SPRING HAS SPRUNG

MOMENTS:An exploration of:

COLOUR

TEXTURE

LIGHT

THOUGHT

MOOD

STYLE

THEN AND NEXT

BLOSSOM BUDDIES

The mood of the season has un-doubtedly been a mixed one. Tra-ditionally ‘happy’ positive shades

have soured, with darker and more acidic edges tainting their light-

ness. Lilacs have a tinge of blue and bitter orange, whilst fuschias and pinks are duller and almost burnt

in their warmth. These colours have taken centre

stage this season, with minimalism taking a much needed step out of whites, navys and black, Head to

toe cerulean is the order of the day, while two, and even three, piece

suits are becoming more and more desireable and practical.

Texture and structure is more cru-cial also, with strappy corsets and

brick-like textures imperative to impress. Keep these monotone to

prevent over-complication.To top off these statement shades, the wearer only needs dark, angry brows to off-set any apparent girl-

ishness, and a taut topknot. Low maintenance but sombre hair and

make-up prevents the wearer from looking too over-considered.

COSTANZA, 23, HONG KONGCoat Marc Jacobs, Bag Louis Vuitton, Boots Kurt Geiger

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF LONDON’S STYLE?C: I think there is so much variation, it’s great!I’m originally from Milan, and although Italian’s have great style, they do all have a certain look. In London anything goes!

DO YOU THINK THAT HAS TO DO WITH THE DIFFERENT LABELS AVAILABLE?Partly maybe, but I think the Europeans like to play it safe a lot more. And like to invest in sta-ple pieces. Fashion is a lot more disposable here, which has its pro’s and con’s but it certainly makes shopping more fun.

WHAT ABOUT HONG KONG, THAT MUST HAVE AN INTERESTING MIX?Hong Kong has a really interesting mix, as there are some very traditional people there, but then the younger generations are really westernized. That makes for interesting people watching! Also there is so much wealth there, that it seems like everyone has just come straight from the catwalk!

THE

FINISHING

TOUCHES

For play, a contrasting clutch and statement necklace are always a welcome addition.

For work, a flash of white can cheer up a sombre all black uniform.

Taking cues from Costanza’s style of a simple outfit made more exciting by chic accessories, we show you how to do the same for every occasion. Statement accessories is the easiest way to inject some fun into low maintenance dress-ing. Perfect for days off, a busy working week or a last min-

ute night on the tiles.

For casual, leopard prints and faux fur are fun.

TRENDING:CR

ACK

ED

Out of the five senses, touch is prob-ably one of the most under-valued. However this season, texturisation is

bigger than ever. Designers have been drawing inspira-tion from everyday degredation such as peeling paint, splintered wood and raw brickwork. These urbanised elements should be softened with a feminine but minimal colour palette,

perfect for the warmer months.If pleated silk chiffon is not really your style, distressed white denim works equally well to tick this tactile trend box. This can be dressed up or down: see Proenza Schouler’s runway

for outfit inspo.

J.P.GBARBICAN

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ARTS AND CRAFTSThis seasons hottest prints come to life in simple sil-houettes. Classic seventies flares in pastel petal shapes go wonderfully by a matching printed tee. Printed pri-mary colour ruffles give new life to the iconic parka for evening. Last but not least a voluminous two-piece in an intergalactic pattern compliment statement ac-cessories eclectically.

‘something hollowed... and something blue’

King of the Sixties, David Bailey’s emotive and intriguing pho-tography shaped the way a generation looked at fashion, art and the unwitting lovechild of the celebrity phenomena we know today. He photographed rock stars, politicians and street thugs, and has al-ways managed to capture so much life, movement and emotion within still-im-ages. Visiting his showcase at the Nation-al Portrait Gallery: ‘Bailey’s Stardust,’ I found the variety of his work, really quite astounding. The influence he has had on modern fashion photography is im-measurable. This can be mostly seen in the timelessness of his images; it is hard to believe that they were taken some 40, even 50, years ago, as they are still so rel-evant, insightful and emotive. Famous for his black and white images, it is unusal that the poster image for the campaign is the ‘Skull and Flowers.’ Per-haps this is due to the themeatic imagery of the still-life; as the duality of light and dark; beauty and the monsterous; alive and dead, is so often featured amonst his work.

BAILEYSSTARDUST

WAREHOUSESHOOTERS EVENTOn a warm spring day in Shoreditch, Warehouse opened it’s doors to fashion bloggers, aspiring photographers and Elle readers alike. The event was in-spired by the Helena Christensen competition that was running with both Elle and Warehouse, hoping to find the next big fashion photog. With complimentary photographic themed snacks and drinks, a blow dry bar and nail art on hand, the event was not one to be missed. The most fun part of the event was without a doubt, the touch screen digital t-shirt printers where attendee’s could design their own graphic tee, which would then be printed in front of them, and wrapped up in a little brown par-ty bag.Inspired by diamonds and using the jewel tones of the season, I used a three column layout to create a symmetrical but almost abstract design.

behind the scenes:

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SANKEYS LAUNCH

In a disused warehouse in North Gren-wich, the Manchseter Megaclb made its southern debut this May. This was one party not to be missed. A huge 15 hour long festival of EDM was wel-comed by the eager crowd. The colours were electric to say the least.

SPLINTERED.

SPLINTERED.

SPLINTERED.

SPLINTERED.

SPLINTERED.behind the scenes:

Chinese artist Liu Bolin camoflagues himself into urban landscapes, this is an interesting exploration of texture, colour and performance art. I chose to use Bolins work as my inspiration because although an obvious choice, I liked how he used natural and man-made textures in his work.

Moreover, I like the element of surprise in his work. It can take a few seconds for the viewer to catch on. I also feel that is some-thing that I tried to achieve in my collec-tion, as when you see the first sketches to the finished garments, you can truely see the resembelence in the design.

Liu BolinSkream GalleryLondon

SPLINTERED.

The Italian textile industry emerged out of World War II it appeared, ironically it was the Fascist regime in Italy that meant that the clothing and textiles it produced had a definite guarantee of quality. There were 4 main components of the Italian fashion in-dustry: Leather, Knitwear, the Couturier and Textile production. Together these began to challenge the long-establish French, as being the most chic in Europe. It also helped that they had were much more affordable.

After the war, and once the economy picked up, the fashionista’s began to crave glam-our and opulence to juxtapose the war-time austerity and depression. They embroi-dered and embellished reams and reams of fabric, as the more volume and glitter a dress had, the more expensive it must be.

A man named Giorgini created the first Italian fashion week, based in Florence. All the great couturiers and craftsmen would showcase their creations. The shows were held at the regal Pitti Palace. Giorgini invited buyers from all over the globe, who came to Italian fashion for the first time, and they came in their droves.

Some of the greatest first style icons in the 1940’s and 50’s were Italian; Maria Antonel-li, Sophia Loren, Fernanda Gattinoni and Margaret Abegg. Italian cinema also helped to cultivate the idea of Italians being the new chic country. Films such as Roman Hol-iday and Cleopatra showcased Italian designs on a global scale. Italian brands became some of the favourites of some of the most household star’s of the day. For example, JFK enjoyed Italian tailoring and Elizabeth Taylor’s infamous love affair with Bulgari jewels.

As time passed, the ready-to-wear industry began to grow. Fashion trends which had once been exclusive to the uber-wealthy who could afford to visit couturiers for custom made clothing, were now available on a much larger scale, as factories and industriali-sation of Milan made it the centre of affordable fashion production. Also its increasing number of press and advertising centres helped contribute to the publication of this new ready to wear industry.

Now some of the most coveted designer brands and labels are of Italian heritage, in-cluding Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Fendi and Gucci. In particular, I enjoyed the Fendi Mink coat, the Etro prints, and the Valentino Bauble dress.

Please note: All images are property of the V&A museum.

gfw.Held at the Old Truman Brewery in Shoreditch, this years class

of 2014 did not disappoint. Every University had amazing unique work to show, although Northumbria’s stand was by far the most impressive, taking up almost a third of the first floor! As an undergrad fashion student, the exhibition was a hotbed

of inspiration and potential. From the amazing technical ability showcased in the construction of garments (see left, the incred-ible pleating and texturization), to the wonderous illustration

and design work.

One of the most interesting pieces of work was a dress sus-pended in a sci-fi tube from Manchester Metropolitan Univer-sity (below). For anyone even remotely interested in fashion, or

any field of design, there is something for everyone at the ex-hibition, and even if you don’t like fashion, there is always the

models milling around to catch your eye.

There was plenty of interactive things to do as well, from stalls selling vintage clothing, to Lon-

don College of Fashions life drawing sessions. The street style bloggers were out in full force as well of course, with plenty of chic students to photograph.

The highlight of the day was of course, the North-umbria University final year fashion show. We had great second row seats, which meant that we could

see the collections in all of their glory.

Overall, it was a very thought-provoking day, as it made me really consider what I want to do for my final year project. Although I am nowhere near de-ciding, it is slightly easier for me to actually visual-ise myself as a final year student now, which can’t

be a bad thing!

From the Northumbria University show, my fa-vourite collection was without a doubt Hannah

Dorkins. It was so unlike anything else I had seen that day. Although it had a very strong message and

concept, it was still incredibly sexy and I thought that the majority of the pieces were actually quite

wearable. They would look great in a fashion edito-rial too!

The last look which closed the show, was my abso-lute favourite, I really want it! It was so simple but

elegant and sexy!

Whilst I was at GFW I picked up the New Icons of Fashion Illustration by Tony Glenville, who actually

happened to be standing directly behind me! The sales person very kindly pointed this out, and Tony

signed my copy which was so lovely of him!

As you can probably tell, I have used the book quite a lot in the last few months for inspiration. Espe-

cially with my Splintered illustrations.

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