italy magazine - issue 72 - march 2009

people property holidays style culture food

the NO.1 magazine for lovers of all things italian

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E D I T O R ’ S P A G E

Print and Origination: The Manson Group Limited, St Albans, Hertfordshire. Distributers: Seymour, 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT. With thanks to: Vanessa Hill. Telephone: 0207 429 4000. International Sales: Through Poundbury Publishing Ltd: Contact Debbie Shorey. Telephone: 01305 266360. Copyright: Poundbury Publishing Limited©2007. All rights reserved. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or part without prior permission in writing. We welcome contributions that fit into the general theme of the magazine,but only on condition that no irreplaceable material is sent to us. All such material is submitted, received and held entirely at the sender’s risk. Important Notice We do our best to ensure that information is accurate but must emphasise that we cannot accept responsibility for mistakes and omissions. Opinions expressed are those of the authors; we shall endeavour to give an opportunity for alternative views in our letters column. All advertisers submit their own wording and we cannot, therefore, become involved in any disputes between advertisers and their customers. Those responding to property notices should be aware that the magazine goes to press a month before publication and that properties may have been sold in the meantime. Competition entries: These may be made in duplicate form, photocopied or hand-copied, as we realise you won’t want to cut the magazine. Correct entries will be drawn from a hat, or by some other equally random process on the stated date.

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C O V E RI M A G E … Spring uncovers a small cluster of housesand a church at the footof the Dolomites(Se feature on p. 26)Image courtesy ofFotolia©Ferdinando Conte

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IT IS AN INTERESTING time to reflect on how the world’s

perception of Italy has turned full circle. Long considered the

economic eccentrics of Europe, the values that are inherently

Italian are rapidly being hailed as the great virtues of the new

world. Living for and enjoying life today whilst saving for

future rainy days means that the country is in far better

shape than many others. It also helps that the worst effects

of globalisation have passed the country by.

The strong sense of culture, food and identity that is

enforced with charm and style mean that change from the

outside is slow to make an impact. It is not unusual to deal

with clients who welcome a phone call to tell them you have

sent an email to them, otherwise the email would sit unread

indefinitely. It is encouraging to see McDonald’s sited by the

motorway, out of town, rather than in the centre of Lucca.

Faltering attempts at speaking the language are almost universally encouraged

which is not the case in certain neighbouring countries.

The integrity of the cuisine comes from the belief that Italian food is the

best there is, and wonderment at why anyone would prefer another cuisine.

Simple food created from fresh seasonal ingredients: this is the philosophy

behind the creation of great dishes that are unsurpassed anywhere in the

world. As the skyscraper cities of Dubai and Las Vegas are being heavily

promoted as desirable and must-see destinations, I look forward to my trip

to Sicily next week and living life on a human scale.

This issue of the magazine goes some way to showing the huge diversity

of landscape, culture and cuisine that the country has to offer: from

mountains and lakes to marshy plains, from urban life to rural life. From the

PUBLISHED BY POUNDBURY PUBLISHING LIMITED, MIDDLE FARM HOUSE, MIDDLE FARM WAY, POUNDBURY, DORCHESTER, DORSET, UNITED KINGDOM DT1 3RS

ADVERT I S EMENT SALESAngelo Sangiorgio ~ Tel: 00 44 (0)207 5588497/00 39 0932 950222 ~ Email: [email protected]

Levinia Modica ~ Tel: 00 39 0932 950222 ~ Email: [email protected] Pacifico ~ Tel: 00 39 0932 457753 ~ Email: [email protected] Modico ~ Tel: 00 39 0932 457753 ~ Email: [email protected]

‘benvenuti’, welcome!

world of a triple Michelin star chef to our readers’ prize

winning spring recipes.

We visit the Maremma area in Sothern Tuscany/Northern Lazio

where the malarial marshes have been reclaimed, and look at

the horsemen who drive the cattle, a way of life that goes

back generations. For those with a head for heights, a visit to

the Brenta Dolomites offers not only spectacular views above

the clouds but an unforgettable walking experience. If you

are visiting Venice, look out for Alex Hai the only female

Gondoliera: in this issue we tell her story. Heinz Beck,

Rome’s 3 star Michelin Chef, tells us the secrets of his

enormous success and how he became a chef as a result of

a toss of a coin! We move from one cultural star to another,

and interview the vivacious singer Alexia in Table Talk.

We chart the rise in success of the very fashionable Piatonna

handbag and take a look at the beautiful and atmospheric Lake Como,

inspiration to many famous writers and composers, and a favoured location

for Hollywood film directors. Plus all our regular features, including advice

on working in Italy, our property for sale section continues to expand, and

we offer advice on how to purchase a property and show a selection of

properties for sale in various price ranges. If you are thinking of visiting Italy

in the near future or buying a property there, then do visit our redesigned

website at www.italymag.co.uk which is updated daily and has many

hundreds of pages of relevant information.

Ciao e a presto,

PE T E R SH AW – EDITORTourism Reporter of the Year

National Union of ItalianJournalists, 2007

ED I TOR Peter Shaw [email protected]

SUB ED I TOR Germaine Staf [email protected]

ART ED I TOR Paul [email protected]

WEBMAS TER Ronald [email protected]

WEB EDITOR Carla [email protected]

WEB COMMUNITY RELATIONSValentina Grassiccia

[email protected]

WEB CONTENT SUPPORTFrancesco Savatteri

[email protected]

SALES MAN AGERAngelo Sangiorgio

[email protected]

SALES EXECUT I V ELevinia Modica

[email protected]

SALES EXECUT I V ELuisa Pacifico

[email protected]

SALES EXECUT I V ETonia Modica

[email protected]

SALES SUPPORTMichele Iemmolo

[email protected]

AD PRODUCT IONJames Dean

[email protected]

SUBSCR IPT IONS& ACCOUNT S

Debbie [email protected]

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12 s e n s e o f p l a c eThis stunning gallery is a favourite destination among Milan's shoppers, with comfortable bars for for those who are left carrying the bags…

14 i but ter iOn her trip to the Maremma, once a malaria ridden area of marshland, Christine Webbmeets Italy’s last traditional ranchers, i butteri

2 2 walk ing in theBrenta DolomitesJane Gifford invites us on an unforgettable trek through the dramatic pinnacles, turrets, rocky outcrops and boulder-strewn slopes of the Dolomites

arts&culture9 l e t t e r s

10 w h a t ’ s o nOur guide to the most interesting events in Italy for the month of March

11 i n s i g h t a n d n e w sRecent interesting news items and perspectives on Italian life

4 4 d u a l l a n g u a g e– Rome’s medicine manGem Cameron takes a look at Galen, one of Ancient Rome’s most illustrious physicians, whose pioneering medical work was to survive unchallenged for over 1,400 years

c o n t e n t s

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Milan

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Genoa

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Sardinia

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S u b s c r i p t i o n sFor subscription details see pages 5 and 65.

1414Naples

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Pisa

Venice

3 63 6

Rome

Florence

Bologna

Sicily

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food &drink3 8 wha t ’ s up DOC?

Germaine Stafford examines the classification systems of Italian wine and asks if the quality of a wine is reflected in its label

3 9 t ab le t a l k : A lex i aGermaine Stafford questions well-known Italians on their attitudes to food

M A R C H 2 0 0 9 / I S S U E 7 2

Palermo

Tur in

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lifestyle2 8 A l e xand ra Ha i :

…gondo l i e r aMarc Millon enjoys a special excursion with Venice’s only female gondoliera and finds out what hurdles she had to overcome to join this elite profession

3 2 Rome ’s th ree - s t a r M i che l in ManJesper Storgaard Jensen catches up with one of Italy’s most revered chefs, Heinz Beck, and quizzes him on the various skills a modern chef needs to become a success

4 6 b a g s o f s t y l e – t h e i t a l i a n w a yGilly Turney talks to designer Pia Tonna, who, when she decided to launch her own handbag business, turned to Italy to realise her dream

71 b u s i n e s sIn our regular feature, Emma Bird looksat becoming self-employed, becoming a bilingual secretary and teaching in Florence

74 a n d f i n a l l y …

property4 9 L a ke C o m o

In our SPECIAL REVIEW SECTION,we take a look at a much loved area that has been charming tourists and stars alike for hundreds of years

6 3 the r igh t p r i ceCarla Passino shares advice on how to determine the right price for your property and make a savvy investment

67 t he p r i c e o f p rope r t y– p rope r t y unde r €140KJust what can you get for your money? Carla Passino goes property shopping with €140,000 in her pocket. Find out what she comes up with

67 t he p r i c e o f p rope r t y– p rope r t y unde r €430KJust what can you get for your money? Carla Passino goes property shopping with €430,000 in her pocket. We take a look at her finds

3 23 2

food &drink3 6 re c i pe compe t i t i on

Ronald Ashri presents the winning recipes of our Summer Food Lover’s event. Congratulations to both winners, Susan Reed and Seema Rao

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L E T T E R S

your lettersWe welcome your letters and emails to italy magazine. Write to us at the address you’ll find on page 5 or email us at [email protected]

The winner of our prize letter will be receiving a cheque for £25 to splurge on somelovely Italian wine or perhaps treat themselves to a beautiful book on Italy

I T A L Y 9

f l i g h t s o f f a n c yAs usual we fought over who was to read the Italy

magazine first... and my husband won this time!

However, I was interested to read an advertisement

for the Ipomea Club, Capo Vaticano, Tropea. This is

not an interest in the hotel as such, because we

have had properties in Calabria for the last 30 years,

but for the heading of the advertisement: ‘Be in

Calabria at the drop of a hat with new direct flights

to Lamezia Terme’. Popping back and forth quite

often and having Italian friends who come to visit

us on a regular basis, we naturally know all about

the great facility of being able to fly direct to

Lamezia and not going via Naples. However, I

wondered what this heading meant because ever

since October, Ryanair (who as far as I am aware

was the only English carrier to use this airport),

withdrew their flights to Lamezia! Knowing the

interest now in Calabria for the Brits, perhaps some

other enterprising airline has taken up this route, or

perhaps Ryanair have reviewed their policy, realised

their boo-boo and got their act together again. You

may be hopefully more in the ‘know’ than I am. I

also wanted you to be aware of this fact too for any

future articles you may have in the pipeline. Look

forward to hearing from you.

Mrs Jean Ireland

Thanks so much for your email Jean. We are

always grateful to eagle-eyed readers who spot

inconsistencies. Presently, Ryanair offer direct flights

to Lamezia from London Stanstead, Milan, Bologna

and Pisa and they look set to continue these

services. However, if we should hear of any change

in their schedule, we will be sure to pass the news

on to our readers. Meanwhile, hopefully this will

make life easier for guests lucky enough to join

you in your beautiful part of the world! ED.

c o f f e e c u l t u r eAfter spending some enjoyable New Year time in

Florence, I was, as always, embarrassed by my

forays into the world of coffee ordering. Spending

time each morning in the same café, I would,

through gritted teeth, order my ‘caffè Americano

con latte freddo’, suffering the polite stares of the

locals, all the while cursing my habit of finding

Italian coffee served either too strong or too small

for my liking.

Therefore, you can imagine my delight when a

helpful barman came to my rescue on my

last morning when my usual order was met with a

slow shake of the head, ‘No’, and the barman in

question retreated to the coffee machine. Thinking

I had been barred for my heathen ways, I was

about to turn tail and run when he glanced up at

me and, smiling, said simply, ‘cappuccio’.

Two minutes and some quite woeful Italian on

my part later, I was happily drinking what I was

assured was a variation on the cappuccino, only

larger and not quite as strong, feeling more at

home with every sip I took, now that I had ditched

my dreaded Americano. The only hitch was, with

my new found cultural freedom, I spent the rest of

that day hopping from bar to bar ordering cappuccio

after cappuccio, leaving me sleepless and wild

eyed for the entire evening!

Such is the seemingly individual nature of each

establishment you visit in Italy, I wonder if the

cappuccio shares the same qualities from bar to bar?

Adam Wileman, Acaster Malbis, York, UK

Hi Adam, your email really made me smile, as I

have often encountered similar problems. It’s true,

size and strength varies from one establishment to

the next, but thankfully most Italian barmen are

keen to serve you your cappuccino, or cappuccio,

as you prefer it. (Though no doubt they are trained

to favour some great Platonic cappuccino ideal.)

For real caffè enthusiasts, Gambero Rosso publish-

es an annual guide named Bar d’Italia where they

indicate the bars and cafés serving what they

consider the country’s best caffès and cappuccinos.

Happy drinking… ED.

PRIZEL E T T E R

c a n ’ t l i v e w i t h o u t y o uI honestly tried to give you up, with ourexchange rate being quite a nightmare at

the moment (South African Rand vs BritishPound). For four months I survived without

you – well, almost! But I finally surrendered,and once again you are back in my life.

I find that I can’t wait for that big, brown

envelope in my post-box every month.

I enjoy every page, every picture –

being taken away to my favourite place,indulging in wonderful food, and dreaming

of my very own villa. How can I thank youfor such a wonderful magazine? I dream

of visiting this amazing country, but untilthen, I will learn more and more every

month of Italy, its culture and its people.

I hope to visit the ‘La Dolce Vita’ show inLondon in March this year – one step closer to Italy’s doorstep.

In the meantime, I’ll keep on dreaming.

Who knows, one day I might just own a

villa in Tuscany, bought via your propertysection, and end up speaking Italian like a local, thanks to your website.Kind regards from Africa.Lietta Swanepoel

Gosh, Lietta, this might just be our firstreaders’ letter from South Africa. We’redelighted to hear you enjoy Italy magazineand that you are as enthusiastic about thiswonderful country as we are. I’m sure youwill love the Dolce Vita show, but in themeantime, good luck with realising yourItalian dreams and we’ll continue to doour best to be a difficult habit to break. ED.

£££££ £

£££££££££££££££

£25Cash Prize!

*LettersMAR Amend II:edit 22/1/09 11:49 Page 3

10 I T A L Y

E V E N T S G U I D E

ArtUnti l 20th Apr i lVenice, VeneziaVenezia 1915-1918. Immagini dallacittà in Guerra. Ninety years afterthe end of the First World War,this exhibition illustrates theunique experiences of Venice during the conflict through paintings, photographs and original documents. Location: Cassa di Risparmio diVenezia, Campo San Luca Web:www.museiciviciveneziani.it

Unti l 1s t May Venice, VeneziaRitrovare il Museo: Murano 1797-1859 dalle collezioni del Museo del Vetro. This is the first in theRediscovering Museums seriesand covers the extraordinary yetlittle known collection of early19th-century glassware. The showcontains some 135 works thatchart the period after the fall ofthe Venetian Republic when a fewmaster glassmakers introducedinnovative methods and rediscovered techniques of thepast, paving the way to the renaissance in the Murano glassindustry from the second half of the 19th century.Location: Museo del Vetro Web:www.museiciviciveneziani.it

13th March – Augus t 30th Florence, TuscanyGalileo. Images of the universe fromantiquity to the telescope. Explorethe extraordinary human andintellectual adventure that hasgiven us our current vision of theUniverse. The exhibition showshow the cosmos was envisionedand represented from ancienttimes right up to the ScientificRevolution. This fascinating journeybegins with the mystic visions ofEgypt and Mesopotamia, moveson to the Arabic contribution tothe science of astronomy and the

whats on inw h a t s o n

Christian approach to the conceptof the universe, and ends withthe revolutionary theory devisedby Copernicus that inspiredGalileo and Johannes Kepler.See scientific instruments, mapsof the heavens, drawings, paintings,sculptures and manuscripts fromthe world’s most prestigiousmuseums and libraries. Workingcosmological models speciallybuilt for the exhibition alongsidethe exhibits make for a truly captivating show. Location: Palazzo Strozzi Web: www.palazzostrozzi.it

M u s i c4th – 15th March Turin, PiedmontL’italiana in Algeri. ‘The Italian girlin Algiers’ was penned by Rossiniwhen he was only 21 and was first performed in 1813. BrunoCappanella conducts VivicaGenaux, Antonino Siragusa,David Alegret, Lorenzo Regazzoand the orchestra of the TeatroRegio in one of Rossini’s mostpopular operas.Location: Teatro Regio Web: www.teatroregio.torino.it

14th – 15th March Venice, VeneziaConcerto Bruno Bartoletti. BrunoBartoletti conducts the orchestraand choir of the Teatro la Fenicein a performance of BenjaminBritten’s War Requiem op. 66.Bartoletti’s fame was built on his 51 years at the Lyric Opera of Chicago and he has come out of retirement for this performanceof Britten’s stunning choral masterpiece. Location: Teatro La Fenice Web: www.teatrolafenice.it

23rd March Palermo, SicilyLarry Carlton Trio. Three timesGrammy winner Larry Carltonbrings his jazz fusion to Palermo.Carlton has collaborated with

many big names over the courseof his 40 year career includingJoni Mitchell, Steely Dan, MichaelJackson, John Lennon, QuincyJones and Linda Ronstadt to name a few.Location: Teatro Metropolitan Web: www.teatrometropolitan.it

20th & 22nd March Palermo, Sicily Faust. Internationally acclaimedTuscan tenor Andrea Bocelli isFaust in the lavish five act operaby Charles Gounod based looselyon Goethe’s Faust.Location: Teatro Massimo Web: www.teatromassimo.it

31s t March Florence, Tuscany Sinfonia n. 2 Resurrezione. ZubinMehta brings the MaggioMusicale’s season to a close withthe monumental Symphony n. 2Resurrection by Mahler. He conducts Barbara Frittoli (soprano)and Marjana Lipov!ek (contralto)and the orchestra and choir of the Teatro.Location: Teatro Maggio MusicaleFiorentino Web: www.maggiomusicale.it

E x h i b i t i o n s& S h o w s6th – 8th March Bologna, Emilia RomagnaBologna Mineral Show. This show isdedicated to gems and mineralogyand attracts 300 exhibitors and over 10,000 visitors to theVilla Nasicae. Location: Villa Nasicae Web:www.bolognamineralshow.com

6th – 15th March Turin, PiedmontCioccola-Tò. One of the severalItalian fairs dedicated to chocolate,this is one of the largest. This yearthe theme is Women andChocolate and guest stars will

March

include leading female chefs, writers of books about chocolateand female artists who work with chocolate. Location: Piazza Vittorio Veneto Web: www.cioccola-to.com

19th – 27th March Rome, LazioRoma Independent Film Festival.RIFF is a seven-day celebration ofnew European and Internationalindependent films. As well asoffering the chance for youngfilmmakers to present their workto the general public at filmscreenings, RIFF offers a series of special events including retrospectives, seminars and workshops on various aspects of cinema, as well as exhibitionsand theatre, dance, fashion, andconcerts. The festival concludeswith an awards ceremony. Location: Nuovo Cinema Aquila Web: www.riff.it

S p o r t14th March Rome, LazioRugby Sei Nazioni. The RBS SixNations Championship continuesinto March when Italy meetsWales at the Stadio Flaminio. Location: Stadio Flaminio Web: www.rbs6nations.com

10th March Turin, PiedmontUEFA Champions League. Juventusplay Chelsea in the first knockoutround of the UEFA ChampionsLeague. Location: Stadio Olimpico Web: www.uefa.com

Our essential guide to the most interesting events throughout Italy in March, including useful contact information to help you plan your visit

C O M P I L E D B Y F E L I X P E T R E L L I

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I N S I G H T a n d C U R R E N T A F F A I R S

I T A L Y 11

insight news roundupWe take a look at some topical issues and items that havemade the headlines in the popular press recently in Italy

QUARESIMA: If you come to Italy duringMarch, or if you are resident here, you willundoubtedly hear a lot about Quaresima, notonly in church but also in daily life. What isQuaresima ? It is the holy period of Lent, theforty days between the first Sunday in March(this year), until the Saturday before EasterDay, during which, believers fast and preparethemselves for the resurrection of Jesus Christat Easter. Until three or four decades ago,Italians were very strict about not eating meatand avoiding luxurious lunches during

Quaresima, though today’s habits are a littlemore relaxed.

LA STERLINA: The Pound Sterling has greatly

depreciated against the Euro recently. Indeed,

today, the two currencies are more or less of

equal value. Italians haven’t forgotten that

before the introduction of the Euro, one Pound

Sterling was worth around 3,000 of the old

Italian Lire. It is therefore a shock over here to

learn from newspapers and TV news that

apparently the Gross Domestic Product per

person in the UK is now lower than in our

country, and that consequently, on paper,

Italians are now richer than the British. If Britain

eventually joins the Euro currency area, it will

be interesting to see whether this is indeed the

case when it comes to purchasing power in UK

and in Italy.

COUS COUS AND BYREK: Italians arebecoming more and more used to the differentcultural and traditional aspects of the various ethnic groups that in the last ten years havebecome integrated into Italian society. IfChinese restaurants have been around foryears, Moroccan cous cous, Albanian pastriescalled Byrek and Arab kebabs are becomingcommon foods over here, and are now com-peting with traditional maccheroni and pizza. Ifyou consider that half of the building compa-nies in the region of Liguria are now run byAlbanians, and that more and more non-Italianscarry out express courier deliveries to Italianhomes, it’s obvious that Italy too is becoming amultiethnic society.

DRINKING AND DRIVING: Stricter laws

concerning drinking and driving in Italy have

arrived. The new Codice della Strada, Highway

Code, states that if you drink more than three

glasses of wine or more than one brandy, you will

not pass Police alcohol tests. Not only do you risk

having your driving license suspended for up to a

year, but your vehicle can also be confiscated and

sold by the State, depending on the judge’s deci-

sion on the gravity of the offence. This is some-

what of a cultural shock to Italians who were

traditionally a little careless when it came to drink-

ing and driving.

HEATING GAS: The cost of heating gasover here is twice that of the UK. You willrealise this by reading the gas bill these days,after a warm winter at home with the centralheating at full blast. As you probably remem-ber, Italy imports all its oil and thereforeenergy is more expensive here. If you live intown, this is not so bad as you will be burningtown methane, but if you have a private gascontainer in the countryside, you will beburning expensive butane gas. As an alterna-tive, try using your wood log burning stove,with 100 kg (un quintale) of cut and deliv-ered wood costing you only about Euro13.50, that produces radiant heating ratherthan convection heating.

TAX: If you have worked in Italy during 2008,

then this month you will receive a document

called the Cud (Certificazione UnificataDipendenti), that is to say, a document sent by

your employer which sums up income paid

and taxes retained at source for the financial

year 2008. If, instead, you were self employed,

you need to prepare all of your purchase and

sales invoices and prepare your UnicoDichiarazione dei Redditi, equivalent to your

Tax Return in the UK. Your commercialista,accountant, will not submit your return

before October, but you will have to pay tax in

June, so he will ask you to gather all the

necessary information this month, giving him

sufficient time to deal with the complex Italian

tax system.

In Italy, every woman expects to be spoiledon March 8th: here’s the reason why

i n s i g h t

Festa delle donne!

W O R D S : D O T T . A N D R E A A N T O N I O N I

ON MARCH 8th, we celebrate theFesta delle Donne, a day dedicatedto women. Officially this is

International Women’s Day, established inrecognition of women’s political, social andeconomic achievements and formally sanctionedand sponsored by the United Nations. All overthe world, different events are commemorated:New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of1911 where 146 women lost their lives; Russianwomen’s campaign against war in 1913 andtheir strike for ‘bread and peace’ in 1917 afterthe death of over two million Russian soldiersin war. But we Italians put our own special spinon the celebrations which tend to stray just alittle bit from the original themes of the day. Here,the festival has almost become as important andas commercial as Valentine’s Day or Mother’sDay, and restaurants, clubs and bars put onspecial nights to vie for the business of the ladies.

The day starts with husbands, fathers, sonsand even some employers giving the women intheir lives a bunch of bright yellow mimosa. Intruth, it isn’t actually mimosa but Acaia dealbataor the silver wattle. The fragrant clouds of yellowflowers are sold in truck loads throughout citiesto help out those not lucky enough to have ahome grown supply. There are special dealsthroughout the day for women and some museumsand clubs waive entrance fees for the day.

A Night on The TownThen the women get together to celebrate, andthis is the girls’ night out of the year. Restaurantsfill up with groups of women, who have speciallicence to do things they would not normally evenconsider. Teetotallers drink, normally discreetwomen pinch their male waiters’ bottoms andgo to clubs that put on strip shows a laChippendales especially for the feste delle donne.One restaurant I know of advertises the nightas Sexy Camerieri – sexy waiters – male of course.

I only know about this because of my yearswaitering while I was studying. If I hadn’t seenthe ‘exuberance’ of the donne on March 8th firsthand, I would not have believed it! And believeme, my female compatriots can be very exuberant!If you are visiting Italy in March this year, makesure that you make a big deal of the specialwomen in your life.

W O R D S : F E L I X P E T R E L L I

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12 I T A L Y

P H O T O S P R E A D

placeWHEN MOST FOLK talk

about going to the mall,they're not referring to a placelike the Galleria Vittorio inMilan, named after VittorioEmanuale II, the first king of United Italy, and built byarchitect Giuseppe Mengoni in the 1870s. But even if youdon't buy anything at any ofthe designer shops inside, it'sthe perfect place to enjoy asteaming hot coffee and somepeople watching.

I M A G E : F O T O L I A © P I X A C H I

a sense of place

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A S E N S E O F P L A C EA S E N S E O F P L A C E

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14 I T A L Y

excellent farmland of gentle hills gradually rolling to the sea. Evidenceof Etruscan strongholds and Roman municipium are here and there,but from time to time, villages were periodically abandoned as anenemy mightier than powerful armies drove the people into the hillsand left the land to droving cattlemen. Malaria decimated the popu-lations whose numbers had swelled in good years, and the Spanishcalled the area Maremma.

The cattlemen were expert horsemen who werereadily called upon by various armies for their

P L A C E

IButteri… ee-boot-air-ee. I practiced saying the name over andover. ‘No Cristina, i butteri … i butteri!’ said my friend, but stillI couldn’t quite get the stress on the right syllable or roll the‘r’ enough. Here I was, getting myself ready to rise at dawn

to witness a time-honoured, almost sacred ritual ofmen and I couldn’t get the name right.

An area of the southern part of Tuscany andnorthern Lazio is called the Maremma. It is

a beautiful natural part of Italy with

i butteriW O R D S a n d I M A G E S : C H R I S T I N E W E B B

Once a malaria ridden area of marshland andswamps, the Maremma is now the reign ofItaly’s last traditional ranchers

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I B U T T E R I A N D T H E M A R E M M A

services as cavalry. When they returned from battle to resume tendingtheir herds, the cattlemen retained some of the accoutrements oftheir mercenary life. While the horses and herds grew immune to theaffliction that devastated the community, the horsemen’s individualitywas at one with their steeds.

F I G H T I N G M A L A R I A

The area had many marshes, wetlands in the local dialect called padule. When Tuscany eventually came under the rule of the Houseof Lorraine in the 18th and 19th centuries, many public works saw

the marshes drained, in the coastal areas pine treeswere planted and the malady that affected the peo-ple was held at bay. At the end of the 19th century,the preventative cure of quinine was discovered andin the early 20th century, administration of thetreatment was aggressively pursued so that the areabecame completely free from it. The Maremmacould now be safely repopulated, and new farmingmethods changed it into the area we know today.

Gradually the semi-wild herds were replaced bymodern farming methods and the roll of the

Maremma horsemen contracted to managing merely five or six herdsin the wild coastal areas, now the Parco Regionale della Maremma,100 square kilometres centred around the town of Alberese, only15km south of Grosetto, the capital of the province. But where thestory of malaria ends, we come across another extraordinary, uniquelyItalian situation: that of the Azienda Regionale Agricola di Alberese.

The Agricultural Regional Company of Alberese is one of thegreater Italian regional companies. Situated in the heart of theMaremma, it oversees an area of 4,600 hectares, of which 700 is ofpine and approximately 2,000 of forest, much of which is part of the

the cattlemen were expert Horsemen who were readily called upon by various armies for their

services as cavalry


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P L A C E

the patrimony of the province as the symbol of themaremma rests on the shoulders of the butteri

P L A C E


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Parco Regionale della Maremma. Another 50 hectares hold vineyardsgrowing the grapes that produce the DOC Morellino di Scansanoand another 300 hectares comprises olive groves with more than80,000 trees where the cattle can range for some parts of the year.Lastly, there are another 600 hectares of cultivated land growingcrops and 500 of natural pastures.

B A L A N C I N G T R I C K

It is, in fact, a large farm. Where this takes a leap from the ordinaryis that the organisation of the estate has been continuous for 1,000

years, steadfastly preserving the natural balance of thezone, biological farming practices and of course, i butteri,the Maremma stockmen. The structure of the organization

it’s difficult to penetrate their world

is such that it survived centuries of the feudal age, the mezzadria system depicted so wonderfully in Bernardo Bertolucci’s film 1900,and more remarkably the Fascist era, the war and the collapse of themezzadria. Now, in the era of globalization, it has re-established itselfin the important niche market of biologically produced and tradi-tional foodstuffs that are now in demand more than ever.

So, at 7am, I am almost ready for the personification of thisremarkable agricultural history. The patrimony of the province as thesymbol of the Maremma rests on the shoulders of the butteri. If onlyI could get their name right.

At Spergolaia, on the road to Marina di Alberese, are the head-quarters and stables of the butteri. Straight backed men looking like

extras in a First World War movie move about the stables inwhispering silence. Their dress has an old fashioned utilitarian

appeal that reeks of masculinity. They are not a touristattraction but somewhat reluctantly allow themselves to be

photographed, yet again, as the symbol of their paese,their country. It’s difficult to penetrate their world.


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P L A C EP L A C E

Theirs is the world of horse and man ... men with natureand men of tradition. Think Australian stockmen por-trayed by Hugh Jackman or Clint Eastwood’s High PlainsDrifter, but whatever you do don’t call them cowboys.

T R A D I T I O N A L A P P A R E L

Their horses called Maremmano have been born here andtrained at their hand. The distinctive saddle is called abardella. The buttero’s attire is a short brimmed straw hat, awaistcoat with the company logo, and boots and shinpads to protect them from the cattle horns. Tightly rolledbehind the saddle is the pastràno, a linen coat that hasbeen rendered impermeable to the rain with beeswax.Most importantly, the buttero carries the mazzarella.This is made by each man from a long thin branch,stripped of bark and polished for strength. At thehead, an antler has been welded to the woodenbranch to make a multipurpose tool for goadingcattle, opening gates, picking up anything the ridermay need, because, once mounted, the butterorarely leaves his steed.

There’s a secret rapport between the butteri andtheir horses as they go about their day. In all weather,they supervise the herds of cattle, recognising eachbeast, when cows are ready to deliver. TheMaremmana cattle themselves are unique to Italy,bred entirely in the wild. In 1935, the total popula-tion of cattle was estimated at 274,000 head but by

the maremmana cattle themselves areunique to italy, bred entirely in the wild


I T A L Y 19

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the 1960s, with the onset of land reform and mechanisation, theyfaced extinction. Maremmana cows average 600kg, while the bullsweigh in at a massive 900kg and measure 155cm at the withers. Thecows’ horns measure 120cm and are a splendid lyre-shape, whilethe bulls’ are sickle-shape.

It is a rare and wonderful thing to see a way of life, nature andanimal breeds maintained without artifice… even if you can’t pro-nounce the name.

Ee-boot-ter-ee!

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MAIt is best to make an appointment through the Azienda Regionale

Agricola di Alberese (www.alberese.com) You may be luckyenough to observe the butteri from a distance on the road to Marinadi Alberese. The butteri also participate in many of the historic pageants in the town. In the town of Alberese, there is an outlet for products of the Azienda including riding outfits.

Parco Regionale della Maremma (www.parco-maremma.it)The best time to visit the Park in is in springtime, autumn and winter(September 16 - June 14). During this part of the year, visits are free,starting from 9:00am till an hour before dusk. All itineraries are open.In addition, the park offers tours by horse, wagon, canoe and bicycle.In the summer the beach is a natural magnet for sun lovers with freeaccess, but an entry/parking fee is charged. Picnics are restricted tospecial areas to protect the wild boar who happily feed on discardedrefuse, and it is forbidden to feed the animals due to the possibility of disease transmission or bite risk. It is best to start at one of the two visitor’s centres.

Alberese Visitor Center: Via del Bersagliere, 7/9, Alberese. Opendaily, October 1 to March 22, 8am to 1.30pm; from March 23 toSeptember 30, 8am to 5p.m. Tel: (+39) 0564 407098

Visitor Centre and Talamone Aquarium: Via Nizza, 12, Telamone.Open daily from September 1 to June 30, 8am to 1pm; from July 1 to August 31, 8am to midday, and from 5pm to 8pm. Tel: (+39) 0564 887173 Fax: (+39) 0564 887173

The official tourism site for the Maremma iswww.lamaremmafabene.it

The area has many agriturismi, farm stays. Farm holidays, specialist in green vacations: www.byfarmholidays.com

Hotel Rifugio Prategiano, Loc. Prategiano 45, 58026. This hotelenjoys a magnificent position overlooking the delightful Tuscan hillsides. Delicious local cuisine, the swimming pool and numeroushorseback excursions make this the ideal base for exploring theMaremma countryside.Tel: (+39) 0566 997700 Fax: (+39) 0566 997891Email: [email protected] Web: www.hotel-toscana-tuscany.com

Rome Fiumicino and Ciampino about 160k or 2 hours drive.www.adr.it

Pisa Airport about 170k, also 2 hours drive. www.pisa-airport.com

For more information including news and weather visitwww.italymag.co.uk/tuscany

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A N INVITATION to go trekking in the mountains can come as a daunting prospect when accompanied by pictures ofbronzed athletic figures in designer climbing-gear suspended

above death-defying drops… so I confess to some apprehension when Ifirst looked from my balcony in Madonna di Campiglio at what shouldhave been a spectacular view of the famous rosy dawn lighting the peaksof the Brenta Dolomites. Although right on my doorstep, the mountainswere barely visible through the rain-cloud (above).

Woken by bells, I rise quickly from the luxury of my bed at TheHermitage to catch a fading glimpse of chocolate-brown cows being herdedthrough the forest. Silhouetted pines make a romantic if rather dampimpression on me, but the weather does not otherwise inspire any senseof derring-do or desire to scale to lofty heights. Downstairs, a Jacuzzi,Turkish bath and beautiful pool beckon, and as yet, nobody has men-tioned the words cable and car to me.

The weather continues to be grim but we still make an early start. Ilook down at my printout of our intended destination, Rifugio Tuckett,and see it is wet. It shows an isolated stone building in a lunar landscape

Brenta W O R D S a n d I M A G E S : J A N E G I F F O R D

In the Adamello-Brenta Natural Park,although the weather in the valleymight be grim, a cable-car can lift you above the clouds

P L A C E

WALKING IN THE

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D O L O M I T E S

Dolomitesto walk on top of the dolomites is a fabulous

experience which I recommend to everyone,however unfit

in the sky. The T now looks more like an F, but I am relieved atleast to be standing in the queue for the Grostè cable-car. We have had the rules of mountain-walking firmly drummed into us: wearsturdy boots and a water and windproof jacket; let people knowwhere you’re going; don’t leave the path or become separated fromthe group; carry a map and fully-charged mobile phone. We are aparty of five: Deborah Dorigoni, our Trentino Rep, elegant in hermountain gear; Roberto Manni our nonchalant mountain guide,looking rather like Bruce Springstein; and we three English ‘Brentavirgins’, two with dodgy knees, one dressed more for the city thanthe mountains.

A B O V E T H E C L O U D S

Excitement mounts as the cable-car whisks us up the mountain. To our combined delight, we alight in bright sunshine and learn avaluable lesson which works firmly in our favour for the rest of theday: although the weather might be foul in the valley, the cable-carwill often lift you above the cloud. Of course, the opposite can alsobe true, and the weather can change in moments. But Roberto

shrugs and says even this doesn’t matter because red stripes alongthe path mean you can never lose your way. Veteran of expeditionsto K2 and Everest, he chats pleasantly as we walk and seems genuinely pleased by our obvious pleasure in our surroundings.After an hour or so, Deborah receives a worried call from the TouristOffice in the valley below. ‘The weather is worse in Madonna diCampiglio than it’s been for weeks. Are you OK?’ We are all in finespirits. Perhaps Roberto’s patience becomes a little stretched withthe umpteen photo stops we make along the way but he gives nosign of it.

To walk on top of the Dolomites is a fabulous experience whichI recommend to everyone, however unfit. As long as you don’t suffer from vertigo and can manage the cable-car, you can experiencethe wonder of these mountain heights. Our chosen route will takethe whole day. It is boulder-strewn and steep in places. To us itmakes an exciting challenge, but really it is easy-going. After amorning’s walking way above the tree-line and the clouds, we stopfor a simple lunch at Rifugio Tuckett before beginning our descent.No cable-car any longer for us fledgling alpinisti. Still bathed in


24 I T A L Y

of marked trails to explore, including many mountain-biking trailsof varying difficulty. There are twelve hundred species of flora forthe keen botanist to discover. Gentians, wild crocus and edelweissabound, along with an estimated twenty-five million trees.

The Park is home to thousands of chamois and deer, in all,fifty-one species of mammal, including the Alpine brown bearUrus arctos. By 1996, the bear was, however, facing extinction.Project ‘Life Ursus’ released ten bears in the park between 1999and 2002. One wandered up into Germany and was shot.Another had a narrow scrape with a motorist. The driver reportedit to the police and was considered far too drunk to be on theroad. Luckily for him, someone had heard of the project. Bearand driver escaped unharmed. Today there are around thirty

sunshine, we follow the path from Bocca di Tuckett into Vallesinellathrough forest and meadow to Rifugio Casinei. Over a drink, wedecide that despite aching knees and the prospect of walking indense rain-cloud and fading light, we will nonetheless followRoberto’s suggestion and make a two hour detour to some waterfalls…that’s how much we are enjoying our first day’s trekking. We arehooked. Vallesinella falls are really springs issuing straight from therock, fed from above by rainwater and travelling through a networkof fractures and caves within the Dolomitic limestone. During thewinter freeze or in summer drought, they often disappear. Our timingis perfect. The rain on the mountains which has provided the romanceof walking above the clouds now provides us with gushing waterfalls.

S P E C T A C U L A R S U R R O U N D I N G S

The Brenta Dolomites, a unique limestone landscape of dramaticpinnacles, turrets, massive rocky outcrops and boulder-strewnslopes, comprise the eastern part of the Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta. The Adamello-Presanella Massif to the west is a completelycontrasting granite terrain of lakes and weathered tors known as‘The Kingdom of Water and Ice’. The Park’s remit is ‘to protect thenatural and environmental characteristics of the area; to promotescientific study and the use of natural resources by the community;and to safeguard and enhance the natural, cultural and humanresources of the territory’. It extends over 620 sq km with 700 km

P L A C E

the rain on the mountains which has provided theromance of walking above the clouds now provides

us with gushing waterfalls

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D O L O M I T E S

the brenta dolomites took off as a fashionable destination for the intrepid rich of europe from

the 1850s onwards

S T Y L E S E T T E R S

The Brenta Dolomites took off as a fashionable destination for theintrepid rich of Europe from the 1850s onwards. John Ball, whofounded The Alpine Club of London, was credited with establishingthe first safe route to the summits above Madonna di Campilglio in 1864. Meanwhile, Quintino Sella (1827-1884) Italianindustrialist, scientist and politician, founded the ClubAlpino Italiano. However, the British continued to hogthe limelight – in particular Francis Fox Tuckett, (1834-1913), a modest and exceptionally talented Quakerbusinessman from Bristol who was a prodigiousclimber, mountaineer, explorer, inventor and

bears happily roaming the Park but there is noneed to fear their presence. Even as a keen bear-spotter, you are extremely unlikely to encounterone. If you are lucky, you might come across signsof their presence: tracks, raided beehives, perhapsa half-eaten animal carcass. Farmers are compen-sated for any lost stock and the draw of the projectas a tourist phenomenon far outweighs any costs.

Rifugio Casinei


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P L A C EP L A C E

mapmaker. He refused the presidency ofthe Alpine Club of London due, he said, tobusiness commitments, but he nonethelessfound time to bag 269 peak ascents andthe crossing of 687 mountain passes.Tuckett and British geologist, Freshfieldwere the first to climb Cima Brenta (below),the highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites.Popular with fellow Alpinists of all nationalities, Tuckett received the Italian order of Knight of San Maurizio andSan Lazzaro from King Vittorio Emanuele II. Rifugio Tuckett wasopened as a hostel on 20th August 1906. A second refuge has since been built next-door, dedicated to Quintino Sella.

Locals will tell you the main reason why they were not first to be recorded making these early ascents is because they did not havethe money for such costly expeditions. During World War One,known locally as the ‘White War of Adamello’, Italians suffered a farharsher forced encounter with these mountains entrenched as soldierson the summits at heights between 2500m – 3500m. Vie ferrate,metal ladders hammered into the sheer rock face, allowed them tomove about the gun emplacements. They suffered terrible losses inbrutally extreme exposed conditions. The iron ladders remain as areminder of their ordeal. They are still used, and you can follow a ‘Journey of Remembrance’ along marked trails to military siteswithin the Park.

L O C A L H E R O E S

Since these harsh times, the Italians have made a more triumphantmark on their mountains, with men from the 1930s like dashingpilot and World War Two hero Giorgio Graffer and Gino Corrà,both climbers from Trentino, making daring and dangerous ascentsof many of the Brenta peaks; and Bruno Detassis, known as the‘King of Brenta’, who opened up routes to the summits which, evenwith today’s modern equipment, are still considered a challenge.More recently, local hero Cesare Maestri from Madonna di Campliglio,dubbed the ‘Spider of the Dolomites’, has grabbed the headlines. Aspirited and controversial figure in his youth, he has invented manynew climbing techniques.

Today, the majority of visitors to Madonna di Campiglio arewealthy Italians, so there is no slacking on style in the region’shotels and restaurants. In winter, they ski. In summer, they explore.For those with less of a head for heights, there is still plenty to do.You could spend days just floating in the pool in the ‘Wellness

…the majority of visitors to madonna di campiglioare wealthy italians, so there is no slacking on style

in the region’s hotels and restaurants


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>> Visit www.italymag.co.uk/map-of-italy for location detail

D O L O M I T E S

Centre’ at the Hermitage, admiring the tasteful décor and stunningview. The hotel has been run by the Maffei family since 1899.Situated on the edge of town, it’s a favourite hideaway for celebrities.Juventus have their summer training ground close-by. Game is thelocal speciality but there is still plenty to enjoy for those of a lessmeaty persuasion. I love the ambience and inventiveness of themenu at Il Gallo Cedrone, in Hotel Bertelli, especially their versionof the traditional dish cassunziei, (beetroot ravioli) served withlavender-flower mousse and spinach salad.

L O C A L S P E C I A L I T I E S

Wines and cheeses from Trentino are generally excellent. A greatplace to enjoy them is for Sunday lunch with the Tisi family atCasa al Campo, a restaurant on an organic farm closeby in ValRendena (below) near Pinzolo. Everything served will be local,most of it produce from the farm. It will be packed, so book first.Pinzolo is an interesting old town famous for the sixteenth-century fresco on the Church of San Vigilio, La Danza Macabra(above) - a reminder from the Baschenis brothers that death comesto us all, no matter how grand. The tower dates from the beginningof the tenth century. Next-door, a World War One gun commemoratesthose who fell in ‘The White War’. The people of Val Rendena andPinzolo have Celtic roots stretching back more than two thousandyears. Here they did not espouse the feudal system. This was thedomain of the knife-grinders.

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DOLOMITESTourist Office Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Via

Pradalago 4, Madonna di Campiglio. Tel: (+39) 0465 447 501 For a fantastic range of maps, guides and all other information the following sitesare useful; www.campiglio.to www.pnab.itwww.dolomitibrentabike.it www.pinzolo.to

MOUNTAIN HOSTELSRather than walk down each day, plan your route to eat and stay overnightin the mountains. Simple food and accommodation in stunning surround-ings: Alimonta: Tel (+39) 0465 440366 – Boch: Tel (+39) 0465 440465Brentei: Tel (+39) 0465 441244 – Casinei: Tel (+39) 0465 442708Grostè-Graffer: Tel (+39) 0465 441358 – Lago delle Malghette:Tel (+39) 0465 440814 – Lago Nambino : Tel (+39) 0465 441621Tuckett: Tel (+39) 0465 441226 – Viviani Pradalago:Tel (+39) 0465 441200

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIOBio-hotel Hermitage & Restaurant, Stube Hermitage (4 star)Via Castelletto Inferiore 69, Madonna di Campiglio. Unbeatable viewand Wellness Centre. First class accommodation with the Maffei family.2003 awarded Qualità Parca for making minimal impact on the environmentin terms of recycling, building materials and energy consumption. Tel: (+39) 0465 441558 Web: www.biohotelhermitage.itHotel Bertelli - Wellness Centre & La Taverna ‘Il Gallo Cedrone’(4 star) Via Cima Tosa 80, Madonna di Campiglio. Fabulous food andcharming service. Excellent wine cellar. The welcome hors d’oeuvre is a feastin itself. Hosted by the Masè family since the 1930s. Tel: (+39) 0465 441013Web: www.hotelbertelli.it www.ilgallocedrone.itVal Rendena & Pinzolo, Casa al Campo. Excellent local food and accommodation with the Tisi family on a working organic farm in the countryside. Tel: (+39) 0465 500290 Cell: (+39) 3385008438Web: www.casalcampo.com

BY CAR: A4 from Milan - Verona, exit Brescia EstA22 Bolzano – Modena, exit Trento Centro or Roverto SudBY TRAIN: FF.SS Trento- Brescia BY BUS: Links - Trento, Milano, Brescia BY PLANE: Airports: Milano-Lintane, Milano-Malpensa, Bergamo-Orio alSerio, Breschia-Montichiari, Verona-Villafranca, Venezia-Marco-Polo

Madonna di Campiglio: Compleanno dell’Imperatore.The Emperor’s Birthday, 18th August: an historical revival of the HabsburgCourt. Pageantry, parades and music Val Rendena: Dance Theatre Festival, 29 June – 6 JulyFestival dei Antichi Sapori, late SeptemberI Giorni dei Funghi 29 Aug–14 Sep. Guided walks with a mushroom expert.Collect and identify mushrooms and learn to prepare and cook them atHotel Bertelli with chef Vinicio Tenni

For more information including news and weather visitwww.italymag.co.uk/italy/place/trentino-alto-adige

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A R T S A N D C U L T U R E

Enjoy a specialexcursion with

Venice’s only femalegondoliera

W O R D S : M A R C M I L L O N I M A G E S : K I M M I L L O N

Alexandra HAI:


WE ARE IN a gondola in Venice,gliding along the back canals ofDorsodoro, enjoying the silence,

the beauty of this watery city, far from themadding crowds. From this unique watersideperspective, houses back directly on to thecanals, and boats are moored against woodenposts by rear entrances. Occasionally, we geta glimpse into dark interiors, a salotto, a

kitchen, a Murano chandelier, and we catchthe occasional whiff of delicious aromasemerging from barred windows in antici-pation of the midday pranzo. This is aprivileged, insider’s, backstreet view ofVenice, a world away from the bustleand craziness of the tourist spots of

Rialto and San Marco, where gondolastravel in procession, complete with requisiteattendant Neapolitan crooner.

A W O M A N ’ S T O U C H

We have been transported to this other,quieter world through the skill of our gon-doliera, Alexandra Hai. We sit back in thecomfort of this amazingly sleek and uniquecraft, sip glasses of Prosecco, relax and takein the sights as Alex propels us. From theRio S. Travaso, we pass a squero, one ofVenice’s few remaining gondola boatyards,and continue our smooth and undisturbed

… gondoliera

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I T A L I A N J O B – G O N D O L I E R I

would you stop such a craft if you had to, withonly a single oar? Alex is concentrating hard,determined; her counterpart similarly doesnot hesitate. The two boats are on an apparentcollision course, soon upon each other, aseach continues forward with the rhythmic,silent, unrelenting push of their oars. Just as itseems we are about inevitably to crash, bothgondolieri make what must be an almostimperceptible adjustment: we glide past, oarslifted like guns at ease, side virtually scrapingside – yet there is no contact.

It is a sublime moment of supreme skill,confidence, bravery, (and perhaps a touch ofbravado), neither Alex nor her approaching,now disappearing alter ego, exchange a word,hardly a glance. Was it a dangerous game ofbluff, or simply the day-to-day rough-and-tumble of gondolieri plying their trade skilfullyand expertly on the crowded canals of Venice?

P U R P O S E B U I L T

The gondola is a unique craft that evolvedover centuries from its origins as a means oftransport between the many islands out ofwhich Venice was formed. The need was for acraft that could be manoeuvred by rowing,not only through narrow canals, but alsounderneath low bridges and in shallowwaters, able at the same time to cope withstrong tides and currents as well as with thefickle and sometimes fierce winds that sweepacross the lagoon. Other uniquely Venetiancraft emerged, too – the sandolo, sanpierota,and the mascareta, for example. But the gondolareigns supreme, has become the very symbolof the city.

In its heyday in the 17th century, it is esti-mated that there were as many as 10,000 gondolas at work in the busy mercantile city.At that time, the gondola was a private craftand would have had a felse or cabin for pro-tection from the elements as well as to hidethe identity of those within, handy especiallyfor those Casanovas travelling incognito tosome secret assignation or another. Since1562, this unique craft has always beenpainted black on account of sumptuary lawsdesigned to prevent ostentatious rivalrybetween the noble families.

In the pecking order of Venetian society,gondolieri held a special status, according toVenetian historian Francesco da Mosto. Theywere retained by the nobility, but were con-

rowing known as voga allaveneziana. As the space betweenthe two craft diminishes, I amaware of weight of the boat, itstravel as it glides forward with eachforceful push of the oar throughthe smooth waters. How, I wonder,

journey. The canal is narrow and I can seeahead that it bends at 90 degrees. Alex’s gon-dola is nearly 11 metres long, and though it alarge and relatively heavy craft, at thismoment it also seems delicate and potentiallyfragile. As we approach the bend, Alex givesout a calm but forceful cry, announcing ourpresence around the blind corner. She carrieson straight towards the wall in front of us,then, noting the precise point to pivot hercraft, she leans heavily on the oar, whichturns the boat gracefully, the sculpted metalprow, or ferro, missing the stone buildingahead by mere millimetres, the back endswinging perfectly into line.

Corner negotiated, we continue on ourway up the Rio S. Barnaba. The canal is busierhere, with boats parked along either side, andnot much room in the middle of the passage.Ahead, we see another gondola approachingus, silent, gliding as swiftly towards us as weare moving towards it. Alex does not hesitate,continues to push the oar with an insistent,rocking forward stroke, the Venetian form of

… the sculpted metal prow, or ferro, missing the stone

building ahead by mere millimetres…


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sidered, not as servants, rather as ‘lower rank-ing friends and confidants’. The professionwas often handed down from father to son,and the gondolieri were proud of their rowingprowess as demonstrated in the city’s variousregattas. Many were also apparently quite lit-erate, versed in Venetian poetry and art.

The modern gondola is still a hand-builtcraft, measuring just under 11 metres inlength and weighing upwards of 600 kilo-grams (the exact proportions vary from boatto boat as, ideally, the craft is made to meas-ure, to take into account the weight of thegondoliere). Constructed from a variety of dif-ferent types of wood, it is sleekly elegant andbeautiful, especially when decked out with itsfinal fittings, seats, cushions and other finery.Each is unique and individual.

P E R F E C T L Y U N B A L A N C E D

One of the most striking features of the gon-dola is that it is longitudinally asymmetricalwith a greater depth on its port side, so con-structed so that the boat can follow astraight course when rowed by propul-sion from the starboard side only.Indeed, the unique Venetian style ofrowing – voga alla veneziana – is virtual-ly an art form in itself, and certainly askill that requires some years of dedica-tion in order skilfully to be able to be incontrol of this delicate craft on thecrowded and narrow canals of Venice.

When Alexandra Hai, a youngGerman woman, came to Venice, she,like many others before her, fell inlove with the city and with the gondo-la. Unlike most who visit or choose to makeVenice their home, she decided that she actu-ally wanted to learn to master the mysteriesof how to row a gondola. Her dream waseventually to become proficient enough to beable to join the elite profession of gondolieri.

Today there are just over 400 gondolieri inVenice, an exclusive and traditional male-only profession that in many cases is handeddown from father to son. Some gondolieri cantrace their Venetian roots in the professionback for literally centuries. The majority areVenetian-born, so the difficulties for both aforeigner as well as a female were consider-able from the outset.

However, Alex found a sympathetic gondo-liere who was willing to teach her the ropes.

She dedicated herself over a period of years tolearning this difficult art, which involves notonly propelling the craft effectively, but alsomastering the intricacies of Venice’s myriadnetwork of canals, as well as the natural andalways varying conditions of tide and wind.To gain proficiency, she worked for a lengthyapprenticeship on a traghetto, rowing touristsand residents across the Grand Canal as aferry service, a job that is poorly paid but inwhich you learn how to deftly handle a gon-dola within this always busy thoroughfare.

O L D B O Y S ’ C L U B

More difficult to negotiate still, was to findher way through the arcane and closed poli-tics that still dominate life in this watery and

anachronistic city. That Alex was not welcomed into the guild of gondolieri withopen arms would be an understatement.Perhaps, given the historical antecedents andthe tradition of the profession, it is not surprising. Three times she took the practicalexamination, manoeuvring her gondolaaround the canals of Venice; three times shewas failed by the examiners.

Officials have publicly proclaimed thatAlex did not succeed simply because she wasn’tgood enough, that it had absolutely nothingto do with her being a woman or a foreigner.Yet anyone who steps foot in Alex’s gondolawill know with absolute certainty that this isa person with supreme mastery of her craft andwith a tremendous knowledge of and respectfor the traditions and history of the gondola.

Not to be denied, Alex met the officials ina court of law. She became something of acause cèlebre, and there have been articles ofsupport for her in the local newspapers.Italian society is changing and women’s

rights are finally becoming an impor-tant issue. By invoking an ancient by-law, she eventually won the hard-earned right to be able to ply her trade,though only privately for guests whostay as residents at a small group ofhotels with whom she works.

Though this does not entirelyredress the unfairness of the situation,and though some gondolieri still resenther presence on the waters and makethis more than clear, it is a solution ofsorts. Alex has achieved her dream.And in any case, she far prefers working

in this manner as she not compelled to standon a quayside corner, soliciting for work:‘Gondola, gondola!’ Rather, her clients canbook a gondola ride in advance with herthrough the hotels, and she is able to give abetter and more relaxed, as well as a moreprofessional service.

A gondola ride in Venice should be one ofthe highlights of any visit to this magnificentwatery city. A gondola excursion with Alex Haiis a rare and very special experience indeed.

For more information, visit IncantesimoVeneziano Web: www.incantesimoveneziano.com Email: [email protected]: (+39) 347 8869753

italy

I T A L I A N J O B – G O N D O L I E R I

She dedicated herself over a period of years to learning

this difficult art…


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compensates for this. The look in his eyes isdirect, the flow of Italian words, pronouncedwith a charming German accent, is fluent andBeck’s charisma and willpower are especiallydynamic. And of course we shouldn’t forgethis skills. In 2008, for the third year running,La Pergola was assigned three highly sought-after Michelin stars, the only restaurant inRome to be so favoured. The well-knownItalian gastronomic guides, Gambero Rosso andGuida Espresso, long ago discovered the Germanchef’s qualities, and for the last three to fouryears, La Pergola has constantly been in thetop three of Italy’s very best restaurants.

This is all the more fascinating when youconsider that Beck’s career actually started as

somewhat of a coincidence. At least, that’show the rumour goes: the two Beck brothersdrew lots to decide which one would choosecooking as a profession, because in the Beckfamily two chefs were considered one toomany. Heinz Beck laughs shyly and says:‘Yes, it’s a true story. We drew, I won, and...the rest is history.’.

C L I M B I N G T H E R A N K S

Before Heinz Beck came to Rome in 1994,summoned by the Hotel Cavalieri Hilton’sthen manager, he had been gaining experiencein well-known restaurants in Germany andSpain. At only 31 years of age, he becamehead chef for a restaurant which did nothave any particular reputation. However,hard and purposeful work paid off after fouryears, when La Pergola in the 1998 editionof the Michelin Guide was given its first star.Star number two was obtained in 2001, andafter another five years, in 2006, Beck crownedthe achievement when his restaurant was giventhe third star. What was his recipe for success?

‘Over time, I have introduced a modernand light cuisine based on the Mediterraneantradition. We then introduced a number ofnew ingredients to create imaginative andoriginal dishes. Later, when I felt the kitchenhad been taken to a sufficiently high level, Istarted to focus on the dining room and theservice. It was important to bring the serviceup to the same level as the kitchen.’

ROME’s three-star…

***

Heinz Beck drew lots with his brother to decide which of the two was to cook,won the draw, and ended up becoming one of Europe’s most famous chefs

MICHELIN Man

ROME: As I contemplate the wonderfulview from the roof terrace of therestaurant La Pergola (above), high

above Rome’s thousands of churches, monu-ments and yellow-brown roof tops whichdown below are lit by a golden autumn light,I can’t help thinking that this spectacularview must necessarily constitute a metaphorfor La Pergola’s gastronomic qualities. But Imust stop giving myself over to the panoramicview: Heinz Beck, La Pergola’s world-famouschef, is ready for our interview.

Lo chef, as Beck’s staff often call him witha mixture of sympathy and awe, is not a tallman. On the other hand, one quickly understands that his personality more than

W O R D S a n d I M A G E S : J E S P E R S T O R G A A R D J E N S E N F O O D I M A G E S : L A P E R G O L A

Heinz Beck drew lots with his brother to decide which of the two was to cook,won the draw, and ended up becoming one of Europe’s most famous chefs

_Heinz Beck IV:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 11:59 Page 2

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I N T E R V I E W– H E I N Z B E C K

‘Over time I have introduced a modern and light cuisine based on the

Mediterranean tradition’



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But the quality of the dining experienceand the food is one thing; the economicpart of restaurant administration is quiteanother. Beck is very conscious of the connectionbetween these two parallel aspects. As hesays: ‘Some people might think: Ah, it’s easyfor Beck. His restaurant is in a hotel. He cando what he wants to do, when it comes tospending money. Unfortunately, it’s not true.I’m a part of the hotel, and I have to make aprofit.’ But when one hears about La Pergola’sactivity level, one imagines the profits arenot trivial. Indeed, La Pergolas’s 55 seatshave been completely filled for the past nineyears, and to be sure, to get a seat in Rome’sprincipal gastronomic temple, you need tobook something like three to five weeks ahead.

Q U A L I T Y A N D A E S T H E T I C S

Beck has long achieved international recognitionfor the perfect interaction between his dishes’taste, aroma, and the quality of the rawmaterials on the one hand, and the restaurant’satmosphere, service and aesthetics on theother. Harmony, innovation and lightnessare some of La Pergola’s key qualities, andBeck sums up his philosophy like this: ‘Thegenuine taste of the dishes, the quantity,digestibility and healthfulness are all essential.The importance of the taste is no surprise.But the quantity and the interval betweentwo dishes are also extremely important.The running time between two dishes must

not be too long. If it is, our stomachs willchange from a receiving process to a digestiveprocess, and that’s not what we want. TheAlpha and Omega in our cuisine is lightness,meaning the dishes’ digestibility.’

Another aspect, considered a Heinz Becktrademark, is the quality of the raw materials,which, according to Beck, means everything:

‘I can mention, as an example, that wereceive live Norwegian lobsters. Three hoursafter their arrival, we kill them and preparethem as lobster fillet. We never use deep-frozen lobsters, because it’s impossible toconserve their consistency and taste due tothe fact that their natural content of waterdisappears during the process of deep freezing.If there is one place where I never compromise,it’s on the raw materials. They have to be ofprima qualità,’ says Beck with an adamant look.

When it comes to the typical Italian loveof beauty and aesthetics, one might tend tothink that these virtues would be less essentialto a pragmatic German. But when Beckstarts to gesticulate like an Italian and speakenthusiastically about what he calls thedishes’ ‘architecture’, one knows he is farfrom being merely a pragmatic German:‘The different ingredients must have the rightrelationship with one another. The highestingredients must be at the back, and theshadows on the plate must not be too pro-nounced. Dark sauces should go under lightersauces. Aesthetics are, of course, importanttoo, but bear in mind the golden rule: aesthetics can never replace taste,’ says Beck.

C H A S I N G C L I E N T S , N O T S T A R S

And what does Beck think about the ‘stardom’of many famous cooks, especially in theAnglo-Saxon world? ‘Well, I’m not exactly infavour of that way of looking at things. I liketo see my profession in a different way. I’m afairly humble person, but I also know that Ihave something to say. Remember that thework of a cook is very complex. You musthave aesthetic qualities, you must be creative,you have to be productive every single day,you have to let the press get to know you, youmust make a profit and so on. I think thatvery few other professions are so complex.’

Time is running out, and only one morequestion can be put to Beck who, duringour interview, is ever more frequently beingcalled to the kitchen. So I ask him teasinglywhere he, with his extreme focus on quality,takes his wife, when they want to wine anddine? Beck laughs and shrugs his shouldersin an almost shy manner: ‘Believe me, it’sreally all too seldom that I take my wife out.In the last 13 years I have spent almost allmy evenings here at La Pergola.’ italy


WHO IS HE INZ BECK?Heinz Beck is German, born 1963.

Since 1994, he has been the Executive Chefat restaurant La Pergola, Rome. Today he is considered one of Europe’s leading chefs.

In the Michelin Guide, editions 2006 and2007, La Pergola received three Michelin stars.The restaurant is considered among the three

best in Italy.Heinz Beck is the author of several books

on gastronomy and restaurant administration.Several of his publications have received

important awards at the international festival forgastronomic literature, ‘The Gourmand World

Cookbook Awards’.In 2000, he was rewarded with the distinction

‘The Artist’s Gold Medal’, which is awarded byRome’s La Sapienza University. It was the firsttime in the 30 years this distinction has been

awarded, that it was given to a chef.In 2005, Heinz Beck was adviser to the

famous Italian pasta manufacturer De Cecco during the development of a new ready-made

pasta sauce.

HOTEL AND RES TAURANTHotel Cavaliere Hilton, Via Cadiolo 101, Rome.La Pergola, the restaurant of Hotel CavaliereHilton, is situated on the hotel’s ninth floor.

Tel: (+39) 06 3509 2152 Web: www.cavalieri-hilton.it/indexx.htmlTo book a table: it is recommended to make

reservations three to five weeks in advance. Forweekend bookings (Fridays and Saturdays), it

might be necessary to book even further ahead.Email: [email protected]

Tel: (+39) 06 3509 2152

PRICES: 9-course menu: 195.00 Euro, withoutwine; 6-course menu: 160.00 euro, without wine.Further information on menus and prices can be

seen on Heinz Beck’s homepage:www.heinzbeck.com

WINE CELL AR: La Pergola’s wine cellar contains some 50,000 bottles, of which you’ll find

2,600 different labels. 60% of the wine stock isItalian, 30% is French and the remaining 10% is

from other countries.

details


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36 I T A L Y

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husband Mario who would come home from work for his lunch. Weate at 1pm prompt every day, always il primo followed by a delicioussecondo accompanied by red wine and followed by another espresso.Usually the grappa was reserved for after the evening meal.

I love everything Nai has cooked for me over the years and havelifelong memories of times we spent together. My husband and I goover to stay with her in Venice as often as we can. She still loves tocook outstanding meals for us. Probably my favourite spring pastadish was the one she made with zucchini which I have adaptedslightly. It is so simple and yet delicious and satisfying.Biography: I am married to Alan Reed who is a professional watercolourartist and loves to paint scenes of Italy. We live in Northumberland and I work alongside him in our business. We travel regularly to Italy,America and the Middle East for painting commissions.

ROMANCE is an experience that is hard to define. If you hadasked me when I was 16, I would no doubt have said that itinvolved flowers, fancy dinners and jewellery (preferably

platinum). Much older now, I have come to the conclusion that romanceis complicated, tied to the moment, and, most importantly, ephemeral.

Spring is particularly romantic. After all, nature is in love at thetime: the trees are in bloom, the robins are laying their eggs. InCleveland, after a winter cooped up with a toddler, the arrival ofspring was particularly welcome. The spring market offered us somany lovely and welcome additions to our diet - nettles, pea shoots,morels and, of course, the wild spring leeks – ramps.

The Allium family is a sort of aphrodisiac - or more accurately,they do promote camaraderie and pairing. Only one person in acouple consuming garlic bread results in, well, no kissing. Whenboth consume, anything is possible.

When our friend told us that we could forage for ramps on theirwooded lot, we jumped at the chance. Like all good romantic expe-riences, the sweetness and enjoyment of the event snuck up on us.

My husband and I arrived at the lot just before sunset, bag andshovel in hand. The air was moist - it had rained that morning. Onthe way down to the river, as we passed the newly blooming prim-roses, we spoke. Nothing special, we just talked. When you spendso much time talking about work, bills, errands, babies, just talkingis an incredibly romantic moment.

IN THE 1980s, I lived in Venice for five years, and very shortlyafter arriving, I met a delightful old lady called Nai. The Italianlanguage was unfamiliar to me, but she spoke beautiful English

and took me under her wing, and with her tuition I was able tounderstand quickly.

I spent many mornings with her as she taught me about theItalian culture, the history and most of all, shopping and cooking.All the food was bought in fresh on a daily basis. We would carryempty litre bottles of wine to be filled at the local bottega, thenacross the way to the supermarket for a litre bottle of grappa, and to the tabaccheria for her cigarettes - ‘Esportazione’ (the samebrand that she had smoked since the war).

Just a few yards from her house in Via Garibaldi, the fruit andvegetable boat would come up the canal early morning and stayuntil 12:30. We would always go there to buy all the fresh produceshe would need for the carefully planned menu of the day. Amongstmy favourite vegetables were the carciofi already prepared, floatingin a bucket of water. These had to cooked almost immediately tostop them from turning brown.

We had to be back in time for our third espresso of the day beforeshe would begin preparing a most wonderful gourmet meal for her

zucchiniRECIPE COMPETITION

pasta

The winning recipes of our Summer Food Lover’s event are presented below. Congratulations to both winners, Susan Reed and Seema Rao

The competition offered an impressive range of recipes and the final choice was certainly not an easy one. The theme was ‘Spring Pasta’ dishes, the idea being that few and light ingredients were required for wonderful, fresh and easy results.

I N G R E D I E N T S(for two peop le)

175g of orechiette pasta2 large zucchiniClove of garlicOlive oil25g fresh Parmesan, gratedHandful chopped flat leaf parsley! lemonHandful toasted pine nuts (optional)

PreparationSlice the zucchini as thinly as possible (I use the flat side of my grater). In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil with the garlic left whole (just to addflavour), and fry the zucchini in small batches so they brown quickly.When cooked, drain on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil until theyall are done. Discard the garlic, sprinkle the zucchini with salt and freshlyground pepper. Cook pasta, drain, add zucchini and pine nuts and stirwell. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, freshly grated Parmesan and finishwith chopped parsley. Serve.

gnocchiramp

by Susan Reed

by Seema Rao

_Food Comp:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 12:00 Page 2

I T A L Y 37

R E C I P E C O M P E T I T I O N R E S U L T S

For my husband, Italian food is comforting and homey. The culinary prowess of his Nonna lives on a full decade after her death

R E C I P E C O M P E T I T I O N R E S U L T S

When we returned home with ourramps, the sun was just about gone. For myhusband, Italian food is comforting andhomey. The culinary prowess of his Nonnalives on a full decade after her death. Thebest of the Italian kitchen profits from thefreshness and seasonality of the ingredients.Our ramps were in the ground only half an hour before we cooked them.

Homemade gnocchi is one of my husband’s favourite meals as it quick, filling, adaptable. Squash gnocchi withsage, potato gnocchi with tomato sauce,beet gnocchi with brown butter, ricottagnocchi with zucchini blossom... well, yousee the kind of wonderful cook that he is.For the ramps, the goal was something thatdidn’t overpower these spring treats. Wedebated making a potato based gnocchi, as potatoes and ramps are a classic, but wewent with ricotta, in order to achieve softpillowy dumplings. The ramp gnocchi were delicious—light andfluffy. Sautéed ramp bulbs and bacon dressed our ramps. We ateour dinner off one plate, snuggling on the couch. Ramps, springand Italian food equals romance.

I N G R E D I E N T S(for two peop le)

250g whole-milk ricotta cheese (that has been drained)1 egg, beaten" cup grated Parmesan cheese! cup finely chopped ramps# cup flour

PreparationCombine the ricotta, egg, Parmesan and chopped ramps. Add theflour and work gently until a dough is formed. Adjust seasoning. Let rest, roll into long snakes and then cut into bite-sized pieces. Youmay roll it against a fork to get the characteristic indentations. Boil insalted water until they come to the surface—watch not to over cookthem. Dress with bacon and sautéed ramp bulbs, or if vegetarian,with ramp bulbs and pecorino cheese. italy

_Food Comp:*Ital. Job/Rome Cafe L/O 22/1/09 12:01 Page 3

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produced somewhere in Italy. While it does indeed includemany low quality wines, there are also some gems to befound under this classification, with several makers choosing to avoid the bureaucracy of classification and concentrating instead on the simple matter of makingwine. Just think, until 1994, Italy’s Super Tuscan Sassicaiawas classified as a Table Wine!

IGT – Indicazione Geografica Tipica : these are tablewines that are grown in specific geographical growingregions. Originally a step up from simple table wines, thisclassification increasingly covers quality wines whose pro-ducers, for a variety of reasons, have opted out of theDOC and DOCG classifications.

DOC – Denominazione di Origine Controllata :the wines that fall under this title are even more strictly tiedto their region of provenance and are produced in growingzones specified by the government. These wines are subjectto rules regarding grape varieties, vine pruning, aroma,flavour, alcohol content, acidity and period of aging. Manyproducers (and consumers) argue that in some cases the rulesare inadequate, especially regarding minimum yields, thusconsenting the inclusion of low quality mass produced wines.Others argue the bureaucracy involved, especially in particularterrains, dissuades many quality producers from participating.


INTERPRETING WINE LABELS has long been athorn in the side to many non professional winelovers, and this is especially true with Italian wines.

Partly due to the boutique nature of Italian wine production and the sheer quantity of grape varietiesand types of wines, labels can be singularly unhelpful.

What often happens is that, perusing a label, youfind you have never heard of the producer, the grapevariety is unfamiliar and the wine itself it a completenovelty. So what do you do? Check the classification,naturally. Ideally, the classification system shoulddenote the quality of a wine (among other things),helping consumers to choose wisely. However, manyconsider that the present system has failed in its aimof distinguishing superior wines, with some regardingthe system as overly complicated and strict, and othersinsisting it is not strict enough. It is also important toremember that Italy, more than a wine producingcountry, is an amalgam of wine producing regions,run by a series of argumentative and often disorganisedauthorities with conflicting interests. But before discussing the myriad difficulties, here’s a recap ofItaly’s four categories of wine:

Vino da Tavola : this supposedly covers Italy’s basic tablewine category, whose only criteria is that it must be

W H A T ’ S U PD O C ?

W O R D S : G E R M A I N E S T A F F O R D

I M A G E S : A N D R E A F E R R A I O L I a n d E U S T A C H I O C A Z Z O R L A

Do Italy’s presentcategories of wineprovide guaranteesto producers, toconsumers, or serveonly to muddyalready unclearoenological waters?

Eustachio Cazzorla

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I T A L Y 39

…instead of encouraging growers to aim for quality instead ofmere quantity, often the result was that quality producers were

being dragged down with the masses

under the name of the producer and with a declassifiedIGT label. It was a catch-22 situation: instead of encour-aging growers to aim for quality instead of mere quantity,often the result was that quality producers were beingdragged down with the masses. Clearly not ideal.

Roberto Anselmi is widely regarded as one of Italy’sleading white wine producers. In 2000, discouragedby the low quality and general lack of ambition in theSoave region, he took the bold decision of abandoningthe Soave DOC, and labelling his wines as IGT Veneto.Anselmi is a quality oriented producer whose Guyot-trained vines have extremely low yields compared tothe more typical pergola-trained vines in Soave whichproduce frightening amounts of inferior wine, whenceSuave’s less than sparkling standing. Over the lastdecade, he has slowly been helping the battered wine reputation of the Veneto region to recover andimproving the perception of Italian wines worldwide.He has also earned himself multiple Tre Bicchieri classifications for his Anselmi wines, proof that IGTwines can be just as good as bottles with superiorclassifications.

W I N E C L A S S I F I C A T I O N

DOCG - Denominazione di Origine Controllata eGarantita : this is a super DOC category that is meant to cover Italy’s very best wines. In addition to extremely specific growing zones, DOCG wines generally have loweryields and must pass strict chemical and taste evaluationsbefore being bottled. Wines in this category tend to be ofexcellent quality, but don’t necessarily include many of Italy’s very best bottles.

So now that it’s clear what the various classifications are meant to cover, let’s take a look at why it ain’t necessarily so…

O P T I N G O U T

A few years ago, I remember reading the bizarre story ofhow, while most of the country’s vintners were fightingtooth and nail to gain DOC and DOCP status, severalItalian producers were declassifying themselves in orderto be taken more seriously. The specified standards were, intheir opinion, at times so poor that they wanted nothingto do with them, preferring instead to establish theirwine (the same wine that was previously DOC for example),


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E X T R E M E W I N E S

That’s not the only reason folks are opting out.Winemakers Marisa Cuomo and Andrea Ferraioli ofGran Furor Divina Costiera, producers of Fiorduva,another Tre bicchieri wine, have spent the last fourteenyears doing their best to hold high the DOC flag withtheir six DOC wines. But the bureaucracy involved inadhering is fast becoming a problem. ‘This isn’tTuscany,’ says Andrea, ‘with huge expanses of vinescovering hectare upon hectare of land. Here on theAmalfi Coast, we have a very different reality, with all of our terraced vineyards belonging to different families who have split their small vines between thevarious family members, meaning that we have one of the most divided wine territories in Italy. It’s anadministrative nightmare. We are keen to continue asDOC, but can’t help thinking that every case shouldbe judged according to its particular characteristicsand problems so producers aren’t penalised unneces-sarily by the difficulties of their land.’ And in fact,Marisa and Andrea’s Gran Furor DivinaCostiera is included in the list of ViniEstremi, an association that promoteswines produced from vines found inextreme geographical or climactic winemaking conditions. On a finalnote, Marisa comments that she believesthat the DOC system does offer moreguarantees to the consumer, but thatmany of the present problems could beresolved by ensuring the rules were fullyenforced and by carrying out more controls on winemakers.

Meanwhile, of course, many producers chose to optout of the classification systems simply to avoid thestricter rulings, thus having more freedom to produceand mix wines as they please, often in fact, to appealto a more ‘international’ taste. That is, producing winesdesigned to please drinkers rather than producing winesthat are expressions of a particular terroir whose valuelies in their distinctiveness.

E X P E R T O P I N I O N

Eustachio Cazzorla, journalist, sommelier and lectureris the man I normally call when I’m confused aboutwine, and this time he was quick to acknowledge mydoubts and confirm that even professionals have ahard time separating the wheat from the chaff attimes. ‘There are tons of serious wine producers doing their best to follow the stringent rules of theclassification system,’ he agrees, ‘but you also havethose who aim for a DOC or DOCP for other reasons:

We are keen to continue as DOC, but can’t halp thinking that every case shouldbe judged according to its particular characteristics and problems…

to access EEC contributions, for example.’ He agreesthat many producers are distancing themselves fromthe classifications, or have simply chosen never to par-ticipate, and he gives a great example of a simple Vinoda Tavolo that exemplifies the difficulties inherent inbeing guided purely by DOC/DOCG status: Macconedi Angiuli, Primitivo di Acquaviva, produced atAcquaviva inland of Bari – a gorgeously mature, fruitywine with cinnamon and pepper that could easily bea DOC, but is instead, a simple Table Wine. AsEustachio puts it – ‘it’s as warm as an Amarone, hasperfectly velvety tannins with a bitter liquorice edgethat keeps the wine’s ample sugars under control - asincere wine from a sincere producer.’ But as Cazzorlareminds me, the subject of wine classifications is aboutto undergo important transformations: from 1st August2009, new European Commission laws are due to comeinto effect, removing Italy’s existing four tier classificationsystem and replacing it with a two tier system that will

unite all European wine producingcountries and, says the Commission,simplify labels for consumers.

The EEC promises: ‘Simpler labellingrules: in the interests of producers andconsumers, quality will be based onprotected geographical indications/designations of origin. Well-establishedtraditional national quality-labellingschemes will be kept, and simplifiedlabelling rules will allow EU wines tobe labelled for grape variety and vintage.’ Predictably, the Italian wine

world is up in arms, horrified that their DOC andDOCG wines might all be lumped together as DOPafter so much work to differentiate them. Though thewords ‘traditional national quality-labelling schemeswill be kept’, give the more optimistic reason forhope. However, the wheels of bureaucracy are notoriously slow…

Conclusion: don’t presume either price or classification systems will lead you to the best wines.It’s often a better idea to read private tasting votes, and beadvised by folks in the know. Calling Marc Millon!

For more on Eustachio Cazzorla and his musings, visit: www.eusto.it For further information on Costa d’Amalfi wines, visit: www.granfuror.itVini Estremi : www.viniestremi.com EEC Reforms, wine sector:http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/capreform/wine/index_en.htm

I T A L Y 41

R E S P I G H I ’ S F O U N T A I N SW I N E C L A S S I F I C A T I O N

italy

Marisa and AndreaMarisa and Andrea


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L A D O L C E V I T A

Featuring fabulous Italian gourmet treats, designer fashion andstylish home-ware, amazing holidays and luxury properties,the event is now in its fifth year. It’s going to be bigger and

better than ever before, with several new exciting features.Located in the central Piazza, ‘Il Gran Menu’ is a restaurant where

four renowned and award-winning chefs will be working together tocreated the ultimate Italian menu that you will not find anywhereelse in the world. There’s also to be a fabulous Mercato delle Delizie,where Italian producers, exclusively selected for the show, will beselling a range of delicious food including oils, award-winningpesto, cakes and rather unusual vegetables that are yet are not available in the UK...until La Dolce Vita!

Hosted by Sarah Fraser and Richard Turnbull from Channel 4’sThe Great Italian Escape, The Property Match Bar is a lively and fun environment allowing you to receive specialist advice from Italianproperty experts in just a few minutes.

Find your Italy is an interactive attraction where visitors literallypinpoint their favourite spot in Italy on an enormous map and canthen have the chance of winning a wonderful holiday there.

Standard tickets cost £14 if bought in advance, or £16 on thedoor. The hotline is +44 08712 305 589. For more information,please visit www.ladolcevitaevent.co.uk

Celebrate the best Italy has tooffer at the dazzling lifestyle event,

La Dolce Vita - taking place atthe Olympia in London from

March 26 - 29 2009.

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T A B L E T A L K– A L E X I A

TableTALK…with… ALEXIA

You get some GOOD NEWS –what do you CELEBRATE with ?

Warm bread and Nutella …

STRANGEST food you’veEVER EATEN?A meal I ate in an African restaurant in Paris –

some kind of root vegetable steamed inside huge leaves …

Can you SEDUCE someone atthe DINNER TABLE?It’s funny you should ask. When my husband and

I had only started dating, I took over his kitchen andprepared a meal for him one evening when he camehome from a business trip. I made gnocchi with a quattro formaggi sauce. Very simple and very effectiveas he immediately declared I was the woman of his dreams! ...

If I gave you some GINGER whatwould you DO with it?

I’d mix it with soy sauce, Chinese wine, onion, and garlic and use it to marinade some tuna fish. Then a sprinkling of sesame seeds and straight into the pan. Delicious! …

Is there a BOOK or a FILMabout food that you like?I love the film Chocolat, the way the main character’s sweetness

wins everyone in the village over …

A NIGHT with GEORGE CLOONEY or aSLAP UP meal?I’d be too nervous to enjoy my time with George, so I’d prefer a

meal with very close friends so I could relax and let my hair down …

W O R D S : G E R M A I N E S T A F F O R D / I M A G E c o u r t e s y o f S T E F A N O G U I N D A N I

What RELATIONSHIP do you have WITH FOOD?A love-hate relationship. I’m tiny, only

1.53 metres tall, so have to be really carefulabout what I eat. I love good food but try notto eat too much of it…

Is it possible to COMPARE WRITING A SONG

to COOKING?Yes, both are hugely enjoyable and relaxing,

but a song last longer than a dinner …

Do you have any particular MEMORIES related to

FOOD?In the days running up to Christmas, my

mother would spend ages making ravioli andtortellini. Now it wouldn’t be Christmas if my sister and I didn’t join in the kitchen tohelp her ...

Do you have to BE CAREFUL about what YOU EAT for YOUR VOICE?Not really, but I have to make sure I’ve already digested

whatever I’ve eaten, as the stomach and the diaphragm are closeneighbours, and the digestive process can be tiring …

What FOODS would you TAKE WITH YOU on a DESERT ISLAND?Sushi, rice, pizza and coffee …

FAVOURITE CHEF or RESTAURANT?There are two places in Milan that I really like: La Bruschetta and

Paper Moon …

Alexia is a popular singer whose diminutive stature belies an immense vocaltalent and energy that infect fans the world over

culinary IDName:alexia

I T A L Y 43

profession:singer

Favourite Food: [ pizza

Favourite wine:none. I’m teetotal

dislikes: various pork products like

cotichino, pig skin, etc

birthplace:la spezia

Winner of San Remo in 2003, runner upin 2002, and with millions of records soldworldwide, Alexia continues to delighther public with her own particular pop-rock-blues style. Her latest album wasreleased this year and is entitled Alè.

For more information visitwww.alexifans.com

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44 I T A L Y

‘I HAVE DONE as much for medicine as Trajan did for the RomanEmpire when he built the bridges and roads through Italy. It is I,and I alone, who have revealed the true path of medicine. It must

be admitted that Hippocrates already staked out this path... He prepared theway, but I have made it possible.’

These words are attributed to the Greek physician and philosopherGalen whose works dominated the world of medicine for well over athousand years. Born in 129 AD in Pergamon, (an area in modernTurkey), Galen originally studied philosophy and literature, but at theage of 16, on the prompting of his father, his proposed career changedto that of medicine. He studied at various cities within the thenRoman Empire: at Pergamon, at Smyrna and finally at Alexandria, themost advanced medical centre of its time. Galen based his studies onthe best work of the Greek medical schools which had preceded histime, while updating and refining theories on the basis of the findingsof his extensive experiments and observations. At the age of 33, Galenmoved to Rome. There he continued his studies, wrote prolifically, lectured, debated, and gave extensive demonstrations on anatomy toexhibit his medical expertise.

C U T T I N G E D G E

Galen regarded anatomy as the foundation of medical knowledge, andsince the dissection of human bodies was illegal under Roman Law,practised the dissection of pigs, apes, dogs and other animals. This wasto prove both an advantage and a weakness. On the one hand, muchof Galen’s work was to prove groundbreaking: he was the first toobserve that muscles work in contracting pairs and that arteries carriedblood, and not air as had been commonly held till then; he gainedsuperior understanding of the structure of the heart, its valves and itsarteries; and, using experiments, was able to demonstrate paralysisresulting from spinal cord severing. However, Galen was misled onmany accounts, especially concerning the internal organs. Forinstance, he incorrectly assumed that structures found in animals

would necessarily be found in humans, the rete mirabile, a plexus ofblood vessels at the base of the brain in ungulate animals for example,and his descriptions and sketches of the human womb represent, toall effects, that of the dog.

Like many of his contemporaries, Galen was a well prepared surgeon whose tools included forceps, scalpels, catheters, bonehooks and drills, cross-bladed scissors, needles, spatulas, cuppingvessels (for bloodletting), surgical saws, probes and specula. (Manysuch instruments were uncovered in the House of the Surgeon atPompeii, so called thanks to the findings, and even in Roman Britainand elsewhere in the Roman Empire.) From trepanation – drillingholes in the skull to relieve brain pressure – and amputations, to pioneering cataract operations and plastic surgery, Galen and his fellow physicians were astonishingly ahead of their time. During surgery, painkillers such as opium and scopolamine were used, acetum (actually a more effective antiseptic that Joseph Lister’s car-bolic acid) was used to wash and sterilise wounds, and instrumentswere washed in boiling water. Interestingly, while the Romans had noreal idea of germs being related to disease, they practised many techniques that killed germs, techniques that were not fully re-embraced until millennia later.

S T A N D I N G T H E T E S T O F T I M E

Despite many critical errors, Galen was the most authoritative physician of his time, keeping up to 20 scribes to help put down inwriting his every finding. Dedicated to his profession and with firmethical beliefs – he held that physicians should learn to despisemoney as the medical profession was incompatible with acting forprofit, Galen died around 216 AD, leaving behind him works thatwere to go unchallenged for almost 1,400 years, overridden only bythe appearance of Andreas Vesalius and his work on anatomy in 1543, and English doctor William Harvey’s work on blood circu-lation in 1628. IM

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This month, we examine the achievements of Galen, one of Ancient Rome’sgreatest physicians. Try reading the Italian version first then check with the

English version belowW O R D S : G E M C A M E R O N

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guigni localizzato alla base del cervello degli animali ungulati, peresempio, e le sue descrizioni e disegni dell’ utero umano rappre-sentano, a tutti gli effetti, quelli del cane.

Come molti dei suoi contemporanei, Galeno era un bravochirurgo, ed i suoi attrezzi includevano forcipi, scalpelli, cateteri,uncini ossei e trapani, forbici a lame incrociate, aghi, spatole, cop-pette per salassi, seghe, sonde, speculi (molti di questi strumentisono stati rinvenuti nella Casa del Chirurgo a Pompei – così chiamata per i ritrovamenti, nella Gran Bretagna Romana e altrovenell’Impero Romano). Dalla trapanazione – pratica di fori nelcranio per rilevare la pressione cerebrale - alle amputazioni, dalleprime operazioni di cataratta sino alla chirurgia plastica, Galeno ei suoi medici erano sorprendentemente all’avanguardia per il lorotempo. Negli interventi chirurgici venivano usati analgesici comel’oppio e la scopolamina, l’aceto (un antisettico più efficace dell’acido fenico di Joseph Lister) per lavare e sterilizzare le feritee gli strumenti venivano lavati in acqua bollente. Curiosamente,mentre gli antichi Romani non sapevano che i germi erano colle-gati all’infezione, loro usavano molte tecniche per uccidere i germi, tecniche che in seguito non sono state riutilizzate per un millennio.

S U P E R A N D O I L P A S S A G G I O D E L T E M P O

Malgrado i molti errori, Galeno era il più autorevole medico delsuo tempo, tenendo testa fino a venti scribi che lo aiutavano amettere per iscritto ogni sua scoperta. Devoto alla sua professionee dotati di saldi principi etici, pensava che i medici dovevanoimparare a disprezzare il denaro perchè la professione medica èincompatibile con la ricerca del profitto. Galeno morì intorno al216 d.C., lasciando dietro di sé opere che sarebbero rimaste immu-tate per quasi 1,400 anni, superate solo dalla comparsa di AndreasVesalius e del suo lavoro sull’anatomia nel 1543 e del medicoinglese William Harvey con il suo lavoro sulla circolazione sanguigna nel 1628.

‘H o fatto tanto per la medicina, quanto Traiano ha fatto perl’Impero Romano quando ha costruito ponti e strade intutta Italia. Sono io, e solo io, che ho rivelato la vera stra-

da della medicina. Bisogna riconoscere che Ippocrate aveva già indicatola via… Egli ha spianato la strada, ma io l’ho resa praticabile’

Queste parole vengono attribuite al medico e filosofo grecoGaleno i cui lavori hanno dominato il mondo della medicina peroltre mille anni. Nato nel 129 d.C. a Pergamone (una località dell’attuale Turchia), Galeno inizialmente studiò filosofia e letter-atura, ma all’età di 16 anni, su richiesta del padre, la sua carriera siindirizzò verso la medicina. Studiò in varie città dell’allora ImperoRomano: a Pergamone, a Smyrna e poi ad Alessandria, il centromedico più avanzato del suo tempo. Galeno basò i suoi studi sullemigliori opere delle scuole mediche greche che avevano precedutola sua epoca, aggiornando e migliorando le teorie in base alle suenumerose scoperte, esperimenti e osservazioni. A 33 anni, Galenosi recò a Roma. Là continuò gli studi, scrisse molto, insegnò, discusse e diede molte dimostrazioni di anatomia per mostrare lesue conoscenze mediche.

A L L ’ A V A N G U A R D I A

Galeno considerava l’anatomia il fondamento della conoscenzamedica, e poiché la dissezione dei corpi umani era illegale per lalegge romana, praticava quella dei suini, delle api, dei cani e dialtri animali. Ciò costituiva sia un vantaggio che una carenza. Daun lato, molto del lavoro di Galeno voleva provare nuove teorie:fu il primo ad osservare il movimento dei muscoli in contrazionebinaria e che le arterie portano il sangue e non l’aria come si erapensato fino a quel tempo; e attraverso esperimenti, potédimostrare come la paralisi risulti da danni alla colonna verte-brale. Tuttavia, Galeno si è sbagliato su altre cose, specialmentesugli organi interni. Per esempio, pensava erroneamente che lestrutture presenti negli animali si sarebbero necessariamentetrovate anche negli uomini, la ‘rete mirabile’, un plesso di vasi san- italy

I T A L Y 45

Italian translation

R O M E ’ S M E D I C I N E M A N

T R A N S L A T I O N : D O T T . A N D R E A A N T O N I O N I

I L M E D I C O D I R O M A

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46 I T A L Y

years working in marketing, she realised she reallywanted to get back to her design roots. ‘Working at theChanel group gave me the experience of followingproducts from initial concepts through to launch – so I knew about product development,’ she explained.

‘When we launched Piatonna back in 2004, hand-bags weren’t as big as they are now and the handbagsthat were around were repeat styles with poor attentionto detail, and more about making profits for the luxurygoods houses as opposed to making really interestingproducts designed and made with passion.’

She was determined Piatonna would change that! ‘I really like vintage things, purely because much morewent in to products 50 years ago, not just in the rawmaterials used but also the amount of attention todetail. Our bags have vintage details; for example,every bag has a moiré lining with a cordone trim. It isalways a great pleasure to watch a person pick-up abag they like and then open it to discover an impecca-

L I F E S T Y L E

WHEN DESIGNER Pia Tonna decidedto launch her own handbag business,it was to Italy she turned to realise her

dream. With its reputation for exquisite fashionand fine craftsmanship, she knew this was theplace to produce the luxury hand-finished productshe envisaged.

So, in January 2004, she and her partner, Max,left their jobs and life in London and headed forItaly’s fashion capital, Milan, where they set up thecompany’s headquarters in their two bedroomapartment: the studio and showroom in the fronthalf, while they lived in the back half.

They soon adapted to – and adopted – theItalian lifestyle and were not fazed by the com-plexities and bureaucracy of starting a businessin a foreign country, albeit within the EU. Witha background in fashion marketing, Pia waswell qualified and prepared to cope with what-ever problems came their way. Born in Englandto an English mother and Maltese father, (thePiatonna logo is a reworking of the Maltesecross), and brought up in London, Pia (38) hasworked for various select luxury brands includ-ing Paul Smith, where, as Head of InternationalMarketing, she worked on everything fromshop launches to fragrance licenses, and theday-to-day business with Paul. Then she movedon to Chanel, working for Francoise Montenay,its President, (‘a really wonderful and interest-ing woman’), where she travelled to Paris onan almost weekly basis and New York severaltimes a year in her Marketing and Strategycapacity within the Chanel Group.

B A C K T O H E R R O O T S

But something was missing. As a former designstudent at Worthing College of Art, now, after

W O R D S : G I L L Y T U R N E Y

B A G S Carried by actresses, artistsand celebrities from themusic industry, the Piatonnahandbag is collected bywomen the world over… styleO F

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I T A L Y 47

bly finished interior. We receive emails from customers saying how they have never had so manycompliments about their Piatonna handbag andthat when someone takes an interest they open upthe bag and show them the interiors.’

The handbags are all handmade in Arzano nearNaples, and their small collection of shoes, also allhandmade, in Castelfranco di Sotto near Pisa, (a fullshoe collection is due to launch this Autumn/Winter09). The leathers, metal hardware, linings and materialsused are all Italian and most of the leathers are finished in Tuscany. ‘We make in Italy because youcannot fake the handmade feel of Italian products –they make their products with pride and heart.’

F I N I S H I N G T O U C H E S

Piatonna’s concept is to design and produceimpeccably made handbags and leather goods withunusual leathers and unique shapes. Apart from themoiré lining and vintage hand-finish cord trim ineach bag - an expensive process but it really adds to the finished product - each season the colours ofthe moiré and cordone are changed as well as theleather, skin, and trim, so every collection is freshand modern. Plus three new shapes are introducedto keep the collection moving forward; this seasonthey are Bohem (a versatile hand/shoulder/crossbody bag), Dove (an elongated origami style pleatdetail clutch bag, inspired by the wings of a dove,and Pia’s favourite), and Peace (with references tothe natural shapes of a swan).

Both Pia and Max are very much ‘hands’-on’ and work almost non-stop on the business - ‘notbecause we have to, but because we love what wedo!’ she enthuses. Max, (36), a former magazineAdvertising Director, manages the commercial sidewhile Pia concentrates on all of the design and production. ‘We visit the manufacturing base at least

three times per season and we are in daily contactwith our team there. We moved to Italy to work moreclosely with our manufacturers, tanneries and suppli-ers, to establish the relationships, learn the languageand to understand the culture. Our experience therehas fundamentally helped us grow the business.

‘The ‘product’ is central to what we do at Piatonnaand has to be absolutely perfect, so we are extremelyfamiliar with every element of the process, right fromthe leather selection and working with the tanneries,to developing exclusive designs, and deciding on thepackaging of the finished handbag. Every detailis thought through’

Pia took the fashion world by storm with thelaunch of her own label of very special handbags -each maintains a subtle sassiness, found in the unex-pected colour combination or contrast of texture. Theyresearch and develop new leathers and often combinethree or more different leathers or skins on an individ-ual handbag. ‘This alone is quite unusual,’ explainsPia. ‘We pride ourselves on creating genuinely uniquehandbags that have real stand out appeal, combinedwith an attention to detail that is yet to be found inany other handbags. Many elements such as texture,colour, durability and finish are all considered whetherthe leathers we are using are exotic python skins ordeer and nappa calf leathers.’

E V E R Y D A Y C H A L L E N G E S

In those early days, and even now, the Italian way ofworking can be exasperating! Pia and Max have kept thecompany British, ‘but setting up simple things like inter-net phone lines was a bit of a feat and even booking acourier can take an inordinate amount of time. Therenowned Italian bureaucracy is alive and well!’ shelaughs. But they love the lifestyle. ‘Italians are very patrioticand they put so much effort into everything they dowith very high standards. Even if you go to a roadsidecafé, the ham for your panini is carved right there infront of you and the ingredients are all fresh. Packetfood does not exist. It’s just the same with the exactingstandards of handbag and shoe production….’

From just a small beginning they have seen theirbusiness growth rocket with the explosion of thehandbag and accessories market. In their third season,they went from a handful of stockists to over 60 in23 countries. Their bags are now collected by devoteesseason after season.

They have plans to open their first London flagshipstore this year, and back in London, looking for theright premises, their love-affair with Italy has not faded.‘We adore Italy for its people, its culture and its breath-taking scenery,’ says Pia. ‘We will go back there regularlyas that is where we will always manufacture.

www.piatonna.comitaly

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I T A L Y m a g a z i n eW W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K

L A K E C O M O _ M a r c h 0 9

W W W . I T A L Y M A G . C O . U K

L A K E C O M O _ M a r c h 0 9

Lake ComoReview

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L A K E C OMO

WHEN YOU FIRST VISIT Lake Como, one of thefirst things that strikes you is the vicinity of theAlps. You expect the glittering expanses of lake,

the dense greenery that carpets the surrounding hills, and thejumble of villages with their terracotta roofs that characterise the coast. But you don’t expect that dramatic backdrop of snowcapped mountains, and this is part of Lake Como’s charm.

Shaped like a great inverted Y, Lago di Como is animmense body of water that extends for an impressive50 km at the foot of the Alps, with Colico at thenorthernmost point, Bellagio at the point the lakesplits into two at the centre, and the main towns ofComo and Lecco at the southern tips of the twoarms. This is an area that was once covered in glaciers, and it is the Adda River arriving from theSwiss Alps that feeds Lake Como. It is one ofEurope’s largest and deepest lakes and undoubtedlyone of its most beautiful.

Unsurprisingly for such an attractive spot, it has long beenattracting esteemed visitors. Pliny the Elder and Pliny theYounger were both born here, Julius Caesar named it Lario, andStendhal wrote that ‘nothing in the universe can compare to thewonder of these hot summer days passed on this lake’. Flaubertwas moved by Como’s beauty, Shelly declared it voluptuous and

Liszt was convinced there was no place in the world more suitedfor passionate love. And of course, it can have escaped no one’snotice that George Clooney chose this spot to buy a villa.

S O , Y O U ’ D L I K E T O S T AY ?And while we’d all like to own a lakeside villa, not all of usenjoy the likes of Mr. Clooney’s bank account. Thankfully,

however, there are many other options open tolesser mortals. Linda Travella, the director of theItalian Property Specialists Casa Travella,launched Lake Como to the British public 22years ago. She says: ‘It has so much to offer andyou can find an amazing mixture of sophistication,rural charm and stunning scenery. In 1994 I wonfirst prize for promoting tourism between LakeComo and the UK. The Mayor of Como presentedme with a miniature silver ‘Lucia’ (traditionalboat) with my name inscribed on. The secondprize was given to the late Gianni Versace.

‘It is an excellent area to buy a property as it is central to manyother European cities and has a very good choice of apartmentsin wonderful villas that grace the shoreline, or modern lightnewly built apartments that are very good as an investment forrental. If you are feeling really extravagant then you can lookfor a villa close to Mr. Clooney! Como is also perfect for sports

Lake Como is addictive: one trip here and you won’t be able to stay away…

Words by Germaine Stafford : Cover Image by Fotolia©John Hofboer

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‘It has so much tooffer and you canfind an amazing

mixture of sophistication, rural

charm and stunning scenery’

W

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enthusiasts: there is golf, skiing is not far from Monza and football fans can go watch AC Milan (now with Beckham) or Inter Milan. Or then again, how about some shopping in Como town or Milan’s Via Monte Napoleone for some designer boutiques?’

Travelling to Como is easy with Milan’s Malpensa and Linateairports close by, and Bergamo providing another option.Linda Travella is known as an expert on the Italian propertymarket and has appeared in numerous TV programmes for BBCand ITV: Including: A Place in the Sun, filmed on Lake Comoand I Want that House.Web: www.casatravella.com www.casatravellapremier.comTel: 01322 660988

S AY I N G ‘ S I ’ O N C O M OBut it’s not only folks who want to stay in Lake Como whoflock here. Given the lake’s splendid surroundings, the area hasenjoyed an increase in couples deciding to tie the knot here.

Given the lake’s splendid surroundings, the area has enjoyedan increase in couples deciding to

tie the knot here

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Wedding Specialists Blu Key Weddings was created byFrancesca and Jeremy who both have a real passion and love forthe Italian Lake Region. Francesca was born here and startedher career photographing weddings around the Italian Lakesbefore moving to London. There she met Jeremy who hasworked for years in the hospitality industry, and together theydecided to develop a business that would not only allow theirexpertise to grow but also ensure they could create bespokeweddings within some of Italy’s most beautiful landscapes. Partof what distinguishes Blu Key Weddings is their strong desire towork with individual couples to create unique weddings, andthe Italian Lakes has become their specialized area to createclients’ dream Italian wedding.

‘Creating a wedding in the Italian Lake Region is a truly unfor-gettable experience simply because it’s one of the most beauti-ful, enchanting landscapes in Northern Italy,’ says Jeremy. ‘Eachlake is quite unique, each one has its own special atmosphere,and nothing could be more elegant than Lake Como, dottedwith picturesque little villages like Bellagio. And while we havea wealth of experience organizing weddings, we believe verymuch in the personal touch when dealing with our clients, andstrive to make every wedding exclusive and individual.’

Francesca continues: ‘From private villas, castellos and grandluxury ‘Art Deco’ hotels to romantic restaurants tucked away onthe islands, we are sure that you will find the right setting foryour special Italian Lakes wedding day.’

Consultations are available in the UK or abroad and of course,Blu Key Weddings manage every aspect of your wedding dayfrom the legal documentation to the entertainment, ensuringyour big day runs like a dream.Web: www.bluekeyweddings.com

‘Each lake is quite unique, each one has its own special atmosphere,and nothing could be more elegant

than Lake Como…’


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A T O U C H O F L U X U R YAnd if you don’t want to live here (or just plain can’t!), and aren’tfeeling brave enough to tie the knot, treat yourself to a once in alifetime stay at one of the area’s most stylish hotels. Since 1872, theelegant Grand Hotel Serbelloni has attracted the most discerninginternational travellers, including John F Kennedy and WinstonChurchill. As the only Bellagio hotel with a five star deluxe rating, itconsistently appears in lists of the world’s top fifty hotels. The hotel

D E C A D E N T D I N I N GAs you walk through the magnificent halls, the atmosphere of the place reveals the particular style of this management, which is based on good taste and personalised treatment. There are tworestaurants in the hotel overseen by the Chef Ettore Bocchia whohas been awarded a Michelin star for the quality of the foodserved. Terrazza Serbelloni, the main dining restaurant, offersmagnificent cuisine on a terrace that overlooks Lake Como andthe flowering lakeside gardens of the hotel against a backdrop of snow capped mountains, truly an unrivalled setting.

There are 73 rooms, 22 suites and 12 residence apartments withinthe grounds of the hotel. All are appointed and furnished to ahigh standard. As you would expect, there is also a wide range offacilities for sport, recreation and physical well being. A lavishspa, private beach, landing stage, indoor and outdoor swimming

enjoys a glorious location in the stunning town of Bellagio considered by many to be the ‘pearl’ of the lake. It is quiet, awayfrom roads, and has its own private park to the rear and overlooksthe lake to the front. This is a venerable hotel with sumptuouspublic rooms and a breathtaking setting on the lake. Attention to detail, uncompromising quality, discreet personal service and privacy are typical of the quality of service guests enjoy.

For three generations the hotel has been in the ownership of theBucher family, a dynasty in fine European hotellerie. An almostunique example, in this day and age, of a luxury hotel still managed by the family that owns it. ‘We want our guests to feelthe history that surrounds this property and to experience thecharm of a noble home,’ says owner Gianfranco Bucher. ‘I love to consider clients as my own personal guests.’

‘I love to consider clients as my own personal guests’

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pools, squash and tennis courts ,and children’s play area are all on site and there are golf and equestrian facilities nearby.

Open from April to November here is a unique opportunity to enjoy a serene holiday in a corner of paradise.(Plus Milan is easily accessed for daytrips.)www.villaserbelloni.com

But whatever brings you to this neck of the world, make sureyou take time to visit the charming villages that line the coast:Cernobbio with its elegant shops and restaurants; Varenna withits winding alleyways and the beautiful Bellagio with its oldworld charm and presenting some of the most striking viewsItaly has to offer. One thing is certain, however. Lake Como isaddictive: one trip here and you won’t be able to stay away…

But whatever brings you to this neck of the world, make sure you take time to visit the charming villages

that line the coast…

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P R O P E R T Y S E C T I O N

Property & BusinessGuidepresents this month’s…

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Our special section for those looking to buy, rent, work or simply holiday in ItalyOur special section for those looking to buy, rent, work or simply holiday in Italy

Page 63_ property buying tips – the right priceCarla Passino shares advice on how to determine the right price for your property and make a savvy investment

Page 67_ the price of propertyJust what can you get for your money?

Carla Passino goes property shopping with €140,000 in her pocket. Find out what she comes up with


Carla Passino goes property shopping with €430,000 in her pocket. we take a look at her finds

Page 71_ businessIn our regular feature, Emma Bird looks at becoming self-employed, becoming a bilingual secretary and teaching in Florence

Page 72_ Classifieds

Page 74_ And Finally: the burden of bureaucracy…Paul Cleary discusses the ins and outs of fighting Italy’s insidious tangle of red tape

Page 63_ property buying tips – the right priceCarla Passino shares advice on how to determine the right price for your property and make a savvy investment


Carla Passino goes property shopping with €140,000 in her pocket. Find out what she comes up with


Carla Passino goes property shopping with €430,000 in her pocket. we take a look at her finds

Page 71_ businessIn our regular feature, Emma Bird looks at becoming self-employed, becoming a bilingual secretary and teaching in Florence

Page 72_ Classifieds

Page 74_ And Finally: the burden of bureaucracy…Paul Cleary discusses the ins and outs of fighting Italy’s insidious tangle of red tape

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P R O P E R T Y

I T A L Y 63

TOP PROPERTY buying tips…

the RIght PRICE

Carla Passino quizzes some experienced estate agents on how to determine the right price for property and ensure you’re

making a savvy investmentW O R D S : C A R L A P A S S I N O

‘IN THE NICHE MARKET in which we operate—that for traditional farmhouses and townhouses, restored or forrestoration, in attractive rural locations or in historic villages

and towns—the subjective nature of the buyer’s perception ofvalue is invariably a significant factor in determining price,’ statesRoger Coombes of Cluttons Italy.

This market is small when compared to the mainstream Italianone, making it hard to extrapolate statistics on prices. ‘The detailedinformation available from the Agenzia del Territorio (the government body responsible for providing statistics on all typesof property transactions) has only a tenuous link with the type ofproperty most foreign buyers are looking for,’ Coombes explains.‘Hence the reference to the subjective element and the need tolook at ‘our’ kind of properties on a case by case basis.’

That said, he adds, to assess the reasonableness of a property’sasking price, it is worth conducting a research on the internet ‘tofind a group of other properties on sale in the same area whichare broadly comparable in terms of size, characterand location. Many sites include the surface area insquare metres. This enables a basic comparison ofprices per square metre to be made.’

Size MattersCluttons ran a similar survey in the first half of2008 on a small but representative sample of wellrestored farmhouses with pools and an average of 6 bedrooms in Umbria and Tuscany, south ofFlorence. It determined an average asking price ofabout €3,900 per square metre. ‘On a similar sample of smaller farmhouses (3 to 4 bedrooms)on sales taking place in 2007 and 2008, the averagefigure is lower at about €2,800 per square metre,’ says Coombes.

Magic Marche’s Jane Smith also recommends buyers becomefamiliar with the Italian system of quoting prices per squaremetre, so it is easier to get some benchmarks. ‘Estate agents inItaly all quote the square metre of the house. Prices significantlybelow average price per square metre figures will represent fantastic value.’

For example, in the Marche, where Smith operates, ‘for anunrestored farmhouse with a main house of up to 250 square

metres, you can expect to pay a maximum of €900 per squaremetre.’ For a main house of 250-400 square metres, expect to paya maximum of €450 per square metre—this is because ‘the largerthe house, the bigger the restoration cost, which deters many buyers,’ Smith says. So, she adds, ‘for a 200 square metre unrestoredhouse, which would make 4 bedrooms, a price circa 180,000euros should be the maximum. Beat this and you are doing well.’

Location, Location, Location…Linda Travella of Casa Travella, advises buyers to be location-wise when comparing property prices. ‘If you see a house with an amazing view in a great location, and the same house withouta view in the same village but not such a good location, therewill be a price differential for sure.’

In Le Marche, for example, proximity to the sea and a goodlocation with the right type of land can make a huge difference,according to Smith. ‘If a house is within 15 minutes of the coast

in a favoured location, this will increase theprice per square metre by up to 20%. For houses within walking distance of the sea,double the price. A good location, and landcontaining vines and olive trees can add up to 20 %.’

Be aware, though, that coastal locations willcarry a considerable premium. ‘In Le Marche,expect to pay a maximum of €2,700 per squaremetre for anything within five minutes of thecoast and/or with a sea view: here you are competing with the Italian holiday home market.’To get the best possible bargain, Smith adds,‘negotiate very hard and look out for houses

flagged with ‘Price Reduced.’ This usually means the owners areparticularly keen to sell and will negotiate further. Of interest,Magic Marche has recently seen price reductions of up to 30% for houses requiring a quick sale.’

And if you really want to make sure you are not overpaying,‘you can also opt to have a valuation carried out by a surveyor,’says Travella. ‘You would have to have this done before you putin an offer and be prepared to write off this cost if you decide not to go ahead.’

.italy

‘… negotiate veryhard and look out forhouses flagged with

’Price Reduced’. This usually means

the owners are particularly keen

to sell

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Issue 53 August 2007San Gimignano, CapriProperty for Sale in... Alta Valle del Potenza e Dell’Esino

Issue 54 - LimitedSeptember 2007Bologna, TraniProperty for Sale in... La Sila

Issue 55 October 2007Montepulciano,PompeiiProperty for Sale in... Lunigiana

Issue 52 July 2007Urbino, Lake GardaProperty for Sale in... Calabria

Issue 51June 2007Verona, LiguriaProperty for Sale in... Alghero

Issue 50May 2007Lake Maggiore, Arbereshe - CalabriaProperty for Sale in... Lake Orta area

Issue 49April 2007Piero Trail, OffidaProperty for Sale in... Southern Le Marche

Issue 59 - Limited February 2008Le MarcheCinque TerreSpecial Review of Tuscany

Issue 60 - LimitedMarch 08Cividale del FriuliPratoSpecial Review of Abruzzo

Issue 61 April 08Ciociaria, San RemoSpecial Review of Campania and Basilicata

Issue 62 May 08Veneto, ArezzoSpecial Review of Puglia

Issue 63 June 08Costa Rei, River PoSpecial Review of Le Marche

Issue 64 July 08Siena PalioSpecial Review of Piedmont

Issue 65 August 08Elba, ComoSpecial Review of Calabria

Issue 66 September 08Volterra, Eolian islandsSpecial Review of Liguria

Issue 67 October 08Northern Le Marche,Chianti. Special Review of Sardinia

Issue 68 November 08Cefalù, Lunigiana, Tuscany Special Review of Sicily

Issue 69 December 08Imperia, Viterboand Florence artisans Special Review of Abruzzo

Issue 70 January 09Palermo, Bosaand Bologna Special Language Review

Issue 71 February 09Amalfi CoastGrosseto/Etruscan CitiesCookery School Review

Issue 47 February 2007San Marion, Noto -SicilyProperty for Sale in... Venice

Issue 46 - LimitedJanuary 2007Abruzzo, BresciaProperty for Sale in... Lake Como

Issue 44 - LimitedNovember 2006Montagnola, Rome and TuscanyProperty for Sale in... La Valle Reatine

Issue 43 - LimitedOctober 2006Albe and GubbioProperty for Sale in... Tuscany

Issue 34 - LimitedJanuary 2006Maremma, ComacchioAdvice on Italian LegalproblemsProperty for Salein...Abruzzo

Issue 33 - LimitedDecember 2005South Tyrol, SiracusaStarting a businessand teaching EnglishProperty for Salein...Valtaro & Valceno

Issue 58 - LimitedJanuary 2008Spoleto, Sibillini.Special languagesection

Issue 41 - LimitedAugust 2006Cities of Umbria,Raddusa - SicilyProperty for Salein...Lake Trasimeno

Issue 40July 2006Massa MarittimaLandscapes ofLeonardoProperty for Salein...Le Murge

Issue 39 - LimitedJune 2006La Murgia - Puglia,StromboliProperty for Salein...Lombardy Lakes area

Issue 38May 2006Piedmontese Alps,SorrentoProperty for Salein...Recanati (LeMarche)

Issue 37April 2006Molise, Pietrelcina in CampaniaProperty for Salein...Southern Piedmont

To order simply write to us indicating which issues you would like, include a cheque or PO made payable to Poundbury Publishing Ltdfor the correct amount, and send it to Italy, Middle Farm, Middle Farm Way, Poundbury, Dorchester DT1 3RS or alternatively, telephone

our Hotline on 01305 266360 with your credit card details or order online on www.italymag.co.ukDIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION FOR ONLY £30

Other issues not mentioned have already sold out!

B A C K I S S U E SB A C K I S S U E SPrices (inc P&P) £4.25 each or £9.99 for 3 (UK) £4.50 each or £10.99 for 3 (Europe and Ireland)

£5 each or £11.99 for 3 (Rest of World)

66 I T A L Y

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570,000

5100,000

5135,000

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THE PRICE of PRoperty

5140,000W O R D S : C A R L A P A S S I N O

What you can buy with… up to…

After the customary Christmas hibernation, the second home market is slowly waking up. The news from international agents is that buyers are still keen on Italy, but have become choosier and more cautious. They also look for competitive prices; UK buyers in particular need margins that will help compensate thedecrease in value of the sterling against the euro, while American buyers expect to find the same kind ofreductions they have seen in their home market.

While a massive decline in prices is unlikely - particularly for homes belonging to Italian vendors, who traditionally prefer to take their property off the market rather than take a huge hit on price - sellers, particularly non-Italian ones, are showing a greater degree of flexibility. Even though they may nominallymaintain their asking prices, they’ll often consider any realistic offer. And because the quality and quantity of properties available for sale is still good, prospective purchasers have an opportunity to pick up some interesting buys.

We have selected three: a flat to renovate, a renovated flat and a new development, all with a really affordable price. Just one word of warning, though: a good dose of realism is crucial for purchasers too. While this is a buyer’s market and owners are increasingly flexible, they are unlikely to entertain anything that is dramatically lower than the asking price.

Renovated Flat in Roccantica, Lazio… 370,000

ROCCANTICA is true to its name, which means ancient hold in Italian. It is a beautiful medieval village of crenellated towers and golden churches, perched high on the verdant hills of Sabina.

Here, in the borgo’s medieval heart, Immobiliare Polidori are selling a fully renovated flat on one level.A few steps lead to the entrance door, which opens onto very Italian interiors that blend traditionaltouches—cotto floors, a fireplace—with contemporary ones. The flat has one bedroom, a living room, a breakfast kitchen, a bathroom and a balcony, plus its own cellar. The windows frame panoramic views over the Sabina countryside. The asking price is €70,000.For more details call (+39) 0765 576477 or visit www.immobiliarepolidori.it

Flat to renovate in Poggio Catino, Lazio… 3100,000

ALSO FOR SALE through Polidori Immobiliare is a large flat, this time in Poggio Catino, another prettySabina town. The property, which is in need of renovation, is situated in the historic town centre. It has

a beautiful living room with fireplace and vaulted ceiling, three bedrooms, a kitchen, another small kitchenarea, two bathrooms and a balcony. It would be easily split into two flats, as it has two entrance doors. The asking price is €100,000.

For more details call (+39) 0765 576477 or visit www.immobiliarepolidori.it

Apartments in Tocco da Casauria, Abruzzo… from 3135,000

THE HOME of the powerful Centerba liqueur, Tocco da Casauria is a pretty castle town at the foot of the mount Morrone, in Abruzzo. In the town centre, a historic building is being renovated and

converted into three flats. Two of the units, which are sold fully furnished, will have private gardens,while the third will take up the two top floors of the building. All will afford far-reaching views over the Abruzzo countryside. The conversion will use contemporary techniques to bring the building’s rusticfeel back to life, with touches such as cotto floors, exposed brickwork, vaulted ceilings and woodenbeams. Prices start from €135,000 and go up to €220,000. For more details contact Chesterton International on 020 3040 8210 or visit international.chesterton.co.uk

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5425,000

5430,000

5420,000

P R O P E R T Y

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THE PRICE of PRoperty

5430,000

W O R D S : C A R L A P A S S I N O

What you can buy with… up to…

How far do €430,000 go in these days of wobbly economy? You could treat yourself to just over a month in the cupola suite of Rome’s Westin Excelsior, one of the world’s most expensive hotel rooms; splash out ontwo Ferrari F430s; or you could purchase a good-sized home by the beach or deep in the Italian countryside.To put it in context, here are three properties in South, Central and Northern Italy that command that price (or slightly less).

Borgo ferri, Santa Caterina Ionio, Calabria… 3425,000

AN ANCIENT family estate, neat rows of vineyards and the turquoise crystal of the Ionian Sea. All this is Borgo Ferri, a gated development in the village of Santa Caterina Ionio, in Calabria.

The seat of the Ferri family, the Borgo has been split by owner Barbara Ferri and her husband AlfredLenarciak to create a private golf community. Its 250 acres will be home to 150 properties set among the estate’s gardens, olive trees and vineyards. Owners will have access to a nine-hole golf course (withnine more holes planned for the future), swimming pool, tennis and beach club: the Borgo is located on the shore of the Ionian Sea. Borgo Ferri offers several options, but three-bedroom villas with gardens cost €425,000. There is a possibility of having a private pool built on the grounds at an additional cost. Borgo Ferri is about 50 km from Lamezia Terme international airport. Properties are for sale through Savills.Tel: (+44) (0) 20 7016 3740 Web: www.savills.co.uk

Mulino Felica, Comano, Tuscany… 3430,000

AN ANCIENT MILL that has been fully restored, Mulino Felice looks as if it’s come straight out of a postcard. Casement windows framed by cornflower blue shutters open on a whitewashed façade

under a sloping roof. Inside, exposed beams and a brick fireplace give this three-bedroom home a rusticcharm. But the outdoors are what make is special. Behind this ancient mill, which has been fully restored, tall trees cover a hill, looming large over Il Mulino’s gardens, olive grove, and vineyard. A courtyard with vine pergola is the perfect place to soak up the views of the vineyard as you dine alfresco while a terrace overlooks the stream that crosses the mill’s 2,300 square metres of land. Mulino Felice, which is one hourand 15 minutes’ drive from Pisa airport, and just over one and a half hour’s drive from Genoa, is on the market at €430,000 with L’Architrave Immobiliare. Tel: (+ 39) 0187 475543 Web: www.larchitrave.net

Period Apartment in Acqui Terme, Piedmont… 3420,000

ACREAM-WHITE 19th-century villa perches high on a hill near Acqui Terme, overlooking the mosaic of greens that is the Piedmontese countryside. Here, Apta Domus are selling a huge apartment -

‘the size of a sizeable farmhouse,’ says a spokeswoman - with private access. The beautifully restored interiors exude country elegance, with details such as exposed bricks, arched doorways and fireplaces. The apartment, which is only one hour away from Genoa airport and just over an hour and a half from Turin and Milan, is laid out maisonette-style, with living room and kitchen area downstairs, and two bedrooms(both with Jacuzzi ensuite and one with a private living room) upstairs. ‘The apartment is situated in a beautifully restored and prestigious period villa built during the 1800s, at the time when it was the fashionfor people to visit the thermal springs in places like Acqui Terme, which is nearby,’ says the Apta Domusspokeswoman. ‘These areas are once more becoming very fashionable. And this apartment, unlike many others, has its own private garden.’ It is on the market for €420,000. For more information, contact Apta Domus on (+44) (01)1628 474 513 or visit www.aptadomus.com.

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Look out for the next issue of Dream ItalianWeddings & Honeymoons magazine

ON SALE from 12TH FEBRUARY at all leading newsagentsand by subscription on +44 (0) 1305 266360

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’

B U S I N E S S

I T A L Y 71

In this month’s business section: becoming self-employed, becoming a bilingual secreatry and teaching in Florence

How to…– B E C O M E

S E L F - E M P L O Y E DI N I T A L Y –

1. Don’t ever underestimate the amount of

red tape and the time it takes to get

everything done. Work backwards from

when you plan to open and add on several

months for good measure. If you need to

have your qualifications officially translated

and recognised, be prepared to wait for

up to a year. It’s common practice to get

your authorisation on the very last possible

day. Be insistent and regularly ring up

the authorities to check how your case

is progressing.

2. Ask around and find yourself a good com-

mercialista. The right one will open your

Partita Iva for you and also keep you

informed of all your tax and social security

obligations. But beware, there are a lot of

commercialisti who tend to ignore their

small clients and just take their money.

3. If you intend to work with the public and

need premises, one of the first things you

need to do is the DIA – the dichiarazione

inizio attività. In English, that’s the official

notification that you’re starting a business.

The local comune will tell you which forms

you need to download from the internet

and fill in. Fill them in, take them back to

the council and wait 20 days. After which

you can officially open your doors.

4. Once you’ve opened, you’ll also need to

go to the Camera di Commercio (chamber

of commerce) offices to register. The forms

you need depend on what type of business

you’re setting up. It’s best to get there

as early in the morning as possible to

avoid the queues.

Mario Berri continues in his role as career doctor. Mario is a change managementconsultant in Italy. He is also a former senior manager with experience working in internationalteams in the UK, Italy, Switzerland and Germany. He is the co-author of Starting a Business inItaly: how to set up and run a successful business in the Bel Paese and is a consultant withHow To Italy (www.howtoitaly.typepad.com) and ABK International (www.abkinternational.biz)

QHello Mario. Given that things in England look like they are going to go from bad to worse in this credit crunch, I’m seriously thinking about moving to Italy. I’m abilingual (English and Italian) secretary in London and would like to do the same

job in an Italian city, possibly Rome or Florence. Could you tell me how to go about this and what my salary expectations could be. Grazie mille.Sarah Butcher (email)

Hi Sarah. Your prospects are excellent. You need to decide whether you want to work for a smallercompany in a less structured role, or for a large organisation. In the case of the former, look on websites like www.wantedinrome.com In tourist areas, you will also find work as a secretary inestate agencies dealing with foreign clientele. If working for large organisations is more your thing,target the major job sites such as www.infojobs.it and recruitment agencies including www.quanta.comand www.adactalavoro.it As for your salary, you are looking at between EUR 1,100 and EUR 1,800net per month.

GUIDE TO B E C O M I N G S E L F - E M P L O Y E D …

Admittedly, going it alone is scary, but in Italy,

you’ll be in good company. Freelancers and

small businesses make up the backbone of

the Italian economy. Here’s our guide:

IN BUSINESS…

CAREER DoCTOR:

If you have a question for our Career Doctor, please email us at [email protected] stating your nationality and whether or not you have an EU passport or right to work in Italy.

We regret that Mario Berri is unable to reply to you personally

Julia King, 24, moved to Florence two years ago straight after university. She teaches English to adults and teenagers.

W O R D S : E M M A B I R D

If you are interested in appearing in the Real Life section, please email: [email protected]

REAL LIFE:

‘The fact that I’m here and not teaching hormonal teenagersin a British comprehensive is all down to a guy I met in a baron a night out in London. When I was in my final year of university, I wasn’t sure what I wantedto do with my life and, for a long time, I was toying with the idea of doing a PGCE, as a teachingqualification always gives you something to fall back on. I was on the verge of applying but meetingDavid changed my mind. He was so full of energy and clearly loved the life he was leading inBarcelona that it made me see that there was more to teaching than ramming Chaucer or DHLawrence down the necks of sullen 15-year-olds.

From then on, everything happened at breakneck speed. I applied and got a place on a month-longTEFL course to teach English to foreigners. Once it had finished, I started looking for jobs. Theworld was my oyster because I didn’t have any preconceptions of where I wanted to go. I wasthinking about heading somewhere in South America but ended up in Italy because it was the firstjob I was offered and, of course, it meant I was nearer my friends and family.

Looking back, I feel really sorry for my first students as I didn’t have much idea how to teach. Ijust tried to be friendly and helpful and muddle through as best as I could. These days, it’s a totallydifferent story. I love teaching and I can’t believe I’d ever have considered anything else. Yes, thepay is bad and I certainly couldn’t afford to live on these wages for ever, but seeing the joy on astudent’s face when they get a sentence construction right or finally manage to pronounce an Englishword they’d been struggling with is worth it.

When I first moved here, I would look in the mirror and see a shy, 22-year-old English girl notquite sure where she fitted into the world. Now that Julia is gone and I see Giulia, a confident 24-year-old who is slowly adapting to the Florentine way of life. I plan to stay for a while yet.’

( )http://lavoro.corriere.it– job opportunities via national

newspaper Il Corriere della Sera

www.sinterim.it– a temping agency in Italy

useful sites

a bilin-

il:

D ques-an EUto reply

_BusinessMAR:*Business JULY L_O P 22/1/09 12:08 Page 3

TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY

ALL REGIONS TUSCANY

LE MARCHE

ALL REGIONS

Visitwww.italymag.co.uk

for news, holidays, property & much more

C L A S S I F I E D S

72 I T A L Y

Hol

iday

s !

Hol

iday

s !

Hol

iday

s !

Hol

iday

s

TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY ! TUSCANY

ALL REGIONS ! ALL REGIONS ! ALL REGIONS ! ALL REGIONS ! ALL REGIONS ! ALL REGIONS

p72:p072 23/1/09 17:24 Page 1

SERVICES ITALIAN TUITION

VENETO TUSCANYLOMBARDY REMOVALS

I T A L Y 73

Serv

ices

!Se

rvic

es !

Prope

rty

!Pr

ope

rtyC L A S S I F I E D S

ITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITIONITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITION

To advertise your product or servicein the Italy Marketplace contact:

Angelo SangiorgioTel: 0039 0932 950222 [email protected]

Levinia ModicaTel: 0039 0932 950222 [email protected]

To advertise your product or servicein the Italy Marketplace contact:

Tonia ModicoTel: 0039 0932 457753 [email protected]

Luisa PacificoTel: 0039 0932 457753 [email protected]

PUGLIA ! PUGLIA ! PUGLIA ! PUGLIA

SERVICES ! SERVICES ! SERVICES ! SERVICES ! SERVICESITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITION ! ITALIAN TUITION

Visitwww.italymag.co.uk

for news, holidays, property & much more

p73:p073 23/1/09 17:33 Page 1

74 I T A L Y

A N D F I N A L L Y . . .

IHAVE LIVED in Italy now for nearly a decade, and I knowthat the United Kingdom has changed hugely in that time.Where once the place seemed to run relatively smoothly,

it now appears festooned by that godfather of hindrances:bureaucracy. At every level, new measures and systems havebeen devised, thought about for five minutes, and then implemented on the general public, with predictable resultsand an inevitable increase in frustration and decrease inpatience. Does anybody actually understand the new directives? Actually, yes, but probably only half a dozen peoplein the country could really tell you what on earth was goingon! But whereas Blighty is blighted by shiny, freshly made redtape, poor old Italy suffers a comedy of errors going back fordecades. I feel it safe to say that my straniero (foreigner’s) pointof view is widely held by the entire population of Italy, doggedas they are and always have been by a constant change of lawswith every new government coming to power. As we all know,Italy has had more than its fair share of governments sinceWorld War II, so the resultant quagmire of rules and regulationsis simply stifling.

T H E A R T O F A M B I G U I T Y

The Italian love of form-filling and paperwork is so all pervasive,that you sometimes wonder whether any of the millions ofarchives up and down the country have ever been committedto digital memory. To date I have not heard of any low-gradecivil servants in Italy losing their jobs and facing treasoncharges for leaving a CD of military secrets on the train seat,for example. Involved, as I am, in real estate here in Italy, Ihave had the dubious pleasure of consistent contact withbureaucracy at all levels. I have learned over the years to avoidgiving definitive answers to clients, where possible, to questionsthat will involve permissions being granted or how long something will take, for example. I have registered several com-promessi (preliminary agreements of sale) this year, and eachtime I go to the relevant office I think I have everything I needto complete a smooth, fretless transaction. Not once have Imanaged it! Either I have the wrong stamps to put on it, or therules changed since the last one I did, so it now costs Y and Ionly paid X, or something similarly banal. This constant evolution of rules and regulations makes it difficult even for

Paul Cleary, pictured left with wife Charlie and daughters Sofia Rose and Cecily Grace, attempts to untangle the knots caused by Italy’s red tape

the professionals to advise their clients. In arecent final contract of sale, a solicitor was on theverge of not signing on behalf of his client, due to amissing document of relatively minor consequence.Upon some research, the Notary conducting the saleinformed him that the law requiring said documenthad been repealed only weeks beforehand. Jobdone, he signed. Prayers were offered up.

C A R T R O U B L E

A few years back Charlie and I went to buy a secondcar. The rules about what paperwork one needs in order to buy a car in Italy have never really been properly understood.When we first arrived here, you needed to be an official residentto qualify for car ownership. This resulted in those non-Italianswho did not have residency, buying cars in the name of theirneighbour, gardener or long-lost cousin. We had bought a carin 2004 without having official residency and all was aboveboard, insured, taxed and everything. When we bought thesecond one, we left the garage, having handed over the cash,and headed for the ACI (Automobile Club d’Italia) office toregister our names as new owners. Except they would not letus. Only a month prior, the laws had changed, so now weneeded a document that neither of us had at that time.Exasperated and not a little worried, we headed back to thegarage to break the good news. Fortunately they were kind tous and left the car registered to the garage, until we could sortthe papers out. I recently discovered another little bureaucraticsnippet involving cars, which left a friend of ours with anunexpected bill. It seems that if you lose one of your licenseplates, (in a flooded ford across a road, in this particularinstance) you cannot simply request a replacement. Oh no. The car needs to be re-registered with new plates, which cancost around €400. Probably more than the car was worth…When it comes to dealing with electricity and telecoms companies, I can only say best of luck. You will require notonly patience, but also a good friend on hand who can calmyour homicidal tendencies and mop your sweating brow witha cool flannel. Needless to say I have forced myself to learnpatience and the art of deep breathing. Maybe I should thinkabout taking up yoga. italy

the burden of…bureaucracy

p74 And FinallyMAR:*And Finally JULY L/O_P 23/1/09 09:37 Page 2

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p76 OBC FP? :ADS 23/1/09 15:37 Page 1

italy magazine - issue 72 - march 2009

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