of us, represents only a small introduction to what they have in store. Like it did for us, a visit to New Zealand and/or Australia will exceed all expectations!

Charles H. Moore