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AFFAIRS Hostile hostels: check in at the world’s most dangerous hotelsBUSINESS Take a bow: how to be funky and gracious in a single move on the shop floorCULTURE Southern scene: the art world’s other LouisianaDESIGN Panasonic makes a move into town-planningEDITS Nice meat in Lisbon, edgy living in Melbourne and perfectly printed invites

The art of hospitality: reap what you sew (and bake, make and brew) The basics of being a good host: start in the home or a well-equipped Finnish classroom. Monocle gets a few lessons from battle-hardened GMs and some charming ambassadors. A new MONOCLE SPECIAL

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I’m part of a new

generation that can

actually...

Learning needs to be hands-on

and heads-down

…run a household, tend a bar and mend uniforms

OUR NEWHOSPITALITY AND TRAVEL SPECIAL

Putting on a corking event for esteemed guests requires exemplary decision-making

AT YOUR SERVICE

The well-designed airport lounge that makes you pray for a long delay

Ruth Rogers of the River Café describes the menu for her perfect ‘last meal’

THE TASTIEST CHEF

THE SMARTEST AIRLINE

THE FINEST EMBASSYThe Hospitality Rule Book

5 Focus on the details 6 Lead from the front 7 Be authentic 8 Hire sta! based on potential, not credentials 9 Speak with a consistent tone of voice : Turn the lights down ; Figure out your signature sound-

track < Avoid fads and trends = Keep your plates and bowls round 5> Old school is more welcoming than new school

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MONOCLE—Contributors

Andrew Colin Beck !""#$%&'%(& American illustrator Beck is travelling with his wife and son (the Netherlands, Morocco and Spain so far). His work is across )(*(+",’s Africa/Middle East, Americas and Oceania briefings. — '--'!&$ p!"The world’s most hospitable people? “Those who show love without expecting it back.”

Véronique Hoegger ./(%(0&'./,& Originally from Lausanne, Hoegger lives in Zürich and shoots for magazines and independent fashion labels. In this edition she photo-graphs fine art at Zürich’s Kronenhalle restaurant.— +#"%#&, p#$The world’s most hospitable people? “Hospitality is a state of mind rather than a specific country.”

David Severn ./(%(0&'./,& Severn is a Midlands, UK-based documentary and editorial photographer whose work has appeared in festivals and publications at home and abroad. For )(*(+", he turns his camera to local silverware. — 1,$!0* p$%!The world’s most hospitable people? “The team at The Malt Cross in Nottingham: my favourite local.”

Sune Engel Rasmussen 2&!%,& After a stint in Iran, Danish journalist Rasmussen now covers Afghanistan from Kabul. In this issue he visits the city’s oldest luxury hotel.— '--'!&$ p&"The world’s most hospitable people? “Iranians’ never-ending invita-tions for tea and sumptuous meals make it hard to get any-thing done in their country.”

Jamie Jones !""#$%&'%(& Jones was born in Shropshire, UK and studied illustration in Bristol before moving to London and establishing a studio in the south of the city. For )(*(+", he illustrates the defence briefing page.— '--'!&$ p'&The world’s most hospitable people? “I find those who are truly open-minded are kind no matter what.”

Carli Philips 2&!%,& Fashion and lifestyle journalist Philips is Melbourne contrib-uting editor for Belle magazine. But for )(*(+", she heads to California instead to see Palm Springs’ new Architec-ture and Design Center.— 1,$!0* p$()The world’s most hospitable people?“You can’t go five minutes in Tel Aviv without o3ers for a good home-cooked meal.”

Adriane Ohanesian ./(%(0&'./,& Upstate New Yorker Ohanesian was a professional figure-skating coach before choosing to photograph life in Sudan. Now based in Nairobi, she visits a high-risk hotel in Mogadishu for )(*(+",. — '--'!&$ p(%The world’s most hospitable people? “Sudanese hospitality is truly ingrained in the culture.”

Marissa Shirbin 2&!%,& Sydney-based Australian writer Shirbin reports on cultural a3airs around her city, Melbourne and Canberra. For )(*(+", she meets Singaporean restaurateur and hotelier Loh Lik Peng.— 4#$!*,$$ p"#The world’s most hospitable people? “The sta3 at The Grand Budapest Hotel, Republic of Zubrowka.”

In this edition we have searched the globe for the most inviting, indulgent and inspiring hotels and restaurants in the hospitality industry. So we asked our contributors which nation does them best.

Flora Bagenal 2&!%,& Bagenal has worked in Beijing, Washington, Nairobi and Bangkok but recently returned home to Oxford, UK, to embrace a new role: being a mum. For )(*(+", she visits the home of architects David and Im Schafer in Bangkok. — 1,$!0* p$(#The world’s most hospitable people? “Airbnb hosts, wherever you are in the world.”

Mary Fitzgerald 2&!%,& Originally from Cork, Fitzgerald has reported from Tripoli since 5677. For )(*(+", she writes about one of Libya’s top hotels.— '--'!&$ p(&The world’s most hospitable people? “I should probably say my fellow Irish citizens but little can compare to the kindness of strangers in corners of the Middle East and north Africa.”

Key to writers:

()8') Mikaela Aitken()'") Matt Alagiah("') Liam Aldous(&') Rachel Aspden()14) Megan Billings(*4) Nick Brown('4#) Alistair Bunkall (%42) Tom Burges Watson(!+) Ivan Carvalho('4+) Annabelle Chapman(91) Joseph Dana('1+) Alexandra de Cramer ('1$) Alex Duval Smith("1) Linda Dyett ($,&) Sune Engel Rasmussen($-0) Simon Farrell-Green(9'-) Josh Fehnert()-!) Mary Fitzgerald()0) Marcus George(*$0) Nolan Giles(40') Benoît Grogan-Avignon(8/) Kenji Hall($)!) Sarah Ichioka($8) Sahar Khan('8() Alexei Korolyov(9:") Jason Li(%") Trish Lorenz(;") Vivien Lu(8)) Kate Mayberry(%)+) Tristan McConnell(+)0) Charlotte McDonald-Gibson(%)) Tom Morris(')) Andrew Mueller (,*') Elna Nykänen Andersson(4() Ben Olsen(1,.) Debbie Pappyn(1).) David Plaisant(&$.) Richard Spencer Powell(+/&) Chiara Rimella("&) Laura Rysman()$$) Marie-Sophie Schwarzer(9$) Joshua Shapiro()$/) Marissa Shirbin('$-) Alexandra Stenbock-Fermor(,9$) Ed Stocker(9%) Junichi Toyofuku(';) Amanda Valmorbida(.2/) Peter White(-2) Fiona Wilson

!"# — $%%&' ()

MODERN LOVERS—Palm SpringsPrefaceArchitectural acolytes seeking a temple to modernism usually head for Scandinavia but they may now want to go west, too. In the California desert, an old bank has been reborn as an oasis of mid-century style and host to a cultural revival.

!"#$%"Carli Philips

&'($()"*&'%"Ken Tisuthiwongse

“The Palm Springs Architecture and Design Center started as all great things do: a dream that nobody thought pos-sible,” says JR Roberts, who managed the opening of his city’s newest museum, which opened late last year. “Palm Springs is finally emerging into the arts and cul-tural centre it was always meant to be.”

The space was designed in +,-+ as the Santa Fe Federal Savings and Loan bank by architect E Stewart Williams; the building is pure mid-century. Low slung with overhanging eaves, indoor-outdoor appeal and steel-and-glass bones, it was built to cope with the harsh climate without sacrificing views out to the San Jacinto Mountains. It opened with a retrospective honouring its architect, a testament to how this oasis in the desert is investing in its design legacy.

In addition to its role as a resource centre, the museum will host architec-tural tours as well as events for Modern-ism Week in February. The permanent collections will rotate on display along-side temporary and visiting exhibitions.

Marmol Radziner, the architecture firm that spearheaded the redevelopment, used Williams’ plans – along with pho-tographs by chronicler of mid-century architecture Julius Shulman – to honour the building’s past while also refreshing it. “Preservation is not about fighting change,” says co-founder Leo Marmol.

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*'+,*-Architecture and Design Center

01 Entrance to the Architecture and Design Center

02 Museum book shop housed in the original bank vault

03 Model of a house designed by E Stewart Williams, part of the museum’s opening exhibition

04 JR Roberts and Sidney Williams

05 Leo Marmol, co-founder of Marmol Radziner

The challenge, he adds, was maintain-ing a modernist feel while “balancing the nature of a glass pavilion with the curato-rial demands of light sensitivity” required to exhibit and store art. Bronze-anodised aluminium screens provide shade without sacrificing the view, their angled open-lattice design diffusing sunlight while their dark, metallic colour reduces glare. Inside, solar screens control light into the gallery while the concrete-block walls and terrazzo floor have been conserved.

“The conversion of the old bank was a seamless transition,” says Marmol. “It didn’t require aggressive intervention as the floorplan provided enough space for the gallery and enough support space to house the functions of the museum.”

Williams’ daughter-in-law Sidney, the museum’s curator, describes the archi-tect as “a very modest man” who would have been overwhelmed by the attention. The sentiment is echoed by Marmol, who sees Williams’ contributions to the city as invaluable. “He was,” he says, “a very dignified, respectful gentleman – a modest modernist.” — (.)