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    Prada lnfusionde Tubereuse Eaude Parfum. $135:

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    DANGENE MGKAY-BAILEYNew York's most sought-afternew youth guru-transplantedfrom L.A.-believes in lasers,lights, and head-to-toe,f reckle-f ree perfection.629 Park Ave.NYC 10065(212)249-8t72DAWN DALUISE ATSKIN REFINERYFormerly of the Face Place,DaLuise specializes inmuscle-stimulating galvanictreatments-light on thepampering, heavy on results.8543 Santa Monica Blvd.West Hollywood 90069(3ro) 659-1828dawndaluise.comJOANNAVARGASThe city's fashion, social,and political sets trust Vargasfor glowing skin achievedwith natural products.5Ol Fifth Ave., Ste.7O7NYC 10017(212)949-23sOjoannavargas.com

    JODY COMSTOCK, M.D-Medical-grade facialsfrom one of Tucson'smost noted derms.6127 N. La Cholla Blvd.,Ste. lOlTucson, AZ8574L(52O\797-8885skinspectrum.comKATE SOMERVILLE ATKATE SOMERVILLE SKINHEALTH EXPERTSCelebrity magnet Kate isknown for instant results, anarsenal of high-tech equipment,and an addictive productline. lf she's not available,ask for Kelly Viavattine.8428 Melrose Pl.Los Angeles 90069(323) 655-7s46katesomerville.comTAMMY FENDERHolistic facials, healing hands,miraculous results from PalmBeach's beloved skin expert.711 North Flagler Dr.West Palm Beach 33401(56t) 6s9-2229tammyfender.com

    KRISTIE STREICHERAT WARREN-TRICOMISALONThe bicoastal arch angel (witha killer vintage wardrobe)relies on her own blend ofessential oils to minimizeredness post-wax and -pluck.8327 Melrose Ave.West Hollywood 90069(323) 65r-454swarrentricomi-comMARIBETH MADRONATSHARON DORRAMCOLOR AT SALLYHERSHBERGERFamed for her work withfull brows, Madron is afashion-editor favorite.17 E.71st St.NYC 10021(212) 53s-3519sallyhershberger.com

    MICHAEL REY III ATCHROMA MAKEUP STUDIO"Beautiful, very natural-looking brows every time,in under 30 minutes.Never waxes, onlyplucks," says a client.9605 S. Santa Monica Blvd.Beverly Hills 9021O(37O)274-2155chromamakeupstudio.comSUZANNAKUDZINOWSKI ATHOPSCOTCH"Sweet, spunky, and knowswhat the client wants. Shespecializes in tinting for thickerbrows-they're never tooskinny," says one loyalist.LO Railroad Ave.Greenwich, CT 05830(203) 661-0107hopscotchsalon.com

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    LO16al Paris VoluminousMillion Lashesmascara, $9;lorealparisusa.com.JULEP NAIL PARTORSeattle's most stylishnail spas for pamperedhands and feet.50Ol 25th Ave., NESeattle 98105(206)98s-6644julep.comPATRICIA CENZI ATWARREN-TRICOMI SALONGreenwich's top nail star.I East Putnam Ave.Greenwich, CT 06830(203) 863-9300warrentricomi.comTHE SPA ATTHE BREAKERSTwo words: ocean view.I South County Rd.Palm Beach 33480(8881273-2537thebreakers.com

    30008c sPA"Chic and modern; quickyet extravagant services.They walk that fine linebetween pamperingand getting you out ontime," says one fan.8439 Germantown Ave.Philadelphia 19118(215)247-60203OOObc.comTHE ELYSIAN SPAN irvana-inducingmassages, spaciousIocker rooms, and privatePilates at Chicago's mostsophisticated new hotel spa.11 E. Walton St.Chicago 60611(312) 646-13O0elysianhotels.com

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    bout a yearand a half ago, I was having a facial with Joanna Vargas in herintimate suite of rooms in a building opposite Bryant Park.Several homemade organic maskg a tingly peel, and more thanafew extractions late4 she setmy facebeneath a slim, rectangu-larpanel of red and infrared lightmittingdiodes (LEDs). Thiswas the final phase, the part of the treatrnent thatwould calmany inflammation and help ensure that I would walk out thedoor looking no worse-in fact, looking much better-thanI had when I d walked in. "Would you like light on your chest,too, and maybe your hands?" she asked, wheeling over twomore panels. Why not, I thought, rearranging my terry wrapandcarefully positioningmy handg palms down, next to eachother on my lap. If these lights--{ocumented to increase cellmetabolism, s@ healing and perhaps even lessen lurking sundamage-were good for my face, I figured they could only begood for my hands and decolletE (two prime premature-agingspots), too. Wouldnt it be great, Vargas and I mused, while I layvery stillwitheyes closed beneath silvergoggles, if therewereapanel big enough to mver the entire body? Couldn't someonetake the desigrr of a tanningbed and, instead of skin-damagingUVlamps, fil itwith skin-friendlyLED lights?In Decembe4 Vargas called my office. "I made the bed," shesaid. Hmm? "The LED lightbd. Itwillbehereintwoweeks"

    This LED technology was originally developed for NASA asa means of growingplants aboard a shuttle in space. The way"WANT TO SEE IT ON BEFCRE YCU GET IN?"ASKED VARGAS. "IT LIGHTS UP LIKE LASVTGAS," SHE FLIPPTD A SWITCH, AND 5,OOORED LIGHTS SNAPPTD TO ATTTNTIONinwhich LED therapyworks in skin is similar to the process ofphotosynthesis: Precise wavelengths emitted by the tiny bulbspass through the dermis, energizing injured cells and stimulat-ing cellular activity. "If you have enough light, it will help thecellg in essence, breathe," says Rox Anderson, M.D., professorof dermatology at Harvard Medical School and director of theWellman Center for Photomedicine at Massachusetts GeneralHospital. Dermatologistg and later facialistg caught on, usingthe gentle lights-in varying colors and wavelengths-foreverything from reducing inflammation post-procedure totreating acne and improving skin texture and tone.

    136

    Dermatologist Patricia Wexler, M.D., has been a fanof light therapy since receiving her GentleWaves amber-light device (the first commercial LED FDA-approved fordiminishing fine lines) a little more than five years ago. Itclaims to stimulate the mitochondria and promote collagenproduction while simultaneously inhibiting MMPs, theenzymes that lead to collagen breakdown. Wexler begantreating patients with eczema, acne, and scarring, as well.She ushered patients brave enough to show up to her officewith sunburns under the pulsing amber lights, too. "I knewit would decrease the amount of damage they d get to theircells. Anything inflammatory is a good indication for LEDtechnology," she says. (In fact, LED therapy is frequentlyprescribed forjoint pain or injuries.) These days, "basically,any time we do a laser-Vbeam, Fraxel, CO2-we follow itwith LED to speed the healing. We use it alone to reverse theappearance of dilated blood vessels and irregular pigmenta-tion associated with sun damage."Wexler now administers LED therapy below the neck,too, since, as she sayg "Skin is skin." Indeed, what good is asmooth, even-toned face if the body doesn't match?Which is why I trotted, at a brisk clip, back to Joanna Var-gas's spa as soon as I could. Until now, for anyone seekingfull-body LED benefits, the best options have been either aconstellation of panels maneuvered into place-shining overlegs herg arms there----or a single light unit, used sequentially(and tediously) over each zone."The clam," which Vargas unveiled in a dramatically dark-ened room, may change that. The gleaming intergalactic podthat sat before me earned its moniker simply because it reallydoes look quite like a (sports car-sized) white clam. To clientgVargas refers to it as the more enticing *Sleeping BeautyTreat-ment." Working with the scientists at Norlux, a leading manu-facturer of LEDq Vargas armed hermachine with the red andinfrared lights she has counted on as part of her facials for somany years, and applied for a patent for its design. "I askedthe engineers to put reflectivematerialbetween the bulbs-sothe lights on the top are refracting off the lights below," sheexplained. "So you're not just getting light from where thebulb is; it's literally encasing you in light." She'd been seeingparticular interest from clients for whom "reversing the signsof sun damage all over the body is a big issue. Any doctor willtell you, it really starts to show in your 40s-how many timesyou've been burned on your back.

    People don't want wrinkles on theirdecollet6 because they didnt put sun-screen there when they were sixteen."The thought of a dermatologictime machine-one that could pos-sibly prevent sun damage from eversurfacing-was certainly seductive.Also appealing: "that glow" she kept talking about.

    "'Want to see it on before you get in?" asked Vargas. "Itlights up like Las Vegas" She clicked open the lid (now it reallylooked like a clam) and flipped the switch. Nearly 5,000 high-input red and infrared lights silently snapped to attention.I slipped offmyclothes andclimbedinsidg excited aboutallof the neglected spots-my shoulderg upper back, the tops ofmy knees-the light would reach. The lid shut. It was a snugfit not a lot of wiggle room, though not uncomfortablg either.In an instant, I was ensconced in the bright glow of light thecolor of maraschino cherries. Discreet internal fans ensured

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    the temperature was kept cool. Vargas's prescribed 20 minutes While specific studies are indeed outstanding, many skin-went by relatively quickly. I zoned out peacefully, dreaming care professionals-and patients---continue to be encouragedof all of the premature aging I was so effortlessly combating. by what they consider tangible benefits.Afterwardg I felt. . . nothing. I looked. . . the same. But AtKateSomerville'sMelrosePlaceskinclinic-arevolvingthat's the thing with light therapy: To see resultg depending on door of Hollywood's A-list-lights play a key role in her leg-your specific goalg takes time and patience. Vargas is recom- endarily results-oriented treatments. "We've found the energymending a series of eight to twelve weekly sessions-as an really matters in terms of efficacy," she says "There's so muchadd-on after body treatments like microdermabrasion or her out there that doesn't put out enough energy to make a differ-green tea mask, or even as a quick, LED-powered refresher ence." Of Omnilux's blue-and-red-light device, "We absolutebin the morning "before work." If that sounds like a lot, it is, see results with it. For acng it has changed our whole clinic."but "I haven't had anyone not want to continue," she attests. Somerville incorporates red lights into her body treatmentsIndeed, it seems just the opposite. Cornelia Guesthasbeendutifullyhoppingintovargas'spodevery SUBTLTTY CAN BE HARD TC:ffi'ffiffffiJiigr;1:,ix?;:fjxx,,li,il?i. M rASU RE wH ERE BELI EVERS SEE Ahaveafreckledbosom,"'saysGuest,whogrewuprid- GLCW SKEPTICS SEE A GIMMICKing horses competitively in the Palm Beach sunshine." When I used to ride, I always had a hunt cap on, and I d to increase penetration of her dermal boosters-brightening,always put sunscreen on, but I'd get sunspotg right on the side clarifying, and anti-aging serums-and to 'Just tone the skin."of my face. This bed makes them so much lighter," she says. For bigger jobs-lax skin in need of a lift, for example-she"They are slowly, slowly going away." admits, "there are better things out there, like ultrasound orMother of two Nathalie Salame, who lives in London but Titan [a deep-heating infrared laser]. If you had twins, don'tfinds herself in New York every couple of months, takes liter- expect your stomach to bounce back."ally every opportunity she has to lay beneath Vargas's healing Speaking of bouncing back, no one was more surprisedlights. Asprepforherweekend-longfortieth-birthdaypartyin than I to be lying on my stomach with an arc of LED lightsMexico this past March, she went to Vargas's spa every single shining over my unclothed backside in front of aestheticianday for two weeks. "I could see a difference in my stomach, Joanna Czech.In her hotel-like spa suite at the Core Clubarms, legs. It tightens," she says. "It really helped with pig- on East Fifty-fifth Street, I was experiencing the Sapphire3mentation. We re building a house in Hawaii, and I want to Oxylight body facial, an exhaustive procedure incorporatingput a light bed in." LEDs, microcurrentg lymphatic drainage, microdermabra-Makeup artist Gucci Westman was sold after a 20-minute sion, and oxygen therapy. A favorite of clients "Trudie" andnap in the clam reduced a fresh black-and-blue bruise on her "IJma," the treatment uses light to optimize the various pro-stomach "by 75 percent! That's what made me think, Gosh, cedures and help infuse active serums deeper into the skin.what is this doing for my skin?" Now she's made it "a thing I "This is a preventative thing more than anything else,"do every week," and she says her pores look smallel her skin Czech cheerfully sing-songed while vigorously dry-buffingfeels tighter overall. "The only thing I will say: I wish someone the backs of my thighs. "Reversing aging, I'd say that's awas rubbing my feet while I was in there." very brave statement. Slowing down aging: definitely." OncePersonally, if my skin stayed pretty much the same and I was suitably exfoliated, she moved on to lymphatic drainagesimply stopped aging-i.e., if sunspots never surfaced, if I by way of cold vacuum therapy ("Is it painful? Can we goremained relatively smooth and toned head-to-toe-I'd be a deeper?"), pointing out a few stretch marks and capillariesvery satisfied customer. along the way ("I feel this is something we could concentrateAnd therein lies the controversy: Subtlety can be hard to on"). After a blue-and-yellowJight interlude (to help diffusemeasure. Where believers see a glow, skeptics see a gimmick. the look of "those visible capillaries"), she covered my skin

    "There's a lot of hocus pocus out there about them," says with a peptide-rich serum and picked up what looked likeManhattan dermatologist Neil Sadick, M.D., who has au- two hand-held headlights. They were clever little devicesthored several papers on red and blue light. "In terms of combining LEDs with microcurrents designed to stimulateactual clinical efficacy, decreasing inflammation, treating acne, circulation, tighten, and lift. The sensation was prickly,wound healing, and hair growth-that's where LEDs have like someone was pressing Lego pieces into my legs. "Thisgood scientific basis." For patients with diffused sun damage improves the quality of the skin. It's not slimming but eve-or actinic keratosis, the rough growths that may develop into ning out. Sort of like you put on makeup-all of a sudden,"skin cancers, "they are very helpful in activating chemical said Czech. For the final pasg she moved a light panel intosensitizers applied to the skin to kill off pre-cancerous cells." position that appeared to be standard-issue LED-until itHowevet he continues, "It's hard to imagine that these lights started misting me with chilly streams of oxygen, too. It wascould be useful for collagen tightening or skin remodeling." yet another way to push those serums (vitamins A and C

    But, as Wexler points out, "Infrared ligtrt is anti-inflammatory this time) deeper into my skin. "Piece of fruit?" asked Czech,and we know inflammation is responsible for aging. How producing a bowl of berries.could it not work on aging when inflammation ls aging?" When it was all over, Czech came over and gave me a"What's lacking is absolute proof," says Rox Anderson. squeeze. For the moment, I genuinely felt firmer, more com-"There's ample evidence that at the right wavelengths and at the pact. "If your skin looks healthier, your body looks better,"right timing, LED can help skin under stress On normal skin, she said, pleased with her work. And then, with a nonchalantthere's precious little evidence it does anything. I'm an incur- smilg she delivered the line I was getting so used to hearing:able optimist. But I'm also a scientist. Studies need to be done." "I believe in that glow." n

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