L I V I N G W E L L

Keeping upappearances nReplace your old cosmeticsto avoid future breakoutsand blemishes

BY KELLY FLATLEY

In setting out to purge your unwantedwares, the first alcoves you'll likelytarget are your bedroom wardrobe,

possibly the living room closet, and per-haps the kitchen cupboard — and all forgood reason.

But often overlooked in the spring-cleaning task is another nook - the medi-cine chest, filled with the products you'vecollected over the years that once prom-

ised to reveal hidden youthfulness andexpose your most dapper appearance.

Unlike other products stored in yourmedicine chest that come stamped withdefinitive expiration dates, our lessessential goods — running the gamutfrom mascara to moisturizer to lip balm— come without the same guidance.

However, there are some guidelinesthat should be followed.

PUT YOUR BEST FACE FORWARD

"Manufacturers typically make (cos-metic) products to last only a month totwo months, assuming that buyers aregoing to use them on a daily basis," saidDiana Dolling-Roff, general merchandisemanager at the cosmetic counter of Town

Photo by Michael Bocchier

& Country Apothecary in Ridgewood.Discard anything that's been in your

cabinet for much longer than twomonths. If it's gone untouched that longchances are it's not going to be used atall, said Dolling-Roff. "Often we tend tobuy more than we really need," she says."1 tell my customers to limit the numberof products they purchase because they']end up throwing half of them away."

While it's possible to curb yourimpulse to purchase in the future, theshelf-life of the cosmetics that already sitidly in your drawer can negatively impacyour personal health and appearance.

L I V I N G W E L L

BRUSHING UP

One way to avoid bacteria build-up isto clean brushes and sponges regularly,says Dolling-Roff. "With pressed powder,for example, excessive use of the applica-tor causes it to become spoiled," shesays. "Oil from your skin is passed ontothe applicator, which causes the oil tocontaminate the makeup. It's best toclean brushes on a regular basis."

Wash cosmetic brushes frequently,said Steven Snook, fragrances and cos-metics manager at Neiman Marcus inParamus. "They should be cleaned once aweek," he says. "I tell people not doing itis like not washing your hair for a week."

Although cleaner specifically madefor brushes is available, old-fashionedsoap and water will work just as well,says Dolling-Roff. Snook recommendsthe same. "The ingredients in thecleansers made for brushes often con-tain a little bit of alcohol, which can bedrying to the hair," he says. "Anythingyou'd use to wash your own hair, babyshampoo or regular shampoo, is fine."

If you use a sponge to apply makeup,Saida Baxt, M.D. of Baxt Cosmedical, a

practice focusing on cosmetic dermatol-ogy in Paramus, recommends washing itin a dishwasher on a sterilization cycle.

THE EYES HAVE IT

Aside from contamination from amakeup applicator, applying products byhand also creates an ideal setting forbacteria to thrive, both in the makeupand on the face. Perhaps most prone isthe area around the eyes.

"It's a high risk area for infection,"says Baxt. Unlike the rest of the face,which has a high level of circulation thatwards off infection, Baxt says, the eyearea is without the same safeguard.

While it's rare for the face to developa rash or reaction from bacteria, eyesare much more likely to be affected.Using a finger to apply product aroundthe eye, such as moisturizer, greatlyincreases that risk. "Most of the time it'spink eye, which usually comes fromsomewhere else, and gets into the make-up," says Snook. He notes that at thatpoint, all eye makeup needs to bethrown out, to avoid recontamination.

To avoid a serious eye infection all

together, Dolling-Roff suggests using asterile applicator, such as a Q-Tip or cot-ton pad, to apply eye makeup.

In plumping eyelashes with mascara,Snook advises against pumping thewand. "Never pump the wand," he says."It pushes air into the mascara, whichcan push bacteria into the tube."

Baxt says it's best to replace mascaraand other eye makeup every six months,unless, of course, any irritation From aproduct occurs before then.

KEEP YOUR LIPS SEALED

More cream-based cosmetics thatdon't require applicators, like lipstickand lip balm, can also be cleaned tokeep sanitary and wearable for aslong as possible.

Dolling-Roff says wiping the tipof the lipstick or lip balm itself with asterile cotton pad, dabbed with rubbingalcohol is effective.

Keeping lipstick and lip balm sealedwill preserve their shelf life. However,when applying, be aware of open cuts orfever blisters, Baxt cautions. Be sure to

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toss any product that may come incontact with open sores.

Cream-based foundations will typicallyshow a telltale sign when they are due tobe discarded. If it appears separated, likeoil and water, it's time to replace it.Rebecca Baxt, M.D., also of BaxtCosmedical, suggests that if you pour thebottle and liquid shows at first, it's bestto get rid of it.

"Many of these products don't have anexpiration date," she says, "but I wouldsay if it's been a year, throw it away."

CHEMICAL REACTIONS

And, with the warmer months soonapproaching, Rebecca Baxt stresses theimportance of using sunscreen properly,within a particular time frame. "If you'vehad sunscreen for more than a year, itneeds to be thrown out," she says."The active ingredients begin to decom-pose, which increases your likelihoodof sunburn. The chemicals are just nolonger stable."

"The chemicals don't necessarily gobad," says Saida Baxt, "but there's lessefficacy and a false sense of security ifyou're using sunscreen that's dated.A whole bottle should be used every sea-son, and it should be applied frequently

Photo by Michael Bocchieri

and aggressively."In preserving all products, a few rules

apply to all. "Keep everything in a cool,dry place," says Rebecca Baxt. "Keepthem out of heat, refrigeration."

Though refrigerating products mayseem like a trendy method to keep themfrom spoiling, it is often not recom-mended. "It may harm some productsor change their molecular structure,"says Snook.

Cos Medical NJ

Saida Baxt, MD, FAAD

Rebecca Baxt, MD, FAAD• Diplomates American Board of DermatologySpecializing in:• Botox (FDA Approved)• Facial Consultation Skin Care• Intense Pulsed/Light/Photorejuvenation• Collagen/Cosmoderm• Smoothbeam for acne & fine lines

Visit us at www.cosmedical.com

351 Evelyn Street

Paramus, NJ 07652

201.265-1300800.848.3010 Tool Free