Sydney’s easy summer spiritOnce again, the Sydney Carriage­works housed Mercedes­Benz Australian Fashion Week, and what a venue it is. My only complaint would be that it is harder to reach than the Over­seas Terminal, which housed the event until 2012, but it is chic and sleek and has all the light and space that is needed to feature the collections. The week was launched by Carla Zampatti on Sunday, followed by a welcome ceremony in the Mercedes­Benz Star Lounge, studded by glitteratti and those who are trying hard to be. A hub for fashionistas, I immediately caught up with Phoebes Garland, who was wearing a most astonishing jacket designed by Cameo (a label owned by her stepdaughter). Joshua Heath was also there, trying to demonstrate to other male stylists how things are worn, as he has achieved the right balance of sleek, different but not clownish. These two are on the list of best dressed fashionistas in Sydney. But you can be thoroughly entertained by what some people wear as well. The creator of Zoolander may have a field day and entirely new ideas here. Good on the people who dare!

Viviana Pannell looks at the first major spring–summer collections, from Mercedes-Benz Australian Fashion Week in Sydney, with a forecast of comfortable, resort living and sporting styles

fash

ion

Being fed and watered at the Mercedes­Benz Star Lounge was not at all something I was op­posed to, and this melting­pot of talents and fol­lowers has been an exhilarating place to people­watch, chat and exchange ideas and, in general, have a fantastic time. Having watched various collections, I can definitely say that crop­tops, whether fitted or flared, boxy shapes and colour banding will be very much in next summer, along with short versions of 1950s flare skirts, new takes on sportswear made fashionable and easy­going resort wear. I spotted versions of harem trou­sers on various collections and gowns remain goddess­style, with colour panelling a feature in various collections. Aurelio CostarellaAurelio Costarella is earning a formidable repu­tation internationally as he turns his Western Australian­based company into an international luxury brand. Driven by the design process, each thematic collection is an exploration that moves seamlessly from one season to the next.

Alex Perry

Ale

x P

er

ry

Ph

oto

gr

AP

he

d b

y l

uc

As

dA

ws

on

Ph

oto

gr

AP

hy

46

lu

cire

33

/201

4

It was very fitting for Aurelio Costarella to open mbafw 2014. The design­er is celebrating his 30th year in business, a true pioneer of Australian fash­ion and, most specially, wa fashion. Consid­ered the wild, wild west, wa is more a place for cowboys than for creators of beauty, but Costarella broke new ground and put Perth on the map, not only for Australian fashion but for the world. However, when one meets the man be­

hind the dreamy frocks, you find a disarmingly down­to­earth person: fame has not spoiled Cos­tarella and he remains true to himself. The collection, Sol­aire, opened with an impressive, very de­tailed bodysuit, fol­lowed by a succession of gowns of unbridled femininity. Costarella is keen on soft, feath­ery effects and you could see this resurfac­ing in some of this col­lection’s gowns, but he also added some very architectural,

Holly wood goddess­style, black­and­white gowns, a splash of fuchsia, orange and purple, as well as a more edgy capsule of citrus and blue garments that made me feel like soar­ing up in the sky, as they made me think of hang­gliders, the sky, and the endless blue sea which I can perennially see here in Sydney.

Costarella’s mastery of the feminine form remains apparent in his prowess of tailoring extremely detailed corsets that depart from the norm and have interesting cuts added to their complexity. Never one to follow trends but set them, Aurelio continues producing pieces that stylish women can wear anytime, now or in twenty years. True works of art. Alex PerrySynonymous with style and elegance, Alex Perry is undoubtedly one of Australia’s most iconic, celebrated and enduring designers. The brand has a rich history that spans more than two decades. Perry named his collection Varsity, and truly captured a spirit of cheerleading fun, making interesting use of bands, contrast colour panels and insertions where, unex­pectedly, this take on sportswear–active­wear was delivered in sequinned and croc­like laminated materials, rich textures, laces and other delicate fabrics that you would not nor­mally see in a collection embracing a youth­ful, sporty spirit. But it worked. In the midst of his fresh new look, Perry delivered the rich, body­hugging gowns we are all used to seeing from him. In vivid colour.

Alex Perry

Alex Perry

Aurelio Costarella

Aurelio Costarella Aurelio Costarella

My favourite was a black dress with asym­metric shoulder and exposed right leg. The shaped basques and flares on skirts gave the collection a flirtatious flavour. Sweet. KahloKahlo’s collections feature trans­seasonal ele­ments with beautifully soft leathers, suede, merino wool and silks throughout. Kahlo’s spring–summer 2014–15 collection is reminis­cent of teenage sportswear, with simple, clean

lines, incorporating metallic and holographic leather in rose gold and silver, coupled with a colour palette of mint, pale pink, blush and grey marle to invoke a mood of Italian disco and the French underground dance scene. Boxy, flared crop tops, tabs on sleeves, lay­ering and general ease of wear were apparent. The piece I thought is a must­have is a pair of black trousers with exposed gold zippers running down the front of both legs.

ElleryAnother famous St Martin’s graduate, Perth­born Kym Ellery has achieved cult local status and international success since launching her label in 2007. Ellery’s effortless æsthetic was fashion’s newest asset. Strong silhouettes, daring com­binations of textures and unique hardware detailing create its distinctly modern feel. Its collections present a seamless urban uniform. The designer’s muse is individualistic and de­

fash

ion

Alex Perry

Kahlo

Kahlo

48

lu

cire

33

/201

4

cidedly feminine. The summer ’15 collection was a mix of sculptural long gowns and easy­fit garments exploring volume and flare, unusual sleeve lengths and the mix of plain and textured ma­terials. The stand­out for me was a goddess gold top featuring pleated drapes paired with translucent organza trousers.

Strateas CarlucciThe Strateas Carlucci design method­ology is unique, in that designers Peter Strateas and Mario­Luca Carlucci use opposing forms and meld them into a neo­industrial structural hybrid. This is the result of taking geometric shapes and sculpting them through an origami approach of folds, cuts and twists to or­ganic forms, which the designers coin as ‘Metron­morphosis’. Their summer

’15 collection, Fracture, clearly delivered their vision, with every garment giving the impres­sion of being hand­crafted, unique and ex­clusive, featuring interesting fabrics, superb craftsmanship and sublime structures and fit. I am only not sure if this was meant to be a summer or a winter collection, as heavy lay­ering and thick jumpers were a feature. The

tailoring was sublime and my favourite outfit was a skirt with a complicated, layered bustle, paired with a stunning leather jacket. Gail SorrondaGail Sorronda has managed to elicit inter­national interest since the inception of her eponymous label in 2005 and has a signature of dark romance. Her summer 2015 collection departed a bit from what I was expecting, though I still saw a lot of volume, layering, frills and ethereal materials. Crisp and vivacious prints on casu­al wear, some really directional, voluminous garments featuring vertical pleats, hounds­tooth and banding of colours in a single gar­ment were featured throughout the collec­tion. My favourites remain more within her usual signature, a beautiful “artist’s” shirt in

Kahlo

Ellery

Ellery

Ellery

Strateas Carlucci, backstage

Ale

x P

er

ry:

lu

cA

s d

Aw

so

n P

ho

tog

rA

Ph

y; K

Ah

lo:

MA

tth

ew

wo

od

wA

rd

33

/2014

lucire

4

9

white organza and a gorgeous little black dress with delicate, textural detailing. Phoenix KeatingPhoenix Keating has captured the imagination of international press and even of Lady Gaga’s stylists (during her impromptu perfor­mances in Sydney in 2011) with his undeniably idiosyncratic and daring styles. One thing I can say of Keat­ing is that he cares about expressing himself rather than following the flock. The name of his spring–sum­mer 2014–15 collection, presented on the runway on Monday, La Diosa de Oro (the golden goddess), was the nickname for the first fe­male bullfighter, Conchita Citron. The collection draws its inspira­tion from a matador’s traje de luces. While keeping the Phoenix Keating æsthetic, La Diosa de Oro explores a Spanish flavour to garments whilst using his signature 1950s silhouette, which Phoenix ex­plained came from leafing through old Vogue magazines from that era. It truly was a feast of colour, unusual fabric choices and even led lighting. By JohnnyJohnny Schembri is, deservedly, an award winning designer. The By Johnny spring–summer 2014–15 collection, entitled Spectrum, was one of the most anticipated of the week

and covered innovative design via fabrications, textures and techniques based on Schembri’s signature minimalist design æsthetic of struc­ture, body contouring, geometric sculptur­ing and bold graphics. Spectrum explores the idea of light, shade and shape—utilizing the fine female form to highlight new fitting cuts. The colour combinations were unusual but worked well. I just loved a dress with a fitted white top with cut out on the midriff and a skirt featuring diagonal stripes in black, or­ange and white.

Michael Lo SordoI bumped into Michael Lo Sordo after his show at the Mercedes­Benz Star Lounge and asked him about his collection and the inspi­ration behind it. He told me that the collec­tion was all about the woman. Softness, ease of wear, pieces that women can be proud of for many years to come.

Michael Lo Sordo

Michael Lo Sordo Michael Lo Sordo

Toni Maticevski Toni Maticevski

Toni Maticevski

Mic

hA

el

lo s

or

do

: w

en

de

ll t

eo

do

ro

/Me

diA

ide

M.c

oM

.Au

50

lu

cire

33

/201

4

A combination of soft silks, snakeskin and merino, featuring gelati colours, the runway line­up gave you the impression of being at a six­star resort, somewhere in the Ægean. His exquisite but relaxed tailoring came through all garments and there were some unusually shaped lapels that I loved. A shirt is a shirt but not when Michael Lo Sordo creates one! Crisp and at the same time soft and flow­ing, the collection epitomized Lo Sordo’s expert draping and beautiful tailoring. He achieved his goal of creating a range that is effortlessly sexy. He mused that Australian fashion is growing strong and this event is

an outstanding opportunity to showcase his range internationally, and I look forward to the next stages of his progress. We Are HandsomeAccording to the label (an idea that is a lullaby to my heart): ‘every now and then something comes along that changes us. A shift that af­fects every corner of our world, our entire being. The moment that defines the rest of our lives. That special someone whose eyes speak volumes of truth. The place where the sun rises from the sea, and creates a canvas to make your mark. The heirloom that pro­

vides protection and comfort from the perils of the world. We call this the catalyst. Seeking out truth and beauty, the change we search for may come from within, but always is pro­found. A single moment in time is all that’s needed to realize what needs to change, and how to take that next step. Through intuition and hard work we all seek our catalyst —that which puts on a new path, the journey to our destiny.’ Jeremy and Katinka Somers’s Catalyst col­lection was presented at a very original, out­doors location, the Sydney Reservoir, in Pad­dington. Those who took the bus to watch the show were rewarded with a playful col­lection of swimwear and resort­wear, featur­ing animal prints, literally, prints of animals: zebra, tiger, snake. Delightful, very Sydney, very fresh. Even the yellow Burmese python that made an appearance, draped on a model, seemed to think so. CameoCameo has an impressive following around the world and is stocked in a multitude of outlets, nationally and internationally. Its main trait is being youthful, directional and attainable, a clever move in the current fash­ion climate. The collection showcasing at mbfwa is ti­tled Optics and is inspired by the refraction of light, This concept is explored with the use of prisms, shapes, holographic prints and neon colours. It featured a juxtaposition of relaxed resort­wear in fluid materials, more tailored and classic frocks featuring peplums, drop shoulders and a succession of really interest­ingly cut skirts with insertions in contrasting, printed materials, with layering of sheer over

Michael Lo Sordo

Toni Maticevski Toni Maticevski

33

/2014

lucire

51

print. My favourite piece in this collection was a little white dress, made of lace. Toni MaticevskiSince the launch of Toni Maticevski in 1999, drive and vision has seen this talented de­signer gracefully continue to achieve and evolve the Maticevski brand, which in reward has earned him the role of one of the most successful and talented Australian designers. Since his fashion week début in 2002, Mati­cevski has gone on to present his collections in Paris, London and New York. Maticevski is all about architecture, crafts­manship and the feminine form. Exquisite tailoring and layering speak volumes of his

prowess and ability to concoct a delightful collection of shapes harmoniously in a sin­gle garment. Always complicated to achieve, never heavy to behold. Just sheer beauty. The runway collection featured his signa­ture architectural flounces, the mix of sheer and solid fabrics and voluminous skirts remi­niscent of Dior skirts of the 1950s, paired with fitted bodices. My favourite was a black dress that had an unusual, asymmetric cut around the neckline. White, black and black­and­white print predominated but there was a splash of colour as well. A stunningly styled show, the music put you in the mood for the romance that followed. In love.

Unif.mFounded by a small class of Sydney creatives, Uniform Studios Sydney launched with the simple mission of reinventing everyday wear. Unif.m garments are developed to integrate seamlessly into an existing wardrobe and create a strong foundation. Defined by its craftsmanship, Unif.m fuses materials and techniques traditionally used for industry­grade uniforms with leather, silk and jersey, to create pieces that have a sense of refined ease and subtle luxury. Simplicty was the feature of this collection, but being a chatterbox to anyone, I have heard (from a little bird) that they are firmly in the eye of an American talent scout, so the limit for this consortium may well be the sky! Romance Was BornRomance Was Born have an amazing capac­ity for turning out exquisitely crafted clothes that go beyond trends and are recognizable worldwide. They’ve embarked upon col­laborations with Australia’s finest artists and retailers, including Archibald prize­winning artist Del Kathryn Barton, and clothing giant Sportsgirl. This allows the designers, Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett, creative licence to explore their own artisan capabilities, with breathtaking results. Their creations are highly idiosyncratic and have a signature so strong that you can­not fail but know it was produced by them. This year, their spring–summer 2014–15 col­lection was presented in an installation form, with mannequins suspended by hooks and chains from above. For whatever reason, many of the garments and the collection as

fash

ion

Romance Was Born

We Are Handsome

We Are Handsome We Are Handsome

We Are Handsome

we

Ar

e h

An

ds

oM

e:

luc

As

dA

ws

on

Ph

oto

gr

AP

hy

52

lu

cire

33

/201

4

We Are Handsome

a whole reminded me of Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. Very colourful and original, it is hard to pick a single piece from the col­lection as a favourite. The InnovatorsThe Innovators’ show featured the work of several recent graduates from the Ul­timo tafe school of fashion, carefully selected as promising future stars. I am always delighted to see fashion, which is, like the name indicates, truly innovative and unrestrained by commercial reality. However, most of the garments were highly wearable. Irish girl Claire Nolan opened the show with a very vibrant collection including bold use of colour, cuts exposing skin and prints. These kids show promise, as they already demonstrate prowess in material manipula­tion, with expert draping and pleating seen in several of the collections, as well as innova­tive ideas: some of the dresses were held by translucent rods joining shoulders and other parts of the garment. Ae’lkemiThis was an ethereal show that opened with blood red outfits and followed with black and white. Lacy, translucent gowns sashayed down the runway, with one of my favourites being a silver white gown with delicate verti­cal frills on the hip area, resembling feathers, and a white poncho worn as a dress with ex­quisite detailing on the back. See­through lace

gowns and sets were present, and beautiful. My only com­ment would be that totally see­through garments on nude bodies are not really likely to be worn by many women. I may have liked them even more if nude lin­ing had been applied to the gowns in some strategic areas. By and large, glamor­ous, delicate, feminine. AjeWhenever I am going to see an Aje show, I expect an un­forgettable experience and they never fail to deliver and exceed expectations. Aje’s show was An Ode to Osa

Aje

: K

ier

rA

th

or

n/M

ed

iAid

eM

.co

M.A

u;

Ae’

lKe

Mi:

ch

ey

ne

til

lie

r-d

Aly

continued on p. 144

fash

ion

Aje

Aje

Ae’lkemi

Ae’lkemi

54

lu

cire

33

/201

4

Attending Aurelio Costarella’s show during mbafw was one of the highlights of my fash­ion year. I was given the outstanding opportunity to meet Costarella and brand manager Paul O’Connor in per­son, at their suite in Surry Hills, where I was able to appreciate the collection and touch the garments: for us creatives, touch is such an important tool, especially for those who relish the texture and richness and want to show many the layers to their work. Costarella’s style speaks to my soul as he has a love for creating rich, timeless pieces with a contemporary edge and the collec­tions always tell a memorable story. If I had loved what I saw coming out on the catwalk, touching and seeing the garments first­hand brought my appreciation to a completely new dimension. The amazing quality of the workmanship and exquisite detail applied to each garment was awe­inspiring. It was su­perbly well­tailored and crafted, with a mastery in cut and manufacture that is rarely seen nowadays. To meet the mastermind of these memorable pieces in person was humbling, for Costarella has no airs and graces and is absolutely down­to­earth. I do not honestly think that any of Costarella’s pieces would be out of place alongside pieces created for famous operas and ballets by the late Gianni Versace, or any other of the European greats. Driven by the design process, each thematic collection is an exploration, a journey that moves seamlessly from one season to the next. A focus on textile development, detailed cutting and quality craftsmanship set the Aurelio Costarella brand apart. With a distinctive handwriting that ranges from trade­mark delicate silk chiffon gowns to intricate handcrafted beadwork, embroidery and sharp tailoring, the Aurelio Costarella brand is a

luxurious offering. Costarella explained that each colour way used in any of his collections is exclusive to his label and silks and other materials are especially dyed from the yarn for him by specialist fabric suppliers.

I asked him how did he discover his passion for fashion and he explained that

his family was one of Italian immigrants during the ’50s, and one of the items that his grandmother had brought from home was an old pedal­powered Singer machine, an item of much fun and experimentation over the years. Though Costarella actually trained as an architect, fashion had a greater pull in the end and he launched the eponymous label at Australian Fashion Week in 2000, with his first piece having been, years before that, a white halter created for one of his friends and sewn on the ancestral Singer. Since then, the Aurelio Costarella brand has built a strong following with a loyal celebrity cli­entèle, worn and admired by international stars including Rihanna, Dita von Teese, Naya Rivera, Nicole Scherzinger, Keri Hilson, Melissa George, Dannii Minogue and Tina Arena. Costarella has also been the recipient of prestigious inter­national awards and has had a presence at New York Fashion Week and G’Day usa since 2006, and his work was showcased at Shanghai World Expo in 2010. For stockists both in Australia and New Zea­

land and to view Aurelio’s fabulous collections, visit www.aureliocos tarella.com. •

Speaking to the soulViviana Pannell speaks to one of her favourites from Australian Fashion Week, Aurelio Cos-tarella

Johnson, the first woman explorer of Africa—an installation in the Theatre, with a central stage featuring a large safari tent and models languidly standing and sitting around. There were many highly wearable garments and a stand­out black lace trouser and blouse set that I want to own right now. Glamorous and sexy but with the right balance of coverage to

make it highly wear­able. A green leather jacket also stood out—beautifully cut and tailored. The de­signers were greet­ing guests at the back of the tent and

they were their usual selves, relaxed, happy, warm, down­to­earth. The atmosphere was

last

wor

ds

Sydney’s easy summer spiritcontinued from p. 52

MAO’S MOAMONDAY

DOUBLEHAPPINESS

Moa on tap $6+ dumplings $15

2 for 1 cocktailsevery Tuesday, house cocktails only

WINE WEDNESDAY

glass of mystery wine $6try your luck!

DRAGONFLY asian dining lounge

70 Courtenay Place, Wellington 04 803 3995 dine@dragon-fly.co.nz dragon-fly.co.nz

CORPORATE FUNCTIONSBIRTHDAY PARTIES

PRE-THEATRE DININGSPECIAL OCCASIONS

Open Monday - Saturday 4:30pm - LateRestaurant Bar Courtyard

Viviana Pannell is Sydney correspondent for Lucire.

realizing how intricate the development pro­cess is, and learning that details are crucial in the piece’s value. Diamond cutters and lapidaries (special­ists focused on cutting all stones other than diamonds) grade a piece according to the four Cs: carat, clarity (in terms of investigat­ing the presence of inclusions), colour and cut. Stones are categorized under precious (diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald), fine (clear and transparent pieces) and ornamen­tal (more opaque stones). L’École Van Cleef & Arpels encour­ages people to learn that there is more to the brand’s jewellery pieces than just their physical appeal; a specific protocol is fol­lowed in order to achieve their enviable appearance. The course reveals a mixture of invigorating discussions and hands­on practice, with the overall experience shedding a light on just how the company arrives at such flawless pieces. •

Uncovering the genesiscontinued from p. 33

evocative of exact ly the story they were try­ing to tell with this beautiful collection. Viva Aje! And may their dreamy creativity bring us endless collections to love and cherish. The buzzBeing one of the lucky ones able to enjoy the Mercedes­Benz Star Lounge, I had the outstanding opportunity to mingle with styl­ists, designers, celebrities and media. It was refreshing to hear stories from the designers themselves and also meet some of the peo­ple in the background who make their col­lections possible. Phoe nix Keating is a warm and un­assuming guy who welcomes you to talk and puts you at ease immediately. I had a nice conversation with him and also bumped into celebrity stylists Joshua Heath and Josh Finn (ex­Australia’s Next Top Model). Always great to exchange impressions with them: Heath was, of course, epitomizing the man­ner in which a trendy male ought to dress, without crossing the Zoolander line of spoof fashion, and Finn was sweetly dressed with a great printed poncho by Camilla, which only he, as a guy, can do justice to. I was pleased to meet the leather man of fashion here, Juan Valdes, of Chilean decent and leather tailor to celebrities, high­end designers and a col­laborator even to the latest Star Wars movies. We joked that South Americans are like God: they are everywhere! An after­party wrapped the week at Hu­

go’s Lounge in Kings Cross, well attended by models and stylists, and featured rivers of Mumm, espresso Martinis and anything that the heart could desire in terms of drink. A moment to let your hair down after a gruel­ling but delightful four days of shows. •

144