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Between Mazatln and Punta Mita (Banderas

Bay), weve found 6 stops on this 180-mile voyage:

Isla Isabela (frigate and booby preserve), the sheltered

port of San Blas, its sidekick Matanchn Bay (summer

surf city), coco-palm clad Chacala Bay, and in at

weather Guayabitos Cove (Jaltemba). Of these, Isla

Isabela and Chacala are more interesting.

NOTE: If you plan to visit Isla Isabela, we

suggest you try to pay the $2 fee at SEMARNAT in

Mazatln or PV before you go to Isabela, or promise

to pay it as soon as you get back to the mainland, dueto reports of snafus at San Blas.

ROUTE PLANNING: Mazatln to Punta Mita

Between Mazatln and San Blas we found nada

for yatistas. In fair weather, we angle SSE offshore

to visit Isla Isabela (86 miles), then ESE to close

with the coast at San Blas (39 miles) for fuel and

provisions; total 125 miles. Isabela has 2 small

marginally sheltered anchorages (S and SE sides), so

its OK for light prevailing N winds of winter and

spring, but not sheltered enough in a Norther, and itswide open to S wind.

San Blas straight to Punta Mita is about 47

miles SSW. If you stay coastal, this leg is about 55

miles. The Nayarit coast is fragrant jungle, hillier

as you move S. Chacala is an interesting overnight

anchorage; Guayabitos Cove (Jaltemba) is marginal.

Pacic SW swell unsheltered by the Baja peninsula

is possible in shore.

Crossing:To cross the Sea of Cortez to San Blas

from Las Frailes on East Cape (200 miles), a stop

at Isla Isabela (at mile 160) may allow a daylight

entrance at San Blas, and youll need to avoid coming

within 20 miles of all the prison colony islands, Las

Islas Marias.

In hurricane season, this stretch gets tropical storms

from the S and evening chubascos rolling down from

the Sierra Madres. Avoid it in late summer or transit

quickly nonstop.

Isla IsabelaIsla Isabela lured Jacques Cousteau here 30

years ago to lm the rare frigate nests and a pristineunderwater habitat. Today, tiny Isabela (281 volcanic

peak, not a mile long) is a National Wildlife Preserve

managed by the University of Guadalajara. Volunteers

built an unmanned observation shelter SW of the

panguero village on the S end. Grad students spend

their vacations studying and protecting 500 frigate

and booby nests all over the island. Children of all

ages are moved by this rare interaction.

15

Isla Isabela

to

Punta Mita

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15 Isla Isabela to Punta Mita

189

Visitors are welcome

ashore, but dont touch the

nesting trees (10 to 15 tall)

nor any birds or nests. Dont

approach birds mating, nesting

or feeding their fuzzy nestlings.

Male frigates puff their huge

red neck sacks. Blue-footed

boobies have amazingly blue

legs and feet. Brown boobies

have lime greenpatos.

Dogs and cats arent allowed

ashore, but if Fido needs to go,

visit the E beach with a poop

bag to remove hard evidence.

Approach: Coming from

Mazatlns Isla Creston, angle

SSE (about 149M) for 86 milesto approach Isla Isabelas SE

side. We avoid the NW, N, NE

and E sides, due to dangerous

submerged reefs and buoys

among and just outside the off-

lying Isla Peln (bald) (GPS

2151.42N, 10553.57W)

close NW of the island and

Las Moas (mannequins) off

the E side. A breaking rock

eld spreads a third of a mile

square just S of Isla Peln.

The mild current generally sets you W; spring

tides are 4 or less.

Our GPS approach waypoint 2150.4N,

10553W is .75 of mile SE of the nav light, just S of

the cove on the islands S side. Isla Isabela Light tops

a hill on the islands SW corner.

Caleta Isabela (South Cove)The cove on Isabelas S side is less than a quarter

mile wide. Its E interior reveals the collapsed S ank

of the islands primary caldera, and a lava-ow reef

shields a tiny W lobe.

Impinged by rocks on both sides, South Coves

main lobe for anchoring is only 240 yards wide. For

one or 2 boats, its open to swell from any S quarter,

but heavy N or NW wind makes it too rolly. A steep

cliff at the head of the cove shows distinct red and

black folded bands and provides the shelter, but avoid

rock-fall at the cliff base. We anchor just outside the

middle of the cove in 20 to 25 over sand between

rock patches.

NOTE: Avoid a dangerous submerged (depth 5)

rock pinnacle a few hundred yards SSE of the rocky

arm that separates the 2 lobes. Several boats report

hitting it.

Village Beach: South Coves tiny W lobe is

Frigate chicks are fed by both parents.

Nests are just above head high.

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framed by a lava ow (great tide pools) that limits

the entrance to all but pangas and dinghies. The coral

and lava beach fronts seasonal Isabela Village and

gives access to the frigate observatory and CraterLake. Isabela Village gets propane and medical

care monthly from San Blas. Navy patrol boats stop

frequently.

Observatory: Land on the SW end of VillageBeach. A path zigs up through the main frigate

rookery (dozens of low trees bearing frigate nests at

head level) then up to the shelter roof and observatory

hill. Iguanas sunbathe on the steps, hoping to be fed.

Each frigate and booby nest is numbered, so

volunteers with binoculars can record how many

eggs, when they were laid and hatched, how manytimes a day the fuzzy white nestlings are fed, when

they become edglings, rst ight, etc. If student

volunteers are here, they welcome food and water

donations.

Crater Lake:The path N from the village leads

past the open latrine to Crater Lake (not potable).

Las Moas (East Side)

NOTE: When moving

around the islands SW tip,

give a wide berth due to an

off-lying rock that breaks

only occasionally.

Las Moas: Isabels

E side is dominated by 2

twisting rock spires (150

tall) called Las Moas (the

Mannequins, meaning womens dress-making forms)

that lie 200 yards E of a sandy beach (dog beach).

Seasonal aquaculture buoys oat within a mile E ofthe Moas, and a research shack is on a cliff W of the

Moas.

The statuesque Moas are fairly deep close to;

we sounded 22 on the N side, 10 on the W side, 9

on the S side, 40 on the E side, and 6 in the pass

between. We usually anchor S of the Moas in 20

to 30 over shallow sand, coral rubble and then rock.

If youre well set, this is good shelter in N and NW

wind, usually less rolly and constricting than Caleta

Isabela. However, a yatewas lost recently when it

dragged into Las Moas.

In calm weather, boats anchor a bit farther SE in

40 and deeper sand. Some anchor on the 10 sand

shelf between the Moas and dog beach for quick

access to the middle of the island.

All around the Moas is good snorkeling, colorful

corals and reef critters. A rocky shoal immediately S

of the beach juts 50 offshore for more snorkeling, but

the S end of this shoal breaks. By dinghy, its half a

mile between Isla Isabelas

2 anchoring spots.

Each time weve

been here, the reportedanchorage on the islands

W side has been a mass of

Las Moas at

Isla Isabela is the

preferred spot.

Panga village on S side

of Isla Isabela below

frigate nests.

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surge and backwash. We love this remote island, but

if the WX is not right for a stop, its safer to push on.

San Blas & MatanchnSan Blas, Nayarit (pop. 8,500) is a small shrimp

port a mile up the Rio Pozo estuary, rebuilt since

hurricanes of 2003 and 2004. Offshore catches are

marlin, sailsh, dorado and corbina. Snook shing

in the estuaries is picking up, but most yatistas enjoy

the nice Pemex pier and good local produce.

However, San Blas estuary, San Cristobal estuary

and Matanchn Bay have bightingjejenesfor 2 hours

around sunset if the wind quits. Locals taught us to

burn dried coconut husks like incense as a natural

insect repellant.

Huichol women sell fantastic beadwork in the

plaza; its very collectable. Just outside town, ruins

of Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario and its bell

tower atop Cerro San Basilio are immortalized by H.

W. Longfellows nal poem, The Bells of San Blas.

La Tovara is a fresh-water spring to have lunch.

Matanchn Bay is 4.8 miles around 2 corners E

from San Blas harbor, NE of breaker fringed Punta

Camarnes. Radar paints 3.3 miles across shallow

Matanchn Bay, which runs a straight line NW to SE

with a small curve in the NW end. Only the middle

is anchorable and only in winter and spring; it closes

out June to October. Ramada cantinas line the beach

for the summer surf crowd.

Lay of the LandPiedra Blanca del Tierra (52) is less than a mile

WNW of the entrance to San Blas harbor. Punta San

Cristobal (GPS 2130.69N, 10516.01W) guards

the harbors SE approach. A striped light tower

stands on the NW side of the jetty entrance, and two

lighted riprap jetties and lighted buoys lead you up

the channel, N then NW. Seasonal shoals inside are

buoyed. Follow a shrimper or ask the Port Captain

for a panga guide.

In the channel, to starboard you pass the Navy

dock, panga & dinghy landing, Aduana building and

the old shrimper basin (rectangular) with the new

anchorage

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Capitana on its W seawall, then the new Pemex fuel

pier. Another man-made basin to starboard up the

channel is in ux, then around a channel bend is a

newly dredged lobe of the estuary.

AnchorageSan Blas harbor:Anywhere W of the

channel and N of the dinghy landing is good holding

mud in 10 to 15, but plan for max 3-knot tidal

current. The lobe 100 yards NE of the town has been

dredged for anchoring and may have fewer bugs. Set

screens before sunset.

Matanchn Bay:When moving betweenthe harbor and the bay, dont mistake Punta San

Cristobal (estuary behind it) for Punta Camarnes

(GPS 2130.65N, 10514.87W), which lies a mile

farther east. Both points have breakers. See satellite

photo. Anchor (15 soft mud) about 1.5 miles E of

Punta Camarnes. Dinghy to Matanchn village in

the NW corner and bus to town. Dinghy vandals

have been reported. Santa Cruz village in the E

end is usually too rolly.

Local ServicesSan Blas is a port of entry, and its jurisdiction

covers Matanchn Bay. The Capitana is in the

shrimper darsena; Aduana is a block N of the

dinghy landing; Migracin is 2 blocks farther N,

or 2 blocks S of the plaza.

If you want a ships agent, call Irma on VHF 22.

Sportshing skipper Norm Goldie on VHF 16 and 22

helps yatistas, but some call him the Enforcer.

Fuel: San

Blass new

easy in, easy

out Pemex pier

is a stationary

c o n c r e t e

platform, 200

long on the

channel side,

100 on both

ends. Storm

relief gave SanBlas Mexicos

cheapest diesel

in 2005, but we cant tell how long it will

last.

Provisions: Several grocery stores

and mercados uptown have excellent local

fruits & veggies in winter and spring. Off

the plaza is Botica, a good pharmacy.

The ice house behind the shrimper

darsena uses puried water, has block &

cube.

Misc.: We found a few hardware

stores, outboard motor parts & repair shops,

and commercial sheries gear for shrimpers.

As San Blas sportshing tournament grows,

we expect to see more boat supplies.

Bells of San Blas are silent at

Longfellows church in ruins.

Big new fuel pier in San Blas harbor

is N of shrimper basin.

Huichol women sell their beadwork

at the plaze in downtown San BLas.

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2 hotels dot the S end. Semana Santa (Easter week)

brings thousands of inlanders to Chacala beach withtents, RVs and jet skis. Its almost deserted unless

yatistas stop in winter and spring.

No fuel and few supplies are had in the village

behind the N end of the bay, as provisions come from

Las Varas 6 miles inland. Locals say the English

pirate Thomas Cavendish was here in 1587. Chacala

has some very pricey homes.

AnchorageIn moderate N wind, we tuck up into the NE

corner (25 to 36 sand, mud) just S of the big panga

landing. Theres good holding anywhere NE of theNavy mooring buoy. In at periods, you can anchor

off the beach, outside the shore break. The dinghy &

panga landing is inside a tiny separate bight NW of

the beach. The bays SW end is rocky.

Local ServicesThe Capitana overlooks the landing, but its

often closed.For excellent breakfast and lunch, climb the

street beside the Capitana; just over the crest

theres a B & B; ask for service 30 minutes ahead.

At the S end of Chacala, a holistic retreat and

womens clinic is open by appointment.

Take a taxi 6 miles to Las Varas (nice drive) for

2 good grocery stores, coin laundry, huge fruteria,

bus to Puerto Vallarta.

COASTWISE continued

Caleta el Naranjo: 1.7 miles SSW of PuntaChacala, we havent sounded this tiny, jungle-clad

but seemingly sheltered cove with private homes. A

smaller N lobe has a private pier.

Punta Guayabitos:2.5 miles S of Punta Chacala,

this forested bluff is the N end of the 6-mile long

beach that ends at Guayabitos Cove.

Guayabitos CoveThis cove with indifferent anchorage is 23 miles

NE of Punta Mita, 28 miles S of San Blas. Three

resort villages, Jaltemba (pronounced hahl-TAYM-

bah), Rincon de Guayabitos (guavas corner) and LosAyala, crowded the S end of this 6-mile long beach

that starts at Punta Guayabitos (GPS 2107.27N,

10514.33W) and curves SW along Playa Jaltemba

to end at Guayabitos Cove, which lies 1.2 miles SE

of the prominent Punta Raza headland (GPS

2102.34N, 10518.66W). Playa Jaltemba

is N of Guayabitos Cove; Los Ayala is private

homes that climb the hillside in the Navy base

cove between La Puntilla and Punta Raza.

Isla la Pea (GPS 2103.16N,

10516.38W) is rounded, palm-and-guano

clad, and has 2 docks and a restaurant. It lies

a mile NE of Punta Raza and 5 miles SW of

Big pier is handy landing at Chacala.

Provisioning at Las Varas yields

tropical fruits galore.

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Punta Guayabitos, so it somewhat

shelters Guayabitos Cove from N

wind. Peais the nautical term for

the top of a mizzen mast. A smaller

islet half a mile SSW of Isla la Pea

is wreathed in rocky shoals where

crabs pots are set.

In light S wind, weve anchored

off Los Ayala in 14 to 23 over sand;

its tight beside the Navy mooring,

and Ayala an get refraction around

Punta Raza. In moderate S wind,anchor among the panga buoys in

Guayabitos Cove, 12 to 17 over sand. Weekend

nights can be disco noisy, but the hotels beach

cantinas have early morning espresso.

In N weather, the only shelter is S of Isla la Pea.

Anchor in about 30 outside the coral heads, but its

not very sheltered. The delicate corals are protected

by law. Guayabitos Cove is a fair-weather stop, and

even then we dont leave a boat unattended. Fonatur

has plans to build a marina off the island.

COASTWISE to Punta Mita

Half a mile SW of Punta Raza, a shallow boat

channel leads E to homes on three S channels. The

next 23 miles SW to the Punta Mita headland

are sculpted by small beaches backed by

Highway 200. We stay 2 or 3 miles off.

Punta Sayulita: Ten miles NE of Punta

Mitas N ank, this forested point juts NE

forming a 2-mile wide bay, crescent beach

and artsy town of Sayulita. Waves wrap the

corner in any amount of wind and the bottom

is rocky.Ensenada Litibu,the 5-mile wide bay SE

of North Head, is backed by low land only half

a mile wide, so development spills over from

Punta Mita.

North Head (GPS 2047.63N, 10531.14W)

is the bold N tip of the Punta Mita headland, which

runs almost 2.5 miles NE to SW. North Head has

545 cone-shaped hills and radio antennas.

Punta Mita: Round all sides of Punta Mita at

least a mile off to avoid dangerous pinnacles. We use

the name Punta Mita, because thats what the locals

call it. See next chapter.

Guayabitos Cove is pretty, best

in fat calms or S wind.

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