THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Virginia Maxwell, Nicola Williams

#̂

SouthernTuscany

(p232)

CentralCoast &

Elba(p162)

EasternTuscany

(p251)

Siena & CentralTuscany

(p187)

NorthwesternTuscany

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Elba

Florence(p56)

Florence & Tuscany

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Florence & Tuscany . . . . . 4

Florence & Tuscany Map . .6

Florence & Tuscany’s Top 18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18

First Time Florence & Tuscany . . . . 20

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Month by Month . . . . . . . 26

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Staying in Tuscany . . . . . 33

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Outdoor Experiences . . . 44

Travel with Children . . . . 50

Regions at a Glance . . . . 53

FLORENCE . . . . . . . . . 56

NORTHWESTERN TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 120Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Pistoia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144San Miniato & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146The Apuane Alps & Garfagnana . . . . . . . . . . 148Castelnuovo di Garfagnana . . . . . . . . . . 148Barga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Bagni di Lucca . . . . . . . . . 152Carrara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153The Versilian Coast . . . 155Pietrasanta . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Viareggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157The Lunigiana . . . . . . . . 158Pontremoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

CENTRAL COAST & ELBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Livorno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166The Etruscan Coast . . . 170Castiglioncello . . . . . . . . . 170

Bolgheri & Around . . . . . . .171Castagneto Carducci . . . . 172San Vincenzo . . . . . . . . . . 172Suvereto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Golfo di Baratti . . . . . . . . . 173Elba & the Tuscan Archipelago . . . 176Elba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Gorgona, Capraia, Pianosa & Giglio . . . . . . . . 186

SIENA & CENTRAL TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . .187Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Greve in Chianti . . . . . . . .205Around Greve in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Castellina in Chianti . . . .209Radda in Chianti . . . . . . . . 210Around Radda in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Val d’Elsa . . . . . . . . . . . . .211San Gimignano . . . . . . . . . 211Volterra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Val d’Orcia . . . . . . . . . . . 222Montalcino . . . . . . . . . . . . 222

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Contents

Around Montalcino . . . . . 224Pienza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Monticchiello . . . . . . . . . . 227Val di Chiana . . . . . . . . . 227Montepulciano . . . . . . . . . 227

SOUTHERN TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 232The Alta Maremma . . . . 236Massa Marittima . . . . . . . 236Vetulonia & Around . . . . . 241Città del Tufa . . . . . . . . 242Pitigliano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Sovana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Around Sovana . . . . . . . . . 245Sorano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245The Bassa Maremma . . 246Grosseto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Around Grosseto . . . . . . . 248Parco Regionale della Maremma . . . . . . . . . 248Orbetello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Monte Argentario . . . . . . . 249

EASTERN TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 251Arezzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Sansepolcro . . . . . . . . . 259The Casentino . . . . . . . . 263Poppi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Val di Chiana . . . . . . . . . 267Castiglion Fiorentino . . . . 267Cortona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

Florence & Tuscany Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274

The Tuscan Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 286

The Tuscan Table . . . . . 290

Tuscany on Page & Screen . . . . . . . 297

Art & Architecture . . . . 302

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 320

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 327

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 332

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .351

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURES

Tuscan Artists Plenty of big names jostle for precedence in the pantheon of Tuscan artists, so narrowing any list down to a ‘Top Five’ is a near impossible task. Here’s our best attempt.

Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564) The quintessential Renaissance man. A painter, sculptor and architect with more masterpieces to his credit than any other artist either before or since. In Florence, view his David in the Galleria dell’Accademia and his Tondo Doni (Holy Family) in the Uffizi.

Sandro Botticelli (c 1444–1510) His Renaissance beauties charmed commissions out of the Medicis and continue to exert their siren call on the millions who visit the Uffizi Gallery each year. Don’t miss his Primavera and Birth of Venus.

Giotto di Bondone (c 1266–1337) Giotto kick-started the Renaissance with action-packed frescoes in which each character pinpoints emotions with facial expressions and poses that need no translation. Make the pilgrimage to Assisi to see his Life of St Francis fresco cycle.

Fra’ Angelico (c 1395–1455) Few artists are saints – they’re far more likely to be sinners. One of the exceptions was Il Beato Angelico, who was canonised in 1982. His best-loved work is the Annunciation, versions of which are on display in Florence’s Museo di San Marco and Cortona’s Museo Diocesano.

Duccio di Buoninsegna (c 1255–1318) Head honcho of the Sienese school; known for his riveting Madonnas with level gazes and pale-green skin against glowing gold backgrounds. His masterwork is the Maestà in the Museo dell’Opera in Siena.

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1. Fra’ Angelico’s Annunciation 2. Botticelli’s Primavera 3. Di Buoninsegna’s Madonna with Child and Siz Angels

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Outdoor Experiences . . 44

3D Uffizi Illustration . . . 66

Florence for Shoppers . . 114

Why Pisa Leans . . . . . . . .126

Wine Tour of Chianti . . 206

Medieval Masterpieces . . . . . . . . . 220

Magnificent Monasteries . . . . . . . . . . 260

Tuscan Artists . . . . . . . . 310

Tuscan Architecture . . . .314

SURVIVAL GUIDE

On the Road

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Virginia MaxwellCoordinating Author; Siena & Central Tuscany; Southern Tuscany; Eastern Tuscany Based in Australia, Virginia spends part of every year in Italy indulging her passions for history, art, architecture, food and wine. She has written two previous editions of this guide and covers both Tuscany and other parts of the country for the Italy and Western Europe books. Though reticent to nominate a favourite Tuscan destination (arguing that they’re all wonderful), she usually

nominates Florence if pressed. For this book Virginia also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section, Tuscany on Page & Screen, Art & Architecture and the Survival Guide section.

Nicola WilliamsFlorence; Northwestern Tuscany; Central Coast & Elba A British writer and editorial consultant, Nicola has lived on the southern shore of Lake Geneva for over a decade. Thankfully for her Italianate soul, it is an easy hop through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Italy where she has spent years eating her way around and revelling in its extraordinary art and landscape. Nicola has worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, including Italy, Milan, Turin & Genoa and Piedmont. She

blogs at tripalong.wordpress.com and tweets @tripalong. For this book Nicola also wrote Eat & Drink Like a Local, Outdoor Experiences and most of the Understand section.

Read more about Virginia at: lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxwell

Read more about Nicola at: lonelyplanet.com/members/nicolawilliams

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Jan 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 718 6© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Florence anchors any ‘best of’ tour. You’ll need at least three days to do this magnifi-cent city justice – any less and you’ll be selling both it and yourself short. Spend one day visiting the Uffizi Gallery, another wandering through the San Marco and San Lorenzo neighbourhoods, and the third crossing the Arno to explore the artisan’s neighbourhood of Oltrarno. After having eaten, drunk, shopped and seen more Renaissance masterpieces than you would previously have thought possible, it’s time to slow down the pace and move on to the enchanting walled city of Lucca for two days. Hire a bike and use pedal power for a leisurely exploration of its cobbled city streets and villa-studded surrounding countryside. On day six, pop into Pisa to scale its Leaning Tower, leaving after lunch to arrive at a Tuscan farmhouse in Chianti before dusk. Check-in for three nights, visiting wineries, taking a day trip to San Gimignano or Volterra, exploring sculpture gardens and feasting on modern Tuscan food during your stay. On day nine, head to gloriously Gothic Siena, home to museums, restaurants and churches that will supply a truly fabu-lous two-day finale to your trip.

Only the Best

CHIANTI

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The Heart of Tuscany

Bagni SanFilippo

San Galgano

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PienzaMontalcino

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Head to the sun-kissed centre of Tuscany to indulge in some of Italy’s best wine, ar-chitecture and scenery. Kick off in Siena, where you should gravitate towards Gothic glories such as the Museo Civico and Opera della Metropolitana di Siena. Nibble on the city’s famous sweet biscuits – preferably accompanied by a glass of local Vin Santo – and explore the atmospheric streets and piazzas of the incredibly intact, World Heritage–listed centro storico (historic centre).

After three days here, tear yourself away and head south through the stunning scen-ery of the Crete Senesi, visiting the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, and then continuing southeast to base yourself in or around the towns of Pienza or Montepul-ciano for three nights – there are plenty of impressive accommodation options to choose from, including chic boutique hotels, atmospheric agriturismi (farm or wine estates of-fering accommodation) and idyllic villa retreats. From your base, you’ll be able to explore the Val d’Orcia and Val di Chiana, visiting the wine country around Montalcino, listen-ing to Gregorian chants at the Abbazia di Sant’Antimo, wandering through the ruined Cistercian abbey of San Galgano, soaking in hot cascades at Bagni San Filippo and sampling the gastronomic products that this part of Tuscany is known for – Chianina beef, cinta senese (indigenous Tuscan pig), fresh pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese), fragrant olive oil and two of Italy’s greatest wines: Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. If you are travelling during summer, you may be lucky enough to witness a medieval-themed neighbourhood festival or attend a musical performance in an abbey, palazzo (mansion) or piazza.

End your sojourn in this idyllic area by looping back along scenic secondary roads to romantic San Gimignano, home to medieval tower houses, a lavishly frescoed duomo (cathedral) and a small but charming municipal museum and art gallery. Dine on deli-cate pasta dishes scented with locally grown saffron, and celebrate Tuscany’s manifold charms with a glass or two of the town’s golden-hued Vernaccia wine – life doesn’t get much better than this!

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Mix it up a bit by balancing well-known destinations with some intriguing off-the-beaten-track alternatives. Spend three days admiring the Renaissance splendour of Florence before branching out east into the little-visited Casentino region, home to the idyllically isolated Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna. Base yourself around the fortified hill town of Poppi for three days, sam-pling the area’s rustic and delicious cuisine, visiting the isolated medieval monasteries of Camaldoli and La Verna, wandering around the evocative ruins of the Castello di Romena and walking a few trails in the national park. Next, meander southeast to Sansepolcro, proud possessor of charming medieval churches, great restaurants and a museum showcasing works by the great Renaissance painter, Piero della Francesca.

Tear yourself away after two nights and continue to your final destination, the Val di Chiana, where you can spend a few days eating, drinking and sightseeing your way around the valley. While here, pop into the provincial capital, Arezzo, where locals out-number tourists by a healthy margin and where churches are the highlight – don’t miss the Cappella Bacci, Pieve di Santa Maria and duomo, and be sure to follow your church visits with a passeggiata (evening stroll) along glamorous Corso Italia.

A number of nearby medieval hilltop towns are also well worth visiting – Castiglion Fiorentino and Lucignano are extremely pretty, but both pale in comparison with Cortona, which deserves a half-day visit at the very least. Be sure to walk up the steep cobbled streets to its Fortezza Medicea, and also check out the collections at the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca and the Museo Diocesano.

When your time runs out, consider heading south towards Rome on the A1 autostra-da, stopping to visit the stunning cathedral at Orvieto en route to admire Luca Signore-lli’s famous fresco cycle of The Last Judgment. Alternatively, head into the neighbouring region of Umbria to visit one of Italy’s most famous pilgrimage centres, Assisi, home to the Basilica di San Francesco, where Giotto’s extraordinary frescoes portraying the life of St Francis stun all beholders.

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Start your peregrination in Pisa, spending two days admiring the marble pulpits in the Baptistry and duomo, the paintings and sculpture in the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo and the exquisite exterior dec-oration of the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina. Conclude your visit at the Piazza dei Miracoli, home to that famous engineering project gone horribly wrong, the Leaning Tower. On day three, spend the morning paying homage to Italy’s famous Vespa scooter at the Museo Piaggio in Ponted-era before driving (or maybe scootering!) through gently rolling hills covered in olive groves and vineyards to hunt truffles and sleep in style at the gourmet destina-tion of San Miniato. From here, head to spectacularly sited Volterra in the Val di Cecina, where visits to alabaster ateliers and an extraordinary museum of Etrus-can art await. Spend two nights here and then finish your tour in the neighbouring province and city of Livorno, home to an atmospheric central market, the delectable seafood stew known as cacciucco and the world-famous Sassicaia wine.

The Maremma1 WEEK

To make the most of the great outdoors, head to the region’s south. Start in the little-visited but utterly delightful medieval town of Massa Marittima and spend a couple of days visiting its museums and sampling Maremmese food and wine in its rustic eateries. On day three, check out an archaeological dig, Etruscan tombs and an impressive museum at the ancient hilltop settlement of Vetulonia and stay in a local agriturismo for the night. From here, head down the coast to the wild and wonderful Parco Regionale della Maremma to walk, canoe, cycle or horse ride alongside the famous cowboys known as the butteri. End your journey inland amid the stun-ning surrounds of the Città del Tufa (City of the Tufa), where you should visit the towns of Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano. Here you can sample the local Morellino di Scansano wine at Società Agricola Terenzi; explore the amazing Etruscan necropolises at the Parco Archeologico ‘Città del Tufa’; and spend a day taking an 8km walk along the enigmatic sunken roads known as vie cave.

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