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1. IntroductionThough there are many different techniques to splicethe textile yarn, the pneumatic splicing is widely useddue to its performance and versatility. Thus, it becomesa wise choice for the production of knot-free yarn.The pneumatic splicing principles like untwisting andsplicing may look very simple at first sight, but it isquite complex in actual due to more number of vari-ables namely related to fiber, yarn, and splicing de-vice[1]. As this study is mainly focusing on the splicingof spun yarns, weightage has given only to splicingdevice-related parameters. The splicing quality is beingevaluated by a parameter called Retained SpliceStrength (RSS) and Retained Splice Appearance (RSA).RSS is defined as the ratio of breaking strength of thespliced yarn expressed as the percentage of the break-ing strength of parent yarn [2,3,5]. The optimization ofsplice performance needs to be carried out accordingto yarn counts and fiber type. The untwisting andtwisting are the two important steps in the pneumaticsplicing [4]. Hence both untwisting and splicing param-eters are equally important. But the untwisting perfor-mance can be observed through naked eye when thereis no splicing air pressure applied on the splicer [6].

Improving Productivity of Winding by Optimization ofSplicing Parameter

Sujit Gulhane*, Pratik Shirsath, Prafull Kolte & Madhuri KakdeCenter for Textile Functions MPSTME, SVKM's NMIMS

AbstractWorldwide 75% of all staple fiber yarns are produced in ring spinning mills. In the winding process, ringbobbins are converted into larger packages suitable for subsequent processes such as Weaving, Knittingor Yarn Dyeing. During the winding process, the yarn is passed through optical yarn clearers to removeall objectionable faults. After removing objectionable faults, broken ends of the yarn are joined by thepneumatic splicer to produce knot free continuous length yarn package. These splices are nearly similarto parent yarn with respect to physical and dimensional properties. A large number of splices is carried outduring winding, and failure of these splices causes a reduction in productivity of the winding as well asthe subsequent process. The present study aims at reduction in splice failure rate to improve the produc-tivity of the winding machine. The splice failure rate is depending upon the air pressure and air flow timeof the splicing unit. In this study, the attempt has also been made to find out the effect of splicingparameters like splicing air pressure and splicing time on the quality of splice and splice failure rate.

KeywordsWinding Productivity, Splicing, Air Pressure, Splicing Time, Splice Appearance

Thus, the optimization of untwisting parameters can bedone at the required untwisting level by visual exami-nation. Though there are many studies conducted pre-viously by considering untwisting and splicing param-eters, there is scope for optimization of splicing param-eters for each count of yarn to reduce the splice fail-ure rate, air consumption and achieve the best qualityof spliced yarn. In this project, the effect of the pneu-matic splicer variables viz. splicing air pressure andsplicing time was studied to find out its effect on splicefailure rate and splice yarn quality on winding.

2. Material and methodsThe 100 % cotton yarn of 11 Ne was prepared byusing with 24 mm staple length, 4.11 micronaier, 0.78Maturity Index, 22.4 g/tex strength with 5.6 % trash.The Reiter K45 ring frame running with a spindle speedof 19000 and Twist per Inch of 24 was set to produce60 Ne yarn. These ring yarn bobbins are wound at aspeed of 1500 m/min into a 2.5 kg conical package onSchlafhorostAutoconer 338, attached with LoepfeTk940 F yarn clearers. The pneumatic splicer of DZ1type is used for the study, the opening pressure of 4bar is set to untwist the tail ends of the broken yarn.Whereas the re-twisting pressure of 4, 4.5, 5 bar andre-twisting time of 180, 200, 220 milliseconds are setat each re-twisting pressure. The splices were col-lected at each trail to find out their effects on splicestrength and yarn quality. The splice failure rate is

*All correspondences shall be addressed to,Sujit Gulhane,Center for Textile Functions MPSTME,SVKM's NMIMS, ShirpurEmail : sujitgulhane.iitd@gmail.com

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noted from the control panel on the winding machine.The parent yarns were also tested for their tensileproperties keeping the same testing parameters.

3. Results and discussion3.1 Effect of Air Pressure & Splicing Time onSpliced Strength and Failure RateThe observed splice failure rate, retained splice strength,and splice appearance at each trails of the splicingpressure and splicing time discusses below. Table 3.1shows the effect of splicing pressure of 5 bar at splic-ing time of 180 ms, 200 ms and 220 ms.

Table no 3.1 : Effect of 5 bar pressure at differentsplicing time on spliced yarn quality

for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

Splicing time 180 ms 200 ms 220 ms

Splices 59 64 61

Splice strengthcN 490 470 490

Splice failure rate per100 splices 0 2 1

RSS 96% 92% 96%

The above table shows that at 180 ms & 220ms splic-ing time shows retained spliced strength is 96% and 92% at 200ms splicing time. The splice strength dependsupon the fiber orientation and cohesion between thefibers at the splice. At 180 ms splicing time fibers aremore oriented and at 220 ms splicing time fiber aretightly arranged to have more cohesive bonding. At200 msfiber getting tightly arranged but they are lessoriented along the axis of the yarn results into lowerretained splice strength. Whereas the splice failure rateis zero at 180 ms splice time and it is 2 %, 1 % at 200ms and 220 ms respectively. Thus it is recommendedthat, set splicing unit at 180 ms time to achieve betterRSS, reduced splice failure rate and low air consump-tion.

Table no 3.2 : Effect of 4.5 bar pressure at differentsplicing time on spliced yarn quality

for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

Splicing time 180 ms 200 ms 220 ms

splices 63 61 59

Splice strengthcN 440 460 485

Splice failure rateper 100 splices 3 2 0

RSS 86% 90% 95%

The above table shows that at 220ms splicing timegives the maximum RSS of 95 % and minimum RSSof 86 % at 180ms splicing time. It is determined thatas the splicing time increased the splicing strength isalso increased. This can be attributed due to highertwisting and intermingling of the fibers with more timefor pneumatic splicing. Along the rise in splice strength,the chances of splice failure are reduced, which canbe observed from the above table shows that the splicefailure rate at 180 ms, 200 ms, and 220 ms are 3, 2 and0 respectively.

Table no 3.3 : Effect of 4 bar pressure at differentsplicing time on spliced yarn quality

for 11 Ne Ring Yarn

Splicing time 180 ms 200 ms 220 ms

splices 60 58 59

Splice strengthcN 440 460 470

Splice failure rate per100 spices 2 2 0

RSS 86% 90% 92%

The above table shows that at 220ms splicing timegives the maximum RSS of 92 % and minimum RSSof 86 % at 180ms splicing time. It is determined thatas the splicing time increased the splicing strength isalso increased. This can be attributed due to highertwisting and intermingling of the fibers with more timefor pneumatic splicing. Along the rise in splice strength,the chances of splice failure are reduced, which canbe observed from the above table shows that the splicefailure rate at 180 ms, 200 ms, and 220 ms are 2, 2 and0 respectively.

3.2 Effect of Air Pressure & Splicing Time onSpliced Yarn AppearanceThe appearance of the yarn and a spliced portion isvery important as it decides the quality of the yarn.Thus the yarn spliced portion needs to appear similarto that of parent yarn. In this study, the spliced yarnsamples were traced out manually at each experimen-tal trial. These splices were placed on the splice obser-vation board to study splice length, splice diameter,fiber orientation, and splice bulk. The image of theyarn splices at considered splicing parameters viz.splicing pressure and splicing time is given below.

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Figure 3.1 : Effect of air pressure & splicing time on11Ne spliced yarn appearance

Above figure, a, b and c shows the splices at 5, 4.5and 4 bar splicing pressure respectively. At each splic-ing pressure, the effect of splicing time on yarn ap-pearance was also shown. It is observed that the splic-ing pressure has more effect on splice appearancethan that of splicing time. At 5 bar splicing pressure,more compact and dense splices are formed as com-pared with 4.5 bar and 4 bar splicing pressure. Witha reduction in splicing pressure compactness of thesplices reduces. The splicing time has a very loweffect on yarn appearance at 5 bar splicing pressure,where has at 4.5 bar and 4 bar splicing pressure splic-ing time has more effect. The rise in splicing timeshows more compactness in the yarn due to more timefor application torsional force on the fibers at the splice.

4. ConclusionThe effect of splicing parameters viz., splicing timeand the splicing air pressure on the splice failure rate,retained splice strength and splice appearance wasobserved in the present study. To obtain a lower splicefailure rate and higher RSS splicing pressure and splic-ing time need to be set at an optimum level. The ap-pearance of the yarn is also affected by splicing pres-sure and splicing time. To get a massive change in thecompactness of the splice, splicing pressure should beoptimized, whereas to get fiber closer and confined tothe yarn splicing time should be optimized. The studyalso concludes that splice failure rate can be minimizedto the zero levels by optimizing splicing pressure andsplicing time.

5. Acknowledgement : The authors are grateful toDr. P.P.Raichurkar Associate Dean SVKM's NMIMSMPSTME CTF, Shirpur for continuous guidance andsupport.

6. References1. R. C. D. Kaushik and I. C. Sharma, Effect of Fiber/Yarn

Variables on Mechanical Properties of Spliced Yarn,

Textile Research Journal, Volume 57 (8), 1987. Pp. 490-494.

2. Jacek Rutkowski, Tenacity of Cotton Yarns Joinedduring the Rewinding Process, FIBERS & TEXTILES inEastern Europe, Vol. 19, No. 1(84), 2011. Pp. 34-36.

3. K. P. S. CHENG and H. L. I. LAM, Strength of Pneu-matic Spliced Polyester/Cotton Ring Spun Yarns, Tex-tile Research Journal, Vol. 70 (3), 2000. Pp.243-246.

4. H. L. I. LAM and K. P. S. CHENG, Pneumatic Splicing,Textile Asia, July 1997. Pp. 66-69.

5. A. R. Padmanabhan and V. Balakrishnan, A study onthe abrasion resistance of ring spun yarns, resume ofpapers 33rd joint technological conference, February1992, Mumbai. pp. 61-67

6. K. P. S. CHENG and H. L. I. Lam, Physical PropertiesOf Pneumatically Spliced Cotton Ring Spun Yarns,Textile Research Journal, Vol. 70 (12), 2000. Pp. 1053-1057

7. B. Jaouachi, M. Ben Hassen, and F. Sskli, Optimizationof The Behavior of Sized Wet Spliced Yarns, AUTEXResearch Journal, Vol. 9, No. 1, March 2009. Pp. 1-4.

8. R. C. D. kaushik, I. C. Sharma, and P. K. Hari, SomeStudies on Spliced Yarn, 27th Joint Technological Con-ference, Bombay, 1986. Pp. 92-99.

9. R. C. D. Kaushik I. C. Sharma, P. K. Hari and A. K.Sarkar, Performance of Spliced Yarn in Warping andWeaving, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 57, No. 11,1987.Pp. 670-673

10. Carwyn James Webb, Graham Thomas Waters, GuoPing Liu And Clive Thomas, The influence of yarncount on the splicing of simple continuous filamentsynthetic yarns, Textile Research Journal, volume-79,no-3, 2009, pp- 195-204.

11. K.R.Patil, Mr. Kulabhaskar Sing, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao,Effect of twist on yarn properties, International Journalon Textile Engineering and Process, Vol.3(1), 2017, 19 23.

12. V.D.Chaudhari, Prafull P. Kolte, A.D.Chaudhari, Effectof Card Delivery Speed on Ring Yarn Quality, Interna-tional Journal on Textile Engineering and Process,Vol.3(4), 2017, 13-18.

13. Bhushan Chaudhari, P.P.Kolte, A.M.Daberao, SanjayMhaske, Performance of Card and Comb Sliver BlendedYarn, International Journal on Textile Engineering andProcess, Vol.3(1), 2017, 30-35.

14. Gaurav Thakare, Tushar Shinde Sujit ShrikrushnaraoGulhane Pramod Raichurkar, Effect of Piecing Index inComber on Sliver and Yarn Quality, Spinning Textiles,Mar-Apr 2018, Page No 132-136.

15. Mayur Suryawanshi, Tushar Shinde SujitShrikrushnarao Gulhane, Rajendra Dhondinath Parsi,Pramod Raichurkar, Optimization of Drafting Parameterof Speed Frame For Better Yarn Quality, Spinning Tex-tiles, July-Aug 2018, Page No 04-12.

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1. IntroductionWarp yarns, weft yarns and fabrics on weaving ma-chines are subjected to various stresses not only duringthe machine operation, but also during its stoppage.These stresses are considered the most important pa-rameters affect the fabric formation [1]. If thesestresses exceeded a certain limit it will adversely influ-ence the quality of the woven fabrics and the weavingmachine efficiency. Warp yarns during a weaving cycleare exposed to cyclic tensile stresses, as well as it issubjected to inter yarn friction and to friction with metalby coming into contact with the machine parts such as,backrest roller, drop wires, harnesses frames, and reed,and during interlacing with filling yarns [2]. In general,tensile stresses acting on warp yarns differ from yarnto yarn, weaver beam to another and depending alsoon woven fabric structure. The variation of these ten-sile stresses may be attributed to the incorrect warp-ing, sizing and the effect of tension sensors on let-offroller and sometimes will be clearly in greige fabric.Uneven tensile stress acting on the individual warpyarns over the fabric width had a significant impact onthe produced fabric quality and the yarn crimp in bothwarp and weft directions [3-6].

The tensile stresses on the warp ends occurring duringweaving which can lead to yarn breaks, breakdowns,loss of quality and shutdowns have a significant influ-ence on productivity and profitability. Warp yarns break-

Measuring the Dynamic Tensile Stresses on WeavingMachines Using Strain Gauge: Instrumentation

Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally*Textile Engineering Department, Textile Research Division, National Research Centre

AbstractAn electronic measuring device and a data acquisition system were built - up to record, measure andanalyze the dynamic stresses on veaving machines during their operation. This measuring device composedof starin gauge, amplifier, measuring head, A to D converter and personal computer. Using this measudringdevice, tensile stresses on yarns and fabric and on the weaving machine parts as well can be measuredand analyzed accurately. Verification of this device was done by comparing it with the Rotschild Elecronicmeasuring device.

KeywordsTensile stresses, weaving machine, warp yarn tension, weft yarn tension, strain gauge, Wheatstone bridge.

age takes place as the result of high warp tension. Bycontrast, the low warp tension leads to warp yarn jam,and then its break. Besides, a very low warp tensionresults in the formation of an unclear shed. Finally, aclear shed on weaving machines is required to de-crease the problems associated with weft insertion [7].Nowadays, the electronic ROTSCHILD tensionmeteris commonly used in Egypt to measure warp and weftyarn tension on weaving machines. This device con-sists of a measuring head, an indicator apparatus andrecorder. The measuring head is the tensionmeter whichcomes into contact with the yarn to be measured. Itconsists of a metal cylinder on the outside, from oneend of which protrudes the centric measuring rod andthe two yarn guides. The measuring head is designedas a differential capacitor. A capacitor electrode isplaced in such a way as to be moved slightly by therunning yarn and cause thus capacity variations. In thisdevice the available measuring heads cover a totalmeasuring range of 1-200,000 grams [8].

In last few decades, an abundant number of researchworks regarding warp yarns, weft yarns and wovenfabrics characteristics have been conducted [9-25]. Butthe most of them concentrated on textile material char-acteristics rather than studying the dynamic stressesacting on it during their processing.

Understanding the dynamic tensile stresses acting onwarp and weft yarns during weaving is a fundamentalprinciple in order to perfectly set up the weavingmachines. Thus, this study is aimed to build - up anelectronic measuring device to measure and recorddynamic stresses influencing textile materials on weav-

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,Alsaid Ahmed AlmetwallyTextile Engineering Department, Textile Research Division, Na-tional Research Centre, Dokki, Cairo, Egypt.

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ing machines during their operation. This measuringdevice can also be used to measure the dynamic stresseson the weaving machine parts.

2. Materials and methodsThe built-up measuring device consists of the followingelements:2.1. Strain gauge and wheatstone bridgeStrain gauge is a variable resistor that deforms alongwith the material to which it is bonded when a forceor load is applied. The changes in electrical resistanceacross the strain gauge are so small that it requiresvery sensitive equipment. To measure this small changein resistance indirectly, a wheatstone bridge is used.

A wheatstone bridge registers the small change inresistance of the strain gauge as a voltage difference.As the resistance of the strain gauge increases due toan elongation, amount of voltage difference will alsoincrease. The wheatstone bridge in this study consistsof two known resistors of 1 KW each, two straingauges ( variable resistors ) of 120 W each, a 9 voltspower supply and a potentiometer of 200 W to set thebridge in a balance state after measuring. The twostrain gauges are cemented on both sides of a metalpiece, were necessary to eliminate the temperatureeffect.

2.2. DC AmplifierThe output voltage from the wheatstone bridge is verysmall and must be amplified. A DC amplifier is used toamplify the output current from the wheatstone bridgeup to 1000 times. The DC amplifier consists of a num-ber of resistors, diodes, capacitors, voltage regulatorsand ICs.

2.3. Analog to digital converter (A to D converter)The output from the DC amplifier is connected througha terminal panel to an analog to digital converter (A toD) board mounted in a personal computer. The A to Dconverter is used to convert the output signals from theDC amplifier from analog state to digital one.

In the course of this study DM-P076 analog to digitalconverter was used with the following specifications:

- Number of channels :8 single - ended - A / D device : A / D 574- Resolutions : 12 bits - Accuracy : 0.01 %

of reading- Conversion type : Successive approximation- Linearity : ± 1 bit - Input voltage : -5 V to + 5 V- Input current :

- 20 mA to + 20 mA - output voltage : 0 to 5 V- Input current : 0 to 100 mA - Setting time : 30 ms

2.4. Personal computerA personal computer of type Core I 5, 3.2 MHz wasused to display, store and manipulate the output data.Using a software C++ program, data that was ac-quired from data acquisition system are averaged andplotted. Figure 1 shows the wole bridge circuit and ageneral view of the measuring device is shown in fig-ure 2.

The foil strain gauge used in this study has the follow-ing specification:

- Measurable strain: 2 to 4 % - Gauge resistance : 120 W- Gauge tolerance: ± 0.05 % - Foil material :

copper nickel alloy- Fatigue life: >105 reversals - Gauge length : 8 mm- Gauge factor: 2.1 - Gauge width : 2 mm

- Temperature range: -30 C° to + 80 C°

The principle of operation of the strain gauge is basedon the fact that the resistance of an electrical conduc-tor changes with a ratio of SR / R is a stress appliedsuch that its length changes by a factor SL / L. WhereSR is the change in resistance from unstressed value,and SL is change in length from original unstressedlength. The change in resistance is brought about mainlyby the phisical size of the conductor changing and analteration of the conductivity of the material, due tochanges in the material structure.

Copper nickel alloy is commonly used in strain gaugeconstruction because the resistance change of the foilis virtually proportional to the applied strain i.e.,

Where, K is a constant known as a gauge factor, andE is the strain

SR-------- = K*E R

SR /Rthen, K = --------------

E SL

E =strain ------- L

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Figure 2.1: Strain gauge circuit for measurement ofdynamic stresses

Figure 2.2: General view of set-up measuring device

The change in resistance of the strain gauge can, there-fore, be utilized to measure strain accurately whenconnected to an appropriate measuring and indicatingcircuit e.g., strain gauge amplifier. Figure 2.3 shows ageneral view of a type of foil strain gauge which isused in this study.

Figure 2.3: A general view of a foil strain gauge

2.5. Instruction for mounting of strain gaugeIn order to obtain the best possible results from thestrain gauge, it is important to thoroughly prepare thegauge and the surface of the specimen to which thegauge is to be attached, prior to bonding with the rec-ommended adhesive.

2.5.1. Specimen surface preparationAn area larger than the installation should be cleared

of all paints, rust etc. and finally smoothed with a finegrade emery paper or fine sand blasting to provide asound bonding surface. The area should be degreasedwith solvent cleaner and finally neutralized with a weakdetergent solution. Tissues or lint free cloth should beused for this operation, wetting the surface and wipingoff the clean tissues or cloth until the final tissue usedis stain free.

Care must be taken not to wipe grease from a sur-rounding area onto the prepared area or to touch thesurface with finger. This final cleaning should take placeimmediately prior to installation of the gauge.

2.5.2. Adhesion and strain gauge installationBy sticking a short length of adhesive tape along theupper surface of the gauge it may be picked up froma flat clean surface. Holding both ends of the tape,orientate the gauge in the desired location and stick theend of the tape furthermost from the tags to the speci-men. Bend the other end of the tape on itself therebyexposing the back of the gauge.

Adhesive of type RD "quick - set epoxy " is recom-mended. When using this adhesive type, the back ofthe gauge is coated with adhesive and gently pushdown into position. Wiping excess adhesive to the twooutside edges of the gauge, to leave a thin film ofadhesive between gauge and sample. Stick the wholelength of tape to hold the gauge in position. Care shouldbe taken that there is even layer of adhesive and no airbubbles are left under the grid. Cover the gauge withcellophane or polyethylene etc., and apply a light weightor clamp as required until adhesive has set. Removetape by slowly and very carefully pulling it back overitself, starting at the end furthermost from the tags, anddo not pull upwards.

The comparison trial between set-up measuring deviceand the ROTSCHILD measuring device was conductedon SULZER projectile weaving machine, model TW11with the following particulars:- Loom speed : 180 ppm- Max. reed width : 160 cm- No. of harness frames: 6- Fabric structure: plain 1/1- No. of ends / inch: 68- No. of picks / inch: 50

3. Results and discussionThe results and discussion of this study are confined toverify the working of the set-up measuring device by

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comparing it with a standard electronic measuringdevice, i.e. ROTSCHILD tensiometer.

3.1. Verification of built-up measuring deviceBefore using the built-up measuring device in the ex-perimental work, it is expedient to compare it with astandard one. An electronic ROTSCHILD tensiometerwas used to verify the set-up measuring device bycarrying out a comparison between them. Prior to theactual trial, both measuring devices were calibrated.This experiment was conducted using 50/50 cotton /polyester blended filling yarn with count 30/2 Ne.

On the weaving machine, ROTSCHILD tensiometer isplaced in the rear of the set-up measuring device asshown figure 3.1. Thirty-nine warp yarns were threadedin the measuring head of the set-up device, and one ofwhich was inserted in the head of ROTSCHILD de-vice. The output voltage (mV) from the set-up mea-suring device was averaged and then divided by 39 toevaluate the mean voltage for each end. By using thecalibration curves the individual readings of warp ten-sion (cN/end) for each device were derived.

A t-test was used to assess the significant differencebetween the average values of warp tension from bothdevices according to the following formula:

Where, y1= mean warp tension from ROTSCHILD. y2= mean warp tension from set-up measur-ing device. n1 , n2 = number of observations.Sp2 is the pooled variance calculated from the relation:

Where s12 and s22 are the two individual sample vari-ances.To define whether to refuse the null hypothesis; Ho:U

1= U

2 we will compare t0 to the t distribution with

n1+n

2-2 degree of freedom. If | t0 | > t

a/2,n1+n2-2, we will

refuse Ho and deduce that the mean warp tension ofthe two devices are different. Table 3.1 summarizesthe average values of warp tension acquired from bothdevices and the statistical results of t-test are given intable 3.2. From these results we can conclude that t0

| < t distribution at 95 % confidence. This means thatwe can accept the null hypothesis and it is deducedthat the difference between the two devices is insig-nificant, so the set-up measuring device is very accu-rate and reliable. Figure 3.2 shows the tension traceacquired from the two devices and this figure revealsthat the difference between the two devices is veryslight which supports the findings of the statistical test.Table 3.1: Summery of tension data acquired fromROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices.

ROTSCHILD Device Set-up Device

No. of observations 715 715

Mean warp tension 31.51912 30.04434

Max. warp tension 44.248 47.4123

Standard deviation 7.079337 7.308291

Variance 50.11701 53.41111

Table 3.2: Summery of t-test for ROTCHILD and Set-upmeasuring devices.

Pooled variance 51.76406

Difference hypothesis 0

Degree of freedom 1428

t0 0.000111

tdistriburion 1.961625

Figure 3.1: Comparison experiment betweenROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices.

Figure 3.2: Comparison between tension traces acquiredfrom ROTSCHILD and Set-up measuring devices.

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4. ConclusionsA useful set-up measuring device with a data acquisi-tion system was built-up and successfully utilized. Thismeasuring device can be used to measure and analyzedifferent dynamic stresses on the textile materials onthe weaving machines. Stresses on the weaving ma-chine parts can be evaluated using this measuring deviceas well.

This measuring device was compared with a standardwarp tensing measuring apparatus, i.e. ROTSCHILDmeasuring apparatus. The statistical analysis revealedthat there is no significant difference between this deviceand the Rotschild Electronic device with respect dy-namic warp tension.

The application of this measuring device is to measureand record the dynamic warp tension, longitudinal andtraverse fabric tension during the weaving machineoperation is the subject of the following parts of theseseries of papers.

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9. Alsaid . A. Almetwally and Mona. M. Salem.Comparison between Mechanical Properties ofFabrics Woven from Compact and Ring SpunYarns. AUTEX Research Journal, 10 (1), March2010, 35-40.

10. Yasser. M. Eid, Ahmed Alsalmawy, and Alsaid.A. Almetwally. Performance of Woven FabricsContaining Spandex. Textile Asia, volume XL1 No.5, PP 39-42, May 2010

11. Adel Elhadidy and Alsaid A.Almetwally. Subjec-tive Evaluation of Garment. Journal of Textile Asia,41(8), August 2010, 28-32.

12. M. M. Mourad, Ahmed El-Salmawy, and AlsaidAhmed Almetwally. Core spun yarn and the se-cret behind its popular appeal. Textile Asia, 2011,November, 42, 41-43.

13. Mohamed A. Ramadan, Ghada A. El sayed andAlsaid Ahmed Almetwally. Treatment of cottonfabrics using microwave and subsequent dyeing.Textile Asia, April, 2012.

14. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad andAbeer Ebraheem Eldsoky Mohammed. A Studyof Yarn Breaks on Warping Machine. Life Sci-ence Journal, 10(1), 2013, 108-114.

15. N. A. Ibrahima,, A. Amr, B.M. Eid, A. A.Almetwally, M. M. Mourad. Functional finishesof stretch cotton fabrics. Journal of CarbohydratePolymers, 98, 2013, 1603- 1609.

16. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally and M.M. Mourad. Ef-fects of spandex drawing ratio and weave struc-ture on the physical properties of cotton/spandexwoven fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Insti-tute, 105 (3), 2014, 235-245.

17. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, H. F. Idrees and AliAli Hebeish. Predecting the Tensile Properies ofcotton/ spandex core-spun yarns using ArtificialNeural networks and regression models. The Jour-nal of the Textile Institute, 2014, 105(11), 1221-1229

18. M. A. Saad, M. M. sabry and Alsaid AhmedAlmetwally. A study of Some Fabric and FiberParameters that Affect Air Filters Efficiency. Jour-nal of textile Asia, Vol. 45, No. 4, May, 2014, 38-41.

19. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad , AliAli Hebeish and Mohamed A. Ramadan. Com-parison Between Physical Properties of Ring-SpunYarn and Compact Yarns Spun from DifferentPneumatic Compacting systems. Indian Journalof Fibers and Textile Research, 40, March 2015,43-50.

20. Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally, M. M. Mourad and AliAli Hebeish. Some handle Properties of Cottonfabrics woven from Ring Spun Yarn and CompactYarns Spun from Different Pneumatic Compact-ing Systems. Textile Association journal, 76 (4),November-December, 222-228, 2015.

21. Mohamed A. Ramadan, Alsaid Ahmed Almetwallyand Safinaz S. Mohamed. Effect of microwavetreatment and weave structure on cotton fabricperformance. Journal of Textile Asia, 46(8), Oc-tober 2015, 34-41.

22. Nabil A Ibrahim, Basma M Eid, Heba M Khalil,Alsaid Ahmed Almetwally. A new approach fordurable multifunctional coating of PET fabric.Applied Surface Science, 448, 2018, 95-103.

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1 IntroductionWeaving is a method of producing textile by usingthreads or yarns. The yarn was spun into threads andthen was woven in looms to make cloth. The entireprocess of spinning was done with the help of a spin-ning wheel. The concept of weaving was originatedduring the Palaeolithic era, 27000 years ago. In India,weaving was discovered during the Indus Valley Civi-lization. Indian Weaving Industry provides mass em-ployment. It is due to the abundant supply of rawmaterial and cheap labour.

Handloom weaving consists of the art of producingsaris, dhotis, shawls, bed sheets and so on. As per thereports there are over 38,00,000 Indian weaving com-panies. During the ancient period Indian textiles werevery significant. Some of the popular Indian weavingcompanies are: Arvind Mills, Vardhaman Spinning, JaiIndia Weaving Mills Private Limited and so on. Weav-ing in India is done through handlooms. These textilesmay be woven from cotton, wool or silk. India's oldestfabric is a traditional cotton weave called Khadi. Khadiwas used for 1

Andhra Pradesh is renowned for its handloom. Biharand Chhattisgarh is known for Tussar silk. Gujarat isknown for Patola print. Jammu and Kashmir is popularfor pure silk, crepe, Chiffon saris and Pashmina shawls.Karnataka is popular for Mulberry silk. The Mysoresilk saris which are made out of pure zari borders arevery popular in the country. The mostr traditional sarisof Karnataka are the Mokalmuru saris ofChitradurgaand and the Ilkal saris of Bagalkot. WestBengal is known for Baluchari and Kantha work sariswhich is made up of silk and cotton. Tamil Nadu isknown for Chettinad and Coimbatore cottons. Orissais known for Sambalpuri and Bomkai handlooms.

1.1 Hand looms of KarnatakaHandloom weaving has been in Karnataka since veryancient times.The handloom industry of Karnataka isthe largest cottage industry. In terms of magnitudeofemployment, it is next only to agriculture. Therefore,it occupies an important place in the development ofthe state by catering to the needs of economicallyweaker sections of the society. As per the thirdhandloom census conducted by NCAER (NationalCouncil of Applied Economic Research). The mainhighlights of the research with regard to Karnatakastate were

The total number of handloom worker households is37,680. Out of which 33,854 households are in rural

The Challenges and Issues :Faced by the Weavers of Belgaum

Dr. Ashalatha K*, Mr. Rakhesh Shetty & Mr. S. SaravananJustice K S Hegde Institute of Management

AbstractThe handloom industry is a traditional cottage industry in our country played an important role for thegrowth of the economy. Once upon a time, India was also a largest exporter of textiles in the country. Dueto the introduction of various technologies in the field of textile industry, the concept of weaving isdeclining rapidly. The objective of the study is to find out the financial, health and marketing problemswhich are faced by the weavers in Belgaum.This research is really important because it can be used bythe government to know whether the government schemes are really reaching out to the people, so thatthey can come up with some other programs which the weavers are really in need and can get the benefitsfrom it.This research is an exploratory research and was conducted in 9 taluksof Belgaum. The study mainlyfocused on the variables like age, health issues financial aspect and also the various government schemes. While analysing the data the results showed that weaving is done by the people within the age groupof 35 - 50 years. This indicates that the current younger generation are moving out of weaving at present.

KeywordsBelgaumweavers, Financial issues, Government schemes, Health issues, Women weavers.

*All the correspondences shall be addressed to,Dr. Ashalatha K,Professor, Justice K S Hegde Institute of Management,Nitte 574110

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area and remaining i.e 3826 households are in urbanarea.

◆ Out of total handloom worker households (37,608),842 households belong to Scheduled Cast, 1144households belong to Scheduled tribes, 32,468households belong to other backward caste and3226 households are others.

◆ Average earning of Handloom worker householdis Rs.24,897/- per year.

◆ With regard to source of loan taken by handloomhouseholds, 4.6% from money lender, 39.8% frommaster weaver, 2.2% from friends Relatives,27.3% from Co-operative Societies, 19.7% fromCommercial banks, 4.1% from self Help Groups,0.45 from traders and 1.9% from others.

1.2 Karnataka Handloom development Corporation(KHDC)According to the 20-point programme of central gov-ernment, to uplift the handloom weavers working out-side the co-operative sector, KHDC was establishedon October 2nd, 1975. One of the important featuresof KHDC is it has developed 'Intensive HandloomDevelopment Project' at different places in the state.At present there are 12 intensive Handloom Develop-ment scheme centres.

The purposes of this scheme are:1. To free the weavers from the clutches of master

weavers.2. To meet the yarn requirements of weavers3. To improve the quality of weaving through training4. To arrange for marketing of handloom products.

2. Literature Review(Sultana 2016)weavers continue to commit suicide dueto personal reasons or work-related issues. Accordingto the survey conducted with 392 weavers, 31 percentof the weavers are earning less than Rs.5000, 68 per-cent are earning between Rs.5000 to Rs.10000 andonly 1 percent of the weavers are earning aboveRs.10000 per month. There are many long-term pro-grams for the development of handloom industry, butthere is no much impact of these programs. It is dueto lack of awareness about the various programs thatare made available for the weavers.

(Satyanarayana 2016) weavers are facing major healthproblems such as eyesightweakness, back pain, kneepain and joint pain. According to the research con-ducted with 200 respondents at Nellore district, 94

respondents are facing back pain, 66 respondents arefacing eyesight weakness, 24 respondents are facingjoin pain and 16 respondents are not any facing kneepain. Due to inadequate marketing there has been aperiodical accumulation of stocks, which has resultedin unemployment among the weavers.

(Pradesh & Tanusree 2015) the production system ismostly under the control of a particular entrepreneurialclass master weaver or Gaddidarwho possess capitaland power. Younger generations are interested in power-loom business. Those handloom weavers, who havenot possessed sufficient capital for installing power-loom, become poor to poorer. Indebtedness becomes apersistent crisis of the weavers. The weavers do notrealise that products manufactured using power loomare cheaper than handloom products. The weavers donot sustain their life with the handloom. With this de-clining trend in the handloom sector the problems ofunemployment will aggravate.

(Thayumanavar & Shanmugapriya 2017) In Konguregion there is more number of male weavers betweenthe age group of 31-35 years. Very Few incomes areearned by these weavers. Handloom saris are popularin India. But there is lack of promotion of saris. De-mand of the product is more only during festival time.The demand will be more only when it is offered at adiscounted rate. The procurement of raw material is achallenging one and most of the weavers procure rawmaterial from Co-operative society. At present manyeducated people are moving to other sectors. Due tothis the handloom sectors are in a decline stage.

(Chutia & Bhuyan 2014) Women weavers of Assamfind it difficult to secure loan due to the non-availabilityof collateral security. They are dependent on their familymembers to for finance. Out of 140 respondents, 84percent of the respondents believe that lack of accessto raw materials is one of the main reasons for nottaking weaving as their profession. 82 percent of therespondents feel that family responsibilities comes firstand this is the domestic problem faced by them

2.1 Research ObjectivesThe research titled "The challenges and issues facedby weavers of Belgaum" will have the following objec-tives-1. To identify the financial problems faced by the

weavers.2. To study whether the weavers are aware of the

various schemes and programmes provided by the

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government for them.3. To understand thehealth related issues faced by

the weavers.4. To know whether the weavers face any techno-

logical issues due to the shift from handloom sec-tor to power loom sector.

5. To find out the marketing problems faced by theweavers.

2.2 HypothesisIn order to give a proper direction to the study, properhypothesis were developed after a detailed literaturereview-1. Weavers face financial issues and health related

issues.2. Weavers are not aware of the various schemes

and programmes provided by the government.3. Weavers face marketing problems.

2.3 MethodologyThe scholars suggested that the best way to collect thedata is by adopting quantitative research methods. Thismethod gives us deeper understanding and closure toparticipant's natural habits. The primary data was col-lected by contacting the weavers from Belgaum dis-trict. The sample size was 20 groups.The data wascollected by contacting 2 to 3 group ofweavers from 9taluks.

The data was analyzed with the help of SPSS statis-tical package by using correlation test and frequencydistribution. The in-depth interviews were interpretedaccordingly.

2.4 LimitationThe research has the following limitations-◆ There are more than 4000 weavers in Belgaum,

but our sample size was limited to 20 group ofweavers. Each weaver group's opinion is differ-ent from others. Hence,it is difficult to come to adetailed conclusion regarding the "The challengesand issues faced by weavers of Belgaum".

◆ Due to the lack of time available to conduct theresearch, we were not able to meetall the weav-ers personally. Due to this we cannot identify theexact problems faced by the weavers.

◆ On an average we spent around 15 - 20 minutesto contact each respondent, due to this few weav-ers were not ready for the survey as they werebusy with their work.

◆ Language was also the major limitation faced byus while contacting the weavers.

3.ResultsThe study mainly focuses on the 5 variables namelyhealth issues, financial issues, technological issues,marketing issues, awareness about the various govern-ment schemes that has been provided for the weaversand the challenges faced by women weavers..

3.1 Financial problems of the weaversDuring the study an attempt was made to understandthe financial problems faced by the weavers. The tableno. 2.1 shows details regarding the financial problemsfaced by them.

H 1: Weavers face financial issues and health issuesThe first hypothesis of the study attempts to measurethe financial issues faced by the weavers. The hypoth-esis has been tested using correlation.

Table 3.1 Financial Issues and health issues

Health issues Financial issuesHealth issues Pearson 1 .368

CorrelationSig. (2-tailed) .110N 20 20

Financial issues Pearson 368 1CorrelationSig. (2-tailed) .110N 20 20

Source: Field Data

Health issues and financial issues are positively corre-lated. The significance level is more than 0.05. Hence,we accept the null hypothesis.

It takes 2 days to produce a woollen blanket. The costof raw materials is Rs. 600 and other expense is Rs.700. The selling price is Rs. 1500 each. Hence, aweaver can earn a profit of Rs. 200 each per woollenblanket. They can earn only after they produce theproduct.

The common health issues faced by the weavers areeye pain and back pain. This is because weavers willhave to focus more when they are weaving and if theydivert their mind, they end up messing up with theproduct, due to this they give a lot of strain for theireyes while weaving. The process of weaving is usuallydone in a sitting posture and it is a time consumingprocess. Hence, they end up getting a back pain.

3.1.1 Awareness of various government schemes andprogrammesDuring the study an attempt was made to understand

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the various government schemes and programmes of-fered for the weavers. The table no. 2.2 shows detailsregarding awareness of various government schemesand programs.

H 2: Weavers are not aware of the variousschemes and programmes provided by the gov-ernment.The second hypothesis of the study attempts to mea-sure the awareness of government schemes. The hy-pothesis has been tested using correlation.

Table 3.2(a) Government Schemes

Age GovernmentScheme

Age Pearson Correlation 1 .410Sig. (2-tailed) .072N 20 20

Government Pearson Correlation .410 1 Scheme Sig. (2-tailed) .072

N 20 20

Source: Field Data

There is a positive correlation between age and gov-ernment scheme. The significance level is more than0.05. Hence, we reject the null hypothesis and acceptthe alternative hypothesis. By looking at the table above,it is found out that the weavers are aware of theschemes that have been offered to them by the gov-ernment.

Table 3.2(b) Government Schemes

Government Scheme TotalHousing Health Scholarship HousingLoan Insurance Loan

Age30-50 8 5 3 16Above 50 0 2 2 4Total 8 7 5 20

Source: Field Data

The government provides housing loan of Rs. 2 lakhfor each family of the weaver. The weavers have topay a premium of Rs. 40 for health insurance and theycan claim up to Rs. 60000 as coverage. A scholarshipamount of Rs. 1200 each will be given for 2 childrenof the weavers. This scholarship amount will be pro-vided only for the students who are studying in SSLC,PUC, Under Graduation and Post Graduation.

3.2 Marketing problems faced by the weaversDuring the study an attempt was made to understandthe marketing problems faced by the weavers. Thetable no. 2.3 shows details regarding the marketingproblems faced by them.

H3: Weavers face marketing problemsThe third hypothesis has been tested using correlation.

Table 3.3 Marketing Issues

Health Issues MarketingHealth Issues Pearson

Correlation 1 .182Sig. (2-tailed) .444N 20 20

Marketing PearsonCorrelation .182 1Sig. (2-tailed) .444N 20 20

Source: Field Data

There is a positive correlation between health issuesand marketing issues faced by the weavers. The sig-nificance level is greater than 0.05. Hence, we acceptthe null hypothesis and reject the alternative hypoth-esis.

Women usually prefer to sell their products to KarnatakaHandloom Society rather than personal selling. This isbecause they feel that it is safe and can also recovertheir money. But they do not possess marketing skills,hence, they prefer to under the guidance of the corpo-ration. Very few weavers sell their products in differ-ent states on their own. Some other weavers sell theirproduct to the co-operative society.

3.3 Technological issues - Shift from handloom sec-tor to power loom sectorDuring the study an attempt was made to understandthe technological issues faced by the weavers due tothe shift from handloom sector to power loom sector.The table no. 2.4 shows details regarding the techno-logical issues faced by them.

Table 3.4 Technological Issues

Frequency PercentValid Handloom 5 25.0

Power Loom 15 75.0Total 20 100.0

Source: Field Data

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According to the survey, out of 20 group respondents,75 percent of the respondents would prefer to shiftfrom handloom to power loom. They feel that workingin a power loom is much better than handloom. This isbecause less time is consumed while using power loomand due to this they can also increase their output andearn more returns and will also not face more healthissues.

But only 25 percent of the respondents are not readyto shift to power loom. This is because they are notready for the change and they are more comfortableto produce the output manually.

However, majority of the weavers will not face anytechnological issues due to the shift from handloomsector to power loom sector. Hence, many weaverswould be satisfied while they are working in a powerloom.

3.3.1.Challenges of the Women WeaversWorking class of women usually face difficulties dueto their day to day functioning of the events. Duringthe study an attempt was made to understand thechallenges faced by the weavers in their work life aswell as family life. The table no. 2.5 shows detailsregarding the challenges faced by them. It has alsobeen linked with the type of product they produce.This is due to the time taken to produce different prod-ucts are not similar.

Table no. 3.5 Challenges

Personal Issue TotalNot Able Unable to Unable toto Meet Concentrate on Spend TimeDaily Sheep Farming with theirExpenses Children

Type of WoollenProduct blanket 6 4 6 16

Towel 2 1 1 4Total 8 5 7 20

Source: Field Data

According to the report, out of 20 grouprespondents6 respondents who produce woollen blankets are notable to meet their daily expenses and spend time withtheir children. This is because the time consumed forthe production of woollen blankets is more while com-pared to the production of towel and due to this theytake more time in recovering their returns.

Some weavers other than concentrating only on weav-

ing do other works as well for their living. They findit difficult to concentrate on both weaving and sheepfarming. Women weavers have lack of time to spendwith their family as they are busy with their work. Asthe weavers earn money after selling the product, thereis a time lag in receiving payments from the custom-ers. Due to this they find it difficult to purchase rawmaterials for their next production.

4. DiscussionsThere are 4594 weavers in Belgaum out of which1990 perform weaving of wool and 2604 performweaving through cotton. There are 10 taluks in Belgaumand 9 taluks earn their living through weaving. The 9taluks consists of the following number of weavers:Hukkeri - 173, Chikkodi - 444, Athani - 539, Raibag -79, Ramdurg - 1544, Savadatti - 721, Parasgad - 358,Gokak - 354, Belgaum - 382. The purpose of the studywas to find out the issues and challenges faced by theweavers of the Belgaum. The various factors that wehave considered for our study are health issues, finan-cial issues, technological issues, marketing issues andawareness about the various government schemes thathas been provided for the weavers.

1. Known that weavers suffer from eye pain andback pain. This is because they put in a lot ofstrain on themselves and pressurise their eyesresulting in eye pain. Weaving is time consumingand requires lot of physical activities. Hence theyend up with back pain by sitting in the sameposture for a lot time.As many of the weavers sell their productsthrough corporations, they will have to sell theproduct at a lower than market price. Hence,hypothesis 1 will be rejected.

2. The weavers are aware of the various govern-ment schemes that have been offered to them.The schemes provided by the government includesa housing loan of Rs. 2 Lakh for the family ofeach weaver, health insurance cover up to Rs.60000 by paying a premium of Rs. 40 and ascholarship amount of Rs. 1200 will be give for 2children of the weavers. This scholarship amountwill be provided only for the students who arestudying in SSLC, PUC, Under Graduation andPost Graduation. Hence, hypothesis 2 will berejected.

3. The weavers face problem in marketing their prod-uct. Some weavers go to other state and sell theirproduct. But the problem here is due to this theirtravelling expenses will be increased and the sell-

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ing price of the product will also increase. Otherweavers sell their product through co-operativesociety. This is because they do not possessmarketing skills and hence prefer to sell throughcorporative society. Hence, we accept the nullhypothesis.

4. Majority of the respondents have no problem inshifting from handloom to power loom sector. Thisis because producing on a power loom is a timesaving process and they can also increase theiroutput and increase their sales. But very fewrespondents are not ready to go for a change andshift to power loom.

5. The challenges faced by the weavers is due tothe lack of time to concentrate only on weaving.They do sheep farming as well for their living.Hence, they find it difficult to concentrate on bothweaving and sheep farming. Women weavershave lack of time to spend with their family asthey are busy with their work. As the weaversearn money after selling the product, there is atime lag in receiving payments from the custom-ers. Due to this they find it difficult to purchaseraw materials for their next production.

5. ConclusionThis research has helped to find out the major issuesand challenges faced by the weavers of Belgaum.Weavers do not face health issues as they are follow-ing safety measures while producing the output. As theweavers sell their products through corporation, thereis an surety that they will get their returns. Other thanweaving they also perform other task through whichthey can earn income. Hence, the weavers do not facehealth issues and financial issues

Majority of the weavers still follow the same traditionalform of weaving which is done using handlooms. Fewweavers have failed to realise that the process ofhandloom is a tedious task and requires lot of time andare spending their time to do only one product. As perthe survey, the weavers do not have any problem ifthey shift their operations from handloom to powerloom, this shows that they are ready for the changeand have no problem relating to technological issues.But the reason why they are not able to shift to powerloom is the lack of money which they possess withthemselves to buy the power loom.

There are several villages in Belgaum where the womenare indulged in sheep farming and they also sell thewool from the sheep. This wool will be spun into yarnand in turn it will be used for the purpose of weaving.

The weavers are also not able to spend quality timewith their family. Despite putting die hard effort toearn their living, they are not reaping the benefits ofthe effort which has been put forth by them.

The younger generations are getting educated. Theycan make use of this opportunity to do something fortheir society.Hence, they can think about whatinnovativeness can be introduced in weaving, whichwill be beneficial for the weavers and will also maketheir life better.

Bibliography1. Chutia, L.J. & Bhuyan, A., Rural women weav-

ers ' of Assam?: Artistic skills and entrepreneurialissues. , 5(3), pp.296-311, 2014.

2. Pradesh, U. & Tanusree, S., A Study of the PresentSituation of the Traditional Handloom Weaversof. International Research Journal of Social Sci-ences, 4(3), pp.48-53, 2015.

3. Satyanarayana, M.,. Operational Problems ofHandloom Weavers in Andhra Pradesh State - AStudy of SPSR Nellore District. , 3(10), pp.61-67,2016

4. Sultana, N., Role of Comprehensive Programmesin Development of Sircilla Powerloom Industry inTelangana State. SUMEDHA Journal of Man-agement, 5(2016), pp.44-58, 2016.

5. Thayumanavar, B. & Shanmugapriya, T., ASTUDY ON ISSUES AND CHALLENGES OFHANDLOOM WEAVER IN KONGU REGIONOF TAMILNADU. International Journal ofMultidisciplinary Research and Modern Education(IJMRME), 3(1), pp.340-345, 2017.

AnnexureName:1. Age

◆ Less than 20◆ 20 to 35◆ More than 35

2. Marital Status◆ Married◆ Unmarried

3. Type of weaving◆ Woollen◆ Cotton

4. Time period of doing this job◆ Less than 1 year◆ 1 year to 3 years◆ 3 years to 5 years◆ More than 5 years

5. Wages earned (monthly)◆ Less than 2000◆ 2000 to 3000

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◆ 3000 to 5000◆ More than 5000

6. Schemes provided by the government◆ Life insurance◆ Housing loan◆ Scholarship for children◆ Health insurance

7. Health issues faced by the weavers◆ Eye pain◆ Back pain◆ Chest pain◆ None of the above

8. Type of marketing technique followed◆ Personal selling◆ Karnataka Handloom Development Corpora-

tion◆ Through societies

9. Work shift timings◆ Less than 8 hour shift◆ 8 hours shift◆ 10 hours shift◆ OT

10. Do you receive incentives?◆ Yes◆ No

11. If yes, which are they?◆ Provident Fund

◆ ESI◆ Others

12. Type of product produced◆ Woollen clothes◆ Rugs◆ Cotton sari◆ Carpet◆ Towel

13. According to you which is the better form ofweaving?

◆ Handloom◆ Power loom

14. What are the challenges that you face in yourpersonal life

◆ Limited time to spend with the family◆ Sheep farming◆ Others

15. Did your work life affect your family life?◆ Yes◆ No

16. What are the challenges that you face in yourwork life

◆ Lag in the receipt of money from sales◆ Unable to concentrate on work due to per-

sonal issues

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1. IntroductionThe regional textiles of India includes the designing onfibers, yarns and fabrics. The designing can be done inthe way of dyeing, printing, embroidery, embellishmentson the surface of the fabrics. Some of the regionaltextiles and surface embellishments are losing theiroriginality and becoming vague in the present day dueto vast industrialized output of textile and garmentsectors across the world. Each state of India is havingits own indigenous regional art and culture. The tech-niques and methods used for regional textiles are uniquein its own way. This uniqueness of workmanship interms of type of fibre, weaving design, dyeing, printingand surface designing aspects gives value addition tothe fabric.

Regional textiles of Gujarat is Double Ikat, which isproduced by weaving silk yarns named as 'Patola'.Earliest records of these textiles are seen in AjantaCave Murals of 6th century AD. This was consideredvery auspicious and worn on special occasions. Ikat

textiles manufactured in Odisa are called "Bandhas"and woven by special community people named Meharsand Patras. Specialty of these is presence of strikingcolour combinations, delicate fin patterns worked oncotton and silk yarns. Ikat Textiles produced in AndhraPradesh is called Telia Rumals and Pochampalli Ikats.Colours for Telia Rumals were terracotta red and blackwith other natural colours and for Pochampalli Ikatswide range of colours were used. Rajasthan is famousfor bagru prints which is a mud resist block printingtechnique. Resist paste called Dabu which is made upof clay and gum is used for this print and later is dyedwith vegetable dyes.

Globally there is increase in the world apparel exportin the year 2017. Regional Production and Trade Net-work (RPTN) is working behind the scene [10]. Thisis the vertical industry collaboration system betweenthe countries which are geographically located nearby.The flow of regional textiles into the market drasticallyraised the demand for textiles across the world. Datafrom the World Trade Organization (WTO) shows thatregional supply chain remains an essential feature oftoday's global textile and apparel trade [11]. Fashionclothing is important for overall look and values of theperson and society. Clothes what we wear has lot to

Introspection on Regional Traditional Textiles of Indiainto Development of Innovative Fashion Costumes

Dr. Mamatha Hegde*,HOD, Dept of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Design, M.S Ramaiah University of Applied

Sciences, Bangalore.

AbstractThe regional textiles of India include the designing on fibers, yarns and fabrics. The designing can be donein the way of dyeing, printing, embroidery, embellishments on the surface of the fabrics. Some of theregional textiles and surface embellishments are losing their originality and becoming vague in the presentday due to vast industrialized output of textile and garment sectors across the world. Each state of Indiais having its own indigenous regional art and culture. Review on regional textiles of India such as Pashmina,Kachchh, Kullu, Naga, Panja weave, Phulkari, Chikankari, Shisha work and Kasuti is highlighted. There isa need to touch the sensibility of Global fashion clothing lovers through reviving the ancient hiddentreasure of various Regions of India. Fusion of one regional ethnic designs with the other and incorporationof them in to new style is trending on the way these days. Economic and social growth can be enhancedby having introspection into the ancient wisdom and skills hidden behind the textiles and handicrafts.Novelty in design can be brought by developing new fashion. Today's fashion Industry is serving asarchetypes for development of new business model for the fast moving fashion goods for consumer andthe competition is growing at rapid speed globally.

KeywordsEconomic development, Fusion, Introspection, Revival and Traditional textiles

*All correspondences shall be addressed to,Dr. Mamatha Hegde ,HOD, Dept of Fashion Design, Faculty of Art and Design, M.SRamaiah University of Applied Sciences, Bangalore.Email : mamathahegde.fd.ad@msruas.ac.in

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communicate in terms of many varied factors as culture,customs, occasions, occupation, psycholologiy, person-ality etc. Imitation of fashion from elite class to loweris very much fast in these days when it is comparedwith the fashion of the earlier days. Fashion or trendis a style lies within and beyond the time and it keepschanging

Government of India is trying to revive and popularizethe hidden deepest heritage pertaining to textile andclothing sector. This type of introspection helps to bidthe irrelevant red listed industries and promote the greensustainable apparels industries. Introspection on tradi-tional art and revival promotes self-skill development,self-employment, and revenue generation by incorpo-rating innovative and functional aspects as Indian tex-tile Industry is one of the oldest industries in the world.Study of traditional art and textiles of India has be-come important in the overall economic developmentof a country. The creativity, workmanship and skill ofmany of this sector are extinguishing these days. Sothere is an urgent need to popularize the ancient he-reditary crafts through a proper innovative design de-velopment with due consideration to original motifs,colour combination and patterns by providing a suitabledirect market for the products.

2. Review on Regional Textiles of IndiaShawls2.1 PashminaThis is a fine type of Kashmiri wool and name isoriginated from Persian "Pash" meaning "weavable fi-bre precisely wool". The fibre obtained from chyangragoat were processed, stretched and cleaned by No-madic tribe called Changpa. The weaving of a singleshawl takes a week's period. The shawl is block printedwith varied designs. These are hand spun shawls, finerand thinner, worn as early as Indus valley civilizationand also during Mahabharat period by emperors andnoble rulers. After 18th century on words shawl be-came famous all over the world especially in Europe-ans countries. Pure pashmina is status symbol and luxuryfabric and cost ranges from 7,000 to 12,000[1].

2.2 KachchhThe shawl is traditional woven in Kutch region. Inolden days Bhujodi kachchh has its roots for bartersystem. This is a traditional hand loom shawl worn asveil. For making this spun wool is woven on pit loomusually 2 pieces and is attached by fish stitch. Shawlis usually tie dyed with embroidery work on it. TheGeographical Indication tag is been granted for Kachchh

shawl woven with motifs with solid colours. This tagwill help 1200 weavers from 210 villages [2].

2.3 KulluThe shawl is made in Kullu using three different typesof wool ie Merino, Angora and local sheep wool. Thishas geometrical designs on both ends and sometimeswith floral designs. The price of the shawl ranges fromRs 800 to Rs 10,000/-. Bhuttico cooperative societywas set up in Kullu in 1944 to promote weavers. Storessell the product in the trade name Bhuttico all over theworld [3].

2.4 NagaThe shawl is also known as Chakshesang and hasreceived Geographical Indication tag. The shawl hasclose connection with rituals and beliefs of the people.Naga tribe from Nagaland are basically Indo- Tibetanpeople used to make Naga shawl with red and blackcolours. With the stick of Bamboo warp and weft yarnsare woven into a beautiful designs of linear and geo-metrical patterns. The main specialty of the shawl isthree pieces are stitched separately and joined togetherhaving more elaborate design in the centre piece [4].

3. Weaves and Embroidery3.1 Panja WeaveThe weave is one of the India's Glorious tradition madeby using cotton and wool yarns. Panja is a metallic toolis used for beating of weft threads and so this is calledas Panja weave. . Weave is used for making lightweight rugs and weavers usually keep the design infront while weaving. Hand spun wool dyed with eco-friendly dyes is used for making this weave [5].

3.2 PhulkariThe motifs are made up of horizontal, vertical anddiagonal stitches producing geometrical patterns. Baghone type of Phulkari has overall geometrical floralpattern. Untwisted silk, cotton and woolen threads areused. The colours used are Yellow, blue, white, brown,orange, violet and green. No shaded threads are usedbut shade effect is given by changing the direction ofstitches. Stem, darning, herringbone, and satin, straight,back, running, blanket, spilt, cross and chain stitchesare used. Occasionally mirrors were inserted. ThePhulkari embroidery is usually done on shawls. Forceremonial occasions work was done in such a waythat base cloth was not visible at all [6].

3.3 ChikankariMotifs used are floral, leaf and paisley designs. The

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designs are borrowed from objects easily available andconnected with daily life such as different kinds ofgrain. Various grades of cotton and Silk threads areused for this embroidery. The colour used is basicallywhite on white fabric. Chickankari is used as sareeborders, on saree, blouses, kurtis, collars, jhabbas,Handkerchiefs, white caps, dupattas, waistcoats,Salwarkameez and Napkins [6].

3.4 Shisha workThe motifs used for this embroidery are floral withaccompanying parrots, peacocks and animal figures.The Gajasinha, the Krishna and dancing women arealso used. Silk and cotton threads are mostly used.Yellow, saffron, green, orange, red, white and purplecolours are used. Chain Stitch, darning, herringbone,long and interlacing stitches are used. Kutch Kathiawarembroidery are applied on Wall hangings, divan covers,bolster covers, ghagras, children caps, flare petticoats,Punjabi dresses, frocks, blouses, sarees and sofa cov-ers[7].

3.5 KasutiGopuras (temple towers), Puskarini ( temple tanks),Dispastambhas, Astakola, Tulsi Vrindavanas as well aschariots and Palanquins, the cradle, the sacred bull andother familiar objects which played an important partinto the normal life of the woman. The threads weredrawn from the cloth itself. Mercerized cotton threadsand sometime silk threads may be used. Red is promi-nent colour used for Kasuti embroidery. Other coloursare Orange, Green, purple and all bright colours. Tra-ditional Indian embroidery requires many differentstitches as well as variations of basic stitches- Runningstitch, Back Stitch, Stem Stitch, Satin Stitch, ChainStitch, Cross Stitch Herringbone Stitch, Interlacing Stitchand Shadow Work. Kasuti embroidery can be done onblouses, skirts, sarees, bed covers, curtains, napkins,shawls, shirts, lampshades, salwarkameez and even onneck ties [7].

3.6 KashmiriThe valley of Kashmir is one of the most beautifulnatural area, so also embroidery of this place reflectsnature. Bird motifs are parrot, Wood Pecker, Canaryand Kingfisher. Floral motifs are lotus, lily, and tulipand saffron flower. Fruits like grapes, plums, cherries,almonds and apple blossom are used. The threads ofsilk, cotton and wool are used. Green, crimson red,purple, blue, yellow and white The Kashmiri embroi-dery can be done on table covers, sarees, bed sheets,pillow covers, sofa covers, cushion covers, petticoats,

Punjabi dresses, wall pieces etc.[8].

3.7 Kutch KathiawarThe motifs used for this embroidery are floral withaccompanying parrots, peacocks and animal figures.The Gajasinha, the Krishna and dancing women arealso used. Silk and cotton threads are mostly used.Yellow, saffron, green, orange, red, white and purplecolours are used. Chain Stitch, darning, herringbone,long and interlacing stitches are used. . Kutch Kathiawarembroidery are applied on Wall hangings, divan covers,bolster covers, ghagras, children caps, flare petticoats,Punjabi dresses, frocks, blouses, sarees and sofa cov-ers.

Figure 3.1 : Regional Traditional Textiles of India [9]

4. Methodological Review"Think Globally, Act Locally" is the slogan of today forthe World Textile Industry. Nature has provided differ-ent coloring matter of plant, animal and mineral originfor dyeing of textiles from ages. Natural dyes areconsidered eco-friendly and are heading towards aperiod of renaissance. The use of natural dyes in tex-tile industry is gaining importance due to reasons thatthey are obtained from renewable resources and donot cause any health hazards. Natural dyes were onlythe dyes used by Indian people before the invent ofsynthetic dyes by scientist called Perkin in the year1857. Blue and red Indian dyes have been renownedfor millennia. Indian dyers' use of mordants was key totheir mastery, which was unrivalled until the inventionof western chemical dyes in the 19th century. To makepatterned cloth, the dyer uses a 'resist' such as waxor string to prevent some areas turning blue, as on the

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spotted 19th-century turban at right. Many of the skillspertaining to handcrafts and textiles of India are atdanger of loss. Hand Block Printing, Pashmina Shawlsetc. It takes up to five days to thread up the loom; thewarp is either white or natural coloured pashmina.Handmade shawls and scarves woven from pashminahave a long tradition [1]. In India after Independencecontinues efforts have been made to revive traditionalart through various awareness programmes which helpsin retaining and promotion of fine intricate work of acountry.

Figure 4.1 : Handloom Weaving Process

Figure 4.2 : Handicraft for Decoration

Indian "Cotton'' which is called King for all fibres dateback to 4000BC and colouring of textiles started asearly as 2500 BC. The India's finest cottons werenamed as "woven winds" by ancient Romans. Explo-rations of hand woven textiles and Sarees into devel-opment of an elegant outfit for the fast forwardingcountry and evolutionary humanity in sustainable way.Hand woven textiles, Ikkat, Batik, Tie and Dye, Mus-

lins, Himrus, Amrus, Paithani, Chaderis, Sarees, Lungisetc. can be introspected to shape the future of Indiasince the global trade systems were formed on theexport of Indian fabrics. Varied culture, geographicallocations and indigenous religions of India has its ownethnic weave, motif, colour patterns and designs. Eachregion has variety of abundant fibre and skill resourceswhich are extinguishing these days because of so calledmodernization. Accessories, decorative items, embroi-deries were often added novelty to most of the textilesand fashion.

Figure 4.3 : Silk Cocoon on Mulbery Leaves

Figure 4.4 : Silk Dyed Yarns

"Silk - called queen of fibre existed in India duringIndus Valley Civilization, dating back as early as 2450BCand 2000BC. Different species of silkworm producedifferent types of silks. Silk is reeled from the fila-ments of the silkworm's cocoon and then woven. India's'wild' silks come from the larvae of the Antheraeagenus of moths, which are native to eastern and cen-tral India. Different parts of silk cocoons are used tomake different textures of silk yarn. Muga silk fila-ments are reeled from the cocoon resulting in a smoothand shiny fabric. Eri silk cannot be reeled so the fibresare spun like wool, giving the cloth a soft rather thansilky surface. Today there is need to promote the

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Ahimsa Silk which is obtained after the escape of Silkmoth from the cocoon which was earlier promoted byMahatma Gandhiji. There are many varieties of SilkBrocades as Pot- thans, Mashru, Himru or Amru,Kinkwabs,Gyasar, Gyanta, Jamwar etc. In addition tothese Sarees of Mysore, Kanchipuram, Banarasi, Assamare woven in distinguished style that surpasses themodern powerloom sarees in their fineness, workman-ship and aesthetics[5].

5. Innovative Fashion

Figure-5.1 Fashionable Costumes

As there is a need for rapid shift in the fashion of thismodern age and future digital age. As the things arechanging in all the sectors so also in clothing. There isa need to touch the sensibility of Global fashion cloth-ing lovers through reviving the ancient hidden treasureof various Regions of India. Fusion of one regionalethnic designs with the other and incorporation of themin to new style is trending on the way these days.Though todays clients both in developed and develop-ing countries are very keen in fast moving fashionthey are interested in traceability and transparency inthe product before the purchase order. This type ofmovement develops the connection between both ofthem. Economic and social growth can be enhancedby having introspection into the ancient wisdom andskills hidden behind the textiles and handicrafts.

6. Conclusion Traditional fabrics are pure, natural and eco-friendly.There is a great revolution in the field of textile andapparel production because eco- conscious movementof consumers. Novelty in design can be brought bydeveloping new fashion. Today's fashion Industry isserving as archetypes for development of new busi-ness model for the fast moving fashion goods for con-sumer and the competition is growing at rapid speedglobally. Traditionally ancient lavish embroideries were

made by flattened and crimped gold or silver threads.These metal wrapped threads are woven on a loom tocreate luxurious fabrics. India's drapables such asSarees, Lungi etc. can be designed into an apparelswhich will have more elegant aesthetics, styles, prints,comfort, ease , eco-friendly and preferable for variedclimates.

References:1. Nandini, (2016) "The Legacy of Pashmina" Re-

trieved on 25-07-2018,from https://www.mapsofindia. com/my-india/travel/pashmina-the-art-of-kashmir

2. Kachchh Shawl Retrieved on 25-07-2018,, FromWikipedia, the free encyclopedia

3. Sabita Radhakrishna (2015) " Knots in History"Retrieved on 25-07-2018, https://www. thehindu.com/features/kids/the-story-of-naga-shawls

4. Richa Prakash, Sharada Devi and D. Anitha(2013), Handcrafted Shawls of Nagaland Retrievedon 23-07-2018, http://www.ijsrp.org/research-pa-per-0813/ijsrp-p2017.pdf

5. Craftsvilla (2017) Retrieved on 24-07-2018, " FabricTour of India: Discover India's Amazing HandloomHeritage" https://www.craftsvilla.com/blog/indian-handlooms-from-different-states-of-india

6. Brijibhushan Jamila, "Indian embroidery" Ministryof information and broad casting, New Delhi (1990)

7. Pandit Savitri ," Indian Embroidery its variegatedcharms" first edition published by the author fac-ulty of Home Science, Baroda. (1976)

8. Rani prit "Traditional Indian Embroideries" Journalof Textile Association, (1996) pgs 149-150.

9. Textiles stocks from India - press release, Re-trieved on 23-07-2018, https://www.google.co.in/searchq=Regional+Traditional+Textiles+of+ India +image

10. Sheng Lu"How regional supply chains are shap-ing world textiles and apparel trade" , Nov 2018,Retrieved on 09-03-2019, https://www.just-style.com/analysis, textile-and-apparel-trade_id135021.aspx

11. Sheng Lu, Regional supply chain remains an im-portant feature of global textile and apparel-trade,Nov2017, Retrieved on 09-03-2019 https://shenglufashion.com/2017/11/27/n updated-november -2017

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IntroductionBoth discipline and productivity are two sides of a coin. In the industryboth are co-existent. Discipline is earnestly required for productivity otherthan factors like product quality, machine health, machinery type, technicalparameters, environment and various management functions. Its manage-ment to see the discipline is created and maintained among workers andthat should be continuously under hawk eyes. All other factors like needs,comforts, payments, guardianship, guidance, training, well-being and socialwelfare be complied time to time as and when required. Then only pro-ductivity can be enhanced. The productivity is a combined term for pro-duction enhancement, quality up gradation and consistency, waste reduc-tion, cost below competition, environment friendly and safety proven work-place. In commercial term productivity is a ratio of total output upon totalinput.

Productivity = Total output / Total input

As such to improve productivity the industry has to increase total outputand decrease total input in concerned area like sales, purchase, bankingand finance, stores, product, inventory, quality of product, waste, salaryand wages, overhead expenses, safety and environment. The most impor-tant factor: consumption of natural resources like water, coal, oil, earth andelectricity can be as less as possible. Generation of electricity consumesmuch of natural resources like water, coal, oil, gas, diesel etc. And as onday, though it's everybody's concern nothing is possible without electricity.Its has become a total life-line now. Final call for electricity is only theSun, wind, sea waves and atoms. Our scientists are hopefully working onit.

Now what is the role of labour discipline on productivity? It encircleshealth, education, skill, efficiency, obedience to seniors and guidance tojuniors, attending job on time, adhering to work schedule, full attention andtotal attendance. Possessing all these qualities makes a labour a disciplinedone. And this is the main base for standard work culture in the industry.If management is considerate and concerned to such labour practices anddiscipline, there will not be happenings like unionism, hooglism, chaos,strike, lock-out, running slowly etc. It paves the way for full plant utiliza-tion and maximum labour productivity. A few case studies and examplesare being mentioned here with reference to textile industries. And theseexamples may be helpful in other industries or institutes as well either insimilar shape and situation or else. A few case studies are being mentionedfor practical approach.

Case 1: Reliever OperatorsIn a spinning mill in south India in 1980, there were 60 relievers per shiftin winding and reeling departments. Machines were made operational forcomplete 8 hours in each shift. Operators were being relieved for half an

Productivity Essence

Mr. R.N. Yadav is having a wideexperience in the Textile Industry oflast 48years' service in Spinning &Composite Mills. He has started hiscareer from the supervisory level andgradually with his skill and talent inwork experienc eelevated to MillPresident. He has occupied theindependent top authority of VicePresident & President during his last34 years' service.

Mr. Yadav worked with leadingindustrial houses like BharatCommerce & Industries, BhilwaraGroup, Mohota Group, Suryalata,Siddhartha and Jagdamba Group(Nepal).

Mr. Yadav independently started &worked successfully four new projectsand renovated five mills. Heestablished many new milestones inquality & productivity. He presentedseveral papers in textile conferencesand other meets affiliated to textileindustries. He has to his credit 100+technical & managerial paperspublished in textile journals andnational dailies. Mr. Yadav is authorof a hand book "Productivity" onstrategic textile industrial management.

He is recipient of Precitex award &Life Time Achievement award andLegendary Award from The TextileAssociation (India), M.P.Unit.

He is Patron Member, The TextileAssociation (India) and Life Member,Indian Environmental Association.

R. N. Yadav

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hour each shift for recess with a hope that productionwould be more as machines being run whole shift uti-lizing relievers. But the actuality was just reverse.Relievers least bothered for quality and production. Theyassumed that it was responsibility of machine opera-tors. For any defect passed on into the yarn, supervi-sors and head of department will question only opera-tors and not the relievers, as they have to relieve 8 to12 operators as per schedule and hence responsibilityfor any quality damage and production loss was nottheirs. And as such quality and production both werebeing lost due to engaging relievers. After realizing thefact, the management decided to keep winding andreeling machines idle during half an hour recess ineach shift at a time. The results were encouraging.The defects receded absolutely and production increasedby 3 %. The reason being simple, the machine oper-ators were now solely responsible for quality of theproduct and production.

Case 2: Non-Machinist WorkersMost of the mills employ jobbers, helpers, quality check-ers, overlookers, floor cleaners, relievers etc. for vig-ilance, work correction and quality assurance. But inthe long run, it all together creates jugglery, unionism,groupism, disobedience and finally they become andremain as good for nothing. On certain occasions theybecome negative forces. The best way to avoid suchsituations is never to employ indirect and non-machinistworkers. Production people like supervisors, machin-ists or machine operators should be made solely re-sponsible for quality, production, wastage of all catego-ry, power consumption, air, water, floor cleaning, up-keep of machinery and material, general housekeepingetc.

It creates quite a good work culture and result a highscoring. In 90's, in a 25 thousand spindles capacityspinning mill in middle India the above practice wasinitiated at the start of the mill and the mill is stillworking successfully without jobbers, checkers, help-ers, relievers, overlookers, can carriers, bobbin loaders,bobbincarriers, doffcarriers, floor cleaners, waste sort-er, empty cleaners, marker etc. Operators weremaderesponsible for their requirement of materials, tools,kits etc. And they were other thanoperation to keeptheir machines and area around neat and clean. Overhead travelling cleaners on individual machines or ongroup of machines were installed as per need. Evenwall mounted overhead travelling cleaners were in-stalled to clean wall sides and wall corners round theclock or on certain intervals as per need. The mill is

doing well still on the same formula with modernizationand expansion without any labour problem. No indirectworker a panacea.

Case 3: Doffing, Donning & GaitingIn 2009 in a spinning mill in north India, one spinningsection was cared for complete doffing activity by 6doffers and 6 gaitors. Doffers were removing fullbobbins, Doffing and inserting empties in spindles, don-ning and moved to store full bobbins in doff collectingbox. Then gaitors started machine and attend brokenends - gaiting. For doffing and donning 6 workers andfor gaiting 6 workers; total 12 workers to completedoffing--donning--gaiting operation. Technically doffingand donning should be done simultaneously and subse-quently. Immediate correct and firm insertion of emptytubes on spindles after removal of full bobbins manu-ally by doffers results in very less end breaks whenmachine is started and whatever ends down be imme-diately attended by doffers there itself. But in thatparticular mill doffers were supposed to take out fullbobbins, put empty tubes in spindles the way they findconvenient to them and leave machine to gaitors tostart it and attend the broken ends. During this veryspecific time machine remains idle and yarns on bot-tom of spindles in grip of empties get loosed. Whenmachine is started for gaiting, there occur many moreends down. That causes more hard waste and hugedoffing loss. If doffers do doffing, donning and gaitingmachine is hardly non productive for 2 to 2.5 minutes.And if doffers do doffing and donning leaving gaitingby gaitors machine is idle for 6 to 10 minutes. Themanagement studied and restructured the job makingone team of 8 doffers responsible for whole doffingoperation instead 12 persons in two teams.The ultimate result

◆ Compete doffing in 2.5 minutes only

◆ Starting ends down lessened

◆ Less hard waste and bonda

◆ 4 workers reduced.

Now one can see that a small change in operationalsystem done scientifically creates a big difference inworking expenses.

Case 4: Too Many EngineersIt has been observed that spinning mills, semi-compos-ite mills or composite mills employ too many engineerson day to day jobs. A mill of 40 thousand spindlescapacity running on cotton and cotton blends employed

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as many as 10 engineers to take care of power, elec-trical, electronics, civil, mechanical, utilities, air com-pressors, humidification etc. and a composite mill com-prising 47 thousand spindles, 400 powerlooms and aprocess house producing 50 thousand meters fabric inbleach, dyed and prints per day, was employing 16engineers- chief engineer to shift level. What a hugeemployment in engineering, really overcrowding. Allmaking hell, creating together mess of jobs and ulti-mately confusing state of mind, delays work. As suchit caused high cost of each and every work taken.After a deep and detailed study, the mill's managementdecided to reduce number of engineers and reallocatedthe responsibilities among remaining ones. In the spin-ning mill instead of 10 engineers only 2 and in thecomposite mill instead of 16 engineers only 3. Theirresponsibility and area were made overlapped and wellplanned. And it was found that in both the mills, workperformance has improved.

Case 5: Multi-Skilled OperativesAs these days, mills are installing latest version ofautomatic machines in all sections. A new approach isbeing developed to train multi-skilled workforce. Forexample, in a spinning mill blowroom feeder, card ten-ter, drawing tenter, speedframetenter and doffer canbe trained on all machines from blowroom to speed-frame to reduce category of operators and no relieverneeded. All can be designated as preparatory attendantaltogether to manage for general cleaning, feeding,waste collection and continuous operation of all ma-chines. They also have to manage their recess etc. inrotation as per time available with right work approach.Similarly in ring-frame spiders and doffers shouldmanage all the functions including house-keeping. Nextautoconer, winding, assembly, doubling, TFO operatorsshould be trained and developed for multi-skilled jobson these machines. As a result one can achieve re-duced number of hands, good production, better qualityand too less hard waste. In certain quality based millshard waste including all the above sections togetherhas been achieved as less as 0.20 percent only, a miraclefigure.

Similar arrangement can be planned in weavingpreparatory1. Warping & sizing jobs can be clubbed together

2. Drawers, knotters and beam gaitors jobs can beclubbed together

3. Loom shed workers job can be made multi-skilledfor weaver, reliever, checker and running fitter.

If all the jobs mentioned above are clubbed together,there can be enhancement in utilization, efficiency,quality, hard waste reduction and a huge margin inlabour complement. In 2016 at a weaving unit in cen-tral India with 140 auto looms with complete prepara-tory, a reduction of 72 hands per day have beenachieved. A record fresh packing of grey fabric wasachieved to the tune of 99.2 percent. And hard wastewarping to loom shed achieved as under

1. Warping - 0.35 %

2. Sizing - 0.45 %

3. Drawing, Knotting, Gaiting, Looms - 0.90 %

Total - 1.70 %

The above data is an average of the whole month.According to the day to day data, the total hard wasteachieved is as low as 1.30 % on certain days. Actuallyits a practical, scientific and novel approach by themanagement to study, restudy and reapproach to eachelement of the operations on all the machines. Train-ing, retraining and development of the operators areanother important aspect. And job restructuring mustbe a routine practice. If the above three managementstyles are adapted holistically and made continual, anymiracle is possible on the shop floor.

Process house too is not an exception. Here is a storyof a process house of a composite mill producing aroundone lakh metres of semi-bleached, bleached, dyed andprints in shorter and wider width per day will be worththe mention.

a) There were 48 designations of operatives.

b) No one will change his machine. He will work onhis allotted machine only. As such many a timesoperatives were given return while some othermachine is idle for want of hands. What a strangesituation?

c) Management and labour union have an agree-ment likewise.

Now one can easily understand the losses of processhouse at various points- boiler, coal, steam, water, util-ity workmen, supervisory staff and many more, delayin delivery for packing and supply, fabric damage un-der process due to frequent stoppages of variousmachines. Due to wrong agreements, absenteeism andoperators not working on other machines than allottedon their card were effecting production and qualityvery badly. Here also operators were regrouped as per

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near similar type work system like shearing, singeing,desizing, washing and drying, mercerising , neutralizingand drying, dyeing &stentering, finally finishing - brush-ing, calendaring, sanforising etc. The managementnegotiated with labour union for convincing the opera-tors in the group. It resulted in positive mode by certainadjustments, machinery reallocations, job restructuringand wages rescheduling. Management finally hired goodtrainer from reputed agencies and finally was success-ful in its approach of multi-skilled job and operators tolearn and be ready to work on machines as needed. Allthese efforts by management though lengthy but scien-tific, resulted in higher machine utilization, better fabricquality, less consumption of water, steam & power andless product damage. Overall production could be in-creased by 12%, damage and reprocessing below 2%andragsbelow one percent. As a surprise water con-sumption could be reduced by 40%. Human approachand task approach can be well trusted for better man-agement. Believe it!

Case 6: Maintenance TeamCertain maintenance helpers can be attached to vari-ous machines. As maintenance job is super skilled one,head fitter or foreman should be fixed with similarcategory or only one type of machines as per need.But group of helpers can be put up on machines ofother sections too. Such as blow room, card, drawing,speed frame and ring frame can be attached to onegroup and autoconer, winding, doubling, TFO, reelingetc. to another group. As such two or three fitters orhead fitters can take care of complete spinning millutilizing fixed and variable helpers.

Weaving division can have two head fitters along withfixed and variable helpers to maintain compete loomshed including weaving preparatory.

Process house maintenance is more on engineeringsection as its maintenance group has to look after elec-trical, electronics, water, oil, steam, hot oil supply &regulation, refused water- steam-oil collection and prop-er utilization of the same. Treatment of effluent isanother job connected to process house maintenance.Looking to the nature of work, it is essential to keepprocess house maintenance from washing room toeffluent treatment plant under the control of an engi-neer with fitter and helper's group.

And the most important fact is the maintenance in allthe sections to be scheduled & prevention. If the clean-ing and corrective of machine number X is scheduled

on 14th day of the month it should be done on 14th dayonly. If it is practiced holistically there will be no break-down at all.Case 7: Recess & SleepingIn many industries it has been observed that workerssleep during their recess hour and that too near therunning machines or somewhere in the departments.Neither it is under discipline nor legal. Recess is sup-posed to be for breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner, tea etc.but surely not for sleeping. If authorities question thesleeping person, reply comes "I am in recess". Butrecess never permits one to sleep. As such where isthe management and what about the discipline? It shouldbe taken seriously and nobody be allowed to sleepduring recess hour under any circumstances in factoryarea. But many management people don't take it seri-ously by ignorance and ultimately there is no disciplin-ary control and productivity starts falling down. It causesbad side effects also. Gradually union activities gainmomentum, unrealistic demand surfaces and work getsslow, quality is damaged, strike, closure and chaosbecomes a routine. Therefore it is suggested here thatsleeping at work should never be allowed.

Case 8: GeneralSecurity, transport, canteen, club, play ground, colony,gardening, house-keeping, sanitation etc. should beclubbed together under control of security in chargeworking at & from main gate of the factory. It helpsa lot. Movement of workers, materials incoming/outgo-ing regulate in time and in the correct way. Here is acase, workers coming inside factory at shift change.

Factory shift timings are 8 AM-4PM, 4PM-12 NIGHT& 12 NIGHT-8 AM each shift of 8 hours. Workersand supervisors must reach on their work spot wellbefore shift change to take proper charge from outgo-ing people. But it's not followed practically in most ofthe factories. Workers and supervisors are allowed toenter mill till the last second of the shift change tim-ings. This is totally impractical and indiscipline. Every-body must enter atleast 15 to 30 minutes earlier so thatto have proper check of the job and to take chargesfrom the outgoing person. Entry should not be permit-ted till last second of the shift change timings. This isa very big lacuna on part of the management. Nosooner, the management corrected the system as abovefor shift change; half the industrial discipline is achieved.No machine or job is without care for a single secondwhich creates productivity gain. Transport, gardening,sanitation etc. when under control of security in-chargeensures

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1. Improved general works

2. Less number of non-productive workers

3. Drivers when idle can care for gardening, postalworks, attendant, call-boy etc.

4. No mischievousness by drivers and house-keep-ing staff

5. Each and every in/out is under the knowledge

6. No gossip by operatives and others in the can-teen, lunch room or rest room

7. Improvement in discipline and overall work cul-ture

Conclusion & SuggestionsTo sum and substance, the studies and approacheswere well implemented in two composite and twospinning mills mainly by the author's own creativity andinitiatives. During job restructuring and change overthe human and the works approach, we're well de-signed and implemented. All the achievements weredue to self-discipline, self-determination and team work.Such practices and changes have created better prof-itability in the mills continually and upgraded the facevalue of balance sheets. The following suggestionsimminently mentioned below may help readers, lead-

ers, managers, researchers, management trainees andall others concerned to manage a mill for further im-provements:

1. Always think to upgrade the production, enhancethe quality, reduce all the types of wastage andspecifically input wastage

2. Always raise your goals

3. Be self-disciplined and make others to follow

4. Adapt latest technologies & techniques

5. Study market regularly to make products accord-ingly for immediate sale. Make sure that yourproduct warehouse near remains empty

6. Nothing is impossible if you have sufficient cour-age, grit and determination.

Remember a quote by Walt Disney"It's a kind of fun to do the impossible." Think, imple-ment and move ahead.

About AuthorR. N.YadavPrincipal ConsultantAaryan Associates --- A team of Textile TechnocratsMumbai and Nagpur

❑ ❑ ❑

The Textile Association (India) Visit uson www.textileassociationindia.org

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The series of chapters under the title, 'Graphene A Wonder Material' are being published in the Journal of the TextileAssociation. The nanomaterial Graphene has been attracting a lot of attention over the past few years. Thankful toits unique combination of a simple structure of bonded carbon atoms with its multitudinous and complex physicalproperties. This series covers the extraordinary features of graphene, its different methods of preparation and isolation,useful applications in various fields of science and technology, its science involved in the technology of textiles, andfinally ending up with its future prospects.

This series is written primarily as an introductory text for the readers of those interested or already working ingraphene and putting up its essence in the textile related areas, who wish to acquire a broad knowledge of grapheneand its application in textiles.

The previous chapter was based on the application of graphene and graphene-based materials for the electromagneticinterference shielding applications. As the electromagnetic properties, electronic and quantum phenomena are still inever-remaining need of improvement; the chapter offered the readers a wonderful tool for EMI shielding applications.

The present chapter puts some insights upon various syntheses of graphene quantum dots (GQDs); a new class offluorescent carbon materials, which have attracted tremendous attention due to their outstanding properties andpotential applications in biological, optoelectronic, and energy-related fields. Herein, top-down and bottom-up strat-egies for the fabrication of GQDs, mainly containing oxidative cleavage, the hydrothermal or solvothermal method, theultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted process, electrochemical oxidation, controllable synthesis, and carbonizationfrom small molecules or polymers, are briefly discussed.

Chapter 14GRAPHENE A WONDER MATERIAL : Graphene

Quantum Dots (Part-I)Saptarshi Maiti, Pintu Pandit, Geetal Mahajan, R. V. Adivarekar & M. D. Teli

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Graphene discovered by Novoselov et al. in 2004, isa new kind of nanomaterial with excellent mechanical,electrical, thermal, and optical properties. Till now manysynthesis methods have been developed, such asmicromechanical stripping, chemical vapor deposition(CVD), SiC epitaxial growth, and graphene oxide (GO)reduction. Because of the large planar conjugate struc-ture of graphene, the? electrons have a significantdelocalization effect. As a result, graphene possessesa zero band gap which is the feature of half-metallicmaterials, limiting its application in the fields of opto-electronic devices and semiconductors.

Quantum dots, or QDs, are semiconductor nano-par-ticles or nano-crystals, usually in the range of 2-10nanometers (10-50 atoms) in size. Their small size andhigh surface-to-volume ratio affects their optical andelectronic properties and makes them different fromlarger particles made of the same materials. Quantumdots confine the motion of conduction band electrons,valence band holes, or excitons (bound pairs of con-duction band electrons and valence band holes) in allthree spatial directions. Quantum dots are also some-times referred to as 'artificial atoms', a term that em-phasizes that they are a single object with bound, dis-crete electronic states, similarly to naturally occurringatoms or molecules.

Graphene quantum dots (GQDs), which are small piecesof graphene with a two-dimensional lateral size (lessthan 100 nm), have been developed in recent years.Ideal GQDs have a single atomic layer and only con-tain carbon. Actually, most of the prepared GQDs alsocontain oxygen and hydrogen, and often have multipleatomic layers, with sizes being less than 10 nm. Theband gap energy of the GQDs can be regulated from0 to 6 eV by changing the two-dimensional size orsurface chemical properties, due to the quantum con-finement effect of conjugated ?-domains and the edgeeffect. High-resolution transmission electron micros-copy (HRTEM) observations show that the GQDs havethe hexagonally symmetrical crystalline structure, andthe in-plane lattice spacing of 0.24 nm, completely thesame as graphene. Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR)spectroscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS) tests demonstrate that the hydrogen and oxygenin the GQDs mainly exist in the form of oxygen con-taining groups, such as hydroxyl, carbonyl, carboxyl,and epoxy groups. At present, a lot of research workis devoted to the surface chemical modification of theGQDs in order to regulate the properties for the appli-cations. The main approaches involve the control ofoxidation degree, surface functionalization, and heteroa-tom doping.

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Compared to the quantum dots of a traditional semi-conductor, the GQDs possess many advantages suchas, stable fluorescence properties, low toxicity, and goodwater solubility. Among them, the fluorescence proper-ties are the most important feature of the GQDs. Al-though the photoluminescence (PL) mechanism of theGQDs can be explained by the size of the GQDs,surface chemical groups, and doping atoms, there is nouniversal agreement on the specific PL mechanism.The dominant PL mechanism of GQDs consists of thequantum confinement effect of conjugated ?-domains,the surface/edge state in GQDs, as well as the syner-gistic effect of these two factors. Their fluorescentemission wavelength can be in various regions, includ-ing deep ultraviolet light, blue light, green light, yellowlight, and red light. It is attributed to the different sizes,surface functional groups, and excitation wavelength.

Besides, though the GQDs synthesized by variousmethods have different ultraviolet-visible absorptioncharacteristics, the p-p* transition absorption peakranges commonly from 200-270 nm wavelength, andthe n-p* transition absorption peak is more than 260nm. The ultraviolet-visible absorption is dependent onthe size of the GQDs, due to the quantum confinementeffect. In addition, oxygen-containing functional groupson the surface of the GQDs also have an importantinfluence on the absorption peak position.In this article, the research progresses on the prepara-tion of GQDs are reviewed. Top-down and bottom-upstrategies, which mainly contain oxidative cleavage, thehydrothermal or solvothermal methods, ultrasonic-as-sisted or microwave-assisted processes, electrochemi-cal oxidation, controllable synthesis, and carbonizationfrom small molecules or polymers, are discussed.

Synthesis methods of GQDsThe synthesis methods of the GQDs can be classifiedinto two categories: top-down strategy and bottom-upstrategy as shown in Figure 1. The former is extensivein the synthesis of GQDs because it is simple andeffective. GQDs are gained from carbon materials,including graphene, fullerenes, carbon nanotubes, etc.,by cutting them via chemical or physical methods, suchas oxidative cleavage, hydrothermal or solvothermalmethod, electrochemical oxidation, ultrasonic assistedor microwave assisted process, chemical vapor depo-sition (CVD), and laser ablation. For the latter, GQDsare fabricated through controllable synthesis or car-bonization from suitable organic molecules or polymers.The controllable synthesis is precise but complicated,

needing many steps of synthesis to obtain GQDs oflarge dimension. These formation processes are usu-ally uncontrollable, resulting in the preparation of GQDswith polydispersity.

Figure 1: Top-down and Bottom-up techniquesof GQDs synthesis

Top-down strategyOxidative cleavageOxidative cleavage, the most widely used method, isalso known as oxidation cutting. In this method, thecarbon-carbon bonds of graphene oxide (GO) orgraphene are generally broken by H

2SO

4, HNO

3, or

other oxidizers. For instance, in the work of Shen etal., GO sheets with a two-dimensional size of microngrade were put in HNO

3 and cut into the smaller pieces.

The products were treated with surface passivation byethylene glycol and then were reduced by hydrazinehydrate. Eventually, the GQDs with a diameter distri-bution from 5 to 19 nm were gained. It indicates thatblue fluorescence is obtained when the light of a 365nm wavelength is used to excite the GQDs. It is inter-esting that green fluorescence can be available whenthe light of a 980 nm wavelength is used. It demon-strates that the prepared GQDs have upconversionfluorescence properties.

Via et al. presented a simple and controlled method totune well the lateral size of GO at the nanometer scale.First, GO was synthesized from expandable graphiteby the modified Hummers method. Then, GO wasdispersed into deionized water followed by sonicationto obtain a brown GO solution. Later, H

5IO

6 were

added into the GO dispersion, and the mixed solutionwas kept at 60oC for 24 h. The precipitate was cen-

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trifuged out from solution and was further washed withdeionized water until the supernatant was neutral. Afterthat, sodium polystyrene sulfonate (PSS) was addedinto the above GO nanosheet solution and sonicatedfor 2 h. Finally, l-ascorbic acid (l-AA) was added intothe aqueous solution and stirred at 50°C for 24 h.When the reaction ended, the colour of the solutionturned from yellow to dark black, which was a visualindication that the GO nanosheets were successfullyreduced into GQDs with a mixture of different sizes(5-15 nm).

Oxidative cleavage or oxidation cutting is simple andeffective in the preparation of GQDs, but there aresome defects that the strong oxidizer used may causeburning or explosion and the post-processing is morecomplicated. Therefore, some new oxidation cuttingmethods are developed to settle the problems. For in-stance, Lu et al. utilized black carbon as a precursorand H

2O

2 as a facile oxidant and developed a simple

and facile one-pot method for the synthesis of GQDswithout using a strong concentrated acid, and the en-tire synthetic process took only 90 min. In the prepa-ration, black carbon was utilized as a precursor, andH

2O

2 was used as an oxidant to cut the black carbon.

The only reaction products were H2O and GQDs. Thus,

the proposed synthetic method not only avoids the useof a strong concentrated acid and the introduction ofmetal impurity contamination but also does not needany other post-processing treatments. The mechanismproposed is that the free radicals (e.g. ·OH and ·O-),which are produced from the decomposition of H2O2,have high reactivity and strong oxidizing properties sothey can oxidize and cut the graphene structure ofblack carbon effectively. The synthesized GQDs withdiameters ranging from 3.0 to 4.5 nm have robust photo-stability, good resistance to salt solution, low toxicity,and excellent biocompatibility. As a satisfactory FLprobe, the GQDs have been successfully applied in FLimaging of HeLa cells directly. Compared with otherreported methods, it is the most green and fastestsynthesis method for GQDs synthesis to date.

Hydrothermal/solvothermal methodThe hydrothermal or solvothermal method is a simpleand rapid method for the preparation of GQDs. It cutcarbon materials into GQDs under the conditions ofhigh temperature and high pressure in the process.Generally, the carbon materials need to be treatedthrough strong oxidation before the reactions occur.

The GQDs were prepared from GO as a raw materialvia the hydrothermal method for the first time by Panet al. GO was mixed in thick H

2SO

4/HNO

3 acid for

oxidation, and then, the hydrothermal reaction startedunder alkaline conditions for about 10 h. Eventually, theGQDs with a size distribution of 5-13 nm were gained.With the reaction mechanism, it was proposed thatmixed epoxy chains composed of fewer epoxy groupsand more carbonyl groups may exist in the oxidizedgraphene sheets (GSs). The presence of such lineardefects makes the GSs fragile and readily attacked.Some ultrafine pieces surrounded by the mixed epoxylines and/or edges may further break up during thehydrothermal deoxidization process, by which the bridg-ing O atoms in the epoxy lines get removed, and thus,the GQDs are formed eventually.

Significantly, Tian et al. reported a one-step solvothermalmethod for synthesizing GQDs with the application ofhydrogen peroxide in a DMF environment, which intro-duces no impurity in the whole preparation process.Typically, a muffle furnace was first heated to 800°Cfor 5 h, and then, 2 g of expandable graphite in analumina crucible was placed in a high-temperatureenvironment for 10 s to form expanded graphite. Inthis step, sulfuric acid and nitric acid molecules decom-pose into gas and escape from the interlayer of theexpanded graphite. The expanded graphite was thenmixed with DMF and treated with ultrasound to re-move air in the layered structure of the expanded graph-ite, making full contact between the solvent and theexpanded graphite. Subsequently, hydrogen peroxide wasadded into the mixture and stirred for 5 min to form ahomogeneous solution. The final mixture was trans-ferred into an autoclave and heated up to 170°C for 5h. The product solution was treated with vacuum filtra-tion to obtain GQDs. The mechanism of the reactionis similar to electrochemistry exfoliation of graphiteanode: water is oxidized under high redox potential togenerate oxygen and hydroxyl radicals, which act asthe "scissors" to cut down the graphite anode. It indi-cates that the diameters of the GQDs were mainlydistributed in a range of 20-40 nm, and the thicknessmainly falls in the range of 1-1.5 nm, corresponding totwo to three graphene layers. As the excitation wave-length increases from 280 nm to 420 nm, the PL inten-sity increases to maximum and then decreases, whilethe PL peaks shift from 398 nm to 480 nm. The quan-tum yields of 15% in neutral conditions and good pho-toluminescence stability in different pH conditions aredemonstrated, implying a wider application in differentharsh environments. This is the first time that GQDs

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were prepared from graphite materials by hydrogenperoxide without a dialysis process. Because of theextremely low cost, good water solubility, high quantumyield, no need for dialysis for purification, and easily-obtained experiment equipment, this method shows greatpromise in the biomedical field and electronic device.

It is noteworthy that Liu et al. reported a facile one-pot synthesis method using graphite as the startingmaterial, which can selectively obtain either pure GOor pure GQDs within 2 h, with a higher productionyield (93% for GO and 10% for GQDs). In this method,the graphite powder mixed with potassium permanga-nate and sulfuric acid is gradually added under mag-netic stirring. Then, nitric acid is introduced into theautoclave, which is heated to a certain temperature forthe desired products. It proves that the size (from 50to 2.5 nm) of the GQDs can be tuned by simply vary-ing the ratio of graphite and potassium permanganate.The emission spectra of the 2.5 nm GOQDs demon-strate a perfect excitation-dependent photoluminescencebehavior. The strong luminescence emission suggests ahigh luminescence yield (about 8.8%) and, sequentially,a high quality of the synthesized GOQDs. It should bementioned that typical solvothermal methods, utilizinggraphene oxide as a precursor, need more complicatedprocessing when compared with this strategy. This one-pot synthesis method has the following unique charac-teristics: (1) the operation procedure is simplified asthe reaction happens in a sealed autoclave; (2) GO orGQDs can be selectively obtained by simply adjustingthe reaction temperatures; (3) the size of the GQDscan be easily tuned from 50 to 25, 13, 5, and finally to2.5 nm, with strong luminescence emission; (4) variouscarbon sources, including MWCNTs, single-walledcarbon nanotubes (SWCNTs), carbon black, etc., canall be utilized for the fabrication; (5) method also al-lows large-scale synthesis of both pure GO and pureGQDs.

Microwave assisted/ultrasonic assisted processOne of the common problems in GQDs preparation isthe long reaction time when the oxidative cleavage orhydrothermal/solvothermal method is used. The micro-wave technique, as a rapid heating method, is widelyused for the preparation of nanomaterials. It not onlyshortens the reaction time but also improves the pro-duction yield. Accordingly, electrochemiluminescent(ECL) two-colour GQDs were fabricated by the cleav-age of GO in the acidic condition via the microwaveassisted method by Li et al. The oxidation reaction wasshortened, and the yield was improved to around 8%.

Besides, the ultrasonic technique is also a commonlyused method in the synthesis of GQDs. Tens of thou-sands of small bubbles in the liquid will form in thepresence of ultrasonic waves and produce instanta-neous high pressure and high energy. For instance, anenvironmental friendly, fast, and industrially promisingmethod for synthesizing GQDs at a large scale wasreported via an ultrasonic-assisted liquid phase exfolia-tion technique. The GQDs with different sizes, struc-tures, and defects were obtained using different gra-phitic carbon precursors for exfoliation, and the pro-duction yield of GQDs can reach 3.8 mg/ml. In atypical preparation of GQDs, acetylene black was dis-persed in N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) solvent. Thedispersion was then put under mild ultrasonication for1 h. A gray liquid containing dispersed GQDs and someresidual precipitates were obtained. The precipitateswere removed by centrifugation at 10,000 rpm for 30min, obtaining a homogeneous gray dispersion of GQDs.It shows that the size distribution of GQDs is between2 and 6 nm, and the thickness distribution is of 0.4-2nm, indicating a monolayer to a few layers of GQDs.The GQDs exhibit strong excitation-dependent PLbehavior. When excited at the wavelength range from310 to 490 nm, the PL shows red shifts from 428 to528 nm. It offers a new strategy for large-scale syn-thesis of GQDs with different contents of defects andedge structures, which can be used as the initials forfurther functionalization in the application of biology,electronic, energy, and engineering.

Interestingly, a novel method that combined the meritsof microwave assisted and ultrasonic assisted processeswas reported by Luo. In the work, whitelight- emittingGQDs (WGQDs) were prepared by a facile two-stepmicrowave-assisted hydrothermal method. The proce-dure is as follows: yellow-green fluorescent GQDs aresynthesized beforehand through exfoliation of oxidizedgraphite under the ultrasonication and microwave irra-diation. The GQDs show their average lateral size of2.5 nm, and the average height of the GQDs is calcu-lated to be about 2 nm from the AFM height image.After further reaction under microwave irradiation inalkaline solution (pH 13.0), the GQDs were convertedto WGQDs with photochemical stability and nontoxicity.The WGQDs are subsequently used as a phosphor tofabricate a white-light-emitting diode (WLED) deviceby a solution-processing method. The WLED based onthe WGQDs clearly displays better the white elec-troluminescence performance than that of the previ-ously reported WLED based on the GQDs or carbon

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dots. Therefore, it presents a novel method for WGQDspreparation.

Electrochemical oxidationIn the electrochemical oxidation method, graphite,graphene, or carbon nanotubes work as a workingelectrode and are oxidatively cleaved into the GQDsunder high REDOX voltage (±1.5 - ±3 V). There aretwo approaches for the electrochemical oxidation. Inone of the approaches, the carbon-carbon bonds ofgraphene or carbon nanotubes are directly fracturedby electrochemical oxidation. In another approach thewater is oxidized to turn into a hydroxyl free radical(·OH) or an oxygen free radical (O·), which can oxi-datively cleave them into GQDs. The GQD solutionsgained by the electrochemical oxidation method showhigh levels of stability, but their disadvantage is, boththe pretreatment of raw materials and the purificationof GQDs products take a long time. Moreover, it isdifficult to realize the mass production of the GQDsbecause of the low product yield.

In the study of Li et al., the graphene filter film wasused as a working electrode, and the phosphate buffersolution (PBS) was utilized as the electrolyte to fabri-cate GQDs. The electrochemical preparation of func-tional GQDs was performed by the CV scan within±3.0 V at a scan rate of 0.5 V s-1 in 0.1 m PBS. Thegraphene film (5 mm x 10 mm) was used as a workingelectrode. Pt wire and Ag/AgCl were used as counterand reference electrodes, respectively. Graphene filmwas prepared by filtration and treated with O2 plasmafor seconds prior to the preparation of the GQDs toenhance its hydrophilicity. The water-soluble GQDswere collected after filtering and dialyzed with a cel-lulose ester membrane bag. The prepared GQDs havea uniform size distribution (3-5 nm), present a greenluminescence, and can be retained stably in water forseveral months without any changes.

Bottom-up strategyControllable synthesisIn this method, GQDs are synthesized from phenyl-containing compounds through stepwise controllablesynthesis in the organic solvent. The as-synthesizedGQDs have an accurate number of carbon atoms,uniform size, and shape. However, the preparationprocess includes multistep complicated chemical reac-tions, which are not only consumed for a long time butare also of low yield. For instance, GQDs containing168, 132, and 170 carbon atoms were fabricated viathis method by Li et al. The 2',4',6'-trialkyl phenyl

molecules (TPM) were connected to the edge of theGQDs in order to prevent the GQDs from reuniting.The possibility of the GQDs overlapping with eachother was reduced, and the dispersibility in the organicphase was improved, because of the steric hindrancecaused by TPM stretching in three-dimensional direc-tion. It starts from small-molecule precursors, such as3-iodo-4-bromoaniline and other substituted benzenederivatives, to synthesize two key intermediates. Sub-sequently, stepwise Suzuki coupling reactions lead topolyphenylene dendritic precursors which are thenexposed to an excess of FeCl

3 in a dichloromethane/

nitromethane mixture, yielding the graphene quantumdots. They have large extinction coefficients in a widespectral range from UV to near-infrared and, thus, canserve as a new type of light-harvesting media forphotovoltaics. This mehod demonstrates a versatilesynthesis of large, stable colloidal graphene quantumdots with desired sizes and structures enabled by anew solubilization strategy.

CarbonizationThe molecular carbonization is an environmentallyfriendly and facile method, which utilizes suitable or-ganic molecules or polymers for dehydration and fur-ther carbonization. The GQDs with polydispersity areobtained because the size and the structure are diffi-cult to be controlled precisely in this method. For in-stance, low-cost and high-yield green-photoluminescentsingle-layer graphene quantum dots (SLGQDs) weresynthesized with only deionized water and glucose asa precursor via this method. In a typical synthesis,glucose powder was dissolved in deionized water. Themixture was treated in an autoclave at 200°C for 8 h.The initial liquid sample was transparent (colorless),and it changed to orange after the synthesis ofSLGQDs. The mechanism is presented as follows:under the hydrothermal process, glucose molecules aredehydrated to form C=C, which is the elementary unitof the graphene structure. During the formation of theQDs, the hydrogen atoms of a glucose molecule inter-act with the hydroxyl groups of an adjacent glucosemolecule leading to the formation of water molecules.Consequently, carbon atoms covalently interact witheach other, and finally, GQDs are formed. The SLGQDshave a uniform dispersion without any apparent aggre-gation with an average size of about 8 nm. When theSLGQD solution is excited at wavelengths from 450 to520 nm with an interval of 10 nm, the emission peaksof the sample at various excitation wavelengths do notshift, and the maximum emission wavelength remainsat around 540 nm. It implies that both the size and the

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surface state remain uniform, and the product is greenphotoluminescent. This facile method is presented toprepare the SLGQDs from only glucose powder as aprecursor in DI water, and shows the prominent ad-vantages of low-cost, high-yield, and large-scale pro-duction over the reported ones.

In general, the top-down strategy is extensively used inthe preparation of GQDs. The GQDs are gained fromcarbon materials, including graphene, fullerenes, car-

bon nanotubes, etc., by cutting them via chemical orphysical methods, such as oxidative cleavage, hydro-thermal or solvothermal method, electrochemical oxi-dation, ultrasonic-assisted or microwave-assisted pro-cess, and laser ablation. For the bottom-up strategy,the GQDs are fabricated through controllable synthesisor carbonization from suitable organic molecule orpolymers. The respective advantages and disadvan-tages of the different methods are summarized inTable 1.

Table 1: The respective advantages and disadvantages of different methods.

Top-down strategy

Bottom-up strategy

Methods

Oxidative cleavage

Hydrothermal/solvothermalMethod

Microwave assisted/Ultrasonic assistedProcess

Electrochemicaloxidation

ControllableSynthesis

Carbonization

Advantages

It is the most widely usedmethod, which canachieve to mass produc-tion because it is simpleand effective.

It is a simple and rapidmethod as well as envi-ronmentally friendly.

It not only can shorten thereaction time, but also canimprove the productionyield.The GQDs obtained bythis method show high lev-els of stability, and the sizedistribution is uniform.

The as-prepared GQDshave accurate number ofcarbon atoms, uniform sizeand shape.

It is an environmentallyfriendly and facile method.

Disadvantages

Some strong oxidizer, whichneeds to be used may causeburning or explosion, and thepost-processing process iscomplicated.

The carbon materials need tobe treated through strongoxidation before the reactionshappen.

Microwave/ultrasonic reactorare expensive, and the vol-ume is limited in industrial pro-duction.Pretreatment of raw materi-als and the purification ofGQD products take a longtime.Moreover, it is difficult to re-alize the mass production be-cause of the low productyield.

The preparation process in-cludes multistep complicatedchemical reactions, which notonly consume long time butalso are of low yield.

GQDs with polydispersity areobtained because the size andstructure are difficult to becontrolled precisely.

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SummaryGraphene Quantum Dots (GQDs) can be synthesizedthrough various approaches. As discussed in this ar-ticle there are many kinds of preparation methods ofGQDs that are developed. The basic concept and clas-sical method for making GQDs is cleavage of carbon-aceous materials by repeated oxidation and reduction.Besides, there are other ways including controllablesynthesis and carbonization. At present, the hydrother-mal process using GO as a starting material to obtainGQDs is the environmentally friendly approach, andstrong-acidic treatment of graphite is the method whichcan achieve mass production. However, the researchon the GQDs is still in its early stage compared tographene. For further development of the GQDs, weneed to find more suitable techniques to prepare in acommercial scale with minimum amount of defects.Extensive practical applications and fabrications ofGQDs also have a wide space of exploration for re-searchers which is to be covered up in the next part.

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12. Zhou C., Jiang W. and Via B. K., Colloids andSurfaces B: Biointerfaces, 118, 72-76, (2014).

13. Lu Q., Wu C., Liu D., Wang H., Su W., Li H.,Zhang Y. and Yao S., Green Chemistry, 19, 900-904, (2017).

14. Tetsuka H., Asahi R., Nagoya A., Okamoto K.,Tajima I., Ohta R. and Okamoto A., AdvancedMaterials, 24, 5333-5338, (2012).

15. Pan D., Zhang J., Li Z. and Wu M., Advancedmaterials, 22, 734-738, (2010).

16. Tian R., Zhong S., Wu J., Jiang W., Shen Y. andWang T., Optical Materials, 60, 204-208, (2016).

17. Li L. L., Ji J., Fei R., Wang C. Z., Lu Q., ZhangJ. R., Jiang L. P. and Zhu J. J., Advanced Func-tional Materials, 22, 2971-2979, (2012).

18. Lu L., Zhu Y., Shi C. and Pei Y. T. Carbon, 109,373-383, (2016).

19. Luo Z., Qi G., Chen K., Zou M., Yuwen L., ZhangX., Huang W. and Wang L., Advanced Func-tional Materials, 26, 2739-2744, (2016).

20. Wang L., Li W., Wu B., Li Z., Pan D. and Wu M.Chemical Engineering Journal, 309, 374-380,(2017).

21. Yan X., Cui X. and Li L. S., Journal of theAmerican Chemical Society, 132, 5944-5945,(2010).

22. Kumar G. S., Thupakula U., Sarkar P. K. andAcharya S. RSC Advances, 5, 27711-27716,(2015).

23. Bayat A. and Saievar-Iranizad E., Journal ofLuminescence, 192, 180-183, (2017).

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TEXNOTE

Make more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofMake more people aware ofyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and servicesyour brand and services

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IntroductionYarn twisting process enhances the cohesive forceamong the fibers. This increase in cohesivenesshelpsto protect the yarn from tension generated duringweaving and knitting. The two for one twister (TFO)first introduced in the textile manufacturing process forthe filament twisting purpose. Recentlytwo for onetwister has gained interest for plying of both spun yarnand filament yarns because of theiradvantages such asproduction of long length knot free yarns and higherproductivity. A long lengthknot free yarn facilitates betterperformance in subsequent processes. This system issuitable for alltypes of yarns except very fine yarnsabove 80 s count.

In the TFO, each rotation of the spindle insert one turnof twist in the length of yarn within the spindle,plusanother turn of twist in the yarn balloon. As a result,two turns of twist are inserted into the yarnfor eachrotation of the spindle; hence the name two-for-onetwisting.The two-for-one twistingmachine currentlyoffers high operational flexibility, working both withcontrolled and free balloons,extracting the balloon lim-iter [1-3].

In last three decades, many developments have beentaken place in TFO twister to improve theperformance,productivity and application areas. With the improve-

Development of Electronic Servo Control DriveIndustrial Two for One Twister for

Heavy Denier Filament Yarn

Prasanta K. Panda1 & A. N. Chaudhury2

1. The Bombay Textile Research Association, LBS Marg, Ghatkopar West, Mumbai - 400 0862. Kristeel Shinwa Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai

AbstractTwo for one twister (TFO) is the machine for plying of both spun yarn and filament yarns. This twisterisadvantageous for the production of long length knot free yarns and higher productivity. In thisinvention,TFO twister has been designed with individual drive to traverse, take up and spindle. Drivesto the traversemechanism consist of servo motor control mechanism. Total gear drive mechanism isreplaced with simpledriving mechanism in the developed machine compared to conventional TFOtwister. This machine is ableto save up to 40% of power consumption compared to existing gear drivemachine. The pot of the machineis suitable to accommodate large package of heavy denier industrialthreads. Human Machine Interface(HMI) has been attached to facilitate the easy operation in themachine.

KeywordsTwo for one twister, servo control motor, heavy denier industrial thread, individual drive, lowpowerconsumption

ments in feed package and spindlezone, TFO twistercan also be used to ply synthetic spun yarns and openend yarns. Development inthe winding zone is facilitat-ing to build the soft packages for dyeing purpose. In-corporation of thepneumatic threading system is help-ing to save the operator time. In the conventional TFOtwister, allthe drives were linked with one motor andgearbox. Machine has been developed with two gearboxinstead of one to enhance the versatility of themachine. Double gear system facilitates independentdriving of the two sides using low power motors. Inthis system, quick adjustment in parameters ispossible[4, 5]. Besides these, still there is need of market toincrease the performance of machineduring plying theheavy denier industrial threads. The ply twisting ofhigh denier industrial threadrequires pot with large sizeand high twist multiplier with low power consumption.If the package isbig, consequently it requires largecapacity motors to drive the spindles.

Driving system of TFO twister plays an important roleto enhance the performance and versatility ofthe ma-chine. Servomotor is one of the latest technologies inthe field of driving mechanism. Motorsused in auto-matic control system is called servomotor. Servomo-tors convert electrical signal in toangular displacementof a shaft. They can operate in a continuous duty orin a step duty based on theconstruction. Linear rela-

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tionship between speed and electrical control signal,steady state stability,wide range of speed control, lowmechanical and electrical inertia and fast response ispossible by theservomotor drive.

In this project, conventional drive arrangement withgear box has been replaced with one servo motorandtwo induction motor to provide drive separately totraverse, twisting and winding mechanism.Machine hasbeen designed with servo motor drives and large sizepot. Servo motor in place of gearbox drive consumeslow power and bigger size pot accommodates the largesize package foruninterrupted running of the machine.

2. Materials and Methods2.1. MaterialsServo system comprises of servo motor and controlpanel was procured from B&R Eggelsberg,Austria.Input current and RPM of servo motor was 4.7 and3000 respectively. 10hp, 7.5kW 3phinduction motor of1440 rpm was procured from Hindustan electric mo-tors, Ahmedabad, India. 03hp,2.25kW, 3ph inductionmotor of 960 rpm and human machine interface (HMI)to control all drive wasprocured from STEEL-O-FAB,Mumbai, India. Machine frame, servoplate, shaft, bear-ing housing,timing pulley were indigenously designed atkristeel Shinwa workshop.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Replacement of single motor gear drivemechanismIn the conventional TFO twister all drive was fromsingle large gear box and vertical shaft. Singlemotordriven gear box arrangement in the conventional TFOtwister consists of (a) cam shaft assemblyshown inFigure 1, which drives the traverse rod on either sideof the machine. (b) Vertical shaftassembly shown inFigure 2 which drives the gear box (c) Crossing anglegears shown in Figure 3which needs to be changed toadjust the twist per meter (TPM).Consumption of powerand lubricantis more in single motor gear box arrange-ment. This single motor gear drive arrangement wasreplacedby servomotor and individual induction motordrive. Servomotor was used to drive thetraversemechanism, 3hp induction motor was used todrive take up mechanism and 10hp induction motorwasused to drive the spindles. All three motors weresynchronised by HMI control.

Figure 1: Cam shaft assembly of the gear box

Figure 2: Vertical shaft assembly

Figure 3: Crossing gear pairs

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Figure 4. Gear diagram of motion transfer inconventional TFO twister

TFO twister consists of 12 spindle has been designedby replacing the one motor gear drive system.One 10 hp induction motor has been used to drive thespindle by tangential belt driving system. One3hp in-duction motor for take up and one servo control motorhas been used for traverse system. Imagesof thosedriving system are shown in Figure 5 (a), 5 (b) and 5(c). Schematic of driving arrangementare given in Fig-ure 6 (a), 5 (b) and 5 (c).

Figure 5 (a): 10hp induction motor todrive the spindle

Figure 5 (b): 3hp motor to drive thetake up system

Figure 5 (c): Servo motor arrangementfor traverse system

Figure 6(a): Schematic of tangential drive to spindle

Figure 6(b): Schematic of take up arrangement

Figure 6(c): Schematic of Servo motortraverse mechanism

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In the developed TFO twister, there is arrangement ofthree individual motor to drive the three different mecha-nisms. All the motors are synchronised to HumanMachine Interface electronic panel. Anychanges in theparameter such as revolution per minute, twist per meterand traverse width can be donethrough the panel, whereas in the conventional system, any changes in param-eter need to change thepinion in the gearing system.

Spindle speed range in developed machine can be variedbetween 1000 to 5000 RPM (Revolution perMinute)without changing any wheel. In the existing machinedepends on motor pulley diameter andspindle whorldiameter.

Spindle RPM = Motor RPM × Motor pulley diameter/Spindle whorl diameter

Twist per Meter (TPM) can be changed from 40 to1000 in developed machine compared to 40 to 700inexisting machine. The changes in parameter can becontrolled electronically in developed machinewhereasexisting machine needs manual setting and wheelchange.

2.2.2. Human Machine Interface Panel (HMI)The Human Machine Interface panel in developedmachine consists of three pages. First page of theHMIis shown in Figure 7(a). In this page, spindle speed,yarn take up speed and strokes per minutecan befeddirectly as per the requirement.

Figure 7 (a): First page of HMI panel

Figure 7(b): Second page of the HMI panel

Second page of the HMI is shown in Figure 7(b). Inthis page, yarn twist per meter (TPM), twistdirectionand yarn denier can be set directly during the opera-tion. Third page of the HMI demonstratedin Figure7(c)display the running parameters such as spindle motorRPM, spindle motor pulleydiameter,spindle whorl di-ameter, number of spindle, take up motor RPM, takeup drum diameter,delivery motor pulley and deliveryshaft pulley teeth of the machine during operation.

Figure 7(c): Third page of the HMI panel

2.3. Result and discussionDuring initial trial, over loading of the machine wasobserved with 1 kW of servomotor so it waschangedto 2 kW. By using 2 kW motor, over loading problemwas eliminated but cross winding inthe package wasobserved during package formation. This problem wassolved by shifting the motorfrom one corner of themachine to the middle of the machine and changingthe direct drive with suitablegear assembly.

Developed 12 spindle prototype machine and similar12 spindle conventional machine were operatedwithfull load at different revolution per minute to comparethe power consumption and packageproperty. Detailsabout the parameter and current intake by both themachine are given below in Table1(a), 1(b) and 1(c).

Table 1(a): Input Ampere value at 2000 RPM

Parameters Developed DevelopedMachine Machine

Spindle speed (RPM) 2000 2042

Twist per meter 80 80

Yarn denier 1000 1000

No. of sections 2 2

No. of spindles 12 12

Input Ampere 1.8 2.4

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Table 1(b): Input Ampere value at 2600 RPM

Parameters Developed DevelopedMachine Machine

Spindle speed (RPM) 2600 2500

Twist per meter 80 80

Yarn denier 1000 1000

No. of sections 2 2

No. of spindles 12 12

Input Ampere 2.5 3.25

Table 1(c): Input Ampere value at 3200 RPM

Parameters Developed DevelopedMachine Machine

Spindle speed (RPM) 3200 3185

Twist per meter 80 80

Yarn denier 1000 1000

No. of sections 2 2

No. of spindles 12 12

Input Ampere 3.25 4.16

The average input current in developed servo motorbase machine is 2.51A and in conventionalmachine is3.27A. Power consumption by the machine is I2Rwhere I = input current and R = resistance.The powerconsumption by developed machine is (3.25) 2R= 10.56R Watt and by the conventionalmachine is (4.16) 2R=17.30 R Watt. Resistance offered by the two machinesis similar so powerconsumption per unit resistance is10.56 W and 17.3 W by developed machine andconventionalmachine respectively. Reduction in powerconsumption is 6.74 W. This is about 39% reductioninpower consumption afterusing electronic control servo

motor. Package holder pot size can be usedbetween190 to 260 mm.

3. ConclusionTwo for one twister is successfully developed withelectronic control servomotor drive. Single motorgeardrive mechanism in conventional machine is replacedby independent drive to take up, spindleand traverse.Traverse mechanism was driven by electronically con-trol servomotor. Reduction inpower consumption bydeveloped machine was found 39%. Maintenance timeis less compared toconventional one due to absence ofgear drive system. Package holder pot size can beincreased up to260mm. Lower twist per meter (TPM)up to 20 is also possible All the process parametercontrol anddisplay in the machine is possible throughhuman machine interface electronic panel. Performanceandefficiency of the developed machine is higher thanthe conventional single motor gear driven machinedueto almost nilstoppage time for changing revolution perminute (RPM), TPM, overfeed etc whilechanging thelot.

Acknowledgement

We acknowledge The Ministry of Textile, Governmentof India, for funding this project.

References

1. Oxtoby, E., Spun Yarn Technology, Butterworthspublication USA, 1987,65.

2. Lorenz, R., Textile Progress 16(112), 1987.3. Lunenschloss, J., Farber, K., Textile Paraxis In-

ternational, 36(6), 1981, 650.4. Mehtani, J.G, Singh, C.P, ATIRA Communications

on Textile, 29(2), 1995, 45.5. Kleinhaust, E, Textile Paraxis International, 33(6),

1978, 667.❑ ❑ ❑

TECHNICAL UPDATE

ADVERTISE IN

JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATIONFor more details, contact:

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

Call: +91-22-2446 1145, Mobile: +91-9819801922

E-mail : taicnt@gmail.com, jb.soma@gmail.com, pavitra1941@gmail.com

Website: www.textileassociationindia.org

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Wet - Processing of Cotton fabrics is considered asmost polluting industry which includes preparatory,colouration and finishing processes. Desizing, scouring,bleaching, mercerization, washing are the unit opera-tions involved in woven preparatory section. Due tosevere dosages of chemicals, high temperature used,huge time of boiling and high water consumption, theprocesses are not economical as well as eco-friendlysince it consumes a lot of natural resources. Generallythe pre-treatment process sequence used in textileprocess house is Desize - Hot wash- Scour- Hotwashes- Peroxide bleach - Hot washes- Dry- Merceror Grey mercerize - Hot wash- Scour - Hot washes -Peroxide bleach - Hot washes.

Nijananda Innovative Solutions has come out with tworesearch based revolutionary innovative products namelyNanofab 1333TM and Nanofab 3355 TM. Mentionedresearch-based products are very much suitable forBatch or pad batch as well as for continuous setup.

Nanofab 1333TM is pure nano molecules that convertsthe chemical structure of the cotton fiber from alphaand beta-cellulose mixture to a thermodynamicallycellulose II polymorph within a fraction of seconds.Alpha and beta-cellulose polysaccharide chains arestabilized by intramolecular hydrogen bonds and ulti-mately this causes an increase in the surface area,reflectance and gives extraordinary softness.

NanofabTM 3355 is processed with graphene, nanooxides of metal and polymers. This research orientedproduct is designed to enable the industry transforma-tion from conventional textile cotton pretreatment pro-cess to modern environment-friendly systems to a newgeneration. NanofabTM 3355 assists it's correspondingcounterpart product NanofabTM 1333 after caustictreatment at the time of boiling wash out. NanofabTM3355 create stabilization of intermolecular hydrogen bondand remove natural wax and remaining of cotton fi-brous impurities. NanofabTM 3355 assist NanofabTM1333 for luster, compactness and increase dye affinity.It also assist treated cotton for improving fastness towashing, rubbing and light when dyed.

Green Innovation in Textile Processing

Deshpande R. H. & Deshpande V. R.Nijananda Innovative solutions, Ichalkaranji. Dist. Kolhapur

Researched based innovative process application de-tails are as follows:

The padding of grey with NanofabTM 1333- 10GPL and Caustic soda-280 Tw.

Holding time 12 to 18 hours

Load on CBR/JIGGER with NanofabTM 3355 (1-1.5% owf) with peroxide

& stabilizer in presence of caustic

Fabric is ready for dyeing/printing with betterqualities.

Now RFD is ready better than the mercerizing methodwith very less water, less chemicalconsumption andenergy. Advantages of the system are:

◆ Low processing cost.◆ Half processing time.◆ 4-time production that will minimize the chemical

cost of processing◆ 100% elimination of desizing process and elimina-

tion of sizing sludge on CRP and ETPplant.◆ 100% elimination of mercerizing process.◆ No multiple drying required.◆ Substantial saving in caustic soda which will ben-

efit in effluent treatment to minimizeTDS.◆ Reduced lead time of processing.◆ Great saving in investment cost, water, energy

and chemical cost.◆ Better robustness and reproducibility.

For more details kindly contact:Nijananda Innovative Solutions,Ichalkaranji, Dist. Kolhapur - 416 115,Mobile: 9923421408, 9970052897, 8830893978.

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TECHNICAL UPDATE

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NEWS

Lifestyle brand Outerknown - the brainchild of surflegend Kelly Slater and designer John Moore - hascreated the world's first boardshort crafted from 100%Australian Merino wool.

Merino wool is a 100% natural, renewable andbiodegradablefibregrown from the simple blend of sun-shine, water, grass and air. For the lifestyle of thenomadic surfer that the Outerknown brand was cre-ated for, the innovative product truly is from nature, fornature.

"We love collaborating with like-minded brands to pushboundaries and charter new territories in sustainabledesign," said Kelly Slater, Pro-surfer and OuterknownCo-Founder. "The Woolmark Company's long-timededication to authenticity, fibre quality and supply chainexcellence naturally aligns with Outerknown's ethos,and we're so excited to launch the world's first Merinowool trunks together."

Developed with The Woolmark Company,Outerknown'sWoolarooboardshortis a throwback to thegolden age of surfing, when trunks were consideredequipment and made from a heavy twill fabric. Now,thanks to innovations in fibre, fabric and manufacturingtechniques, a high-performance weather resistant fab-ric made from 100% Australian Merino wool hits thesurf, with a strong environmental mission.

"In our constant quest to push the limits of sustainabledesign and responsible innovation, we partnered with

A world-first, introducing the 100%Merino wool boardshort

The Woolmark Company to make the first ever 100%Merino wool boardshort," said Creative Director, JohnMoore. "This trunk is for a man with a keen sense ofnostalgia, who puts style and soul on the same plain asfunction and quality. We've been wearing the Woolaroosince its early development and it's soft yet strong andthe more you wear them in, the better they look."

Made entirely out of nature's original performance fi-bre, Merino wool's natural benefits come into theirown in the world-first Woolaroo. Naturally breathableand resistant to odour, the Woolaroo is quick-dryingand wind resistant for post-surf comfort and the fibre'snatural softness and drapeoffers freedom to move inthe waves and on the sand.

Using the latest OptimTMspinning techniques, Merinowool fibres are pre-stretched and spun into yarn be-fore being woven to create the fabric used inOuterknown'sWoolaroo. The fabric then super con-tracts creating a highly compact fabric and the 'jammed'weave structure delivers a resilient handle able towithstand surf conditions.

"The Woolaroo perfectly sums up the soul of Merinowool," says The Woolmark Company Managing Direc-tor Stuart McCullough. "Soft on skin but tough enoughto handle the elements, wool is not only the world'soldest fibre but also the most technically advanced,with modern manufacturing techniques making the besteven better. The first of its kind in the world,Outerknown'sWoolaroo is redefining the way we wearwool."

The Woolaroo is available at www.outerknown.com/woolaroo and select retail locations starting Monday,June 10th and will retail for $125 USD.

HUNTSMAN Textile effects joins ZDHC foundationas contributor and reaffirms commitment to environ-mental protection

Accelerating change through collective industry effortHuntsman Textile Effects is a proud member of theGlobal Chemical Industry Round Table initiative(GCIRT) and is very happy to announce today ourdecision to join the ZDHC Foundation as a contributor.We will be uploading our key products onto the ZDHCGateway Chemical Module and support the ZDHCManufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) and

HUNTSMAN Textile effects joins ZDHC foundationthe related "pyramid" conformity system designed toeliminate duplicative approaches. This is the funda-mental base to the success of ZDHC and all stake-holders of the textile value chain. Huntsman TextileEffects will actively engage in various task forcesfocused on supporting the continuous improvementprograms of ZDHC. As such Huntsman Textile Ef-fects, together with the GCIRT Initiative, look forwardto a close and open cooperation with all stakeholdersof ZDHC."As one of the world's leading chemical suppliers ofsustainable textile dyes, we take a proactive approach

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NEWS

A.T.E. to provide high quality carpet heat setting ma-chinery through tie up with Power-Heat-Set, Germany

Power-Heat-Set GmbH, Germany, has joined handswith A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited, Indiafor thesales and marketing of carpet yarn heat setting ma-chines in India.

PHS-GVA+-carpet-yarn-heat-setting-machine

A.T.E. tie up with Power Heat SetWith an experience of more than four decades in themanufacturing and supply of carpet heat setting ma-chinery, Power-Heat-Set's machines are known for theirreliability and flexibility. Power-Heat-Set's range in-cludes various versions of their well-proven GVA andHiPerSet carpet yarn heat setting machines that aremanufactured at Toeging, near Munich, Germany.

Their R&D department focuses on constantly improv-ing the quality, productivity, and energy savings of themachines being made by them.

A.T.E. has more than 80 years of experience in theIndian textile industry and provides end-to-end solu-tions across the textile value chain. Its domain knowl-edge and relationships have made it a sought afterpartner in carpet manufacturing machinery.

A.T.E. Enterprises Private Limited, India, has joinedhands with Lüscher Technologies AG, Switzerland, forsales and marketing of UV laser direct exposing unitsfor rotary screens in India.

JetScreenDX2309596

Lüscher Technologies, Obstalden/Switzerland, foundedin 1946, is a leading global manufacturer of state-of-

A.T.E. ties-up with Lüscher Technologies AG, Switzerlandthe-art imaging systems for various printing technolo-gies, and caters to the graphic arts and textile indus-tries. Backed by around 73 years of experience, Lüschermanufactures many kinds of cutting-edge equipment.

One of these is the state-of-the-art UV laser diodedirect exposing system, model - JetScreen DX round.It uses the latest technology - UV laser diode 405nm,having an optical system with resolution from 600 -1200 dpi. These diodes are designed to consume lowenergy and are long lasting with an average life of20,000 hours.

A.T.E. with over 80 years of experience in the Indiantextile industry is a domain expert in textile processingproviding end-to-end solutions. With this partnership,A.T.E. brings yet another innovative technology to theIndian textile industry, which will provide a sustainablecompetitive advantage in their business.

in reducing the industry's environmental footprint andeliminating hazardous chemicals. The collaboration withZDHC is an important step in our journey towards aclean, compliant, ethical and thriving textile industry,"said Rohit Aggarwal, President, Huntsman TextileEffects.

Huntsman Textile Effects has had a long-standingcommitment to sustainability through continuous inno-vation and collaboration across the industry. An inclu-sive and holistic approach that considers the impact ofHuntsman's operations on the ecosystem, economy and

society at large, and ensures compliance to industryregulation and standards, is vital to driving sustainabilityacross the textile value chain.

In alignment with other chemical suppliers in the indus-try, Huntsman Textile Effects reaffirms its commit-ment to sustainable chemistry and the elimination ofhazardous chemicals.

More details of the Joint announcement of GCIRT andZDHC:https://www.roadmaptozero.com/news/post/zdhc-foun-dation-welcomes-broad-chemical-industry-engagement/

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NEWS

Apparel Connect 2019 was organized by Sure-comMedia, Apparel connect 2019 and apparel Logistics on16th May, 2019 at Shangri La's Eros hotel, New Delhi.Conference was attended by more than 200 appareland Logistics professionals from around the countryand abroad. Five intriguing panel discussions were heldin the conference which touched each and every as-pects of India's Apparel supply chain.

Mr. Ajeet Kumar, Director, Surecom Media providedthe opening remarks and noted the organization's com-mitment to delivering first-rate logistics conferencesfrom CONNECT series of conferences, to the entireindustry. The conference was inaugurated with the light-ing of lamp by the dignitaries Mr. N. Sivasailam, Spe-cial Secretary, Logistics, Ministry of Commerce &Industry, Govt. of India;

Dr. Anil Chinnabhandar, Senior Vice President, retailPlanning and Supply Chain, Landmark Group; Mr. VijayKumar, Head Logistics, ITC Limited; and MsSmitiSuri,Publisher, Surecom Media.

Mr. N. Sivasailam addressed the conference in theinaugural session. He informed that India is now amember of TIR, a convention and protocol for roadtransport, which was signed in January, 2019. It is nowpossible for Indian trucks to go to Europe via landroute. He said that the Multimodal Act is being re-casted and that it is entirely based on the industry'ssuggestions. He added that logistics is a key issue asfar as apparels are concerned, and that the apparelindustry is important because it addresses the corerequirement of logistics to provide access.

The Ist panel discussion of the conference titled "Trans-formation: Supplier-Buyer Connect" covered the top-ics. What are the evolving models for the long termand more sustainable businesses? What is the future

APPARELCONNECT 2019 celebrates huge success

for the traditional buyer-seller the trade service be madeaccessible so that goods reach safer and faster? Thepanel saw eminent speakers, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain,Managing Director, TT Ltd.; Mr. Vijay Kumar, Head,Logistics, ITC Limited;

Dr. RoopakVasishtha,CEO & DG, Apparel Made-Ups& Home Furnishings Sector Skill Council; and Dr. M.G. ThamizhValavan, Commissioner (Investigation -Custom), Central Board of Indirect Taxes and Cus-toms, Department of Revenue, Ministry of finance.

Mr. Sanjay K. Jain said that associations are the bridgebetween the government and industry. "In the apparelsector, 80 er sent of our exports are MSME, whichmeans less than 10 Cr. Of turnover. The MSME don'thave a website to land up and search for the requiredinformation; moreover the circulars are extensive with-out any highlight on the most crucial information andaspects, therefore they don't understand or miss out onthe relevant content," informed Mr. Jain. Advocatingon behalf of the industry, Mr. Jain urged the Indiangovernment to consider the creation of a websitewherein every association can be enrolled and regis-tered. Whenever any circular notice is being published,an e-mailer can direct everyone to the relevant infor-mation apart from the link available on the website,making everyone cognizant of the latest informationand updates on the apparel sector. This will serve thepurpose of information dissemination among the indus-try on all important aspects of performance, sales,revenues, taxes and trade analytics in the apparel in-dustry."

In the 2nd panel discussion, Mr. Rajiv Pande, Presi-dent, PERF by Rahman group; Mr. ArvindOberoi,General Manager, Sourcing and Merchandising, Im-pulse; Mr. M. Srinivasan, Vice President, Planning &Supply Chain, V-Mart Retail; Mr. Sudhir Gupta, Head,

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Buying and Merchandising, Sourcing & retail Planning,ITC Ltd.; Dr. Anil Chinnabhandar, Senior Vice Presi-dent, Retail Planning & supply Chain, Landmark Group;and MsSheetal Kapoor, Joint Managing Director, SHRLifestyles, debated on the subject "Asia - From a sourc-ing hub to a Fashion Destination".

Many new details came to limelight including. Howexports will be able to overcome issues like time gapand how will retailers develop their vendors in this everexpanding market.

Mr. Anil Channabhandar informed that Internationalretailers coming to India will open more new opportu-nities for the Indian market. Mr. Channabhandar said"We are exploiting the opportunities of internationalretailers coming to India and trying to share their de-sign and business strategies which will actually helpbuild further efficiency, competency and excitementfor retailers.

We are able to introduce international designs, interna-tional fashion in Tier II, III and IV segments which isultimately going to create huge opportunity for theyounger generation.

International merchants along with trying to sell a lot oftheir merchandise are incorporating a lot of Indiandesign elements into their overall merchandising and soon. Indian ethnic prints are getting into western styling.Today, most international retailer wants to include theethnic wear concept of India."

The post lunch session kicked off with the 3rd paneldiscussion on "How Supply Chain is getting reconfiguredpost GST for the Textile/Garment Industry", Industryleaders who took to the stage were Mr. Sunil Arora,Vice President. The Air Cargo agents Association ofIndia (ACAAI); Mr. Ratnesh Singh, Retail Head, Per-fect Lifestyles; Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President, TheTextile Association (India); and Mr. Varija Bajaj,Founder, Varija Lifestyles.

Mr. T. K. Sengupta, President, The Textile Association(India); and Mr. Varija Bajaj, Founder, Varija Lifestyles.The value-adding points that emerged during the dis-cussion were digital commerce accelerated the retailbusiness, demand driven industry offers customers alow price range, GST has been helpful for the overallsector bringing down the overall tax burden etc.

During the session, Mr. T. K. Sengupta proved quitevocal informing that the export scenario for garment inIndia has fallen since May 2017 to 13.5% monthly.The overall production from May-December 2018 hasbeen 10.4%. "Bangladesh is now on 2nd position fol-lowing China in exporting garments and India has fallento the 5th position. Bangladesh is very much commit-ted to their apparel business since 80% of the country'stotal economy is dependent on textile. The productivityof their workers is also double than that of Indianworkers" stated Mr. Sengupta.

The 4th panel discussion of the conference "Key trendsthat are impacting the Apparel Logistics Market"broughton stage by Mr. KomalGangaramani, Senior LogisticsAnalyst, Origin Planning & Operations, Gap Inc, Glo-bal Supply Chain; MsDeepaSureka, Managing Direc-tor, Taanz Fashions; Mr. A. K. Jain, GM, Commercial,Orient Craft; Mr. Pankaj Singh, Director, Shopzo Brand;Mr. DinakarMalladi, Vice President, Corporate Affairs,Kerry Indev Logistics; and Mr. KekuBomiGazdar, ChiefExecutive Officer, AAI Cargo Logistics and AlliedServices Company Limited. The panel briefed on thebottlenecks and opportunities in the current system andon the evolving technological landscape such as therapidly growing adoption of radio frequency identifica-tion (RFID) tags in the apparel industry.

Mr. KomalGangaramani said that RFID can add to avery good personalized customer experience. "The chipinside a garment helps the customer to find the differ-ent colours and sizes that are available not just on onelocation but on multiple locations as well. With that,customer's overall time is going to be saved. Apart

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from this, RFID is also owing to the need for bettertracking of goods," added Mr. Gangaramani.

The 5th and the last panel discussion witnessed profes-sionals and specialists from the field, Mr. Sunil Arora,Vice President, The Air Cargo Agents Association ofIndia (ACAAI); Mr. Bhanu Dora, General Manager,Pearl Global Industries; Mr. AnimeshSaxena, Manag-ing Director, Neetee Clothing; and Mr. PrashantBatra,Retail Head, Taanz Fashions, sharing their knowledgeand expertise on the topic "Mastering Apparel SupplyChains."

The panel stressed on the vital role that technologyplays in the sector, and that positioning the right infra-structure has been a challenge and therefore associa-tions, freight forwarders and logistics service providersalike must be pro-active to confront the government onthe prevailing issues so as to map out logistics thatneed to be closely aligned with a company's manufac-turing and commercial strategies.

Commenting on the crucial aspect of shipping delaysimpacting the metabolism of fast fashion, Mr. BhanuDora said that "Although technology plays a vital role,the challenges unfold because of the lack of infrastruc-ture, the ports don't function, and sometimes we alsoneed to face road and truck restrictions. Here, over-coming the manual intervention becomes the biggerpicture. Speed and efficiency takes a back once we

are challenged by these issues. Technology will unde-niably fail if infrastructure is not up to our suit."

With this, the conference's objective of sharing infor-mation and networking was met. Each panel wascrafted with dexterity to make each panelist supple-ment the objective of overall knowledge sharing forthe topic of respective panel. This event had a greatsuccess and audience enthusiasm and positive spirithelped to make the participation both productive andfun.

For 70 years, BRÜCKNER has been the worldwidepartner for all companies which are drying, coating andfinishing web-shaped materials: whether clothing fab-rics, nonwovens, carpet, glass or coatings - the varietyof materials to be processed has never been limited.

Today, it is no longer just a question of machines, butrather of automation and control systems. The topic ofdigitization and Industry 4.0 opens up completely newpossibilities for increasing productivity, reducing the useof resources and improving quality. In addition, an in-creasing shortage of skilled workers can be addressedby more intelligent software.

BRÜCKNER has invested, developed and implementeda lot in this area in recent years:

◆ Intelligent assistance systems monitor the machinesettings in the background and provide the ma-chine operator with information on how to run the

BRÜCKNER on ITMA 201970 years of success through innovation

BRUECKNER Sanfor line

Entry zone of the new VNE2 multi-layer stenter

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system even more productively and consumingless resources. Studies have shown that optimiz-ing production parameters can increase produc-tion speed by up to 40% and/or reduce energyconsumption by up to 30%.

◆ A newly developed simulation tool helps to opti-mize existing recipes. The many machine param-eters to be set have been reduced to the essen-tials and can in future be calculated automaticallyon the basis of the textile key data.

◆ For the service, there is a new maintenance toolthat proactively gives the machine operator ormaintenance department service instructions thatcan be tracked in a logbook. In future, a newlydeveloped online service platform will support ourcustomers with all service inquiries. The techni-cians communicate directly with the customer viavideo conferencing - partly with augmented real-ity. Documents such as circuit diagrams or main-tenance manuals can be viewed and explainedtogether and spare parts can be ordered directly.For regular maintenance processes, photo or videoillustrations can be stored in local language. Tech-nically caused downtimes can be significantly re-duced by these new systems. This increases sys-tem availability and thus productivity.

◆ The exchange of machine data with higher-levelcontrol station or ERP systems is easily possiblewith OPC-UA. This allows to rationalize pro-cesses in the textile factory and to monitor thequality.

In addition to these efforts in the field of automation,BRÜCKNER also demonstrates the great diversity oftheir experience and product portfolio. This diversityand consulting competence have been built up overmany years of innovation.

For example, BRÜCKNER has invested a lot in thedenim sector and has also increased its personnel. TheGerman market leader offers integrated finishing sys-tems for pigment dyeing, synthetic resin finishing andcoating: All components from the entry area, padder,IR pre-dryer, minimum application unit, coating unit,stenter, curing / hotflue, cooling, to the exit area areavailable from the market leader and systems supplierBRÜCKNER.

Top-dyeing or finishing of both sides of the fabric isusually carried out with the BRÜCKNER padder. One-sided functionalization or dyeing is carried out with theminimum application unit. The experts fromBRÜCKNER answer any question and are happy toexplain the advantages of the respective processes.

Particularly noteworthy is the economical finishing with

minimum application technology and another importantcomponent in the finishing of denim fabrics is the provenBRÜCKNER Sanfor line POWER-SHRINK, whichwill be presented at this trade fair. The specialists atITMA will be happy to provide further information.

BRÜCKNER can offer new concepts in the field ofcontinuous dyeing. The continuously improved POWER-INFRATHERM IR pre-dryer has heating and coolingtimes of less than 5 seconds. The stripe-free dryingburner segments made of special metal fibre and thelarge temperature control range ensure the consistentand reproducible high fabric quality.

The BRÜCKNER POWER-COLORTHERM Hotflueensures uniform drying of the fabric over the entirewidth of the chambers. Even with narrow fabric webson a wider machine, the dyeing results are optimal.Due to the symmetrical design and the inverter-con-trolled fans, the uniform air distribution through theupper and lower nozzles makes a volume adjustmentvia mechanical flaps superfluous. Optionally availableare patented, driven special spreading rollers for crease-free operation with sensitive fabrics (stripe satin /percale / weft-elastic fabric) as well as a highly effec-tive, fully automatic roller cleaning system.

The BRÜCKNER specialists in Barcelona are alsoavailable to answer your questions in this area and willbe pleased to advise you.

BRÜCKNER also has something new to offer in thefield of multi-layer stenters. Multi-layer stenters aremostly used where little space is available. They aresuitable for finishing woven or dimensionally stableknitted fabric, nonwovens, needle felt, and technicaltextiles or for the wool industry.

With the new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME VNEmulti-layer stenter, only one machine operator is re-quired, as the entry and the exit are on the samemachine side. This applies both to the version with twoand with six fabric passages.

The new VNE machine concept offers the highestpossible power density on a small floor space or a longair flow section in a very confined space. The dryer isequipped with BRÜCKNER's patented split-flow aircirculation system and the alternating arrangement ineach half compartment additionally ensures optimumand uniform air circulation and thermal treatment ofthe fabric.

Another advantage is the completely lubricant-freefabric transport chain of the multi-layer stenter, be-cause in this version there is absolutely no oil in thedryer interior.

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◆ Colorjet to launch Vastrajet®- 8164 digital textileprinter with 16 heads

◆ Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest techno-logical innovation called AiS™

◆ ColorJet will also show high-speed Metro-8166with speeds of up to 294 sq. metre per hour

Building up on the success of the Vastrajet®- 8824,ColorJet India Ltd, the biggest Indian manufacturer ofdigital printers is launching Vastrajet®- 8164, a digitaltextile printer with 16 heads at ITMA Barcelona 2019in Hall-3, Stall B-102. The advanced, high speed directto fabric printer Vastrajet®- 8164 has the ability tobecome a commercial winner by providing users withoutstanding performance, increased productivity, supe-rior printing accuracy with minimal maintenance needs.

The latest Vastrajet®- 8164 comes with the latest tech-nological innovation from ColorJet -AiS™(Adaptive InkSystem). The AiS™ provides the customerflexibility touse ink of their choice to address his various issues oflogistics, procurement, colour consistency, etc.ColorJethas always strived to support their partners by bringingtechnological modifications by fine tuning the machineas per the inks.The new Vastrajet®- 8164 also comesequipped with AIVC™ technology which providesconsistent print performance at varying environmentalconditions.

With these technological innovations and additionalrefinements, the Vastrajet®- 8164 is in true sense, acommercial winner."Being the leader of textile digitalprinting industry in India it comes as aresponsibility forus to create state of the art products while keeping inmind the demands of the customers and ColorJet isdedicated to being at the forefront of fulfilling cus-tomer needs," Jitender Pal Singh Vice President (Tex-tiles) at ColorJet India said.

"When developing the Vastrajet® 8164, our R&D team

Colorjet to Launch 16 Head Vastrajet®Digital Textile Printer at ITMA 2019

aimed to increase productivity, performance, and reli-ability, which ultimately resulted in a product whoseperformance increased by up to 70 percent from itspredecessor, making it one of the fastest printers in themarket in this category," he added

ColorJet will also be demonstrating itshigh-speed Metro-8166 which delivers industrial-level production withspeeds of up to 294 sq. metre per hour. The Metro-8166 will be operated at ITMA 2019 on reactive ink,whereas the Vastrajet®- 8164 will be run on pigmentink on cotton blended fabrics.As per the latest IDCreport with more than 34% market share in India, whichis the second fastest growing digital textile printingindustry in the world, ColorJet gears up to command astrong position in the textile industry globally.

ColorJet supplies the very best in digital textile tech-nologies in the industry, whereby, ColorJet printers haveproduction speeds whichare 45% more than the near-est competition, takes up 47% lesser space and con-sumes 42% less power as compared to other ma-chines. Additionally, other digital textile printers con-sume 51 times more water as compared to ColorJetprinters, making it the most sought after brand with itsproducts starting at $59,000.These improvements andthe development of AiS™technology is further proofof ColorJet's commitment to address the global digitaltextile printingindustry's most urgent needs.

ColorJet India markets its products in 25 countriesworldwide and has installed and implemented over 4,000of its printing solutions and productsacross 450 citiesaround the world backed by a strong 278-member team,of which almost 100 are in technical related functions.

For more information please contact:Ms. Kareena ChoudharyMarketing ManagerColorJet India LimitedIndiaCell: +91 9910090306Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.comVisit: www.colorjetgroup.com.Ms. Kareena ChoudharyMarketing ManagerColorJet India LimitedIndiaCell: +91 9910090306Email: kareena@colorjetgroup.comColorjet to Launch 16 Head Vastrajet Digital TextilePrinter

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Danti Paolo brush/sueding machine model S1000NMfor high quality peaching effect on woven fabrics

IntroductionDanti Paolo, Italy, is a leading manufacturer of textilefinishing machines. Backed by a vast experience ofover 80 years, Danti Paolo manufactures state-of-the-art brush/sueding machines, raising machines, shearingmachines, and polishing machines. A.T.E. has beenrepresenting Danti Paolo in India since 2016 to providethe latest technology textile finishing machines to theIndian textile industry.

Danti Paolo machines are manufactured using highquality components like electronics from Siemens, bear-ings from SKF and first quality steel.

Peaching effectThe peaching effect is basically a surface abrasionthat gives the fabric a touch and feel similar to the skinof a peach: a soft hairy feeling, but without any hair.Peaching has become a popular trend for various typesof fabrics such as for clothing, technical textiles, andupholstery. The process of abrading the fabric surfaceto obtain the peaching effect is mainly done by twotypes of tools:◆ Emery: Normal emery (replaced by diamond

emery in the last 10 years) removes a layer offabric, attaching all those fibres present at thesame level. It is used for heavier peach effect.

◆ Abrasive brushes: Available in carbon, ceramicand other abrasive materials, these brushes give asofter effect and a more delicate peaching look.

Because of the different characteristics of these pro-cessing tools, most of the machinery manufacturersoffer two different kinds of machines: one machineusing only emery rollers and the other machine usingonly abrasive brushes.

Brush/sueding machine S1000NMDanti Paolo started manufacturing emery machines inthe early '70s and towards the end of the '90s they alsointroduced abrasive brush-based finishing machines.Through continuous improvements and developmentsin the machine/technology, the company introduced thelatest model S1000NM brush/sueding machine, com-bining diamond emery roller and abrasive brush. This

Danti Paolo manufactures state-of-the-artbrush/sueding machines

machine was developed based on customer feedbackand hence is perfectly designed to meet all customerrequirements. Some of the issues faced in the conven-tional machines such loss of tear strength, colour shadevariation, and pilling effect are squarely addressed inthis machine, leading to high quality output.

Features:◆ 6 independent units, composed of:

Abrasive brush or diamond emery roller, indepen-dently driven by inverterApproaching roller to set the contact of the fabricwith the abrasive brush or diamond emery rollerIndividual dust suction box for effective removalof dust4 dancing rollers/load cells for a perfect control ofthe fabric tension in every point of the machine.6 positions of the brushes are interchangeable asper the customer requirement.Inspection platform to check the fabric beforerolling on A-frameRemote troubleshooting by smartphone

Advantages:◆ High flexibility due to 6 independent units that can

be controlled separately and equipped with abra-sive brushes and diamond emery rollers

◆ High productivity due to more efficient use of thebrushes or of the diamond emery rollers

◆ High quality as a result of constant control of thefabric tension in every point of the machine

◆ Reliability due to high quality electronics andtroubleshooting by smartphone

◆ Possibility to process one or both faces of thefabric in one passage of the fabric from themachine

◆ Simple operation◆ Easy to troubleshoot◆ One single machine, instead of two different

machines◆ High efficiency

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Texttreasure

Reason, Observation, and Experience; TheHoly Trinity of Science.

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The fabric passage of the machine

Many Danti Paolo Brush/sueding machines S1000NMare already installed and working satisfactorily at thefollowing mills in India:

◆ Aarti International, Ludhiana◆ BKS Textiles, Erode◆ Dashmesh Weaving and Dyeing Mills, Ludhiana◆ Kudu Knit Process -Ludhiana◆ Ginza Industries, Surat◆ Shiva Texyarn, Coimbatore◆ PC Color Soft Fabrics, Kolkata

With numerous benefits, the Danti Paolo brush/suedingmachine S1000NM is rapidly gaining wide acceptabil-ity with many customers are switching to this latesttechnology machine.

One of Europe's largest denim producer, CandianiSpAhas won the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, heldin conjunction with ITMA 2019. Its innovative product,Candiani Re-Gen is a 'circular denim' fabric createdfrom regenerated and recycled raw materials.

Fifty per cent of the Re-Gen fabric comprises Tencelx RefibraLyocell made of pulp from cotton scraps andwood pulp using Lenzing's efficient closed-loop pro-cess; the other 50% consists of post-industrial recycledCandianifibres. Candiani's fabrics are also dyed usinggreen technologies, resulting in substantial reduction inthe use of water and chemicals in the fabric productionand jean washing process.

According to Mr. Alberto Candiani, President ofCandianiSpA, the fabric was created to commemorateCandiani's 80th anniversary. He said, "We are a strongbeliever in sustainability. In creating the Re-Gen fabric,we leveraged Lenzing'sTencelLyocellfibres with Refibratechnology, and combined it with our inhouse expertiseto create an innovative product that is fashionable andenvironmentally friendly at the same time."

Nominated for the award by ITMA 2019 exhibitorLenzing Ag, CandianiSpA received the trophy fromCEMATEX president Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, at a presen-tation ceremony on the opening day of ITMA 2019.

Mr. Mayer said, "We would like to congratulate bothCandiani and Lenzing for their excellent collaboration.CEMATEX launched the ITMA Sustainable Innova-tion Award in 2015 as we would like to encouragegreater industry collaboration and synergies, as well asspur more research and development efforts. Ultimately,we need innovation to drive our business and contrib-ute to a more circular economy."

The two other finalists of the ITMA Industry Excel-lence Award - Levi Strauss & Co, and Lee - were alsopraised for their efforts to introduce green innovations

DENIM maker Candiani SPA Clinches ITMA 2019Sustainable innovation Award

into their products and processes.

Winner of the first ITMA Sustainable Innovation Awardin 2015, Levi Strauss & Co launched FLX CustomisationStudio which revolutionalises in-store customisation byallowing customers to pick their denim finish and cre-ate a unique pair of jeans in less than two hours. Themobile studio uses sustainable garment finishing tech-nologies and operates on 100% recycled water. It le-verages ITMA exhibitor Jeanologia's water recyclingsystem, H2Zero.

Established denim jeans brand Lee leverages Tonello'sinnovative garment finishing system for its denim jeans.The All-in-One System combines four technologies thatdrastically reduces the water needed in the finishingstages of jean manufacturing thus reducing processingtime and total production cost.

Research & Innovation Excellence AwardThe ITMA Research & Innovation (R&I) ExcellenceAward for Master's students of R&I Pavilion exhibit-ing institutions is won by Mathias Zidda,InstitutFürTextiltechnik, RWTH Aachen University forhis thesis: Development of a gear driven 3D rotationalbraiding machine and its control concept. He receivesprize money of 10,000 euros.

The first runner up is MsSarika Sunil Borikar ofD.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute (the-sis: Sanitary Napkin: A Greener Approach), followedby Ms Pamela Massaccesi of Universidad De BuenosAires (thesis: TUTTI - Reusable Food Wrapping).

The ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award is one of thecomponents of ITMA Innovation Lab which brands aseries of activities promoting research and innovation.Other components are the Research and InnovationPavilion, Speakers Platform and the Innovation VideoShowcase.

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Electrostatic charges can cause a number of issuesduring textile production, such as dust attraction, shocks,sparks etc. These in turn can lead to potentially haz-ardous situations due to discomfort to operators andeven fires, as well as annoyances such as frequentinterruptions in production due to stoppages, reducedsliver/yarn evenness, quality issues on yarns and fabricetc. Hence, such bothersome electrostatic charges needto be neutralised. To address these problems, Valenceoffers many solutions for measurement and removal ofstatic charges.

Valence provides a range of electrostatic controlsolutions:1. Active static charge eliminators: These bars have

a row of electrodes across the active length.Positiveions are produced during the positive halfcycle and negative ions during the negative halfcycle of the power supply. These ions neutralisethe charges of opposite polarity on a fast movingtarget.

2. Static charge monitoring: The magnitude and di-rections of the electrostatic charges need to bemeasured for taking the most effective preventivemeasures. Valence's static charge meter is acompact, highly sensitive electrostatic surfacevoltmeter which is designed to locate and mea-sure surface voltage on stationary and movingobjects, people and equipment. It measures boththe magnitude and polarity of charges.

3. Electrostatic charging: A Valstat® charging elec-trode and high voltage (HV) generator togetherprovide a compact, sturdy, and efficient system

Electrostatic mysteries unraveled

for generating electrostatic charges for localisedand linear charging applications.

Valence's range of electrostatic control solutionsare suitable for textile applications such as:1. Carding: During carding, an oscillating comb or

rotary brush combs or a roller take off fibre fromthe doffing cylinder. This process creates a largeamount of static on the fibres, resulting in themclinging at the receiving part and in the deliverysection. Static charges can reduce machine speedsand result in frequent stoppages which result inloss of productivity. This can be easily preventedwith Valence's Valstat® active static eliminatingbars.

2. Warping: In warping, static charges are generatedon yarns and filaments due to unwinding andseparation of fibres from the bobbins while pass-ing through (contact) and coming out (separation)of the eyelets and combs. The machine has to bethen slowed down to avoid breakage of the yarnor filament, poor warping, and overlapping of theyarn or filament on the warp beam. Valence'sValstat® active static eliminating bars will enhanceproductivity by effectively neutralising the staticcharges on the fibres.

3. Beam sizing: Static charges are generated on theyarn in the sizing process. This result in operatorhazard, adhesion to the rollers, contamination, webwander, etc.

4. Batching and plaiting: During the batching or plait-ing processes on a stenter and other fabric pro-cessing machines, static charges are generatedon the fabric due to contact and separation offabric from rolls and changes in temperature.Excessive static charges on fabrics causes thefabric to adhere to the rollers, web wander, anddust attraction, improper plaiting, etc. These is-sues can be addressed by the Valence's Valstat®active static eliminating bars.

5. J scrays etc: Valstat®antistatic bars eliminate is-

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sues like adhesion of fabric to rollers, operatorhazard, dust attraction, etc., in the J scrays ofstenters, drying ranges, printing machines,sanforisers, or mercerisers.

For creating controlled levels of electrostatic chargesin certain textile processes, Valence offers electrostaticcharging electrodes powered by high voltage (HV) DCcharging generators.

Flocking: Through a rotary flock hopper, flocks fallfreely onto a fabric. This results in the clogging offlocks and an uneven layer of the fibres on the fabric,eventually leading to rejection. The Valence Valstat®HV charging generator creates a controlled high volt-age that is supplied to the grid. This HV induces theappropriate electrostatic charges to the flocks and ori-ents the flocks perpendicularly when they fall. Thisensures a dense and pile-like finish.

Apart from these, Valence's electrostatic control solu-tions can be effectively used in other textile applica-tions such as peaching machines, fabric inspection andfolding machines, compacting machines, draw frames,and others.

Mr. Ashok Sethuram, Director, Valence Electrons, said,"A.T.E.'s presence in the textile market for over eightdecades has helped to build a close and constant con-nect with OEMs and end users. It enables us to betterunderstand customer requirements. This learning in turnhas given an impetus to our product development ef-forts. We have a strong hardware and software devel-opment team working closely with application special-ists, who ensure that a 'close fit' solution is found forimproving productivity, safety and quality. We are proudto say that all our products are not only manufacturedbut also designed in India, ensuring high quality importsubstitutes at affordable costs. Also, our pan-India after-sales service team provides prompt service. We are anISO 9001:2015 certified organization and work towardscontinual development. The textile industry in India hasevolved, and is forever on the lookout for thoughtfuland sophisticated engineering to compete effectively ata global level. In addition, safety, health and environ-ment concerns are getting more and more important."

Headquartered in Bengaluru, India, Valence Electronsis an A.T.E. Group company that provides world-classindigenous solutions for managing static electricity, inkhandling, surface cleaning, and heat recovery in vari-ous industrial applications. Valence Electrons' is com-mitted to providing innovative, customer-driven, andcost-effective solutions to the Indian textile industryfor improving productivity, safety and quality.

Mr. Ashok SethuramDirector, Valence Electrons

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The Textile Association (India) - Ahmedabad Unitorganised Felicitation function for Shri H. S. Patel,Member of Parliament of LokSabha Election 2019 on29th June, 2019 at Dinesh Hall, Ahmedabad.

Shri HasmukhbhaiSomabhai Patel, President of theTextile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit winedLokSabha Election 2019 from Ahmedabad East Con-stituency, Gujarat with margin of 4,34,330 votes.

At the felicitation function Shri T. L. Patel, Past Presi-dent, The Textile Association (India), Ahmedabad Unit;Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel,Member of Parliament;ChiefGuestShri PradeepsinhJadeja,Hon'ble Home Minister(Gujarat State), Guest of HonourShri Shankerbhai R.Patel,Chairman - Green Environment Services Co-opSociety Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat; and Shri Ashok Bhagat,Vice President, The Textile Association (India),Ahmedabad Unitwere on the dais.Function started withthe lightening of the lamp by Chief Guest and dignitar-ies.

Felicitation of Hon'ble Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel

Shri T. L. Patel, Past President, The Textile Associa-tion (India), Ahmedabad Unit welcomed all the digni-taries and the present audience. He briefed in hiswelcome address about the Textile Association (India)and the TAI Ahmedabad Unit. A short video film wasdisplayed showing the activities of TAI and the devel-opments of Dinesh Hall. He welcomed ShriShriHasmukhbhai S. Patel, Member of Parliament;Chief Guest Shri PradeepsinhJadeja, Hon'ble HomeMinister (Gujarat State), Guest of Honour ShriShankerbhai R. Patel, Chairman - Green EnvironmentServices Co-op Society Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat with thefloral bouquet and memento.

Shri T. L. Patel, Past President, The Textile Associa-tion (India), Ahmedabad Unit welcomed all the digni-taries and the present audience. He briefed in hiswelcome address about the Textile Association (India)and the TAI Ahmedabad Unit. A short video film wasdisplayed showing the activities of TAI and the devel-opments of Dinesh Hall. He welcomed ShriShriHasmukhbhai S. Patel, Member of Parliament;Chief Guest Shri PradeepsinhJadeja, Hon'ble HomeMinister (Gujarat State), Guest of Honour ShriShankerbhai R. Patel, Chairman - Green EnvironmentServices Co-op Society Ltd, Vatva, Gujarat with thefloral bouquet and memento.

Shri T. L. Patel briefed about Shri Hasmukhbhai S.Patel and for his scaling heights in the political field.He mentioned that Shri H. S. Patel, textile diploma inTextile Manufacturing has involved in different kind ofsocial activities even he started his own business.

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Shri Hasmukhbhai Patel was Municipal Councilor,Ahmedabad during 2005 to 2010, Chairman, EstateManagement Committee for 2.5 Years, Chairman, WaterSupply & Sewage Committee for 2.5 Years. Then hewas MLA, AmraiwadiVidhansabha, Gujarat during 2012to 2017 and now he is MP (Member of Parliament)from Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat State.

Guest of Honour Shri Shankerbhai R. Patel, Chairman- Green Environment Services Co-op Society Ltd,Vatva, Gujarat congratulated Shri Hasmukhbhai Patelfor winning with big margin as Member of Parliamentand requested him to pursue the problems and theneed of Gujarat region in the Sansad.

Chief Guest Shri PradeepsinhJadeja, Hon'ble HomeMinister (Gujarat State) congratulated ShriHasmukhbhai. He mentioned the Shri Hasmukhbhai isvery dynamic young, sincere, hardworking and honest

in his work and for this quality nature he was selectedas Member of Parliament from Gujarat. He furthermentioned that Shri Hasmukhbhai will surely fulfill histenure successfully.

Thereafter, Shri Hasmukhbhai thanked the TextileAssociation (India), Ahmedabad Unit for organizing thisFelicitation Function and also thanked all for showingconfidence and faith on him electing for LokSabhaElection 2019. He further briefed about his journeyfrom Textile qualification to owner of textile industryand then in the field of politics. He emphasized on theresponsibility and the hard work which is very difficultto deliver. Now as a Member of Parliament it will bemore for Nation along with Gujarat State.

For the felicitation function more than 700 membersincluding industrialists, well-wishers, members of vari-ous Organizations & Associations were present tocongratulate and bless to Shri Hasmukhbhai S. Patel.Lastly, Shri Ashok Bhagat proposed a vote of thanks.

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Raise your profile in globaltechnical textiles

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Shri Hasmukhbhai Somabhai Patel elected as Memberof Parliament (BJP) from Ahmedabad East Constitu-ency, Gujarat.

Shri Hasmukhbhai Somabhai Patel, President of theTextile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit winedLokSabha Election 2019 from Ahmedabad East Con-stituency, Gujarat with margin of 4,34,330 votes.

Shri H. S. Patel did diploma in Textile Manufacturingfrom RCTI, Ahmedabad in 1982. After education heinvolved different kind of social activities even he startedhis own business as he is a textile technocrats.

Presently he is Director of NainitaCotspinPvt. Ltd. Inbetween he was also taken keen interest in politicalActivities. Since 2005 he joined as Municipal Council-lor, Ahmedabad and today he is MP (Member of Par-liament) of Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat.

Heartily Congratulations to Shri H. S. PatelPolitical Responsibilities:1. 2005 to 2010 Municipal Councillor, Ahmedabad

◆ Chairman, Estate Management Committee-2.5 Yrs.

◆ Chairman, Water Supply & Sewage Com-mittee- 2.5 Yrs.

2. 2010 to 2015 Municipal Councillor, Ahmedabad◆ Chairman, Housing Improvement & EWS -

2.5 Yrs.3. 2012 to 2017 as a MLA, AmraiwadiVidhansabha,

Gujarat4. 2017 to May 2019 as a MLA,

AmraiwadiVidhansabha, Gujarat.5. June 2019 to till date as a MP (Member of Par-

liament) Ahmedabad East Constituency, Gujarat

Additional Responsibilities:1. Trustee - Bharat VikasParisad, Vatva Branch,

Ahmedabad.2. President- The Textile Association (India)

Ahmedabad Unit.3. Governing Council Member - The Textile Asso-

ciation (India)4. Member - SakhSamiti, Kalupur Bank, Kathwada

Branch, Ahmedabad.5. Former Director- The Green Environment Ser-

vices Co-op Society Ltd., GIDC Vatva,Ahmedabad.

All members of The Textile Association (India) heart-ily congratulate toShri HasmukhbhaiSomabhai Patel,President, the Textile Association (India), AhmedabadUnit.

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A focus on customer service, aligned with the drive toconstantly innovate, has long ensured that the membercompanies of TMAS - the Swedish texile machinerymanufacturers' association - stay well ahead of thecurve.

"All of the Swed-ish textile machin-ery companies aredoing really well inmajor markets suchas Europe, China,India and theUSA," says TMASSecretary GeneralTherese Premler-Andersson. "Theyare now gathering

forces to prepare for the most important show - ITMA2019 in Barcelona in June. I expect to see new playersand partnerships as we enter the industry 4.0 era forreal. We are ready to display an even higher degree ofthe real time monitoring of processes, automation, flex-ible customisation, and the incorporation of robots intoproduction lines. Our customers expect a lot of interms of knowledge and our ability to customise andoffer turnkey solutions."

The forward-looking attitude of the Swedish compa-nies is perhaps best summed up by ReimarWesterlind,the owner, since 1961, of ACG Gruppen. At the age of90, Reimar still travels to his office every day to over-see the operations of the diverse companies operatingunder the ACG umbrella.

"Everything now is about automation and digitisation,"he says. "We have to be on that track or we will belost - innovate or die."

RoboticsOne ACG Gruppen company moving rapidly forwardwith new innovations in this area is ACG Kinna, whichat ITMA 2019 will be providing dramatic live demon-strations of its new robotic pillow filling system.

This has the ability to fill and finish some 3,840 pillowsper eight-hour shift, which is a considerable improve-ment on what is currently possible with existing sys-tems, resulting in significant savings in both labour andenergy for busy home textile businesses.

Innovate or die - TMAS at ITMA 2019"There has been much talk about the potential of In-dustry 4.0 enabled by advanced software, but I believewe are at the forefront of pioneering it in the textileindustry," says ACG Kinna CEO Christian Moore. "Theuse of robotics is now standard across many industriesdealing in solid goods, but the handling of soft materialssuch as textiles is a little more complex. Nevertheless,we have already begun commercial shipments of ournew system and we believe it will make a real splashat ITMA 2019."

"Successful Swedish brands such as IKEA and H&Mensure that we are constantly on our toes and thislatest technological breakthrough from ACG KinnaAutomatic is a good example of how Industry 4.0 ishelping our companies to further develop their prod-ucts," adds TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. "The latest Eton Systems concepts for fullyautomated work flows in finished garments and textile-based products are another strong example of this."

At ITMA 2019, Eton will be demonstrating a completematerial handling solution with advanced software pro-viding real-time information covering every aspect ofthe process.

"Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now be-ing constructed worldwide for sectors such as thegarment and home textiles manufacturing and automo-tive industries," says Eton's Sales and CommercialDirector Roger Ryrlén.

SensorsAdvanced senor developments are playing a large partin moving many areas of the textile industry forwardtoo.

Eltex of Sweden, for example, is achieving consider-able success with its yarn fault detection and tensionmonitoring systems across a range of sectors, includingthe tufting of carpets, the creeling of woven materialsand even the production of woven reinforcements forthe composites industry.

"Unlike scanning inspection systems, we are monitor-ing each individual yarn position in real time," saysEltexmanaging director Brian Hicks. "As a consequence,we have concentrated on the further miniaturisation of

TMAS Secretary General TheresePremlerAndersson

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our sensors, as will be demonstrated at ITMA 2019."

At successive ITMA shows, IRO AB has also consis-tently introduced new milestones in the field of yarnfeeding technology for weaving machines, and ITMA2019 will be no exception.

"Following significant investment in our R&D capabili-ties, we have been making great progress in furtherboosting the efficiency and performance of our ex-panding X3 range," says IRO AB Managing Directorand Chairman of TMAS Mikael Äremann. "I can'tremember a time since the 1980s when we had somany new innovations to unveil at an ITMA, and I'mgreatly looking forward to the positive response to themwe are anticipating in Barcelona this June."

Resource savings

L to R: (Clockwise):Texo AB wide-width weavingtechnology, Baldwin's new TexCoat G4, the latest biascutting system for technical textiles from Svegea, Eton'sadvanced material handling solutions, the Eltex EYEyarn fault detection system on a synthetic grass line,

and robotic handling from ACG Kinna.

ITMA 2019 will meanwhile see the launch of TexCoatG4 - the next generation of Baldwin Technology's non-contact precision application system for fabric finish-ing. The TexCoat G4 enables a continuously high-qual-ity and productive textile finishing process with zerochemistry waste and minimised water and energy con-sumption.

The non-contact spray technology brings a range ofadvantages including single or double-sided application,the elimination of Foulard bath contamination, low wetpick-up levels leading to the elimination of drying steps,zero chemistry waste in changeovers of chemistry,colour or fabric, and the possibility of batch reporting,

visibility of pad loading, chemical usage etc.

"We are immensely proud to be launching the TexCoatG4 at ITMA 2019," says Eric Norling, Baldwin's seg-ment leader for precision application technology. "Thisis an opportunity to assess innovation-enhancing pro-ductivity, while saving valuable resources and contrib-uting to a sustainable future. The TexCoat G4 canprocess a wide range of low-viscosity water-basedchemicals, such as water-repellents, softeners, anti-microbial and more."

Other TMAS companies exhibiting in Barcelona in-clude Texo AB, whose wide-width weaving looms makethe belts for machines on which half of the world'spaper is made, ES-Automatex, which specialises inbespoke automation concepts and Svegea, a companyleading the field in a number colarette machines andcutting and slitting equipment.

"At the last ITMA in 2015 in Milan, there was muchtalk about Industry 4.0 technologies but certainly fromthe perspective of TMAS, ITMA 2019 will be theplace for concrete solutions as to how data and thenew tools we have available can be exploited to thefull," says Therese Premler-Andersson. "There is al-ready much more networking between the companies,with software very much the enabler and commoninterfaces bringing ideas closer together. We are greatlylooking forward to further exchanges of ideas whenmeeting with customers old and new in Barcelona."

Members of the Textile Machinery Associationof Sweden at ITMA 2019:ACG Kinna Automatic AB H3 D239 kinnaautomatic.comBaldwin Technology AB H2 A204 baldwintech.comEltex of Sweden AB H4 B102 eltex.seES Automatex Solution AB H3 C250 automatex.comEton Systems AB H2 A214 etonsystems.comIRO AB H4 A206b iroab.comSvegea of Sweden AB H3 D250 svegea.seTexo AB H5 A101 texo.se

For further information please contact:Therese PremlerAndersson,TMASBox 5510,114 85 Stockholm,SwedenPhone: +46 8-782 08 50E-mail: tmas@tebab.comwww.tmas.se

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China's car sales plunge in MayChina's car sales fell by nearly a fifth in May as con-sumers in the world's largest vehicle market remainreluctant to make new purchases due to new emis-sions rules and concerns over the slowing economy,reported the Financial Times.

Passenger vehicles sales fell 17.4% in May comparedto the same month last year, following a 17.7% declinein April, according to wholesale data from the ChinaAssociation of Automobile Manufacturers.

In the overall market, vehicle sales fell 16.4% in May,their fastest year-on-year decline on record, mainlydue to a sharp drop in sales of commercial vehiclessuch as buses and trucks, which fell 11.8%, the asso-ciation said.

China's passenger vehicle market shrunk for the firsttime since the 1990s last year, due to a reduction insubsidies for buyers and an economic slowdown whichknocked consumer confidence, hitting revenue for theworld's largest carmakers such as GM and Volkswagen.GM's China sales decreased 17.5% in the first quarterof 2019.

Huawei asks Verizon to pay over $1 billion for230 patentsHuawei Technologies Co Ltd has told Verizon Com-munications Inc that the US carrier should pay licens-ing fees for more than 230 of the Chinese telecomsequipment maker's patents and in aggregate is seekingmore than $1 billion, reported Reuters.

Verizon should pay to "solve the patent licensing issue,"a Huawei intellectual property licensing executive wrotein February, reported the Wall Street Journal. Thepatents cover network equipment for more than 20 ofthe company's vendors including major US tech firmsbut those vendors would indemnify Verizon, Reuterssources said.

Companies involved, including Verizon have notified theUS government as the dispute comes amid a growingtrade feud between China and the United States.

The White House Office of Management and Budgethas told the US Congress it will now meet a two-yeardeadline to ban federal contracts with companies thatdo business with Chinese telecoms giant Huawei, as

International Business Newspart of a defense law passed last year, according to aletter seen by Reuters.

"Congress has made it clear in recent days the impor-tance of implementing the law within the two yearsprovided, and we will," Russ Vought, the acting direc-tor of OMB, said in the letter addressed to SenatorJames Inhofe, chairman of the Senate Armed ServicesCommittee.

China's credit growth edges up in MayChinese banks made more loans in May to counterslowing economic growth, but demand for businesscredit remained sluggish and suggested the need forfurther policy easing, reported Caixin.

In May, banks made RMB 1.18 trillion ($170.5 billion)in net new loans, up from RMB 1.02 trillion in theprevious month, according to the data. Of the RMB1.18 trillion, 56.1%, or RMB 662.5 billion, went to thehousehold sector, up from April's 51.5%.

China's total social financing, a broad measure of creditand liquidity in the economy, grew by a net RMB 1.4trillion in May, slightly higher than a net increase ofRMB 1.36 trillion the month before, according to cen-tral bank data.

China speeds up introduction of credit-scoring systemChina said it is speeding up the establishment of acredit-scoring system for market entities, vowing tostringently protect commercial secrets and personalprivacy, according to a State Council announcement,said the Wall Street Journal.

The Chinese cabinet agreed at the meeting that thecountry will establish, in accordance with the law,authoritative, unified and accessible credit records ofall market players based on their unified social creditcodes. Government departments are required to sharethe information as permitted by law to break the infor-mation monopoly and information storing. No govern-ment agencies should repeatedly ask market players toprovide the same information that can be shared.

The Chinese cabinet said it is also working on a black-list of dishonest market entities and will punish themaccordingly until they are forced out of the market.The system will also be powered by the internet andbig-data technologies, it said.

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Separately, the State Council pledged to sign free tradeagreements with more countries and regions. It alsoplans to expand a cross-border e-commerce pilot pro-gram as part of an effort to boost exports.

China infrastructure stocks climb as Beijing of-fers supportChinese infrastructure-related stocks jumped on Tues-day after Beijing encouraged local governments to usespecial bonds for major projects in a bid to supporteconomic growth, said the Financial Times.

The CSI 300 index of Shanghai and Shenzhen-listedcompanies was up 2.3% to a near four-week high atthe lunch break on Tuesday as construction and rail-way stocks posted the largest gains.

State news agency Xinhua said on Monday that local

governments and financial institutions were "encour-aged to use special bonds and other market-based fi-nancing methods to support key areas and majorprojects."

"Amid renewed trade uncertainty, these new measuresthat are being introduced to support infrastructure in-vestment demonstrate the government's incrementalefforts to counter downside risks, by mitigating anyfinancing bottleneck for infrastructure investment inthe coming months," said Goldman Sachs economists.

For your information.Compiled & Sourced byMr. Arvind SinhaPresident 2018-2020Global Textile Welfare Association

Since its launch in 1951, ITMA has enjoyed wide in-dustry recognition as the world's largest textile andgarment technology exhibition. This year's exhibition inBarcelona sees its reputation solidify further with thelargest gathering of exhibitors in its history. The recordnumber of exhibitors totaling 1,717 from 45 countrieshas set a new milestone.

Speaking at the press conference on the opening dayof the 18th edition of the exhibition, Mr. Fritz P. Mayer,President of the European Committee of Textile Ma-chinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), said: "The globaleconomy is still facing challenges, accentuated by tradetensions and disruption. However, textile being theworld's oldest manufacturing industry has demonstratedits resilience over the years.

"This is also the spirit of our exhibitors who continually

ITMA 2019 sets new record withbiggest number of exhibitors

innovate and launch new technologies and solutions.We are glad that ITMA has been providing a reputableplatform for textile machinery manufacturers to mar-ket their innovations. This has enabled us to record thelargest number of exhibitors in ITMA's history."

The exhibits are showcased over 114,500 square metresof net exhibit space, a 9 per cent increase over theprevious edition in 2015. The exhibition occupies allnine halls of the Gran Via venue, including the spaceunder the linkway. To allow more companies to partici-pate, many exhibitors were allocated lesser stand spacethan what they had originally applied for.

Mr. Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services,organiser of ITMA 2019 enthused: "The exhibitionwould have been larger if we had not turned awayapplicants due to a lack of space. Unfortunately, wecould not accommodate a wait-list of about 250 appli-cants who booked some 8,200 square metres."

He added: "ITMA has also evolved into a more inter-national exhibition with a rich diversity of technologyofferings from both East and West. Almost half of thetotal number of exhibitors are from non CEMATEXcountries. This augurs well for the development ofITMA into a definitive textile and garment platform forthe industry."

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International participationOf the total number of exhibitors, over half are fromCEMATEX countries; the balance comprising compa-nies from other parts of Europe, Asia, the Middle Eastand the Americas.

Reflecting the international composition of the partici-pants, the largest number of exhibitors are from Italy(364 exhibitors), China (276 exhibitors), Germany (222exhibitors), India (169 exhibitors) and Turkey (164exhibitors).

CEMATEX countries continue to occupy the largestexhibit space, taking up 65% of the total net exhibitspace. Italy booked 26% of the space, followed byGermany which booked 18%. The top non-CEMATEXcountries are: Turkey with 9%, China with 8%, andIndia with 5% of the space booked.

Product sectorsVisitors can expect to source a wide range of inte-grated solutions across the entire value chain in 19exhibit sectors. Printing, which has seen many advancesbeing made in the last few years, is an exciting growthsector. Chalking up a 38 per cent increase in the num-ber of exhibitors compared with the previous exhibi-tion, it is one of the top five sectors at ITMA 2019:

◆ Finishing - 325 exhibitors

◆ Spinning - 281 exhibitors

◆ Weaving - 182 exhibitors

◆ Printing - 157 exhibitors

◆ Knitting - 136 exhibitors

Nonwovens and technical textiles sectors due to theirwide range of applications continue to be an importantsector at ITMA 2019. Garment making, which hasbeen impacted by digitalization and fast fashion, is alsomaking a bigger impact at ITMA.

Mr. Mayer said, "We are extremely pleased to bringgarment technology back in focus at ITMA. WhileITMA has been traditionally strong in textile makingtechnologies, we are glad that we are able to presentgarment making solutions from some of the world'smost renowned technology providers. There is an in-

crease of 27 per cent in number of exhibitors as com-pared with ITMA 2015."

Completing the entire value chain is the showcase onfibres, yarn and fabrics. The addition of innovativefabrics in the fibre and yarn chapter at ITMA furthercompletes the sourcing experience for buyers.

Focus on innovationThe theme of ITMA 2019 is 'Innovating the World ofTextiles'. To support the innovation drive, CEMATEXhas introduced the ITMA Innovation Lab. A newumbrella branding of a series of activities, the Labincludes the Research and Innovation Pavilion, ITMASpeakers Platform, ITMA Sustainable Innovation Awardand Innovation Video Showcase. Speakers from theindustry have been invited to share their perspectivesand experiences at the Speakers Platform which willbe held from 21 to 25 June. A finance forum will alsobe held on 21 June.

Co-located events and industry engagementTo encourage the exchange of knowledge, collabora-tion and networking, several events are staged along-side ITMA 2019.

The ITMA-EDANA Nonwovens Forum and TextileColourant and Chemical Leaders Forum have met withoverwhelming response and seats have been added.Similar strong response has also been received bypartner events, including the Better Cotton InitiativeSeminar, European Digital Textile Conference, Tex-Summit Global, Planet Textiles, SAC & ZDHC Manu-facturer Forum and Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

"The series of co-located events is part of ITMA'soutreach programme to engage industry partners andto create an inclusive platform for the global textile andgarment community. We have over 190 international,regional and local organisations lending their support toour exhibition," Mr Mayer said.

ITMA 2019 is held at Fira de Barcelona Gran Viavenue till 26 June. The opening hours are from 10.00amto 6.00pm daily, except 26 June when the exhibitionwill end at 4.00pm. For more information, please visitwww.itma.com or download the ITMA 2019 app.

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Herzog: Organic start of Industry 4.0 scenarioswith an appMahlo: Better production results with digital helpLindauer DORNIER: An addition to personalizedservices

During VDMA press conference themed "ITMAcountdown"in Frankfurt, speakers from member com-panies Lindauer DORNIER, Herzog and Mahloshowedhow Industry 4.0 solutions are going to impact thetextile process chain and what technologies visitors canexpect to see at ITMA 2019. The products examplesof the respective companies made clear that Industry4.0 is no end in itself but helps to improve productionprocesses and results and supplements the range ofservices.

Organic start with an appDr. Janpeter Horn, CEO of Herzog, the leading com-pany in braiding technology, introduced the company'slatest Industry 4.0. Product: An app-box with whichthe customer can easily access the data of Herzog andother machines, e.g. on a PLC (Programmable LogicController). The data can be visualised on dashboardscreated by the customer on terminals or others. Thedata can be processed, e.g. by creating key figures,alarms or analyses. Dr. Horn said: "Starting with In-dustry 4.0 does not necessarily mean to end up in ahuge project and to employ software and consultantteams. We are offering an organic start into Industry4.0 scenarios."

To realise this lean approach, the solution makes use ofcloud technologies on the shop floor; open source tech-nologies for inexpensive apps; no internet connection isnecessary. The main advantage however is the "one-click" installation of apps which have been applicableonly for smartphones and tablets.

Better production results with digital helpAccording to Rainer Mestermann, Managing Directorof Mahlo, collecting and processing data for betterproduction results is a basic idea of Industry 4.0. Mahlodevelops and produces measurement and control equip-ment for the textile and nonwoven industry. A newplatform from Mahlo realises the ideas of Industry 4.0with digital technologies. In the digitization concept forall Mahlo products, the functionalities are grouped,optimized and standardized as "services". This resultsin modular hardware and software function blocks thatcan also be retrofitted. There are modulese.g. for theacquisition and processing of measured values, forcontrol tasks or for the long-term archiving, data log-

ITMA Countdown - Focus Industry 4.0ging and analysis.One example is the control module inMahlo's weft straighteners. The distortion control wasrevised and digitised.Optimised hardware and softwareresulted in a faster and more efficient controller. Mr.Mestermann explains:"Evaluations confirmed by cus-tomers prove that the control module regulates 20percent faster and more precisely than before. Betterstraightening results reduce the production of second-choice goods and the need to pass the same fabricthrough the stenter several times."

An addition to personalized services"Even in a 4.0 future, personal installation and mainte-nance support will remain an indispensable part ofservices but the portfolio will be supplemented by digi-tal solutions", stated Peter D. Dornier, CEO of LindauerDORNIER.The company is technology leader in weav-ing machines. At ITMA 2019, Lindauer DORNIERwill present a new customer portal. The portal is basedon state-of-the-art database technology and will pro-vide an online shop with permanent availability fororiginal parts for all product lines. Remote maintenanceand networking of weaving machines - to improve runcharacteristics, for example - will also be possible infuture via the new customer portal. The focus of thissolution is on people: Its purpose is to make the job ofmachine operators and production planners easier.

Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director of the VDMATextile Machinery Association, summarised: "The fu-ture success of the textile industry is more and moredetermined by Industry 4.0. As seen today, Industry4.0 has many dimensions and possible fields of appli-cation. In Smart Services,Operations and Factory, keysolutions are provided by the machinery industry.Today's presentations are just a few examples for in-novative Industry 4.0 solutions. At ITMA in Barcelona,visitors will have the chance to see the whole range ofI4.0 and other innovative solutions offered by VDMAmember companies."

With regard to ITMA 2019, the VDMA published twointerviewswith experts from 16 member companiespresenting their latest Industry 4.0technologies.

ITMA press conference of the VDMA Textile Ma-chinery Association in Barcelona will be on20 June2019, 1:00 - 2:00 PM, Conference Room 1.2 in CC1.

For More Questions, contact:Mr. Nicolai StrauchPhone +49 69 6603 1366, +49 69 6603 2366,E-mail: nicolai.strauch@vdma.org

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Grasim Industries limited, a flagship company of AdityaBirla Group (ABG), which ranks amongst India's larg-est private sector conglomerate and a global player inViscose Staple Fibre (VSF),has added Rieter's latestair-jet spinning machine J 26 at Textile Research andDevelopment Centre (TRADC) in Kharach, Gujarat(India). This leadsto a joint cooperation to explore theproduction of best quality air-jet spun yarns and fabricsmade from VSFof Grasimand its blends.

The joint co-operation between Grasim and Rieter willprovide benefits both in downstream processing and inthe fabric. The conducted trials and development workresults in distinct end products with yarns spun frommature technologies and sustainable fibers.

Joint cooperation between Grasim and Rieter

The state of the art TRADC is a pilot plant involvedin addressing the downstream textile value chain andto provide comprehensive Research and Development(R&D) for all the VSF manufacturing units belongingto the ABG conglomerate.

The technology center helps upholding ABG's strongcommitment towards contributing technological advance-ments and producing eco-sustainable products.TRADC's Lifestyle Studio, which displays fabrics andgarments primarily made of VSF of Grasim, is anadditional highlight in the technology center.

The Rieter air-jet spinning machine J 26 includes uniquecharacteristics that differentiate it from other air-jetmachines.This machine coupled with industry bench-mark autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 50 guaranteesthe perfect combination of spinning preparatory andendspinning system. The unique Com4®jet yarn structurethat excels by its low pilling tendency, high washingresistance and dimensional stability offers great poten-tial in the development of new, innovative products.

www.rieter.com

KARL MAYER, the innovative market leader, ispleased with a great deal of visitor interest dur-ing ITMA, 20. - 26. 06. 2019 in Barcelona

KARL MAYER started successfully into the ITMAweek, its diverse exhibition area soon became theindustry's favourite meeting point. Nearly 1,000 visitorswere counted alone during the first four days. Theinternational guests were impressed by the modern

KARL MAYER had a great deal ofvisitor interest during ITMA

design of the stand and by the concept behind thepresentation.

At ITMA 2019, KARL MAYER invites the visitors toembark on a voyage of discovery through the textileworld of tomorrow.

An important issue in this context is digitization. "AtITMA in Barcelona it becomes clear again that thesector relies on digital solutions when it comes to pro-cess optimization and customer orientation. This is thereason why we are so happy about the lively responseto the new solutions of our software start-up KM.ON",says CEO Arno Gärtner.

Besides, with its exhibition, the innovative market leaderbuilds a bridge from the machine to the textile and itsapplications and, thus, hits the mark. "Our show aroundthe topic of ‚Future of Textiles'also attracts enormousinterest. During the discussions with our clients andguests it becomes evident that our concept with a focus

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on innovative textile application examples in addition toour machine innovations, is successful. The textile worldof experience offers inspiration for innovative applica-tion developments and thus approaches for new busi-ness opportunities ", explains Arno Gärtner with satis-faction.

The machine show impresses by highly efficient com-plete solutions for a production which will give thecustomers an important competitive edge also in thelong term: flexible, trendsetting machines with excel-lent cost:benefit ratios for use in warp knitting, innova-tions in warp sampling and direct warping for the warppreparation sector, a completely new machine for com-posite materials. The machines are the subject of manyspecific project discussions and requests.

Interest is also high in KARL MAYER's solutionsregarding the responsibility for the protection of theenvironment. "We specifically show the implementa-

tion of our strategic core topic "Sustainability and en-vironment" at different exhibition islands: from energy-efficient machines, via the processing of resource-sav-ing yarns up to sustainable warp-knitted fabrics andapplication concepts. One highlight is surely our ma-chine novelty concerning the topic of ‚SustainableDenim'", told Arno Gärtner in confidence.

In other words: A visit to KARL MAYER's Stand 8.0/B10 is always worthwhile.

Press ReleaseKARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbHBrühlstraße 2563179 ObertshausenEnquiries:Ulrike SchlenkerTel. 06104/402-274Fax 06104/402-73-274E-Mail: ulrike.schlenker@karlmayer.com

Taking another step towards sustainability, LIVA, in-gredient brand by Birla Cellulose launches a uniqueplantable garment tag (tag attached to each garmentacross retail stores of W). With the launch of theireco-enhanced variant Livaeco, Birla Cellulose'splantable tag wishes to create a positive environmentfootprint by introducing and engaging consumers witheco-friendly practices right from sourcing to the finaldegradation of the garment. It is as an initiative to bein the forefront of sustainable business practice andalso instill awareness amongst consumers about sus-tainable fashion. The tag is created using seed paperwhich is made from recycled biodegradable fibers. Postsoaking in water for 5-6 hours it gets ready to besowed in soil and placed under sunlight to ensure itsprouts in 5-6 days.

Livaeco enhances fluid fashion through the use of 100%sustainable forestry, lowest water consumption andgreenhouse gas emissions, fastest bio-degradability andtraceability of source. The goal of Livaeco is to en-gross customers with end-to-end eco-friendly and sus-tainable practices to safe guard the future of fashion.

Mr. Manohar Samuel, Senior President - Marketing,Birla Cellulose said, "It has become challenging forindustries to retain millennial attention towards thecurrent state of the environment. Being a part of the

LIVA promotes sustainability throughLivaecoplantable garment tag

eco-system, we have to work on all tangible and intan-gible aspects to bring in sustainability and consciousliving at every stage. We are launching our newestoffering Livaeco exclusively with W, which has cre-ated an exquisite collection that embodies our focus onsustainability and high fashion to delight the consum-ers. At Birla Cellulose, sustainability is a continuousjourney towards the wellbeing of all stakeholders andconserving nature."

Despite LIVA being an ingredient brand, Birla Cellu-lose has always found innovative ways of connectingwith the end consumer through activations and initia-tives like these. With green tag, they have provided agreat opportunity to the customers to contribute to theenvironment and be a part of the global cause of sus-tainable fashion.

For Further details, contact:◆ Preksha Jain: preksha@whitemarquesolutions.com

- 9920056000◆ Andrea Joseph:

andrea@whitemarquesolutions.com -9619068834

◆ GreeshmaNachane:greeshma@whitemarquesolutions.com -9920959673

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ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 was held during 15 to 19October at the new National Exhibition ConventionCentre (NECC) in Shanghai. This is one of the globaltextile exhibition held in Chine every alternate years.

Lakshmi Machine Works participatedand displayed itsindustry-leading range of machines that include: CardLC636, Drawframe LDF3, Comber LK69 machinesand SPINPACT - the Suction compact system. Therewere also live demonstrations of the company's tech-nology platform for its leading range of textile ma-chines - SPINCONNECT along with a entire range ofLMW components for the spinning industry on display.

LMW's Comber LK69 and Drawframe LDF3 weredemonstrated at 600 Nips per minute and at 550 Mpmrespectively for cotton-combed process. TheSpinConnect was displayed with the live data from oneof LMW's premier customer in China to whom LMWsupplied their machines.

LMW's display of key components include spindles,compact retrofit models, YBS and RSM models, rings,fluted rollers, cots and aprons. Also, other key compo-nents that Speedframe, Comber, Drawframe and Card-ing machines were also put on display - for customersto interact in depth with the LMW's team.

New features galoreAt ITMA Asia'18, LMW brought to the forefront, thenew features that have been incorporated in LMWComber LK69 machine: Servo drives for drafting, whichenables main draft adjustments through digital display,and a hank correction facility that helps achieve betterCV%. The Comber machine on display was fitted withan inverter-controlled main motor that enables effort-less change of machine speeds through the displayfacility itself.

LMW Drawframe LDF3 displayed two new features:A separate drive for coiler, which helps in better coilingand self-adjustment of coiling speed to suit the filling

LMW fulfilling roundup ITMA Asia Shanghaitype. Fan motors with inverter help achieve effectiveand optimum suction for different process. Even theaesthetically re-designed doors and covers of LDF3drew wide appreciation from the visitors.

LMW's Card LC636with 1.5 meters of working widthfor maximum utilization, and SpinConnect integrationreceived great appreciation at the event. The new agemanufacturing yields top-in-line quality and improvedprecision for long lasting value.

Great feedback, a testimony to quality and ser-viceITMA Asia'18 that concluded on 19th October was aplatform via which LMW showcased its capabilitiesand in turn was able to reach out to a wider customerbase in one of the biggest textile manufacturing regionsof the world, China. The visitors were from variouscountries that include Indonesia, Bangladesh, Vietnam,Pakistan, Iran, Nepal and several African and LatinAmerican countries. Overall, the reception has beenoverwhelmingly positive, with a bright future in sighttowards the company's further expansion in China, andother emerging markets.

Digital solutions in textile machinery considerably ex-tends the production possibilities and enhances theproduction processes. LMW's latest offerings in ad-vanced automation capabilities and digitization werewell-received by the industry visitors. Substantial praisefrom the visitors was registered towards LMW's rangeof machines that were on display. The clarity andpurposeful demonstrations won the hearts of the listen-ers, which has helped to receive more enquiries for theproducts from customers who came from the top tex-tile manufacturing hubs of the world.

More than 1,700 exhibitors from 28 countries haveparticipated in the sixth edition of this thriving eventheld biannually since 2008. The 5-day event saw en-gaging discussions and cross-pollination of ideas amongindustry players, who showed increasing interest to-wards including technology in their future leaps. LMWis once again delighted to have reached out to newerhorizons, as the company marches forward to a bold,connected future.

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The YARNMASTER PRISMA Opens up a NewWorld at ITMA 2019

Loepfe BrothersLtd. has been pioneering yarnclearing technologysince almost 30 years. AtITMA 2019,the Swisscompany presents a brand-new yarn clearer - theYarnMaster PRISMA. Withmulti-sensor measurementdesign and newfunctionalities this next generation ofyarn clear-ers will support spinners all around the worldinmastering daily quality control. For the firsttime,the YarnMaster PRISMA combines new andestablishedsensor technologies in one device.Four sensor technologiesinteract intelligently andensure unprecedentedfault visibility and data qual-ity. The unconventional newconcept addresses allyarn quality problems relatedto material and thespinning process with an universaland multi-di-mensional approach.

Four sensor technologies

Controlling the contamination in yarns is ofgreatestimportance to the spinners. The YarnMasterPRISMAutilizes a sensor for foreign matter detectionbased on abrand-new RGB-color measuring technol-ogy. The newRGB F-sensor illuminates the yarn in thefull spectrumof light, enabling the recognition of eventhe slightestdifference in shade and glossiness in anytype of yarnand color. The contamination of raw ma-

LOEPFE Presents Brand-New Yarn Clearer Generation

terial with whitepolypropylene from bale packaging isvery challenging.

To solve this difficult task, Loepfe developed theP4-Sensor, which utilizes the triboelectric effect. Thesensormeasures electric charge differences, whichare causedduring the winding process by different rawmaterials.This technology is able to detect contaminationwithwhite polypropylene very reliable. Beyondthese, a worldfirst dual measurement for basic clearingis presentedto the visitors. On the YarnMaster PRISMA,the twodominant sensor technologies in yarn clearingare inte-grated into one single sensing head. Thisunconventionalapproach to use an optical and a masssensor,functioning in perfect harmony, offersunprecedentedpossibilities and new levels of precisionin yarn clearing.

The fusion of four sensor technologies into onesinglesensing head -- YarnMaster PRISMA -guaranteespreviously unachieved performance andpossibilities inquality control during the winding pro-cess.

A world of connectivityThe heart of the innovative yarn clearing concept isthesimple and intuitive PRISMA operating system.Thenew PRISMA GUI offers a menu guidance by anintelligentwizard and enables straightforward andintuitiveoperation.

As an extra benefit, Loepfe's data managementsystemMillMaster TOP 2.0 is an integral part of thenewYarn Master PRISMA and complements everyLoepfeyarn clearer installation. 100% online monitor-ing ofquality data produced by the yarn clearers re-duces theneed for routine laboratory tests. Effectiveonline qualitymanagement is one of the key successfactors for windingand results in efficiency and lowercosts.

For more information, please contact:Loepfe Brothers Ltd.Kastellstrasse 108623 Wetzikon / Switzerland+ 41 43 488 11 11marketing@loepfe.com www.loepfe.com

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Texttreasure

Research is to see what everybody has seen,and to think what nobody else has thought.

-Albert Szent-Gyorgyi

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"Kim Glas, new the president and CEO of the NationalCouncil of Textile Organisations since April 2019, hasset a definite goal to revive the flagging Americantextile industry. She notes the American industry in thelast few years has seen a remarkable uptick in em-ployment with the industry currently employing 600,000workers across the supply chain. In 2018, around594,147 people were employed in the textile chain andthe country's textile and apparel shipments during theyear added up to $76.8 billion."

Kim Glas, new the presidentand CEO of the NationalCouncil of TextileOrganisations since April2019, has set a definite goalto revive the flagging Ameri-can textile industry. Shenotes the American industry

in the last few years has seen a remarkable uptick inemployment with the industry currently employing600,000 workers across the supply chain.

In 2018, around 594,147 people were employed in thetextile chain and the country's textile and apparel ship-ments during the year added up to $76.8 billion. Thekey market for yarns and fabrics, the Western Hemi-sphere, is seeing strong growth trends with the FDI inthe market increasing.

The industry is also witnessing an increasing emphasison innovation with $22.8 billion being invested in newplants and equipment from 2006-2017. The US manu-facturers recently opened new facilities across the entiretextile production chain to convert waste materials intonew yarns and resins.

Focus on sustainability and reshoring

NCTO CEO KIM GLASto revive the AmericanTextile Industry

Glas' top focus is to inform the Congress, the admin-istration and key decision makers about key prioritiesinterms of legislation or trade policy. Glas also aims tofocus on developing the Western Hemisphere, a coretrade region that imports around 70 per cent of theyarns and fabrics that the country produces.

In addition, Glas, aims to focus on sustainability bymanufacturing more tenable products and revampingthe entire production process.

NCTO also plans to build a strong communicationsstrategy both for the industry and key decisions mak-ers in the government and beyond.

As the industry prioritises on reshoring manufacturingprocess for fiber, yarn and fabrics, a lot of apparelsuppliers in Los Angeles and New York are planning toexpand their operations to other regions. However, it isimportant for the industry to know the FDI flow in thecountry and number of jobs that are being created. Forthis, the country has proposed the U.S.-Mexico-CanadaAgreement, which continues the free-trade status withMexico and Canada and improves certain areas thatbenefit US producers.

Plans to regulate tariffsAs the tariffs being applied on US manufacturers sourc-ing of certain materials from China are resulting inadditional penalty and tighter profit margins, Glas looksto impose tariffs on finished items imported from China.

NCTO has also demanded fair and expeditious exclu-sions process as it doesn't believe that under the cur-rent framework the tariff process is absolutely correct.As per Klas, the process abuses intellectual propertyrights and it needs to properly balance the applicationof these tariffs on finished goods.

As per Commerce Department's Office of Textiles &Apparel figures, apparel sourcing has already diversi-fied across Asia, the Western Hemisphere, etc. Brandsand retailers are shifting over the uncertainty surroundnext round of tariffs and how it will hit them. Brandsexpect this to attract more interest either in the West-ern Hemisphere or with those that have trade benefitswith the US.

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"Clean Technology. Smart Factory."

Oerlikon invites all visitors to this year's ITMAin Barcelona on a jour-ney into the future ofmanmade fiber production. From 20 to 26 June2019, the world market leader will show all itsguests its vision of a sustainable and automatedmanmade fiber produc-tion in a virtual 4D show-room at its 1,000 m² stand in Hall 7, A101: "CleanTechnology. Smart Factory." is the motto of thefuture. And this is only a stone's throw away fromreality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon ispresenting four world premieres for efficient ma-chine and plant concepts in a new, innovativeindustrial design. Together with numerous otherinnovations, all this forms the new DNA of theOerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

The challenges for the manmade fiber industry aremanifold and Oerlikon shows its customers solutions:

1. Choosing the right business model

Price pressure on fiber and yarn manufacturers isgrowing due to global market consolidation. Here it isimportant to position oneself correctly. Are you pro-ducing polyester, nylon or polypropylene for the nichemarket and skimming off good margins with innovativeproducts and ingenious material properties, or are youlooking for business success through economies of scalein the volume market such as the constantly growingapparel sector? Oerlikon has the right answers for bothbusiness models.

And the most important thing: the market leader sup-plies all solutions from a single source. See for yourself

Oerlikon celebrates four world premieres atITMA Barcelona 2019

at the world premieres of the machine and systemconcepts of WINGS FDY PA6, BCF S8 Tricolor andthe revolutionary eAFKEvo texturing machine.

2. Finding alternatives for good personnelFinding good operators in the manmade fiber industryis becoming increasingly difficult, even in emerg-ingindustrial nations such as China, India and Turkey. Thesolution is obvious. What, for example, the automotiveindustry achieved years ago with the 3rd IndustrialRevolution is now also taking its course in the textileindustry. And at the same time it is even shifting up agear. In the next step, automation in combination withdigitization will lead to new, sustainable production.Oerlikon will be showing how au-tomation and digitiza-tion interact at ITMA. Self-learning machines andsystems, artificial intelligence (AI), remote services andedge computing are just a few of the key words in thedigital half of the new Oerlikon Manmade Fibers DNA.

3. Guarantee quality and traceabilityThe qualities of the fibers and yarns must meet thehighest demands and their production must be trace-able throughout the textile value chain. This no longeronly plays an important role in the automotive industry,where safety is of paramount importance. Otherbranches of industry that use fibers, yarns andnonwovens also want to know where the raw materi-als they produce for consumer articles come from.Legal regulations are demanding this more and morefrequently. Oerlikon offers optimal solutions with itsDIN ISO certified manufacturing processes. More thanhalf of the world's manmade fiber producers are con-vinced every day that the qualities produced onOerlikonBarmag, OerlikonNeumag and Oer-likon Non-woven equipment are right - and all visitors to ITMAcan do the same on site.

4. Efficient and sustainable productionIn the future, the materials produced from manmadefibers must become part of a further improvedglobalrecycling economy. The recycling of polyester - withover 80% market share the most frequentlyusedmanmade fiber in the world - has not only been on theagenda since today. Oerlikon already hassolutions athand: from PET bottles to fibers and filaments, to tex-tiles and carpets. ITMA is the next step.

With the VacuFil® Oerlikon in cooperation with thesubsidiary company BBEngineering presents theworld

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premiere No. 4 - a recycling solution within a runningpolyester production with a waste-free approach.

Vision becomes realityThe Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment thus demon-strates what the ITMA in Barcelona promises astheworld's leading trade fair for textile machinery andplant construction: "Innovating the world of textiles-sourcing for a sustainable future". In Hall 7, A101, thisis already reality.

For further information:André WissenbergMarketing, Corporate Communications& Public AffairsTel. +49 2191 67 2331Fax +49 2191 67 70 1313andre.wissenberg@oerlikon.comwww.oerlikon.com/manmade-fibers

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◆ News from the inventors of compacting◆ The most economical rotor direct process◆ Production of innovative yarns using the air-jet

spinning process◆ ESSENTIAL: New modules of the Rieter Digital

Spinning Suite◆ After Sales: Solutions for optimizing the installed

basis◆ Innovations from Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM

and Suessen

At ITMA 2019, Rieter showcases innovations for allfour spinning processes that are established on themarket. These innovations are designed to reduce rawmaterial, energy and labor costs, while also increasingproductivity during production of the yarn quality re-quired in each case. Solutions to increase the flexibilityof the spinning mill are also presented. In addition,Rieter presents two solutions for the production ofinnovative yarns.

Rieter at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona

Fiber preparationThe blowroomVARIOline with the new UNIClean B15 brings significant improvements in terms of energyconsumption and the cleaning result for all spinningprocesses. The same applies to the new high-perfor-mance card C 80, which offers an unrivaled level ofproductivity.

Ring and compact-spinning processTo increase the cost effectiveness of the ring spinningand compact spinning process, Rieter reveals the newcomber E 90, the new roving frame F 40, the piecingrobot ROBOspin and three different compacting unitsthat can easily be installed on and removed from a ringspinning machine: COMPACTdrum, COMPACTapronand COMPACTeasy.

Rotor spinning processInnovations that bring considerable improvements inefficiency for the rotor spinning process are also pre-sented. The draw frame module RSB-Module 50 canbe used in combination with the high-performance cardC 80 and can be configured to a highly efficient directprocess with the new semi-automated R 37 or the fullyautomated R 70. The new, cost-effective rotor spin-ning machines are characterized by low energy con-sumption, high productivity and high machine availabil-ity with low raw material costs.

Air-jet spinning processThere are innovations for the air-jet spinning processtoo: The process for producing a very attractive yarnmade of 100% combed cotton is presented. At theRieter booth, let yourself be convinced that this pro-cess is extremely cost-effective, despite the combedout short fiber content.

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ESSENTIAL - Rieter Digital Spinning SuiteThe new innovations for the four spinning processesare supplemented by two new functionalities of ES-SENTIAL: ESSENTIALorder and ESSENTIALconsult,which are available to all Rieter customers free ofcharge with the purchase of a new machine. In addi-tion to the existing modules ESSENTIALmonitor,ESSENTIALmaintain and ESSENTIALpredict, the nextsteps are demonstrated: ESSENTIALlab for integrat-ing laboratory data into the spinning mill managementsystem, ESSENTIALoptimize, the intelligent recipemanagement system, and ESSENTIALautomate forintegrating the transport and logistics systems.

After SalesThe growing digital service offering complements newsolutions for optimizing the installed base. With the PSMDrafting Motor, RieterAfter Sales offers a significantimprovement on the machines G 33 and K 44; andwith the Energy Saving Support Disc it offers thepossibility to make considerable energy savings on rotorspinning machines.

Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM and SuessenThe Rieter Group's component manufacturers also in-troduce further innovations for day-to-day operations,such as the Bräcker ring traveler C1 ELM udr and thenew SOLIDRING B 188 from Suessen. In preciforce,SSM presents a system for optimizing the bobbin build-up on precision winding machines. SSM also revealsanother yarn innovation: fancyflexis a technology formanufacturing slub yarn for textured yarns.

Detailed information on Rieter's innovations and ac-cess for downloading the Rieter images are availableonline at www.rieter.com

For further information please contact:Rieter Management Ltd.Media RelationsRelindisWieserHead Group CommunicationT +41 52 208 70 45 / F +41 52 208 70 60media@rieter.com /www.rieter.com

Sarees by LIVA at Kolkata Fabric Expo

Aditya Birla Group's ingredient brand LIVA presentedthe immense possibilities in Sarees at Eastern India'sBiggest Fashion Event - KOLKATA FASHION EXPO2019 which is aimed towards bringing together thebrightest and best fashion minds across the country.LIVA was the title sponsor of the event.

The trade fair brought alive the magic of the fluidfabric and sustain the most imperative Indian ethnicculture with style. LIVA, the new age fabric brand,unfurled a whole wide world of sarees& suitable fab-rics to the manufacturers, retailers as well as export-ers. Value chain partners from different hubs includingBhagalpur, Erode, Surat& Varanasi closely working withLIVA presented their collection signifying a distinctivefashion statement that one can create with the country'sheritage in an aristocrat way. The fabric of LIVA sareeswas associated with luxurious softness, feather likefeel and easy manageability to ensure a refined andgraceful look.

LIVA's efforts aimed at providing innovative, technicalproduct and marketing solutions for the brands andbuyers from across the country with this category.Sarees commands to have a market share of 50% inwomen's ethnic wear segment. Given more than 100draping styles have been documented for Saree, it is

the fabric that can leave a first-time sari shopper be-wildered. LIVA's effort is to educate the consumersregarding the different fabric offerings and to show-case the fluidity of viscose & modal in Saree's. Theelegance of a saree is defined by the drape and fall ofthe fabric. Keeping these qualities in mind, viscose isbecoming the new choice of fabrics in sarees.

Customers and business partners appreciated the rangeof Liva's Royale as well as 9 to 9 collection for pro-longed usage. Retailers have shown immense interestpromoting Sarees with Birla Cellulose fibres includingViscose, Modal & Excel.

Spokesperson from Liva commented, "The saree seg-ment has been quite unorganised for years. ThroughLIVA efforts, we hope to promote the quintessentialIndian garment. It has been adapted all across India,with each region giving its own spin. We plan onembracing the culture and educating the consumers interms of the fabric and fall. Kolkata is a major textilehub and hence is the ideal location to focus on innova-tion in the saree category".

Birla Cellulose aims at pushing the sustainability move-ment in India. With the entry of LIVA in the category,Saree too is set to be more sustainable with use oftechnologically enhanced eco-friendly fabrics.

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"Finance Minister NirmalaSitharaman presented hermaiden budget in Modi 2.0 government. However, thetextiles sector seems to have been low on her prioritylist as the Budget allocation for textiles has been re-duced to Rs 4831.48 crore in fiscal 2019-20 from Rs6,943.26 in the last fiscal. Total textile infrastructurelike SITP has been reduced from Rs 3729.83 crores toRs 58.55 crores. What's more there has been a reduc-tion in custom duty from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent onimport of raw materials under 5101 and 5105 (woolfibre and wool tops)."

Finance Minister NirmalaSitharaman presented hermaiden budget in Modi 2.0 government. However, thetextiles sector seems to have been low on her prioritylist as the Budget allocation for textiles has been re-duced to Rs 4831.48 crore in fiscal 2019-20 from Rs6,943.26 in the last fiscal. Total textile infrastructurelike SITP has been reduced from Rs 3729.83 crores toRs 58.55 crores. What's more there has been a reduc-tion in custom duty from 5 per cent to 2.5 per cent onimport of raw materials under 5101 and 5105 (woolfibre and wool tops). Moreover there has been anincrease in customs duty from 0 to 20 per cent forwater blocking tapes for manufacture of optical fibercables. Reacting to the budget Sanjay Jain, Chairman,CITI says, "It's neutral and a non-event."

Relaxation of FDI in single brand retailThe FM has proposed further relaxation of foreigndirect investment (FDI) norms in single brand retailsector to attract more overseas investments. This as-sumes special significance as several foreign entitieshad raised concerns over the mandatory local sourcingnorms from India. This included the high-end technol-ogy companies who had expressed their reluctance toprocure goods from India due to the difficulty in meet-ing the 30 per cent condition.The Department of Promotion of Industry and Internal

Textile Industry in Union Budget 2019-2020Textiles allocation reduced, fdi norms for single brand retail relaxed

trade had mooted a proposal earlier this year to easethese norms. According to that proposal, these relax-ations would allow retailers more time to comply withthis regulation. The proposal also sought permissionsfor such firms to start their online operations evenbefore setting up brick-and-mortar shops, provided theyare able to attract over $1million of FDI. However, theproposal also mandated these firms to set up their brick-and-mortar shops within two years of starting theironline sales.

Tarun Pathak, Research Director at Hong Kong basedCounterpoint Research feels easing rules in single brandretail is likely to help many foreign companies to ex-pand their operations by setting their own stores in thecountry.

Focus on promoting Khadi globallyThe government has also focused on promoting Khadiglobally, urging its missions abroad to come up withideas to project Khadi as an employment generationsolution and not merely a garment.

The Budget also announced a 2 per cent interest sub-vention for MSME and corporate tax reduction toMSMEs uptoRs 400 crores. Labour laws have beensimplified and restructuring of power distribution hasbeen proposed. Also the formation of National Re-search Foundation has been announced in the Budget.

As a part of the NDA government's focus on bringingmicro, small and medium enterprises (MSMEs) underthe formal economy's fold, a payment platform for theMSMEs will be set up. This comes in the backdrop ofthe government's plan to start an e-commerce platformon the lines of Amazon and Alibaba to sell productsfrom MSMEs and the Khadi and Village IndustriesCommission.

Given its focus on MSMEs, the government has alsoannounced a pension scheme for 30 million small trad-ers, recognising the plight of shopkeepers, small trad-ers and the self-employed hurt by the November 2016decision to demonetize high-value currency notes, andthe much-debated roll-out of the goods and servicestax (GST) in July 2017. All small shopkeepers and self-employed persons as well as the retail traders withGST turnover below Rs1.5 crore and age between 18-40 years, can enrol for this scheme. The scheme wouldbenefit more than 3 crore small shopkeepers and trad-ers.Reacting to the Budget the Clothing ManufacturersAssociation of India (CMAI) stated it is a mixed bag

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Vibrant Terry Towel Global Expo and Summit 2019

for the textile and apparel industry. Rahul Mehta, Presi-dent, CMAI, stated that the extension of lower rate of25 per cent corporate tax with an annual turnover upto Rs 400 crores is a welcome step. Currently, this rateis only applicable to companies having annual turnoverup to Rs 250 crore. Moreover the infusion of Rs 70,000crore capital into public sector banks will ease the

current credit squeeze. Also, Rs 350 crore allocatedfor 2 per cent interest subvention for all GST-regis-tered MSMEs on fresh or incremental loans will givea big thrust to MSMEs. Considering that over 80 percent of the domestic apparel industry is in the MSMEsector, all these measures could provide a boost to thesector.

The Premier MillsGroup is a long estab-lished and well-knownmanufacturer and ex-porter of fine combedcotton yarn, producingover 18 million kg offine combed cottonyarn every year. Oneof the units of theGroup is Coimbatore

Polytex Pvt. Ltd. They export to over 40 countriesacross the world, including Australia, Brazil, Finland,Germany, etc.

Recently the Group purchased a new automatic baleopener BO-P from Truetzschler for Coimbatore Polytex.Here is what Mr Rohit Rajendran, Executive Directorof the Premier Group, had to say about this product.

Can you please give us a brief about CoimbatorePolytex Pvt. Ltd.?Coimbatore Polytex started manufacturing 100% cot-ton yarn in 1991. It was the first 100% EOU spinningmill in South India, and was the first to employ womenapprentice workers. Coimbatore Polytex is part of thePremier Mills Group.

How large is this mill and what kind of yarn doyou spin?We have 42,000 spindles manufacturing knitting yarn inthe count range Ne30-Ne40, and the production is 16

The new Truetzschler BO-P scores over inCoimbatore Polytex, Coimbatore

tons per day.What are the main reasons you have chosenTruetzschler as your technology partner for somany years?Coimbatore Polytex enjoys a good relationship withTruetzschler since inception; the plant started opera-tions with DK760 cards and has continued to buyTruetzschler cards with the TC15 being installed re-cently. Truetzschler is very responsive to customers'needs and keeps introducing innovations.

Are you satisfied with the performance of the latestbale opener BO-P that is installed in your unit?Yes, the performance is good. It is still early days asit is commissioned recently, but the report from thetechnicians is very good.

Could you tell the advantages of the new BOPortal over the earlier automatic bale opener whichyou had of another make?The BO Portal is the safest automatic bale openerintroduced so far in the textile industry. It can be com-missioned very quickly, and the maintenance needs areminimal

What are your views of A.T.E., as a single win-dow solutions provider?A.T.E. has the best principals in the textile industry,and the sales and service is handled with a lot ofmaturity. When A.T.E. is behind a principal, we areconfident of working with that principal with whom wemay have had no prior relationship.

NEWS

Solapur, a District in Maharashtra is a Major TextileHub; especially in Terry Towel, Cotton Chaddars, hometextiles and its allied products. Many of the manufac-turers are direct exporters of Terry Towels, Bath Linen,Home Textiles and many other textile articles.

Textile Development Foundation (TDF), Solapur are

organising an international Expo and Summit, "VibrantTerry Towel Global Expo and Summit 2019" from 25thSept. to 27th Sept. 2019 Karmaveer Appasaheb KadadiSanskrutik Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari Sugar Fac-tory Area, Hotgi Road, Solapur.

Keeping an objective of not only to attract Major

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Importers and Buyers from the global market but alsoDomestic Players like, Wholesalers, Retailers, Agents,Traders, Corporate Offices, Buying Agents, Hotels,Hospitals etc. This will results in higher business growth,higher export and ultimately higher job creation andeconomic development. Through this event all the buy-ers, exporters and importers can come in direct con-tact with manufacturers. It will be the platform fordirect connection with actual manufacturers.

Now Solapur is a grooming industry and adapting cut-ting edge with various advanced technologies, machin-eries, techniques and many more. Hence, consideringthis people from textile industry have a huge scope inthis event, as they will use this golden opportunity fortheir company to create awareness about their prod-ucts not only in national market but also in global textile

markets. In this Expo, there will be two more separatesections for Yarn, Dyes & Chemicals and Machiner-ies. Those business holders who wants to target SolapurMarket, can participate in this event.

It is an International Event, and visitors from globalmarkets are attending this event. This will be the onlyevent organized for Terry Towel Industry. We kindlyinvite all the stakeholders from Textile Industry of In-dia to Visit and join this expo at Solapur.

For more details, please contact:Textile Development Foundation,P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road,Solapur - 413006Mobile: +91 9422459001Email: rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.comWebsite: www.vibrantterrytowel.com

NEWS

Prof. Dinkar BapuraoAjgaonkar (Prof. D. B.Ajgaonkar) born in 1928at Ratnagiri, passed awayat the age of 91 years, on18th June, 2019at Parleresidence due to suddenheart attack. A great man,teacher, mentor and phi-losopher has taken exit.He was B.Tex fromBombay University in

1952, M.Sc (Textiles) from North Carolina State Uni-versity (USA),

Prof. Ajgaonkar initially worked in various Textile Millsfor about 8 years during 1952-1959. He served morethan 30 years in Textile Teaching during 1959 to 1989.He joined VJTI and served from 1964 to 1982 (17years) as Asstt. Prof. and Professor. Then he joinedDKTE as Principal and served during 1982 to 1988.He was a founding Principal of DKTE Textile Insti-tute, Ichalkaranji.He was the one started DKTE aswell which has now became the most sought afterinstitute in India. For some time he had given his ser-vices to SASMIRA.He was the members of variouscommittees of BTRA, SITRA & ISI. He was Advisorand consultant since 1990.

Prof. Ajgaonkar was a Research Guide at Mumbaiand Shivaji University. He was real guru in true senseand Master of Knitting & Sizing Technology. He wasa man of inspirational. Down to core Teacher by heartand knowledge, he shaped lives of thousands of Textile

TRIBUTE to Prof. D. B. AJGAONKARstudents. Today many more executives are a studentof Prof. Ajgaonkar.

Prof. Ajgaonkar devoted and dedicated to his profes-sion as teacher, wonderful human being and his con-tribution to the field of education was tremendous. Hehad presented number of papers at various Confer-ences, Seminars and published in Indian Journals ofTextile Technology. He has published articles in TextileResearch Journals (USA). He has published series ofvery informative books and articles on Knitting, Sizing,Weaving and Man Made Textiles.

Prof. Ajgaonkar was very active member of the Tex-tile Association (India) and has served as member ofEditorial Board of JTA and then Chairman of JTAEditorial Board. He was also Chairman of Profes-sional Award Committee of TAI, Central Office during1980 to 1987.He was the author for various Books andTablets for Textiles.

Prof. Ajgaonkarwas conferred with Honorary Fellow-ship of Textile Association (FTA) in 1982 and wasawarded with Service Memento by TAI in 1984. Hewas felicitated with TAI RATNA Award by The Tex-tile Association (India).

It is a great loss of a true textile stalwart of the textilefraternity. His memories shall always be like lighthousefor all Textilewala.

The Textile Association (India)offers heartfelt condo-lence and pray to the Almighty to give enough strengthto his family members to bear this irreparable loss.Maygod his departed holy soul be rest in peace.

Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar

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IACC Textile Forum in association with US Com-mercial Service, US Consulate hosted Conferenceon Textiles "America First & Make in India:Achieving USD 100 Billion Trade in Textiles" held24th April, 2019 at Hotel TajMahal Palace,Mumbai.

The objective of the Conference was to create, de-velop & sustain successful bilateral partnership in tex-tiles between USA & India. This would necessitate inincreasing the scope for trade and promotion of nichesectors in textiles such as apparels and home textiles.

The conference saw participation of more than 250delegates from the leading textile industries.InauguralFunction started with the lightening of the Lamp byChief Guestand dignitaries.

L to R:Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, WelspunGroup; Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US

Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. S. K. Sarkar, National Presi-dent, IACC;Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, National Executive

Vice President, IACC, WIC;Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman,IACC Textile Forum;

The event was inaugurated by Mr. S. K. Sarkar, Na-tional President, IACC; Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman,IACC Textile Forum; Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chair-man, Welspun Group delivered Keynote address; Mr.Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Consulate,Mumbai as Chief Guest;Ms. PoorviChothani, RegionalPresident, IACC, WIC; Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, Na-tional Executive Vice President, IACC, WIC; Mr.NaushadPanjwani, Regional Vice President, IACC,WIC.

The conference also witnessed participation from twoleading States of USA, North Carolina and SouthCarolina Department of Commerce, showcasing invest-

ment opportunities in setting up textile unit in respec-tive states. US Commercial Service, US Consulate,Mumbai made a presentation showcasing Select USAInvestment Summit scheduled 10 - 12, June 2019 atWashington, DC.

The American textile sector is driven by superior tech-nology & high-end innovation having stronghold in everysegment of textile manufacturing, starting from heartvalves and stents to aircraft bodies and advanced bodyarmor, intelligent fabrics, scientific athletic wear andhome textiles, automotive textiles, geo membranes toeven the delicate lingerie. Indian companies can learnand collaborate with U.S. companies and participate inthe U.S. textile manufacturing opportunities involvingFDI into the U.S.

Similarly, the Indian textile industry exhibits the richcultural heritage of India and now with its newer modernmanufacturing systems, achieving wider variety offabrics, techniques and innovation across various manu-facturing techniques and uses.

India's competitive advantage in fiber to fabric, alongwith its many textile clusters, can meet the ever-grow-ing demand of the American textile industry. Indianstates and companies can also attract FDI from theU.S. to promote textile manufacturing and trade.

Inaugural Session: America First & Make in India:Together Achieving USD 100 Billion Trade in Textiles.

L to R:Mr. NaushadPanjwani, Regional Vice President,IACC; Ms. Rajyalakshmi Rao, National Executive Vice

President, IACC; Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman,Welspun Group; Mr. Edgard D. Kagan,

Consul General, US Consulate, Mumbai; Mr. SureshKotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Forum;

Ms. PoorviChothani, Regional President, IACC, WIC;Mr. S. K .Sarkar, National President, IACC

The Conference on Textile received over whelming responsefrom the industry

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Mr. S. K. Sarkar, National President, IACCHe mentioned that;◆ Exports of ready-made garments dropped to US

Dollar 16.37 billion in 2018-19 from USD 16.71billion a year ago. But still garment segment is amajor segment of employment generator with 45million employed directly and another 20 millionindirectly.

◆ Policy intervention by present Government throughintroduction of 100 % FDI (automatic route), in-tegrated textile parks, Technology UpgradationFund Scheme (TUFS) all have been quite encour-aging.

◆ Fiber consumption has 70 % share through man-made fibers and only the balance is 30 % naturalfibers

◆ Sustainability is the way forward for textile indus-try to operate. Environment unfriendly behaviormay be coting the globe an annual USD 160 bil-lion. Raymond in collaboration with Reliance In-dustries aims to redeem nearly one million petbottles from Landfills. The brand Eco-Vera.

◆ North Carolina State University researchers havedesigned a fibre that combines the elasticity ofrubber with the strength of a metal, resulting in atougher material that could be incorporated in tosoft robotics, packaging materials or next genera-tion textiles.

◆ Tirupur Exporter's Association (TEA) India's lead-ing knitwear or readymade cluster has reported8.3 % growth in terms of exports at Rs 26,000crores in FY 19 along with a domestic sale of Rs24,000 crores.

◆ Changing design patterns, life style across theplanet, skilled workforce, per capita spending ongarments clearly indicates India's advantage overrest of the countries, I am sure will be able tograb the opportunity.

Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, IACC Textile Fo-rumHe mentioned that;◆ Needs of both the countries are same (jobs and

employment)◆ Peter F Drucker a management guru once said

trade follows investment◆ 100 billion will be achieved through trade, com-

merce and joint investment◆ Michael Porter competitive advantage economics

is over. In the present era, collaborative econom-ics is required. A great relationship can be estab-lished between the countries

◆ IACC Textile forum is a body to make bondingbetween both the countries much deeper andstronger in textiles. This forum is involved in ideacreation, forming new concepts alienating tradi-tional concepts and introducing new forms of trade

◆ We have to be pragmatic in taking the trade for-ward between the two countries

◆ We are opening a new chapter of developing traderelations with America in Textiles

Mr. BalkrishanGoenka, Chairman, Welspun GroupHe informed that;◆ This is an important initiative if we are thinking of

creating more jobs◆ This kind of conference helps in engaging both

the governments and entrepreneurs this would defi-nitely textile sector will be benefitted.

◆ I believe Indo - US partnership offers tremendousopportunities in terms of trade relations and growthopportunities.

◆ We are all proud the way India is functioning,with 7 % GDP in last many years. We are hopingfor a stable government for next five years whichwill be extremely important in carving a newgrowth story for "Resurgent India"

◆ We are the first one to have state of art manu-facturing plant in home textiles and started ex-porting

◆ Each one of us is the first ambassador for ourCountry. Commitment is important, "Dare to com-mit" is a slogan on which we work.

◆ Welspun has 50 % market share in home textilesin USA and every 5th towel used in USA ismanufactured in Gujarat

◆ It's important that our country is need develop-mental institutions, which could fund traditional in-dustries. Textile is a traditional industry and it can'tbe left behind

◆ We have huge raw material; we are top producerof Cotton and top manufacturers of man-made.Our Honourable Prime Minister, has formulatedan important theme from "Farm to Fibre" and"Fibre to Fashion" which can wonders for theentire textile value chain.

◆ A small country like Bangladesh 18 b exports,how is it possible, we need to change perceptionand with insignificant insight, we can achieve alot, with every 1 cr. Rupees spent in garment orapparel we can create more than 75 jobs

◆ We are aiming to be 5 trillion economy by 2025.◆ Global Textile & Apparel trade would be roughly

750 billion dollars in next five years it's projected

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to touch 1 trillion dollars◆ India is hardly having 5 % share, 40 billion ex-

ports.◆ There is huge scope in terms of exports to USA.

We need to grow at CAGR with 10 % fromcurrently 5 - 6 %.

◆ When India & USA is already having great part-nership and relationship and with China vacatingthe space and we have huge opportunity. We cando wonders together and grow together.

◆ My personal view is to work towards achievingthis theme by 2025 within five years.

Mr. Edgard D. Kagan, Consul General, US Con-sulate, MumbaiHe mentioned that;◆ The first relationship built between USA & India

is on textiles. Tremendous global shift in capital,investment

◆ am happy that Mr. Kotak is talking about a visionwhich is not a "Zero Sum Game"

◆ There has to be win- win not only in economicterms but also in creation of employment andvalues between both the countries. We can in-crease in textile trade significantly

◆ We have administration in US greater focus ontrade & goods, trade deficits and willing to takeaction, Americans play a level playing field

◆ If there is a genuine market access across theboard this will help all the countries to developand grow and bring prosperity to citizens

◆ In America, we are trying to refine opportunitiesthe benefits of investments are shared by all citi-zens

◆ If India continues to grows with more than 7 %then it will add entire economy of Vietnam

◆ We are very proud threat American companiesare long time investment partners in India andvice -versa

◆ Indian companies invested in America have ap-preciated & found out value from investment. Wehave significant investments between both thecountries

◆ We see this linkage as a great opportunity This isa way forward for both countries

◆ I can firmly say; no relationship can ever becompared with India. This will benefit not only toIndians or Americans but to everyone

◆ We will be having defining relationship if not thedefining relationship. We want a very close, strong& productive relationship with emerging India. Weshare very common values, the trade partnership

which we have built over the years is more thaneconomic partnership and will result crescendofor textiles industry

◆ Textiles is important for America too. It's alwaysachievable to achieve the target. US exportsTechnical Textiles to India and we would seekpartnership in developing particular segment

Session on: Investment Opportunities in SelectStates of USA

L to R:Mr. Colin Kiser, Senior Director, EconomicDevelopment - Europe and India Economic Development

Partnership of North Carolina; Mr. Tarun Gupta,Managing Director (India Office), South Carolina

Department of Commerce; Ms. PoorviChothani, RegionalPresident, IACC, WIC; Mr. Rahul Padmanabha, Director

of Investments, India Office, Economic DevelopmentPartnership of North Carolina;

Ms. Jigna Mehta, Commercial Specialist, U.S.Consulate,Mumbai; Mr. Sven Gerzer, Vice President, EconomicDevelopment - Europe, India & North America, Eco-nomic Development Partnership of North Carolina

In this session, presentation was done by US Commer-cial Service showcasing various services being offeredby FCS in attracting investments in to USA and help-ing Small and Medium size enterprises in exporting tovarious countries. The presentation also covered Se-lect USA Investment Summit which is scheduled 10 -12 June 2019 in Washington DC. Select USA is a U.S.government-wide program organized by InternationalTrade Administration at the United States Departmentof Commerce.

Exclusive presentation by two select states of USANorth Carolina and South Carolina showcasing invest-ment opportunities & locational advantage in setting upindustries.

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Panel Discussion I: What America Buy or CanBuy in Textiles

L to R: Mr. NanikRupani, Past Regional President,IACC, WIC; Mr. Updeep Singh Chatrath, Deputy CEO,

Sutlej Textiles & Industries Ltd.; Mr. R. D.Udeshi,President (Polyester Chain), Reliance Industries Ltd.;

Mr. AvinashMayekar, Managing Director, Suvin AdvisorsPvt. Ltd.; Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Managing Director,

Reeti Exim & Application Pvt. Ltd.& Ex-Chairman,SRTEPC; Mr. Mohit Jain, Vice-Chairman,

Indo Count Industries Ltd.

Mr. R. D. Udeshi, President Polyester, RelianceIndustries Ltd [Session Chairman]He mentioned that;◆ Indian Textile Industry is roughly around 142 bil-

lion dollar (100 domestic, 42 exports)◆ India has put an ambitious target of achieving 35o

billion dollar by 2024◆ India is blessed with entire value chain 6 MT of

cotton, abundant fibre, we have refining capacity,xylene, Para xylene

◆ India is strong in providing back end infrastruc-ture like electricity, cheap labour, market accessi-bility backed by strong banking, legal system

◆ India is strong in fibre and multi utility of fibre canhelp us in meeting USA Demand

◆ How to increase trade with USA, manmade tex-tile and mutual export to USA or create a buildingblock in India exporting primary product to USAor processing facility can be Made at USA

Mr. Updeep Singh Chatrath, Deputy CEO, SutlejTextiles & Industries Ltd.He informed that;Since the facility have in USA & How was your ex-perience in doing business with USA?◆ We always wanted to have strong foot print in

USA

◆ Speed to market strategy is required as there isextreme demand

◆ Per capita consumption of towels in US market is8 to 10

◆ In India the per capita consumption of towel 250tons per day and 95 % goes to USA

◆ Ease of operation is a plus point in USA◆ As a company, we are determined to grow and

achieve 100 million dollars in USA◆ Some of the disadvantages integration of two

companies or joint ventures and time difference◆ Rationalization of cost needs to be done while

making investment in USA

Mr. Mohit Jain, Vice-Chairman, Indo Count In-dustries Ltd.He spoke that;◆ Today 49 - 50 % of towel imported to US or bed

linen imported to US is from India.◆ India plays a significant role US imports in home

textiles◆ Company needs to be innovative, product devel-

opment focused◆ The market is growing at 3 to 3.5 % in home

textiles◆ The product exported is very straight◆ Import tariff to US is 7 %, Bangladesh is tariff

free, Canada which is neighboring to US has 17%

◆ Challenge is to think from consumer's point ofview and USA being extreme developed market,there is a need to have well researched productdevelopment & innovation

◆ Sustainability is the key to survive in future andE-Commerce is the way forward for business tooperate.

Mr. Sanjeev Saran, Managing Director, Reeti Exim& Application Pvt. Ltd.He mentioned that;◆ The manmade fibre which India currently exports

to US is 5 % as compared to rest of the world,therefore one can imagine the potential in termsof export

◆ We are bit underexposed in US markets. We havethe raw materials but not technology

◆ Synthetic & technical textiles huge scope. Tech-nology can be imported, weaving can be done inIndia, finishing of product can be done in US

◆ Collaborations is important, we are trying to fig-ure out how can we work together

◆ Product basket to USA is too small. Small woven

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fabrics for US defense needs to be explored more◆ Enhance product basket is necessary. JVs is re-

quired in terms of finishing product◆ India needs to improve on processing facility◆ Tariff barriers is not a big problem

Mr. AvinashMayekar, Managing Director, SuvinAdvisors Pvt. Ltd.He informed that;◆ To achieve this target 100 billion target, provided

if we go for value added products◆ Most of exports is yarn, which is least in the

value chain◆ In technical textiles, US is far way ahead and

making huge investment in research◆ Indian companies like Welspun& Gina Filament in

technical textiles space making it good impact◆ Cotton is a major product for India◆ Home textiles is also a part of technical textiles

and captures 50 % of market share in US◆ Research needs to be applied research and need

not be developmental research

Outcome of the Panel Discussion:◆ IACC feels there is a huge opportunity to export

product to USA or investment can be made atUSA, greige products can be exported to US sothat final processing can be done at US, so thatregulatory requirements can be made at met. Thiswill help in meeting domestic demand & US de-fense industry.

◆ So, 100 billion dollars can be achieved in nearfuture. Major contribution to be made by manmadefibre and government needs to give attention withintroduction of fibre neutrality measure, this willalso generate employment in the sector.

◆ The world ration for made ups is 60 % and other40 %.

Panel Discussion II: Current Textile ProductBasket from India to USA and How to Expand,Develop & Diversify.

L to R: Mr. Arvind Sinha, Advisor, IACC Textile Forum;Mr. Prem Malik, Vice Chairman, NSL Textiles Ltd;

Mr. AmolGaikwad, General Manager, TRIMS (CVBU),Tata Motors Ltd.; Ms. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor,

Apparel Export Promotion Council; Mr. KailashR.Lalpuria, Executive Director & CEO, Indo Count

Industries Ltd.; Mr. Anjani Prasad, Managing Director,Archroma India Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Arvind Sinha, Advisor, IACC, Textile Forum[Moderator]He mentioned that;◆ Business Prospects with USA needs to be im-

proved and has lot of prospects for both countriesto explore in textiles

◆ US defense forces market is itself 74 billion butproduct has to be made in America. Entrance tosuper markets will be easy. Why we are not ableto deepen trade linkage with USA what are ourweakness and strengths and how can we im-prove?

Mr. Prem Malik, Vice Chairman, NSL TextilesLtd.He spoke that;◆ World trade 700 billion above roughly growing at

4 -5 %◆ US in terms of textile and clothing 115 billion

market for imports. China holds 36 % marketshare

◆ Home textiles India has really done well. Totalmarket share 15.6 billion dollars, India has 2.8billion dollars of exports to USA, India holds 16% market share. Relative terms, India hasachieved on two items bed sheets and towels.Poly cot Pakistan has a major share and India

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needs to explore more on those areas.◆ Synthetic polyester needs a push. Government

needs to give impetus.◆ Major weakness for India is apparel industry, out

of 115 billion dollar, 83 billion dollars' worth ofimports is in apparel. India's export in terms ofapparel to USA is about 3.86 Billion about 4.6 %import

◆ The scale of production is important in order toexport to USA. Fibre area we are holding 7 - 8% market share in US

◆ Missing areas such as women & girls suits, womenpajamas, and women's undergarments

◆ Second area is technical textiles. This can be theareas of focus while dealing with USA

Mr. AmolGaikwad, General Manager, TRIMS(CVBU), Tata Motors Ltd.He informed that;◆ 40 - 45 sq. meters of fabric is used in automobile.

Classified as technical textiles◆ Classified in to various categories such as seating

fabric, woven fabrics (i.e. roof lining), and thirdone is tyre applications, high performance require-ment is air bags, heat stabilizers, air filters. Tex-tiles is used as reinforcing areas. Quality is impor-tant

◆ Value addition is important and cost plays animportant role in automobile applications

◆ Applications changes in meeting regulatory require-ments.

Mr. Kailash R.Lalpuria, Executive Director &CEO, Indo Count Industries Ltd.He mentioned that;◆ Role of design studios? What are u expectations

from US markets?◆ Post quota has helped the leaders to explore glo-

bal markets. Home textiles is identified as onesuch area which can contribute maximum rev-enue

◆ 85 % of textiles are exported from China, India,Bangladesh & Vietnam

◆ Bed linen came in to picture after 2005. Indiawas well established in spinning long staple, me-dium staple & short staple

◆ India lags front end of the market. We changedthe strategy let's invest in designing, showrooms.We have large showrooms, US, Charlotte,Manchester, Dubai

◆ Bedding side, 4 billion dollar market out of 28billion dollar in US home textiles. 14 billion is

bedding alone, 4 billion sheets, 5 billion is fashion,3 billion is utility, 2 billion is institutional

◆ Vision is to become expand in bedding segment &value added segment, by investing in structuredresearch and design studios

Ms. Chandrima Chatterjee, Advisor, ApparelExport Promotion CouncilShe mentioned that;◆ In textiles there are 265 categories of HS Codes.

India is present 46 %. 25 products are categorieswhich are currently exported

◆ 8 billion dollars of exports of apparels only 50 %◆ Made ups has 37 %. Textiles are minimal◆ We are stuck to certain 20 categories which is

basic cotton, manmade fibre, knitted or woven◆ We are not there at all in outer wears, texture or

value-added segments◆ Cambodia recorded 74 % growth◆ 20 - 25 % cost in wages cannot be looked at.

Wage component needs to be lower◆ Today's conference is important, huge opportunity

in collaboration in identifying products which arein demand. For ex fitness & health apparels, whichUS is looking only product differentiation needs tobe done

◆ Another area government official identifying 200technical textiles code identified. Protective wearis important

◆ More products is AI driven, so new age skilling isrequired. We need to invest in skilling. We canthink of joint ventures or finishing can be donethere

◆ Plan for next 15 years, collaborative approachcan be adopted. JVs can be looked at wheremerging of strengths needs to be done

Mr. Anjani Prasad, Managing Director, ArchromaIndia Pvt. Ltd.He informed that;◆ Ethical is crucial which textile industry can show

it to the world. Ethical way of manufacturing iscrucial for the textile industry

◆ Polyester recycling is possible but cotton recy-cling is a problem. Reactive dyes can never bestripped

◆ Some alternative solution for resins. We need toshow to USA, different way of manufacturing

◆ Ring spun we are using it, No open end processesin India, are we understanding customer needsand aligning processes as per America require-ment

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◆ Innovations & sustainability is the key to survivalfor textile industry

◆ 1000 liters of water are required to produce jeans.In dyes & chemistry industry we have solutionwhere we can produce jeans without consumingenough water. Pigments can be used where mini-mal consumption of water. For example, in USA,the company is based at Seattle where there is noneed of water. T Shirt is being manufacturedwhere there is no need of washing of T-Shirt

◆ In my views, if you need to compete with Chinait can never on volume it should be on the basisof diversifying your product and develop nichesegment

Panel Discussion III: Success Stories of Indo -US Investments in Textiles

L to R: Mr. Harit Mehta, Member, IACC Textile Forum& MD, Haren Textiles Pvt. Ltd.;

Mr. Ajay Kohli, Senior Vice President, Archroma IndiaPvt. Ltd.:

Mr. Pradeep K. Mukherjee, Senior Consultant, GherziConsulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Harit Mehta, Member, IACC Textile Forum[Moderator]He mentioned that;◆ The journey begins with 100 Billion trade with

America◆ IACC Textile Forum & US Commercial Service

will help you your business grow◆ Nations do compete with global supply chains◆ Yarns fabrics to garments, dies & chemicals,

multitude of fabrics, technical & non-technical◆ Nations don't compete on product & services

alone, they compete on supply chains◆ Nations do business with each other when both

are treated equal & both are benefitted◆ Through all or effort we need to make India win

& USA wins

◆ Panel Discussion would focus on what we needto do when we commence business with USA

◆ Are we ready to meet their demand? Doing busi-ness with America is as easy compared to anyother country? We have common belief & strongethics in doing business with America

Four things are important from America perspectivea. Cheap prices doesn't always sellb. We need to be consistent what we make and

what we sellc. Adhere to your specificationd. Need to change & adapt if you are willing to sell

America

Mr. Ajay Kohli, Senior Vice President, ArchromaIndia Pvt. Ltd.He spoke that;◆ How we need to build & strengthen our offerings

while dealing with America◆ This is basically the value chain of the textile

industry, from yarn to finished fabric, we need tolook at how we recycle the fabric

◆ Offer sustainable solution to textile industry. Ithas three components safe, efficient & valueoffering. Everything we do must be safe through-out & safe to wear, efficiency means that weshould maximize the use of resources by use ofyour productivity, efficient maximize our produc-tivity by minimal use of resources and we talkabout enhancement means inclusion of more func-tionality in textiles

◆ We need to value the environment. The globalenvironment speaks about following facts: 6 mil-lion of chemicals only in textile industry 20 %industrial water pollution is contributed only bytextiles 5 % of the entire land fill waste is occu-pied by textile industry

◆ We need to use chemicals in making it moreenvironment friendly

◆ Innovations follows sustainability. Innovationswhich we have implemented smart repel, magicblue, advanced dies, earth colour this are theofferings to improve functionalities. This are digi-tal process no capex requirement. For example:-Blue magic discontinues treatment, we have ap-plied to textile mill the process which was taking360 mins, we could reduce the process time by97 mins, in terms of efficiency it has reducedwater consumption by 21, time 35, energy 28,chemical two and half percent

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Mr. Pradeep K. Mukherjee, Senior Consultant,Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd.Mr. Pradip Mukherjee, played video showing Use ofDisruptive Technologies in Manufacturing USA. Withthe introduction of disruptive technologies using digitaltransformation, manufacturers can now achieve higherproductivity, reduce labour costs and shorten lead timesbetween order and supply.

He mentioned that;◆ Textile 4.0 as a subset of industry 4.0 offers a

more comprehensive, interlinked and holistic ap-proach to manufacturing

Global Trend in Textiles:◆ With the dismantling of MFA in Jan 2015, the

industry saw the opportunity in rapidly growing itsglobal share by becoming more competitive andexpanding its capacity using modern technology

◆ The retail markets in USA and in other developedcountries are undergoing a huge structural change.From the traditional brick and mortar stores,internet commerce is accentuating changinglifestyles and consumer tastes by giving space toonline marketing. As a business model, Amazonhas emerged as the largest apparel retailer in USA.

Possible Opportunities for Indian Textile Indus-try- Spinning Sectora. one of the key differentiators is the availability of

good quality clean contamination free cotton-where USA is at an advantage

b. Import of USA cotton in to India is growing at aCAGR of 48 % from 2015 to 2017

c. Power costs in USA are one of the lowest inworldwide

d. Indian entrepreneurs may assess the cost benefitbalance of reshoring part of their capacities toUSA

Opportunities for Indian Textile Industry (Tech-nical Textiles):a. while India has a growing output of technical tex-

tiles, it still imports products at the upper end ofthe spectrum

b. USA can provide technical knowledge, expertiseand credibility based on its strength in R & D forthe upper end

c. Manufacture in the USA will enable such certi-fied products to obtain market access globallybased on the accreditation

Outcome of the Session:a. Softer side of doing business plays an important

roleb. Performance & trust building is key to sell busi-

nessc. Add more products to the existing business

View of the Audience

Kindly Note:In response to the success of Textile Conference, IACCTextile Forum intends to take a delegation to NorthCarolina & South Carolina to visit the state of artmanufacturing plants based at respective states andcreate a strong nexus among policy makers and keystakeholders to boost textile trade between two coun-tries.

Finance forum to add practical insights into tex-tile sector financing and funding

An exciting and diverse panel of industry experts hasbeen invited to share future trends, rare insights andstrategic solutions at the ITMA Speakers Platform.This is the first time that experts from non-exhibitingcommercial organisations have been invited to partici-pate.

The Speakers Platform is part of the ITMA Innovation

Industry Experts invited first time as ITMA SpeakersLab, a special feature launched to promote innovationexcellence in the textile and garment industry. At atime when the industry is facing massive disruption,intense competition and global challenges, the ownerof ITMA, CEMATEX - the European Committee ofTextile Machinery Manufacturers, strives to add greatervalue to participants' experience at ITMA 2019.

Mr. Fritz Mayer, President of CEMATEX, explained:"It is critical for the global textile, garment and fashion

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industry to collaborate and to share perspectives andbest practices. In the past, the Speakers Platformfeatured only presentations by Research and Innova-tion Pavilion exhibitors."

He added, "As the world trends towards Industry 4.0and grapples with sustainability challenges, we wouldlike to offer ITMA as an inclusive platform for allstakeholders to converge and work together to addressthe challenges we face in today's rapidly evolving world.Hence, we have invited non exhibitors, as well as allITMA exhibitors to add greater vibrancy to the Plat-form."

By having industry experts who are not ITMA exhibi-tors to give their presentations, CEMATEX hopes toencourage cross-pollination of ideas and spotlight bestin class solutions. The invited industry speakers willjoin ITMA 2019 exhibitors selected to make their pre-sentations based on these themes:

◆ Innovative Raw Materials & Manufacturing Tech-nology

◆ Strategic Business Innovation through Automation&Digitalisation

◆ Technical Textiles Innovations and ManufacturingTechnology

◆ Sustainable Textile & Garment Manufacturing inthe Circular Economy

Response from industry professionals has been posi-tive. Well-known experts who have confirmed theiracceptance to speak include Yoel Fink, CEO of Ad-vanced Functional Fabrics of America (AFFOA). Hewill address the topic, 'Textile Sensors - Applicationsand Market Growth'. Other renowned speakers are:◆ Lutz Walter, Director Innovation & Skills,

EURATEX, will present 'towards a 4th IndustrialRevolution of Textiles & Clothing - Strategic In-novation & Research Agenda: Results in Practice& Way to Go'.

◆ RakhilHirdaramani, Manufacturers CommitteeChair, World Federation of the Sporting GoodsIndustry (WFSGI) will provide insights on'Digitisation&Realisation of Data of the Shop Floor'.

◆ NavaidBaqai, Director, Global Textile of CottonCouncil International (Cotton USA) will speak onthe 'Impact of US Cotton and Its Technical &Financial Performance.

◆ Peter Sestic, Lead Development Engineer,Sigmatex UK, will highlight 'The 'BreakthroughAerospace Materials' Project (BAM) on Devel-

opment of 3D Woven Textile Composites in theAerospace Industry'.

On the sustainability front, leading industry practitio-ners will share their viewpoints and solutions:◆ Sophie Mather, Strategic Director, The Microfibre

Consortium will share advice on 'Prevention ofMicroplastic Release into the Aquatic Environ-ment during the Washing of Synthetic Clothes:Results of the Cross Industry Agreement CIA)'.

◆ René Bethmann, Innovation Manager (Materials& Manufacturing), Vaude, will share 'Vaude Ex-pectations from Raw Materials Suppliers in theSense of Sustainability'.

◆ Natalia PapuCarrone, Research Analyst, TextilesProgramme, Circle Economy, will update on 'To-wards a Zero Waste Textiles industry: The End-of-use Value Chain'.

◆ Roian Atwood, Director of Sustainability for Wran-gler and Lee Jeans, will provide details on 'En-gaging the Global Supply Chain to Drive GreaterSocial & Environmental Performance'.

◆ Lisa Rosengren, Head of R&D Raw Material,Fristads AB, will speak on 'Measuring the TotalImpact of a Garment - Environmental ProductDeclaration'.

Finance forumAs a value-add to ITMA participants, professionalsfrom the finance industry have been invited to sharetheir expertise at the Speakers' Platform. They include:◆ Andrea Rossi, Head of International Business

Support, ServiziAssicurativi del Commercio Estero(SACE)

◆ Andreas Oel, Client Advisory, Large Enterprises& Reinsurance, Swiss Export Risk Insurance(SERV)

◆ Julian Paisey, Senior Policy Analyst Export Cred-its Division, Credits Division, OECD Export

◆ Christina Lutz, Export Finance Specialist,Landesbank Baden-Württemberg

◆ CengizBekret, Senior Manager - Sales and Busi-ness Development BNP Paribas Leasing Solu-tions

◆ Patricia Polo, InstitutionalRelationsUnit, CompañíaEspañola de Seguros de Crédito a la Exportación(CESCE)

Mr. Charles Beauduin, Chairman, ITMA Services, said:"Finance and managing risk are critical to the successof any business. At a time when the textile and gar-ment sector is undergoing major technological transfor-

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mation, businesses are faced with the challenge of find-ing sources to fund investments in new technologies,including green solutions. At the forum, participantswill be able to get practical advice which will helpthem make better financing decisions."

To be held from 21 to 25 June, the Speakers Platformwill also feature panel discussions. Interested partici-pants can get programme updates from itma.com andthe app.

ITMA Innovation LabIn addition to the Speakers Platform, the ITMA Inno-vation Lab features three other components: Research& Innovation Pavilion, Innovation Video Showcase andITMA Sustainable Innovation Award.

Featuring the theme, Innovating the World of Textiles,ITMA 2019 will be held from 20 to 26 June at Fira deBarcelona, Gran Via venue. The exhibition will feature1,700 exhibitors who will be showcasing their latesttechnologies and sustainable solutions for the entiretextile and garment manufacturing value chain, as wellas fibres, yarns and fabrics. Online visitor registrationis open and early bird rates for badges will end 15 May2019.

For more information, please contact:Ms Daphne PoonITMA ServicesTel: +65 94789543Email: daphnepoon@itma.comwww.itma.com

◆ Contracts signed for seven projects◆ Contract comprises delivery of compact- and ring-

spinning systems◆ Total amounts to roughly CHF 180 million◆ Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in

2019; sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years

Rieter Group has signed contracts with the Cotton &Textile Industries Holding Company, Cairo (Egypt), atthe ITMA 2019. These seven projects entail a total of180 million Swiss francs. The contract comprises de-livery of compact- and ring-spinning systems over thenext two years. This order is part of a comprehensivemodernization program of the Egyptian textile industry.

Rieter Awarded Large Contract from EgyptThe order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years.

The contracts were signed at the ITMA in Barcelona,Spain, by Dr. Ahmed Moustafa Mohamed, ChairmanCotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, and Dr.Norbert Klapper, CEO Rieter.

Dr. Klapper was very pleased at the formal signing ofcontracts: "We would like to thank our Egyptian busi-ness partners for the confidence they are placing inRieter by awarding us this contract. Rieter has beenthe partner of choice of the Egyptian spinning industryfor decades. We are delighted to be given the oppor-tunity of making such an important contribution to themodernization of the Egyptian textile industry."

For further information please contact:Rieter Man-agement Ltd.Investor RelationsRieter Holding Ltd.Kurt LedermannChief Financial OfficerT +41 52 208 70 15F +41 52 208 70 60investor@rieter.comwww.rieter.com

Media RelationsRelindisWieserHead Group CommunicationT +41 52 208 70 45F +41 52 208 70 60media@rieter.comwww.rieter.com

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INDIA

Global Reverse Buyer Seller Meet - 'Source India 2019'Date : 21st to 23rd August, 2019Venue : Bombay Exhibition Centre,

Goregaon (E), Mumbai, IndiaContact : Mr. MuraliBalkrishna, Joint Director

The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles ExportPromotion Council

Tel. : +91-22-62318282E-mail : murali@srtepc.inWebsite : http://www.srtepc.in

VIBRANT Terry Towel - Global Expo & Summit 2019Date : 25th to 27th September, 2019Venue : Karmaveer Appasaheb Kadadi Sanskutik

Bhavan, Siddheshwar Sahakari SugarFactory Area, Hotgi Road,Solapur - 413 224 Maharashtra, India

Contact : Mr. Rajesh Goski, CEO - VTT GES 2019Textile Development Foundation,P-28, MIDC, Akkalkot Road,Solapur - 413 006

Mobile : +91-9422459001E-mail : rajesh@vibrantterrytowel.com,Website : www.vibrantterrytowel.com

Global Textile Forum - Bangladesh Vision 2022Gearing up for New Generation TextilesDate : 20th to 21stSeptember, 2019Venue : Radisson Blu, Dhaka, BangladeshContact : Mr. Ashok Veda

The Textile Association (India) M.P. UnitMobile : 9826047355, 9425064568E-mail : taimpunit@gmail.com,

Ashokveda007@gmail.com

Great India Textile ShowDate : 15th to 17th November, 2019Venue : Station Road, Ichalkaranji,

Dist.: Kolhapur (MH)Contact : Mr. Rajesh Sinha

Essential Events & Trades FairsM. : +91-9324077881, +91-9718514089E-mail : mkt.essential@gmail.comWebsite : www.essentialtradefairs.com

3rd International Textile Machinery & Accessories Exhibi-tion (ITMACH)Date : 05th to 08th December, 2019Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground,

Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad,Gujarat, India

Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani / Mr. AmeyDangawalaMob. : +91- 9833977743 / +91-9375064401E-mail : info.itmach.com / amey@itmach.com

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

Indian Textile Sourcing ExhibitionDate : 05th to 08th December, 2019Venue : The Exhibition Centre, Helipad Ground,

Sector-17, Gandhinagar, Ahmedabad,Gujarat, India

Contact : Mr. ArvindSemlani,Mobile : +91- 9833977743E-mail : info.itmach.comWebsite : www.ITSE.com

ABROAD

5th Edition - Intex South Asia 2019Date : 13th to 15th November, 2019Venue : BMICH

(Sirimavo Bandaranaike Exhibition Centre)Colombo, Sri Lanka

Contact : Mr. Narendra Sharma, Project AssociateWorldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd.309, Parvati Premises, Sun Mill Complex,Lower Parel (W), Mumbai - 400 013

Tel. : +91-22-4037670 Ext.702,Mobile : +91-9821232723E-mail : intexfair@worldexindia.comWebsite : www.intexfair.com

International Textile & Textile Engineering Exhibition(ITME AFRICA)Date : 14th to 16th February, 2020Venue : Millenium Hall, Addis Ababa, EthiopiaContact : India ITME Society

1210/1211, Dalamal Tower, A wing,12th Floor,Plot No. 211, Nariman Point,Mumbai - 400 021

Tel. : 40020233, 22020032, 6630 3834Fax : 022-2285 1578, M.: 7303456667E-mail : itme@india-itme.com,

itme@itme-africa.comWebsite : itme-africa.com

19th International Exhibition on Textile IndustryDate : 25th to 28th November, 2019Venue : Shanghai New International Expo CentreWebsite : www.shanghaitex.cn

Every effort is made to ensure thatthe information given is correct.You are however, advised to re-check the dates with the organiz-ers, for any change in schedule,venue etc., before finalizing yourtravel plans.