namibia chapter preview

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Quad Biking in Hartmann Valley

Sundowners: a safari tradition On the wing over the Skeleton Coast The King of Beasts - before breakfast!


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NamibiaNAMIBIA

This is a land of sunshine, big skies, extraordinary landscapes and unusual

people. It has horizons that never end, peculiar flat-topped hills rising out of a

parched desert, and places where the ground simply disappears without warning

into immense chasms.

Namibia is vast even in African terms, and with one of the worlds lowest

population densities, has as much space as you could want. Space equals distance

and distance requires time - time to explore some of the greatest natural wonders

in the world.

S A N D D U N E S 1 0 0 0 F E E T H I G H

In the southern part of the Namib Desert, which stretches along Namibias

entire coastline, are the most astonishing sand dunes. Awesomely enormous at

almost 1,000 ft high, and constantly changing color from glowing orange to

deep purple, they will entice you to sink your feet into their warm sands. Their

extreme remoteness adds to the allure, and once there you should stay in one of

the desert lodges to experience a dazzling Southern Hemisphere night sky.

H A L L U C I N A T I N G H E A T

In northern Namibia lies Etosha National Park, notable for its unusual

terrain and diversity of wildlife. If you are ever going to witness a mirage it will

be here, as the vast glimmering salt pans induce a hazy hallucinatory state. Herds

of oryx, well-adjusted to heat and drought, wander across the desolate pans, while

other animals seek out a living from the surrounding sparse grasslands.

In times of rain this hostile saline desert metamorphoses into a rich organic

lagoon full of flamingos, pelicans and myriad water birds. The plains burst with

little yellow flowers and grazing animals give birth, timing the growth of their

young to take advantage of this briefly abundant supply of water.

R E S P E C T T H E R O A D

You had better get used to heat and dust when travelling in Namibia,

because apart from two main highways the country is serviced by a vast network

of gravel roads. A good reason to allow a local guide to handle your transport is

because most road fatalities are tourists in hire cars, going too fast on the dirt roads.

Fly-in safaris are the best way to get around this huge country and I learned this

lesson when escorting my first group to Namibia in 1993. We had a 21-day itinerary

covering 2,100 miles by road-and after that experience, my advice is, Take to the

wing.

V I C T O R I A N D R E S S I N 1 0 0 F

It is important to know a little of Namibias history in order to understand

the country. Placid, nomadic San Bushmen - the original inhabitants - were

displaced by stronger tribes, some of whom are noticeable today by their distinctive

style of dress. Herero women from the central north are unmistakable in long ankle

to neck Victorian dresses - a legacy from missionaries - even though it is 100f in

the shade. In total contrast are the beautiful Himba from the northwest, who cover

their scantily clad flesh and entwine their dreadlocks with rich ochre mud.

Like many African countries, Namibia was fought over many times and

Germany gained control in 1890. Britain pressured South Africa to invade in 1914

and Namibia came under South African administration until its independence in

1990. These influences explain the mixed traditions of this country, but it is for its

natural wonders that most people pay a visit.


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The Caprivi StripT H E C A P R I V I S T R I P - a p l a c e w o r t h f i g h t i n g f o r

298

The Caprivi is a strange strip of land in the far north east corner of Namibia

that is the meeting place of four other Southern African countries: Angola, Botswana,

Zambia and Zimbabwe. These bizarre borders are a legacy of colonialism, which

split tribal areas with little or no regard for traditional boundaries. It is no wonder

that there have been a few cross-border skirmishes, especially as the Caprivi strip

has changed hands a number of times, including being administered by Germany,

Southern Rhodesia, South West African Protectorate, South Africa and finally an

independent Namibia.

A T R U L Y A F R I C A N S C E N E

This is Namibias only area of high rainfall and summer floodwaters spill

over the banks of its border rivers onto wide floodplains, while the central area

stays quite dry. From November to February, humidity is high and biting insects

are prolific, but the rest of the year is very pleasant.

Forests rise high with leadwood and teak trees and the tall sausage tree

dangles its huge fruit like giant salamis hanging on a thread. Ghostly gray baobabs

contrast with colorful birds of which the pink and purple carmine bee-eater is

perhaps the prettiest, while the African fish eagle is undoubtedly the grandest.

Add a whole range of animals on land and in water and a truly African scene awaits

you here in the Caprivi.One of Africas most interesting trees, baobabs live for hundreds of years.

Grandest of eagles: the African fish eagle


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Hunters Come in Many Forms

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A solitary malachite kingfisher is seldom seen; they usually congregate in groups or pairs. In cold blood: crocodiles lack the ability to self-regulate their own body temperature.

Tiger bream and many other species of sh tempt the avid angler. Look for them in the Chobe and Kasai Rivers.

H U N T E R S C O M E I N M A N Y F O R M S


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An elephant pile-up? Its a common sight on the Chobe River.


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This lodge lies at the meeting place of

two mighty African rivers: the Chobe

and Zambezi, and four countries:

Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe and

Botswana. This is the only place in the

world where four countries meet.

Two massive baobab trees dominate

the main complex, which has a

swimming pool, lounge, bar and dining

area serving world class cuisine.

Eight en-suite wood and thatch chalets

have private decks and superb views of

fast-flowing rapids. Privacy and relax-

ation are paramount at Impalila.

LOCATION: Northeastern Namibia,

43 miles from Zimbabwe/Zambias

Victoria Falls.

Member of Classic Safari Camps of Africa

This lodge lies on Namibias remote

Kwando River - a permanent water

source nourishing delicate ecosystems

and sustaining varied big game and

birdlife. You can venture out in a

vehicle, a boat or by foot and even

have a romantic, candlelit bush dinner

in the wilderness.

With just six personally attended

suites, each complete with its own

viewing deck and private plunge pool,

your privacy and comfort are assured.

The cool, restful interior is a respite in

which to recharge your senses and store

the days precious safari memories.

LOCATION: On the Kwando River

of northeastern Namibia, near Victoria

Falls.

Member of Classic Safari Camps of Africa

S U S U W E I S L A N D L O D G E

The Caprivi Strip

I M P A L I L A I S L A N D L O D G E

The Caprivi Strip

Boat g ame vie wing Bird-watching Canoeing with poler Fishing Game walks

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Game drives Game walks Boating Bush meals Nature walks Plunge pools


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The Ovambo name Etosha means huge white area or place of dry water,

depending on whom you ask. Either way it aptly describes the vast, shallow pan

that is dry and cracked for most of the year.

It used to be a lake the size of Holland, but now shimmers a silvery bright

white from salt across its entire surface. Hazy mirages distort your eyesight and

make you see all sorts of things that are not really there.

P I N K M I S T O F A M I L L I O N F L A M I N G O S

This inhospitable pan is 75 miles long and 45 miles at its widest. Seemingly

inert, it is brought to life with rains, that may or may not come between January

and March. Up to three feet of water turns the parched surface into a slushy, algae-

rich soup attracting thousands of birds - which is a sight to behold. The pink mist

shifting slowly across the surface is in fact up to a million flamingos, for whom this

is an important breeding ground.

At this time the surrounding woodland savannah and scrubland, which is

normally sparsely vegetated, bursts with little yellow blooms and rich grasses.

Animals abound in great numbers and herds of 50 elephants are common. They

often stroll right down the middle of the road and I was once surrounded on all

sides by wrinkly gray skin while their curious trunks explored every nook and

cranny of the vehicle. Knowing they could easily upturn our vehicle, I hardly dared

breathe until the last elephant had passed.

T H E L I O N A N D T H E U N I C O R N

The desert dwelling oryx, upon which the mythical unicorn must surely be

based, will certainly be seen here along with the impressive curly horned kudu.

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Etosha National ParkE T O S H A N A T I O N A L P A R K

In the dry season, Etoshas waterholes shrink to puddles, making for concentrated wildlife viewing.


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I have often sighted lions and hyenas, and love the little silver-backed jackals that

trot around, almost oblivious of you. The park also contains endangered black

rhino and unusual species like black-faced impala and the tiny Damara dik dik.

Etosha has dozens of waterholes, some natural, others artificially fed from

boreholes. During the dry season game viewing at waterholes is very rewarding

as a veritable Noahs Arc of different species gather to await their turn, with

elephants taking the lions share!

Serious photographers may find Etosha frustrating as no off-road driving is

permitted, but in dry dusty November, all you need to do is park at a waterhole

and be ready as the animals take turns to parade in front of your camera.

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Zebra are among the most water-dependent of the plains game.

Elephants actually dust themselves to remove ticks.


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Fighting between adult male oryx can be intense when water - and females - are in short supply.


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The Long and the Short of It . . .

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The stare of a Cape eagle owl can be quite disconcerting.The red-billed hornbill is omnivorous, sometimes tackling prey as large as a small rodent.

T H E L O N G A N D T H E S H O R T O F I T . . .


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Taking it to the Limits

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Author vs. rhino; while short-sighted, rhinos have a good sense of smell; dont try this at home!

In order to attract mates, a springbok male antelope must win and hold a territory.

T A K I N G I T T O T H E L I M I T S


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These lodges border Etosha National

Park, Namibias premier wildlife park.

Day game drives take you through the

unique terrain of Etosha, full of lion,

elephant, cheetah, oryx, springbok and

many other photogenic species.

Night drives and walks take place on

the private reserve where the lodge is

situated. You can even track rhino in

this reserve, as both the large white

rhino and smaller, short-tempered

black rhino are found here - a rare treat

indeed.

The lodge has ten comfortable chalets

and a swimming pool. Meals are served

either in the thatched dining area with

a view over the camps waterhole, or on

the dining deck under the stars.

LOCATION: See location at right.

Ongava Tented Camp offers a

wonderful bush experience in a small,

classic, traditional tented camp. There

are just six East African-styled walk-

in tents with en-suite bathrooms. All

meals are enjoyed in the thatched

dining area overlooking a well-

frequented floodlit waterhole. You can

experience excellent game viewing

from the veranda or the pool.

This lodge is situated in a different

sector of the reserve to Ongava Lodge,

but offers similar game drives and

walks.

LOCATION: In the large Ongava

Game Reserve, bordering Etosha

National park in northwest Namibia.

O N G A V A L O D G E & L I T T L E O N G A V A

Outside Etosha National Park

O N G A V A T E N T E D C A M P

Outside Etosha National Park

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Day & night game drives Game walks Swimming pool Bird-watching Viewing hide Day & night game drives Game walks Swimming pool Bird-watching Viewing hide


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Only the hardiest people live in this unforgiving land, but those that do are

unlike any other tribe in Africa. Clad only in goatskins, the Himba are probably

the most beautiful people in Sub-Saharan Africa, with a tall proud bearing and

innate elegance. They protect and adorn their bodies and hair with rich ochre

mud and jewelry fashioned from leather, metal and shells. The red earth of

Africa mixed with animal fat glows on their skin like molten chocolate. You will

only get to meet the Himba people if you travel to the remote northwest area of

Namibia, which is a great distance from any town or city.

R O C K Y M O U N T A I N S R I S E F R O M T H E D E S E R T

Namibia is a land of great disparity and this area once again demonstrates

those contrasts with stark plains, petrified forests and ancient valleys leading to the

rocky outcrops and soaring peaks of the Brandberg Massive Mountains. You will

experience a vastness that is almost overwhelming.

T H E W H I T E L A D Y I S A M A N !

The Twyfelfontein rock formations are famous for containing the most

significant Stone Age rock art in Namibia. The famous White Lady who resides

on a wall here has caused a bit of a stir as researchers have decided that she is

actually a he.

Nearby, volcanic dolorite columns of rock glow in the sun like copper organ

pipes while the Burnt Mountain smoulders with deep heat colors of purple and

red. Further south, the brooding Brandberg Mountains rise 6,500 ft above sea level

to dominate the horizon.

Desert elephants roam around the more vegetated areas and you are most

likely to spot these rare pachyderms along the dry riverbeds. The elephants trunks

can often be seen pointing skywards to reach the very last leaf on a tree, as fodder is

scarce in this arid place. Black rhino plus a number of antelopes and even cheetah

and lion are also occasionally seen. You will certainly come across Damara goat

herders as they roam in search of food for their stock.

D A M A R A L A N D E N I G M A

All of the arid locations discussed in this region of Africa - which include

Sossusvlei and the Skeleton Coast as well as Damaraland - have the ability to

invoke a great inner peace. Life suddenly feels effortless as your perspective

changes and you succumb to the beauty of nature. Author Ed Morris, on safari

with me in 1993, was so moved by this place, that while he sat on a rock one night,

his next book began to form in his mind. Evolution to Sainthood was written and

published with a bit of help from the Damaraland enigma.

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Rugged, desolate, glorious: Damaraland awes and impresses with its starkly beautiful, panoramic landscape.DamaralandD A M A R A L A N D - A P l a c e t o F e e d Y o u r S o u l


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Damaralands endless vistas dwarf the creatures that roam them - its stark plains, ancient valleys and soaring peaks seem to go on forever.


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Mountain zebra are ever-elusive; these shy creatures form a living calligraphy in the early evening light.

Endangered desert elephant have developed a knack for locating pockets of verdant forage in this harsh locale.

Though undenyably ancient, bushman rock art is both aesthetic . . . and mysterious. There must be an elephant around here somewhere . . .


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Diminutive Damaraland dik-dik seem impossibly fragile for such a harsh environment, yet they have adapted to this arid land by depending almost solely on vegetation for moisture.


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Ever-vigilant for predators, springbok prefer short-grass savannahs to lusher areas of tall grass.


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Damaraland Camp is in the arid Huab

River Valley with endless vistas across

stark plains, ancient valleys and the

soaring Brandberg Mountains.

This comfortable and friendly tented

camp offers walks and drives in one of

the best wilderness areas in Namibia.

Special features are its unique natural

rock swimming pool and exceptional

stargazing into crystal clear night

skies.

Although wildlife is not concentrated,

the rare desert elephant roams here

as well as oryx, springbok, ostrich

and other hardy desert animals. Rare

succulent plants somehow manage

to eke out an existence in this harsh

countryside.

LOCATION: In the private Torra

Wildlife Conservancy, 55 miles inland

from the Skeleton Coast.

D A M A R A L A N D C A M P

Da ma ral an d

Nat ure wal ks Game drives Swimming pool Bird watching Mountain biking

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P A L M W A G R H I N O C A M P

Da ma ra lan d

Palmweg Rhino Camp is run in

conjunction with the Save the Rhino

Trust in Northern Damaraland. It

offers an amazing insight into the

ecology and conservation of this area,

while also contributing to the Trust,

the rhino conservation operations and

the sustainability of the region.

A maximum of sixteen guests can be

accommodated and will enjoy viewing

Hartmanns mountain zebra, giraffe,

gemsbok, springbok, ostrich, elephant,

lions, cheetah, leopard, spotted and

brown hyena and black rhino.

The camp has 8 large Meru tents

with en-suite facilities including

bucket showers, hot water on call and

flush toilets.

LOCATION: In the 1 million acre

Palmwag Reserve between Etosha and

Skeleton Coast.

Nat ure walk s Day & nvight game drives Black rhino tracking Bird watching


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If you want to experience the Himba people, plan to include a visit to

remote Hartmann Valley on your Namibia safari. An isolated oasis in the midst

of arid vastness, this surprising pocket of green is the gift of the Kunene River,

which provides the only permanent source of water for a great distance, a magnet

for these nomadic herders and their families.

A N O M A D I C & S I M P L E L I F E S T Y L E

The tribal Himba first came to Hartmann Valley in the 16th century, traveling

south out of Angola in search of new grazing lands for their idea of wealth: cattle,

sheep and goats. The Himba lifestyle has changed little from the past, making for

a fascinating experience of a vanishing way of life.

You will want to spend time with the Himba, whose distinctive manner

of dress and adornments are both exotic - and practical. Ochre earth mixed with

butterfat dresses their skin and hair, providing simple but effective protection

from the intense sunlight of this region. As well as appearnace, all Himba activities

revolve around their precious livestock - diet, ornamentation, even courtship and

social standing.

Himba handcrafts are beautifully organic, making for unique keepsakes

of this unforgettable experience. On my last visit, I purchased an ostrich shell

necklace for my ten-year-old granddaughter, who liked it so much that she has not

taken it off since I gave it to her.

Hartmann ValleyH A R T M A N N V A L L E Y

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One way in: the rst astonishing view of Hartmann Valley greenery amidst its sere surroundings is a spectacular one.


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M O R E F U N T H A N B U M P E R C A R S

Learning about tribal culture isnt the only attraction that draws the intrepid

traveller to Hartmanns. The expansive landscape invites exploration by vehicle

and by foot, while the cool blue of the river promises respite from the heat of the

day. Boating excursions are a terrifc way to cool off, while the towering dunes of

Hartmann Valley cry out to be explored.

And what could be more exciting and fun than exploring by quad bike? Your

guide will accompany you, as much to help dig you out of that last wheelie you

attempted, as to get you back to camp! I felt like a kid the day I tried it. From the

top of a dune, I rang up an old friend via satellite phone to share the fun. In the

course of the conversation, I commented that the last time I had such a good time

was in a bumper car when I was a kid.

A N U N E X P L A I N E D M Y S T E R Y

You will also discover an eerie mystery in this river valley: fairy circles. These

circular, slightly concave depressions are surrounded by sparse grasses, yet devoid

of vegetation.

Even if a seed inside this circle sprouts after a rainfall, it will not survive for very

long. A great deal of scientific research hs been done over the years to explain

this unusual phenomena, but the cause is as yet unknown.

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Lisa Rigge, ready for quad biking adventure. Oh, for the simple life! Nomadic Himba keep things plain and portable. Older women are greatly respected in the Himba culture.


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The Himba benet from tourism by selling their handcrafts. The workmanship is beautiful, the designs simple and elegant.

No one knows what causes fairy circles, yet they appear throughout this area.

Young Himba women have developed adornment into an art form.

Shades of the Desert . . .S H A D E S O F T H E D E S E R T . . .


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Serra Cafema Camp, located along the

Kunene River in the extreme north-

west of Namibia, has to be the most

remote camp in Southern Africa. For

those who appreciate wild places, the

journey here is one of the most exciting

in Africa, culminating in a breathtaking

descent to the camp.

It is a small 12-bed camp which shares

the region with the Himba people - one

of Africas last nomadic tribes.

The Kunene River is the only source

of water in this area and creates a lush

oasis surrounded by rugged mountains

and sand dunes. Activities are many

and include quad biking on some of

the largest sand dunes in the world.

LOCATION: Far northwest

Namibia.

S E R R A C A F E M A C A M P

Ha rt ma nn Va ll ey

Game drives Boats Bird watching Swimming pool Game walks Quad bikesHartmann Valleys rocky terrain offers endless opportunities for striking photos.


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Out of the flat scrubland rises a gigantic 600-foot orange rock with sheer

sides and a flat top. This natural edifice, glowing gold in late afternoon sun, is the

astonishing Waterberg Plateau.

The Waterberg is a lost Eden with wild game roaming the lush tableland,

unable to escape down the steep sides (or through the fence guarding the one

manageable slope). It is as though time has stood still atop this plateau and,

although you may see only a few antelopes on a game drive, you just know a

leopard is looking down on you from a nearby tree.

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Waterberg PlateauParkW A T E R B E R G P L A T E A U P A R K

Waterbergs fastest felines, cheetahs enjoy easy hunting on the plateau. Stan Sutn relaxes, seemingly unaware of the lawn mower nearby.


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Left homeless as a cub, this beautiful leopard was rescued by Africats; he now enjoys posing for photographers (in exchange for a nice chunk of antelope, naturally).


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320Cheetahs awaiting breakfast at Okonjima Camp gather for feeding to the delight of guests.


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321What a handsome couple! (The rest of his harem is just outside the frame of the photo, however. Lions do not mate for life.)


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Caraals purr when content, but growl, hiss or spit when threatened.

Porcupines are very shy; these nocturnal creatures are best seen during night game drives. Weight gain is the biggest hazard to safari life. Food is always excellent . . . and distressingly abundant.


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Okonjima lies nestled in the beauty of

the Omboroko Mountains and is home

of The Africat Foundation - famous for

research and rehabilitation of cheetahs

and leopards, who roam in the reserve.

At Okonjima you can get closer to these

beautiful creatures than you have ever

done before. Activities include the

very popular Cheetah Tracking Trail

where you participate in radio-tracking

the rehabilitated cheetahs on foot. You

can also visit the Cheetah Project

where youll get first-hand experience

of Africats work.

Leopard Viewing is from the safety

of a hide or game-viewing vehicle

and radio-collars also assist in tracking

them. There are guided and self-guided

walking trails and The Bushman Trail

lets you experience a day in the life

of the original hunter-gatherers of the

Kalahari.

Birding on foot or from a spacious

viewing hide allows you to spot some

of the 300 indigenous species in the

area. Night game watching brings to

light porcupines and other nocturnal

creatures.

Accommodation is in a choice of two

very different camps: Main Camp was

the original family farmhouse and has

ten comfortable double rooms and a

rustic dining area, all overlooking the

lush original garden and open fire where

everybody gathers in the evening.

The new Luxury Bush Camp has

eight chalets in a unique combination

of earthy ochre, clay walls and khaki-

green canvas, under a thatched roof.

Watch the well-frequented waterhole

or sit at your chalet and encounter avian

visitors to your own personal birdbath.

L O C A T I O N : 2 1/2 hours drive

north of Windhoek, in the Waterberg

Plateau region of Namibia.

O K O N J I M A C A M P - h o m e o f t h e A f r i c a t F o u n d a t i o n

Waterberg Plateau

Day & night gam e dri ves Bird watching Swimming pool Viewing hide Nature walks Educational center

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The Skeleton Coast seems to go on forever. This desolate stretch of coastline in northern Namibia is exquisitely beautiful, but can be deadly to ships.

Skeleton CoastS K E L E T O N C O A S T

The Skeleton Coast is awash with the ghosts of ships and sailors who came

to grief in the unforgiving Atlantic Ocean of Namibias northwest. This is one of

the most remote and wild coastlines in the world. Maritime remains litter the foggy

coastline and with each shipwreck engulfed in sand goes a gripping story of man

against nature. Nature usually wins!

2 6 - D A Y O R D E A L I N S H I P W R E C K R E S C U E

One tale of woe, wonder and perseverance is about the Dunedin Star that ran

aground in 1942 with 21 passengers and 85 crew. The rescue tug ended up on the

beach. A bomber supply airplane dispatched from Cape Town landed and promptly

got stuck in the sand. The second airplane wisely stayed in the air and dropped

food and water for the ever-increasing number of stranded people. The overland

operation got stuck just two miles from the group but eventually everybody was

conveyed south, where some were airlifted out and others continued overland to

Windhoek. They arrived 26 days after their ordeal began!

African stories such as these have always traditionally been passed down

through the generations by word of mouth; I have great memories of sitting around

evening campfires, enthralled by the ancient wisdom of a tribal chief. I guess this

could be called bush television, with visual images fueled by the flickering fire,

limited only by your imagination.

Today, the only way to reach this truly remote wilderness is to fly in on a

light aircraft, which is an adventure all of its own. The haunting beauty of sweeping

dunes, golden-walled canyons and great mountain ranges will become forever

etched in your memory.


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One of the unlucky ones: the rusting remains of this victim of an Atlantic Ocean storm will be just a memory in a few years.

The only seal indigenous to Southern Africa, Cape fur seals l ive in large colonies. Access to the Skeleton Coast is strictly via air; roads are nonexistent. The views are awesome.


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Welwitsia plant, one of Earths oldest inhabitants.

S K E L E T O N C O A S T C A M P

Sk e le to n Co as t

S A N D B O A R D I N G E L E P H A N T S

You may think that animals could not survive here but you would be wrong.

The famous desert elephants have become so adapted that they have been filmed

sliding down sand dunes like a snow-boarder. Desert-dwelling oryx are completely

at home here and giraffe, brown hyena, springbok, ostirch, rare black rhino and

even lion are found inland where riverine bush supports the herbivores and fresh

water can usually be found.

The singular ecosystem is dependent on the cold sea breeze from the

Antarctic Benguela current, which flows north up Namibias lengthy coastline. For

much of the year, but expecially in winter, the coast is shrouded in mist with a

strong westerly breeze taking the fog far inland. This moisture gives life to strange

desert plants like the unique living fossil plant welwitsia (below).

E X P E R I E N C E F E A R L E S S S O L I T U D E

By mid-morning the mist has cleared and you are witness to the timeless

beauty that only the Skeleton Coast can offer. Take advantage of the isolation to

attune yourself to ocean echoes and desert silence. There are few places on earth

in which to experience such fearless solitude, so get attuned with nature like never

before. Perhaps in Namibia you will meet yourself for the first time.

Skeleton Coast Camp and its 12 guests

have exclusive use of 600,000 acres

of one of our planets most desolate,

but beautiful places. The routine is

quite different from other camps; after

breakfast guests head out for the whole

day with a picnic lunch, for an ultimate

desert experience.

Accommodation is in 7 comfortable

safari tents with large en-suite

bathrooms. Meals are often taken

outside under an ancient leadwood

tree. This camp is for the adventurous

traveler who wants a taste of one of

the last truly wild and remote places

on Earth.

LOCATION: in the Skeleton Coast

Park, far north-west Namibia.

Day & night gam e dri ves Picnic lunches Nature walks Scenic flights

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Skeleton Coast Safaris has been

running since 1977 - over twenty-five

years - and is the original specialist

tour operator in the Skeleton Coast

area. There is quite simply no betterguide than one of the Schoeman

family, who for two generations have

been specializing in this remote and

unique place where many fear to tread.

The Schoeman name is well known as

author of numerous books on Namibia,

superb photographs seen worldwide

and of course guiding the intrepid

traveler into their favored piece of

pristine Namibian wilderness.

This extraordinary 4-day fly-and-

drive safari reveals the magnificent

untouched beauty of the Skeleton

Coast Park, Namib-Naukluft Park,

Damaraland and Kaokoland of

northwest Namibia. These are some

of the remotest and least visited (but

most fascinating) areas of Southern

Africa.

Cessna 210 aircraft posing as specialized

safari vehicles are synergistically used

with custom-built classic Landrovers

strategically parked at interesting and

fascinating spots. The airplane gives

you a birds-eye view of the spectacular

sites before sweeping down to get a

closer look. These unusual excursionsreveal diverse geological rock

formations, dunes and shipwrecks,

desert dwelling animals and interesting

ecological aspects of the desert.

You will be exclusively accommodated

in three fully equipped privately

owned, tented camps that comfortably

serve all your needs.

Each safari is hosted by a member

of the Schoeman family, who fulfills

the role of guide, pilot, driver and

host. This unique personal touch,

combined with the Schoemans

lifetime experience and passion for

this spectacular part of the world, has

gained them international recognition.

LOCATION: A fly-and-drive desert

safari in remote northwest Namibia.

S K E L E T O N C O A S T S A F A R I S

A uni qu e de se rt fl y- in ex per ie nce wi th th e Sc ho em ans

Sce nic dri ves Scenic flights Nature walks Visits to tribal village

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Swakopmund & WalvisBayS W A K O P M U N D & W A L V I S B A Y C O A S T L I N EYou do not expect to find a German town, complete with steeply pitched

roofs to let the snow slide off, in the heart of Africa, but this is exactly what

Swakopmund is. Known as Little Bavaria, for its stunning architecture, this

quaint place is the holiday resort town for Namibians and a base for adventuretrips and scenic flights along the coast and over the desert.

The ocean gives respite from inland heat with a sea breeze and coastal

fog, but the desert is not far away and has to be crossed to get from Windhoek to

Swakopmund - Namibias only two cities (which are tiny in American terms). But

the road is good and it only takes a little over three hours to drive. When I first

made this journey, in five hours I only saw three cars, one truck, a motorcyclist . . .

and a wagon pulled by donkey (I did stop to take pictures!).

S M E L L Y S E A L S A N D S L I M Y P L A N K T O N

It is worth driving north from Swakopmund on the straight sandswept

coastal road to see the spectacle of 100,000 Cape Fur Seals at Cape Cross Seal

Colony. Although fascinating to watch, I was finally overwhelmed by their guano-like smell and headed south (as further north leads only to the hostile and barren

Skeleton Coast).

South of Swakopmund, on the way to Walvis (Whale) Bay, are some huge

orange sand dunes where dune boarding and quad biking are favorite sports.

Personally, I prefer to watch the flamingos in the lagoon just south of town. While

the birds sift slimy plankton, I enjoy delicious giant garlic prawns from my superb

vantage point in the Raft Restaurant, high up on stilts, overlooking the lagoon.

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Beautiful downtown Swakopmund, the jumping-off point for endless adventure in Namibia. Cape fur seal, wearing eau de guano.


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329

Walvis Bay plays host to thousands of bright pink amingos, who get their distinctive coloring, suprisingly enough, from their dietary choices: crustaceans and plankton.


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Namib NaukluftParkN A M I B N A U K L U F T P A R K

S O S S U S V L E I - T H E L A N D O F G I A N T G L O W I N G D U N E S

Sossusvleis rich ochre sea of sand dunes is one of the most wondrous sights

in the world. Their feminine curves rise tantalizingly to over 1,000 ft (300 ft more

than their nearest rivals in Arabia), and just beg to be climbed barefoot. Dwarfed

by the sheer size and immensity of the dunes, my footprints look like insect trails,

and each step forward forms mini sand-slides.

A Z I L L I O N F R A G M E N T S O F G A R N E T S

Geologists say that this supreme desert, covering most of the Namib Naukluft

National Park, could be the oldest in the world. The older the dune, the brighter

the color from slow iron oxidization and a zillion minute fragments of garnets. The

spectacular colors vary from burnt orange through red to deepest mauve, creating an

earthy kaleidoscope of texture and hue.

In the Nama language, Namib means vast, and the Namib Naukluft Park

lives up to this reputation. It extends for about 300 miles along Namibias coast and

deep inland. Contrary to appearances, an amazing variety of wildlife has adapted to

live in this inhospitable place. There are lizards who only put two feet down at a

time and a beetle who leans forward to make droplets of dew run down grooves in

its body to its mouth. Apart from infrequent rains, these creatures rely on a regular

sea mist that rolls far inland.

I M M E A S U R A B L E S O L I T U D E

Visiting this remote region takes some perseverance, as it is almost 200 miles

from any main highway, so a fly-in safari is a good option. The trip is worth it as

the solitude is immeasurable, and your place in the great scheme of life takes on a

new perspective.

This desert gives you the perfect opportunity to become one with nature.

It has been my lifelong experience that the closer you are to the natural world,

the closer you are to your God. I guarantee you will find some inner peace in this

inspiring place.

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331

A hot-air balloon safari can enhance your appreciation of Namib Naukluft Park. Only from this height can one truly appreciate the uniqueness of this topography.


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332Inspiration is everywhere; Lisa Rigge nds potential in random patterns of rock and shadow.


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333Highest in the world, Namibias dunes rise dramatically over 1,000 feet above the surrounding plains. Buildings, vehicles, humans - here, all are dwarfed by nature.


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Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp is situatedclose to the highest sand dunes in the

world. The spectacle of changing

colors and the lonely oryx silhouetted

against red dunes is one that draws

photographers from around the world.

The camp is near the top of a mountain

and the nine guest rooms are built of

brick, rock, timber and thatch, each

with private plunge pool. The main

living area is under thatch with an

outdoor deck for dinner under the

stars.

Highlights include early morning gamedrives to the Sossusvlei dunes and

optional ballooning over the desert.

LOCATION: On a private reserve

in the Namib Desert, in south-west

Namibia.

S O S S U S V L E I W I L D E R N E S S C A M P

So ss us vl ei

Hot Air bal loon ing Day & night game drives Swimming pool Nature walks

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Sossusvleis sinuous dunes are so immense that full-grown trees seem tiny punctuation marks.


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Kulala Desert Lodge and Little Kulalaoffer heart-stopping desert scenery of

the famous red dunes of Sossusvlei.

Both lodges have thatched & canvas

chalets or Kulalas (chalets) with en-

suite bathrooms and showers set on

wooden platforms to provide maximum

airflow. Each room has a private rooftop

stargazing platform for incredible nights

watching shooting stars and satellites

track across the Milky Way.

On the edge of the oldest desert in the

world, wildlife is sparse but fascinating

in its struggle to survive the harshconditions. Experience the desert

scenery, wildlife and flora on game

drives and walks.

Early morning guided game drives

to the spectacular dunes are through

a private gate. Walks with incredible

views are also offered and night drives

with a spotlight reveal nocturnal

animals. For a truly unique experience

float over the magnificent sand dunes

in a hot air balloon followed by a

champagne breakfast wherever you

may land.

Kulala Tented Camp is built at thefoot of a mountain, within the oldest

desert in the world.

The comfortable tents are raised on

wooden decks and linked to the main

living area and pool by pathways.

The camp is ideal for guests on a

self-drive safari, although optional

excursions can be arranged including

visits to Sossusvlei, early morning

ballooning over the desert, guided

walks, and game drives to see the

animals of the desert.

LOCATION: All three Kulalaproperties lie in the heart of the Namib

Desert on a private reserve bordering

the Namib-Naukluft Park, Namibia.

K U L A L A D E S E R T L O D G E & L I T T L E K U L A L A

Sos su sv le i

K U L A L A T E N T E D C A M P

So ss us vl ei

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Swi mmi ng poo l Game walks Game drives Hot air ballooning Swimming pool Game walks Game drives Hot air ballooning


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One of the best preserved corners of wilderness left in the world.National Geographic Magazine

namibia chapter preview

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