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“I have alwaysfound taxidrivers to bethe canaries insocieties’mines.”

CULTURAL CAVIAR

Rule Reversalby Theodore Dalrymple

September 02, 2017

Multiple Pages

Recently twoParisian taxi driversof African origin havetold me that theywished to return toAfrica, and hadconcrete plansactually to do so.Several of their

friends had similar plans. I asked them why, and theiranswer surprised me.

“To be free,” they said.

Back to Africa from Europe for freedom’s sake? Here was astrange reversal indeed. Was not Africa par excellence thecontinent of rampant corruption, everyday oppression, andbizarre dictatorships? Well, yes and no: Such summariesrarely do justice to the complexity of human realities.

I have my own theory as to why Africa’s “first dance offreedom,” as Lord Byron called it and said he longed tosee, was not exactly happy: I believe that the main harm ofEuropean colonialism in Africa, especially in its laterphases, in the years before independence, was primarilypsychological.

The great Belgian, later Belgo-Australian, sinologist PierreRyckmans (better known as SimonLeys) traveled through what wasthen the Belgian Congo in the1950s, a few years beforeindependence. He was a veryyoung man (his uncle had been themost distinguished governor-general of the colony), but he already showed the brillianceand acuity of his perception when he wrote in an article fora Belgian publication:

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Schematically, one could say that [the Africans’] ambitionpushes them simultaneously to reject and becomeEurope. (When I speak of Europe, I mean the Europe thatthey know, Europe as it is established in Africa.) Theywant to be like the people who humiliate them; they wantto be like those whom they want to go away…. Thesetightly bound men cannot plan their escape other than bycopying the only models of freedom and greatness thatare presented to them.

When I worked briefly as a junior doctor in Rhodesia, as itthen still was, under a settler or colonial regime, I noticedsomething else whose significance it took me years toappreciate, being far less an observer and thinker thanLeys.

Black doctors were paid the same as white doctors, unlikein neighboring South Africa; but while I lived like a king onmy salary, the black doctors on the same salary lived inpenury and near-squalor. Why was that?

The answer was really rather obvious, though it took me along time to realize it. While I had only myself to consider,the black doctors, being at the very peak of the Africanpyramid as far as employment was concerned, had toshare their salary with their extended family and others: Itwas a profound social obligation for them to do so andwas, in fact, morally attractive.

This, of course, did not prevent them from wishing asindividuals to live at the European standard; but this wasimpossible so long as the colonial regime lasted. Once thiselite had its hand on power, however, it had both themeans and opportunity to outdo that standard to assuageits sense of humiliation, but the social obligations to lookafter the extended family and others remained. There wasno legitimate way to satisfy these voracious demandsother than by gaining and keeping control of politicalpower over the country, which is why the struggle for suchcontrol was often so ruthless and bloody. When, inaddition, the model of power they had in their minds wasthat of the colonial ruler, who were in effect salariedphilosopher-kings whose prestige was maintained by a lotof ceremonial flimflam (white helmets with egret feathers,splendid uniforms, and the like), it was hardly surprisingthat the first dance of freedom was actually like a bestiaryof bizarre rulers.

The first dance is now nearly over, and if Africa has notsettled down to be a realm of political maturity andfreedom exactly, there are many fewer bizarre dictators onthe continent than there once were. If it is rarely advisableto oppose the political incumbent too openly or fiercely,there is nothing like the quasi-totalitarianism tempered byincompetence that was once so prevalent.

Besides, there is more to freedom than the ability withoutretribution to denounce the power, important as this abilityis. And as the Parisian taxi drivers described their lives,Tweet

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they did not in theleast feel free, ratherhemmed in andalmost straitjacketedby regulations,obligation, andtaxation. Andalthough France hasa reputation forbeing anoverregulated state,

it is not really very different from any other Westerncountry. And, paradoxically perhaps, markets, in the senseof places where you actually go to buy things, are muchmore important in France than in some more market-orientated economies that I could mention.

The lack of freedom in their daily existence of which theParisian taxi drivers complained is, I think, the same lack offreedom that many other people increasingly feel in so-called free societies. And this is so whether or not theregulations and obligations that hem them in or straitjacketthem make us richer or poorer, safer or less safe, healthieror less healthy. Freedom is freedom, and not another thing.

Of course, it was the capital that they had managed toamass in France—no doubt slight by European standards,but great by African—that would allow the Parisian taxidrivers to feel free in the Africa to which they would return,much freer than they now felt. They had already built theirhouses and started their businesses, such as cinemas, taxiservices, and general stores in towns that did not havethem. They would deal in local products and perhaps evenexport them. And in mounting their enterprises, they wouldbe far freer than any person in a Western country. Perhapsthey would have to pay off an official or two, but that done,they would suffer little bureaucratic interference. As forpolitical power, it did not interest them within quite widelimits. What they demanded of politics wasnoninterference.

In short, their decision was well considered and not in theslightest absurd. They would, of course, keep their Frenchpassports just in case the conditions of Africa’s first danceof freedom recurred, so that they would always have abolt-hole; but I nevertheless found what they had to say ofinterest. I have always found taxi drivers to be the canariesin societies’ mines.

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• Reply •

Maxim • 7 days ago

Reminiscent of the Romans who went to live by choiceamong the Germanic tribes. 8△ ▽

• Reply •

Specialist Ed • 7 days ago> Maxim

Precisely. This is not all that different aphenomenon than what many Mexicans do in theUnited States. I can't tell you how many Mexicans Iknow in the trades that are paid decently in the USand own vast ranches down in Mexico. Most arecontent to live in merger homes in questionableneighborhoods, in the US, and of course, send theirchildren to school here, While planning to moveback to Mexico and retire like kings at 40. Theyhave no real ties to the US, other than milking thecash cow.

29△ ▽

• Reply •

Marcos_Brazil • 7 days ago

> Specialist Ed

Exactly. Like blind men, they cant see andenjoy the culture. 5△ ▽

• Reply •

Burgess Shale • 7 days ago

> Specialist Ed

A common phenomenon among the'imports' in all those countries where theycan prosper. Unfortunately we who residehere don't get to benefit from our 'wealth'. 9△ ▽

• Reply •

DrEvil • 6 days ago

> Burgess Shale

I wouldn't exactly view working assome Aztec leaf blower boy or cabdriver as prospering. Sure, they can save their dollars andwhen they go back home due to thevalue of the dollar in relation to thepeso live well by native standards buthey are not suddenly becoming rich.△ ▽

• Reply •

ClarenceDeBarrows • 6 days ago

> Specialist Ed

As one born and raised in California a bunchof years ago I find it particularly disgusting. 8△ ▽

• Reply •

potkas7 • 6 days ago

> ClarenceDeBarrows

Was it the act of being born inCalifornia that made it disgusting, oris there some larger point you'd liketo try and make?△ ▽

• Reply •

hfh1 • 6 days ago> Specialist Ed

And squeezing it dry for the natives. 1△ ▽

DrEvil • 6 days ago> Specialist Ed

The good areas of Mexico are just asexpensive as the good areas of the US. These people do live like peons in the USand send most of the money back anddeposited in a bank. They are then able to

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• Reply •

deposited in a bank. They are then able tobuild a house in perhaps a better town thanthe one donkey town they came from. But no one is living in some hacienda like akang.If that were possible then you'd haveAmericans living in some hacienda there, atleast as another 2nd home. A hundred acres of scrubland there or evenin Texas is worth nothing. You can buy thatin NYS for a $1k an acre and it's better land. 1△ ▽

• Reply •

Specialist Ed • 5 days ago

> DrEvil

There are thousands, if not millions,of Americans with second homes inMexico. "King" may have been anoverstatement. How's, "living verycomfortably, on a ranch in Mexico byage 40?" This is not conjecture, Iknow guys in the trades that ownranches in Mexico, that are workinguntil they're paid off and retiringthere, very shortly. It's not just thecost of the property, and your moneygoes much further South of theboarder with respect to property, it'sthe cost of living as well. 2△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 2 days ago> DrEvil

I do know from personal experiencethat, a few decades ago, at least, itwas possible to live very well in areasof Latin America on an income thatwould have been near the povertyline in the U.S. And Americanproperty values are now grosslyinflated.△ ▽

• Reply •

WarPigg • 5 days ago> Specialist Ed

This was also very common among theFilipinos in the US Navy...retire after 20, goand live in Olongapo City like kings 2△ ▽

• Reply •

Childress • 7 days ago> Maxim

By the 4th century, the Roman Empire had becomean oppressive and bureaucratic nightmare state.

Examples: Constantine introduced laws whichmade certain occupations (e.g., butchers, bakers)heriditary. He also issued a decree under which'coloni' were forbidden to leave their land,essentially converting them into serfs, and layingthe foundations for the entire social structure ofmedieval Europe.

There's a passage of Ammianus Marcellinus inwhich the late-imperial historian converses with aromanised Greek who had lived among the Huns.The Greek found their society less regimented, andblessedly free of lawyers.

12△ ▽

• Reply •

DrEvil • 6 days ago> Childress

You can do that in the US. Just find somereal Podunk type area and move there andsee how much you like it.△ ▽

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• Reply •

DrEvil • 6 days ago> Maxim

Yeah, in some Romanised area where they builtbaths, aqueducts for fresh water and otheramenities essential to civilised living. 1△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 6 days ago> DrEvil

I believe, in the worst days under Diocletian,there were some who fled to the hinterlands,and lived as tribesmen.△ ▽

• Reply •

Roffles Lowell • 2 days ago

> Maxim

Wow, I had no idea you guys wereover here talking about the BenedictOption....!△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 2 days ago

> Roffles Lowell

???△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 7 days ago

Oh, also, first! (and second). 2△ ▽

• Reply •

David Wright • 7 days ago> Maxim

Nobody does that anymore. 3△ ▽

• Reply •

Burgess Shale • 7 days ago

> David Wright

It's so yesterday. 2△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 6 days ago> David Wright

Oh, come on! I saw someone do it last week.Apparently you are affirming that the "Best"people don't do it anymore, which suppliesan excellent incentive for doing it; to piss offthe "Best" people.△ ▽

• Reply •

Ignatius J Reilly • 7 days ago

How Rousseauian: Noble Savage learns that 'freedom' isjust another word for nothing left to lose -- and that thegrass is greener where the green is longer! And above all,hold on to that Euro passport.

How is it that American blacks cannot partake? Seemssometimes that America is the world's 'chump' capital:Everyone who elbows their way in gets to keep that tickethome should the ride get rough. Even these so-called'dreamers' if given a free pass (among other freebies) willbe able to take their Social Security pensions south of theborder when they retire and live there in a 'freedom' notavailable to gringos.

What we require is a dose of Equality. How about this for astarter: Just One Passport. Either commit to the wholenine yards or get the hell out!

34△ ▽

• Reply •

Dr. Rieux, aka Deplorable Duck • 7 days ago

> Ignatius JReilly

How about this for a starter: Just get the hell out! 30△ ▽

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• Reply •

Callahan • 7 days ago

> Dr. Rieux, aka Deplorable Duck

I haven't traveled to Mexico in a while eventhough my wifey and others go to Caboevery now and then. I refuse to go. Question ....does Mexico allow us Gringos topurchase land in Mexico or is land /homeownership still on a contrived long termlease? And as far as these DACA "dreamers" areconcerned, why is Little Paulie Ryanwringing his hands over the possibilityTrump may ditch it? The previous postermakes a great point. Why do these lawbreakers get dual status if we cannot evenpurchase land in Mexico ? (Not that I wantto )

Tell the little dreambots to choose whichcountry they want to represent . I am sickand damn tired of seeing these people wavethe Mexican flag within our borders . Get thehell back to Mexico if that's how you feel !!

26△ ▽

• Reply •

ClarenceDeBarrows • 6 days ago

> Callahan

Cabo ain't Cabo no more. It's, gag,Newport Beach south.△ ▽

• Reply •

hfh1 • 6 days ago> Callahan

My impression is, and may not beaccurate, that America, until fairlyrecently, did not allow dualcitizenship. My guess is that Izrulbroke the ice. 1△ ▽

• Reply •

Ignatius J Reilly • 6 days ago

> hfh1

Yep. A Supreme Court decision in the'70s. 1△ ▽

• Reply •

Doodah • 5 days ago> Callahan

I was going to visit Mexico until Iheard it was chock full of Mexicans!△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 2 days ago> Doodah

So is Texaco. 1△ ▽

• Reply •

Maxim • 2 days ago> Callahan

Exactly; apparently, America is theonly country in the world that isn'tallowed to control its borders. O.K.,Europe as well.△ ▽

• Reply •

Callahan • 7 days ago

> Dr. Rieux, aka Deplorable Duck

+1000 5△ ▽

• Reply •

Burgess Shale • 7 days ago

> Dr. Rieux, aka DeplorableDuck

How about, No you're not welcome here ? 7△ ▽

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