lisbon old town – a local 2017 guide · lisbon old town – a local 2017 guide alfama, ... rua de...
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Lisbon Oasis
Lisbon old town – a local 2017 guide
Alfama, Mouraria and São Vicente
Index:
NeighbourhoodsLisbon Oasis buildings
Things to doA few local tipsPlaces to eat
TransportationCuriosities
Maps of Lisbon
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Lisbon Oasis
Neighbourhoods
Alfama
Alfama is the cradle of Lisbon and it was here that the almohadas (sometimes referred to more generically as the moors - or even more generically as arabs) founded a smallsettlement, which grew and later became Lisbon, in around 1150.
Alfama means 'fountains' or ‘baths’ in Arabic and originally there were quite a few of those around – not anymore though. Alfama is made up of three of parishes of which oneis called São Miguel parish, which is where the Lisbon Oasis building is located.
Alfama is an intriguing and charming neighbourhood and it contains many important historical attractions as well as many Fado bars and restaurants.
Mouraria
The quarter known as Mouraria is one of the most traditional districts of Lisbon, which takes its name from the fact that D. Afonso Henriques, after the conquest of Lisbon, had confined the area for the moors (Muslims). This neighborhood was for the Moors who remained after the Christian reconquest hence the name Mouraria (Mouro is Portuguese for moor). The Jews instead were confined to quarters of the Castle.
Mouraria is also the cradle of the best known music genre from Portugal, Fado. Fado is believed to have been born in Rua de Capelao where the founding mother of fado, Maria Severa Onofriana, sang the new kind of music for the first
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Lisbon Oasis
time around 1840 (she sadly passed away in 1846 only 26 years old).
The most famous fado singer of all times, Amalia Rodrigues, had a number of successes and the biggest of them all was called ‘Ai Mouraria’. Also the most famous fadosinger nowadays, Mariza (has appeared in David Lettermanshow amongst others), has a link to here as she grew up and started singing in Mouraria.
São Vicente
São Vicente, or more accurate, São Vicente de fora, is a parish in the municipality of Lisbon, which is home to the Church of Santa Engracia, which serves as the National Pantheon (mausoleum). It boarders to Alfama – which is thecradle of Lisbon – and is almost as old.
A major milestone date in Lisbon history is Sunday 1 November in 1755 when a combined earthquake, tsunami and fire (!) devastated the city. The fire was due to the fact that as it was a Sunday many candles were lid in churches which caused devastating fires as well. In Baixa and Chiadothe devastation was total whereas it was only limited in São Vicente.
São Vicente parish takes its name after the combined church and monastery of same name. It is of rich history and has still an antique touch to it. São Vicente is an intriguing and charming neighbourhood and it contains many important historical attractions as well as many viewpoints (miradouros) of Lisbon.
A major milestone date in Lisbon history is Sunday 1 November in 1755 when a combined earthquake, tsunami
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Lisbon Oasis
and fire (!) devastated the city. The fire was due to the fact that as it was a Sunday many candles were lid in churches which caused devastating fires as well. In Baixa and Chiadothe devastation was total whereas it was only partial in Alfama.
Lisbon Oasis buildings
Alfama building
The Alfama building of Lisbon Oasis is located at Beco da Bicha 7 and 9 as well as Beco do Almotacé 1, in São Miguelparish, which is part of the neighbourhood known as Alfama.
Alfama as seen from the viewpoint Portas do sol.
This so-called 'pre-pombalino' building dates back to before the earthquake of 1755, and possibly, according to the Lisbon town hall, to around 1720. The building underwent complete refurbishment - only the outer walls remained, everything else was redone from scratch - in 2009.
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Lisbon Oasis
Mouraria building
The building is located at Rua Joao do Outeiro 55 and according to historians at the Lisbon town hall, the building dates back to the 1690’s – which makes it very old even for Lisbon standards. The building was done up complete in 2009/2010.
Castelo Sao Jorge and Mouraria seen from Bairro Alto.
Given the location and age of the bulding it has most likely been built and habitated by Jesuits (centuries after the moors lived there).
Sao Vicente building
The Sao Vicente building of Lisbon Oasis is located in São Vicente parish on the boarder to the neighbourhood known as Alfama.
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Lisbon Oasis
São Vicente Monastery from Portas do sol.
It is known that there has been a building on this location forcenturies although it is not known when the current building was actually constructed. However, the building underwent complete refurbishment - only the outer walls remained, everything else was redone from scratch - in 2007. (In 2017 the São Vicente building is being expanded – re-opening scheduled to late September 2017).
Things to do in Lisbon Old Town
The buildings of Lisbon Oasis are all located in Lisbon Old Town and due to your central location you are close to manytourist sites – all of the ones mentioned here are easily reachable by foot.
Saint George Caste
São Jorge Castle is a Moorish castle that occupies a commanding position overlooking the city of Lisbon and beyond to the Serra da Arrabida, which is situated some 40 kilometres to the south of Lisbon. The strongly-fortified citadel, which, in its present configuration, dates from medieval times, is located atop the highest hill in the historic
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Lisbon Oasis
centre of the city. The castle is one of the main historical and touristic sites of Lisbon.
Although the first fortifications on current location of São Jorge Castle are known to be no older than the second century BC, archaeological research has shown that humans have occupied the site since the sixth century BC, and possibly earlier. The hill was employed in early times byindigenous Celtic tribes, and others, probably Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians, have also left their cultural footprints there. Afterwards, Roman, Suebic, Visigothic, and Moorish settlers lived where the castle now stands.
When you leave the building walk up Rua da Regueira and continue uphill until you get to the tram line where you turn left. From there you will find signs leading you to the castle. It costs a few euros to get in but in return you will get a splendid view of Lisbon (including Alfama) - and of course see the castle from within. The entrance to the São Jorge Castle is around 1 km away.
São Vicente Monastery and church
The São Vicente monastery and church, is well worth a visit.The Church or Monastery of São Vicente de for means 'Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls' and is from the 17th century. It is one of the most important mannerist buildings in the country and also the burial site of most Portuguese Kings of the House of Braganza. The original Monastery of São Vicente de Fora was founded around 1147 by the first Portuguese King, Afonso Henriques, for theAugustinian Order. The Monastery, built in Romanesque style outside the city walls, was one of the most important monastic foundations in mediaeval Portugal. Access to the church is free whereas there is an entrance fee to enter the monastery and its museum.
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Lisbon Oasis
Tram line 28
The tram line 28 departs from Martim Moniz, goes up the Avenue called Almirante Reis, and then heads uphill to Graca (where you can get off and walk to various view points). Just on the ‘boarder’ between Alfama and Graca, bythe São Vicente Church and monastery, you can get of to see São Vicente and the most famous fleamarket of Lisbon,the Feira da Ladra. Feira da ladra takes place every Saturday and Tuesday from early morning to late afternoon (no official opening hours!). It then goes downhill towards Alfama and passes by at Rua Escolas Gerais.
The tram then continues through the narrow streets of Alfama where you could also get off and enjoy the view for instance at Largo das portas do sol. It then heads down to the city centre, Baixa, where you can get off again and enjoy Praca do Commercio and the shopping (pedestrian) street of Rua Augusta.
After Baixa the tram heads uphill again, this time to Chiado. Again, you could get off and enjoy Largo de Camoes or sip coffee next to the statute of the Portuguese writer Fernando Pessoa. The tram continues westward towards the neighbourhood of Bairro Alto and later to São Bento where it passes by the Portuguese Parliament.
If you are in the Mouraria building the nearest stop of the tram line 28 is Martim Moniz around 200 metres away from your flat. If you are in the Sao Vicente or Alfama buildings the nearest stop is on Rua Escolas Gerais. This stop is just 100 metres from Sao Vicente building and around 300 metres from Alfama building.
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Lisbon Oasis
Please be aware that this is a very popular activity and that there can be a long queue – the earlier you take the tram line 28, the better!
Baixa
Baixa, downtown Lisbon, also called ‘Baixa Pombalina’ as it was built by order of the Marquis of Pombal, after the earthquake of 1755. Baixa was completely destroyed by thecombined earthquake, tsunami and fire of 1 November 1755and rebuilt in the years that followed. Up until 1755 Baixa had had narrow winding streets as Mouraria or Alfama, but as you will see it was reconstructed with neatly laid-out straight regular streets. Baixa is now a shopping district andalso home to many banks.
Praça do Comércio
Praça do Comércio (‘Commerce or Trade Square’) is located in Baixa in downtown Lisbon. It is situated by the Tagus river and on the middle of the square you can see a statute of of King José who ruled Portugal between 1750 and 1777 so he was the king when the earthquake stroke in1755.
Another king had less luck here, namely Carlos I, the second last King of Portugal who was murdered on the square on 1 February 1908. Shortly after in 1910 Portugal became a republic – Portugal has hence just celebrated the 100 year anniversary of the republic.
Linking the shopping street Rua Augusta with Praça do Comércio you will see the imposing triunfal arch of Rua Augusta.
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Lisbon Oasis
At the top of the arch you can see a sculpture representing glory and value being crowned. Below that, you can see sculptures of Nuno Alvares Pereira (an aristocrat and warrior famous for the battle at Batalha), Viriato (a lusitan who fought the Romans around the time of year 0), Vasco da Gama (the discoverer) and the Marquis de Pombal (famous for the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755).
Martim Moniz
Martim Moniz is a vibrant square with arty fountains and serves as a hub for busses, metro and trams. As Mouraria, also the name of Martim Moniz is connected to the conquest of Lisbon from the Moors. Legend has it that the King D. Afonso Henriques had laid siege to the city, helped by many Crusaders who passed through here en route to the Holy Land. A servant to the king, Martim Moniz, faced the Moors that came to repel the Christian and managed to keep the door open for the Christians but at the cost of his own life. The king wanted to honour the bravery of Martim Moniz named the square after him and put a bust of the hero in a stone niche, which still stands today near the square of Martim Moniz.
Alfama Lastly, Alfama is a sight in itself – possibly the best preserved Kasbah / Medina in Europe today with its narrow and winding streets and a way of living that hasn’t changed for decades. Alfama has numerous churches worth visiting including the Santo Estêvão, São Miguel and last but not least the combined monastery and church of São Vicente de Fora. Neither should you miss the beautiful views of
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Alfama and surroundings; from the viewpoints Portas do Soland Santa Luzia.
A few local tips
Firstly, tipping is included in your bill. While you can of course add a tip, it is not expected!
Senhora da Monte; Instead of spending 7 Euros to see the view of Lisbon from Castelo Sao Jorge, you can go to Senhora da Monte viewpoint. The view is even better, it is free, but there is no castle to see (but the castlewalls of Castelo Sao Jorge are not that exiting either honestly!).
Pollux cafeteria; Instead of waiting in queue for ages to go up the Santa Justa Lift (and spending a few euros), then go to the cafeteria of the mini-mall called Pollux. There are entrances to Pollux from Rua Madalena 263 and Rua Fanqueiros 276. Take the elevator to 8th floor and then walk up to last/9th floor. Have a cup of coffee on the terrace while you enjoy the view. A ´meia-de-leite´ (coffee with milk) will set you back merely 1 Euro. (as of January 2017 this terrace was closed due to restauration!).
Pastel de natas; Instead of queuing up for ages for a ´pastelde natas´ (which is often considered a tourist must eat in Lisbon) at Pasteis de Belem in Belem, then try them at the ´Manteigaria´ (the ´buttershop´!) at Rua do Loreto 2 (by Largo de Camoes). They are arguably as good as the famous ones from Pasteis de Belem!
Tram; There used to be 20+ lines of trams in Lisbon but onlyfive (lines 12, 15, 18, 25 and 28) are still operational. The most famous is line 28 and therefore there are often long queues and often you will have to let several trams pass by before you get to board (the earlier you take it the better –
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the first departs from Martim Moniz at 5.45 on weekdays). Alternatively, take another line, for instance line 12 which passes by the same interesting bits in Alfama as line 28). See tram map at the end of this local guide.
Take the local ferries across the Tagus river rather than the much more expensive tourist trips (which in fairness last longer!). Cacilhas/Almada are nice options for half-days trips . Timetable and destinations here:http://www.rodotejo.pt/
Places to eat
You will find a wide variety of food in Lisbon from all parts ofthe world.
Regarding Portuguese food, dried cod fish, bacalhau, and other seafood or some spicy chicken, piri-piri, is probably allyou have heard about beforehand. But it is more varied thanthat and there are now some innovative Portuguese chefs and dishes to sample in Lisbon.
Apart from that Lisbon is also a good city for eating inexpensively Chinese, Indian, Middle East, African, etc.
If prices are 10 euro and above per main plate in a restaurant - then you find yourself in a relatively expensive place. There are often two columns of prices on the menus. The cheaper price is for a half plate of food which is usually enough for one person. In Fado restaurants never pay for the Fado, only for the food (which however is more expensive than other places of course).
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Lisbon Oasis
Some places of recommendations
For breakfast and snacks;
Pastelaria Alfama Doce – close to Alfama building. Cheap, good and friendly. Rua da Regueira 39.
Café (changes name regularly!) on Largo do Terreirinho 35 – close to Mouraria building. Inexpensive, frequented by many locals, simple, low key.
Cafe do Electrico – close to Sao Vicente building. Cheap and quite local touch. Rua do Salvador 39.
For lunches and dinners
Santo Antonio de Alfama – 12-18 euros for main dishes – good steak house and Portuguese cuisine with classy cinema-related interior - Beco de São Miguel 7. Phone: 218881328. Quite close to Alfama building.
Zé de Mouraria. Traditional Portuguese cuisine – still only few tourists. One portion is enough for two persons – prices around 16 euros a person. R. João do Outeiro 24, 1100 Lisboa. Phone: 21 886 5436. ONLY LUNCH (12 – 16 o´clock)! Very close to Mouraria building, on the same street.
Carvoaria – 8 to 18 euros for main dishes – very recommendable Portuguese steak house – Rua Maria Andrade 6B. (Slightly out of map - go up 700 metres of Rua das Palmas and the street will come to your right). Phone: 21 814 75 55.
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Cervejaria Ramiro – most renowned shellfish restaurant of Lisbon but also a bit pricey - Avenida Almirante Reis 1-H . 218 851 024
Casanova – 8-15 euros for main dishes – one of the best pizzas and Italian food in Lisbon - Cais da Pedra a Bica do Sapato, Armazem B, loja 7. Phone: 218 877 532 (but reservation is not possible!).
You can also consider going to the food court known as ´Mercado da Ribeira´across from Cais do Sodré station. There you will have around 20 different restaurants to choose from. My personal favorite there is ´Marlene Vieira´ which normally have menus with wine, main dish and dessert for 12 Euros.
Best value for money´Entra´ - 19 Euros for fixed four course meal (appetizer, fish,meat, dessert) – very good value for money. Very popular with locals and untouristy (for now!). A bit out of town in Beato neighbourhood. Closed on Sundays. Reserve beforehand otherwise you risk queueing. Rua do Açucar, 80- 1950-009 Lisboa. Phone: 212 417 014http://www.entra.pt/entra-em-contacto/
VegetarianRestaurante Psi – 8- 14 Euros for main dishes – one of the best vegetarian restaurantes. Alameda Santo António dos Capuchos, 1150 Lisboa. Closed on sundays. Restaurante-psi.com. Phone; 21 359 0573.
High-endRestaurante Lisboéte, does not have typical Portuguese food but delicious French/Alsatian dishes. It is high end withprices for main dishes starting at 18 Euros but it is of very good quality. Calçada Marquês de Abrantes, nº 94.
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Lisbon Oasis
tel. (+351) 213 950 953. Www.lisboete.pt e-mail: [email protected]
If cheap is your thing….
´Filippa´ - portuguese cuisine – menu 5-7 Euros. Rua Joao Penha 11.
´Low-Cost come´ - a low cost cafeteria type chain with portuguese cuisin. A meal will cost you 5-6 Euros. No reservation possible. Three different locations; Rua Braamcamp 9 , Rua Morais Soares 74, Rua Sousa Martins, 14 B.
BarsWhich bars are popular and/or recommendable can change overnight but here are some that are good and have been around for a while...:
Topo Bar. Rooftop terrace and covered restaurant. Close to Mouraria building. http://topo-lisboa.pt/
Damas Bar. ´Hipster´ bar, concert hall and restaurant. Relatively close to Sao Vicente building. facebook.com/DAMASLISBOA/
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Transportation
TaxiThe metre in taxis start at, at least 2.5 Euros and on top of that you pay at least 1.60 Euros for luggage going in the trunk (independently of how much you fill it up and how many pieces of luggage you have). There is also a 0.80 Euro surcharge in case you book your taxi by phone beforehand. Always check that the metre is on when taking a taxi!
Metro
The Lisbon metro is relatively cheap with prices starting at 1.50 cents for a one-way ticket plus a one-time 0.50 fee for the actual paper ticket which can be recharged and reused. A normal fare ticket will bring you to all but three stations – (please see map) & runs quite regularly (the longest wait should be around 10 minutes).
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Lisbon Oasis
It is recommendable to take a ´Viva Viagem´ card and use the mode ‘Zapping’ which works as a credit that you can use on any kind of transport (tram, metro, train, ferry). You can charge the card with credit from 2 to 15 Euros and buy it in any metro station. (You can also opt for other modes, for instance, to buy single trips instead of having a credit).
http://www.metrolisboa.pt/eng/
The status and legality of Uber changes constantly but when it is there it is a recommendable and good alternative to taxis.
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Lisbon Oasis
Crime
Crime is rare in Lisbon and the city is in fact one of the safest EU cities. However, you should be careful not to leave purses or bags unattended or carelessly hanging on chairs. Furthermore, on public transport, the tram 28 in particular, you should be aware of pick pockets.
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Lisbon Oasis
Curiosities
Birdwatching
If you by any chance are a birdwatcher, then there are goodchances of seeing rose-ringed Parakeets in the garden of hospital Dona Estefania on Rua Jacinta Marto.
Flamingos are rarely seen in Lisbon, but if you go across the Vasco da Gama bridge, then there is a 90% chance year round, of seeing Flamingos right as you reach the other river side.
You can see more about birds in Lisbon here;http://lisbon.avesdeportugal.info/lista.html
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